Installation of electrical wiring in the apartment. Installation of electrical wiring in an apartment - rules, main stages, plan diagram. What type of cable and wire products to choose

In old buildings, electrical wiring is installed to provide electricity in the amount necessary to power devices with a total power of 1-2 kW per apartment. Such power does not meet the needs of modern man, and the wiring had to be replaced with new ones. In new buildings, the level of electricity consumption is taken into account, taking into account the use of air conditioners, computers, washing machines and other equipment. More reliable machines, modern RCDs, and copper wires are used. How is electrical wiring installed in modern buildings?

Condition at delivery stage

Wiring in any new building is already calculated at the design stage in order to ensure an uninterrupted, safe supply of housing. In this case, the power supply design takes into account the installation of all wiring in the building, including telephone lines, radio broadcast networks, and fire alarm networks. This option is used when apartments in new buildings are delivered on a turnkey basis.

The second option, according to which electrical wiring is carried out in a new building, provides for the introduction into each apartment of only a power cable designed to supply consumers with the required power. Further, the installation of meters, electrical installation products (sockets, switches) is carried out by the owner of the residential premises independently. In this case, either specialists are involved, or the work is carried out on their own if they have the necessary knowledge and skills. This option is appropriate if the premises are transferred to the owner without finishing, which is very often practiced in the modern housing construction market.

Regulations

The creation of a project and installation of electrical wiring in a new building is carried out in strict accordance with the requirements of the standards noted in the documentation. The main documents are:

The latest editions of the PUE require that wiring carried out in a hidden way in buildings under construction must be replaceable, therefore its installation is carried out in special electrical pipes made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), which are embedded in building structures.
In new buildings, this work is carried out immediately after the construction of the building structure and closing of the openings. Very often they take place in parallel with heating installation work.

Electrical wiring technology

To begin work, you will need an electrical wiring diagram, which will show the mounting locations of sockets, switches, distribution boxes, and the lines along which the wires will be laid. The wiring parameters and characteristics are also indicated. The scheme is developed taking into account the requirements for future decoration of the premises, since some decisions when designing wiring will depend on the material of the structures and finishing materials.

Convenient location

The location of electrical installation devices must meet the needs of future owners of the new building and ergonomic requirements. In this case, the diagram must take into account the minimum distances between wiring elements and plumbing fixtures and gas pipelines. In agreement with the Energonadzor services, it is possible to install utility panels with electricity consumption meters inside the apartments of new buildings. Their location should also be reflected in the diagram.

In accordance with the diagram, the location of future electrical wiring is marked in the apartments of the new building, and the housings of sockets, switches, distribution boxes, and distribution panels are installed. Nests and niches for them can be made in the walls. In this case, the housings of the distribution boards must be made of metal and embedded in the structure using M150 grade mortar.

Wiring

Next, all sockets, switches and installation locations for lighting fixtures are connected with PVC pipes in accordance with the connection diagram. These tubes are buried in the wall structures. At the same time, gating is not allowed in load-bearing walls made of reinforced concrete panels. The tubes are installed under a layer of plaster. On ceilings, wiring is carried out in pipes embedded in reinforced concrete floors, or carried out in the voids of floor slabs. If the pipes were not embedded in the ceilings at the stage of erecting the building frame, then they are also hidden by a layer of plaster or behind the structures of future suspended or suspended ceilings in the new building. At each section, the tubes must be intact, without joints.

Connection and connection protection

At the next stage of work, all future distribution boxes, sockets and switches are connected to each other and to the installation sites of lighting fixtures using cables of the type and cross-section indicated in the diagram, pulled in tubes using special broaches. The ends of the cables are marked to avoid confusion when connecting.

Next, the wires are connected in junction boxes. Making connections outside distribution boxes, as well as in installation boxes and housings of sockets and switches is not allowed.

Circuit breakers are installed in distribution panels to protect each individual circuit. For circuits in wet rooms, residual current devices (RCDs) or differential circuit breakers are installed.

In the utility panel, together with the meter, an input machine must be installed, which, like the meter, is subsequently sealed.

As-built documentation

After installing the wiring in a new building, it is necessary to draw up as-built documentation reflecting the location of the electrical wiring in the apartment. When the apartment owner installs furniture, interior items, conducts additional communications, and makes holes in the walls, he must know the location of the wires. Otherwise, they can be damaged, and repairs will require a significant investment of time and money.

Such documentation is carried out in the form of acts for carrying out hidden work, drawing up diagrams, and using photographs depicting electrical wiring elements before plastering.

In addition to this, all automatic circuit breakers and RCDs are marked and signed in the distribution board according to the purpose of the circuits they protect.
The information specified in the execution documentation will subsequently be used when drawing up a technical passport for the residential premises (apartment).

But the existing project does not always satisfy the owner of an apartment in a new building. The owner may be dissatisfied with the quality of work, the reliability of the gasket, or the location of the meter or distribution panel. In this case, it becomes necessary to change the electrical wiring.

You can change sockets, switches, and make convenient wiring inside a new building apartment without permission. But you shouldn’t just interfere with changes in the wiring diagram outside the apartment.

Changes in the project

If the wiring in the building was carried out during the construction process, there is always a possibility that the owner of the new building will want to change it, based on his considerations of functionality and convenience.

Any changes in the electrical wiring diagram regarding its characteristics are considered a refurbishment of the premises, and must be made in agreement with local authorities based on their decision. This could be a change in the cross-section of wires, replacement of machines, distribution boards, cables, installation of an additional power line, and the like.

To do this, the owner submits:

• application for reorganization;
• purchase and sale agreement, deed of gift or other documents confirming the right to use the apartment;
• redevelopment project;
• technical certificate;
• consent of all family members of the employer;

The conclusion of the monument protection authority in the case of a new building is unlikely to be needed.

You will have to wait longer than a month for a decision – 45 days. Moreover, both permission and refusal may come. The countdown begins from the day the owner submits all necessary documents. The body authorized to carry out the approval, after making a decision, issues or sends a confirming document within 3 working days.

The document received by the owner will subsequently serve as the basis giving the right to reconstruct the premises.

From this day forward, it is allowed to carry out work on changing electrical wiring. It must be remembered that the new lines and installation parameters will be noted in the technical passport for the apartment.

An apartment in which renovation begins is like a blank canvas, like a ticket to a new life. I hope you have patience, endurance, money and a vision of how you will truly create “your” home. And you will have to start creating from the base - electrical wiring.

I recommend that you pay extreme attention to this stage of repair. Don’t just invite an electrician (at best, on the recommendations of friends) and leave it to him, but delve into the issue personally, and more deeply. After reading this material, you will be convinced that at the initial stage you will have to bother a little more in order to ultimately get a truly modern, comfortable “fortress house”. In which life will be comfortable and rational.

The catch is that the concept of correctness in this matter is extremely vague. From standards generally accepted since Soviet times to progressive and, in fact, appropriate in the 21st century. I will try to tell you about the second option. And show its capabilities and advantages. Of course, it is impossible to embrace the immensity and present in detail all the subtleties of apartment electrical wiring within the framework of one material. But, I hope, I managed to reveal the main idea - about why we should move away from the usual techniques.

So, your main task is to achieve a convenient and correct electrical circuit. In simple terms: so that sockets and switches are in convenient places (but not an eyesore), so that they are confidently enough, so that the equipment works without failures, and it is absolutely safe to use electricity in the apartment. This can be achieved by following a simple algorithm. And a good start is half the battle here. Where to start? From the mind - from planning and drafting technical diagram. For this you will have to go through 3 main stages:

1. mark the location of the shield,
2. draw up a diagram of the location of sockets and switches,
3. draw routes and calculate the required amount of cable.

For clarity, here and there I will illustrate the material with data from the website of the large electrical and lighting store “AxiomPlus”. There is always up-to-date technical and pricing information.

Where to install the shield?

In 99% of cases they are placed in the hallway, which is not without logic. By placing the box in the area of ​​the front door at a height of about 1.5 meters from the floor, you:

1. reduce the length of the power cable to a minimum,
2. at the exit from the apartment you can, if necessary, disconnect unnecessary lines,
3. Prevent small children from accessing the content.

Having determined a suitable place, put marks on the wall so as not to lose it. And we move on.

Please note: it is too early to buy the shield itself at this stage! You do not yet know which modular devices and in what quantities will be located in it, therefore you do not have data for choosing the size and capacity of the box. All this will become known later. In addition, below I will talk about the capabilities of a new type of electrical panels. I promise they will be a godsend for many.

Next according to the plan is the marking of socket groups and switches.

You can easily handle this yourself, because who knows better than you where you will place the furniture, appliances and lamps? Focus on convenience. Walk around the apartment, determine where you will need basic and additional lighting. Discuss with other family members how and where it is convenient for them to use technology.

Then, on paper (or on a copy of the apartment plan), in a mobile application, on a computer (whichever is more convenient), sketch out a diagram of the layout of large furniture (sofas, tables, beds, cabinets, TV and audio equipment, kitchen furniture). And after that - the location of sockets and switches. Why after? So that in fact it doesn’t turn out that a third of the connection points are hidden behind bulky interior items and become inaccessible for use, and there is nowhere to turn on some of the equipment.

Tip: don’t skimp on the number of outlets. In this matter, it is better to over than under. As practice shows, at least 50 pieces are needed for a standard two-room apartment. Group them 2-3-4, it's convenient. And in the future, when several connection points are united by one decorative frame, it will be aesthetically pleasing. If you “save” at this stage, you will receive less in everyday comfort. And over time, “decorate” the apartment with garlands of wires from extension cords and tees.

Did you come up with it? Have you planned it? Pick up a pencil with a strong lead (there are also special construction ones) and... feel like Michelangelo.

The next task is painting on the walls and ceiling.

Draw a path from each planned outlet and switch to the panel. That is, from the point on the walls where they will be located in the near future. Route the main cable routes either along the floor or ceiling. How to choose? If you plan to have a heated floor, then ceiling cable routing is actually the only possible option and, in practice, the one most often used.

For the sake of fairness, I will make a remark. Theoretically, a “warm floor” does not interfere with the laying of cable routes in the floor. Here the question depends on the thickness of the screed: for example, you can safely pour anything into a 10-centimeter layer of screed. But in apartments they usually try not to “eat” so much. We’ll talk about the “warm field” (and how, in fact, to “eat” less height) below in more detail.

When drawing, make sure that the lines go from above to the sockets (each 0.3 m from the floor) and switches (0.9-1 m from the floor) strictly vertically, and all turns are only at right angles.

As a result of the art, you will get a lot of drawn lines converging at one point - at the place where the apartment electrical panel is installed. Why do this? For preliminary calculation of the required cable footage.

Tip: Mark each pencil line, clearly indicating where the cable will be routed from. This will greatly facilitate and speed up installation in the future.

Why are there so many lines?

It is important to understand: a progressive approach to organizing electrical wiring assumes that each socket or switch is connected by wire to the panel directly, without junction boxes and without connections. This the most reliable and high-quality thing you can do with home electrical wiring. Frankly, the main cause of fires due to faulty electrical wiring is precisely where the wires connect. This is the most problematic place. Accordingly, if there are no connections, the risks are several times lower.

It's comfortable. Self-contained circuits are always more practical than all sockets powered by one cable. There was an accident in one, the entire line was turned off “until clarification” - and you sit without the ability to turn on electrical appliances anywhere. Plus it will often cost less. Well, at least not more expensive, I’ll cover the topic below.

What electricians still do, and why it's wrong.

I won’t speak for all specialists, but the fact remains a fact. It will be a long time since there will be no shortage of masters who think and act according to the standards of the last century. Not according to the needs of modern housing with its electrical filling. What does it mean? And the fact that the wiring project and cable calculations, and, accordingly, automation, is carried out with an eye on hopelessly outdated standards. Standards by which you overpay when receiving electrical wiring with minimal potential.

• 2 wiring circuits per room - for lighting and sockets;
• separate circuits directly to the panel for each powerful electrical appliance (such as an electric stove or oven);
• a separate circuit breaker in the panel to protect each line.

Regarding the choice of cable cross-section, the usual standards, tested for decades, are the following (you can check it yourself by googling or talking to a familiar electrician):

• 1.5 mm2 for lighting lines + 10A circuit breaker;
• 2.5 mm2 for socket lines + plus 16A circuit breaker;
• 4 mm2 for powerful consumers + plus a 20A circuit breaker.

Simple, clear, proven. But it's outdated. In no way am I saying that this cannot be done - it is certainly possible. The question is, why, if you can do it smartly, and not the old fashioned way? The next step is to figure out how to calculate the wires “in a new way.”

What is the best way to select and calculate a cable: cross-section, length, brand?

First, by engaging rational critical thinking. Mainly in order to analyze the real (and not theoretical, but in fact outdated) electricity consumption of modern household appliances and lamps.

As a prelude, I will name the main bonus: you will save on the purchase of cable.

At the very least, don’t overpay, and you’ll “eat” the fruits every day. Buy a kilometer of thin wire or half a kilometer of thick wire - that’s what it will do. Yes, there will be more automation in the dashboard, but this is not a significant increase in price. After all, this is not to install RCDs on all lines (I’ll talk about this in more detail below). Adding 10-15 low-denomination machines will not significantly affect the budget. Oh yes, and the box will need a little more room, which is also a small thing.

First, the most revealing point: let's talk about lighting.

We take it for granted that in most apartments and cottages it is already LED. With all the ensuing advantages, including super-economical consumption. And the above standardized cable cross-section indicators were developed for hopelessly outdated, but half a century ago, voracious LONs that did not have a single competitor. Isn’t it significant: instead of 60W for LON, it’s only 6-7W for LED!

So what's the point of stubbornly powering a light bulb with 10 times less consumption with the same 1.5 mm2? Ok, let’s not consider one light bulb, let’s take for clarity an expensive, rich chandelier with a total consumption of 50W. Even for it, the cross-section is not that “one and a half”, but 0.75 mm2 suggests a decent margin of safety.

The check here is simple: use the formula, proven over decades (this is what never becomes outdated) and generations of electricians:

I(A) = S(mm2) × 10

where I is the current strength, S is the required cable cross-section, 10 is simply 10. I’ll immediately add a note: practice has proven that this empirically derived formula differs from scientific calculations within a tiny statistical error and has an ironclad right to exist.

For our magnificent (and by LED standards, voracious) chandelier, the required cross-sectional area will be:

1. 50W / 230V = 0.22A,
2. 0.22A / 10 = 0.022mm2,
3. 0.75mm2 / 0.022 = 34 times.

How do you like it? Even such an unusually thin wire exceeds the actual requirement by 34 (!), and the usual 1.5 mm2 for lighting lines is simply blatantly off scale.

Let me note once again that these are approximate calculations, but they are not far from reality.

Why fight for a new approach and a thin wire? Not at all because of compactness as such, it’s still ditching. And for the sake of significant savings. Because for every meter of cable you will lose a significant amount. For a cable coil of 0.75 mm2 you will pay about 200 UAH. For “one and a half rubles” - 6-7 times more. Yes, you will have to buy up to several kilometers of thin cable and generously lay it out in bundles. It happens that 10 km of wires are wound in an apartment, but these are thin wires.

What cross section should be used for 220/230V sockets?

At a minimum, install a separate cable for each more or less powerful electrical appliance. Split system, washing machine, electric water heater... Let there be 20, 30 lines in total - this is not terrible, but even good (remember about twists and connections, or rather, that it is advisable to minimize them, and ideally avoid them). And for each electrical appliance, calculate the cross-section as close as possible. Moreover, standard sockets larger than 16 amperes will still not pass through.

I’ll say more and look ahead: not all standard sockets will carry even 16 amperes. Even (!) if it says on them that they can. Here the issue comes down to quality. In cheap Turkish or Chinese sockets you will rarely find actual copper or at least brass as part of the contact group, because in fact there is steel coated with paint with a hint of copper, and the possibilities are even smaller. And accordingly, it simply doesn’t make sense to run an expensive thick cable to such an outlet.

Often in practice there are situations when people are going to buy a good cable for their apartment (for example, from Odeskabel), but at the same time the sockets are from the frank economy segment - they say, they can save money on this. It might save you money, but the point of overpaying for cable is immediately lost.

Real examples: cables are purchased for 15 thousand UAH, and sockets are purchased for 1.5 thousand UAH. Chinese (despite the fact that German ones would cost 3,000 UAH). Would it makes more sense to do the opposite: lay a thinner cable and use German sockets. For the price it would have worked out that way, but the result would have been definitely cooler, more correct and more durable. It makes no sense to run a cable that can withstand 7 kW to an outlet that cannot withstand 3 kW. That is, this is money wasted on cable.

In addition, if there is a really powerful electrical appliance that requires the appropriate cable cross-section (like an electric stove, unless it was connected directly from the panel), then the socket for it will be a special one, a power one.

And the cable there really needs to be 4mm2. And in other cases, there is no point in chasing the cross-section. All the same, the socket as a weak link immediately limits the capabilities of the entire system.

By the way, we will definitely talk about the selection and installation of electrical accessories below; this is a really important issue. One of the fundamental ones. In the meantime, let's continue about cable selection.

In current realities, more electricity is actually consumed than 3-4 decades ago. But this happens mainly due to an increase in the amount of equipment in each individual household. At the same time, modern electrical appliances are no match for Soviet ones; they are no longer so voracious in themselves (look at the labeling of new washing machines and refrigerators - solid A+ and A++). Overall consumption becomes more economical and is smoothly distributed over time throughout the day, without sudden jumps. Not like decades ago, when the refrigerator turned on in your kitchen, and even the neighbors’ lights flickered. Those. total consumption has increased, but peak consumption has not. Due to the fact that consumption is low, there is no point in making large gaps.

What's in the numbers? Based on the lighting, you have decided - feel free to choose a cable with a cross-section of 0.75 mm2.

If you ask: why not 0.5mm2, since according to calculations this is enough? But because the difference in price for these sections is not significant. At the same time, we take into account that on long routes with too small a cross-section there can be significant losses. Plus 0.75mm2 is definitely enough for everything related to light, and with a decent margin for the future. Therefore, it is better to buy 0.75mm2, so as not to think and never remember.

Let's move on to the sockets.

Rating 10A or 16A - the value for which standard Schuko sockets are designed. A 3x2.5mm2 wire is what is prescribed to power them according to classic electrical installations. Let's check the relevance of these recommendations using the same scheme: 2.5mm2 × 10 = 25A - this is how much the wire can pass, but bad luck - the outlet itself is limited to 16 amperes. By the way, this is 3.6 kW (16A × 230V) of the power of the connected electrical appliance, let’s also look at this indicator: 25A × 230V = 5.75 kW - something too powerful to plug into a regular outlet, isn’t it? After all, in fact, the consumption of modern technology is quite modest. Take even the most powerful ones - a storage electric water heater, also known as a boiler, for 1.5 kW: 1500 W / 230 V = 6.5 A, 6.5 / 10 (the formula mentioned above) = 0.65 mm2.

As you can see, even quite powerful equipment with a significant reserve is powered by the same “one and a half”. The conclusion is similar to the point about lighting - wires with a cross-section of 2.5 mm2 are an unreasonably expensive and unnecessary solution.

Life hack: plan several outlets that you will use only for charging mobile devices. Somewhere near the bedside table or in the hallway, whichever is more convenient for you. And feel free to power them with a wire with a cross-section of 1 mm2, because the consumption there will be absolutely negligible. For what? Additional savings in cable purchases: 4 times per meter. The same for low-power consumers such as musical equipment.

Is that “2.5mm2 for socket lines” really useful? To be honest, in reality it is only needed for direct connection of an oven or a powerful boiler (there are such things). Such devices do not have a plug; the cable goes directly inside from the panel and is connected to a special terminal. For an electric kettle or iron, it is enough to just buy a very high-quality 1.5mm2 cable, so that it certainly complies with GOST. But, of course, to calm your soul, you can lay 2.5mm2 on the circuits with sockets for connecting an iron, vacuum cleaner, electric kettle or heater. To be sure.

Regarding particularly powerful consumers the recommendations remain relevant: for an electric oven or electric stove, it is better to make separate circuits directly to the panel using a cable with a cross-section of 4 mm2 for a consumer with a power of up to 6-7 kW or 6 mm2 for 8-10 kW. Three-wire for single-phase network, five-wire for three-phase.

Here I will also make a footnote - even stoves and ovens are not always connected to 4mm2 or 6mm2, for some people even 2.5mm2 is enough, here you need to read the instructions for the specific model.

What about cable brands and quantities?

In general, most often in apartments they use PVA (it is flexible and easy to install) or VVG (cheaper, but stiffer, therefore more difficult to install). But as we follow our differentiation plan, keep in mind: On the lighting line, only PVA (or ShVVP) is suitable, because others are not thin enough. The same VVG has a minimum cross-section of 1.5 mm2 (and, as you remember, we justified that there is no point in laying a wire thicker than 0.75 mm2 for LED lamps). The choice of sockets depends rather on the preferences of the electrician; here we will not be categorical.

This way you will determine which wires you need. And calculate the footage of each type using those pencil lines drawn earlier. They are marked with what is what, so you won’t get confused. Only for each circuit add another meter and a half for input and connection of automation. So determine the layout based on the total needs of cables of different sections.

Where can you buy a cable that is not truncated, according to GOST, and not a fake?

It’s clear that it’s not on the market - because. extremely high probability of getting caught in a fake. And buying directly from the factory is often completely impossible. Optimally from an official representative, preferably with a long presence on the market, because Unfortunately, there are still plenty of one-day online stores, although there are significantly fewer of them than 5 years ago. One of the official representatives, and in fact there are not many of them, today is a specialized store of electrical engineering and cable products - AxiomPlus - where you can choose a cable according to detailed characteristics, and compare the price of trusted suppliers (read: manufacturers) and buy a good cable quality without fear for its authenticity.

Calculate - counted, but how to lay it? And what else will be useful?

Most often they are laid on the ceiling or floor. But still, more often the first option, because cable heated floors are popular in apartments and houses. That is, the wires run along the ceiling, and then go down the walls to the locations of sockets and switches. In this case, the cable on the ceiling is then covered either with sheets of plasterboard or with suspended ceilings. Along the walls, the cable route lies inside the groove, hidden under a layer of plaster.

Is additional corrugation needed?

Surely your electrician will say that you need to add corrugation for laying to the estimate. And here I would stop and reflect. I’ll say right away that the question “corrugation and its role in electrical wiring” leads to a separate topic with emotional reasoning. An ambiguous question, which is better to be solved based on the following considerations:

1. standards and regulations,
2. expediency.

In fact, the “Wiring Rules” do not mention corrugation itself. It regulates how cables should be laid in different situations and conditions, at what distance the cable should be from the combustible surface, where and how it should be located. It is not written that it should be specifically corrugated.

That is, in some cases, simply by the fact of its presence, it allows you to lay the cable in accordance with the requirements of the regulations. For example, the cable should be laid at a distance of 2 cm from the surface. It is certainly possible to achieve this with the help of corrugation - so that it hangs at a given distance, plus does not bend or break. But by itself it does not protect it from anything except a number of mechanical damages.

Perhaps, the main reason to lay the cable in a corrugated: If the pipes are hermetically sealed, then oxygen does not get inside. As a result, even if something happens to the cable inside, a spark appears and a fire occurs, the oxygen inside will instantly run out and self-extinguishing will occur. Sounds good, right? But keep in mind that the effect occurs only when the pipes are hermetically sealed. But in practice, more often than not, “if only it was”, they threw it, and everything looks more solid, the client is satisfied. And ask, what are they for? — 95% of electricians will find it difficult to give a substantive answer. You will hear versions like: “well, it should be in the pipe”, “that’s how everyone does it”, “it’s so beautiful.” So, if you are going to lay it in pipes, then it is logical to seal the ends. At the same time, be sure to ensure that the pipe is of good quality and without damage.

So, home wiring is safe even without the use of PVC corrugation when using a flame-retardant cable (like VVG) and hidden wiring (in grooves under a layer of plaster).

This is more of a visual solution and light additional mechanical protection (for example, a drywall worker will accidentally hit it with a knife and damage the insulation). And also easy to replace the wire if necessary.

Life hack: if considered in the context of mechanical protection, consider the option of cable channels. Purely for reasons of practicality. At least they are square; they are much easier to plaster in the walls than round corrugation. They come with consumables such as corners, turns, tees, which facilitate installation. And for safety purposes, this is the same (although, in truth, the cable channel is in fact more rigid and will protect against mechanical damage better than a corrugated pipe). In terms of money, with a cable channel it’s barely more expensive.

Think about impulse switches.

Especially for large rooms, rooms with complex configurations, long corridors. If the apartment is one-room, small, then there is no special meaning, but “the master is the master.” It happens that they do it in one-room apartments.

Why yes? This is a triple saving: on cables, on switches, on installation. It’s also reliable and repairable—if it fails, you can replace it in five minutes with a screwdriver. Not like for a crossover switch, where the repair floor needs to be redone in order to replace it.

Impulse switches are no longer uncommon. The idea naturally becomes popular, and demand, accordingly, gives rise to supply. You will find them in the catalogs of European manufacturers of electrical accessories, and a pulse switch costs exactly the same as a regular one. To go with it you need to buy a pulse relay, which is placed in the switchboard; its price is quite affordable, about 200-300 UAH.

And, of course, there is a huge amount made in China, but here you have to be more careful so as not to run into outright trash. That is, the price is already equal to the walk-through ones, but installation is easier and faster. As well as repair or replacement as necessary. Moreover, you can install them without restrictions on quantity - wherever it is convenient to use. Pulse relays and buttons allow you to create absolutely any combination of lighting system control. At least one zone from five-ten-fifteen places, at least five-ten-fifteen zones from one place. And you don't need to run around the apartment. For example, when leaving the house, by pressing one button near the front door, turn off the lights in all rooms.

But this is still a desirable, not a mandatory element. Let's now return to the really important object located near the front door - the distribution panel. His time has come.

How to choose and install an electrical panel.

You probably already realized that the resulting shield will be much larger than the 10-module boxes that are becoming a thing of the past. It is convenient to choose step by step according to the parameters.

Size— based on the total number of modules of all devices placed in the panel (read more below).

Life hack: be sure to provide some extra space on the DIN rail. This will be very helpful if in the future you have to install one or two more machines (for example, on a new split system) or an additional RCD in the children's room. In general, in principle, the more spacious the box inside, the more convenient the installation.

Material- plastic (generally more aesthetically pleasing and more convenient for an apartment) and metal.

Installation method- built into the wall or mounted. It is better to build it into an apartment, this is maximum compactness.

Life hack: if you are installing it in drywall, immediately buy special fastening tabs for mounting in hollow walls, so as not to have to worry about installation and not have to re-order.

Design- Do you want one with a transparent door or a solid one? Rely on your own understanding of convenience and aesthetics.

Some people want to take a look at the voltage relay installed on the DIN rail (I’ll definitely tell you about it) with an indication on the display and understand that everything is normal. For others, a white opaque door seems like a nicer option. By the way, about white. Not white, actually, alone.

If you want something more interesting, you are welcome - to the catalogs of European manufacturers. They make shields so cute that they can be considered as a highlight of the interior. For example, in the Volta series from Hager there are designs in blue, metallic, anthracite, even with mirror frames, to match the poster. Or models whose doors can be easily covered with plaster or wallpaper to completely blend into the wall.

Life hack: If there are small, curious children in the apartment (and are they not curious in principle?), a model of a shield with a lock will be very useful. Unlike a standard latch, it will reliably block access to the contents.

Whatever box you ultimately choose, be sure to mark each modular device in the panel - using a diagram (some box models have a clip on the door for storing it) or by marking it with special stickers.

For lovers of versatility, design and compact solutions.

She promised to tell me about an interesting solution. Appeared on the market hybrid shields from “classic” European brands (Hager, Schneider Electric). What is their valuable feature: in addition to the DIN rail, they have a mounting board for multimedia equipment. Imagine: you simply hide the router inside the built-in box, and do not “decorate” with it a wall or a cabinet in the corridor. Such shields are well ventilated due to their thoughtful design. Using the example of the Hager series of the popular Volta:

1. the classic built-in box VU36UA for 36 modules will cost almost a thousand hryvnia,
2. hybrid VU36NWB with the same capacity, but also with perforated mounting panels - one and a half thousand “with kopecks”*.

* prices for electrical panels were also taken from the AxiomPlus website (by the way, the official partner of the Hager company) and are indicated at the time of publication of this material (September 2019).

That is, in the second case, you will pay 1.5 times more, but will immediately receive a place in the main distribution panel adapted for the installation of computer network equipment (elements of the Smart Home system, alarm system). And the maximum possible civilized appearance of the hallway.

What is mandatory and what is advisable to put in the electrical panel.

Required elements for home electrical panel: circuit breakers(for short circuit protection) and RCD(from leakage currents). Select machines according to the calculated rated current value for each line. Or exactly the same load as expected on the circuit, or the rating next in the line in the direction of increase.

For example, let's take the water heater we reviewed. The line for connecting it at 6.5A (we calculated above) will require protection by a 10A automatic machine: 6A is already not enough, and the next one in the “ten” gradation (“eight” is a very rare denomination and is produced in industrial series). See the entire range of possible denominations in the online catalog (it’s convenient to choose there too).

Advice: you cannot take the machine’s nominal value “for growth”. In this case, the reserve is not only unnecessary, but harmful. The protection should work, turning off the emergency line BEFORE the cable starts to heat up.

For protection against leakage currents, set the RCD to at least the introductory(for the entire apartment) with a sensitivity to leakage current of 100 mA. It works as a fire protection (paired with a common input circuit breaker). For a small apartment, it is permissible to put 30mA at the input; it will work against both fire and electric shock.

Another one for the bathroom - preferably with sensitivity to leakage currents of 10 mA (plus the same for the children's room, if there is one or planned). 30mA is also allowed in the bathroom. If your budget is freer, then use an even more reliable option: for each room there is a separate 30mA RCD (except for the bathroom and children’s room, we do not change the indicators here), and then you will do without the introductory one.

Advice: follow the organization of the automation markings in the dashboard that are simple and clear at first glance. This will help you instantly navigate the “stuffing”.

A healthy solution is to install a voltage relay to protect equipment.

But only with occasional dips and surges in voltage in the sockets (if the problems are constant, then the relay will work non-stop). The relay will promptly de-energize the line in case of emergency voltage values ​​(i.e., beyond the safe limits for household appliances specified in the instructions). And will resume feeding after the situation stabilizes.

This opportunity is especially valuable for compressor equipment (refrigerators, air conditioners). Structurally, choose for the entire apartment (for installation in a distribution panel on a DIN rail) or for one electrical appliance - most often they choose a socket version for a refrigerator.

You need to select a relay according to its nominal value: according to the sum of the powers of the connected electrical appliances. For example, equipment (potentially switched on at a time) consumes a total of 11 kW; determine the nominal value using the formula from a school physics course:

I = U/R = 13000W/230V = 47.8A

then select the relay in the panel to the nearest value of 50A. It’s better to look at the models offered for sale with your own eyes to understand the dimensions. So, relays for 50A suitable for our example occupy 3 modules in width. This is important to know so as not to miss the capacity of the distribution panel.

Important: for one phase - one relay, for three phases - three single-phase relays.

To prevent natural force majeure, install a surge arrester.

I advise you to install surge protection (in other words, lightning protection) in the shield. The value of this device is that it minimizes the risks of lightning overvoltage (which, by the way, no circuit breaker can handle). This is especially important for residents of private houses, but even in an apartment it is better to be on the safe side and install a surge arrester of the most budget category D (price tag around $10) in your panel. After all, the lightning protection system from builders often does not stand up to criticism.

Important: set to zero and phase. For a single-phase network, a two-pole arrester is needed, for a three-phase network, a 4-pole one is needed.

At the same time, work on electrical fittings.

When you know how many sockets and switches there will be in the apartment, as well as their location, feel free to start looking for them. As for installation, you need to start by preparing the holes for installing socket boxes (standard depth 45 mm or “XXL” - 60 mm if it is supposed to contain a wire assembly).

To install several mechanisms in a row, choose ready-made socket boxes for 2-4 places or modular ones that are easily connected to each other - consult your specialist.

You probably already know, but let me remind you. Modern electrical accessories are structurally produced in two versions: assembled (economy segment) and disassembled (the vast majority of European series). The dismountable kit is a mechanism with a metal frame, attached to a wall socket, and a separate decorative frame attached to it.

So, start “beautifying” and installing decorative frames only after finishing the finishing work - on finished walls with wallpaper or painting.

For families with children, I strongly advise you to choose sockets with protection - with curtains (the holes are closed by default, and open only when both are pressed at the same time. Moreover, the pressure is equal to the same force as when turning on the pins of a plug. There are also options with covers.

In addition to the standard ones, consider the location of special multimedia and USB sockets, as well as for the thermostat.

What to consider in advance if you are planning a heated floor.

Water heated floors are prohibited in apartment buildings. But with electric, choose from three options:

1. heating cable - completely embedded in a cement screed (minus - it will eat up the height of at least 2-4 cm);
2. heating mats - will cost a little more than cable and mesh, but are easier to install and more compact in height;
3. heating film is the thinnest solution (from 0.4 mm) and the only one possible if raising the floor level is not possible.

In terms of power, the guideline is simple. For additional heating to increase comfort, 100-120 W/m2 is sufficient. Connect complete with temperature sensor and thermostat. Make the connection directly from the panel to a separate machine, no surprises here. Place the socket block on this system, and place the thermostat in it under the frame.

Is it possible to provide backup power in the apartment?

Yes, and this is done using an uninterruptible power supply. Let's talk about how to choose, connect, what to power, how long the resource will last. The beauty of a UPS is that, thanks to the built-in batteries, it will continue to operate the equipment connected to it for a certain time. Which one depends on the power of the UPS itself and how much you “hung” on it.

Typically, backup power is provided centrally at the level of an apartment building - new high-rise buildings are connected and put into operation with backup power. But don’t be confused: backup power is not autonomous. Those. They are powered from the neighboring area so that people do not have to sit in the dark for a long time.

But the issue of backup power in a single apartment is quite difficult. Let me clarify - difficulties arise when we are talking about autonomous power supply for the entire apartment. At a minimum, because the UPS for an apartment is quite large.

Thus, a LogicPower LPY B PSW 7000VA UPS with 5 kW output power and dimensions of 0.2 x 0.3 x 0.5 m weighs 31 kg, and models with a power of about 10 kW are completely long - up to 0.7 (or more) meters in one of the sizes. You understand, this is a large, weighty, and also noisy device. More suitable for a private home, where it is convenient to place it somewhere in the utility room. And in an apartment such a colossus will clearly become a foreign object. Plus it’s also expensive: the same 5000 W option will cost from 20 thousand UAH. and higher.

Why not a generator? You can read the subtleties and nuances in the article. But let's face it: the likelihood of vibration and noise disturbing both you and your neighbors is too high. And the neighbors can be nervous and may contact the law enforcement agencies. I’ll say right away that the idea is good in theory, but in practice it is small and difficult to implement.

But it is still possible to make a backup power supply at the initial stage of repair. Just approach the issue from the point of view of maximum rationality. What is missing most when the power goes out? Isn't it true, lighting in the dark? So let's power it up. Then, in the event of an accident, there will always be light in your apartment, without flashlights or candles, and this is already a plus of one hundred hundred points for the comfort of life.

How to choose an uninterruptible power supply “for the light”, I’ll show you with an example. Let's say we are talking about a two-room apartment with a total power consumption for lighting of 80 W (we take it for granted that LED lamps are installed everywhere). We take into account that, in principle, all the light bulbs never light up at the same time, and we take into account that a third to half of the power will be used, i.e. maximum 30-40W (and only if used on a grand scale). For such a situation, an inexpensive 500-750W UPS is sufficient. Let's see what he is actually capable of.

For example, a LogicPower LP 850VA UPS with 510 W output power and a battery life at full load of 10-15 minutes is enough for: 510 W / 40 W = 12.75. This is 12.75 × 10 minutes = 127.5 minutes. A full 2 ​​hours of autonomous lighting! And this is with a completely free mode of use. If you squeeze down to a couple of light bulbs, then half a day will be enough.

Life hack: no matter how tempting it may be to connect a refrigerator to the UPS, there is no point in it. Even with a bonus 20-30 minutes, you will not radically solve the situation with saving borscht and sausage. We can only hope for a prompt solution to the problem on the part of utility services.

Another task for which a UPS is indispensable is saving the computer and data on it in the event of a line failure. It is very advisable to provide a reserve of autonomous power supply if you often work using a PC (or carry out other operations such as storming enemy positions with tanks). Moreover, it will turn out quite inexpensively: if install only on a computer; in most cases, a UPS with a power of up to 300-500W is sufficient. But in terms of capacity, look at your needs - you will have time to complete the job correctly in 3-4 minutes, and to calmly complete the work task at hand, choose 30-40 minutes (look at the “autonomy at full load” indicator).

At the finish line - a new level of comfort and safety.

Now you will at least be able to speak the same language with the electrician, compare his recommendations and estimates with your own calculations and with a high probability you will make the wiring in the apartment really “for you.” As a maximum, by abandoning outdated methods of calculation and installation and installing electrical wiring in the apartment according to the proposed algorithm, you will receive decent bonuses:

• reliability and durability of the home power supply system,
• convenience of daily life as a result of detailed differentiation of lines - you can turn off any socket or lamp individually, otherwise without losing comfort,
• saving money, effort and time (mutually complementary parameters, right?),
• invulnerability of equipment to incoming lightning,
• Autonomous power supply for lighting and PC.

Do not forget that you cannot skimp on the quantity and quality of sockets, otherwise they will reduce the potential of the entire system. But now you know how to safely save on cables by rationally calculating its cross-section. Another important point: do not give in to the impulse to save money on purchasing elements of your wiring by purchasing it at the market or in dubious shops. The risk of running into a fake is too high, and the consequences of automatic devices or RCDs that do not operate on time are very dire. Take the trouble to find officials; you can’t skimp on safe electricity.

Of course, you don’t have to bother and do everything standard, the old fashioned way. But you will overpay for the absolutely unnecessary (read: useless) thickness of copper in cables for lighting and sockets. Plus you will get a “short” shield for 5-6 machines, which is inconvenient.

Unfortunately, so far the percentage of projects with progressive electrical wiring is more than modest. Neither homeowners nor, most sadly, electricians have “matured.” And one of the biggest difficulties today is to find a master who not only acts according to an ingrained pattern (albeit with all responsibility and with his hands in the right place), but has his finger on the pulse of electrical and lighting technologies. But there are no hopeless situations, and when repairs are needed, there are at least two ways out:

1. hire a real professional “for all the money in the world” and set a clear task for him, so that it is with the latest technology;
2. understand the subtleties and nuances on your own (a start has already been made, since you have finished reading this article). To explain to the electrician what you want, on your fingers. And then carefully monitor each stage of the implementation of your dream project. In other words, stand above your soul and control every day what is done and how.

I hope that after reading, you have become interested in trying to implement a project using the new capabilities and potential of modern lighting and electrical engineering. Wishing you easy and quick repairs and a comfortable life!

Many houses still have electrical wiring from Soviet times that has long failed to meet modern safety requirements. It was intended for only 4 kW, while now when designing it is necessary to calculate the wiring for 10 kW and above. New cables and wires can be installed, but the work is labor-intensive and complex. Installation of electrical wiring in a private house and apartment is done with your own hands only when a clear plan has been drawn up and there are step-by-step instructions.

DIY electrical wiring installation

Replacing wiring

If the electrical wiring in the apartment is made by hand from aluminum wire, its service life will be no more than 20 years. Do-it-yourself electrical wiring with new lines is only possible when the apartment is being renovated.

First of all, you need to think about the power and number of devices. The layout of the lighting system, sockets and junction boxes depends on many factors, in particular on how furniture, windows and doors are located in the apartment. An accurate wiring diagram must be created. The work stages should be as follows:

1. Electrical wiring design: drawing up a diagram; selection of brands and sections of wires, protective devices and illumination of each room.
2. Wall chipping; wiring; connection of cores in distribution boxes; installation of an apartment panel, installation of automatic machines in it and connection of an external network cable; checking the wiring.
3. Installation of socket boxes, sockets and lamps; connecting electrical appliances that do not contain sockets.

Electrical wiring project

The comfort and safety of using electrical appliances depends on a quality design.

Scheme development

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring installation can be done efficiently only when there is a power supply diagram for the apartment.

House power supply diagram

In the figure, the external wiring in the entrance panel is highlighted with a dotted line: grounding, main circuit breaker and RCD. Not a single power supply scheme for a house or apartment can do without an electricity consumption meter (E).

The phase and neutral wires are crossed out with two dashes. The protective conductor must be laid separately. Three-phase input is indicated by three dashes. Group machines are located in the panel. Separate lines with protection are made for the bathroom, electric stove and heater. You can choose the brand of RCD at your discretion.

In addition to the power supply diagram, electrical wiring is installed independently when there is an electrical diagram that is superimposed on the apartment plan and includes the following elements:

• switches;
• sockets;
• lamps;
• distribution boxes;
• apartment shield;
• terminals for connecting electrical equipment: forced ventilation systems, air conditioners, ovens, etc.;
• location of wiring laid through the premises.

The figure below shows a typical electrical wiring design.

Electrical scheme for a two-room apartment

The wiring diagram determines all repairs for the following reasons:

• any competent repair can and should be done with changing the wiring;
• subsequent work will not allow changing anything in the electrical part;
• high-quality repairs include effective lighting and convenient placement of sockets, switches and electrical appliances.

If electrical wiring is installed correctly, there will be no carriers, extension cords, or power adapters on the floor. When the repair is done correctly, there should be no mobile electricity transfer devices in the apartment. The exception is when connecting to power tool outlets.

If we consider the distribution of sockets in rooms, then the installation plan is mostly chosen very approximately and not always correctly. It is best to take them to different ends of the room. In this case, you need to draw up a plan in advance for the location of electrical equipment and furniture so that sockets and switches that require constant access are not blocked. If this does not happen, it means the wiring has been done correctly and the outlets are being used optimally. In this case, you will have to run new wires over expensive wall decoration.

You need at least two sockets for the TV, since it will require additional set-top boxes: digital or satellite, as well as video players.

At least three outlets must be installed for the computer and all the equipment necessary for it. Their height from the floor is now 30-40 cm. Thanks to this, the sockets are not visible from behind a table or sofa, which is aesthetically pleasing and practical. This means that the old openings will have to be walled up and new ones made, and a channel will need to be built to them.

Maximum energy consumption occurs in the kitchen. Separate cables must be laid for an electric oven, microwave oven and washing machine, since the power of each electrical appliance exceeds 1.5 kW.

An RCD is connected to each of these devices.

The work area requires a whole block of outlets, since the number of auxiliary electrical equipment is growing every year. For a small kitchen, two sockets will be enough, since many appliances will not fit there. It is convenient to place them above the tables so that they can be easily turned on. We also need to make sockets for electric ignition of gas burners and an additional exhaust fan.

The refrigerator only needs one outlet, to which you can easily connect. If any stationary electrical appliance is built into a cabinet, then it is convenient to use a separate machine located in the control panel. This will be a reliable guarantee that the connections will not short out if water enters.

The design transformation plan should not negatively affect the electrical safety of the premises. In an unexpected situation, designers will never be to blame. If the electrical wiring is done incorrectly, the person who had to install it is responsible for this.

Wire selection

Wires and cables are laid in walls (hidden wiring) or in boxes and pipes (open). Cable routing is allowed to be open, but they are more often placed behind partitions or in auxiliary rooms.

The most used cable for home electrical wiring is VVG or VVGng (less commonly, PUNP and NYM).

It is better to connect to the floor panel with an NYM cable, as it is more reliable in terms of fire safety. Despite its high cost, it is often used as a power cable when installing electrical wiring in a private house or apartment. It will not prevent them from replacing the cheap and fire-hazardous VVG input, for example, in a new building.

The VVGng cable does not propagate combustion due to the use of fire-resistant plastic compound. It is convenient to use for laying if it has a flat shape.

PUNP is the cheapest flat wire with 2-3 cores. It has insulation that loses its properties when heated. It is not recommended to include it in the home electrical solutions plan.

It is better to make the internal wiring of the shield using wires PV2, PV3 and PV4 with a diameter of 4 mm. To install the wiring, you will need plastic boxes, clamps, corrugated hoses and distribution boxes. It is advisable to purchase skirting boards with cable channels.

The entire load of the apartment or house falls on the input cable. Its cross-section is determined depending on the total power of all electricity consumers. Multiplying it by the utilization factor - 0.75, we find the power consumption. It is also necessary to take into account the reactive power consumed by the washing machine motor. To do this, its power is divided by the coefficient cos φ = 0.85. It should be taken into account that the water heater in the washing machine is an active and significantly predominant load. If fluorescent lamps are used, their reactive power is also taken into account (cos φ = 0.8).

When doing electrical wiring in a house with your own hands, you should take into account the reactive load, here there is much more of it than in an apartment: asynchronous motors of machines and pumps (cos φ = 0.85), welding transformer (cos φ = 0.5-0.7) , power tools.

Having established the total power in each circuit, using the table you can select a wire or cable of a suitable cross-section. At the same time, a reserve is made for possible additional connections in the future.

Table for selecting the cross-section of a copper conductor based on power consumption or current

Section, sq. mm	Core diameter, mm	Power/current
		One wire PV-1 or PV-3, kW/A	Two wires PV-1 or PV-3 when laid together, kW / A	Three wires PV-1 or PV-3 when laid together, kW / A	Four wires PV-1 or PV-3 when laid together, kW / A	One two-	One three- conductor cable VVG, PVS or PUNGP, kW/A
0.5	0.79	2,2 / 10	1,98 / 9	1,76 / 8	1,54 / 7	1,76 / 8	1,54 / 7
0.75	0.97	2,86 / 13	2,64 / 12	2,42 / 11	2,2 / 10	2,42 /11	2,2 / 10
1	1.13	3,3 / 15	3,08 / 14	2,86 / 13	2,64 / 12	2,86 / 13	2,64 / 12
1.5	1.38	4,4 / 20	3,74 / 17	3,3 / 15	3,08 / 14	3,52 / 16	2,86 / 13
2.5	1.78	5,94 / 27	5,28 / 24	4,84 / 22	4,84 / 22	4,84 / 22	4,18 / 19
4	2.25	7,92 / 36	7,48 / 34	6,82 / 31	5,94 / 27	6,16 / 28	5,28 / 24
6	2.76	10,12 / 46	9,02 / 41	8,14 / 37	7,7 / 35	7,7 / 35	6,6 / 30
10	3.57	15,4 / 70	13,2 / 60	12,1 / 55	9,9 / 45	11 / 50	9,9 / 45
16	4.51	19,8 / 90	16,5 / 75	15,4 / 70	14,3 / 65	15,4 / 70	13,2 / 60
25	5.64	27,5 / 125	22 / 100	19,8 / 90	17,6 / 80	19,8 / 90	16,5 / 75
35	6.67	33 / 150	26,4 / 120	24,2 / 110	22 / 100	24,2 / 110	19,8 / 90
50	7.98	41,8 / 190	36,3 / 165	33 / 150	29,7 / 135	30,8 / 140	26,4 / 120
70	9.44	52,8 / 240	44 / 200	40,7 / 185	36,3 / 165	38,5 / 175	34,1 / 155
95	11	63,8 / 290	53,9 / 245	49,5 / 225	44 / 200	47,3 / 215	41,8 / 190
120	12.36	74,8 / 340	61,6 / 280	56,1 / 255	50,6 / 230	57,2 / 260	48,4 / 220

Protective equipment is selected for the cable. If it can withstand a current of 25 A, then the RCD or circuit breaker is set to 16 A.

The power of the electricity consumption meter and the maximum consumption of electrical appliances must correspond to each other, otherwise the system will be de-energized. The characteristics of the meter indicate what energy consumption it is designed for.

Lighting selection

Illumination is measured in lux (lm/m2). The figure below shows indoor lighting standards.

Residential lighting standards

When installing electrical wiring in an apartment, it is necessary to include in the work plan the possibility of using additional lighting. In the bedroom or living room it is used to highlight interior details and zoning rooms. It has nothing to do with lighting standards, but sockets with easy access must be installed for it. In the kitchen, lighting is done in cabinets, as well as in the work and dining areas. There should be light in the bathroom where the washing machine is located or near the mirror. Switches and sockets are used with moisture protection.

Wiring

The plan for laying hidden wiring provides for its placement in grooves or under plaster. It is secured with plastic clamps every 0.4-0.5 m. For new distribution boxes, recesses are prepared and installed using alabaster. Old ones are also partially used if they are on the route. External wiring is placed in cable channels.

The laying is done strictly horizontally and vertically. Then there will be less chance of a self-tapping screw hitting the wire when drilling holes in the wall.

The ends of the wires inserted into the box are stripped and connected as required by the diagram. It is advisable to make connections using terminal blocks, soldering or crimping. Twisting is considered a temporary connection, but it can be further modified.

The entire electrical circuit and how the wiring will work in a private house or apartment depend on the distribution panel. It is placed near the front door. If the wall is made of plasterboard, choose a built-in version of the shield, and on reinforced concrete, install an external one. The location is made at a low height (about 1.5 m). The shield is fastened with dowel-nails or self-tapping screws. Placing the meter in the panel is not required, since it must be installed in the entrance, and in a private house - on an external power supply pole.

You can buy a shield in a store when you know how much equipment you need to put inside, while leaving some spare space. The standard panel contains DIN rail mounting points into which all electrical equipment can be easily inserted and fixed. The connecting wires inside are installed new and without twists. The phases and neutral wire differ in color. If it is the same, markings are made from colored tubes or using inscriptions. For input and output cables, a reserve length of at least 120 mm is left for possible repairs.

The connection of the input cable and the electricity consumption meter is carried out by electrical service specialists.

Installation of socket boxes, sockets and lamps

The center of the location of the first socket is marked on the wall, and then, if required, after 71 mm the middle of the next one is marked (standard center-to-center distance).

Installation of socket boxes and sockets

Making recesses for a socket box in a concrete wall is a labor-intensive process that requires a hammer drill with a special crown. Then grooves are made through them, and electrical wiring is laid. The best solution is to run separate wires to each outlet. A plug for the wires is cut out in the socket box and checked to see how it fits into the hole in the wall. Then the hole is primed, and a gypsum-based putty mixture is applied inside. Afterwards, the socket box, together with the wires inserted into it, is pressed strictly horizontally into the solution. The installation box should be flush with the wall surface. The grooves and gaps around the socket boxes are covered with plaster mortar only after they are completely fixed.

Sockets are installed with screws or self-tapping screws after the wall repairs and finishing are completed. In this case, the voltage in the supply wires is turned off. After installing the frames and panels of sockets, the supply of electricity is restored.

Plastic socket boxes can be used to install switches. Their installation is done in the same way.

Sockets in plasterboard construction are easy to install due to the fact that the material is well processed. Frame systems allow for hidden installation of communications with any number of wires.

Lighting fixtures are evenly distributed throughout the room. The classic solution is to hang a chandelier in the middle of the room. When installing it, you need to know that now it is necessary to connect a grounding wire to chandeliers and fluorescent lamps. When installing a stretch ceiling or a plasterboard ceiling, the chandelier is attached to the base through embedded elements. It seems that she is floating in the air.

Placing a chandelier on a suspended ceiling

Recently, spotlights that are placed in a suspended ceiling have become popular. Even before finishing it, it is necessary to determine the installation locations of the devices. It is rational to place the lamps at a distance of at least 1 m from each other, and 60 cm from the wall. However, they should not fall on the frame parts. The wiring is located between the base of the floor and the suspended ceiling.

Installation. Video

This video will tell you about installing electrical wiring in an apartment.

If you consistently go through all the stages from design to installation, then you can successfully do the electrical wiring in your apartment with your own hands. Such work should be included in the plan for the next repair and should be performed first. Step-by-step instructions are used for this. The convenience, reliability and durability of the electrical system depend on how correctly the circuit is drawn up, how the equipment was calculated, on the quality of the components and compliance with all norms and regulations.

Electricity has been and remains a valuable benefit for a person’s daily living needs and his comfortable living. Electrical wiring in an apartment is a source of lighting, heating, and energy supplier for the operation of all household appliances. Today, the cable line system, like any communication, has high requirements, which necessitates the need to study installation rules and gain knowledge about the basic elements of electrical engineering.

Modern wiring

Before laying the wiring, you should pay attention to the type of distribution board, which must match the load of electrical appliances. Apartment electricity meters must be protected from mechanical damage and easily accessible. To do this, they must be placed in wall niches and in locked cabinets.

Most often they occur as a result of damage at the junction of wires. It is also necessary to pay attention to the placement and number of sockets. To avoid short circuits, do not install them behind electrical equipment and try to keep them away from water ingress as much as possible.

A small apartment, where in one room there are more than two sockets intended for the use of powerful electrical appliances, is considered a violation of safety regulations and threatens the wiring with fire. This can be avoided if you know exactly what cross-section of cables is best suited for the electrical appliance and what size of wires is needed.

In order for the electrical system of the apartment to work for a long time and not need repairs, it is necessary to make a correct calculation of the power of the entire wiring system in order to prevent overload and emergency shutdown.

Therefore, when assembling an electrical wiring diagram, switches and sockets are connected to the phase wire break, and lamps and chandeliers are connected to the neutral wire. It is prohibited to use devices that do not have a technical passport.

Control methods

When drawing up an electrification project, it is necessary to take into account the architecture of the room and its area. So, for example, to create a cozy atmosphere in a one-room apartment, the amount of electricity consumed depends on the power of ceiling and additional lamps, and the number of sockets for connecting household appliances. It is important to maintain a functional and uniform distribution of energy sources.

When renovating a home at an early stage, it is important for owners to agree with professionals on the number of proposed sockets, switches, and ceiling lights. Before purchasing equipment for electrical wiring, it is necessary to accurately measure the area of ​​the room, calculate the required lighting in watts per m², and determine what cross-section of cables can provide current.

You can get the total amount of electricity consumed by all electrical appliances in the apartment using a table. The calculation indicator will allow you to determine what maximum power can be used in your home, and based on this, choose the type of wiring. If in the future you plan to use electrical household appliances such as an air conditioner, electric stove, home theater, this will help avoid problems with wiring in the future.

Important points

When drawing up an electrical wiring plan, you need to take care of the financial costs of electricity consumption. To do this, it is important to purchase lighting sources with maximum light output and a long service life. When choosing fuses and current meters, expect that all electrical appliances will work simultaneously.

When using extension cords and tees, in order to avoid short circuits or fires, it is recommended to use modern electrical devices with zero contacts and overload protection. When carrying out residential wiring, care and strict adherence to installation rules are required.

It is strictly forbidden to lay wires and cables in the same pipe. They are not allowed to touch sharp objects, hang them on nails, paint them, or whitewash them. Electrical wiring in the room is carried out only using junction boxes and socket boxes.

Using the services of professionals, adhering to the drawn up project, observing all fire safety standards, the electrification of any home will be considered viable, durable, and economical.

Any work related to electricity requires a serious, competent approach, therefore wiring diagram in the apartment, must be well thought out and executed with high quality. It is with the electrics that renovations begin in a new apartment or house. Any major home renovation should begin with it. The main stages of repair are as follows. First, wires are laid along all the walls, then they become overgrown primer, painting mesh,plaster, putty and wallpaper. Under this thick layer,

The electrical wiring will remain in place for decades. That is why, before installing it, you need to think very carefully about the future wiring diagram in the apartment.

Where to start

As a rule, at the first stages of renovation, people usually have little idea of ​​the final result. And for proper electrical wiring, it would be very desirable to present it. Since the functionality and logic of the location of sockets, switches, lighting, and, in general, all wiring in general will depend on this. The electrical wiring diagram in a private house or apartment should always start the same way, with drawing up an electrical plan. And that's why. Let’s say you made a repair, but didn’t think much about the end result, as the electrician advised, so you did. All is ready. We put the furniture in its place, arranged the consumer electronics, and what did we get? Catastrophe! All sockets turned out to be in cold reserve, one was blocked by a closet, another by a sofa, a third by a chest of drawers and a fourth by a bedside table, even near the TV and favorite stereo system, as by the law of meanness, there were no sockets within a radius of 3-4 meters. And here begins a very fun and exciting game called, scatter extension cords and pilots throughout the apartment. The question is, why did you make new electrical wiring so that you could then walk around and trip over extension cords? Of course no. And in an apartment, this is half the trouble, but an incorrectly executed electrical wiring diagram in a private house promises more global consequences. After all, if in apartments, wiring changes on average every 20-25 years, then in private residential buildings, much less often or never at all. And how many extension cords are needed for a two or three story house, and there are still more of them Do I need to buy it, how much money will it cost? And how many nerves will be spent every time, like you again, you'll stumble about the pilot wire lying on the floor.

What to do? Sit down and think calmly, decide on the arrangement of furniture and household electronics. Be sure to note what new electrical appliances you plan to purchase in the coming years. For example: an air conditioner, a dishwasher, a freezer, an electric water heater, an electric oven or hob, and so on, and where, after these acquisitions, existing cabinets, sofas and bedside tables can be moved. Consult with your family, wife and children; in practice, their advice turns out to be very useful.

Drawing a diagram - power part

The installation of electrical wiring from the very beginning to the end is described in as much detail as possible, with all explanations and pictures, in a step-by-step guide

So, you've made your decision. Now, you need to put all your ideas and plans on paper. We draw a plan of your premises. How to do it? Let's take a standard one-room apartment as an illustrative example. To complete the scheme we need:

• notebook sheet
• ruler
• pen
• colored pencils or markers

The diagram shows the location of the walls and doorways. No specific dimensions required, just a general idea.
Here we have a diagram of the apartment. Simple and clear.

To make it clear what we are talking about, I will number and label the rooms:

• Room 1 - hall
• room 2 - kitchen
• room 3 - bathroom
• room 4 - hallway

Now, we need to draw on our diagram the locations of furniture and household appliances.

Room 1 - hall: 1 - wardrobe 2 - sofa, 3 - chair 4 - stereo system (home theater) 5 - TV (plasma TV) 6 - computer	Room 2 - kitchen: 13 - kitchen set (work area) 14 - dishwasher 15 – refrigerator 16 - chairs 17 – table 18 - gas stove 19 - microwave oven
Room 3 - bathroom: 8 - wall cabinet 9 - toilet 10 - sink 11 - bathroom 12 - washing machine	Room 4 - hallway: 7 - cabinet

Items marked in red are consumers of electricity, which means we will need sockets in these places. Now, we simplify the diagram, remove the furniture, and draw designation of sockets on the diagram. This is the diagram we should get.
Now, let's clarify the conventions that we have used and will continue to use in our diagrams.

I will duplicate the signatures, from top to bottom:

• socket
• double socket
• single-key switch
• two-gang switch
• lamp, chandelier, light bulb
• junction box (distribution box)
• end of the wire for further connection of equipment
• power shield

Specific dimensions and locations of sockets will need to be indicated on the diagram as soon as you have finally decided on the placement of furniture and equipment.

Drawing a diagram - lighting part

In our example, all chandeliers and lamps will be located in the center of the room. Let's start drawing with room number 1 - the hall. The coordinates of the location of the lamps, length and width, if the exact dimensions of the room are available, can be indicated immediately. For our example, there are no specific dimensions, so we will take all the necessary measurements during the first stage of installation - marking. For example, I’ll show you how to find the center of a room. First, measure the width of the room and divide the resulting value in half. For example, if the width turns out to be 4 meters, we divide it in half, 4: 2 = 2, it turns out to be 2 meters.
Now, measure the length of the room and also divide it in half. For example, the length is 6 meters, divide in half, 6: 2 = 3, it turns out 3 meters. We know the coordinates of the middle. Using the given values, we mark the center of the room. I marked it with a cross.
Similarly, we mark out all the other rooms.
We divide the L-shaped room, number 4 (hallway), into two parts and also mark it out.
Now, we replace the crosses with the symbols of the lamps and get this picture.
To complete our diagram, we need to draw switches. To do this, we need to think again and decide, this time, on the interior doors. Namely, which side they will open to, left or right, and where, inward or outward. This is done so that some kind of switch does not turn out accidentally outside the door when the repairs are done fully ready. Usually, doors are opened at the smallest angle. Here, the usefulness of the space on the left and right is taken into account, but neither forget about the furniture, the door should not rest against it. So, we decided on the doors.

Now, we can draw the switches. As a rule, switches are located inside rooms. So that when you open the door and enter the room, you can immediately turn on the light, and turn it off when leaving. Control of the light in a particular room will be entirely in the hands of the person in it. We went to bed, turned off the light, but did not need to leave the room. Comfortable. The exception is damp and damp areas, such as the bathroom and toilet. Here, the switches are taken outside, since the constant entry of moisture into the switch will lead to its rapid failure.

We draw switches on the diagram using conditionaldesignations. Before you begin installing the electrical wiring, you will need to indicate on the diagram the specific dimensions of the switches, the height and distance from the edge of the door.

So, in the end we got two pictures:

1. socket layout diagram
2. diagram of lamps and switches

The first stage is completed. Based on its results, we have the first and main part of the electrical circuit.

Stage two, wiring diagram

To begin with, you need to calculate and think through the route of laying the wire in detail. To do this, you need to carefully examine the room in which installation is planned. Know exactly what finishing and finishing work will be done. What you should be interested in:
Suspended, stretch ceilings
Will the walls be plastered, if so, what will be the thickness of the layer?
For monolithic houses, you need to know which walls are load-bearing
The location of the floor slabs, how the channels run and how clean they are
Why is it important. I will explain with a specific example.
Let's say that in our one-room apartment, which we took as an example in the first part, suspended ceilings are planned. From an electrical point of view, this is simply wonderful. The fact is that now, if electrical installation work is carried out independently, you can save a lot of effort and time, as well as a lot of money, on materials. Savings occur due to the fact that now it becomes possible to choose a combined method of installing hidden electrical wiring.
We install the wire along the ceiling in a non-flammable corrugated pipe, we make descents to sockets and switches in vertical grooves.
Look at how many benefits we get using this installation method:
If the electrical wiring is being replaced, hidden, without updating the plaster layer, there is no need to do the lion's share of the hard work of making horizontal grooves for laying the wire. This type of preparatory work takes almost 50% of the time spent on the entire electrical wiring installation cycle.
There is no need to run wires through the ceiling slab channels. This laying method is used to covertly lay a wire to the center of the room to power a chandelier or lamp. We save effort and time, the channels of floor slabs are not always clean, in some situations you have to tinker.
We significantly reduce the amount of wire required. When laying it along the walls, you have to go around extra distances, installing it along the ceiling, you can lay it along the shortest path.
This example shows how the ratio of time and money spent on the entire installation cycle can change. That is why this issue should be approached so scrupulously.
What you should pay attention to if the installation of electrical wiring will be carried out using the standard installation method, hidden along the walls.
It is highly advisable to try to avoid concrete floors located above windows and doors. The first reason is that ditching them is very problematic. Second, in the future, incidents may arise when installing curtains for curtains.
It is necessary to correctly determine how the channels run in the floor slabs, since wires for chandeliers and lamps will be laid in them.
Calculate the location of distribution boxes. With the correct quantity and location, you can significantly reduce the amount of wire required for installation.
If the house is monolithic concrete, you should calculate the location of sockets and switches so that they do not fall on the supporting structures. Violating their integrity is strictly prohibited!
After we have taken into account all the points, we move on to sketching the wiring diagram. To do this, we use two schemes that we obtained in the first stage. We superimpose the diagrams on top of each other and get the overall picture.

Let's start with room number 1. Here, there will be standard ceilings for painting, therefore, the wires will be mounted on the walls, for the chandelier in the channel of the ceiling slab. In this room there will be two double sockets, one switch and a chandelier. We pull the wire, starting from the farthest corner, since it contains the first double sockets in the chain. We stop at the exit from the room, where the junction box will be located.

I would not recommend making sockets in a ribbon cable; this will significantly reduce the throughput capacity of the last socket. It will be more correct and reliable to make all connections in the junction box. Therefore, we run the wire directly, from each outlet, to the box. We sketch the route of the wire from the second double socket.

Now, we draw the route for laying the wire, from the chandelier to the junction box.

From switch to box.

All the wires are collected in one place, sketch out the location of the junction box.

Similarly, we sketch the routes for laying the wires of other rooms.
Electrical wiring in the kitchen. Here, it is possible to use the channel of the floor slab to shorten the route of the wire to one of the sockets. We pass the wires through the channel of the stove, thereby saving time and wire.