It’s hard to imagine a comfortable life without a country shower country holiday. Thanks to it, staying at the dacha becomes much more pleasant, especially in extreme heat.
Making it is not so difficult if you use moisture-resistant material that is easy to install. It could be cellular polycarbonate, plastic panels or corrugated sheet. If you need the best option, you should pay attention to a shower made of corrugated sheets.
Advantages of a country shower made of corrugated sheets
1. Cheapness. Firstly, if you decide to make a shower from corrugated sheets with your own hands, you save money on all installation work. Secondly, the material itself is quite inexpensive. Thirdly, often after various construction work There are sheets of corrugated sheets left that are a pity to throw away - but here they will come in handy.
2. High strength and the rigidity of galvanized sheets of material guarantees excellent properties to the walls and roof of the future shower.
3. Anti-corrosion properties- this is very important for a room where high humidity is expected.
4. Simplicity installation work , since it is not necessary to have complex professional equipment and relevant skills.
5. Design speed and installation - four to five hours is enough. Then you need to wait until the sealant has dried, and you can begin to fully operate your small architectural structure.
6.Durability designs.
7. Aesthetic appearance thanks to modern material processing and a variety of color palettes
This is what it looks like country shower from corrugated sheets in detail:
We build a shower from corrugated sheets
The whole technology is based on fastening corrugated sheets to a pre-fabricated frame (from profile pipes and angles). To build a summer shower from corrugated sheets with your own hands, you need to prepare the following materials before starting work:
- corrugated sheets;
- pipes for the frame (50x50 or 40x60 mm);
- fitting;
- convenient shower head;
- hose;
- self-tapping screws;
- sealing tape, sealant.
You will also need tools such as a mounting clamp, a level and a shovel. It's better to choose quality materials, and not the cheapest ones. Then in the future you will enjoy all the benefits of using modern building materials. With their help, you can quickly and easily make an excellent shower from corrugated sheets with your own hands.
You just need to follow the instructions below and as a result you will get a presentable summer shower made of corrugated sheets, which will decorate the area and provide you with maximum comfort on hot summer days.
A simple, practical shower has the form of a central counter with plumbing fixtures and side walls, which are covered with corrugated sheets.
Stage 1. Digging a pit
A shower in a country house made of corrugated sheets can have different designs and be located above the pit itself or not far from it. If drainage system is installed directly under the shower, then for this purpose a hole is dug at least 50 cm deep and for 40-45 of them it is filled with large crushed stones, stones, brick fragments, etc. Upper layer covered with small crushed stone. A wooden grate 10 cm high is already placed on this base - this is the floor of the shower. You can do it yourself, keeping a gap of 0.5-1 cm.
In the second case, when there is no hole under the floor, you will need to create a drain - for example, by concreting a pipe and a plastic drain into the floor or using a special tray. Discharge must be carried out into a special sump or into a drainage ditch. The first could be a Eurocube, that is, a special plastic container in a metal grid. Two such connected Eurocubes can be a purification facility.
After determining the size of the shower (usually 2x2 or 2x3 m), its base is marked. The earth is removed from this place to the depth of the shovel bayonet. Then the pit is lined with roofing felt and covered with crushed stone in a layer about 15-20 cm thick.
A piece of hose or pipe is placed in the same hole, which is led outside the perimeter of the shower itself. The pipe can be laid on the surface or in a trench. Now a tray with a drain is placed on top, which is connected to the pipe. You can just get by with concrete or tiles.
Stage 2. Install the metal frame
A country shower made of corrugated sheets is made on the basis of a frame made of profile pipes. You need to calculate its dimensions based on what sheets of corrugated sheets you have. The pipes will have to be dug into the ground to a depth of about a meter and this also needs to be taken into account.
Four racks of profile pipe concrete is placed in the corners of the shower, and the fifth is needed to hang the door. Then horizontal jumpers are prepared to connect the racks from below, above and in the middle - it is recommended to use welding, as this is the most reliable method.
If you work with welding machine V in this case is impossible, then it is quite possible to use metal screws. You can also use screw connections, but you will have to drill holes for them. The finished frame is coated with an anti-corrosion substance and painted.
Stage 3. Raise and secure the barrel
It is necessary to strengthen the roof, for which profile pipes are also suitable. They will serve as lags, that is, bars on which the roofing material. A container of water is placed on top of this.
Both plastic and metal tanks with a recommended volume of 150 to 200 liters are suitable for water intake. If you are interested in quickly warming up the water, then pay attention to flat designs dark color. It is better to initially take a black tank from an easily heated material, but you can simply paint the barrel black, install it and securely fasten it to the roof.
Stage 4. We cover the shower with corrugated sheets
Using self-tapping screws, the frame is sheathed with corrugated board. At the same time, verticality is constantly checked, for which you will need a level. It makes sense to take a ready-made door, but you can do it yourself if you have time to tinker.
Stage 5. Install the plumbing
The tanks we sell already have holes for both showers and water intake - you just need to connect the supply hose, mount the faucet and install a watering can/sprayer. But for an ordinary barrel you will have to go through the following series of procedures:
- drill a hole;
- insert a piece of threaded pipe;
- install a tap;
- put another piece of threaded pipe (squeeze);
- connect a sprayer or watering can;
- cover the barrel from leaves and debris.
You can watch the construction of a shower from corrugated sheets in the following video:
At the dacha in the summer there should always be an opportunity to wash. For the first time, you can use a portable mobile shower. How make a summer shower at the dacha with your own hands we will tell you in this article, it will also offer shower drawings different options And sizes with photo And step-by-step instruction.
Mobile shower
The first option is made as a mobile shower with a foot pump, in which you don’t even need to build a cabin and install a large tank of water. You can use a bucket or tank as a source from which water will flow. One end of the hose is lowered into the container, and the other is connected to a foot pump, which most often resembles a mat.
A hose and watering can are connected to the output of such a pump. In order for water to flow through the watering can, you should stomp on the mat, alternately pressing the pump pads with your feet.
The advantages of this type of mobile shower are that you can take it with you anywhere. If the weather is warm, you can swim outside; if it’s cold, you can swim indoors. Another plus is that it is easy to transport. It is light and compact, so it can fit into a regular bag. In addition, you can choose the water temperature yourself. To refresh yourself in summer heat You can pour cooler water, and to wash yourself well, pour warm water into a container. This is quite a decent option for a summer shower.
Summer stationary shower in the country
The first question in shower design is where the water will drain. If there is one nearby outdoor toilet
with a drainage hole, it will be possible to lay a pipeline from the shower there. But if bacteria or special drugs, then this option will not work. To process waste in this way, a certain environment is required, and draining from the shower into the pit will disrupt chemical composition and humidity level.
It is better if a separate drainage hole is prepared for the shower. If the soil absorbs normally, then it is quite enough to dig a hole nearby measuring 60*60*60 cm. This is enough for the average water consumption. If there are many residents or they are lovers of water procedures, then you can dig a larger hole. The bottom must be covered with expanded clay or broken bricks.
If the soil is sandy, there is a danger of sand shedding. In this case, the walls must be reinforced with a net, driving pegs into the sides. Sometimes the walls are sheathed with the remains of boards.
Base
Summer shower Most often it doesn't weigh much. Therefore, there is no need to bother with a serious reason.
Can be set to small levels foundation blocks 20 cm in height. This distance is enough to prevent the wood from rotting if it is used to make a frame.
If the frame is welded from metal, then it is installed directly on the slab or paving slabs.
You can cast the base yourself. To do this, formwork is made, reinforcement is laid and concrete is poured.
Frame making
Size the soul can be anything. In addition, often one part of the building is made into a shower room, and in the second there is a locker room, storage room or room for a water heater.
If you plan to make an ordinary shower in which you will only wash, then you can use a square with sides of 90 cm. In this design, instead of a door, there will be a curtain. The height of the rack is 2.2 m, higher only if necessary.
But you should understand that this size will be comfortable for people of average build. A width of 100 cm is considered more comfortable, and 120 cm is best. A frame is assembled from metal or wooden blocks.
Made of metal
In order to weld a metal frame:
- Use a corner with a thickness of 4-5 mm.
- The width of the shelves is chosen depending on the load.
- If the covering is light (film, waterproof fabric), and the container with water is square plastic up to 100 liters, then you can take metal with a minimum cross-section.
- If the load is large - the sheathing is heavy (lining), and the water tank is voluminous (more than 200 liters), then the cross-section should be larger (70 angle).
Advice! For a metal frame, a good option would be to use a profiled pipe.
- A wall thickness of 3 mm is suitable for racks, and 2 mm for piping.
- Such a pipe may have a rectangular or square section. Thanks to this, the process of attaching the sheathing and sheathing becomes easier.
- To attach something to a corner, you must first screw the bars, and then attach the strapping to the beam. It is convenient to attach the harness to the profiled pipe directly using bolts or screws, having previously drilled holes in it.
It will be most convenient to weld the frame. If this is not possible, then you can do metal carcass bolted. To do this, you need to cut the pipes to the required length, take thick mounting angles and assemble the frame with bolts.
Made of wood
A wooden frame can be assembled from timber: 
- For the bottom trim, it is recommended to take a pine beam, 100*100 mm or 150*100 mm.
- For racks, you can choose smaller sections.
- Select the section of the racks for the load. If the heavy tank is at the top, you can use 100mm, if the racks will only support the roof, then you can use 50mm.
Mounting methods can be different:
- Correct option- this is to cut out a tenon and groove.
- You can make it simpler and dock one to the other, strengthening the connection with corners.
After the racks are set, you should do top harness:
- For it, a section of 50*50 mm or 50*40 mm is taken. You can make 2 or 3 intermediate crossbars, depending on what will be used for the cladding. They need to be made more if timber or lining is used. Wood is not always smooth, so you will need to level the geometry using force.
Selecting a skin
In order to cover the frame, you can use various materials:
- Film or oilcloth. It will not last long, most often it will last for a season. But this option is quite cheap, this is its advantage.
- Impregnated fabric. Also simple and inexpensive option. You can take fabric that is used for awnings or tents.
- Lumber. It can be anything: lining, imitation timber or block house.
Advice! You should not buy raw material if you plan to install it immediately. Such materials can dry out within a year, to such an extent that the boards will jump out of the grooves. If you plan to make the cladding like a wicker fence, you can take the simplest boards.
- Slate. It's better to take a polymer one. Asbestos is also often used, although they know that this material is harmful.
- Profiled sheet. If it remains from being used for other purposes, then it can also be used to cover the shower frame.
- Polycarbonate. It has the disadvantage of being almost transparent. It is necessary to seal the cuts, because moisture and dust can get into them, and algae can settle. Then the shade of polycarbonate will change over time to gray-green, which does not look very nice.
The sheathing can be made from any available material, the main thing is that it fulfills its main purpose.
Watch the video! DIY summer shower made of polycarbonate
Tank
You can use any suitable container for the tank. Often, metal or plastic barrel. The container can be purchased. They are widely represented in different sizes and from various materials:
- plastic;
- black metal;
- stainless steel
Plastic tanks have their drawbacks. The water in them heats up slower and worse. Residents of the southern region should not worry about this, since there is enough heat there, but residents Middle zone should take the choice of tank seriously. Although in this region, water even in ferrous metal barrels has to be heated, since the sun cannot handle it.
But there are also advantages to plastic tanks. They are light, inexpensive, if they have rectangular shape, they will be conveniently located on the shower frame; there is no need to think about how to secure them more conveniently.
Using a metal container will allow the water to heat up faster, especially if it is painted black. But ordinary metal rusts, and by the end of the season there will be a lot of rust. It will clog the watering can and remain on the body. This is the main disadvantage of using metal barrels.
It is better to buy a stainless steel tank. It will also heat water quickly, but will be more expensive than the above options.
Pallet
There are two options shower designs:
- the drainage hole is located under it;
- the drain is moved away from the building.
In the first case, you can simply construct a flood floor: lay boards with a gap of 3-5 mm. This option is especially suitable for sandy loam and sandy soil. The water will drain quickly, without stagnating, without causing any problems or inconvenience.
If the design provides for drainage to the side, then a tray should be installed in the shower. You can buy a ready-made pallet. Then you will need to take its size into account when building the frame. The beams on which it will be attached must also be selected with the appropriate cross-section. It is not difficult to connect; a siphon with a flexible hose is installed as in a regular bathroom.
If the pallet is made of plastic, then in addition to the beams, additional support is needed so that it does not “walk.” You can lay it out of bricks on cement mortar.
Important! When laying out the support, you will need to leave room for the drain hose.
You can make a tray yourself, which will have a larger drain than a plastic one. To do this you need to fill concrete slab:
- You need to dig a pit to size, 30-40 cm deep.
- Gravel is poured onto the bottom, a layer of 20 cm.
- After this, you need to install a drain pipe and a drain grate.
- Formwork is placed on top; it can be made permanent, made of brick.
- The crushed stone must be compacted and filled with concrete (M 250).
- In order for the base to become strong, it is necessary to leave it for 7 days, if the temperature environment above +17 degrees.
- After a week, you can continue construction and install the frame.
Filling the tank with water and heating
Usually there are no problems filling the tank with water:
- The easiest way is to top up in buckets. This is not entirely convenient, but when there is no choice, it is a good option.
- You can install a supply pipe with a valve from the water supply. When it is necessary to add water, the tap opens and the tank fills.
How to autofill
Automatic tank filling is the most advanced option. A float system, similar to the one found in a toilet cistern, regulates the opening/closing of the water supply. But in such a design, provision should be made for draining excess in case of breakdown. And it would be good to turn off the tap if they leave the dacha for a long time, so as not to turn the area into a swamp.
The water intake into the shower occurs close to the surface, since this is where the water is warmest. But the main thing is to install the pipe on the other side of the cold water inlet, otherwise the water will be cold.
Two pipes lead to the sewer. One is overflow. Thanks to it, the tank will not overfill if the float mechanism breaks. The second pipe is for drainage. A tap is also installed on it so that the system can be closed for the winter.
Heating
Option “cheap and cheerful” - heating solar energy. The water is heated through the walls of the tank. But the water thickness is large, so heating does not always occur as quickly as we would like. There are various tricks that are used to heat water with the sun's rays.
In the tank, the warmest water is at the top. And the supply in the traditional form occurs from below, that is, cold water is taken in. There is one trick to make sure that the warmest water flows into the watering can. To do this, you need to attach a hose to it, and attach it to a piece of foam that floats in the tank. Thus, water is taken from above.
There is an option to speed up heating. For this purpose, a “coil” is made. Two pipes are welded into the tank, one at the bottom and the second above. They are connected to a black rubber hose, which must be laid out in rings in the sun. The result is quite active movement of water, provided there is no air in the hose.
If sunlight alone is not enough to heat the water, you can supply electricity to the shower. You can use wet heating elements with thermostats to set the required temperature. They are used in storage water heaters, so buying them will not be difficult.
It is worth taking safety precautions when connecting power to the shower. To do this, you should install a machine with an RCD.
Watch the video! Warm water always in the barrel
Step-by-step instruction
Instructions for creating a design summer shower at the dacha, presented below.
Size the structure will be 1x2m.
Materials required: 50 mm and 25 mm boards, 3 m high,
Manufacturing columnar foundation
- In the corners of the building, holes are made of arbitrary depth, for example 1 m (the deeper, the better). To prevent the foundation from warping after frost, theoretically you should dig a hole deeper than the ground freezes.
In Central Russia this depth is 1-1.3 m. But you can make a hole 80 cm deep, pour 20 cm of crushed stone on the bottom, and then 20 cm of sand, then the water will not stagnate and the columns will not warp.
- On top of the cement mortar we lay columns of solid brick measuring 25*25 cm 10-20 cm above ground level. An anchor steel strip 3-4 mm thick is embedded in each column. The lower frame and vertical posts made of 50*150 mm boards will be attached to it.
Building frame
The lower frame, as well as vertical posts made of 50 x 150 cm boards, diagonal jibs (made of 25 x 150 mm boards) for structural rigidity - we attach all this to the anchor strip with M8-M10 bolts. It is necessary to do this, because at a given height, even a slight wind can knock down an unsecured structure, because it has small area base and decent height.
Roof
A gable roof is made from 25 mm boards. An elevation of 50 cm in the center of the roof above the edges will be enough for the rainwater. The same slope can be made for a pitched roof.
Watch the video! DIY country shower
In the summer, even when relaxing and not working, at the dacha you need the opportunity to wash yourself. The easiest way to organize this is on the street, not in the house. You can make it portable - a mobile shower. This is a great option for the first time. But I want something more thorough. For this purpose, they build a summer shower in the country. Although it is stationary, it is lightweight.
Portable summer
Let's start with the most simple models, which do not even require booth devices or large capacity. There are mobile showers that work on the principle of a foot pump. The source of water is any container that you place next to you - a bucket, basin, tank - whatever you have. You lower the end of the hose into it, connected to a foot pump, which most often looks like a mat.
Summer foot shower - stomp
A hose with a watering can is connected to the output of this “pump”. To get a flow of water, tread on the mat, alternately pressing the pump pads. We trampled and the water began to flow.
What's great about this option is that you can carry it with you. It’s warm outside—you wash on the lawn. It got colder - we went into the house, put a trough, and washed ourselves there. This shower can also be taken on a hike - it fits in a standard package. Another plus is that you regulate the water temperature yourself: if you pour it warmer, you wash in it warm. If you want to freshen up, grab a bucket of cooler water. A good shower option for summer use.
Summer stationary shower in the country
When installing a stationary shower, the first question that arises is: where to drain the water. If there is already a drain hole for, you can lay a pipeline there. But this solution is not the best if you use bacteria or drugs to process waste in the pit. In this case, a certain humidity is required, and with a shower it will be clearly higher than normal.
It is better to make a separate drainage hole for the shower. If the soil has normal drainage ability, it is enough to dig a hole nearby about 60*60*60 cm, fill it with expanded clay, or maybe with broken bricks. This should be enough for average water consumption. If your family belongs to the category of “waterfowl” or the water drains poorly, make the hole larger.
On sandy soils you may encounter another problem: the sand may crumble. Then the walls can be strengthened with a net by driving pegs into the sides. Another option is to cover the walls with boards (as in the photo). But this is if the board is leftover.
Base
No matter what kind of summer shower it is, it usually weighs a little. That’s why the basis for it is not too serious: there is no point in burying money. Most often, small foundation blocks are used, which are leveled. The shower in the country is raised above ground level by 20 cm or so. This is enough to prevent the treated wood (if it is used as a frame) from rotting.
If you are going to make a metal frame, you can even place it on a level paving slab or slab. If desired, you can cast the columns yourself: install the formwork, lay the reinforcement and fill it with concrete.
Frame
The size of the shower is chosen arbitrarily: there are no standards here. In addition, the shower stall is often only one part. In another they set up, for example, a locker room or a room for a water heater (electric or wood - depending on the conditions). Some people plan to use the other half for storage or storage of equipment. So a country shower is not always just a cabin “for washing.”
If it is planned lightweight design, in which they will only wash themselves, and the simplest option is with a curtain instead of a door, you can take minimum dimensions: a square with a side length of about 90 cm (drawing below), the height of the racks excluding the tank is 2.2 m or higher (if the family is tall).
But this width is far from comfortable: it’s too cramped even for people of average build. It is more comfortable with a width of at least 100 cm, and better - 120 cm. This frame is assembled from metal or wooden blocks.
Made of metal
The metal frame for the shower is made from a corner with a thickness of at least 4-5 mm. The width of the shelf is selected depending on the planned load. The frame is usually loaded by water tanks and cladding. If you plan to place a plastic square container of 100 liters on top, and cover the walls with film, impregnated fabric or something equally lightweight, you can take the cross-section to a minimum. If you are planning, for example, two 200 liter barrels, and cover the shower stall at the dacha on both sides with clapboard, the load will be completely different. And here large sections are required.
Another metal frame for a country shower can be made from a profiled pipe. The wall thickness for the racks is 3 mm; 2 mm is also suitable for strapping. It has a rectangular or square cross-section, which makes it much easier to attach the sheathing and sheathing. To attach something to a corner, you often have to first screw the bars to it, and attach the rest of the strapping to the beam. The harness can be attached directly to the profiled pipe using bolts or screws with pre-drilled holes.
It is best to weld the metal frame. If there is no device, you can make a collapsible frame on bolted connections. Craftsmen do it this way: they cut pipes to the required length, take thick mounting angles and assemble the frame with bolts.
In case you are planning to learn how to weld metal, the choice of welding machine is.
Made of wood
The wooden frame for an outdoor shower is assembled from timber. For the bottom trim, as a rule, pine beams 100*100 mm or 150*100 mm are used. Racks can be installed with a smaller cross-section. Again it depends on the load. If there is a large tank on the roof, make racks from weave. If they only hold a roof (water is heated in titanium nearby) or a very small tank, then 50*50 is enough.
The bars can be attached in different ways. If correct, you need to cut out the tenon and groove. If it's quick, you can join directly, reinforcing the connections with corners.
Having placed the racks, they immediately make the top trim. It definitely fits 50*50 mm or 50*40 mm. They also make intermediate strapping. There may be one, two, or even three. If you are going to cover the shower with clapboard, imitation timber, it is better to fasten the crossbars more often: it will be possible to fit the not quite even lumber more tightly. The quality of wood materials sold on the market is, to put it mildly, low. We have to correct the jambs of geometry using force.
The construction of a timber frame is shown in the video
Sheathing
You can cover the frame with any material:
You can use any other fence that comes to your mind and will perform its functions. For example, on one summer cottage the shower paneling was woven. Type .
Shower tank
As a tank for a summer shower, use any suitable container that is on the farm. Most often it is a barrel - metal or plastic. If there is nothing suitable, you can buy a container. They are available in a wide range: plastic, metal - ferrous metal and stainless steel.
Not everyone likes plastic ones, as they heat up the water worse. For the southern regions this is not a big deal - there is already enough heat, but for the central zone it can be critical. Although in this region, most of the summer, water even in black metal barrels requires heating. On the other side plastic containers they are inexpensive, lightweight, and have a square, flat shape, which means they fit well on the shower frame and there is no need to come up with a mounting method.
Water will heat up faster in a metal barrel, especially if it is painted black. But if it is made of ordinary metal, by the end of the season there will be a lot of rust. So much that it will be noticeable on the body. This is the main disadvantage of such tanks. Much better - stainless steel. If finances allow, allow yourself one.
Summer shower tray
There are two options for installing a country shower: when the septic tank (drainage pit) is located directly under the shower stall. Then you can simply make a pouring floor: lay boards with a gap of 3-5 mm. A simple option that works great on sandy and sandy loam soils. In this case, the water leaves very quickly, without stagnating anywhere, so this device does not cause any inconvenience.
But this option is only suitable if you plan to use the shower exclusively for warm weather. But in spring and autumn it will be cold, as it will blow from below.
If normal drainage is required or the drains need to be diverted to the side (drain pit away from the building), you need to make a tray in the shower. The simplest case is to buy ready-made. Then, when constructing and choosing the size of the frame, you will have to focus on the size of the pallet: under it you need bars to which it is attached. They also connect it in a standard way: they install a siphon with a flexible hose, like in a bathroom.
If the pallet is plastic, just bars around the perimeter will not be enough: support is required under it, otherwise it “walks” too much. This base is usually made of bricks. You can bind them with a solution. Just be sure to leave room for the drain hose.
In some cases, they try to make a more solid drain: without using a ready-made pan. In this case, a concrete slab is poured. To do this, dig a pit of the required size, about 30-40 cm deep. A layer of gravel 15-20 cm thick is laid on the bottom. Already at this stage, a foundation is installed - a drain pipe and a drain grate. They are putting up formwork. It can be permanent - made of brick. The crushed stone is compacted and everything is filled with concrete (). Wait a week (at a temperature of +17°C and above) until the base gains strength. Afterwards, you can continue work: install the frame and continue construction.
Filling the tank and heating the water
There are usually no problems filling the shower tank with water. Sometimes they carry water in buckets - if you want to wash, you will carry it. It’s not very convenient, of course, but it happens... If there is a water supply at the dacha, fill it with a hose and install a supply pipe with a valve. You need to add water - open the tap, the tank is filled - turn it off.
How to auto-fill a tank
The most advanced ones do automatic filling. Then the water supply is opened/closed by a float system similar to the one in the tank. Only in case of breakdown should provision be made for draining excess water. And, preferably, when leaving the dacha, turn off the supply tap. Otherwise, you can turn your and your neighbor’s dacha into a swamp.
An approximate diagram of the implementation of auto-filling the tank is shown in the figure above. Please note: the water intake into the shower occurs close to the surface: this is where the warmest water is usually located. Only this pipe is placed at the opposite end from the cold water inlet, otherwise the water will still be cold.
There are two pipes going into the sewer system: one is an overflow pipe (mustard colored). With its help, the tank will not overfill if the float mechanism breaks down. Second drain into the sewer for complete drainage ( Brown). It is useful when preserving the system - draining it for the winter, which is why a tap is installed on it.
Organization of heating
The simplest option is to use solar energy. Yes, it heats water through the walls of the tank. But the water thickness is too large for it to warm up quickly. That’s why people come up with various installations for solar water heating.
As mentioned above, the warmest water in the tank is at the top. And the traditional feed comes from below. That is, we take the most cold water. To ensure that the warmest water flows into the watering can, a hose is attached to it, and it is attached to a piece of foam plastic, which I let float. So water is taken from above.
To speed up the heating of the water, they make a “coil” (in the photo above it is the right picture). At the bottom of the water tank and above, two pipes are welded into one of its walls. They are connected to a black rubber hose, which is folded into rings in the sun. If there is no air in the hose, the water movement will be quite active.
If the sun is not enough for you, but you can supply electricity to the shower, you can use heating elements (wet). They need to have a thermostat so you can set the required temperature. They are usually used in storage water heaters, so you can find them.
When you pull the power line to the shower, do not forget to install a circuit breaker with an RCD. This is the minimum that will ensure your safety.
Construction of a shower at the dacha: photo report
It was decided to use the fence at the far end of the site as one of the walls of the shower. It was decided to have a shower with a locker room - it’s much more convenient.
The soil is sandy, the water drains very quickly, so only one tire was buried for drainage. Rainfall tests have shown that no more is required. Much more water was poured than I had in the barrel, but there were no puddles.
Then we welded the frame. Used rectangular pipe 60*30 mm. This is a bit much for this design, but we used what we had: the remains from the construction of the fence.
Having welded the floor frame and thereby marking its level, we formed a drain. They filled in the missing height with bricks (battle, remains). Everything was filled with concrete, forming a drain into the tire.
We leveled the floor in the second half and left it to set. We started processing wood. Purchased aspen board. It was first treated with sandpaper attached to a grinder. Afterwards it was impregnated with a protective composition.
While the impregnation dries, we continue to weld the metal frame for the shower. The middle piping was welded from the same profile pipes. Then it was used as a scaffold for working at heights. Already dried boards were placed on the piping pipes. The top trim was welded from this pedestal.
The frame is almost ready. All that remains is to weld the frame for the barrel at the top.
The metal used is old, so it is covered in rust. It was cleaned with a grinder. Then the shower frame was painted three times with anti-rust paint. She is chosen of blue color, since it was planned to cover the shower with blue polycarbonate.
The polycarbonate was mounted with self-tapping screws. No special or regular washers were used during installation. This is a violation of technology, which can lead to it cracking in sunny weather. This material has a large thermal expansion, which is enhanced, since in this case it is fixed to a metal frame.
The barrel in the barn has been washed. The pipes are welded to it. One is for filling water, the second is for connecting a watering can. After this, the barrel is painted black.
Owners summer cottages and private houses, simple shower stalls are often erected in their yard, and many are figuring out how to make a shower in the country with their own hands. This is the simplest option, which does not require a large financial investment or effort from you, but you need to approach the process carefully.
Many people try to arrange their dacha as comfortably as possible. Therefore, electricity, water supply and other communications are installed in the house. But few people refuse to shower outside either. Moreover, you can build a temporary structure or even a permanent building. It all depends on the needs and capabilities of the owner.
But despite it would seem simple task, before construction, it is necessary to correctly design everything, choose a location and purchase the required materials. After all, a summer shower needs to be made comfortable, free and easy to use.
Choosing a place for a shower
It is difficult to describe all the advantages of building a summer shower at the dacha. But the main ones are still:
- ease of construction;
- small financial injection;
- simplicity and ease of use;
- savings, because you don’t need to heat the water;
- satisfaction from a pleasant hot water Anytime.
But for the shower to be truly practical, you need to choose the right location. In this case, it is worth taking into account all the features of the structure. The place should be as flat as possible or even slightly elevated, then the water will drain easily and quickly. But areas in a hole or lowland should be avoided. Placing it in such a place will only create water stagnation. Especially during rainfall. And the stock will be much more difficult to register.
Ideal option There will be a platform in an open area, which is perfectly illuminated by the sun's rays. It’s better to create a shower a little further away from other buildings. This way, the barrel of water will quickly warm up under the sun, and you will have warm water for much longer. This condition is not important if you are building a shower with a device for heating water.
But, nevertheless, your shower should not be located too far from your home. After all, after swimming, you need to find yourself in a warm room as quickly as possible.
Shower on site
Before building the shower itself, consider the water flow. The best option is to discharge the water into a special septic tank or septic tank. It is also worth considering how the water tank will be filled. It is ideal to provide water supply automatically.
Calculating shower parameters
The following parameters for a summer shower for a summer cottage are considered standard:
- from 2 to 3 m height;
- about 1.90 m length;
- 1.40 m width.
Do not forget that the building itself should be quite spacious so that you feel comfortable staying in it. In addition, you need to allocate a separate space for personal belongings and bath accessories. This requires a minimum of 0.4-0.6 m.
Of course, the size can be very varied and depends on everyone's needs. When you have decided on the values, it is worth creating a drawing. You can draw it yourself or look for a ready-made one suitable option in the Internet.
Drawing of a traditional simple shower
The given parameters are quite comfortable, since the total area of the shower will be 2 x 1.5 m (taking into account the thickness of the walls). If used as building material wooden boards regular size, you will have virtually no waste left.
Construction of a summer shower
When the parameters have been calculated and the location has been selected, then it’s time to get started preparatory work. Let's look at how to make a shower in the country with your own hands, while choosing the simplest option in terms of spending money and effort. Initially, you should remove the surface ball of soil from the area on which the shower will stand. Then the base for the building is leveled. After this procedure, you should fill the area with sand.
The structure itself can be light and consist of a simple frame or be a permanent building. Consequently, construction will be radically different. Below is a step-by-step guide to the process of creating a simple version.
- Pouring the foundation.
The foundation is needed to ensure that the entire structure stands securely on the ground. Despite small sizes, it’s still better to use markings to ensure the base is level. It is enough to simply drive pegs into the ground around the perimeter of the site. Then, after checking the diagonal, pull the cord over the top of the peg.
Creating a foundation for a shower
The parameters of the base directly depend on the size of the shower and the materials used. If you have to create a building from cinder block or brick, then the foundation should be about 30 cm thick. If there is a wooden or metal frame, then everything will be different.
Before you start pouring the foundation, you should start laying pipes, or rather preparatory work. Take a log or thick branch of the required thickness and wrap it with roofing felt. It is laid when pouring the foundation, so you will have space for laying the pipe.
If you plan to use such a shower for as long as possible, then the foundation should be raised above ground level by 15 cm. To do this, you will have to build formwork. In this case, the height of the trench is increased with the help of boards, which are secured with spacers and stakes.
The main condition for creating a base for a shower is to fill an absolutely flat surface. Therefore, during work, two guides and a building level are used (as when screeding a floor). In this case, both guides must be level, and when pouring concrete mortar alignment occurs along these guides, creating a floor base. Only a good horizontal surface will be a suitable basis for constructing a shower.
Ready foundation for building a shower
- Frame installation.
The construction of the frame can be made of wooden beams or metal profile. The latter option is more reliable and will last many times longer. But using wood is a more economical option.
If, however, the choice fell on wooden frame, then it is worth considering that such material is very susceptible to damage by fungus and rotting processes from constant contact with water and other atmospheric phenomena. Therefore, it is necessary to properly treat wood using special impregnations. They protect the tree from the growth of fungus and insect pests so that the building lasts as long as possible.
When the parameters have been calculated and the materials have been purchased, you can begin constructing and installing the frame.
In this case, you can use a pile-type foundation. Before its creation, the site is marked. The result should be a rectangular shape, and its sides should correspond to the size of the shower. In each corner of the marking you need to make wells within 1.30-1.70 m. The exact depth depends on the pipes used.
After this, a foundation is formed from metal pipes. It is most profitable to take pipes whose length is from 1.5 to 2 m and about 10 cm in diameter.
But, as practice shows, you can even use sleepers from railway. The piles should sink into the soil so much that 20 cm remains above ground level. After this, they can be filled with concrete. When the filling dries well and sets, the installation of timber beams begins. For these purposes, you should not take timber larger than 10 cm in diameter.
Metal carcass
Next is to make a dressing. In other words, you need to bolt the entire frame together from top to bottom. If you followed all the rules for creating a frame, then you can put a fairly large tank or other water reservoir on top.
When choosing the volume, you should proceed from the calculation of 40 liters per person. But you should not exceed 200 liters. It's not just a lot of weight. The water will take much longer to heat up. The best option is to use a flat tank. And its edges should rest against the edges of the roof.
Shower covered with film
The dressing created inside will be the base for the floor and will act as a joist.
Walls can be made from various available materials:
- slate sheets;
- OSB board;
- wood boards;
- plastic panels;
- PVC film and other options.
You can even sheathe it with boards from an old fence. This way you will not only save money, but also avoid cluttering your yard.
- Connecting the communications system.
Particular attention should be paid to communications. This stage will require you Money. After all, you will need to purchase necessary materials, which are unlikely to be found in the yard.
- Pipes and tank installation.
After the structure is completely assembled, installation should begin. water pipe. The outlet for the watering can hose should be above head level. Otherwise the pressure will not be enough.
You can buy a tank in a store, for example, made of plastic. But if you don’t want to spend extra money, you can use regular metal barrel or any suitable container.
Before lifting the tank up, it is worth making a thread with an outlet. You also need to install the faucet and nozzle. Only after this can the container be placed on top and firmly fixed. Basically, water collected in an outdoor shower is heated by sun rays. To make the process faster, it is worth painting the tank with black paint. Ideally, the tank can be covered with film, creating a greenhouse effect. And in order to significantly reduce heat transfer, you can attach foil from the north.
- Light.
If you install lighting in a country shower, then do not forget about the features of installation work. After all, increased moisture is constantly present inside the cabin. For summer version It will be enough to build a small window. The luminous flux is enough for swimming. Don't forget to install frosted glass V window frame. If you use the shower in spring period, then it’s still better to carry out lighting.
- Ventilation system.
To improve air flow and increase protection against condensation droplets, it is better to make a hole in the ceiling. It is easy to disguise it using decorative grilles, which are sold in the store, as in the photo.
- Drain system.
During hot periods, the use of summer showers increases significantly. Therefore, the drain must be of appropriate capacity. The ideal option is a merger drain pipe from the shower and the drain from the house.
Placing it on a hill will make cleaning as easy and quick as possible waste water. To prevent the collector's pit from crumbling, additionally strengthen its walls. When choosing the size of the waste pit, keep in mind that the volume should not be less than 2 cubic meters.
It is considered a mistake to place a septic tank under the shower stall or near its wall. If a large amount of water enters, it may collapse. Moreover, after a while drainage functions will be carried out worse and worse, which creates bad smell. Also, constant flooding destroys the foundation, which can lead to damage to the shower. So the drain must be located several meters outside the shower.
- Pallet installation.
To allow water to drain from the septic tank, you need to install a tray in the shower stall. You can take ready-made pallets, as in the photo. Or make it from stainless steel sheet. But the cheapest option is to use a wooden pallet. You can make do with boards. But when laying, gaps must be left so that water can escape. This lattice must be processed special means with antiseptic properties and polished to a smooth state. To make bathing more comfortable, place a mat on the floor.
The installation of the pallet ends with its fixation to the walls. The fastening element is self-tapping screws.
A simple shower option is ready to use. The only thing that won't hurt is external finishing the buildings. This is necessary so that the structure looks organically in general interior yard Features of the cladding can be seen in the video. You can also paint the ceiling if you want to see a beautiful shower from the inside.
Knowing how to make a shower in the country with your own hands, you can easily choose the simplest option and build a building on your site, even if you are new to the construction industry. The result will please you. Warm water on a sunny day and pleasant water procedures will captivate any summer resident.
Many people in summer time prefer to leave stuffy city apartments and spend time on suburban areas. However, the absence of such a benefit of civilization as a shower can significantly spoil the impression of even the most best vacation Outdoors. The solution to this problem is an outdoor shower, the construction of which is the subject of this article.
General information
Building an outdoor shower yourself is not at all difficult, and you don’t even need to spend a lot of time on it.
All you need is:
- Prepare a tank of suitable volume;
- Make the frame of the future shower stall;
- Cover the frame with any sheet material.
The main part of the work is making the frame. If you know how to work with a welding machine, then the best option there will be a frame made of profile pipes. This material is inexpensive, strong and quite durable.
Advice! If it is not possible to make a shower from pipes, you can use it for these purposes wooden beam, pre-treated with an antiseptic.
Below we will look at how to build a summer shower from pipes.
Construction Features
Materials
So, to build a summer shower from a profile pipe, you need to prepare the following materials:
Selecting a location
Before starting construction, you need to decide where the country shower made from a profile pipe will be located.
The following requirements apply to the site for future construction:
- It is advisable that the shower be located on a hill, which will improve the flow of water. If there is no such place on the site, you need to dig a drainage hole.
- The place should not be shaded, which will allow the water to quickly heat up in the sun.
- If there is a well on the site, the distance from it to the future shower should be at least 8 meters. In addition, the shower should be located at a sufficient distance from the foundation of the house.
Project preparation
Any construction, as you know, begins with the preparation of a project, and the construction of a summer shower is no exception. At the design stage, it is necessary to determine the size of the future structure and its design.
Most often, summer showers have the following dimensions:
- Height - 2 -2.5 m.
- Length and width – 1.5 m.
Of course, you can change the dimensions if you wish. For example, many increase the area of the building and equip it with a locker room. The latter can be separated from the shower with a curtain or partition.
Preparing the base and drainage pit
Do-it-yourself construction should begin with preparation drain hole and grounds. The size of the pit depends on the number of people living. The pit should be located close to the booth itself, for example, behind it.
The bottom of the pit must be filled with sand and gravel, and the walls are lined with stone or brick. When the pit is ready, you need to make a foundation with a drain.
The work is carried out in this order:
- First of all, you need to prepare the site - remove debris and grass.
- Then it is laid so that it goes into the hole at an angle. It is best to place the drain in the center of the shower stall.
- Next, you need to mark the future site and make formwork from boards or other material along the contour.
- After this, the bottom of the formwork must be covered with a layer of crushed stone and compacted.
- Then supports are installed at the corners of the formwork. To do this, the pipes need to be driven 20-30 centimeters into the ground. The racks can be positioned vertically or at a certain angle, as shown in the diagram.
- After installing the racks, a metal reinforcing mesh should be laid, which should rise slightly above the surface of the crushed stone.
- To complete the work, you need to fill the formwork with concrete.
Frame making
When the concrete hardens, you can make a frame for a summer shower from a profile pipe. Since in the process of work concrete screed will not be subjected to heavy loads, it is not necessary to wait 28 days for the concrete to gain grade strength.
The manufacture of the frame begins with the construction of a frame for the tank. To do this, you need to connect the racks along the perimeter, as well as diagonally. Then the racks must be connected with cross members located on three sides, which will add rigidity to the structure.
At this point, the frame for the shower from the profile pipe is ready, now you can start arranging it and covering it.
Shower arrangement
The arrangement of the shower begins with the installation of the tank. It is desirable that the container be flat and wide. In specialized stores you can purchase a special tank for a summer shower with installed fittings.
If the container has enough surface area, it can serve as a cabin roof.
Otherwise, you will first need to lay the roofing material.
- A fitting should be cut into one of the walls of the tank, which will face the cabin.
- After installing the tank on the roof, it is attached to the fitting ball valve and a shower head. The water supply is regulated by a ball valve.
Advice! To make the water heat up faster, the tank should be painted black.
