Homemade winding machine for thick thread. Simple winding machine. Winding devices

For experienced electricians and radio amateurs, when working with their own hands, they will definitely need a machine for winding transformers. Household appliances have in their design a lot of all kinds of coils and transformers (including toroidal ones), which over time become unusable and need to be repaired.

In addition, many craftsmen would not refuse to have a homemade manual or electric tool in their arsenal, as it can significantly reduce time and improve the quality of winding.

1 The device of a homemade winding machine

Used in industrial settings special devices For mass production various types electric coils and transformers. The production of similar products allows you to invest financial resources in high-speed, automatic equipment to increase the number of products produced.

In DIY work when repairing, restoring, creating new coils or transformers, there is no need to fully automate the rewinding process, but the method of manually laying each turn of wire does not suit all craftsmen. Therefore, the practice of creating your own models arose.

The most simple option is manual winding machine, a DIY design that features an adjustable stacker and thread counter. When creating it, you should pay attention to only a few conditional requirements:

simplicity of design;
use of improvised materials;
Possibility of winding coils different sizes and configurations.

An example of such a machine made by hand is this design, which works on the principle of a well gate:

base with two vertical posts made of wood or plywood;
a horizontal axis mounted on stands made of thick wire, one end of which is curved in the shape of a handle for rotation;
two tubes mounted on the axle, on one of which there is a wooden block, which is fixed with a metal pin and has a wedge for reliable fixation on the rotating axle;
a revolution counter (bicycle odometer), which is connected to the free end of the axle through a thick rubber tube or coil spring suitable section.

The principle of operation of such a device is based on placing the transformer frame on the axis of the device, and rotating the gate with your own hands with manual control of the density of the wire laying and visual control by counting the turns.

1.1 Winding of toroidal transformers

The widespread use of toroidal transformers in household appliances and devices providing low-voltage lighting creates the need for a machine, or rather, a device that will help wind wire on a frame of a round closed shape.

In industrial settings, special ring machines are used for high-quality winding of toroidal transformers. At home, you have to wind it by hand for a long time and without a guarantee of high-quality, even laying of the wire.

A device in the form of a shuttle, which works on the principle of a sewing needle, somewhat facilitates the work of winding toroidal transformers, but not to an sufficient extent.

To create a more productive device for winding toroidal transformers, you will need a bicycle wheel rim. It is secured to the wall with a pin and has a rubber ring to secure the wire.

Since the rim is solid, in order to put the frames of toroidal transformers on it, it will need to be cut and then fastened with collapsible plates.

Winding toroidal coils using this device occurs as follows:

a reel prepared for winding is put on the disconnected rim;
the rim is fastened (connected) with plates so that it is a solid circle;
wrap it around him required amount wires;
connect the end of the wire to a coil freely moving along the rim;
They begin to move the coil along the rim in complete circles, due to which the wire itself is laid on the transformer frame.

When performing such almost manual winding, It is necessary to monitor the wire tension and the density of the turns.

The bicycle wheel rim is only suitable for large reels. The same winding principle can be applied for small toroidal transformers using any flat ring of suitable dimensions.

2 Electric winding machine

A manual winding machine is not always able to significantly facilitate the work of rewinding transformers. In order to make a more advanced device, you should refer to the following information, which allows you to create a more efficient design using dot matrix printer parts.

Using the printer frame and many of its components and parts, you can get a device with the following features:

the winding machine is small in size;
its spindle starts and stops smoothly;
the presence of a counter will allow you to avoid errors when counting turns;
the wire is laid automatically;
possibility of sectional winding without reconfiguring the device;
reliable fastening of frames that do not have a central hole.

Units and parts of the winding machine:

wire spool (feed reel);
spindle rotation braking mechanism;
reel centering stepper motor;
guides (ball furniture set);
shutter of optical sensors on the reel centering mechanism;
handle for redirecting the positioner to another section (for sectional winding);
buttons for manually changing the laying direction;
LEDs to control the direction of laying;
positioner stepper motor;
curtains for optical sensors monitoring the winding boundary;
positioner adjusting screw;
winding reel;
winding motor;
counter of the number of turns;
device settings buttons;
optical timing sensor;
rotation speed regulator.

2.1 Purpose and principle of operation of individual parts and assemblies

Feeding unit - used to install a reel of wire in it, ensuring the required amount of tension when feeding. Consists of a device for fastening bobbins and a system for braking shaft rotation.

Braking is necessary to ensure high-quality winding due to the tension of the supplied wire.

Centering of the feed reel is necessary due to the small dimensions of the machine and performed using a centering mechanism, which works like this:

the wire unwinded from the reel passes through a curtain, which is shaped like a fork;
A stepper motor, through a gearbox with a toothed belt, automatically moves the reel along roller guides.

Positioner is a device with which the boundaries of wire laying are set. The stepper motor moves the stacker until the curtain blocks one of the control sensors. As soon as this happens, the direction of laying changes.

Layer - allows for reconfiguration when winding wire various diameters- from 0.2 to 0.4 mm.

Receiving unit - the rotation of the reel on which the wire is wound is provided by a high-speed electric motor with a gearbox. The gearbox consists of 3 gears with a total division of 18, which allows you to obtain sufficient torque at low speeds. The rotation speed of the electric motor itself is adjusted by changing the voltage supplied to it.

The fastening design allows you to fasten frames without having through hole, due to two flat plates that compress them on both sides.

This construction is not dogmatic. All elements, parts, individual units are selected in accordance with the specific tasks and capabilities of the amateur to work with his own hands. The main idea is that with sufficient desire and some basic knowledge, every master is quite capable of independently assembling a winding machine for any type of transformers.

2.2 Homemade winding machine for transformers (video)

Almost two years have passed since I moved into our Data City. It's time to report on the work done.
The first thing I want to talk about is the simplest transmotor. I decided to defeat the myth about the difficulties in winding transformers, both sound and power. The eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing!

It all started with such a simple machine for 7 rubles 20 kopecks,
acquired back in the 80s of the last century.

Given time and patience, this device worked quite well, the only drawback is that both hands are busy. One has to turn the handle, the other has to lay the wire. And I decided to improve this process a little.

Over the years, all sorts of mechanisms, electric motors and gearboxes have accumulated in the bins. It's time to put them to good use. The solution was this: to make a tabletop winding machine with an electric drive, a mechanical thread counter and manual drive wire handler.

For body Sheet getinax with a thickness of 6 mm was chosen, a good durable material. I cut out two identical ones side walls, immediately marked the holes for the shafts. I attached the side walls to the base of the transomotalka (also made of getinax) through aluminum corners. The holes for the rotating shafts were widened to allow the bearings to be pressed in.

On the side wall opposite to the drive there is a hole for the bearing and a vertical slot on top for easy removal of the drive shaft. WITH inside a support for the bearing is made, and with outside a folding bracket to fix the bearing in its seat. By lifting the bracket, you can pull out the shaft along with the left bearing. The right one remains in the right wall.

Mechanical counter was extracted from the speedometer of some VAZ. At first, the meter was driven through a rubber belt.

But, due to a slight discrepancy in the diameters of the pulleys and slipping of the pin, the meter readings did not correspond to the number of wound turns. This drive had to be abandoned and converted to a gear drive.

Fortunately, two identical gears were found. One of which was installed on the working shaft, and the other on the counter drive shaft. Now there are no discrepancies with the number of wound turns and the counter readings.

Drive unit made from a low-voltage (12V) motor complete with a reduction gearbox. Motor power supply from TN transformer.

To adjust the speed winding uses a power switch: 6V or 12V. A winding-neutral-reverse switch and a spring button for supplying voltage to the drive are also mounted.

Mechanical stacker also simple and easy to use. The stacker carriage is driven by the rotation of the handle of an 8 mm diameter shaft made of a stud threaded along its entire length. The carriage moves along a guide taken from inkjet printer, also 8 mm in diameter. Everything is clearly visible in the photo.

It’s easy to get used to the diameter of the wire and with your left hand you need to rotate the stacker shaft with a certain frequency so that the wire lies turn to turn.

This simple device already has 3 output and 3 power transformers wound for push-pull tube amplifiers for guitar combos such as Fender 5e3 to 6V6 and JCM800 to EL34. But more on that next time.

In amateur radio practice, there is often a need to wind/rewind various windings of transformers, chokes, relays, etc.
When developing this machine, the following tasks were set:

1. Small dimensions.
2. Smooth spindle start.
3. Counter up to 10,000 turns (9999).
4. Winding with automatic wire laying. Laying pitch (wire diameter) 0.02 - 0.4mm.
5. Possibility of winding sectional windings without reconfiguration.
6. Possibility of fastening and winding frames without a central hole.

Picture 1.
External view of the winding machine.

Composition of the winding machine.

1. Feed reel (reel of wire).
2. Braking (brake mechanism).
3. Stepper motor for bobbin centering.
4. Ball furniture guides.
5. Shutter of optical sensors of the reel centering mechanism.
6. Handle for moving the positioner to another section when winding sectional windings.
7. Buttons for manually switching the laying direction.
8. LEDs for laying direction.
9. Positioner stepper motor.
10. Shutters of optical winding boundary sensors.
11. Positioner screw.
12. Ball furniture guides.
13. Winding reel.
14. Winding motor.
15. Turn counter.
16. Setting buttons.
17. Optical synchronization sensor.
18. Speed controller.

Device and principle of operation.

Feeding unit.

The feeding unit is designed to attach a reel of wire of various sizes to it, and provide tension on the wire.
It includes a bobbin fastening mechanism and a shaft braking mechanism.

Figure 2.
Feeding unit.

Braking.

Without braking the feed reel, the winding of the wire on the frames will be loose and high-quality winding will not work. Felt tape “2” slows down drum “1”. Turning the lever “3” tightens the spring “4” - adjusting the braking force. For different wire thicknesses, its own braking is adjusted. Here are used finished parts VCR.

Figure 3.
Braking mechanism.

Bobbin centering.

The small dimensions of the machine and the location in close proximity of the winding reel and the feed reel with wire required the introduction of an additional mechanism for centering the feed reel.

Figure 4, 5.
Centering mechanism.

When winding the coil, the wire from the reel acts on the shutter “5”, made in the form of a “fork” and the stepper motor “3”, through a gearbox with division 6 and a toothed belt, along roller guides “4”, automatically moves the reel in the desired direction.
Thus, the wire is always in the center, see Fig. 4, Fig. 5:

Figure 6.
Sensors, rear view.

Composition and design of sensors.

19. Optical sensors for the bobbin centering mechanism.
5. A curtain covering the sensors of the reel centering mechanism.
20. Curtains covering the positioner direction switching sensors.
21. Optical sensors for switching the direction of the positioner.

Positioner.

Curtains “20” fig. 6 - the winding limit is set. The stepper motor moves the stacker mechanism until the curtain blocks one of the sensors “21” fig. 6, after which the laying direction changes.
You can change the laying direction at any time using buttons “1” fig. 7.

Figure 7.
Stacker.

Rotation speed of stepper motor “9” fig. 7, synchronized using sensor “10”, “11” Fig. 8, with the rotation of the wound coil and depends on the diameter of the wire set in the menu. The wire diameter can be set to 0.02 - 0.4mm. Using knob “8” fig. 7, you can move the entire positioner to the side without changing the winding boundaries. In this way, it is possible to wind another section in multi-section frames.

Figure 8.
Optosensor.

Composition of the positioner and opto-sensor (Fig. 7-8).

1. Buttons for manually switching the laying direction.
2. LEDs for laying direction.
3. Curtains covering the positioner direction switching sensors.
4. Linear bearing.
5. Caprolon nut.
6. Lead screw. Diameter 8mm, thread pitch 1.25mm.
7. Ball furniture guides.
8. Handle for moving the positioner to another section when winding sectional windings.
9. Stepper motor.
10. Optical timing sensor.
11. Disk covering the synchronization sensor. 18 slots.

Receiving node.

Figure 9.
Receiving node.

Figure 10, 11.
Receiving node.

1. Turn counter.
2. Commutator high-speed motor.
3. Reducer gear.
4. “Counter reset” button.
5. Speed adjustment.
6. “Start winding” switch.
7. Fastening of the winding reel.

The rotation of the wound coil is produced by a high-speed commutator motor through a gearbox.
The gearbox consists of three gears with a total pitch of 18. This provides the necessary torque at low speeds.
The motor speed is adjusted by changing the supply voltage.

Figure 12, 13.
Fastening a frame with a hole.

The design of the receiving unit allows you to fasten both frames with a central hole and frames without such holes, which is clearly visible in the figures.

Figure 14, 15.
Fastening a frame without a hole.

Electrical diagram.

Figure 16.
Electrical circuit of the winding machine.

All processes of the machine are controlled by a PIC16F877 microcontroller.
Indication of the number of turns and diameter of the wire is displayed on a four-digit LED indicator. When the “D” button is pressed, the diameter of the wire is displayed; when pressed, the number of turns is displayed.
To change the wire diameter, press the “D” button and use the “+”, “-” buttons to change the value. The set value is automatically saved in the EEPROM. Button “Zerro” - resets the counter. The “ISCP” connector is used for programming the microcontroller.

P.S. There are no mechanical drawings because the device was manufactured in one copy, and the design was formed during the assembly process.
In this design, disassembled elements and assemblies (not marked) from VCRs and printers were used.
In no case do I insist on the exact repetition of this design, but only on the use of any nodes from it in my designs.
Repetition of this device possibly by experienced radio amateurs who have mechanical skills and are able to change the design to fit their existing mechanical parts.
The mechanical part, accordingly, can be implemented differently.
Gearboxes on engines may have a different division.

Critical elements:

For the program to work correctly, a number of conditions must be met, namely;
Optical sensor “17” Fig. 1., may be of a different design, but must have 18 holes.
The positioner screw must have a pitch of 1.25 mm - this is a standard pitch for a screw with a diameter of 8 mm.
Positioner stepper motor 48 steps/revolution, 7.5 degrees/step - these are the most common motors in office equipment.

Demonstration video of the machine:

Below in the attachment (in the archive) all the necessary files and materials for assembling the winding machine are collected.
If anyone has any questions regarding assembly and setup, please ask them on the forum. I will try to answer and help if possible.

I wish you all good luck in your creativity and all the best!

Archive "Winding machine"

Transformer winding machine

In addition, many craftsmen would not mind having a homemade manual or electric coil winding machine in their arsenal of tools, as it can significantly reduce time and improve the quality of winding.

The device of a homemade winding machine

In industrial settings, special fixtures are used to mass produce various types of electrical coils and transformers. The production of similar products allows you to invest financial resources in high-speed, automatic equipment to increase the number of products produced.

When working with your own hands when repairing, restoring, creating new coils or transformers, there is no need to fully automate the rewinding process, but the method of manually laying each turn of wire does not suit all craftsmen. Therefore, the practice of creating your own models arose.

The simplest option is a do-it-yourself manual winding machine, which is equipped with an adjustable stacker and winding counter. When creating it, you should pay attention to only a few conditional requirements:

simplicity of design;
use of improvised materials;
possibility of winding coils of different sizes and configurations.

The device of the simplest homemade winding machine for transformers

An example of such a machine made by hand is this design, which works on the principle of a well gate:

base with two vertical posts made of wood or plywood;
a horizontal axis mounted on stands made of thick wire, one end of which is curved in the shape of a handle for rotation;
two tubes mounted on the axle, on one of which there is a wooden block, which is fixed with a metal pin and has a wedge for reliable fixation on the rotating axle;
a coil counter (bicycle odometer), which is connected to the free end of the axle through a dense rubber tube or a coiled spring of a suitable cross-section.

The principle of operation of such a device is based on placing the transformer frame on the axis of the device, and rotating the gate with your own hands with manual control of the wire laying density and visual control by counting the turns. to menu

Winding of toroidal transformers

In industrial conditions, special ring machines are used for high-quality winding of toroidal transformers. At home, you have to wind it by hand for a long time and without a guarantee of high-quality, even laying of the wire.

A device in the form of a shuttle, which works on the principle of a sewing needle, somewhat facilitates the work of winding toroidal transformers, but not to an sufficient extent.

Winding machine for toroidal transformers

To create a more productive device for winding toroidal transformers, you will need a bicycle wheel rim. It is secured to the wall with a pin and has a rubber ring to secure the wire.

Since the rim is solid, in order to put the frames of toroidal transformers on it, it will need to be cut and then fastened with collapsible plates.

Winding toroidal coils using this device occurs as follows:

a reel prepared for winding is put on the disconnected rim;
the rim is fastened (connected) with plates so that it is a solid circle;
wind the required amount of wire around it;
connect the end of the wire to a coil freely moving along the rim;
They begin to move the coil along the rim in complete circles, due to which the wire itself is laid on the transformer frame.

When performing such almost manual winding, it is necessary to monitor the wire tension and the density of the turns.

The bicycle wheel rim is only suitable for large reels. The same winding principle can be applied for small toroidal transformers using any flat ring of suitable dimensions. to menu

Electric winding machine

Electric machine for winding transformers, chokes, coils

Using the printer frame and many of its components and parts, you can get a device with the following features:

the winding machine is small in size;
its spindle starts and stops smoothly;
the presence of a counter will allow you to avoid errors when counting turns;
the wire is laid automatically;
possibility of sectional winding without reconfiguring the device;
reliable fastening of frames that do not have a central hole.

Units and parts of the winding machine:

wire spool (feed reel);
spindle rotation braking mechanism;
reel centering stepper motor;
guides (ball furniture set);
shutter of optical sensors on the reel centering mechanism;
handle for redirecting the positioner to another section (for sectional winding);
buttons for manually changing the laying direction;
LEDs to control the direction of laying;
positioner stepper motor;
curtains for optical sensors monitoring the winding boundary;
positioner adjusting screw;
winding reel;
winding motor;
counter of the number of turns;
device settings buttons;
optical timing sensor;
rotation speed regulator.

Homemade electric machine for winding transformers

Go to menu

Purpose and principle of operation of individual parts and assemblies

Feeding unit - used to install a reel of wire in it, ensuring the required amount of tension when feeding. Consists of a device for fastening bobbins and a system for braking shaft rotation.

Braking is necessary to ensure high-quality winding due to the tension of the supplied wire.

Centering the feed reel is necessary due to the small dimensions of the machine and is performed using a centering mechanism that works as follows:

the wire unwinded from the reel passes through a curtain, which is shaped like a fork;
A stepper motor, through a gearbox with a toothed belt, automatically moves the reel along roller guides.

Layer - allows for reconfiguration when winding wires of different diameters - from 0.2 to 0.4 mm.

The take-up reel on which the layers are wound

Receiving unit - the rotation of the reel on which the wire is wound is provided by a high-speed electric motor with a gearbox. The gearbox consists of 3 gears with a total pitch of 18, which allows you to obtain sufficient torque at low speeds. The rotation speed of the electric motor itself is adjusted by changing the voltage supplied to it.

The fastening design allows the frames to be fastened without a through hole, due to two flat plates that compress them on both sides.

Homemade winding machine for transformers (video)

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ostanke.ru

Do-it-yourself toroidal transformer - calculation of turns, winding technology

Current or voltage conversion is used in almost every electrical appliance. What is a transformer for? A more practical and universal device for voltage conversion has not yet been invented.

How does a transformer work?

The basis of the device is a closed magnetic circuit. Windings of two or more are wound on it. When an alternating voltage appears on the primary winding, a magnetic flux is excited at the base. It induces an alternating voltage with a similar frequency on the remaining windings.

The difference in the number of turns between the windings determines the voltage change coefficient. Simply put, if the secondary winding has half as many turns, a voltage will appear on it that is half that of the primary. The power remains the same, which allows you to work with higher currents at lower voltages.

Important! The transformer can only operate with alternating or pulsed currents. It is impossible to convert DC voltage in this way.

The design differs in the shape of the magnetic circuit.

Armored

Forms two turns of magnetic field, designed for heavy loads. The magnetic core is detachable, easy to assemble - the finished winding is put on the central rod. Disadvantage: heavy and bulky. The outer and transverse rods of the magnetic circuit are not effectively used.

Rod

The design is similar to the armored one, the magnetic field is single-turn, and accordingly the power is less. Also has collapsible design. The efficiency of using the surface of the magnetic circuit is not higher than 40%.

Toroidal transformer

Has the highest efficiency. This is achieved through 100% use of the magnetic circuit area. Therefore, with the same power, such transformers are smaller in size. Another advantage is that due to the distribution of the windings over the entire base area, the cooling of the turns is more efficient. This allows the converter to be loaded even more without exceeding the critical temperature. There is only one drawback - such transformers are difficult to assemble, since the base is one-piece.

Materials for the magnetic core:

Iron bases are assembled from plates, wound by tape, or cast monolithically. Most efficient material– ferrite. Most often it is used in tori, increasing their efficiency.

We looked at what types of transformers there are by design. When you buy a ready-made device, you don’t care much about how difficult it is to make it.
The toroidal design is easy to install (takes up little space and is secured with one screw). However, such a device costs more than rod or armored voltage converters. Often its price exceeds the savings from self-made the entire electrical installation.

How to make a toroidal transformer with your own hands?

The first thing that comes to mind is to take a ready-made torus from a broken household appliances, and try changing the parameters of the secondary winding to suit your calculations. All radio amateurs know how to rewind a transformer with their own hands.

But the toroidal core cannot be disassembled; if you pass a couple of thousand (or even hundreds) of turns through the donut, it will take months to rewind. And the probability of damaging the wire sheath with this method is quite high.

Important! The winding copper wire has a protective varnish coating. Sometimes rag, for powerful windings. Additional insulation increases the cross-section, and accordingly the volume of the winding triples. Therefore, when winding, the turns are laid without longitudinal movement (pulling), so as not to damage the insulation.

To avoid asking questions like: “What can be made from a microwave transformer?” (spotters are made from it spot welding), it would be more logical to select a transformer for a specific task, and not vice versa.

If your electrical appliance is compact, look for a toroidal converter. By the way, in microwave ovens Armored transformers of a fairly large size are used.

Having an idea of the characteristics of the power supply being assembled, you should know how to calculate the power of the transformer. Having received this important characteristic, you begin the search for a donor. If the purchased transformer has a factory label, or even better, a product passport, you use this information. What if you have an unnamed product in your hands?
The first question that will arise is: “How to determine the terminals of the transformer?” It is necessary to measure the resistance between the contacts using a multimeter. We need to find the primary winding. As a rule, the primary contacts are not connected to the secondary windings.

That is, if the continuity test showed a guaranteed isolated winding, this is a primary. Based on the measurement results, we draw a diagram and begin to determine the voltage reduction factors.

Important! You must be absolutely sure that what you have in front of you is a 220-volt voltage transformer, and not a choke or device designed for a different input voltage.

We supply a voltage of 220 volts to the contacts of the primary winding. For safety, you can limit the current to some load. For example, turn on an incandescent lamp with a power of 40-60 W in series. The lamp is bypassed with a conventional toggle switch. The connection is made through a fuse, or a household extension cord with a circuit breaker (in case of a short circuit).
It is necessary to let the torus work for several minutes “idle” with the lamp on. Then turn off the power and assess the temperature of the device. If there is no excessive heating, bypass the lamp with a switch and again give time to check the heating.

After this, you can begin to draw a voltage diagram on the secondary windings. Take measurements on the contacts in all possible combinations. Display the results on the diagram. Having received the complete picture, apply a load corresponding to the voltage to the windings. The best way- the same incandescent lamp.

Attention! Checking the secondary windings under load is an indirect way to find out the power of a transformer.

You can evaluate the capabilities of the device by the degree of heating under load. Normal temperature– no more than 45°С. That is, immediately after disconnecting from the network, the transformer can be touched by hand without temperature discomfort.

Let's consider how to calculate the power of a transformer

First, we determine the cross-section of the base. The magnetic core must not only withstand a magnetic field of a certain intensity, it also dissipates the generated heat. There is a simplified method for calculating the cross-sectional area in cm². It is equal to the square root of the required power value in watts.

This is the maximum value; a real transformer should have a margin of +50%. Otherwise, the core will fall into the region of magnetic saturation, which will lead to sudden local heating. For toroidal cores, a margin of 30% of the calculated area is sufficient.

To do this, we will use a simple formula: divide the constant 60 by the cross-sectional area in cm². For example, the cross-section of the magnetic circuit is 6 cm². This means that for every volt of input voltage, 10 turns of wire are required. That is, with a power supply of 220 volts, the primary winding will consist of 2200 turns.

The calculation of secondary windings is made in proportion to the transformation ratio. If 20 volts of output are required, at a constant of 10 turns per volt, 200 turns of secondary winding will be required. This is an absolute value, excluding load losses. We obtain the true number of turns by multiplying the value by 1.2.

Before winding the transformer, you need to know the cross-section of the wire. Minimum diameter wire is calculated by the formula: D=0.7*√I

D – conductor diameter in mm

Important! The diameter of the conductor is measured without taking into account the thickness of the insulating varnish. It must be washed off with acetone at the measurement site. This is true for wires with a small cross-section.

0.7 – setting factor

√I – Square root from the current value in amperes

There is no need to skimp on wires. A smaller diameter does not dissipate heat well and the winding may burn out. The thinner the wire, the higher the resistance. Possible power losses and reduction in design characteristics.

The calculation has been made, the parameters of the “donor” have been determined, and the secondary winding needs to be rewinded. On a core or armored transformer, everything is simple - the winding is wound on a box made of electrical cardboard, then put on a dismountable magnetic core.

How to wind a toroidal transformer?

Winding toroidal transformer do it yourself - video.

There are two methods that have been proven over decades.

Using a shuttle. We pre-wind the required amount of conductor onto the fork shuttle. It is better to calculate it with a margin; losses from distortions on the turns are possible.
This method is suitable in cases where the internal diameter of the torus is large enough and the conductor is thin and flexible. The number of turns also matters. It will take you a very long time to wind a winding of even 500-700 turns. The second technology is more advanced. Winding with an unlockable rim.

The winding rim is threaded through the donut hole and connected into a single ring. Then the required amount of wire is wound onto it. After which the conductor is wound from the rim onto the toroid, with its simultaneous rotation for uniform laying.

obinstrumente.ru

Features of winding a transformer with your own hands

Winding a transformer with your own hands is not so much a complicated process as it is a lengthy process that requires constant concentration.

For those who begin such work for the first time, it can be difficult to figure out what material to use and how to check the finished device. Step-by-step instruction, presented below, will give beginners answers to all questions.

Selection of necessary tools

Before you begin directly winding, you need to stock up on all the necessary devices and tools to complete the work:

Types and methods, directions of winding of transformer windings are presented in the photo:

Insulation of winding layers

In some cases, it is necessary to insert spacers between the wires for insulation. Most often, capacitor or cable paper is used for this.

The middle of adjacent transformer windings should be more insulated. To insulate and level the surface under the next layer of winding, you will need a special varnished cloth, which must be wrapped on both sides with paper. If there is no varnished fabric, then you can solve the problem using the same paper folded in several layers.

Paper strips for insulation should be 2-4 mm wider than the winding.

Algorithm of actions

Fix the wire with the coil in the winding device, and the transformer frame in the winding device. Make rotations soft, moderate, without disruption.
Lower the wire from the reel onto the frame.
Leave at least 20 cm between the table and the wire so that you can place your hand on the table and fix the wire. Also on the table should be all related materials: sandpaper, scissors, insulating paper, soldering tool included, pencil or pen.
With one hand, smoothly rotate the winding device, and with the other, fix the wire. It is necessary that the wire lies evenly, turn to turn.
Insulate the transformer frame, and thread the output end of the wire through the frame hole and briefly fix it on the axis of the winding device.
Winding should begin without haste: you need to “get your hands on it” so that you can lay the turns next to each other.
It is necessary to ensure that the wire angle and tension are constant. You should not wind each subsequent layer “all the way”, because the wires can slip and fall into the frame “cheeks”.
Set the counting device (if any) to zero or carefully count the turns orally.
Glue the insulating material together or press it with a soft rubber ring.
Make each subsequent turn 1-2 turns thinner than the previous one.

To learn how to wind transformer coils with your own hands, watch this video:

Connecting wires

If a break occurs during winding, then:

thin wires (thinner than 0.1 mm) twist and weld;
the ends of wires of medium thickness (less than 0.3 mm) should be freed from insulating material 1-1.5 cm, twist and solder;
the ends of thick wires (thicker than 0.3 mm) need to be slightly stripped and soldered without twisting;
Insulate the place of soldering (welding).

Important points

If thin wire is used for winding, then the number of turns should exceed several thousand. The top of the winding must be protected with insulation paper or leatherette.

If the transformer is wrapped with a thick wire, then external protection is not required.

Trial

After the winding is completed, it is necessary to test the transformer in action; to do this, connect its primary winding to the network.

To check the device for short circuits, you should connect the primary winding and the lamp in series to the power source.

The degree of insulation reliability is checked by alternately touching the output end of the wire to each output end of the network winding.

The transformer test should be carried out very carefully and carefully so as not to come under voltage from the step-up winding.

If you strictly follow the proposed instructions and do not neglect any of the points, then winding the transformer manually will not present any difficulties, and even a beginner can cope with it.

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elektrik24.net

How to wind a transformer with your own hands?

Winding a toroidal transformer
Unwinding wire
Automation of counting the number of turns
Conclusion on the topic

Winding a transformer with your own hands is a necessary skill for both beginners and experienced electricians or radio amateurs. It is performed during work such as assembling a radio receiver, amplifier or repairing an old transformer device. Before winding a transformer, it is important to determine for yourself the sequence of actions and tests of the device, as well as to know what materials and tools are used for this.

Figure 1. A device based on the principle of a well gate.

What devices should I use?

In factory conditions, when industry requires, first of all, speed and accuracy from the winding process, all work is carried out using special machines. What should home craftsmen and radio amateurs do? In most cases, winding has to be done manually, which ultimately affects the accuracy of the device. The second (more preferable) option is the use of homemade winding machines. Their design is extremely simple; the presence of such a tool will significantly facilitate this routine task. When choosing the design of a winding device, you must be guided by the following parameters:

ease of creation and use of the device;
smooth movement of the reel;
possibility of winding transformers of different sizes;
It is desirable to have a device for counting the number of coils of wire.

Figure 2. Device from hand drill.

There are several simple devices that fully meet the stated requirements. Their production does not take much time, and you can use available materials. Let's look at these options below.

The simplest and most common device works on the principle of a well gate. Its element is a base on which a horizontal metal axis is mounted, located on two vertical posts. It is passed through the holes in both racks, bending it in the shape of a handle on one side (Fig. 1).

To avoid horizontal movement of the axis, two small tubes are placed on it. Near one of the tubes there will be a wooden block, fixed with a metal pin, and a wedge, which allows you to securely fasten the device to the axis.

A device made from a hand drill works on the same principle. The only difference is that the tool must be securely fixed to avoid unnecessary movements that could lead to violation of the interval between wire coils. A steel rod is inserted into the drill, onto which the body of the future transformer is placed. Perfect option– use of a metal pin of small diameter. Due to the presence of threads on its surface, the transformer body can be completely immobilized with stoppers made of 2 nuts (Fig. 2).

The machine turned out to be simple and at the same time functional. Front and top view.

It allows you to wind windings on round hollow frames with an internal diameter of 10 mm, as well as on square or rectangular section internal size from 10x10 mm.

The maximum winding length is 180-200 mm. The maximum diameter (diagonal of the rectangular frame) is 200 mm. Winding can be done manually with a wire with a diameter of up to 3.2 mm, in the “semi-automatic” winding mode with a wire from 0.31 to 2.0 mm. “Semi-automatic” winding involves winding and laying a layer of wire synchronously with the winding, followed by manual laying of the insulation layer and changing the direction of laying the wire. On round mandrels with manual laying, even tubes with a diameter of up to 6 mm can be wound. For laying wires of different diameters, a set of interchangeable pulleys is provided, allowing you to select 27 different winding steps in the range of 0.31 - 1.0 mm or 54 winding steps in the range of 0.31 - 3.2 mm. The machine itself easily fits on a regular kitchen stool and, due to its large weight, does not require additional fastening.

Principle of operation

Simple as hell. The shaft on which the transformer frame is mounted is kinematically connected to the shaft along which the wire handler moves. The wire manager has a sleeve with a thread inside. When the shaft rotates, the sleeve moves and moves the wire guide along with it. The rotation speed of the shaft is determined by the diameters of the pulleys installed on the upper and lower shafts, and the speed of movement of the sleeve is also determined by the thread pitch of the stacker shaft. A set of 3 triple pulleys allows for up to 54 wire spacing combinations. The direction of laying is changed by rearranging the belt connecting the pulleys. The rotation of the shaft with the frame can be done manually, or you can use an electric drill as a drive.

DETAILS

All dimensions are as in the original.

bed

The machine bed is welded from steel sheets. The base of the frame is chosen to be 15 mm thick, the sides - 6 mm thick. The choice is determined primarily by the stability of the machine (the heavier the better)

Before welding, the sidewalls of the frame are folded together and holes are drilled simultaneously in both sidewalls. After this, the frames are installed on the base and welded to it. Bronze bushings are inserted into the upper and middle holes of the sidewalls, and bearings into the lower ones.

The bearings are taken from an old 5 inch drive. From moving bearings and bushings with outside sidewalls are fixed with lids.

Shafts

The upper shaft on which the reel frame is attached is made of a rod with a diameter of 12 mm. In this design, all shafts are made from shafts of suitable diameter from used dot matrix printers, they are made of good steel, hardened, chrome-plated or ground.

The middle shaft on which the wire feeder rests is also made of a rod with a diameter of 12 mm. It is advisable to polish the shaft.

The choice of the diameter of the lower shaft - the feeder - was determined by the need to have a thread pitch of 1 mm, but there was only one suitable 10x1.0 hole. It is advisable (for greater reliability) to make this shaft also with a diameter of 12 mm.

Stacker bushing

Diameter 20 mm, length 20 mm, internal thread is the same as on the lower shaft M12x1.0 (in the original - M10x1.0)

Pulleys

The pulleys are made of triple pulleys, i.e. 3 grooves each different diameters in one block. The diameters are selected to best cover the required range of wire cross-sections.

Machined from steel, the combination of pulleys allows for 54 different wire winding pitches. The width of the groove for the belt is selected based on the existing belts, in this particular case 6 mm. Please note: the total thickness of the pulleys should be no more than 20 mm. If the thickness of the pulleys is greater, it is necessary to increase the length of the left shanks of the lower and upper shaft (the diameter of which is 8 mm, length 50 mm).

If necessary, single pulleys of appropriate diameters can be manufactured. The selected pulley diameters allow the wire to be wound in 54 different pitches.

Step table

The rows indicate the diameters of the driving pulleys, the columns indicate the diameters of the driven pulleys. In the cells of the table there is a wire winding sword.

This table is only indicative, since it depends on the manufacturing accuracy of the pulleys, the diameter of the belt and the thread pitch on the lower (feed) shaft. After manufacturing the entire machine, it is necessary to clarify the resulting relationships using the test winding method and draw up a similar table. Inaccuracy in manufacturing will not affect performance; other diameter ratios will lead to different winding steps. But a large number of combinations will allow you to choose the right step in any case. If it is necessary to wind more thin wire, you can make another triple pulley with diameters of, for example, 12, 16 and 20 mm. The presence of such a pulley will further expand the range of wires used (starting from a diameter of 0.15 mm).

Wire handler.

Stacker plate drawing

Made from 3 plates connected to each other with M4 screws. Hole diameter 20 mm. A hole in the upper part with a diameter of 6 mm for the tension adjustment screw.

The inner plate is steel; a steel sleeve with a diameter of 20 mm, a length of 20 mm and a internal thread 12x1.0. A fluoroplastic bushing with an outer diameter of 20 mm and an inner diameter of 12.5 mm is inserted into the upper hole. The length of the bushing is 20 mm. The plates are tightened together with 2 M4 screws; the holes for them are not shown in the figure.

A groove made of leather 1.8-2 mm thick is glued into the groove between the outer plates; it helps straighten and tension the wire. To adjust the tension, a screw or mini clamp is installed in the upper part of the stacker, tightening the upper part of the outer plates, depending on the diameter of the wire and the required tension.

At the rear of the frame there is a folding bracket for a reel of wire, an optional but convenient thing.

Drive unit

A large diameter gear is used as a drive, to which a handle is riveted. On the right side of the frame (in place) there is a fixation and auxiliary drive unit, which is a shaft with a gear mounted on a separate bracket with a collet clamp and a protruding axis. The axle can be secured in a chuck cordless screwdriver or an electric drill and thus make an electric drive. When winding a thick wire, you can attach a handle to the axis, then winding even a thick tube will be easier. The collet clamp allows you to reliably fix the shaft with the winding reel, if for some reason you have to interrupt the winding for a long time.

Turn counter.

A magnet is attached to the upper shaft gear, and a reed switch is attached to the right side, the terminals of which are connected to the contacts of the “=” button of the calculator.

Other small parts and the parts are installed locally and made from whatever God sends.

On last photo It can be seen that the coil with the wire is placed on a separate shaft. The shaft is mounted on 2 levers that can be lifted up, then they fold inside the machine. This is done so that the machine does not take up much space during its inactivity.

Working on the machine.

Although it is already clear what is being done and how, I will describe the procedure. The slight complexity of installing frames and the apparent difficulty of changing the laying direction are compensated by the simplicity of the machine.

Remove the upper pulley, push the upper shaft to the right to the length required for installing the frame. Place the right disk on the shaft, then the coil mandrel, and put the coil or transformer frame on the mandrel. Install the left disk, screw on the nut and insert the shaft into the left bushing. Reinstall and secure the upper pulley (corresponding to the table for winding the primary winding).

Insert a cotter pin or nail into the hole on the upper shaft, center the frame on the mandrel and tighten the frame with the mandrel using a nut.

Install the required pulley (for winding the primary winding) on the feed shaft.

Rotate the feed shaft pulley to install the stacker against the right or left cheek of the reel frame. Place the belt on the pulleys. If the wire will be laid from left to right, the belt is put on in a “ring”; if the wire needs to be laid from right to left, the belt is put on in a “figure eight”.

The wire is threaded under the additional shaft, then laid from bottom to top in the leather groove of the handler and secured to the frame. The clamps on the top of the stacker adjust the tension of the wire so that it is tightly wound around the frame.

Press 1 + 1 on the calculator. Now, with each revolution of the shaft with the frame, the calculator will add 1, that is, it will count the turns of the wire. If you need to rewind several turns, press - 1 and with each revolution of the shaft, the calculator readings will decrease by 1.

When winding the wire, monitor the laying of the turns, adjusting the turns on the frame if necessary. When the wire reaches the opposite cheek of the frame, clamp the collet clamp and change the position of the belt from the “ring” to the “figure eight” or vice versa. After releasing the collet, place release paper under the wire and continue winding.

If you need to change the wire thickness, select the pulley ratio for the required winding pitch.

OK it's all over Now. I apologize for the low quality of the photos, but I hope that everything will become clear to you from the photos and drawings provided.