Digging up trees (sharing experience). When to dig up trees in the fall. Autumn and winter care, fertilizing of fruit trees Why dig up trees

The soil in the forest may be good remedy, a useful fertilizer not only for fruit trees, but also for shrubs and perennial flowers.

Forest soil on a personal plot is used as follows:

1. In the last ten days of September, autumn digging of the soil is carried out orchard, digging in fruit trees at a distance sufficient to avoid damaging the roots.

2. The groove is made up to 35 cm deep. Then the groove is filled with forest humus.

3. The entire surface of the earth from the tree trunk to the ditch is removed (a layer of 18 cm) and the soil of the orchard is fertilized; for this, forest humus is poured on top and leveled.

Ash as a remedy for fruit rot

Gardeners have experience that wood ash (especially from hardwood trees such as beech, oak and others) is an excellent material used to fertilize trees. This prevents the appearance of possible rot on many fruits of fruit trees.

Autumn digging and soil fertilization

As a rule, gardeners dig up the soil in the fall and fertilize the soil of the orchard every year. Significant clods of earth that are obtained during digging must be broken into pieces, and the surface carefully leveled.

In this case, soil that is looser, but not completely crushed to a powder, does not contain weeds, will better withstand drought, and in addition, at night, such soil will absorb some of the moisture from the cool air.

When applying fertilizers when digging, such as manure, its quality should be taken into account.

Digging up fruit trees in the fall correctly

If the manure contains a lot of hay or straw, then it is enough to put a layer of up to 10 cm on the site. It is necessary to ensure that the manure does not lie close to the trees, does not come into contact with the bark, and the space free from fertilizers is up to 25 cm from the center of the tree.

During the period of spring work, manure is not buried in the soil, but slightly thin layer scattered over the surface and left for the whole summer. This will act as shading. When heavy rains begin, it is better to remove the manure from the trees so that all the soil the best way got wet. When the rain stops, the manure should be returned to its place. This work will not take much time, and at the same time it will be useful for the plants.

Timely autumn digging and fertilizing of the soil of the orchard; all rotted manure can be either buried directly in the ground or left on the surface of the earth without burying until next summer. If there are places where there is not enough fertilizer, you can add it there and bury it to a shallower depth of 10 cm the next fall.

The manure that will be left for the second summer, before digging the soil in the fall, must be collected in heaps in order to be scattered again in the spring.

Wood ash is mainly used as surface fertilizer. The ash dissolves quite slowly, so it is scattered in the fall. You can add ash and in early spring, after the snow melts.

In spring, not only trees and shrubs wake up from hibernation, but also pests. Therefore, spring processing of fruit trees is the key to a good harvest.

The key to a good harvest is correct and regular care. fruit trees and bushes. Among its most important points is the treatment of trees in the spring. It is during this season that each tree needs several sprayings and whitewashing. These manipulations will protect the garden from diseases and various pests.

Why do you need garden treatment in spring?

Spring treatment is a kind of hygienic procedure for awakening trees.

What does garden treatment in spring give:

1. Protection from diseases.
2. Extermination of insect pests.
3. Protection from rodents.
4. Increasing the productivity of garden crops.
5. Additional plant nutrition.

Signs of diseases of trees and shrubs

1. The cut branches have a brown tint.
2. Growths on trunks and branches in the shape of ellipses.
3. Unnaturally severe swelling of the kidneys.
4. Dark brown blots on the leaves of apple and cherry trees.
5. Large gum scratches on the top layer of the barrel.
6. Browning and drying of leaves and flowers, curling them into a tube.
7. Curling of young peach leaves is a sign of a fungal disease.

Garden pests

The main problem on garden plot in the spring they are pests. The most famous of them:

• Weevils: goose, beetle, apple flower beetle damage young buds. This damage resembles injections with needles, near which droplets of juice sometimes appear. Most of these buds die without ever blooming.
• Aphids and copperheads eat young leaves.
• Red apple and brown apple mites love blossoming buds.
• The cherry moth caterpillar spoils the cherry buds, which subsequently dry out. The insect itself eats the buds and bites into the stems.
• The larvae of honey moths glue the flower stalks together, preventing the buds from blooming.
• Apple and plum sawflies lay their eggs in the developing fruit, which stops growing and falls off.
• The apple moth caterpillar attacks young leaves.
• Winter moth.
• Gypsy moth caterpillar.
• Hawthorn caterpillar.
• Large hairy beetles are deer beetles. They eat the pistils.
• Apple flower beetle.
• Currant bud moth.
• Gooseberry moth butterfly.
• Raspberry-strawberry weevils.

Methods for treating garden trees in spring

When early spring arrives, begin the first treatment of trees, and also improve the garden: trim the crown, clean the trunks of old bark and overgrown lichen. The next step is the process of processing the garden during the bud setting period. Perform final spraying at the end of flowering.

Spring protection of fruit trees and bushes from diseases consists of three stages:

1. Whitewashing trunks.
2. Tilling the soil near the trunk.
3. Spraying with special means.

Whitewashing trees

Do whitewashing in April.

Work process:

1. Use a wire brush to remove old bark from the trunks. Use special garden putty to repair the damage to the trunk and let it dry thoroughly.
2. Treat tree trunks with slaked lime. In order for the effect to appear, whitewash the trunk twice.
3. Appeared modern means whitewash based on copper sulfate and PVA glue. Such processing will give best result. The composition disinfects the tree bark. And it is more stable than lime.
4. Prepare this mixture yourself: dilute 2.5 kg of lime in a bucket of water, add half a liter of copper sulfate and 200 ml of glue.

Spraying plants with chemicals and bioactive substances

By the end of April, apply biological and chemical protection for fruit trees. Do it before flowering.

Use a tank mixture for spraying, that is, a mixture of drugs in one container. To do this, take: copper oxychloride 0.4%, which protects against diseases, and fufanon 0.1% to eliminate pests. Prepare the solution immediately before using it. It takes 2–5 liters of product to spray one tree.

Yulia Petrichenko, expert

To get 10 liters working fluid 0.4%, take 40g of “HOM Wetting Powder”. When using ABIGA-PIK aqueous suspension, take 100 ml of the product.

Use the tank mixture after flowering.

Is it necessary to dig up the trunks of fruit trees?

During the budding period it is dangerous to use chemicals. Do not spray under any circumstances blooming trees, there is a possibility of harming pollinating insects.

If precipitation occurs immediately after the treatment procedure, repeat everything again. Only if after spraying the result is not washed off within 3 hours, then the treatment is completed successfully.

How to treat fruit trees against pests

Treat trees against pests using proven means.

Preparations for combating diseases of garden trees

Copper sulfate

Cheap and common drug. It has been used by many generations of gardeners. Recipe for preparing a working mixture of copper sulfate: dilute 100 g of the product in a 10-liter bucket of water. Copper sulfate resists pests and diseases of shrubs and trees. It protects against fruit rot, scab and black cancer.

Urea

A proven and favorite way for gardeners to protect their harvest of berries and fruits. Recipe for preparing working fluid: pour half a kilo of urea into a 10-liter bucket of water. This solution will go to the roots of the trees and will fertilize the soil all summer.

Use the urea solution for its intended purpose immediately; storing its remains is prohibited, they will not bring any benefit.

Pest control products

Colloidal sulfur

An excellent remedy against insects overwintering in the bark. When processing the garden in the spring, be sure to include in the general program the stage of spraying colloidal sulfur. Good protection against ticks.

Bordeaux mixture

What chemicals to spray trees before flowering?

Before the flowering period, spray the trees every ten days with keltan or karbofos. Recipe: 30 g per 10 liters of water.

Chemicals for treating the garden after flowering

When flowering has passed, use products belonging to the first hazard class. These are “Neoron”, “Nurelld”, “Decis”, “Marshal”. These products destroy almost any pest. If you are concerned about your health and safety, use biological products “Actofit”, “Barrier”, “Fitoverm”. This chemicals, but they are based on soil microorganisms.

How to treat plants in spring

Tree spraying devices

For convenience, use a spray tool for ten liters of product. If you need to process tall trees, purchase a telescopic hose. A stepladder is also a good helper in the fight for the harvest.

To ensure that the drug falls on the treated plant as a rain of small drops, keep the sprayer tip at a distance of no closer than 1 meter from the tree. Start working from the top of the crown.

Treat every corner of the garden thoroughly. Pests have a habit of hibernating in one secluded corner and causing damage in another.

Safety precautions when processing the garden

Do not neglect protective equipment when processing your garden plot. For the face, use a gauze bandage or a respirator. Put rubber gloves on your hands. Be sure to cover your head with a scarf, hood or hat. Protect your eyes with glasses.

Do you treat your fruit trees and shrubs? Which tools do you trust the most? What medications didn't work for you? Do you stock up on modern equipment for spring gardening or do you do it the old fashioned way? Tell us in the comments to the article.

Yulia Petrichenko

Amateur gardener, 18 years of experience

About Me: I will share the secrets of a rich harvest and teach you how to create garden compositions.

Spring treatment of the garden against pests and diseases: spraying fruit trees - apple trees, pears, cherries, shrubs - print version

Home Gardening Should I dig up the trunk circle around trees?

Should I dig up the trunk circle around trees? Gardeners have one age-old debate: in what form should the soil under fruit trees be kept?

Some are sure that it needs to be dug up. Others argue that grass should grow in the tree trunk circle - just like in nature. So, where is the truth? And in order to understand who is right and who is not so right, let’s define pros and cons of both methods.

Digging up the tree trunk circle, black steam

This version of digging is also called black steam. Its essence is that the soil in the tree trunk circle is dug up in the fall, and then the weeds are pulled out all summer. And so it repeats from year to year.

What advantages do we get when digging:

1. Pests die. As you know, many pests overwinter in the soil. And if in the fall you shovel the tree trunk circle with a turnover of the layer, then most of the larvae will die from frost.

2. Additional area for planting appears. You can grow shade-tolerant flowers or even vegetables under trees.

What do we get from the disadvantages of this method:

1. Beneficial insects die.

2. The roots are damaged. The fact is that in many trees and shrubs the bulk of the small roots that absorb water and nutrients from the soil are located at a depth of 30-40 cm. By digging up the soil with a shovel bayonet, we injure or destroy more than half of these roots!

3. The frost resistance of the tree decreases. In winter, dug up soil freezes much deeper than undisturbed soil. The cold can kill the roots and the tree will die.

4. The quality of the land is deteriorating.

If tree trunk circles dig up annually, over time, the earth will turn to dust and will “float” and squeak after every rain or watering. And this, in turn, will lead to oxygen starvation of the roots.

Option for a grass lawn under fruit trees

In this case, meadow grass is left under the trees.

What benefits do we get from this:

1. The quality of the land is constantly improving. In an untouched area, plant roots and earthworms create a special soil structure - loose, porous.

As a result, both moisture and air penetrate into it better.

2. Trees receive fertilizer. The grass that dies every autumn gradually decomposes, and this provides additional organic nutrition for the tree.

3. Plants winter better. Grass under trees and shrubs provides additional protection for the roots from frost. And the internal heat of the soil does not evaporate so quickly. And this is very important in snowless winters!

4. The roots do not overheat in summer. The grass perfectly protects them from the scorching sun.

5. You won’t have to do unnecessary, and labor-intensive, work. Since digging up a site and weeding are the most unpleasant and tedious tasks. And if you leave a meadow under the trees, you won’t have to strain yourself once again.

How often should you dig up trees? And what?

will appear extra bed for a recreation area: put a table and a bench on the green grass under a tree, where you can hide in the summer heat!

What are the disadvantages we have:

1. Pests and pathogens will be able to survive. They will overwinter well in undisturbed soil, and in the spring you will have to treat the plants with chemicals. But if you constantly look after the garden and do not forget about preventing diseases and pests, then this, in fact, is not a problem. In addition, beneficial insects can also survive in the soil, which will help you fight harmful ones.

2. Loss of usable area. On the other hand, no matter how much land you give to a summer resident, he will still not have enough. And the lawn under the tree can also be used for planting. For example, mark there bulbous plants: snowdrops, pushkinia, corydalis, hellebores or daffodils.

What is the conclusion: As you can see, the option when grass grows under a tree has much more advantages. So it makes sense to abandon steam in favor of meadow.

In this case in the tree trunk circle you can create a man-made lawn. Lawn grasses such as bentgrass, clover and other ground cover plants grow well under the trees. They can be sown from spring to September and even before winter.

To the question Tell me, do you dig up apple and pear trees, and if so, what do you plant under them or leave them like that? given by the author Just love the best answer is Yes, I always try to keep the tree trunk area clean, both in adult and small apple trees.

Well, if I plant it, I only plant green manure - mustard, for example - and again, when it ripens, I process it and dig it up!! More than once a season
Filipich
Higher intelligence
(198919)
I will say this: if you dig with a shovel, then not only the small ones will suffer!! The soil under our apple trees is as loose and soft as a feather, fertilized and well-groomed, so you don’t have to dig it up as you go, you can just loosen it carefully... well, if you want!!

Answer from J K[guru]
I plant peas under apple trees. Peas seem to provide nitrogen to the roots of the apple tree.

Answer from NASTYUSHA[guru]
We are digging with sawdust. Only sawdust should be deciduous trees. Pests don’t like them (sawdust) and they retain moisture.. Well, the soil breathes.

Answer from Lesnaya[guru]
Perennial flowers, including bulbous ones, are planted under the fruit trees. I try to use the land as much as possible, since the plot is small. These plantings do not interfere with feeding the tree.

Answer from Vladimir Nikolaev[guru]
I cover it with pine leaves and lawn grass so that the worms can feed.

Answer from Irina Gromova[guru]
I dig up and plant flowers or greenery under them. I planted a few bushes of parsley under the pear tree so as not to make a garden bed. I use every centimeter of usable space. And with the bushes and trees benefiting from more weeding, loosening, fertilizing and watering.

Answer from Galina[guru]
I mulch the ground under the apple trees with compost, I planted sunflower and heuchera under the apple tree, in the spring I sow nasturtium, the viola grows itself.

Answer from Zhanna S[guru]
It is still more useful and practical to leave tree trunk circles uncovered
and in a loose state.
This does not mean that you need to dig in the usual sense of the word.
But going through it with a flat cutter or slightly loosening it with a pitchfork is only beneficial.
If there is not enough space, you have to compact it, but this option is not a good option and makes it very difficult to care for trees and plants growing under them.

Answer from Irina Shabalina[guru]
No. When digging, small suction roots are damaged (they “start” at a depth of 10 cm), which are responsible for nutrition and the tree will not only go on a starvation ration, but will also spend the available reserves on restoring the root, instead of planting a new crop. ----hence the frequency of fruiting. the poorer the soil, the more pronounced this effect. It is best to keep the soil under trees or under mulch or sod. or, as a last resort, just loosen the top layer. but it is best to keep it under constant mulch - it rots and gives the tree everything it needs without any additional fertilizers. But if you treat trees with chemicals. then you shouldn’t plant greens for food under them - greens accumulate poison the most. , then it’s better to plant decorative ones.

“Hello, dear editors of Smart Economy!

Thank you for such a useful newspaper for us, simple and hardworking people who love the earth and plants. I want to tell you about my garden and share my experience of digging up trees.

I have more than 10 fruit trees in my garden. I pay a lot of attention to them, because they, like any person, require care. But not just any kind, but a very thorough one.

I dig up trees every year with the arrival of spring.

The depth of turning the earth is about half the bayonet of a shovel, within a radius of about 50 cm around the tree.

I also coat the lower part of the tree trunk with clay. And only after that I start whitewashing.

I think that many people make the mistake of simply whitewashing a tree - by doing so they harm the plant. The whole point is that the bark deteriorates at the bottom of the tree. It must be taken care of very much, which is achieved with the help of clay and whitewash.

In addition, I believe that trees in the spring need not only to be dug up, but also to be fertilized.

Last spring I buried it under leaf humus that I put in the hole in the fall. And the trees immediately thanked us: there were much more apples, and they were larger (almost 2 times more compared to previous years).”

In order for trees to grow quickly, be strong and tall, they need care. This applies to both decorative and fruit species. If earlier the trunk circles around trees were left in the form of open areas of soil, which were dug up and fertilized in the fall and spring or covered with mulch, then in our time an increasing number of summer residents plant flowers, herbs and vegetables on them or sow lawns.

This not only decorates the garden and benefits the trees themselves, but also allows you to save area in favor of other types of plants.

To dig or not to dig?

For many gardeners, the pressing question is how to properly care for fruit trees and when to dig up the ground around them, whether to do it at all, or whether it is better to sow this area with grass. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. Among the advantages of digging are the following:

• There will be fewer pests or they will disappear altogether.
• Since the tree trunk circle of fruit trees expands as they grow, this makes it possible to use this land profitably, for example, to plant a flower garden.

Since there are more disadvantages to digging up soil around trees, many summer residents have abandoned this practice. This is due to the fact that:

• When digging up the soil in the fall, not only pests are destroyed, but also beneficial microorganisms. For example, aerobic bacteria living on the surface require oxygen. When digging, the top layer of soil turns over and they end up underground. Deprived of oxygen, they die, and since it is aerobic bacteria that supply plants with basic nutrients, the trees are thereby deprived of elements important for life.
• When digging there is always a risk of damaging the roots. This is especially true for those that are closer to the surface and receive the necessary nutrition from it.
• Autumn digging reduces the frost resistance of trees, as the soil becomes open to the cold.

Each summer resident decides for himself how to care for his garden, but more and more people are inclined to believe that the soil around the trees is an area that can be used wisely and beneficially both for the plant and for themselves.

Flower beds and beds around trees

In light of the above, gardeners prefer to use tree trunk circles and sow them with either forbs, flowers, or healthy vegetables and spices. This has its advantages:

• Gradually, the untouched soil is enriched by the plants growing on it, which, having outlived their useful life, become natural nutrition for the tree.
• It is especially useful to sow tree trunk circles for additional insulation of the root system. The roots of the “neighbors” create a kind of cushion that prevents frost from penetrating into the soil.
• In summer, the lawn or flower garden protects the roots from the sun, and the tree needs less watering.
• Tree trunk circles filled with vegetation do not require digging or special weeding, which not only frees you from unnecessary work, but also helps preserve the fertile layer of the soil.

Considering all the advantages, more and more gardeners are using the soil around trees to plant beautiful or useful plants.

It is important to know: plants do not always combine with each other. Before planting something, you need to make sure that the “neighborhood” will be mutually beneficial. This is especially important for fruit trees, since their yield can be significantly reduced by satellites that will have a depressing effect on them.

Types of tree trunk circles and care for them

The design and care of the soil around the tree begins with its planting. So, when he is 2-3 years old, he is 2 m, by the age of six he reaches 3 m, and by 10-12 - 3.5-4 m. Along with the growth of the crown, its trunk circle grows, the design of which as the tree matures can change.

Soil care depends on how the soil around the seedling looks:

• If the soil remains fallow, then it needs regular weeding and light loosening after each rain or watering. In the presence of heavy soil, autumn digging should be carried out annually, while on loams this can be done once every 2-3 years.
• Although mulching is the best way to conserve moisture, improve soil quality and protect against cold, it is nevertheless considered by many gardeners to be a waste of land space. Mulching methods are described below.

• Decorated tree trunk circles are becoming increasingly popular, as they simplify their care and allow you to create beautiful flower beds, lawns or mini-vegetable gardens.

It is important to know: if you plant plants around a tree, you should take into account that its trunk should already be quite high (from 75 cm), and the branches should be raised above the ground.

Materials for decorating tree trunk circles

Long gone are the days when the design of the tree trunk circle consisted only of mulching or “bare” soil. Today, landscape designers use natural and artificial materials, flower and herb seeds for this purpose.

Summer residents are not far behind them and are improving their gardens:

• decorative stone;
• crushed stone and pebbles;
• glass;
• fabrics made of synthetic fiber, for example, agril;
• lawns;
• beds with spices;
• medicinal herbs.

Important to know: the soil around trees is effective area when used correctly. What is permissible on large landscaped lawns does not make sense on a plot of 6 acres, where every meter of land counts.

Stone decoration

The use of small pebbles or gravel to decorate tree trunks is especially popular among summer residents who cannot devote much time to their garden. These “helpers” are capable of:

• retain moisture;
• protect roots from hot sun rays and severe frosts;
• prevent weeds from growing;
• keep pests away.

This decor of the tree trunk circle frees the gardener from weeding, loosening and digging up the soil. The stones are natural material, which is durable, does not fly apart from gusts of wind and looks impressive.

Mulching

In regions where rain is rare and frost is not, summer residents use dry manure, straw, peat or leaves with reeds in the form of mulch. There are reasons for this:

• this is a natural fertilizer that is dug up in the spring and gives the roots additional nutrition;
• such mulch warms the soil;
• retains moisture well.

It is important to know: such mulching should be done not only 10-15 cm from the trunk, as many gardeners do, but throughout the entire circle around the trunk.

However, in warmer regions, an increasing number of summer residents prefer not only to mulch the circle of fruit trees, but also to decorate it. Pine cones, for example, are great for this. They look beautiful, hold heat well, transmit and retain moisture, are not blown away by the wind and do not give weeds a chance to grow through such a barrier.

In any case, the choice of which natural material to use for mulching remains with the summer resident, based on weather conditions and the needs of the tree itself.

Lawn around trees

A beautiful, well-groomed lawn always looks impressive. It is no exception when it covers the trunk circle of an apple tree, for example, or other fruit trees. Owners of large plots can afford this luxury. As the grass grows, it is cut with a lawn mower and removed. As practice has shown, a lawn in tree trunk circles is beautiful decoration, which provides the tree with additional care:

• protects from the sun;
• protects from cold;
• retains moisture well;
• The roots of the grass themselves loosen the soil, and it breathes.

It is important to know: the lawn requires constant maintenance, otherwise the garden will look overgrown and abandoned. Trees also need regular spring feeding, which is best applied directly under the roots.

Seedling of tree trunk circles with forbs

The lawn is not suitable for the owners of the coveted six acres, so the best solution is to create cultural sod, for which grass seeds are used. It is better to sow perennial grasses, for example, a cereal mixture of meadow fescue (up to 60%) and meadow bluegrass (40%).

As the grass grows, it needs to be mowed and stored under the trees, as this is the best natural fertilizer that frees the gardener from additional organic fertilizers. Such turf serves as a natural “carpet” that protects tree roots from the scorching sun, severe frosts and drought.

Flower garden

Before you start creating a flower garden, a bed with spices or medicinal herbs, you should find out which plants around the tree trunks will bring the maximum benefit to the tree. For example, the following flowers are combined with an apple tree:

• daisies;
• daffodils;
• lungwort;
• pansies;
• forget-me-nots;
• bells;
• nasturtium;
• periwinkle.

They will not only decorate the tree trunk, but will also have a beneficial effect on the yield of the tree. Among the spices and vegetable crops The apple tree gets along well with:

• dill;
• radishes;
• feather bow;
• salad;
• sorrel;
• basil

Today, cultivating tree trunks is a widespread practice, and not a tribute to fashion. When the land can not only be used wisely, refined and decorated, but also its composition can be improved without much effort, this is a chance to make your site ideal.

Winter is a difficult period for all plants in the Moscow region, and therefore, carrying out autumn work in the garden is a mandatory and very important agrotechnical event. The set of works is always selected individually for each site, depending on its organization, location, number of green spaces and their biological characteristics. Treatment of trees in the fall has its own characteristics that need to be known and taken into account in order to keep the garden in satisfactory condition.

What work is done in the garden in September

Preparation of trees for wintering begins in September, during the period of ripening and harvesting of late varieties of fruit. The grass around the tree trunks is mowed or weeded out, plant residues are removed, and fertilizers are applied. The last event is very important, as it is a good foundation for high yields for the next year. The amount of fertilizer applied is calculated according to the age of the tree.

Manure or potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are applied to each tree, which will strengthen the root system and increase the frost resistance of the above-ground part of the plant.

Fertilizer application rates:

• 2-4-summer tree– 15-25 kg of organic matter / 15-25 g of fertilizers for each year
• 5-8 year old tree – 30-50 kg of organic matter / 35-50 g of fertilizers for each year
• 9-20 year old tree – 50-80 kg of organic matter/70-100 g for each year.

In the middle or end of September (depending on the temperature), the trees are thoroughly watered. Watering is usually combined with the application of fertilizers. A ditch is dug along the contour of the crown, the depth of a spade bayonet. Fertilizers are evenly distributed over it and generously filled with water. After the moisture has been absorbed, the ditch is buried.

Garden treatment in October

October is a very important month for gardeners. By October, fruit trees shed their leaves, and it is important to carry out the necessary work before prolonged rains and muddy roads.

Cleaning up leaves and debris

The first thing to do is to clear the branches of mummified fruits, remove leaves and carrion from the tree trunks, which are an excellent wintering refuge for pests. Remove and burn. It is also necessary to clear the branches of wintering nests of goldentail and hawthorn and also set them on fire. These and subsequent actions are the most important steps in treating the garden against pests in the fall.

If the garden is well-groomed, is not damaged by the codling moth and there are no carrions, then the foliage, as an organic fertilizer and an excellent insulation material, can be left around the tree. You just need to treat the fallen leaves with a urea solution (5-7%) and postpone digging the soil under the trees until spring.

Processing trunks and crowns

The trunks should be carefully cleaned of exfoliated bark, in which cocoons of apple moths and other pests find shelter. Moreover, it is better to do this after rain. Moistened dead pieces of bark come off easier, which reduces the risk of damage to the trunk and improves the quality of processing.

Shallow damage to the wood is cleaned of dirt and fungal deposits, treated with 5% copper sulfate, soaked in a solution of garden carbolic acid (10%), and covered with garden pitch. Hollows are thoroughly cleaned, disinfected with copper sulfate (5%), dried and filled with “seals” made of crushed stone/broken brick and a mixture of sand and cement in a ratio of 1:3.

In October, the crowns and trunks of trees are sprayed with a 3-5% solution of iron sulfate (copper sulfate is best used in the spring) to prevent fungal diseases, as well as to prevent the appearance of mosses and lichens.

Digging tree trunk circles

To reduce the population of larvae overwintering in the soil (apple sawfly), dig up the soil in tree trunk circles. This must be done carefully. If the rhizosphere is highly developed, it is better to use a pitchfork rather than a shovel, since in this case Injuries to the root system are eliminated and the soil can be made looser. When cultivating between rows in the autumn, gardeners in the Moscow region should take into account that agricultural technicians recommend simply turning over the soil layer and not breaking it, since the blocky structure of the soil better retains seasonal moisture and promotes freezing of the larvae and clutches located in the soil layers.

Near the trunk, the digging depth should be only 5-6 cm, at the border of the crown projection - within the reach of a shovel/fork (18-25 cm). If peripheral root processes up to 1 cm in diameter are damaged, it’s not a big deal, they are easily restored. Larger skeletal roots should be protected from damage. Once every five years, on acidic soils, lime is added for digging (300-400 g per square meter).

Whitewashing trunks

To protect the tree bark from penetration of insects and pathogens that have not yet fallen asleep, from rodents, from temperature changes, etc., tree trunks and the lower part of skeletal branches are covered with a thick protective solution.

A solution for whitewashing trees can be purchased at a garden supermarket or prepared with your own hands using slaked lime.

To prepare a protective solution, use a bucket of water (10 l) (three options):

• 1 kg of lime and cow dung, 200 g of copper sulfate
• 1 kilogram each of clay, lime, cow dung, 250 g of copper sulfate
• 2 kg of lime, 200 g of copper sulfate, 100 of casein glue.

Repellents (repellent substances) can be added to the solutions, which include creolin, naphthalene, ethyl alcohol, and rosin. This will save the trees from hares.

To whitewash the trunks of young trees, a lower concentration of lime is used to avoid bark burns.

November – we insulate and protect trees

After the end of leaf fall, tree crowns are subject to light sanitary pruning. Only dried, damaged branches are pruned. More thorough pruning is not recommended. Firstly, the tree does not have enough time to recover from stress (and pruning is a serious stress). Secondly, a heavily cut crown is more susceptible to wind loads and retains less snow cover. Both threaten a decrease in immune resistance and, as a result, freezing. After pruning, all cuts and wounds are carefully treated with garden varnish.

In November, measures are required to protect young seedlings from rodents. Tree bark on dwarf rootstock It is especially juicy and is a real treat for them. Therefore, the harness is made tight, so that mice cannot penetrate under it. A good method of fighting rodents is to lay out tubes on tree trunk circles 20 centimeters long and 3 cm in diameter, into which the poison is placed.

Hares also pose a danger to young trees in winter time. To protect against them, the trunks are wrapped over the insulation metal mesh or plastic. Compositions with repellents (repellent substances) that are coated with trunks have proven themselves to be quite good. These substances include creolin, naphthalene, ethyl alcohol, and rosin.

The trunks of heat-loving and young trees are insulated with straw, burlap, and spruce branches. Tree trunk circles are covered with branches, leaves from healthy trees, special covering material, a mixture of sawdust treated with nitrogen and peat, and compost.

We accept orders for processing trees in the fall in Moscow and the Moscow region. We carry out both a complex of works, including boreholes, fertilization, processing of trunks, digging, spraying, insulation, etc., as well as certain types of work to prepare plants for winter. Contact phone number + 7 495 664-52-85

Features of autumn near Moscow

In recent years, winters in Central Russia have been very unpredictable and instead of heavy snow in December it can rain, and at the end of February warming is often abruptly replaced by critically low temperatures. And in order to provide the plants with a comfortable winter, the treatment of fruit trees in the fall must be carried out competently and with special care, taking into account the climatic characteristics of the region.

In the Moscow region, for example, according to recent years, winter arrives according to the following schedule:

• First frosts in the air – 20.09-20.10
• First frosts on the soil – 10.09-18.09
• Birch leaf fall – 27.09-4.10
• First snow cover – 1.11-25.11
• Stable snow cover – 30.11-30.12

As you can see, the temperature spread is quite large. And you need certain skills, knowledge, and the ability to observe the weather in order to quickly and efficiently carry out autumn work in the garden.

Winter time is a difficult period for trees.

Winds, frosts, heavy wet snow, freezing rains - the apple tree must endure all this with minimal losses.

In the fall, after the last fruits have been collected from the apple trees, the tree begins to prepare for winter.

The task of every gardener is to help him with this. If we carry out a number of comprehensive activities in the fall, then in the spring the apple orchard will thank us. Only in a well-kept garden do apple trees get sick less and bear fruit every year.

How to care for an apple tree in the fall?

There is a whole range of measures included in caring for apple trees in the fall, which must be carried out after harvesting, but before frost occurs. It includes:

• cleaning up fallen leaves and digging up the soil;
• fertilization;
• moisture-recharging irrigation;
• mulching tree trunks ;
• removal of moss and lichens, stripping of bark;
• pruning branches;
• whitewashing of trunks;
• treatment against diseases and pests;
• insulation of apple trees.

Each stage of this work is important for the apple orchard. If tree care is carried out regularly, then some points can be skipped.

If the garden has become desolate, the trees are sick, and the apples are small and sick, then we urgently get to work. Autumn is the best time for this.

Removing fallen leaves and digging up the soil

fallen foliage protects tree roots from freezing in winter, retains moisture in the soil, the bottom layer overheats and is an additional fertilizer. This is correct, but not for fruit trees.

ATTENTION: Many tiny spores of fungal diseases remain on fallen leaves. If the foliage is left under the trees, they will overwinter there just fine. When the warm and wet spring arrives, the spores will begin to multiply. The apple tree will be sick again, and we will have to spend additional measures to combat diseases.

Leaf harvesting is carried out after the end of leaf fall. Foliage is burned only if the tree was very sick this year. If the tree is healthy, or the disease was prevented at an early stage, then the collected leaves can be placed in a compost heap.

The compost ripening period is 2–3 years. The temperature in the compost heap is high, about 50°. Fungal spores die by the time the compost matures. When laying fallen leaves, you can treat them with fungicides.

Collection of leaves.

After collecting the leaves, you should dig up the soil in the tree trunk circles. The depth should be no more than 15 cm. When digging deeply, there is a risk of damaging the roots of the tree.
Why digging is necessary:

• Pest larvae hide in the soil. If the layers of earth are turned over, the pests will end up on the surface and die at sub-zero temperatures;
• seeds of some weeds lose their viability when exposed to frost;

Digging up the ground preferably when it is slightly damp. It is advisable to select the roots of perennial weeds that come across during digging.

ADVICE: Digging of tree trunk circles can be combined with autumn fertilization .

Autumn feeding

The opinion that when should you fertilize apple trees? diverge. Some people add them immediately after harvesting, in August and September. Others believe that it is better to do this after the leaves have fallen. Both opinions are correct.

Choosing the time when to fertilize It should be noted that the tree will need about three weeks to absorb fertilizers.

In order for the apple tree to receive useful substances before freezing, you need to rely on a preliminary weather forecast.

Basics autumn fertilizer– organic.

Rotted manure or compost is applied at the rate of 1-2 buckets per tree.

At the same time, add 50 grams of superphosphate and 30 grams of potassium chloride per apple tree.

IMPORTANT: Nitrogen is not applied in the fall. The amount that is in organic fertilizer, in autumn period enough. Excess nitrogen can cause the growth of weak young shoots that freeze in winter.

Fertilizing is carried out simultaneously with digging up the top layer of soil. If fertilizers are applied at the beginning of autumn, they are incorporated into the soil with a rake.

In dry weather, the tree trunk circle is shed with water so that nutrients quickly reach the roots.

Watering apple trees in autumn

Autumn watering is called moisture-recharging. Whether to carry it out or not depends on the weather. If it rains consistently well in the fall, there is no need to water. If the rains are rare and drizzling, then the apple trees need to be given water for the winter.

Watering apple trees in the fall.

Check the need for watering can be done as follows: dig a hole under the tree, 15–20 cm deep. If the soil at the bottom is wet and does not crumble when compressed, you should not water it. In other cases, watering is required.

IMPORTANT: Trunks and branches saturated with water break less from the wind, withstand the weight of snow, and their bark is resistant to frost. A connection has also been noticed - the more you water the apple tree in the fall, the more fruit ovaries there will be in the spring.

On young tree You will need 3 buckets of water, about 6 for an adult. The ground should be saturated to at least 0.5 meters. Apple trees on dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstocks require less moisture than tall trees.

Mulching

Mulching tree trunk circles keeps the soil moist longer and makes it breathable.

In addition, mulch is a fertilizer long acting. Over time, it rots, and additional nutrients enter the soil.

In winter, mulch protects the ground from differences in night and day temperatures and serves as an insulating material.

Peat, humus, sawdust, and dried mown grass are suitable for mulching. The layer should be from 10 to 15 cm.

If on site the soil is acidic, then it is better to mulch it with sawdust and chopped wood.

If alkaline soil, then peat, humus, and pine litter are suitable. Compost, straw, fallen ornamental trees foliage, suitable for any type of soil.

Removing moss and lichens, stripping bark

Mosses and lichens, which often settle on the trunks of apple trees in dense orchards or in wet weather, must be removed.

They cause harm to the tree by closing the smallest holes in the bark through which breathing occurs. This leads to drying of the branches. If severely damaged by lichens, the apple tree may die.

Useful video:

Watch the video on how to deal with moss on fruit trees:

How to save tree bark. Autumn treatment:

Remove moss and lichens after leaves fall. Well proven two ways:

• The tree trunk is treated with iron sulfate. To do this, 300 grams are diluted in 10 liters of water. The trunks, branches and ground under the tree are processed. After 10 days, the lichens die off. They are cleaned with a stiff brush. You need to spread a cloth under the apple tree so that the fallen spores do not fall on the ground.
• Moss and lichen are first cleaned from the trunk, and then carry out treatment with copper sulfate. 500 grams of powder are diluted in a bucket of water. The soil in the tree trunk circle is also sprayed.

The video will tell you how to use iron sulfate:

Once every 3–4 years in the fall it is necessary to remove old bark from the trunks, even if there are no lichens on it.

ATTENTION: Pests overwinter under the old bark, where they lay their larvae. Pathogens can also hide under the bark and wait for favorable conditions to attack the tree.

Clean the bark with a scraper or stiff brush.

The ground under the tree is covered with a cloth so that pieces of bark do not remain on the ground.

The crumbled bark particles are burned.

Pruning branches in autumn

In autumn, it is advisable to carry out only sanitary pruning of apple trees. Remove dried and diseased branches.

The cutting is carried out by slightly capturing healthy wood. This is the only way the cut will heal evenly, and the bark will not crack or bulge. The sections are cleaned and treated with garden varnish.

If the decision is made to carry out regulating pruning in autumn, then it’s better to do this when the leaves completely fall off.

About two weeks should pass from the pruning date to the onset of frost.

ADVICE: When pruning, it is important to use only sharp tools. This will allow you to get an even cut that will heal quickly. .

Whitewashing trunks

Whitewashing of trunks is carried out after removing mosses and lichens, after stripping the bark and trimming dry branches.
Whitewashing has several purposes:

• prevent cracking of trunks, which occurs when there are differences in day and night frosts;
• protects against sunburn;
• prevents pests from hiding under the bark for wintering;
• Whitened apple trees are less likely to be gnawed by mice and hares.

For whitewashing, you need to choose a dry day. If it rains immediately after the procedure, it will wash off all the paint. It takes several hours to dry.

IMPORTANT: At temperatures below 3°

whitewashing apple trees

are not carried out.

Young trees are covered with paint up to the point where the first branch begins. Mature apple trees are whitened to arm's length. It is advisable to paint the trunk and all skeletal branches.

Treatment against diseases and pests

Autumn pesticide treatment is only needed if there was a massive pest invasion in the summer, or the tree is heavily infected with fungal diseases.
In this case, the treatment is carried out after the apple tree has completely shed all its foliage.

Pest control.

If the tree was not sick this year, the bark has been stripped, treated to remove mosses and lichens, and autumn whitewashing has been carried out, then there is no need for spraying against diseases and pests.

Apple tree care in autumn, insulation

Warming of roots and trunks necessary for young apple trees up to 7 - 8 years old. It is especially important during snowless winters with a large difference in day and night temperatures.

If a layer of mulch is poured into the circle under the apple tree, it will protect the roots from frost.
An apple tree on a dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstock will require additional shelter. They will use corn stalks, straw, sunflowers. You can use non-woven covering material. In the spring it must be removed in a timely manner. .

Young trunks of apple trees are wrapped not only for insulation, but also for protection against rodents.

To do this, you can use cardboard, several layers of thick paper, burlap, and branches of coniferous trees.

Insulation should end at a height of 1 - 1.2 meters from the ground. Remove it in the spring, when the snow has completely melted.

Caring for apple trees in August - September

In August - September, the time comes for the apple orchard to take care of preserving the harvest. Strong supports are placed under heavy branches strewn with fruits. A branch broken from weight is a disaster for any apple tree. Sometimes the fracture site is so deep that the apple tree cannot be saved.

The second task of the gardener is to collect carrion every day. Apples that fall off prematurely are rarely healthy. If they are sick or damaged by pests, then they should be taken out of the area and buried.

Three weeks before the full harvest, it is necessary to water the trees at the rate of 4 - 5 buckets per tree.

The crop should be harvested on a dry day. It is advisable to use a fruit picker to collect fruit from high branches. Don't shake the tree. Falling apples are damaged and are not stored for long.

Caring for an old apple tree in autumn

If you have an old, overgrown orchard, the apples in which grow small and damaged, you need to take measures to improve its health.

Pruning to rejuvenate an old apple tree is carried out for 3 years. If you cut all the branches at once, the weakened tree will not withstand such a load and may die.

In the first year, in the fall, all dry, broken, diseased branches are cut off. You can also remove several large branches that cross each other and thicken the crown. This kind of pruning in the first year is enough to give the old tree enough strength to heal the cuts.
The next thing to do is to strip off all the old bark. In old apple trees, it happens that large pieces of bark come off. Don't be afraid to remove them. They will not take root back, and there is no benefit from them.

IMPORTANT: If after cleaning the bark becomes exposed large plot trunk, it is covered with a thin layer of garden varnish.

An old apple tree requires special care.

In addition to these procedures, old apple trees are treated with pesticides against diseases and pests, and the trunks are whitened. The soil in the tree trunk circles is cleared of weeds, dug up and fertilizers are applied.
Other measures to rejuvenate old apple trees are carried out in spring and summer.

Caring for an apple tree after harvesting in the fall

After harvesting, but before the leaves fall, it is important to know what to do with your apple tree in the fall. It is necessary to collect carrion from under the apple trees. If sick apples left hanging on the branches, they are collected and buried to prevent infection of the entire tree.

When pests invade, apple trees are sprayed with insecticides. The treatment must be carried out twice, with a difference of 10 days. The ground in the tree trunk circle is also treated with the same solution.

After picking the apples, it is necessary to weed and loosen the soil under the apple tree. If there has been no rain for a long time, then watering is required.

These the measures are enough to give the apple trees a rest from harvesting, before leaf fall, after which the trees require special care for apple trees in September.

Caring for apple trees in the Moscow region

Winters in the Moscow region have little snow, with sharp temperature fluctuations and frequent thaws with freezing rain.

In addition to the above garden care measures, additional measures will be required:

• stable supports should be placed under the main skeletal branches. This will avoid trees breaking off;
• special attention should be paid to seedlings and young trees . It is advisable to increase the insulation of trunks and tree trunk circles;
• If possible, it is better to postpone tree pruning until spring.

ADVICE: In the Moscow region, the autumn weather does not stay warm and sunny for long, frosts come early. Taking this into account, autumn activities for caring for apple trees should be carried out in a short time.

Caring for an apple tree in the fall, preparing for winter

In late autumn, in November, the gardener’s task is to throw an additional layer of snow around the apple trees:

• snow serves as additional insulation for apple trees;
• in spring the thick layer of snow will slowly melt. This will delay the flowering period, which is important in regions where return frosts often occur;
• The melting snow in the spring will water the apple trees, and the melt water will deliver the remaining nutrients from the fertilizers applied in the fall to the roots.

To mice do not make passages in the snowdrift; the snow near the apple trees should be trampled down and compacted.

During early snowfalls, knock snow flakes off the branches. This will prevent them from breaking off.

In autumn it's time to take care of your condition personal plot and garden. Creating comfortable overwintering conditions for fruit trees is the primary task of gardeners. What does garden care include in the fall? On the eve of the winter cold, after the leaves have completely fallen off, you can begin sanitary pruning, thinning, and reducing the crowns of perennial trees to 4-4.5 m. It is better to postpone detailed anti-aging pruning until spring. Why? Firstly, there are concerns about the possibility of trees freezing. Secondly, places where perennial branches of large diameter have been cut can become a source of frost damage even when treated with garden varnish or oil paint.

A thorough inspection is carried out in the fall

fruit trees

Remove dry, damaged branches. Along with the removal of diseased, dry branches, trees are cleaned of fruits that have dried on the branches, nests and egg-laying pests are burned, growth is cut out, leaf litter and root shoots are removed, where many types of aphids have accumulated.

All this must be destroyed immediately. When cuts with a diameter of more than 2 cm are formed, they are covered with garden pitch. The trunks of young trees are tied along the entire length with a special non-woven material or other available means to protect against damage by mouse-like rodents with the tying material being buried 3-5 cm into the soil.

For example, I do this. I wrap young trees with narrow bandages cut from spunbond or lutrasil. And then I start digging - the ends of the bandage are buried in the earth, as if buried.

To prevent the appearance of cracks in the bark and frost damage on the trunks of fruit-bearing trees, they are whitewashed, having previously cleaned the trunk.

On stone fruits, against diseases in the fall, you can treat them with copper preparations, for example, Bordeaux mixture, and on pome trees, with Preparation 30. Treatment with Preparation 30 can be postponed until the spring. Pass it over the swelling buds.

In the vineyard, the plants are also carefully inspected after harvest. Before sheltering for the winter, be sure to take care of keeping the plants in a healthy condition. If the presence of the leaf form of phylloxera has been noticed, it is necessary to treat the swelling buds with Preparation 30 in early spring. Unripe shoots must be cut out in the fall. If shoots affected by anthracnose are noticed, in the fall or early spring the bushes are treated with 3% Bordeaux mixture - this is one of the universal fungicides that has the longest protective effect.

In late autumn, organic, organomineral or mineral phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied - superphosphate, potassium sulfate, etc., 6-9 g of active substance per 1 m2. Fertilizers are applied into holes or wells 20-30 cm deep into the area of ​​tree trunks at a distance of 0.5-1 m outside the crown projection or under digging. One or two holes or boreholes are made on each square meter.

For orchards, long-acting fertilizers are most important. The main ones are organic and organomineral fertilizers. Nutrients from them are released slowly as they are decomposed by microorganisms. The composition of organic fertilizers (manure, composts, etc.) includes the entire set of nutrients necessary for perennial fruit and berry plants, as well as hormones, vitamins, etc. Their application affects the growth and productivity of trees for 3-5 years, while the productivity increases to 25 and even 50 percent.

Organo-mineral fertilizers include both organic (peat, humates, etc.) and mineral fertilizers.

According to the Institute of Horticulture and Viticulture, in the fourth year after applying organomineral fertilizers to a fruit-bearing apple tree (to a depth of 15-18 cm), the content in the soil of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium available to the plant at a depth of 60 cm is several times higher than their content at unfertilized areas of the garden. This is due to the fact that fertilizers applied locally during the autumn digging of the garden by 2/3 of a shovel are localized in the application zone, creating nutritional centers within the boundaries of the main distribution of the root system of perennial plants.

In addition, in areas of the garden or vegetable garden where organo-mineral fertilizers were used when digging the soil, you can also notice that the soil has become looser and crumbles well. This means improving its agrophysical properties.

When using mineral fertilizers in the fall, it must be remembered that the introduction of fast-acting types can lead to the activation of growth processes in trees against the backdrop of warm weather and a sufficient amount of moisture in the soil, which will cause serious damage in winter due to low negative air temperatures.

For autumn refilling of the garden soil in late autumn (November), as a rule, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (nitrophoska, nitroammofoska) are used, and in earlier periods (October) ammonium forms of nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate) can be applied. In this case, the dose of nitrogen fertilizers is divided: in the fall, 1/3-1/2 doses are applied; in early spring, 2-3 weeks before the trees flower, apply intra-soil fertilizing with fast-acting nitrogen fertilizers (1/2-1/3 of the main dose); in the summer, the remaining dose of nitrogen is added with irrigation water.

Autumn filling of the soil with fertilizers contributes to the formation of resistance of fruit plants to unfavorable conditions external environment, since the winter hardiness of trees is determined to a large extent by how many nutrients they accumulate in preparation for winter and to what extent these substances turn into protective substances. Required condition sufficient accumulation of reserve nutrients is the optimization of the nutritional regime of fruit plants, which allows for dynamic growth of all organs, withstand spring temperature changes, bloom profusely in winter and form a full-fledged harvest.

In connection with the upcoming winter cold, it is necessary to give trees and shrubs plenty of water - carry out moisture-recharging irrigation so that the plants can overwinter more easily.

After the leaves fall, that is, when the fruit trees and shrubs “sleep” and their active life activity ceases, they begin the main cultivation of the soil in the garden - digging. It is necessary to dig up the soil in the garden to maintain an optimal fine-lumpy structure by mixing - the top layer of soil (with the destroyed structure) moves down. At the same time, the lower layer moves to the surface.

Deep digging of the soil in the fall creates conditions for the formation of a deep-lying root system. This helps to increase its resistance to sharp drops in temperature in winter and significant increases in summer. The approximate depth of digging the soil in the fall, especially in a young garden, should be up to 30 cm - per spade bayonet, and closer to the trunk - 10-15 cm.

When writing, materials from the newspaper “Niva Kubani” were used - 2014 - No. 39.

• 1 Features of caring for cherries in the fall and preparing for winter: general tips and recommendations
• 2 Pruning cherries in autumn
• 3 Sheltering cherries for the winter
• 4 Features of preparing cherries for winter in different areas
  • 4.1 In the Moscow region
  • 4.2 In the Volga region
  • 4.3 In the Urals and Siberia
• 5 Typical mistakes in caring for cherries in the fall and preparing for winter
• 6 Varieties of cherries. Early, late, winter-hardy, large-fruited varieties
  • 6.1 Yellow cherry. Varieties
  • 6.2 Cherries for the Moscow region. Varieties
  • 6.3 Leningrad cherry
  • 6.4 Revna
  • 6.5 Late cherry varieties
  • 6.6 Planting cherries
  • 6.7 Site preparation
  • 6.8 Caring for cherries in the Moscow region
  • 6.9 Preparing for winter
  • 6.10 Pests and diseases
• 7 Fatezh (cherry) in the Moscow region
• 8 Planting and caring for cherries
• 9 Planting cherries
  • 9.1 Planting cherries
  • 9.2 Cherry care
  • 9.3 Cherry varieties
    • 9.3.1 Lisa, Lviv
    • 9.3.2 Elena, Krasnoyarsk
    • 9.3.3 Svetlana, Russia
    • 9.3.4 Elena, Krasnoyarsk
    • 9.3.5 Elvira Petrova
    • 9.3.6 Alexander, Pavlovsky Posad
    • 9.3.7 France Khasanovich Khalilov, Bugulma
    • 9.3.8 Yulia Frolova (Isakova), Cheboksary
    • 9.3.9 Alexander, Chekhov
    • 9.3.10 Sergey Petrov
    • 9.3.11 Vladimir Slobodyanyuk
• 10 When is it better to plant: spring or autumn?
  • 10.1 Landing in Siberia
  • 10.2 Advantages and disadvantages of autumn planting
• 11 Choosing a landing site
  • 11.1 Winds and drafts are unacceptable
  • 11.2 How to prevent freezing
• 12 Selection of planting material
• 13 Rules for autumn planting
  • 13.1 Pruning after planting
• 14 Video with a detailed description of the process of planting cherries at the end of August

Features of caring for cherries in the fall and preparing for winter: general tips and recommendations

Many inexperienced gardeners are of the opinion that if a plant bears fruit, then it is not worth caring for it.

In autumn the first action should be to loosen the soil near the plant trunk. The growth and active development of the tree and the formation of large fruits depend on the quality of the soil.

The soil is periodically loosened as necessary. To ensure that the roots receive a sufficient amount of nutrient moisture and oxygen, the earth is dug 8-10 cm deep. If the area is saturated with heavy dense soil, then the digging depth increases to 10-15 cm.

Worth knowing! The plant should also be fertilized on time in the autumn. If you feed too early in the fall, the nutrients will begin to decompose and be absorbed by the root system. This process will provoke active growth of cherry branches, which will postpone the period of withdrawal to wintering. Therefore, fertilizing should be done when the air temperature begins to approach 0 C.

It is necessary to water the cherry. If the weather conditions are not favorable with rain, the soil dries out, then the plant must be irrigated with moisture before switching to winter.

Before frost, it is recommended to thoroughly water or add the required amount of nutritious moisture using buckets, most often in the amount of 10 buckets. This amount will saturate the soil around the trunk for 1-15 meters. Then in winter the soil will not freeze, and with it the roots of the plant.

The last stage before preparing for wintering is applying fertilizers.. The following scheme should be followed:

• 1-4 years – organic fertilizers up to 20 kg, phosphorus and potassium – 100 g;
• 5 years and older - organic fertilizers - up to 50 kg per plant, phosphorus - 400 g, potassium - 150 g.

Improper feeding negatively affects the development and fruiting of cherries. In this matter, the main thing is not to overdo it. In the autumn period you should absolutely refuse nitrogen fertilizing. You can lead the plant to abundant growth of branches, which will lead to freezing of the young shoots.

Pruning cherries in autumn

Trimming young seedling cherry blossom is held every year. Timely pruning allows you to get a high-quality harvest. At the same time, fruiting increases and immunity is strengthened. In addition, by removing unnecessary and diseased branches, the old seedling is rejuvenated and, as a result, its life is extended.

Many gardeners ask the question: “When is it better to prune cherries - in spring or autumn?” Removal of part of the growth must be done both in the spring and autumn months.

In the spring, at the beginning of March, sanitary cleaning of branches that are broken or frozen over the winter months is carried out. In April, the formation of the crown is required, so all excess young shoots are cut off, as well as those that thicken and grow inward, interfering with the skeletal branches.

Why is cherry pruning done in the fall?

• Formation of strong skeletal branches.
• Improvement of fruit-bearing crops.
• Protection from diseases and harmful insects and their larvae.
• Thinning of young shoots, which does not allow the fruits to get enough sunlight.
• Keeping the crown from overgrowing.
• Uniform distribution of branches along the entire perimeter of the trunk.

Attention! Autumn pruning of cherries should be carried out after all the foliage has fallen from the branches. Do not delay the procedure. It will be completed before the first days of October. This is necessary so that the resulting wounds have time to heal before the onset of the first frost.

Removal of unnecessary shoots is carried out either by shortening or by thinning out excess branches. According to the last method All incorrectly grown branches are removed. They should grow at an angle of 40-500 to the outer bud. All internal eyes are removed so as not to thicken the skeletal structure with unnecessary branches.

Shortening method requires the removal of 1/3 of the annual vines that have grown to a length of more than 60 cm. If the tree has not been pruned for a long period of time and is overgrown, then it is recommended to use not one of the two methods, but two simultaneously.

Important point, it is necessary to prune without harming the plant. Have time to complete all procedures for removing and forming the crown before the cold weather sets in.

When cutting cuttings, use pruning shears, saws, and a garden knife.. All tools need to be sharpened carefully. This way they cause less damage to the bark of the fruit crop.

Garden varnish is used to quickly heal wounds. It allows you not to lose nutritious sap and prevents pests from entering the tree.

Video: how to properly prune cherries in the fall

The first autumn pruning is carried out immediately after planting the young cuttings. Thus, the height of the seedling is reduced to almost 1 meter in height. This will allow you not to waste energy on additional branches, but to direct all the juices to high-quality rooting. Further removal is not advisable; there is a possibility that the plant will not have time to take root and will die during the first frost.

The picture below shows diagrams for pruning cherries as the tree matures.

Until the cherry tree is 5 years old, all its branches should not exceed 50 cm. And shoots that do not affect the overall crown of the tree are cut to 30 cm. The best distance between the formed skeletal trees should not exceed 30 cm. The main thing is during removal The growth eyes of branches must not be removed. Otherwise, you can cause the entire branch to dry out.

Scheme for pruning young cherries

If the plant is old, pruning is carried out for the purpose of rejuvenation. This procedure is carried out once every 5 years. To do this, remove all old and dried branches. You should also remove all old knots that are more than 6 years old. All cuts must be covered with garden varnish.

Video: pruning old cherries in autumn or spring

Thus, autumn pruning is not only necessary, it also important for future fruiting and crown formation. In addition, old cherries tolerate pruning more easily in September than in March. But it is recommended to carry out all procedures 3 weeks before the onset of cold weather, so that the cuts have time to tighten.

Video: pruning cherries in autumn for beginners

Sheltering cherries for the winter

In most cases, cherries do not like strong drops in air temperatures. Old trees are less sensitive to frost. While young animals often suffer from frost. Therefore, young cherry seedlings in any region must be covered for the winter. This will protect the young trees from freezing out of some of the branches or from breaking under the weight of fallen snow.

Important! Before you begin to cover the cherry tree for the winter, the soil under it is loosened, watered well and fertilized, the old bark is cut off and lichen formations are removed. Only after all procedures can you begin insulation.

Preparing cherries for wintering includes the following points:

1. The ground around the cherry trunk is covered with natural material– peat, pine spruce branches or sawdust. The coverage area is the width of the tree's crown - as far as the branches extend, the root system grows in breadth.
2. Rodent protection in place– pegs are driven in next to the seedling, level with the plant. The crown is lightly tied with branches, giving the shape of a column.
3. Covering material– covering material is wound around the driven stakes so that a kind of cylinder is formed. The plant is completely enveloped from the top to the very base so that animals cannot get inside.
   Peat or earth is poured from below onto the base of the covering material so that it cannot be lifted from the ground.
4. Fallen snow– after the first snowfall, additional snow is placed on the base of the covering material. It will serve as additional insulation.

The main thing is that the wrapped tree is packed in such a way that there is a sufficient amount of air inside. Then the plant is not afraid of any frost. Otherwise, if the top material is strongly pulled together, it can provoke a fight between the foliage and bark. The latter will lead to a fungal disease.

Features of preparing cherries for winter in different areas

Cherry is a heat-loving crop; when planting it in different regions of Russia, you need to know how to care for it and prepare it for winter.

In outskirts of Moscow

In the Moscow region, in order to prepare cherries for winter, you should not feed them excessively. Otherwise, it will begin to actively increase the number of young shoots, which will delay the moment of retirement. The latter aspect will provoke freezing of most of the young animals.

The last nitrogen-containing fertilizing is done in April - early May. After this, the plant is fertilized only with phosphorus.

The trunks are subject to whitewashing, and the root trunk is covered with a rich layer of spruce branches. You don’t have to use a shelter, but cover the seedling with snow during heavy snowfall. If in the spring there is slightly frozen bark, you can carefully remove it with a sharp garden knife and cover the wound with varnish.

In the Volga region

In the Volga region, insulation of cherries is carried out using covering material, so that rodents do not damage the lower part of the trunk. In spring, with the first rays of the sun, the cover is removed so as not to provoke condensation material to settle on the walls.

In the Urals and Siberia

Preparing cherries for winter and insulating them in the Urals and Siberia is carried out using the same method. These areas are similar in their strong temperature drop. If you do not cover the tree, then only those places that were under the thickness of snow will remain alive.

This helps to press it to the soil in the winter and return it to its original state in the spring. In winter, the leaning tree is covered with a dense layer of straw or spruce branches, and in the spring the embankment is removed. Only in this state will the plant be completely preserved.

Typical mistakes in caring for cherries in the fall and preparing for winter

If the crop is not properly cared for, the plant will not bear fruit well. large berries, and ultimately may even die.

Important! Autumn care of cherries is necessary primarily for farmers. If the procedure is not followed, then you may not only not wait for the fruits, but also lose the plant altogether.

Before wintering, it is recommended to carry out loosening, complex fertilizer and correct pruning cherries. The last point should be carried out separately for young seedlings and for aged trees. Each period requires its own approach to the event.

Cherry varieties. Early, late, winter-hardy, large-fruited varieties

​Similar articles​

​Poleznaia informationaciia. -spasibo.Skajite pojaluista? Posadil chereshniu,po nevedeniiu, na prigorke i na severnoi side.Poshel 4! god. Prochital Vshu informaciiu i reshil peresadit ponije i za dom. Xotelos-bi znat Vashe mnenie-poluchitsia? S uvajeniem.​

Yellow cherry. Varieties

​In favorable conditions, tall varieties of cherry trees reach 20 m in height and are capable of producing up to 50 kg of incomparably tasty berries per season. Cherries begin to please us with a harvest in the 4th–7th year after planting (depending on the variety), but only in the 10th year does it enter the phase of full fruiting. ​​Proper planting of cherry seedlings

​In addition, due to rapid growth Young trees need annual pruning. Remove all branches directed into the crown, as well as growth on the trunk and from the roots. The cuts must be very neat and must be made with a well-sharpened tool. After pruning, be sure to treat the cut areas with garden varnish. Inaccurate pruning can cause gum formation.​

Cherries for the Moscow region. Varieties

The nutrient solution is poured into the circle around the trunk, which is cleared of weeds. Fertilizers are not poured to the very base, but distributed around the perimeter, since old roots are not able to absorb useful substances.​

• There is a cherry variety called “Fatezh”. This low tree grows up to three meters and produces a bountiful harvest of fragrant and tasty berries. The crop begins to bear fruit from the fifth year of life. A tree older than ten years can produce more than 40 kilograms of berries per season. This plant is also an excellent decorative element in the country. Fatezh cherry is more suitable for the capital of Russia and the Moscow region. Before you start planting cherries, it is recommended to find out at what depth the groundwater lies. Stagnation of water in the soil is unacceptable for this tree. Choose a place on a hill, since cold air often accumulates in lowlands, and cherries are heat-loving plants. And one more point must be taken into account. This tree loves a lot of light, so try to choose a place where no buildings will block it.​

• ​Pruning of young shoots on this tree should be done annually in spring. Sometimes branches have to be tied up to avoid them breaking off.
• ​Not as often as we would like, you can find sweet cherries in Russian gardens. And although there are quite numerous varieties of cherries, not all are suitable for growing in the Moscow region. In the picture, the root collar is in the ground, but in the recommendations for planting above the surface. Where is it correct?n​

• The cherry tree of the “Orlovskaya pink” variety reaches a height of 4.5 m, has a widely spreading crown and bears fruit well already from the 6th year after planting. A mature tree produces up to 35 kg of small-sized but unusually sweet berries. The delicate pink fruits of the Orlovskaya pink cherry variety have a sweet and sour dessert taste and are most valued in homemade preparations.​​There are more than three thousand varieties of cherries all over the world, which are divided into two main types: bigarro and guinea. Bigarro cherries have a rather dense consistency, while guineas have softer fruits. ​

Leningrad cherry

Gum flow is a disease of predominantly woody plants, characterized by the release of a viscous, sticky liquid on the trunks, branches, fruits, and sometimes leaves of trees; same as gommosis.​

Every spring Fatezh (cherry) is pruned before the buds swell. In this case, broken and dried branches are removed, and the cuts are treated with a special garden varnish.​

​This crop does not tolerate weeds, so it is necessary to constantly clean the top layer of soil around the trunk. The tree trunk space freed from weeds in the second year of cultivation should be at least one meter in diameter. Over the next three years it is expanded to half a meter. In this case, it is necessary to mulch the soil annually.

​The growing season can last more than eight months. Based on this, it is recommended to plant seedlings in early spring. This will give the cherries time to take root and adapt before the onset of cold weather. But the place itself should be prepared in advance. Starting in the fall, they dig holes, the bottom of which is loosened. Humus is poured there in the amount of two buckets and left to overwinter. At the very beginning of spring, a mixture of superphosphates and wood ash and mix it with the humus already lying there. Now the hole is ready for planting a tree.​

Revna

The fruits of this variety make excellent juices, jams, compotes and even wine. The berries also performed well when frozen.​

​has a wide-pyramidal crown. This variety is able to survive at temperatures of minus thirty-two degrees. It is practically not subject to fungal diseases. The fruits ripen early, already in mid-June. The bone is difficult to separate from the pulp.

Late varieties of cherries

​Although we must give credit to the breeders: they have done a great job lately and have bred a lot different varieties for the middle zone. In this article you will find a description of cherry varieties, as well as some features of the care and planting of this plant. And, of course, possible plant ailments and ways to combat them.​

• ​Thank you for the article. Tell me, we have moved to a new place and would like to transport 6-7 year old cherries. Is this possible and how to do it? Before purchasing seedlings, check with the seller whether the cherry varieties you have chosen are suitable for growing in your region. It is better to buy 2-3 year old seedlings - they adapt faster to a new place. ​
• ​I present to you three popular varieties of cherries, which belong to the bigarro type, the most common in Russia. - conductor; 2 – skeletal branches; 3 – standard; 4 – earth taken out from above; 5 – earth taken out from below and mixed with soil mixture; 6 – skeletal roots; 7 – fibrous roots; 8 – root collar

Planting cherries

​When the tree begins to bear fruit, cut the leader to a side branch at a height of 3-3.5 m. Pruning a leader to a side branch is the removal of a vertically growing shoot at the point of branching with a branch growing more gently (angle more than 45 degrees).​

Preparing the site

​When planting cherries, choosing the right location is very important. Slopes facing south and other bright places on the site protected from north winds are preferred. Swampy places and lowlands with stagnant cold air are not suitable for planting cherries.​

Caring for cherries in the Moscow region

Fatezh is a cherry tree that does not require abundant watering. It is enough to moisturize it well three to four times a season. Before watering, loosen the tree trunk circle and fertilize the soil. Abundant spraying of cherries with honey solution during the flowering period will create conditions for effective pollination. Thanks to this, productivity will increase.

Any cherries for the Moscow region, the varieties of which were considered, require a caring attitude. Cherries should be properly cared for, and then they will delight you with an abundant and high-quality harvest. It is important to water the tree in a timely manner. The first watering is carried out in early spring even before flowering begins. Once the tree is covered with flowers, you should not water it, as this may cause the entire ovary to fall off. In summer, water the cherries as the soil dries out. The last watering is carried out during autumn digging.

Preparing for winter

The cherry variety Revna has medium-sized round fruits of burgundy color. The pulp is quite dense and has a dark red tint. The bone is separated from the pulp without difficulty.​

Pests and diseases

​Variety Fatezh.​

According to the color of the fruit, cherries are divided into black, pink, orange and yellow. Let's consider those representatives of the plant that belong to the yellow cherry group. There will be two varieties.​

​I planted a Revna cherry seedling this year in April. But it’s already July, and it doesn’t grow and doesn’t produce branches, only a few leaves on the trunk. I fed it and watered it, but to little avail. Tell me what to do with it? It doesn’t seem to die, but it doesn’t grow either. Planted in a flowerbed, like all the other trees in the garden. Nearby, the 3-year-old Ovstuzhenka is doing well and even bore several fruits this year. Please advise, good people: what to do with it???​

A cherry tree can live in one place for up to a hundred years (with good care, of course). So, plant it boldly. A tasty and unusually healing berry will delight both your children and grandchildren))​

Cherry variety Fatezh

Fatezh (cherry) in the Moscow region

​The holes are filled one third with soil mixture: earth - 2 buckets, ammonium sulfate - 2 kg, superphosphate - 3 kg, wood ash - 1 liter, potassium fertilizer - 1 kg, undiluted manure - 35 kg (manure can be replaced with humus). If the soil at your dacha is clayey, then pour a couple of buckets of sand into the bottom of the hole; if it’s sandy, add a couple of buckets of clay. And only then add the soil mixture into the hole.

​What is duke and how to grow it​

Cherries are planted in a planting hole measuring at least 70 x 70 x 60 cm. Trees are planted at a distance of 3-5 m. Otherwise, the spreading crown will eventually begin to shade other plants.

​Feed the plant in September with phosphorus fertilizers. This feeding will help you survive frosts and increase the amount of sugar in the berries. Every three years it is necessary to dig up the soil around the trunk with the addition of organic fertilizers. As such, you can use chicken droppings or manure in a rotted or fermented state. They are not allowed to be used fresh.​

The fruits are very juicy and sweet. This cherry tree begins to bear fruit after five years of its life. It blooms in the second half of May, and berries should be expected in early July. This tree can pollinate itself. It grows at high speed, the fruits are formed on bouquet-type branches. The leaves have an oval shape and a short petiole. The ripening fruits deserve the highest marks for the quality of not only their appearance, but also their taste. They tolerate long-term transportation well.

Its feature is its spherical crown. The branches forming this crown are drooping. It is resistant not only to frost, but also to fungal diseases. Requires proximity to other varieties, since it is self-sterile. The stone is small in size and is easily separated from the pulp.​

The yellow Drogan cherry belongs to the bigarro group. It is a mid-season plant, has good resistance to cold and frost, and can adapt well even in northern regions. The fruits of this tree are shaped like a heart.​

​It seems you planted it too deep, right up to the graft. But it is necessary that the root collar (where the trunk ends and the root system begins) is flush with the surface of the earth. When planted deep, the plants look exactly like this, but after 3-5 years they die. The trunk is not adapted to “live” in the ground. Carefully dig around the trunk with a shovel, with your hands, until you reach the very top root. Found it? Here it should be covered with earth only 1-3 cm.​

​And in English language there is no division between cherry and sweet cherry) For just one word cherry)​

​Before planting, strengthen the support post for the seedling at the bottom of the hole. Make a mound in the center of the hole and place the seedling on it, carefully straightening its roots. Then attach the seedling to the support and gradually add soil, compacting it lightly. The root collar of the seedling should rise above the soil by about 3-5 cm. At the end of planting, all that remains is to water the cherry seedlings generously and mulch the ground (you can use humus, fallen leaves or peat).​

Planting and caring for cherries

​What to plant in the shade under trees​

​For the planting hole, you need to mix the topsoil with three buckets of rotted manure or compost and a liter jar of wood ash (mineral fertilizers can also be used). If the soil is clayey, add a bucket of river sand, if it is light sandy, pour two buckets of clay into the bottom of the hole, and then the fertile mixture. It wouldn’t hurt to add 2-3 buckets of crushed limestone to the hole. This will reduce the acidity of the soil and provide air access to the roots.​

Fatezh (cherry) loves sunny places and fertile soil. The plant does not tolerate clay and deep sandy soil and does not like windy places. It is better to plant cherries at least two or three different varieties that have the same flowering time. This is due to the fact that the plant is cross-pollinated. An excellent option would be to plant Fatezh cherries next to cherries, since cherry pollen will perfectly pollinate cherry flowers.​

​In addition to digging up the soil and applying fertilizers in the fall, you should take care of protecting the tree trunk from rodents in the winter. To do this, it is tied with burlap and spruce on top. This method also provides additional protection against frost.​

​It’s so nice to go out into the garden after eating all the cherries and find them there again. And this is quite possible if you plant cherries belonging to late varieties on your plot. Let's look at some representatives.​​Rechitsa​

The flesh has a yellow tint. The features of this variety include the tree’s large height and spreading crown. The skin of the fruit is very thin, which, of course, causes certain difficulties during transportation or freezing. The seed is inseparable from the fruit pulp. The harvest is quite high, and the fruits themselves do not fall off. This variety requires the presence of other cherries in the garden, since it is not self-pollinating.​

When planting, cherry trees need to be pruned very much - literally by a third or even half. With the first seedling I made a fatal mistake - I didn’t prune it. A long whip without lateral branches waved. The next spring I corrected the mistake - I cut it in half... side branches appeared and a competitor to the leader. The competitor was removed, the lowest side branches were removed, the rest, which had grown more than 40-50 cm, were pruned. Now the tree looks decent. If I planted a cherry seedling again, I wouldn’t make the past mistakes. Sweet cherries require very strong pruning immediately upon planting.​

​That is, you send your husband to the store and say: “Darling, buy half a kilo of cherry,” he brings sour cherries, and you are indignant that you wanted sweet cherry))​

​The Fatezh cherry variety is a short tree (up to 3 m) that produces a bountiful harvest of tasty and aromatic berries. It begins to bear fruit in the 5th year of life. An adult tree (from 10 years old) is capable of producing more than 40 kg of fruit per season, and the graceful drooping crown of “Fatezh” perfectly decorates the dacha. The Fatezh cherry variety is more suitable for Moscow and the Moscow region. ​

Cherry trees do not tolerate weeds, so always carefully clear the ground around its trunk of them. In the second year after planting, the diameter of the tree trunk circle, freed from weeds, should be at least 1 m. Over the next three years, it is expanded by 30-50 cm, not forgetting to mulch the soil annually.​

​Did you know that Chekhov’s famous play is known abroad as “The Cherry Orchard”? And all because the words “cherry” and “cherry” have identical translations in many European languages. For example, in English they are translated as – cherry, in French – cerise. And there is no contradiction here, because cherries and cherries are very closely related - both of these crops belong to the Rosaceae family.​

Having filled the hole 2/3, a seedling is installed in it, carefully adding fertile soil to the roots and compacting it. The support to which it is tied should be located on the south side - this will allow the tree to avoid sunburn. After planting, the cherries are watered and the soil is sprinkled with peat, compost or mowed grass.

supersadovnik.ru

Planting cherries

​Seedlings in the southern regions are planted in the fall. Cherries in the Moscow region and more northern regions are planted in the spring.​

The biggest pest of berries is birds. They are the ones who can destroy half the entire crop in less than an hour. The best salvation from this scourge is to use nets to cover the crown.​

Planting cherries

​Cherry Bryanochka​

​has a short stature and a pyramid-shaped crown. Resistant to diseases and frosts. It has sweet dark red fruits and a well-separable seed.​

Homestead yellow cherries are considered early ripening and love black soil. This is an excellent cherry for the Moscow region. Varieties of this type are self-pollinating. The fruits appear only in the sixth year, but the yields are quite high. This variety ripens early, but despite all this, it is not at all afraid of frost. Constantly growing shoots cause a lot of trouble. The crown is very lush. The last fact is especially important for those who do not have too much garden space.​

​I completely agree with the comment. The main mistake is that the grafting site was mistaken for the root collar. After replanting, placing the root collar (transition from trunk to root) at ground level, it is necessary to trim the trunk, but no more than 1/3.​

​Yes, I myself was very surprised when I found out about this))​​Cherry variety Iput​

Three waterings per season are enough for cherries. Before watering, the tree trunk circle is loosened, fertilizer is applied and only then watered abundantly. And if you regularly spray cherries with a honey solution during the flowering period, you can achieve unusually effective pollination, because honey will attract bees. And the better the pollination, the correspondingly higher the yield. Here's a little trick!​

Of course, close kinship and linguistic subtleties are not able to magically turn sour cherries into sweet cherries. But it has now become possible to grow heat-loving cherry trees in the gardens of central Russia. Russian breeders have worked hard and developed several winter-hardy varieties of cherries that bear fruit well even in harsh climates. So choose the one that suits you from the list below and get ready to plant!​

Cherry care

It must be remembered that cherries are self-sterile. For normal pollination, it is necessary to plant cherry trees of different varieties nearby. The second option is to try grafting several different cuttings onto a winter-hardy variety. Among the best pollinators are varieties

​When preparing the soil for planting trees, you need to know that the horizontal roots of an adult plant are located at a depth of 30-80 centimeters, while the vertical ones go deep to a distance of more than two meters. Therefore, before planting trees, it is necessary, in addition to holes, to carry out plantation plowing at the site of planting the garden.​

​Among the insects on trunks and leaves you can find aphids. In this case, the cherries should be treated with insecticides.

​has large dark red fruits that ripen no earlier than mid-July. The yield of the variety is very high, and the fruits look simply wonderful and are very tasty. It is resistant to frost and various fungal diseases. The big disadvantage of this variety is the inability to self-pollinate.​

​The cherry varieties considered, of course, are not all from the list of northern options. But all of them have already been tested by experienced gardeners.​

Cherry varieties

​Which varieties are the best for the middle zone? The answer is clear - those that are most resistant to frost. Although this does not mean at all that the varieties of cherries suitable for our area are inferior in taste to the southern varieties. Let's look at some of them. All of them are the best varieties of cherries for the Moscow region.​

​Try trimming. After pruning, any fruit tree begins to bloom and bear fruit.​

​I wouldn’t really trust seedling sellers; not all of them are honest and respectable. Since he has put them up for sale, he will assure that this is the most suitable variety for this region. Last year I bought gatsaniya seedlings, and in front of me they asked the seller if they were annual or perennial. He categorically stated that it was annual. What a shame to lie to people like that!​

​ ​ Cherries are watered rarely, but abundantly - three times a season. In the meantime, while the young trees are growing, temporary beds can be organized between them. Next to the cherry tree, it is advisable to plant mustard with phacelia - excellent honey plants that are very attractive to bees.​

​Cherry trees love sunny places and well-fertile soils, but do not tolerate clay soil, deep sandstones and really don’t like windy places. Cherry is a cross-pollinated plant, so plant two or three different varieties (at least) with the same flowering time in your dacha. It will benefit from the proximity to cherries, because cherry pollen also perfectly pollinates cherry flowers. ​

​Revna, Bryanskaya Rozovaya, Iput, Raditsa, Tyutchevka.​ The depth of the pits for seedlings should be at least 80 centimeters, and the width - 1 m. The trees are planted at a distance of about five meters from each other. You should not skimp on space, since with a small planting distance, the crowns of mature trees will shade and crush other plants.​

Of the fungal diseases, this plant is most often affected by two. One of them is moniliosis. As a result of this disease, the leaves fall off too early, the flowers and twigs dry out, and the berries shrivel.​

​Michurinskaya late​ The Leningradskaya cherry variety is distinguished by large, almost black fruits. They are shaped like a heart. The berries are sweet to taste, but there is a slightly perceptible bitterness. Harvest should be expected in mid-July. The berries ripen unevenly, due to which they remain on the tree until mid-September. The pulp is very juicy.​

​Bryansk pink cherry

​if the hole for a tree is at least 80x80x80 cm then it will survive, if less then it’s problematic

​And try to buy from nurseries, where all the seedlings have tags attached. Less chance of making mistakes)​

Lisa, Lviv

Cherry variety "Iput" is a medium-sized tree - 4-5 m in height, with a pyramidal lush crown. It begins to bear fruit at 4-5 years of age, and an adult tree, under favorable conditions, can produce the maximum yield for cherries - 50 kg from each tree. Large, almost black “Iput” berries, filled with juicy, tasty pulp, grow in small “bunches”, so they are very convenient to collect. The Iput cherry variety is suitable for growing in gardens in central-eastern Russia. ​

Elena, Krasnoyarsk

​Sowing various plants between the rows is not only beneficial for young trees, but also protects them from the winter cold. To feed cherry trees, use slurry (1:8), diluted complex fertilizer for fruit and berry trees (100 g per bucket of water) and aqueous infusion of ash (1:10). Moreover, the nutrient solution is watered around the trunk circle, cleared of weeds. But fertilizers are not applied right under the trunk, since the near-trunk roots of the cherry tree are practically unable to absorb useful substances.​

Svetlana, Russia

In the northern regions, cherry seedlings are planted in the spring, in the southern regions - in the fall. When preparing the soil, it should be taken into account that the horizontal rhizomes of an adult plant lie at a level of 30-80 cm from the soil surface, and the vertical ones are buried more than 2 m. Therefore, it is advisable not just to dig planting holes, but to do plantation plowing where you plan to plant the cherry tree. garden

Elena, Krasnoyarsk

​Even during the flowering period, you can try spraying the cherries with honey solution in the morning (1 tablespoon per liter of water). This will attract bees and improve pollination. If frosts are expected during the flowering period, the day before try to spray the crown with a solution of an ovary formation stimulator or at least plain water - this will increase the stability of the flowers.​

Elvira Petrova

​Sowing other various crops between the rows is desirable for cherries, because in winter they will protect the southerner from the cold.​

Alexander, Pavlovsky Posad

​The second most common fungal disease is coccomycosis. It spreads mostly to the leaves, which become covered with red spots, gradually increasing in size and merging into one whole. If the tree is damaged, then fungicidal preparations will come to your aid. In this case, all diseased and affected branches and leaves should be destroyed.

France Khasanovich Khalilov, Bugulma

​The fruits are medium in size, but very beautiful in shape. Their color is dark red, the flesh is juicy and sweet. The fruits contain a large amount of vitamin C. The stone separates from the pulp very well. The harvest can be expected to ripen towards the end of July. The yield of the variety is not only high, but also regular. But cherries begin to bear fruit only in the sixth year of their life. The berries are well suited for almost any preservation. Does not self-pollinate, is resistant to frost and drought.​

Yulia Frolova (Isakova), Cheboksary

​Trees should be classified as medium-sized. Their crown is dense and quite spreading. The first harvest can be expected in the third year. There are usually a lot of berries on the tree. Representatives of this variety are resistant to frost and are not afraid of drought. And also the level of resistance to various diseases is considered quite high.​

Alexander, Chekhov

​is a fairly tall tree that practically does not need pruning. The branches of this plant, as well as the flower buds, are able to withstand cold and frost. Requires the presence of other cherries in the garden for pollination to occur. The fruits are pink and very sweet.​

Sergey Petrov

​Thank you very much for the article. Useful information for me as a young gardener.​

Vladimir Slobodyanyuk

​There is a special definition for cherries in English - sour cherry (sour cherries)​

​Cherry variety Orlovskaya pink​

​In early spring, an additional 60-80 g of carbamide (urea) should be added to each tree. Every spring, before the buds swell, cherries should be pruned and dried and broken branches should be removed, covering the cuts with garden varnish (a special remedy for treating tree wounds). The trunks of cherry trees must be whitened in early spring and late autumn to avoid cracking of the bark.​

The size of the planting hole should be at least 80 cm deep and about 1 m wide. Seedlings should be planted at a distance of 3-5 m from each other. It is better not to skimp on space and provide the trees with space, otherwise the spreading crown of an adult tree will shade and suppress other plants.​

Cherries need to be fed. Young trees - 2 times per season (in May and June), adults, older than three years - 3-4 times. Feed the cherries with slurry (1:6) with the addition of a tablespoon of complex fertilizer per bucket of water. During the last feeding after harvesting, you should not use nitrogen fertilizers. Ash is well suited for fertilizing. In the spring you need to add urea.

Fatezh (cherry) is fed with slurry (1/8), a complex diluted fertilizer intended for fruit and berry crops (one hundred grams per bucket of water), as well as an infusion of ash on water (1/10).

​This article discussed the best varieties cherry for growing in central Russia. By following the rules regarding planting and caring for the plant, you will be able to achieve a high-quality and abundant harvest of these sweet and aromatic berries. Proper preparation for the winter period, as well as protection from pests and disease prevention will ensure your garden has healthy cherry plants. long years. And by placing varieties that ripen at different times in your garden, you will provide yourself with a delicious dessert for the entire summer period and jam preparations for the whole year.​

There is probably no person who would be indifferent to juicy and sweet cherries. Every self-respecting gardener considers it a matter of honor to plant at least one cherry tree on his plot. But when is it better to plant it - in autumn or spring? Let's consider this issue in more detail.

When is it better to plant: spring or autumn?

Cherries are planted in cold regions in the spring, when the buds swell.

Cherry is a fairly heat-loving garden crop. For this reason, experts advise planting the tree in the spring, but only if the cherry tree will grow in regions with a cold climate.

For the south of Russia and the Central region is quite acceptable autumn planting .

When deciding to plant a fruit tree in the fall, it is very important to comply with the timing of this procedure. So, this must be done before the top layer of soil has time to freeze.

The optimal time for planting cherries is from mid-September to the end of October.

This period of time is the most suitable, since trees in the dormant stage will direct all their vital forces to adapt to a new place, and not to laying buds.

If the seedling was purchased too late and did not have time to plant it permanent place until the end of October, then it is buried in the ground for the winter and planted with the arrival of spring.

The seedlings are buried in a hole 40–50 cm deep.

Landing in Siberia

Gardeners must remember that for Siberia and other regions of the Russian Federation with a harsh climate, suitable only spring planting cherries, which is held in late April - early May.

Otherwise, the garden crop will not survive the cold winter and, without having time to gain strength, will freeze.

Advantages and disadvantages of autumn planting

Autumn planting of cherries can be done right up to frost.

Fall planting is good for many reasons. Let's look at some of them:

• Gardeners who are unsure about their choice have the opportunity to examine mature trees and taste popular cherry varieties.
• In autumn, seedlings are much cheaper than in spring.
• As is known, In the fall, rainy weather sets in, and gardeners do not need to constantly moisten the soil near the tree.
• During the fall and winter, the seedlings have time to strengthen and grow new roots, thanks to which they will begin to grow and develop faster than trees planted in the spring.
• Autumn planting is especially important in the southern regions, because the risk of sudden hot weather is completely eliminated.

The disadvantages of autumn planting include the risk of frostbite of seedlings. Young trees that have not yet had time to adapt to a new place may not survive severe winter frosts, snowfalls or gusty winds.

Sometimes after winter, young cherries are left with frozen or broken branches. Rodents that feed on the delicate trunk bark of seedlings also pose a great danger.

Choosing a landing site

Cherries love the sun.

In order for the cherry to take root safely in the garden plot, it is very important to choose the right place for it.

The best option would be a small hill, well illuminated by the sun's rays, without the slightest hint of shading.

Grafted seedlings especially urgently need substances that are formed in the leaves during photosynthesis, which requires the sun. Ideally, the rays should illuminate the tree all day, or, in extreme cases, the entire first half of the day.

If the soil on the site is infertile, compost or humus should be prepared.

Cherry does not make excessive demands on the composition of the soil, but the priority is fertile and at the same time light soil. The selected area for planting a seedling should not be located above groundwater or be in a swampy area. Excessively wet soils can cause root rot. For this reason, it is not recommended to plant cherries in ravines and lowlands.

Winds and drafts are unacceptable

But the cherries must also be reliably sheltered from strong winds and drafts. This will protect the garden crop from freezing in winter, as well as from drying and weathering of pollen during the flowering period.

A high, blind fence will protect the cherries from the cold north wind.

Strong gusts of wind can cause great damage to cherries. Young and not yet properly strengthened trees can become severely deformed, especially if the wind constantly blows from one side. In addition, due to the wind, snow does not accumulate near the tree trunk, leaving the plant without natural protection from frost.

If it is not possible to plant a young tree in a place protected from the wind, you should create barriers yourself. Of course, they will allow the wind to pass through, but it will no longer have the same strength and direction.

How to prevent freezing

Early flowering in spring poses a great danger, since there is a high risk of freezing of the blossoming flowers due to sudden frosts.

To avoid this, the tree trunk circle must be covered with a thick layer of snow and sprinkled with straw or sawdust on top. Thanks to this measure, flowering can be delayed by a week and thereby protect the plant.

Selection of planting material

It is best to purchase seedlings from local nurseries with a proven reputation.

Half the key to success in autumn planting is a well-chosen planting material. It is recommended to purchase cherries only from reliable suppliers. This could be a nursery with a good reputation, or an amateur gardener who has been selling high-quality, proven products for several years.

When choosing a seedling, you should pay attention to the following nuances:

• Root system– fibrous, branched, consisting of several strong and many thin roots. It should look healthy: without dry or rotting areas.
• In order for the autumn planting to be successful, on the seedling there should be no foliage.
• Cherry is a self-fertile tree, therefore, another variety must grow on the site, or subsequently other varieties of cherries are grafted onto the mature seedling.

  Seedlings are divided into three categories based on the development of the root system.

Gardeners in the Moscow region who decide to plant cherries in the fall, on the one hand, risk the tree if frost strikes unexpectedly, on the other hand, they get a chance to harden the young plant and adapt it to difficult weather conditions.

Autumn planting rules

Since the cherry tree grows as a rather tall tree, it should be provided with free space within a radius of at least 4–5 m.

Autumn planting garden culture carried out in stages:

• Preparation landing hole . A month before planting cherries, you need to dig a hole approximately 60 cm and width 80 cm.

  When planting in autumn, the hole for the seedling is prepared in advance.

• Nutrient layer. In order for the young tree to have the opportunity, at least for the first time, to freely receive all the necessary substances, a layer of humus and soil should be poured into the bottom of the hole. However, you should not get carried away - an excess of fertilizers will negatively affect the development of the seedling.

  Cherry planting scheme.

• Root preparation. 7–8 hours before planting, the cherry roots should be soaked in a bucket of water. room temperature, and then straighten it carefully.
• Planting a seedling. The tree is placed in a prepared hole so that its roots rise several centimeters above the ground. When the soil naturally settles, they will take their natural position.

  The grafting site should be above the surface of the earth.

• Well preparation. For ease of watering, dig a small hole around the seedling.

After all the manipulations, the young cherries are watered abundantly and mulched using sawdust, peat or humus. This will provide long-term moisture to the plant.

Pruning after planting

Pruning cherries should be postponed until spring, so as not to weaken the already fragile tree.

When planting in autumn, the first pruning is done the following spring.

For autumn planting to be successful, care must be taken to protect the seedling from frost and strong winds.

Video with a detailed description of the process of planting cherries at the end of August

Cherry is a southern crop, but there are varieties that can be grown in the Moscow region. This article is all about proper planting, proper care, and methods of propagating varietal cherries when grown in the Moscow region. Photos of zoned crop varieties in the photo gallery.

Varieties and varieties of cherries for growing in the central regions of Russia

Sweet cherry and sour cherry are close relatives, but the cherry tree is distinguished by its tall growth, sweeter berries, and traditional cultivation in southern regions. Breeders from the central regions of Russia have developed a number of cherry varieties adapted to the harsh conditions of Russian winters; as a result, the following varieties were recommended for gardens in the Moscow region:

• "I put"– delicious sweet cherry with a fruit weight of up to 9 g, dark ruby ​​color, with juicy and sweet pulp. The cherry tree is medium in height and has a pyramidal crown. The variety is resistant to winter frosts and characteristic cherry infections. The purpose is universal.
• "Orlovskaya Amber" – large fruits Cherries have an excellent taste and are yellow-pink in color, aromatic, juicy. The fruits are not large in size - the average weight of one berry reaches 5.5 g.

Orlovskaya amber

• "Raditsa"- a cherry variety with high yield. The ruby-colored fruits with a pronounced delicious taste ripen by early summer. The purpose is universal.
• "Motherland"- a variety with high resistance to diseases, the fruits ripen early. The average weight of the fruit reaches 5 g. During the ripening of cherries, it is not allowed to water the trees, otherwise the ripe fruits will crack.
• "Ovstuzhenka"- large round fruits of this variety have a dark ruby ​​color; cherries ripen in early June. Winter hardiness, yield and disease resistance are high.

Variety Ovstuzhenka

• "Victory"- a variety of cherries with a medium ripening period, red dense berries ripen en masse by the beginning of June. Productivity is high.
• "Fatiozh"- winter-hardy and productive variety with good disease resistance. Fruit Pink colour, not large.
• "Bryansk pink"- the variety belongs to the late variety. Fruiting occurs in the 5th year. The berries are medium-sized with dense yellow-pink pulp and have a sweet taste.
• "Revna"- a universal-purpose variety with black fruits. The pulp is dense, juicy, with a delicious taste. The variety is resistant to diseases and easily tolerates the harsh winters of the Moscow region.

Varieties Revna

• "Tyutchevka"- an excellent late variety with large, red fruits, which is resistant to classic crop diseases.

Advice! Among the cherries there are self-fertile and self-sterile varieties. To ensure a high yield, it is worth planting trees of both groups when forming a garden.

Proper planting of cherries in the central regions of Russia, including the Moscow region

For a cherry orchard, you should choose places protected from the wind with good lighting. Trees do not tolerate winter cold well, so it is necessary to choose zoned varieties with good winter hardiness.
In ventilated gardens, it is useful to install protective screens painted white - this is the easiest way to provide plants with more comfortable conditions.

The soil for planting cherries should be slightly acidic and contain a lot of humus. The soil structure should not be dense or compacted. It is important to protect the root system from excessive moisture, for which, when preparing planting holes, reliable drainage should be provided from a layer of coarse sand or crushed stone.

Preparing a hole for planting cherries

Cherry seedlings can be planted in spring and autumn. Preparing the soil for planting comes down to deep plowing of the area and digging individual planting holes.

Advice! When planting cherries, remember that the tree has deep taproots and an extensive system of lateral roots.

The dimensions of the pits are 0.8 x 0.8 x 1.0; the distance between plants is from 3 to 5 meters. The holes are filled with a specially prepared soil mixture, which includes: nutrient soil, superphosphate, ammonium sulfate, ash, potash fertilizers, and organic matter. To install drainage, add one or two buckets of sand or crushed stone to the bottom of the pit.

Scheme for proper planting of cherries

The trunk of the seedling is placed on a mound of earth in a hole, carefully straightening out all the roots. You can immediately place a peg in the center of the hole to support the weak stem of the seedling.

Important! The root collar of seedlings must not be covered; they should protrude 3-5 cm above the ground.
Planted young cherries should be watered abundantly.

How to care for cherries in the Moscow region

In the garden, under each cherry tree there should be a circle around the trunk with a diameter of at least a meter, in which it is important to periodically loosen the soil and free it from weeds.

Mature trees are watered at least 3 times per season, and to preserve moisture, it is useful to mulch the tree trunks with peat chips and humus.

To increase the yield of cherries, the plants should be pruned correctly. There are formative, sanitary and rejuvenating crown pruning.

• Anti-aging pruning carried out when the tree yield decreases. All branches on the tree are shortened to the length of annual shoots; this pruning does not damage next year's flower buds and stimulates the development of new shoots.

Young trees are pruned to form a crown

• Sanitary pruning required for trees that have suffered damage to skeletal branches. The cut areas are treated with paint or garden varnish to reduce the wound surface and prevent the spread of infections.
• Formative pruning carried out on young seedlings in the first year of planting, forming the skeleton of the tree in the classic sparse-tiered branch arrangement system for cherries. With such a crown, all branches of the tree are evenly illuminated by the sun, and unhindered ventilation is ensured. Pruning scheme: in total there are from 6 to 8 main branches in the crown, which form three tiers.

Advice! Any pruning of branches should be done before the growing season begins.

The height of the trunk depends on the area of ​​growth; in the Moscow region it is necessary to leave the trunk high from 40 cm. The trunk is pruned above the upper bud, the next year the 3 strongest branches are left in the crown and they are left no longer than half a meter. The central shoot is shortened to 4 buds.

What and when to feed cherries?

For young plants, the set of nutrients that are placed in the pits when planting seedlings is quite sufficient. In the first year, cherries do not need to be fertilized.

IN next years When growing cherries, they need fertilizing in spring and autumn, while in the spring they apply fertilizers that stimulate growth - nitrogen. In the fall, potassium and phosphorus compounds are added.

Advice! An overdose of nitrogen fertilizers leads to uncontrolled growth of the crown, which has a bad effect on future yields.

Cherry propagation

Stone fruit crops, when propagated by seeds, do not retain varietal characteristics, so this method is usually not used to expand the garden.

The best way to propagate cherries is graft, which is carried out by the copulation method. Cuttings of high-yielding varieties (scion) are grafted onto persistent young seedlings of cultivated varieties (rootstock). Grafted seedlings perfectly reproduce the parental characteristics, maintain high yields and resistance to frost.

There is a possibility of propagation of the cherry tree by cuttings, but the survival rate of cuttings is low, only up to 5%, so this method is considered unproductive and is rarely used.

Cherry: main diseases of the crop

Sweet cherries have fewer diseases than other stone fruits, but the main diseases of the crop are coccomycosis and sweet cherry moniliosis.

Moniliosis occurs when plants are infected with pathogenic fungi Monilla cinerea. When the disease spreads on a cherry tree, the branches and leaves dry out, as well as the fruits rot. The infection quickly spreads throughout the tree crown, especially with dense plantings in low and damp places. Cool weather and frequent precipitation contribute to the disease.

Treat your garden against pests

Coccomycosis - infection with the fungus Coccomyces hiemalis appears on leaf blades in the form of merging spots of small red dots. The infection affects plants during inclement weather. The leaves become infected and gradually turn brown and fall off.

To combat infections, plants are treated with Horus at the rate of 30 g per bucket of water.

Advice! Soap should be added to the drug solution to form a thick foam. Spraying begins from the inside of the leaves.

Affected parts of diseased plants should be burned to prevent the spread of infections.

Of all the pests, the most harmful to cherries is aphids; pest control is carried out using special preparations.

Sweet cherries in central Russia: video

Growing cherries in the Moscow region: photo