Almost everyone knows the situation: due to a damaged faucet or a burst flexible hose, you need to spend a lot of money on repairs both in your apartment and in your neighbors’ apartments flooded with water. But as a result, it was necessary to promptly turn off the ball valves, which are now usually equipped with water supply connections to our apartments.
I want to tell you about a simple one I came up with mechanical system, which will automatically turn off the taps at the first sign of a leak and save the apartment from flooding.
Principle of operation. Externally, the device for automatically turning off the water somewhat resembles a mousetrap. A spring is attached to its wooden base, held in an extended (cocked) position by a paper tape connected to the spring through an angular lever (photo 1). When wet, the tape breaks under the action of the spring, the spring compresses and pulls the cable, which closes the ball valve.
The system is easy and quick to install and even easier to dismantle. The “mousetrap” itself is installed on the floor in secluded places (in the basement of the sink cabinet or under the bathtub).
The system allows you to shut off the water manually. The handle attached to the ball valve is turned to the side, and the cables remain motionless.
Manufacturing. To do this, you will need the usual tools: a vice, hammer, electric drill, grinder or hacksaw, sharpening machine, screwdriver, pliers.
The materials needed are: small pieces of stainless steel sheets and ordinary steel, a spring, cables, a wooden block, screws, nuts, screws, a piece of paper, push pins.
I bought the door spring at a hardware store. I cut a strip of stainless steel from the wall of an old tank washing machine. I bought the cables at the Moto-velo store, removed the excess part of the braid from them on sharpening machine, and treated the cables themselves with household lubricant.
The base of the device is made of painted wooden block dimensions 360x50x30 mm. One end of the beam should be cut at an angle of 93° to the top edge.
In Fig. 1 shows scans metal parts systems (fold lines are shown in red).
I cut out parts No. 1 and 1a from steel sheet 4 mm thick, 16 - from a sheet 3 mm thick. These parts are mounted on ball valves instead of standard handles (photo 2).
Parts No. 2 and 2a (brackets) are installed on the pipe near the ball valve; they serve to fix the cables (photo 3, 9). It must be borne in mind that the brackets can only be screwed to a metal pipe.
Part No. 3 also holds the cable, but it is only attached to the wooden base of the product. To give this detail the required form, I used an oak block measuring 150x20x50 mm as a template. Having bent the workpiece according to the template, I pulled out the block and made cuts on the part with a grinder for attaching the cable.
Part No. 3 (photo 4, 5) must be made of of stainless steel, but for testing, it’s better to first make it out of cardboard.
Moving part No. 4 (angular lever) is connected to a spring and a cable on one side, and a paper tape is attached to it on the other. This lever is also made of stainless steel. When the holding paper tape breaks, the part of the lever that is bent at an angle of 93° slides off the end wooden base, is pulled by a spring through part No. 3 and sets the cable in motion (it is attached to part No. 4 using parts No. 4a and 46). And thanks to the angular lever, the load on the paper tape created by the spring is reduced by about 10 times (photo 6,7).
Part No. 5 (hook) is used to hook the spring - the narrow tail of the part needs to be bent for this. Two holes are drilled in part No. 5: the first is for cocking (by inserting a finger into it, it is easier to tension the spring), the second is for fixing it on a block. Any screw screwed into the block can serve as a hook. For this purpose, I used a hook that was sold complete with a door spring.
Installation, adjustment and maintenance. The ball valve and mousetrap can even be located in different rooms. One tap can be connected to cables from two “mousetraps” installed in different rooms. The system will react when one of them is triggered.
The cables must have no more than one bend at an angle of 90° and a length of no more than 2 m.
Ball valves made by powder metallurgy go on sale, but they can cause many problems - their bodies often crack. Such taps cannot be used at all, especially in my system, where they close automatically. I myself only use brass taps. In addition, to prevent taps from sticking, they need to be closed and opened once a month, otherwise over time they begin to close very tightly.
When setting up and adjusting the system, I used a device made from a piece of pipe (just over 20 cm long) with a ball valve screwed onto it. With this device it is easy to check the operation of the entire mechanism before installing it in the apartment. It will also be useful when drilling holes to connect parts No. 2 and 2a. To do this, you need to clamp these parts in a vice with a pipe pre-inserted between them. After this, you can drill holes in two parts at once.
The blank for the base of the device can be taken of a greater length than indicated, and after adjustment, the excess part of the bar can be cut off. In many ways, the length of the bar will depend on the length and elasticity of the selected spring. When stretched, the spring force should be about 10 kg, at the end of actuation - 4.5 kg. The paper tape should be subjected to a constant force of 1 to 1.5 kg (another value can be provided, but then the angle of 93° will have to be changed). To measure the force, I used a household spring scale.
I tested the mechanism in the bathroom. When I wet the paper tape, everything worked properly - the ball valve was automatically closed.
After the mechanism operates, you need to wipe it with a napkin and only then refill the fresh tape.
Making homemade faucets
To create homemade faucets, you need valves, pipe cuttings, fittings, and a shower net. If we compare homemade mixers (Fig. 68, 69) with factory standard ones, then the former, of course, are larger and rougher. The coating on them is colorful. If the pipes are galvanized, then no anti-corrosion layer is needed at all. Such homemade faucets are not suitable for comfortable bathrooms.
Rice. 68. Homemade shower faucet with a stationary shower tube and mesh:
1 - pipe; 2 - valve; 3 - drive or barrel; 4 - tee; 5 - shower net; 6 - shower tube
Rice. 69. Homemade bath and shower faucet with stationary shower tube and spout:
1 - shower tube; 2 - valve; 3 - drive or barrel; 4-cross; 5 - spout
Rice. 70. Homemade shower nets:
A- by type of diffuser garden watering can: 1 - clamp; 2 - shower tube; 3 - diffuser tube; 4 - diffuser mesh; 5 - cone; 6 - nut; 7 - washer; 8 - bolt; 9 - rubber strip
b- from tin cans or one can: 1 - shower tube; 2 - lock nut; 3 - washer; 4 - rubber gasket; 5 - jar without bottom; 6 - holey bottom
V- from the sawing part of the factory flexible hose: 1 - shower tube; 2 - coupling; 3 - pipe.
However, when they are sometimes installed in the kitchen or bathroom with a centralized supply of hot and cold water, the question arises, why add a couple more valves if at the entrance to an apartment or individual house there is already a valve for each “grade” of water. Alas, it is impossible without valves, which form the simplest mixer (Fig. 68). Their absence will cause the so-called “pumping”: hot water will flow into cold water. Neighboring apartments, nearest small houses will get lukewarm water instead of hot.
In a complicated mixer (Fig. 69), the bottom valve that releases water into the bath or sink can be completely replaced with a tap (Fig. 73).
However, an intermediate piece is needed - a square, into which we will screw the tap (Fig. 74).
Particular attention should be paid to the difference between a tap and a valve (Fig. 75).
The crane has only one external thread for connection through a coupling or elbow to a pipe. The valve body has two internal threads for screwing in pipes. When one pipe is screwed in, the functions of the tap and valve are the same. But only the tap turns the stream of water, and only the valve is placed between two pipes.
The numbers and arrow are cast on each valve body. The number 20, for example, means the diameter of the free space that remains for the passage of water after screwing the pipe into the body.
The arrow on the body must necessarily “look” in the direction of water movement. If the valve is mounted on pipes contrary to the direction of the arrow, then large hydraulic resistance occurs. They are very annoying, reducing water pressure. This is very noticeable upper floors houses during peak water withdrawals, and at garden plot- during watering, etc.
However, sometimes they “forget” to cast an arrow on the valve body. What to do? They look into the ends of the valve body, where the pipes will be screwed in later. Water should enter through the pipe into the end where the valve, rubber gasket and nut are not visible. To make these details more visible, the rod is screwed in or out slightly using the flywheel.
The garden watering can dissipator is suitable as a shower net in the mixer. The absence of a garden watering can is not a problem. The diffuser is made of large tin tin cans. Its parts (Fig. 70a) are connected with a special seam, called a “lying seam” in roofing. The seam is soldered or painted oil paint, which prevents leaks and provides sufficient pressure in numerous holes.
Streams of water from the seam, shooting like a fountain into the ceiling under strong water pressure, will also not cause delight in any shower owner.
Two or three cuts on the diffuser tube before rolling are made on the side that is not soldered. It is preferable to make cuts using roofing scissors or, in extreme cases, large tailor's scissors. Using other types of scissors will cause them to become dull. A chisel perfectly cuts through tin on a board, but this is too labor-intensive technology for producing a diffuser.
The end of the shower tube is wrapped with a strip of thin rubber. The disintegrator tube is inserted with cuts onto the prepared end of the shower tube. The clamp tightens the cuts, securing the diffuser to the shower tube. Water pressure will no longer tear off the diffuser.
Two tin cans are also the “starting product” for a shower net (Fig. 70b). Although a shower net made from one can has a more attractive appearance: the soldering is less noticeable.
The design of the shower net begins with cutting out the lid when opening the can. A hole in the center of the lid is cut so that the end of the shower tube fits into it with some difficulty. This hole is not easy to cut. Numerous holes along the intended contour, punched with a nail, a screwdriver with a metal handle or a chisel, will speed up the work. It is clear that the bridges between the nail holes are removed with a chisel or a screwdriver blade.
Use washers, gaskets and locknuts to secure the cap to the end of the shower tube. Holes forming a grid are punched in the bottom of the remaining tin can with walls or in a second tin can. Operations to “organize” the grid will be easier if you place a tin can on a log. Then they hammer and nail outer side bottom.
The disadvantage of the tin can shower screen design is that to connect its parts you need to unscrew the shower tube from the faucet. Why not do soldering on weight and at height?!
There is no need to “invent” the shower net if you have parts from a flexible hose from a long-standing factory production (Fig. 70c) plus a pipe and union nut from a standard mixer. It is important that the threads of the pipe and the coupling match, and that the union nut is screwed onto the corresponding thread of the special nut. If this does not happen, then either look for a pipe and a union nut with “related” threads, or grind them to lathe parts with the required thread.
Figure 71 shows one of the simplest domestic mixers that were produced in past years. The “meeting” and mixing of cold and hot water occurs in a brass, chrome-plated tube. The mixture flows through the soldered nipple. The ends of the mixer through rubber tubes quickly come into contact with taps of various shapes, pouring liquids, etc. It is convenient to install such a mixer, say, between a tap on a pipe with hot water flow-through gas water heater and a tap on the cold water pipe.
This faucet, suspended above the washbasin, does not require any additions. But above the sink, a suitable rubber tube is pulled over his nipple, which is moved as needed. When the sink is two-chamber, you simply cannot do without such an additional rubber tube, because the nipple is stationary. The designers provided for this. There are sinks with a mixer and a brush mounted on a flexible hose on the shelves. Hot water flows through the hose into the brush. A similar hose with a shower net and holder is included in the kit of the described mixer (Fig. 71). This hose is especially useful when the mixer is above a bathtub, tray, etc.
Due to its simplicity of design, the mixer has disadvantages. To prevent cracks from appearing on the thin-walled hose, it is replaced with a “rubber pressure hose with thread reinforcement...” or a “rubber hose for gas welding and metal cutting."
Rice. 71. The simplest factory mixer for universal use:
1 - edge; 2 - rubber tube; 3 - mixer; 4 - plastic special nut; 5 - rubber washer; 6 - body; 7- mesh; 8 - crown; 9 - skeleton; 10 - hose; 11 - metal special nut; 12 - nipple
To prevent rubber tubes from jumping off the ends of the mixer when it is under water pressure, they are tightened with clamps or tied with thin copper wire or strong threads. It is not difficult to make a similar mixer. You can replace the brass tube with a rubber tube with a hole in the middle. True, it will be more difficult to “cement” a shower tube or hose.
The factory holder is cleverly created. The rubber washer is inserted into a plastic housing with an internal thread. This washer is secured by a plastic special nut, which has a hexagon in the center for screwing in and out (Fig. 71, item 4). The holder is fixed to the faucet nipple thanks to a hole in a rubber washer 5–8 mm thick. The diameter of the hole in the washer is two millimeters smaller than the outer diameter of the nipple. The main advantage of the holder is the speed of removing and putting on, and in general connecting the hose.
The holder is turned independently on a lathe. The internal hexagon on the nut is not needed. It can be completely replaced by a protrusion with two flats for a regular wrench (Fig. 71, item 11). The option without a holder is also quite possible. It will be replaced by a tubular tee, soldered from metal tubes or welded from plastic ones. The diameters of the tee tubes are selected according to the existing rubber tubes.
Water taps
Tabletop Faucet Repair
Water-folding tabletop taps (GOST 20275-74) include the KTN15 ZhD toilet tabletop tap with a rigidly fixed spout (Fig. 72a). The lower part of the body pipe has four protrusions evenly spaced around the circumference just above the threads. These protrusions secure the faucet from turning in the quadrangular hole of the sink or washbasin.
Rice. 72. Tabletop toilet taps:
A-KTN15ZhD; b- KVN15D;
1 - sweep; 2 - lock nut; 3 - seal; 4 - short coupling; 5 - barrel; 6 - long coupling; 7 - metal washer; 8 - nut; 9 - rubber washer; 10 - washbasin shelf; 11 - valve body; 12 - valve head; 13 - spout; 14 - union nut; 15 - plastic ring; 16 - rubber ring
Sinks are not applicable here, because they do not have a shelf for installing a faucet.
The gap between the rectangular hole in the shelf and the faucet body is not easy to close. If this is not done, water will flow down the supply pipe when using the tap. The trouble will not only be the appearance of rust on the pipeline and puddles on the floor.
A wet pipeline will arouse suspicion in an inexperienced owner. Having blocked the access of water to the pipeline, some begin to unscrew it.
This is a flawed technology for finding the root cause of a water leak. Two rubber washers 9, included in the faucet kit, when installing the latter, install it so as to eliminate gaps between the faucet body and the rectangular hole of the shelf 10 . If standard washers after tightening the locknut 2 will not close the gaps, then washers should be cut from a sheet of rubber required thickness and elasticity.
Gaps occur during operation of the crane for several reasons: drying out of the rubber, shifting of the pipeline, weak initial tightening of the lock nut. Using putty or plasticine on dry surfaces is the fastest way to close gaps. Cement is also suitable. After drying, it is coated with oil paint.
The shelf itself rarely occupies a horizontal position. Here we're talking about about one shelf without a washbasin, because the latter may have some defects. The roller along the edges of the shelf should not allow water to pass under the washbasin. Otherwise, you can use window putty to coat the gap between the vertical rear side of the shelf and the wall to which the washbasin adjoins.
Water gets onto the washbasin shelf in different ways: splashes, leaks from under the oil seal sleeve and, finally, streams from under the spout union nut on taps of other modifications. The cause of the leak is determined after wiping the tap dry and opening the valve head by the handwheel.
Tightening the oil seal bushing usually eliminates the leakage from underneath it. Worn rubber rings 16 spout 13 are replaced. If there are no new rubber rings, strands of thread seal are wound around the old ones. 17 , tighten the union nut 14 . After such repairs, the spout cannot be turned, as the seal will be broken.
Foreign-made ceramic washbasins often have no holes or holes in the shelves. Therefore, a faucet or tabletop tap cannot be inserted into the shelf. Exit: use a wall-mounted mixer or tap. But you can break through very carefully correct hole in the shelf. To do this, turn the washbasin over and place it on a flat surface so that it does not wobble. Hole shape on back side shelves are planned. Using a sharp narrow chisel, first carefully knock down thin layer glaze. Then a recess is gradually made. You can also drill holes with a carbide drill using an electric drill. It is clear that the second and third holes need to be drilled even more carefully than the first.
Holes weaken the strength of the shelf. Before you begin such work, try doing it on a piece of earthenware, on a broken washbasin, on a worn-out cistern body, etc. Even experienced plumbers sometimes end up with a large hole with very jagged edges. Earthenware comes in different hardness and ductility. The gaskets and washers included with the faucet will not block such a hole. Therefore, it is advisable to cut out plates with holes from a sheet of aluminum or corrosion-resistant steel and, accordingly, rubber gaskets for them (one plate and one gasket on each side of the shelf). The hole will be completely blocked when the plates and gaskets are tightened with the lock nut located on the valve body.
Installing or replacing the housing 11 tap installation is usually done with the washbasin removed from the brackets. To do this, the connector of the supply pipe must be located below the bottom of the washbasin or sink. Otherwise, the angle of rotation of the lever or wrench will be limited by the vertical wall of the device and the wall of the room.
A connector is used for the connector 1 , that is, a short piece of pipe with an internal diameter of 15 mm and a length of 110 mm. Both ends of the outlet have a GI/2 thread. On one side the thread length is longer. The coupling is screwed completely onto it 4 and locknut 2 .
There are several more modifications of tabletop faucets: for KTN10D, a supply pipe with a diameter of 3/8" is screwed directly into the body; KVN15D and KTN15D are equipped with a swivel spout, like a toilet wall mounted faucet KT15D.
It is attached to the body with a union nut. Sealing is ensured by a rubber ring between the spout and the neck of the body. The ring partially fits into a circular groove located at the bottom of the spout. The second groove is located higher. It includes a plastic expansion ring 15 protecting the spout from jumping out of the union nut 14 with high water pressure. If the plastic ring breaks, it can be made from copper wire. They sell rubber rings. You can cut similar ones from a suitable rubber tube.
Taps KVN15D and KTN15AD have aerators on the outlet part of the spout. They are periodically clogged with foreign particles contained in the water. The stream weakens completely. Then unscrew the outer ring of the aerator. Take out the mesh. Blow and rinse it in the direction opposite to the flow of the stream in the spout.
Wall tap repair
These include brass fittings KV15 (Fig. 73) and KV20, installed through coupling 2 on pipes with a nominal internal diameter of 15 or 20 mm, that is, on pipes of 1/2" and 3/4". The KV15SD crane has a jet straightener and a protective and decorative coating. It is twice as expensive as the KV15 faucet, and the KV15AD faucet has an aerator and a protective and decorative coating.
Fig. 73. Wall-mounted water tap KV15:
1 - pipe; 2 - coupling; 3 - seal; 4 - back of the sink; 5 - valve body; 6 - gasket; 7 - tap head
Cranes can be placed anywhere. They are especially convenient in the garden or personal plot. If there is no plug or plug, you can also use a tap.
PC-type sinks are produced especially for these taps: PC-1 - with one hole in the back, PC-2 - with two holes. In general, the sink kit includes a backrest and the sink itself with a welded outlet. The kit often does not include screws with galvanized heads for securing the backrest to the wall. Galvanized screws are rare. Use regular screws, but before installing, coat the heads with white oil paint and let them dry.
A cast iron inspection siphon is necessary for this type of sink, because a plastic bottle siphon cannot be used here. PC sinks do not have big hole in the bottom to install the release of a plastic siphon. Welded to the bottom of the sink metal release inserted directly into the water seal of the cast iron inspection siphon. There remains a gap between them, through which, if clogged, sewer pipe water may flow. Therefore, screw a strand of seal onto the metal sink outlet before lowering it into the siphon water seal. Be sure to soak this strand with resin or oil paint, which will protect the seal from rotting.
After tightly connecting the outlet and siphon, cover the joint with cement. To prevent the cement from crumbling, wrap it in wet strip of gauze or bandage and coat with liquid cement on top. This will ensure the tightness of the joint for many years.
Sinks PSV-1 and RSV-2 differ from sinks PC in that they are equipped with plastic bottle siphons. The use of wall-mounted taps with washbasins and sinks is not practical. The fact is that the closer the faucet “spout” is to the outlet, the less splashing.
The sink outlet is located at a distance of 150 mm from the wall, and the faucet spout is located at a distance of 90-105 mm. In washbasins and sinks, the outlets are located from the wall at a distance of 180–255 mm. To reduce splashing, place the tap closer to the bottom of the washbasin or sink. You can also put a rubber tube on the spout of the faucet.
Some people extend the supply pipe along with the tap closer to the outlet. Then, to do this, use a galvanized pipe, which will slightly brighten up the visible difference between the chrome-plated faucet and the outer color of the pipe.
The KT15D toilet wall tap (Fig. 74) has undergone a number of changes. In the past, the spout was screwed directly into the body, that is, the spout had one stationary position. When I tried to turn the spout, it began to drip from the threaded connection with the body. The spout had to be turned out, the threads of the seal screwed onto the threads, and it was difficult to screw it back into the body again.
Rice. 74. Wall mounted toilet faucet KT15D:
1 - pipe; 2 - coupling; 3, 6 - seal; 4 - pipe; 5 - valve body; 7 - valve head; 8 - rubber ring; 9 - expanding plastic ring; 10 - union nut; 11 - spout
Now the spout is secured to the faucet body with a union nut 10 . Thanks to the rubber seal ring 8 and expansion plastic ring 9 The spout can be turned. The rubber ring prevents leakage along the spout, and the expansion ring prevents the spout from falling out from under the union nut. The plastic release ring sometimes breaks. Replace it with a ring of copper wire, which you can anneal to “soften” it. When it wears out, wrap threads under the rubber ring, for example, or buy a new one at the Plumbing store. You can cut the required rings yourself from a suitable rubber tube, but in terms of quality and durability they will be worse than branded ones.
Water supply pipe 1 with an internal diameter of 15 mm (1/2") connected to the valve body 5 (Kr67e) through the coupling 2 . The pipe is first screwed into the body 4 . In order not to damage the thread, a cut is made on the protruding part of the pipe while the pipe is not cut off from the pipe. After separating the pipe, the burrs are cleaned off, the seal is screwed in and screwed into the valve body using a steel plate. Instead of a plate, you can use the handle of a fixed lever of a pipe wrench old design with a handle made of multi-millimeter steel plate.
In the KT15D tap, the connection between the body and the supply pipe is simplified. The pipe and the body are combined, and only a coupling is needed for joining.
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Today there is a lot of talk about saving in the area of electricity consumption, flooring, flooring.
To save energy, industry produces energy-saving light bulbs. You can save electricity and gas yourself without using them uncontrollably.
Saving water with a faucet
With water the matter is more difficult.
But we often spend it in excess. And, oddly enough, industry contributes to this. Manufactured designs of water taps can regulate the supply of cold and hot water, mix water, and regulate its pressure. But the design of the taps does not allow it to be served in portions as needed (with the exception of taps with touch sensors, which are inaccessible to many).
When you wash your face or on other occasions, water flows continuously. At one time, washstands were widely used at home, in transport, and at dachas. Now this device can serve as a retro. But the principle of its operation allows you to save water when it needs to be used in portions.
So you have to use your ingenuity to use the existing structure to modern crane build a washbasin.
I believe that if the industry produced such cranes, they would look more aesthetically pleasing, would be oversized in volume, and would fulfill their purpose.
The old washbasin design, which can be combined with a modern faucet.
Crane design
Of all the designs of commercially available water taps, there are mainly two varieties (Fig. 1,2).
But they all have a part that is the same in design and size. This is the spout of the water tap (Fig. 3). Despite its small size, it performs various functions: fine, medium, coarse filtration. Its design allows you to additionally mix cold and hot water, saturate it with air and serves as a watering can.
The proposed design of the washbasin nozzle at the point where it is connected to the gander can be made with or without the use of a spout. In the second case, it would be necessary to install a filter and an air mixer. I suggest the design of a washbasin nozzle using a spout.
The body and cone of the device must be ordered for manufacturing on a lathe (I assure you that the cost incurred will pay off quite quickly).
Here is the sequence of stages of work:
1. Unscrew the spout from the tap using two flats at the bottom.
2. Carefully familiarize yourself with the design of the spout (Fig. 2) and disassemble it.
3. Use a soft brush to clean the filters and other parts of the spout with soapy water.
4. Assemble the filter parts without inserting them into the spout body.
5. Wrap the parts in a damp cloth and keep them intact until assembly.
6. Modify the spout with M24×1.0 mm thread (Fig. 5).
7. Make the washbasin body according to the dimensions shown in Fig. 4.
8. Install the retaining bracket on the body.
9. Make a cone according to the dimensions given in Fig. 6.
10. Make a nipple by cutting MB mm threads on a 60...70 mm pin on both sides.
11. Connect the cone to the pin.
12. Insert the cone into the hole with a diameter of 20 mm with the pin down.
13. Rub the cone into the cone hole.
14. Make a button with a diameter of 20 mm and a thickness of 10 mm.
15. Clean the protruding part of the pin.
16. Assemble the spout according to fig. 2.
17. Connect the spout to the faucet gib.
18. Connect the washbasin to the spout.
Now all that remains is to test the device in operation and eliminate possible shortcomings.
The nozzle is used when portioned water supply is required. But you need to ensure a constant supply. Installing and removing the nozzle can damage it threaded connection. Therefore, a lock is provided on the body, which, by holding the cone in the upper position by the traveler, allows water to be supplied continuously.
Economical\economical do-it-yourself crane - drawings
Rice. 1, General form water mixer taps: 1 - sink; 2 - mixer; 3 — mixer handle; 4 - gander; 5 - spout
Rice. 2. General device faucet spout: 1 - body; 2 — thin filter; 3 - medium filter;
4 — filter-watering can; 5 — flow gap; 6 - gasket; 7 — spacer legs
Rice. 3. General structure of the washbasin nozzle: 1 - body; 2 - cone; 3 - nipple; 4 - nipple button; 5 - gasket; 6 — crane jib; 7 - faucet spout; 8 - latch
Rice. 4. Washbasin body. Material: stainless steel, brass. Sharp edges must be dulled
Rice. 5. Refinement of the faucet spout
Rice. 6. Washbasin cone.
The cone should be ground in structural hole in the case. Threaded hole for nipple attachment
S. P. Prokhorov, Dnepropetrovsk
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After creating a wood heating system, which consists of a stove with two heat exchangers, a heat storage tank and expansion tank, a decision was made to automate the system. You can automate the system using room thermostats and ball valves with electric drives. The price of store-bought faucets with drives is killer - 2-2.5 thousand UAH for 3/4 or 1 inch of faucet. The idea of creating an electric drive for existing ball valves on the system has been floating around in my head for a long time. And so he began to create it, and even tried to modernize it. But so far the modernization has not been successful. I am posting the first working version of the drive for a 1" crane.
The main part of the electric drive is the window lift motor gearbox of the car 1117, 1118, 1119, 2123 left LSA.
Auxiliary parts for the drive, which also need to be purchased, are two 5-pin automotive relays for 12 volts, 2 automotive limit switches, pipe clamps with a diameter of 3/4. A pair of M8x45 bolts and nuts. The rest is small things that will be visible in the photo during the assembly process.
So, let's start manufacturing the frame housing for the drive and the mechanism that transmits rotation to the ball valve rod. The mechanism must have a break so that the crane can be operated manually. The frame is made of 1 mm thick sheet metal. We attach the window lift motor to the frame using homemade bushings made from a 10 mm diameter tube. We attach the frame to the pipe on which it is installed ball valve through bolts and clamps. We get this design
Next, we make parts for the transmission mechanism. By the way, the length of the bolts to the clamps took into account the dimensions of future parts of the transmission mechanism. Details from square pipe 10x10, from 1/2 inch pipe and 4 mm metal strip. A 10 mm washer and a spring of a suitable size were also taken. Made using a grinder, engraver, drill, files and welding!
We put it together and get the design -
The mechanism has a gear that can be removed by pressing on the parts like this -
The mechanism is working. Now you need to install these limit switches with the ability to adjust their position. To do this, we make fastenings for the end switches from plastic.
When trying to turn on the motor with such limit switches, problems arose - the limit switch lost contact, then contact was restored again, there was a spark at the limit switch, and the motor twitched in place. This won’t work. It was decided to install microswitches that click when opened. Mikriki in a word. We purchase mikriki and begin to attach them.
--- added: 11 Ber 2016 at 23:34 ---
3 amp mics and mic mounts are visible in the photo
Also composed electrical diagram connecting parts.
We fasten the mics in place and assemble the drive according to the electrical diagram.
The drive has two output connection blocks - PSU - power supply and T - thermostat (can be a room thermostat, or just a water heating thermostat).
For now, instead of a thermostat, I will use a regular toggle switch that opens or closes a contact, and the drive either closes the tap or opens it.
I mount the drive on an already installed 1" tap
I connect a homemade 12 volt power supply and test it - everything works. And in manual mode Same. I'm making a video. The drive closes very quickly - 1 second. This is his flaw. The power is enough to close the tap 1". Watch the video.
I already found a housing for the drive, but did not have time to install it, since I came up with a drive with a different geared motor. To test another motor, I disassembled this drive and used the existing frame. But more on that later. And therefore, for now there is a photo with a nickname with disassembled parts of the drive described above, and on the frame there is another drive.
--- added: 11 Ber 2016 at 23:35 ---
I would like to note that the cost of parts for the drive described above is about 400 UAH! In contrast to ready-made store-bought cranes with drives that cost 2000-2500 UAH, there is a noticeable difference!
I decided to make some distilled water here and, accordingly, I needed to connect the Liebig refrigerator (distiller) to the water supply. I began to think about how to connect the hose to the tap.
Standard solutions in the form of ready-made adapters for a faucet for a hose cost some absolutely unimaginable money (), so I began to think about how to get by with little expense.
In general, the solution turned out to be primitive: the easiest way to connect the hose to the tap is to use an aerator:
The fact is that the thread on the mixer watering can is very specific (diameter 22 mm, pitch 1 mm) and no ready-made plumbing gadgets are suitable for it. Except for the aerator, of course.
We unscrew it and shake out all the insides. We only need the metal shell itself: 
By the way, plastic aerators are completely unsuitable due to their fragility and fragility. It needs to be made of metal.
We go to the nearest market, where they sell all kinds of plumbing equipment and buy a fitting there required diameter(for the hose we have) with a 1/2 inch internal thread. I bought for 9 mm: 
We clamp the fitting into the drill, check that there is no beating when rotating: 
We take a grinder with a cutting wheel and separate the excess: 
It should look something like this: 
Then we change cutting wheel on a grinder on a petal: 
and carefully sand it down to get a smooth surface: 
Then, using the same petal circle, we turn the hexagon into a circle and reduce its diameter until our modernized fitting begins to fit inside the aerator body. This must be done very slowly and carefully, the main thing is not to miss the moment. Periodically we stop and check whether it is included or not: 
As soon as the fitting begins to pass freely through the thread and rests against the internal narrowing of the aerator body, then our faucet attachment for the hose is considered ready. All that remains is to find a 1/2" silicone gasket (they are everywhere like dirt).
So, here is the answer to the question of how to connect a hose to a mixer: 
Everything is assembled in this order: 
I checked it at work: nothing is leaking anywhere, everything is reliable and aesthetically pleasing. 
In total, our nozzle is water tap for the hose it cost 45 rubles (brass fitting), 5 rubles for the gasket and about 40 minutes of time, including cleaning the room. 
And as a bonus, we will also have a half-inch brass nut left: 
I hope my experience was useful to you and you learned another way to connect a hose to a faucet in the kitchen.
By the way, the aerator will not suffer at all after such use. It can be reassembled and screwed into place. It was as if nothing had happened!
Well, if you don’t have the opportunity to grind a fitting, for example, no suitable tool, then the faucet adapter for the hose can be made even simpler. How? Watch the video!
That's all. Thank you for your attention!
