At modern construction For the construction of private houses and various buildings, the most economical is cinder block. It is cheap, large in size and lightweight - these are its advantages, due to which it is in great demand. This means that cinder block walls can be erected very quickly and without additional costs.
These blocks were originally made from cement mortar with admixtures of sand, gravel, water and slag waste from the blast furnace. Due to its components, it got its name. Improved over time technological processes, the equipment was improved, and the composition also changed.
Modern technologies make it possible to include not only slag from furnaces in cinder blocks, but also other components:
- fine crushed stone;
- brick scrap;
- expanded clay;
- gravel waste;
- perlite
But their name does not change today. Any block material called a cinder block. In everyday life of builders it is called wall stone.
Advantages and disadvantages of cinder block bricks
This material, in comparison with other masonry elements, has a number of advantages that justify the choice in its favor:
- efficiency;
- technology and ease of installation, which does not require special qualifications and skills;
- decent performance technical characteristics for strength, thermal conductivity and moisture resistance;
- cinder block is resistant to all natural influences;
- exceeding construction deadlines, unlike brickwork 5 times;
- this material is frost-resistant and not exposed to ultraviolet radiation;
- Unlike brick walls the cinder block structure is much thinner, the heat-shielding qualities are the same;
- various colors;
- It has a small mass, which helps to relieve the load on the base of the foundation.
Like anyone construction material, cinder block bricks also have disadvantages:
- rough surface that requires immediate plastering;
- After production, the cinder block must be kept under open air about 1.5 years;
- difficulties arise when carrying out technical communications through blocks;
- poor sound insulation.
These shortcomings are minor, but they still need to be taken into account when constructing residential and industrial buildings.
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Nuances when constructing cinder block buildings
The wall structure is installed directly on strip foundations. Columnar foundations are not used in order to save money, because when installing on such a foundation it will be necessary to arrange additional load-bearing beam. You can also save more on foundations made of rubble concrete, rubble or solid concrete, since it is not used. During construction, a plinth is also not required. If you wish, you can make it 1.5 bricks thick and about 3-4 bricks high.
Block walls require protection with a layer of waterproofing to prevent moisture penetration from the street. For insulation, roofing felt or roofing felt is most often used. The thickness of the walls must correspond natural conditions dominant in a particular region. In this case, the blocks are mounted in 1 block, and the thickness of the material changes. A smooth wall surface is achieved by plastering, since the edges of cinder blocks are not as smooth as those of foam or twin blocks. Internal and external walls must be finished. The mortar for plaster is prepared in compliance with the proportions of water, cement and sand.
If another material was chosen for finishing, such as brick, sandwich panels, etc., then there is no need to pre-level and plaster the walls. Then only interior walls, because they will be finished with finishing material (painting, wallpapering, etc.), and the surface of the blocks is unsuitable for this. For interior decoration You can use lime mortar.
The mortar required for laying the blocks is made from sand, ordinary water and Portland cement sifted through a sieve with large cells, the grade of which must be at least 400. With different proportions of cement and sand, you can get a mortar of grade 10, but this can only be done by professional builders . Installation of walls begins from the corners or junctions and from the bottom, simultaneously laying out 2-3 rows.
Window and door openings are reinforced with metal channels or corners are used.
But a vault or ceiling made of brick is not at all desirable.
When constructing walls, in addition to ready-made blocks, you can use a cinder block mixture. Using this material, a monolithic wall structure is obtained, which is erected using adjustable formwork with a maximum height of 60 cm.
The formwork is made of boards 40 mm thick. Inside the formwork panels are covered plastic film or glassine and spacers are inserted. On both sides of the planned wall, maintaining a distance of 1-1.5 m, firmly standing posts are driven in. Their cross-section is 10-15 cm, and their length should be equal to the height of the future walls. It is to these posts that the formwork will be attached. The slag concrete solution is laid in layers not exceeding 200 mm. Each of them is subjected to ramming and bayoneting.
It is always useful for homeowners to have some construction skills. This not only simplifies the arrangement and maintenance household, but also saves significantly family budget. When the need arises to build utility rooms, the ability to correctly lay a cinder block with your own hands will come in handy.
The material is of artificial origin and looks like a large compressed element. The binding component is cement. Blast furnace slag, granite or stone screenings, coarse sand, ash, perlite, and broken glass are used as fillers. To improve technical and operational parameters, plasticizers are added to the composition. Standard dimensions are 390x190x188 mm. Such large products are much easier to lay out than brick. Laying time is reduced and mortar is saved.
By appearance There are several types of cinder blocks for their main purpose: hollow, solid, semi-blocks and decorative. The latter option is used to decorate and enhance the moisture resistance of the external walls of the house.
Advantages:
- cheapness;
- wide use;
- big sizes.
Flaws:
- high thermal conductivity;
- insufficient sound insulation;
- poor frost resistance;
- strong moisture absorption.
It is not recommended to make basements, wells, drains from cinder blocks sewer pits. It would be correct to use them for the construction of unheated premises. With your own hands you can lay out a shed, garage, summer kitchen, workshop. If you build a residential building from such material, then the walls inside and outside must be seriously insulated and lined.
Step-by-step instructions for laying blocks
Considering the scheme for constructing walls, we will assume that the foundation for them is already ready and insulated. The main thing is that the base is the same (or slightly larger) width as the cinder blocks. There should be no bulges or pits on the surface.
1. Preparation.
The toolkit includes:
- water level;
- plumb line (line or twine);
- trowel;
- rubber mallet (mallet);
- order;
- manual Circular Saw or hacksaw;
- respirator (must be worn when cutting blocks).
Place 4 elements at the tops of the corners, achieving a regular rectangle, and secure the rows with marks. It will be easier to lay blocks on them, focusing on their thickness and the width of the seams. Stretch a cord between the rows, which makes it convenient to adjust the styling. Prepare cement mortar in a concrete mixer.
2. First row.
The evenness of the walls and the durability of the entire structure depend on how correctly the initial layer is laid out.
- Apply a layer of cement mortar and distribute it evenly over the surface of the foundation.
- Take one block with your left hand by the middle and bring it to the masonry site at an angle of 45°. Then unfold it parallel to the wall and lay it down.
- Fit the stone under the tensioned cord by lightly tapping it with a hammer.
- Remove excess compound from the cracks that has been squeezed out under the weight of the stone.
- Using the same scheme, install the second and third stones.
- Check the evenness of the row using a plumb line and hydraulic level.
- Continue laying bricks until the end, periodically checking their placement.
3. Subsequent rows.
Installation of the second and all even layers begins with half of the block in order to move the row. Otherwise, they follow the same technology as for the first layer: applying the solution, placing the stone, leveling along the cord, removing excess.
Nuances of masonry work
You need cement grade M400 or M500. Any sand is suitable, but it is better if it is gray(river). The addition of plasticizers gives elasticity, reduces porosity and facilitates application. To save money, the special substance can be replaced with red clay or wood ash(a third of a bucket for 4 buckets of mixture), as well as household detergent.
2. How to prepare masonry composition yourself?
Pour a dry mixture of cement and sand into the concrete mixer drum, maintaining a ratio of 1:3. Turn on the unit and, adding water in small portions, knead a solution of medium viscosity. Add the plasticizer at the very end.
3. How to determine the volume of one batch?
When preparing CSP, follow this rule: knead enough to last for an hour and a half of work. It takes a bucket of mixture to install four blocks. Unused composition quickly hardens and becomes unusable in the future.
4. What is optimal thickness seams?
Cement joints must reliably hold the masonry, so it is very important to carefully seal all cracks, maintaining a thickness of 10-15 mm. The wet solution that is released after leveling is removed and placed between the stones. According to the instructions, it is not recommended to smear it on the surface of the cinder block, filling the unevenness - this worsens the insulating qualities of the material.
5. Where to start installation?
Determine the method and thickness of the masonry. Depending on the purpose of the building and climatic conditions, it can be placed in one, one and a half or two stones. For internal partitions They usually use the spoon construction method - half a cinder block.
6. What is jointing?
If the walls are not supposed to be covered, then the seams need to be “embroidered”. For this purpose they use special knife in the form of a curved hollow tube with an oblique cut. Its diameter should be equal to the width of the seam. Use a tool to move along all interblock connections, applying light force. The result is a beautiful and even joint.
7. What is reinforcement used for?
To strengthen the walls, reduce the load and prevent cracks from appearing, reinforcement must be placed between the cinder blocks. This rule is mandatory for the first and every fourth row of the wall.
The following materials are used for work:
- Metal mesh with cell sizes 50x50 mm - to prevent rusting, it is coated with a masonry compound.
- Steel rods are placed in the grooves between the blocks and protect the DSP from above.
- Reinforcement frame - made of galvanized steel strips, connecting them together with wire. Fixed in the wall using mortar or glue.
According to the instructions, window and door openings are also subject to mandatory reinforcement.
- Before you begin, you should think about how to carry out work at height yourself. An ordinary ladder or stepladder is not suitable for this purpose. It is best to use scaffolding or a special platform with height adjustment. Accessories and a bucket of solution fit well on it.
- Laying hollow cinder blocks is always done with the holes facing down.
- As you work, you have to place marks on the wall multiple times. This is convenient to do with the help of colored crayons, which are clearly visible on cinder blocks.
- If necessary, you can change the color of the seam joints: add soot, lime or copper sulfate. The seams will turn black, white or bluish.
Reliable and beautiful masonry cinder block consists of approximately 10% theory and 90% practice, but despite this ratio, without 10% theory it is difficult to master practical skills and begin to apply them on a construction site.
In the image: illustration of the three basic rules for laying blocks (bricks), 1 - the direction of the load force on the wall, 2 - the direction of the destructive forces when laying wedge-shaped stones, 3 - the distribution of the load over the surface of the wall.
1. Cinder block and any other stone, both natural and artificial, tolerate compression well and do not easily break or bend. This is where the first rule of reliable masonry arises - the overlying stone must rest with its entire surface on the underlying masonry. To achieve this, when laying cinder blocks, apply the solution to the entire surface of the underlying block, and not just along the edges.
2. The side edges of the stones should be located only at right angles to the horizon. If this rule is not followed, the stones begin to act as wedges, which, under load, push the masonry apart, destroying it.
3. Each next row of blocks should be shifted relative to the bottom one by a quarter or half of the block, that is, the vertical seams of adjacent rows should not be allowed to coincide. If the seams do not match ( correct masonry), then the vertical load spreads across the entire wall, and if the seams coincide (wrong masonry), then the load spreads along the column, sharply increasing the likelihood of destruction of part of the wall.
And a few tips: when working in hot or windy weather, it is advisable to moisten the blocks, this increases the adhesion between the solution and the cinder block; if a break is expected during the laying process, then the mortar should not be spread on the top row; Every 3 - 4 rows it is necessary to check the horizontality and verticality of the rows.
In the image: cinder block elements: 1 - upper bed, 2 - large side edge - spoon, 3 - small side edge - poke.
To make it easier to understand what kind of cinder block masonry can be used when building a wall, you need to remember that the block has 6 faces: 2 opposite ones on which the block is laid - the upper and lower beds; big side faces- spoons; small side edges are pokes. The masonry is carried out in horizontal rows and cinder blocks are laid on beds.
The height of each horizontal row is formed from the height of the stone and the thickness of the horizontal mortar joint, which is usually 10 - 12 mm.
In the image: 1 - masonry in half a cinder block, 2 - masonry in a cinder block, 3 - one and a half cinder blocks.
The width of the masonry, which ultimately is the thickness of the wall, should be a multiple of 1/2 of the cinder block.
Factors affecting the reliability of a wall made of cinder block or any other stone
The strength of the masonry is determined by the quality of the cinder block and the properties of the solution. The maximum strength of masonry made from blocks is equal to 40 - 50% of the tensile strength of the blocks themselves. This situation is explained as follows: during laying, the mortar is laid on the blocks in an uneven layer, microscopic kinks and voids appear, this leads to the formation of different pressures on the cinder block in different parts of the wall, bending stress arises in the block, and just such a load cinder block does not hold up well.
In the image: stages of destruction of masonry, 1 - appearance of cracks, 2 - formation of individual columns, 3 - complete destruction of the wall.
If a wall experiences excessive load, it first becomes covered with vertical cracks, which are most often located along vertical seams. Over time, the cracks expand and monolithic wall turns into a set of columns that can move out of the plane of the wall and eventually the masonry collapses.
The reliability of the masonry largely depends on the quality of the mortar; the plasticity of the mortar is especially important. The plastic solution lies evenly on the stone, as a result, the bending stress decreases and the reliability of the wall increases.
When mixing the solution, strictly observe the proportions, taking into account the quality of sand and cement, do not prepare for future use.
The strength of the masonry also depends on the thickness of the seam; the thicker the layer of mortar, the harder it is to evenly place it on the cinder block and the likelihood of fracture stress increases. For this reason, each type of masonry is made with a certain thickness of the seam (for a cinder block this is approximately 1 cm), and it is not possible to increase this thickness without the risk of reducing the strength of the structure.
Cinder Block Laying Tools
In the image: tools needed for masonry stone wall, 1 - trowel (trowel), 2 - mortar shovel, 3 - jointing for convex and concave seams, 4 - hammer-pick, 5 - plumb line, 6 - square, 7 - construction level, 8 - tape measure, 9 - level, 10 - folding meter, 11 - duralumin rule, 12 - order.
1. A trowel is a steel shovel with a wooden handle, with the help of which the mortar is leveled, the seams are filled, and excess mortar is trimmed.
2. The mortar shovel is designed to mix the mortar without allowing it to separate, apply it to the wall and spread it.
3. Joints with which the seams can be given a convex, concave, triangular, rectangular recessed shape.
4. A pick hammer is used when chopping and hewing bricks or blocks.
5. A plumb line, with its help the mason controls the verticality of the wall, piers, corners, and so on. This tool, depending on whether the verticality of masonry is checked within one or several floors, has different weight. For the first case it is 200 - 400 g, for the second 600 - 1000 g.
6. The square is used to check angles.
7. Construction level, which is designed to control horizontal and vertical plane. Available in lengths of 300, 500 and 700 mm. Structurally, it consists of an aluminum case with two glass ampoules filled with non-freezing liquid, in which an air bubble remains. The principle of operation of the device is simple: place it on the surface of the wall and look at the position of the bubble. If it measures in the middle between the divisions of the ampoule, then the surface is horizontal; if it is shifted in any direction, then there is a deviation.
8. Tape measures and folding meter are designed for measuring short distances.
9. Rules-level - this tool is made from trimmed wooden (section 30 × 80 mm, length 1.5 - 2 meters) or duralumin slats with a special profile. With its help, the front surface of the laid wall is controlled.
10. Order - represents wooden slats(section 50 × 50 or 70 × 50, length 1.8 - 2 meters) with divisions every 77 mm, which is equal to the thickness of one row with mortar (65 mm + 12 mm). The order can also be made from a metal corner, on the edges of which divisions with a depth of 3 mm and a pitch of 77 mm are cut.
Sequence of work when constructing cinder block walls
In the image: 1 - laying the outer spoon verst, 2 - inner spoon verst, 3 - butting row.
One of the first questions that arises before starting to build walls is how thick should they be? The best answer to this question is to get it from project documentation, but many people build houses without plans, in this case you can rely on these numbers. During construction 1 storey building and at an air temperature in winter - 20 C, the wall thickness is 350 - 400 mm; temperature - 30 C thickness 450 - 500 mm; temperature - 40 C thickness 550 - 650 mm.
The cinder block laying is carried out by a master and an assistant. The latter stands in front and, moving along the course of the masonry, delivers the blocks onto the wall, laying them out in steps equal to the length of the block being laid and at a distance from the wall equal to two lengths of the stone. With this arrangement, it will be convenient for the master to spread the mortar and lay the blocks on the wall. The assistant’s responsibilities also include supplying the solution.
Cinder block is a “fast” building material that speeds up the work of a mason.
The master lays the mortar with a shovel on the upper surface of the wall, the width of the strip is several centimeters narrower than the width of the block. The cinder block is laid on fresh mortar and pressed close to the laid block, after which it is pushed down with both hands and, if necessary, with a hammer. The protruding mortar is cut off with a trowel and the vertical seams are filled. If the cinder block does not have a recess on the bonded surface, then a solution must be applied to this face before laying the block on the wall.
Additional articles with useful information
Whether or not to use cinder block as the main building material when building a house can be decided only after taking into account the positive and negative aspects this artificial stone.
Many developers can be helped out frame walls, especially if you take into account their features during construction and operation, since they can be built without special equipment and they are much cheaper.
Before you start building a cinder block house, the pros and cons of which we discussed above, it is worth considering all the points when laying the foundation, construction and further operation of the building.
First of all, you should correctly calculate the amount of material required. The slag block mainly has standard sizes. This greatly helps in determining how many blocks are needed per 1 m2. Then an estimate is drawn up, which will help not only to fix the number of all Supplies, but will also display the estimated cash costs. Correct calculations for initial stage will help eliminate future errors when construction work. It is also imperative to adhere to the rules for laying slag stone, because this will affect the safety, strength, long term operation of the building.
Transportation and storage of blocks is carried out at wooden pallets.
There are some nuances that significantly simplify the construction process and help save money:
- Laying cinder blocks is done with a minimum number of conventional construction tools - a trowel, a construction shovel, a container for preparing mortar, a level.
- It is advisable to place a stand nearby in advance on which the products for top installation will be placed to save time.
- The masonry layer (its thickness) should be no more than 15 mm, otherwise it can lead to a significant loss of internal heat.
- It is more advisable to mix the solution using a concrete mixer.
- Laying begins from the corner. Excess mortar, which appears after pressing, must be immediately leveled with a trowel, otherwise lumps may appear.
We discussed above which cinder block is better for building a house. But environmental Safety of this material leaves much to be desired. As already mentioned, recycled waste is used in the production of slag blocks various industries. Therefore, it is more expedient to use it in the construction of warehouses, hangars, garages, etc. If you want to build your own secluded “nest”, which must meet all the requirements of a living space, such as environmental friendliness, safety, thermal conductivity, we advise you to listen to the advice and choose expanded clay concrete for this purpose. Our database contains trusted suppliers of expanded clay cinder blocks throughout Russia, and prices are lower thanks to live competition.
Before you insulate a cinder block house from the inside on your own, you need to know the rules for carrying out such work. It is important to choose materials that are suitable for this.
Today construction market filled with such products. There are a large number of them. They are usually made from mineral wool or foam. Insulating a building with one product or another requires certain skills. How to properly insulate a cinder block house will be discussed below.
The slag-filled house itself is warm, especially if the thickness of the slag-cast wall in it is more than 30 centimeters. But in order to spend less on heating in winter, the building can be additionally finished. In this case, it is possible to carry out both external and internal insulation cinder block walls at home with your own hands.
Which side should I finish a cinder block house?
Thermal insulation can be both outside the walls and inside. If finishing is done using the first method, you can save space inside the building. Insulation cinder block house outside will also require less costs effort, time or money.
How to insulate a cinder block house?
How to insulate a cinder block house from the outside? External finishing can be done with polystyrene foam. This material is easily glued using a special mixture. First, it is worth leveling the wall under it and priming it so that moisture does not seep through. So how to insulate a cinder block structure correctly?
To create thermal insulation inside, preparatory measures will be required. To do this, the surface is leveled and then primed. Such work can be done using plaster or putty mixture. The walls must first be cleaned of dirt or dust.
In order for the thermal insulation to last a long time, it is important to put a layer of waterproofing under the thermal material. This will help avoid condensation.
To finish the inside you will need:
- Insulation. The thickness of the sheets should not be more than 5 centimeters.
- Putty knife.
- Glue.
Once the site is prepared, you can begin installing the slabs. The adhesive mixture must be prepared according to the instructions on the package. It is applied to the surface with a spatula. Then the insulation material is glued to the glue. In this case, there should be no air under the slabs.
Important! Glue should be applied only to the base, not the slabs. The thermal material itself must have a clean surface. The sheets fit tightly to each other after gluing. If there are gaps left, they can be blown out with foam or sealed with putty.
How to install insulation on cinder block walls?
Before you insulate a cinder block house, you need to choose a thermal insulator. Insulation of a cinder block house from the inside can be done different materials. Their installation has certain nuances depending on the type of insulation. It is important to know such points before starting the event.
Foam insulation
The difficulty of using this product is that its installation requires a level base. If it is a cinder block wall, then it will need to be pre-plastered and then primed. The surface must be free of dust or paint.
To prevent it from absorbing moisture, waterproofing must be placed underneath it. This will allow the insulation to last longer. Waterproofing will not allow condensation to form, and therefore the walls will always be dry.
To work you need:
- Styrofoam.
- Putty knife.
- Glue.
Installation is simple. The prepared surface is covered with glue, and then the plate is attached there. Then the plate must be pressed to squeeze out the remaining air from under it. It is recommended to apply the adhesive exclusively to the wall and not to the sheet. Then all the gaps between the slabs are sealed with plaster.
Installation can also be done using plastic dowels. But usually inside the house they are glued using a mixture. The final stage will be finishing or painting.
This method is fast and practical. The main advantage is that there is no need to level the surface before laying mineral wool. The installation process is carried out on the frame. It can be made of wood or aluminum. Before strengthening, the tree should be treated with mixtures that will prevent it from rotting and will prevent the appearance of insects.
The frame consists of cells of a certain shape into which mineral wool is placed. Then the whole thing is covered with plasterboard on top and then finished off.
Sealing insulation
After laying the thermal material, it is important to check its sealing at joints, sockets, switches and other things. Air may enter into the cracks remaining in these places. To prevent this from happening, sealants are used. If the gaps are large, polyurethane foam is used.
Conclusion
A video on how to insulate a cinder block building from the inside or outside is below. You can use it to learn more about the insulation installation process. It is also worth noting that insulation with mineral wool will cost less than with polystyrene foam.
To the benefits mineral wool refers to the fact that it does not burn like polystyrene foam. Also, when smoldering, no harmful gases will be released into the air. The downside is that cotton wool can absorb moisture when communications leak. But here everyone must calculate their capabilities and strengths, and then choose based on this best option for myself.
