What is the distance from the window sill to the radiator. The height of the radiators from the floor and the distance from the window sill to the battery. Why is there a gap between the device and the wall?

All professional builders know that when installation work it is necessary to adhere to certain axiom rules. Some of these postulates are conditional, others are reflected in regulatory documents: GOST or SNIP. Recommendations and rules exist for all details, including the most insignificant ones. Heating appliances are no exception to the rule. In this article we will figure out what best height batteries from the floor.

The principle of placing the heating device

Arranging a heating system cannot be called a simple matter, so you need to choose heating radiators and pipes so that they are ideally suited to the characteristics of a particular room.

Important! If you are still at the stage of selecting all the components and clarify everything in advance technical nuances, read also our other articles on this topic:

As a rule, a heating radiator is installed in a place with maximum heat losses. In apartments and houses, such places are door and window openings, regardless of use innovative technologies. It is unlikely that it will be possible to install a radiator above the door, so radiators are mounted under the windows.

Important! To prevent the walls from becoming damp and to ensure stable air convection, it is necessary that the dimensions of the heating radiator be from 70 to 75% of the window dimensions.

Installation rules

When the radiator is located under the window, it is placed exactly in the center. In addition to the battery size, there are a number of requirements and recommendations regarding purchase and installation:

The heating device must be equidistant from the edges, exactly in the middle.
The height of the radiator from the floor should not be more than 150 mm to prevent the formation of cold zones above the floor. It is also not recommended to lower the battery below 80-100 mm from the floor, since cleaning in this area will be difficult.
The optimal interval from the radiator to the window sill is 120-180 mm. If you place it closer, you cannot avoid heat loss due to the entry of cold air from the window.
The distance between the wall and the back of the battery ranges between 30 and 70 mm - this is necessary condition for air convection.

Important! If you move the battery too close to the wall, the gap between the radiator and the wall surface will act as a kind of dust collector. Moreover, during heating season heating device may damage plasterboard wall coverings.

Installation work:

Before installing the battery, aluminum foil is glued to the wall surface. This needs to be done for increasing efficiency devices and improve heat transfer.
After this, you can mark the fasteners.

Important! When installing a radiator, it is necessary to control both planes - vertical and horizontal. The quality of heating largely depends on how vertical and horizontal are observed.

A medium-sized heater is hung on 2 brackets located under the outer sections.
If the battery is large, an additional bracket is needed strictly in the central opening.
Another necessary condition is a jumper (bypass) for single-pipe distribution, which makes it possible for independent regulation required quantity heat in the room. The advantage of the bypass is that its installation does not require the prior receipt of special permits. It is possible to install the jumper yourself.

Important! The rules for installing heating batteries are the same for both central and individual heating. To install new batteries, you need to coordinate this point with the housing office or management company.

Depending on the design of the selected equipment and stroke repair work You may also find our following tips useful:

Video material

We hope that the following tips will help you when self-installation devices for heating the room. The optimal distance from the floor to the heating radiator is one of the factors for a favorable microclimate in the house.

Almost all modern radiators and sectional heating radiators amaze with their high efficiency and efficiency, providing such indicators due to air convection and its natural flow through the heat exchange system. It is precisely because of these design features It is not enough just to buy highly efficient radiators and power them with coolant; it is necessary to provide conditions for convection - the natural transfer of heat by air. Let us indicate the required distance from the window sill to the radiator, as well as the main installation recommendations, as conditions for maintaining high efficiency.

Window sill board.

Installing marble window sills in an apartment or a private house, many focus only on the upper gap of 100mm, completely forgetting that when choosing an excessively protruding one, wide window sill, you can disrupt not only the thermal cutoff of cold air, but also change the overall air circulation along the windows. The window sill board should not block the radiator, creating a kind of niche for the battery, suggesting an enveloping movement of heat along it. Unfortunately, a specific size cannot be recommended, and the protrusion of the board should minimally interfere with air convection near the radiator and move it away from the glass.

Radiator mounting.

Before drawing the first mounting point on the wall, carefully study the included instructions for the radiator, as... Most manufacturers inform about the recommended installation gaps that ensure high heat transfer of this particular battery. In the absence of such recommendations, they use general ones, according to SNiP 3.05.01-85. "Internal sanitary systems":

The minimum distance from the bottom of the window sill to the radiator is 100mm, since reducing it reduces the heat flow of air.
From the floor to the bottom of the radiator, the gap is in the range of 100-150mm, and increasing the distance increases the temperature difference in the entire room, and decreasing it again reduces the intensity of heat transfer.
It is also important to take into account the distance from the wall to the radiator; it is made 25-30mm, because the rear surface also actively participates in heat transfer.
If the factory recommendations differ from SNiP, they are guided by the manufacturer who developed the battery.

The efficiency of its operation and comfortable temperature in room. For efficient work heating system It is important not only the correctness of its assembly, the quality of the equipment and the tightness of the connections, but also compliance with the standardized distances from the heating devices to the surrounding structures (floor, walls, window sill). It is especially important to maintain the distance from the battery to the window sill, because obstacles from above can interfere with the normal circulation of convection currents. We will list the standards for installing heating radiators in an apartment and a private house.

Today you can find radiators on sale in different options execution and from different materials.

They are also divided according to installation methods and come in the following types:

Floor-standing devices have special legs for installation on the floor in the room. In any case, such radiators are installed at some distance from the wall surface and protruding horizontal structures window opening.
Wall-mounted radiators are mounted on supporting brackets fixed to the walls of the room. They are usually mounted under window openings so that rising convection currents create thermal curtain in front of the window, because it is through the glazing that the room loses the most heat.

In any case, when installing a heating device, you must follow the rules for installing batteries. The easiest way is to maintain the required distance from the wall to the unit when hanging on walls, because in this case special brackets are used, which, due to their configuration, provide required clearance. When installing a floor-standing device, the distance will have to be adjusted manually.

Why is there a gap between the device and the wall?

It is not clear to a person who does not understand heating engineering why the correct installation of a heating radiator under the window is so important. You need to understand that if you hang the radiator incorrectly, this can lead to increased heating costs for the building.

External enclosing structures are constantly in contact with cold air masses, which is why they become very cold. If the radiator is mounted close to external wall, then most of the thermal energy will be spent on heating the building envelope, but not the air in the room. This is why it is so important to maintain the normal distance from the battery to the wall.

Important! Concrete structures have high thermal conductivity, so when installing a radiator without a gap, about 70% of the heat will be wasted. If the required distance is maintained, the air gap will not allow thermal energy to escape into the wall structure.

How to determine the exact distance?

To find out at what height from the floor to hang heating radiators in a private house, you need to refer to SNiP 3.05.01-85. In addition to this parameter, it also specifies other standard distances that must be observed when installing radiators.

Below are the most important standards:

Heating appliances are installed under window openings. It is desirable that the central vertical axis of the radiator coincides with the center of the window.
The battery should occupy no more than 70% of the width of the niche under the window (if there is one).
The height of the battery from the floor is 10-12 cm, but no more.
The normalized distance from the window sill to the radiator is 5 cm.
The heating device is installed at a distance of 20-50 mm from the wall.

When choosing optimal distance, on which the battery will be installed from the wall, various parameters are taken into account. When determining the gap, be sure to take into account the material of the enclosing structures and the dimensions of the window sill board. So, if the window sill is very short (that is, it does not protrude much relative to the wall), then there is no point in making the device protrude far beyond its limits, but still do not forget about the standardized distance from the wall.

Advice! The gap between the device and the wall can be reduced if the wall surface is additionally sheathed with foil insulation. Moreover, this material is placed with a reflective layer inside the room.

Installation of a heating device

Once we have figured out at what height to hang heating radiators, we can take a closer look at the process of installing them. During the installation process, do not forget to maintain the standardized distances. It is important to take this into account at the stage of installing fasteners in the case of using an attachment.

Installation of floor-mounted radiators

Floor heating devices are usually quite heavy and therefore cannot be hung on walls. Most often, such units are made of cast iron, because this material has good heat capacity. The device has removable or stationary legs that are fixed to the floor. When attaching the legs to floor covering take into account what material it is made of. You also need to consider the material of the subfloor. For fixing, depending on the material, wood screws, dowel-nails or fasteners with plastic dowels are used.

To prevent such a heating device from accidentally overturning, it is additionally secured with a wall bracket at the required height. To correctly calculate the installation location of the holder, measure the distance from the floor to the place where it is fixed on heating structure. After this, the installation locations of fasteners are marked on the wall surface, holes are drilled, fasteners are driven in and the holder is secured.

Wall Battery Installation

The new heater comes with brackets that secure it to the walls. They are immediately designed for the mass of a radiator made of a certain material. However, if you plan to add additional sections, you will have to purchase additional holders, because the weight of the device will increase. Otherwise, at the most unexpected moment, the unit may collapse and entail pipes, causing depressurization of the system.

Important! At self-production bracket, calculate the weight of the device not only taking into account the material from which it is made, but also together with the volume of circulating coolant. Otherwise, the holders may not be able to cope with the load, which will lead to an accident in the heating system of the house.

Before fixing the radiator to the wall, you need to accurately determine the installation location and maintain all standardized distances from adjacent structures and protruding elements.

To do this, do the following:

Find the center of the window opening and draw a conventional vertical axis through it. Mark these places on the wall surface under the window to make it easier to align the central axis of the device and the window.
We measure the distance from the bottom edge of the radiator to the top surface and add 120 mm to this number. We set this size aside from the floor upwards and draw a horizontal line. Moreover, its horizontalness must be checked using a level, since the efficiency of coolant circulation in the battery depends on this.
We measure the distance between the places for fasteners on the battery and divide it by two. We set aside the resulting value in each direction from the vertical axis on the wall. In other words, we put points on a horizontal line at the places where the brackets are installed and drill holes there. For work we use a hammer drill with a pobedit drill. We drive dowels into the holes and secure the holders with self-tapping screws.

Radiators can only be mounted on walls made of durable materials - brick, concrete. In loose porous bases, the brackets cannot be securely fixed. This applies to walls made of aerated concrete or plasterboard. In this case, it is worthwhile to provide in advance for the wall design additional load-bearing profiles to which the holders will be attached.

The window sill not only plays an important role for the window, but can also have an impact when installing radiators; it should also be taken into account when choosing curtains. We will look at all the features of choosing the correct height of the window sill from the floor and from the radiator. These installation dimensions are important for the heating system.

Product protrusion functions

The protrusion of the window sill may vary. There are practically invisible structures that do not stand out beyond the window opening; there are also wide, powerful window sills on which you can sit. The structure is needed to retain heat in the house; it can serve as additional support, for example, for installation flower pots.

You should choose a window sill carefully; it must match the design of the window, otherwise it may fail. Replacing a part without removing the glass unit is extremely problematic.

Primary requirements

The distance from the floor to the window sill may vary depending on the type of window. However, GOST provides for the permissible coefficient at which heat is best retained in the room, and the figure is 0.55 W/°C×m². This means that in order to achieve the desired effect, you need to use a plate that will have low thermal conductivity.

The distance of the radiator to the window sill plays an important role: in this case, there is SNiP, the main provisions of which require:

The window sill should have a slight slope into the room - at least 1˚.
There must be thermal insulation between the wall and the structure.
During installation, the height from the floor is taken into account. All window sills must be at the same level.
The length of the window sill should not be more than 3 meters.
The length is set relative to the window opening, with a difference of 4 mm.
The distance required to retreat from the battery to the windowsill should not be less than 8 cm.
It is recommended to saw off excess parts at room temperature.

Height calculation

The distance between the radiator and the window sill must be at least 10 cm, regardless of what type of heating device is used. You also need to take into account the height of the battery itself. It is necessary to retreat 8 cm from the rear. The battery itself should rise above the floor by 10 cm, that is, when installing a window sill from the floor according to SNIP, you will need to retreat 70-80 cm.

An important role is also played by how the window sill protrusion will be: it can move significantly away from the wall or be invisible. If there is no radiator under the window, it is not necessary to meet any requirements, but if heating is present, the projection must be strictly regulated. The task of the window sill is to redirect heat flows. Without it, they will rise upward, and proper heating of the room will not occur, since some of the heat will evaporate and be distributed on the ceiling.

Poor convection can also be caused by a window sill that is too wide. It will not allow warm air to escape; as a result, condensation will begin to accumulate on the window, since the main air flows will go up, and some of them will get stuck under the window, heating the atmosphere. In this case, it is very important to calculate the distance from the window sill to the heating radiator, both in height and how much of a protrusion can be made. You can avoid the problem described above by using a slab that does not extend beyond the wall by more than 8 cm.

Tip: when calculating the dimensions, you need to take into account the level of the wall with decoration.

The best option is a solution in which no more than 10% will be retained in the window niche. warm air. To do this, the window sill should not protrude more than 6 cm beyond the radiator, but it should not be shorter than the heating device. If design solution The premises require the installation of non-standard wide structures; ventilation holes must be provided in them. Their size must be sufficient for proper air circulation.

The distance between the window sill and the heating radiator will remain standard in this case. As for the thickness of the structure, it usually does not exceed 4 cm, but this indicator is not a standard. A thinner slab has a risk of deformation caused by warm air currents. The thicker one has more mass and costs more. If such structures are not provided for by the design plan, there is no point in installing them. detailed instructions for installing a window sill.

Is clearance necessary?

Some window owners believe that the window sill goes deep under window frame, However, it is not. The distance between the window and the window sill is approximately 10 mm. Otherwise, the structure may become deformed. The fact is that under the influence of warm air, the material from which the slab is made expands. The gap is left so that the structure can accept the required form without receiving any damage. Visually, this technique is invisible.

The distance of the window sill curtain also plays a role. In order for the curtains to move without clinging, without leaving marks on them, and for warm air to circulate freely, the distance must be at least 5 cm.

Conclusion: it is not always possible to apply the standard distance from the floor, radiator, curtains to the window sill, but you can find a way out by observing certain requirements.

Video: Installation of heating radiators (batteries)

sdelalremont.ru

Rules for installing heating radiators, SNiP, installation and placement

A heating system should be present in every home. At the same time, it is extremely important that at each stage of its installation all rules for installing heating radiators are strictly followed - violation of any of them can lead to serious disruptions in the operation of the system and even lead to equipment damage.

Installation of control heatsink

Before you begin the process of installing heating radiators, it is extremely important to determine the connection diagram. There are several options for how to do this; this is also indicated in the snip. Each of them has both certain advantages and disadvantages. Connection methods:

side connection. This method is perhaps the most common, since it is it that allows for maximum heat transfer from radiators. The installation principle is quite simple - the inlet pipe is connected to the upper radiator pipe, and the outlet pipe is connected to the lower one. Thus, both the inlet and outlet pipes are located at one end of the battery.
diagonal connection. This method is used primarily for long radiators, since it allows for maximum heating of the battery along its entire length. In this case, the inlet pipe should be connected to the upper pipe, and the outlet pipe to the lower one, which is located on the other side of the battery.
bottom connection. Least effective method connections (compared to the side method, efficiency is 5-15% lower), used primarily for heating systems located under the floor.

Options for connecting heating radiators

So, how to hang radiators correctly? You have purchased radiators and even decided exactly how they will be installed. Now you need to familiarize yourself with all the requirements of SNIP - and you can begin installation. It's actually quite simple.

Most radiator manufacturers, trying to make life as easy as possible for users, include with each battery detailed instructions and rules for installing heating radiators.

And they really need to be followed - after all, if the radiator is installed incorrectly, if it breaks, repairs under warranty will be denied.

Heating radiator installation diagram

If you want to protect the device from scratches, dust and other damage that may occur during installation, then during installation you can not remove protective film- this is allowed by the rules for installing heating radiators. The single most important requirement that must be strictly followed is strict adherence to the indentations necessary for normal circulation of heated air. Here are the rules for installing heating radiators to indentations put forward by SNIP:

According to current standards, the distance from the window sill or the bottom of the niche should be at least 10 cm. It should be taken into account that if the gap between the radiator and the wall is less than ¾ of the depth of the radiator, the flow of warm air into the room will be much worse.
Equally strict requirements are imposed on the installation height of radiators. How to properly place heating batteries? So, if the distance between the bottom point of the radiator and the floor level is less than 10 cm, then the outflow of warm air will be difficult - and this will negatively affect the degree of heating of the room. The ideal distance is 12 cm between the floor and the radiator. And if this gap is more than 15 cm, then there will be too large a temperature difference between the upper and lower parts of the room.
if the radiator is installed not in a niche under the window, but near the wall, then the distance between the surfaces should be at least 20 cm. If it is less, then air circulation will be difficult, and in addition, back wall Dust will accumulate on the radiator.

Installing heating radiators against the wall

In order to get the maximum useful information regarding the installation of radiators, you can use our resource. You can find many valuable advice and recommendations on how to properly install a heating radiator.

Heating radiator installation procedure

It should be noted that SNIP also prescribes the procedure for installing the radiator. Using it, you can do everything correctly:

First of all, you need to determine the location for the fasteners. Their number depends on the size of the battery, but even if the smallest radiator is installed, there must be at least three brackets;
The brackets are being attached. For reliability it is necessary to use dowels or cement mortar;
The necessary adapters, Mayevsky tap, plugs are installed;
Now you can begin installing the radiator itself;
The next step is to connect the radiator to the inlet and outlet pipes of the system;
Next you need to install the air vent. According to modern SNIP, it must be automatic;
After correct installation heating radiators will be completely completed, you can remove the protective film from the radiators.

If during installation heating radiators If you adhere to all the rules and requirements described above, then in this case you will for a long time enjoy the warmth that comes from your correct installation of radiators and a well-made heating system.

otoplenie-doma.org

Rules for successfully installing batteries in the house. Having correctly chosen the power of heating radiators, we often do not get the desired heat in the house. What does their effective work?

In order for the heating system to work correctly and efficiently, radiators must be correctly placed and mounted. Regardless of what heating system you use (autonomous or centralized), the rules for installing radiators are the same.

Location of heating radiators

The radiator must be installed so that it works with 100% efficiency. The best option installations - under the window. The greatest heat loss in the house occurs through the windows. Location heating batteries under the window prevents heat loss and condensation on the glass. At large windows use radiators 30 cm high, or place them directly next to the window.

The recommended distance from the floor to the radiator is 5-10 cm, from the radiator to the window sill - 3-5 cm. From the wall to the back surface of the battery is 3-5 cm. If you plan to stick some kind of heat-reflecting material behind the radiator, you can reduce the distance between wall and battery to a minimum (3 cm).

The radiator must be installed strictly at right angles, both horizontally and vertically - any deviation leads to air accumulation, which leads to corrosion of the radiator.

Pipes in the heating system

Advice for those who have central heating in their home. Typically for heating systems apartment buildings are used metal pipes.

If the apartment has a metal riser pipe, you cannot switch to polypropylene heating pipes!

IN central heating Changes in coolant temperature and pressure often occur - apartment wiring and radiators will fail within a year.

Also, never use unreinforced polypropylene pipes– they are designed for use for water supply and are destroyed at a coolant temperature of +90°C.

Fittings for heating radiators

In order to make you comfortable during the heating season, you need to install thermostats on each radiator. This way you can save money by shutting off batteries in unused rooms and control the temperature in the house. You can purchase programmable thermostats - they will turn the radiator off/on, maintaining the required temperature.

Installation of thermostats on each radiator is possible in two-pipe system heating. In a single-pipe system (in apartment buildings and high-rise buildings) for thermoregulation, a jumper is installed in front of the battery - a bypass. A bypass is a pipe installed perpendicularly between the supply and return. The bypass pipe must be smaller in diameter than the pipes used in the heating system wiring.

A Mayevsky valve is also installed on the battery - a valve for removing air from the system. These elements simplify radiator management and facilitate their repair.

Obstacles to room heating

Effective heat transfer is also affected by barriers that we ourselves create. This may include long curtains(70% of heat loss), protruding window sills (10%) and decorative grilles. Thick floor-length curtains prevent air circulation in the room - you simply heat the window and the flowers on the windowsill. The same effect, but with less consequences, is created by a window sill that completely covers the battery on top. Dense decorative screen(especially with a top panel) and placing the battery in a niche reduces the efficiency of the radiator by 20%.

Correct installation Heating radiators are one of the main components of the high-quality functioning of the heating system as a whole. You should not be led by savings at the expense of comfortable heating.

budmaydan.com

Distance from window sill to radiator

Almost all modern radiators and sectional heating radiators amaze with their high efficiency and efficiency, providing such indicators due to air convection and its natural flow through the heat exchange system. It is precisely because of these design features that it is not enough to just buy highly efficient radiators and power them with coolant; it is necessary to provide conditions for convection - the natural transfer of heat by air. Let us indicate the required distance from the window sill to the radiator, as well as the main installation recommendations, as conditions for maintaining high efficiency.

Window sill board.

When installing marble window sills in an apartment or private house, many focus only on the upper gap of 100 mm, completely forgetting that by choosing an overly protruding, wide window sill, you can disrupt not only the thermal cutoff of cold air, but also change the overall air circulation along the windows. The window sill board should not block the radiator, creating a kind of niche for the battery, suggesting an enveloping movement of heat along it. Unfortunately, a specific size cannot be recommended, and the protrusion of the board should minimally interfere with air convection near the radiator and move it away from the glass.

Radiator mounting.

The minimum distance from the bottom of the window sill to the radiator is 100mm, since reducing it reduces the heat flow of air.
From the floor to the bottom of the radiator, the gap is in the range of 100-150mm, and increasing the distance increases the temperature difference in the entire room, and decreasing it again reduces the intensity of heat transfer.
It is also important to take into account the distance from the wall to the radiator; it is made 25-30mm, because the rear surface also actively participates in heat transfer.
If the factory recommendations differ from SNiP, they are guided by the manufacturer who developed the battery.

Sooner or later, any heating radiator will have to be replaced. This happens if it fails and begins to leak. Or if on it inner surface Over many years of operation, so much limescale deposits have accumulated that it cannot cope with the heating function. This requires high-quality installation of heating radiators that meets the standards established by SNiP.

In a private house, installation can be performed by the owner. Even if a leak is detected when starting the system, it is easy to turn off the individual heating to eliminate the defects. IN multi-storey buildings everything is more complicated. If coolant begins to leak out at the junction of pipes and radiators 2-3 weeks after the start of the heating season, it will be difficult to turn off the heating system of the entire house. In addition, neighbors will suffer due to lack of heating or due to flooding.

Plumber specialists know how to properly install heating radiators in an apartment, so it is better to entrust this work to them.

Even if an accident occurs after the system is launched, they will be held responsible for what happened. They will have to fix it at their own expense, as well as pay for the damage caused to the residents. If the installation of heating radiators carried out by specialists turns out to be too high for the consumer, the work will have to be done independently. To do this, you need to read the instructions supplied with the new heating device and study the installation diagram.

Before installing heating radiators with your own hands, read the following standards SNiP 41-01-2003 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”:

After purchasing a heating radiator, installation is carried out depending on the type of system and connection diagram.

Types of heating systems

The level of heat supply directly depends on the type of heating system in an apartment or house. According to the pipe connection diagram, 3 types of systems can be distinguished: one-pipe, two-pipe systems and using a manifold.

Single pipe system

The single-pipe system is installed in such a way that the coolant flows through one pipe (sequentially) into each radiator, after which it cools down and returns to the boiler. This system is the easiest to install. Installed everywhere in multi-storey buildings. Its disadvantage is that each subsequent radiator receives cooler coolant and warms up the room worse. There is also no possibility local repairs one battery. If necessary, you will have to turn off the entire riser.

Two-pipe system

assumes the supply of hot coolant to each radiator separately ( parallel connection), one pipe at a time. Thus, they all warm up to the same temperature. And the cooled liquid enters a separate return pipe and moves to the boiler for reheating. In this case, the rules for installing heating radiators are simplified. After all, for replacement it is possible to disconnect only one old radiator from the system.

Collector system

The collector system is very complex. It is intended for cottages. It involves a large consumption of pipes, since separate pipes are supplied to each battery. Only professionals can install such a system.

Connection diagrams

Before installing a heating radiator yourself, decide on the method of connecting it to the network. The most commonly used schemes are:

You can ask the specialists how much it costs to install a heating radiator, and perhaps agree to their services. Experienced craftsmen They will tell you which connection scheme to choose and what auxiliary elements will be needed for installation.

Installation

Performed at any time of the year. You cannot install more than twelve battery sections in a system with natural circulation of liquid, and more than 24 with an artificial one. Before installation, you need to purchase tow or sealing tape, sealant, shut-off and temperature control equipment, as well as fasteners made of the appropriate material, for example, brackets of a certain length, bends different sizes. The thread size of the pipes must correspond to the size of the batteries and pipes.

Because the additional details are not cheap, and the cost of installing heating radiators is also not low, hiring specialists can be problematic. In addition, this work also includes the dismantling of heating radiators, the price for which, although not high, still affects the overall cost. And therefore, in any case, it is better to do the dismantling yourself, so as not to overpay.

To do this, first drain the coolant from one radiator, which is changed if it can be localized by closing the valves at the inlet; or from all single pipe system. When performing work in apartment building You should contact the housing department so that its employees drain the water from the riser where the replacement is being made. After this, you can remove the old radiator.

To install a heating radiator yourself, you first need to install shut-off and control equipment on it.

And also install a Mayevsky tap, with the help of which it will subsequently be possible to bleed air from the batteries. Brackets are installed on the wall, after carefully marking the installation location. It is believed that to install an average-sized radiator, you will need 2-3 brackets to hold its upper part, and 2 to fix the lower part.

The fasteners are leveled and the battery is installed on it. If the brackets are installed correctly, it should fit snugly against the supports and not wobble. A small detail: the heating device is installed with a small slope (0.3 cm for each meter of its length) so that the Mayevsky tap is located near the highest point. The actual installation of the heating radiator, the price of which is reduced thanks to self-installation, begins with unscrewing the plugs from the battery.

If, install a bypass with a valve. With a two-pipe system, only the outlet on which the valve is installed is connected. Then the pipes are connected to the pipes. For this you need torque wrenches. You will have to buy them, which will increase the cost of installing a heating radiator, but you can’t do without them. They will allow you not to overdo it when tightening nuts and other fasteners, since the instructions for each auxiliary element indicate the permissible torque.

A loose connection is also dangerous due to the possibility of leaks. The joints are sealed with tow moistened oil paint, or a special seal. They can also be boiled. After installation, the connections need to be crimped. It will be carried out by a called plumber, since buying a crimping tool is expensive. At the end of the work, you need to carry out a test run of the system, and, if necessary, immediately eliminate any defects.

Having familiarized yourself with how to properly install heating radiators, you should think about whether you need to do this work yourself. If you don't have installation skills heating devices, it is better to hire professionals, having previously found out the prices for the installation of heating radiators in the locality where they will be installed.

If aluminum or are installed, leave them in the packaging until installation is complete to avoid damaging the surface in case of an accidental impact. It is noteworthy that the installation of cast iron heating radiators also has its own characteristics. They are heavy and require installation. more brackets. In addition, these parts should be embedded deeper into the wall, especially if it is brick.

If the wall is made of plasterboard, the heavy battery is not hung on it, but is installed on special floor stands, and a couple wall brackets needed to prevent the structure from falling. In addition, if the mounted device is cast iron, then its connection to the pipes is made welding machine. That is, in this case, the installation of heating radiators by gas welding is almost always used, and this should not be neglected.

From all of the above it follows that the installation of heating batteries can be quite simple if you initially prepare well for it and study all the instructions supplied with the device. After completing all procedures in the established sequence, the heating system will be durable and will last for decades.