How to make a big arch. How to make an arch from plasterboard? Creating a load-bearing frame

Original design and design of a plasterboard arch

To save money this original solution It is quite possible to bring it to life with your own hands.

The use of such structures has gained popularity in various types of premises: private households, apartments, entertainment facilities, theaters, churches and even educational institutions. Volumetric arches have different diameter, in width they are narrow and located across the entire wall, simple or unusual in shape.

The model is based on a profile made of metal, in some cases made of wood, to which a formed bend made of special plasterboard is attached. It is made either in a factory or manually - by impregnating the material with moisture, as well as using the dry method, using cuts.

Watch the video: step-by-step instruction installation of a plasterboard arch.

Stages of arch production

Starting the manufacturing process, you need to determine its parameters, choose the type, the place where it will start and decide what the radius of curvature will be. Available on hand necessary tools will speed up this process.

Methods for bending gypsum boards

As you know, an arch is a curved model. For its manufacture, it is better to use special plasterboard with a thickness of 6.5 mm.

Options for bending drywall for an arch

However, its cost is quite high and not everyone can afford it, so there are three methods by which:

Frame construction

The arch is fixed to a metal frame. For it they use, cut with special scissors.

Assembled frame and metal profile for a plasterboard arch

The size of the workpiece must be taken into account. The result is four required parts and two horizontal parts, the width of a pattern. The profile is attached to the wall with a margin of 1 cm, taking into account the thickness of the drywall and reinforced corners.

In brick or concrete walls Using a hammer drill, drill holes 5 cm deep at a distance of 20-30 cm to place nylon dowels. The metal frame is secured with self-tapping screws.

Alternatively, the base can consist of wooden blocks; the only difference will be in securing the sheet at the bottom.

Arch installation procedure

Using the example of installing a classic arch, you can clearly see the order of work.

The front side is made;
The production and installation of end parts is carried out.

The blanks are screwed to the frame with metal screws at a distance of 10 cm, slightly recessed.

An example of attaching plasterboard sheets to a frame with self-tapping screws

The work must be carried out carefully, avoiding breakage of the material. Next, the plating process is carried out, which consists of the following operations:

Finishing

When the installation of the arch is completed, it is necessary to make sure that the structure does not extend beyond the opening, the parts are firmly attached, and only in this case proceed to finishing works. The main stages of finishing can be as follows:

Some nuances

It is advisable to design the arch to match the walls. It can be:

The selection of finishing material will depend on the wishes of the customer and his financial capabilities. Having studied all the intricacies of the process of making a plasterboard arch with your own hands, there is a possibility of creating this wonderful model, which will help give a special personality to the room.

Almost any design can be transformed and made more interesting by using plaster arches. At first glance, it may seem that making an arch from plasterboard is the lot of craftsmen.

But it is not so. The technology for making arches from plasterboard is quite simple, you just need to follow the sequence of work and apply a little diligence.

The shapes of plasterboard arches come in a wide variety, as do styles. They can be classic, radius, double, modern, ellipsoidal, etc. (see). Types of plasterboard arches are limited only by the imagination of the owner of the room.

The most popular now are modern plaster arches. They are often used for zoning rooms. For example, to highlight working area for cooking in the kitchen or playroom in the nursery.

How to take measurements

Another important step in the process of installing plasterboard arches is measurements. It depends on them:

The amount of materials needed to implement the idea.
How many Money will be needed to purchase raw materials for installing a plasterboard arch in the opening between rooms in a house or apartment.
How correct the shape will be of the structure.
What frame is under plasterboard arch install for maximum stability.

Measurements for installing a plasterboard arch are carried out as follows:

First, the dimensions of the length and width of the vertical frame are determined.
The next step is to measure the upper part of the arched opening.
If the design is non-standard, then it is better to carry out the measurements step by step, carefully measuring each segment in which the arch will be located in the future.

Dimensions of arches depending on the width of doorways

Making an arch

How to make arches from plasterboard: instructions for use (see).

So:

In order for the arch to be level, you need to take care of good lighting in the room.
Wear gloves and safety glasses.
Use a screwdriver to tighten the screws. The length of the screws should be 2–2.5 times thicker than the drywall.
The walls that will be hidden by the panels must be treated with waterproofing and antifungal primers.
Drywall arches in the hallway or where air humidity often rises should be made of waterproof plasterboard.

Installation of a metal frame for a plasterboard arch

So:

We close up the surface of the vault. We measure its length with a tape measure and cut off a strip from the profile of exactly the same size, and then cut off the shelves with metal scissors, as shown in the photo.
The maximum length of segments can be up to 12 cm. We bend the profile into an arc.

Installation of a wooden frame for a plasterboard arch

If you decide to create a wooden frame for drywall, you need to prepare:

plywood;
wooden beams;
screws or self-tapping screws.

Step by step steps:

First you need to draw a sketch of the future arch on plywood.
Then beams are fixed on plywood around the perimeter. This is done using screws or by placing the material on strong glue.
After this, the prepared frame should be mounted on the wall; this can be done using long screws (15 centimeters).
The distance between the screws should be no more than ten centimeters.

We fasten the arch

We begin to attach it to one of the elements with inside. We fasten with self-tapping screws from the drywall side. The connecting screw passes through the thickness of the slab and both profile flanges.

It is important! If it didn’t work out to pierce two shelves, repeat the connection. This stage is extremely important and can affect the efficiency of the entire work.

Summary structures in the form arched openings have already become familiar in the interiors of houses. With certain skills, many can cope with simple, straightforward gypsum plasterboard models on their own, but difficulties often arise in making a frame for a plasterboard arch.

An example of installing a frame for an arch made of plasterboard. The process of manufacturing such a product is more labor-intensive, it requires precision calculations and patience, but the result will bring satisfaction from your work.

In addition to rectilinear forms from plasterboard, they make different types arched structures.
Types of arches:

Classic, with identical arched equilateral bevels.
Asymmetrical, the curves differ from each other in shape.
Semi-arch, beveled surface on only one side of the opening.
Gothic shape with a pointed shape in the middle of the arc.
Wave-shaped from several arc-shaped elements.
Arch in oriental style, dome-shaped.

In addition, openings wall structures vary in size. All of them are made according to the same principle, but the craftsmen use different techniques and techniques.

An example of decorating a doorway with a plasterboard arch

Selection of drywall and profiles

To make a frame for an arch from plasterboard, an arch profile and plasterboard are produced in the manufacture of curved structures. The sheet is reinforced with fiberglass, unlike wall gypsum plasterboard, it bends easily and does not break.

The profile for the manufacture of curved structures is a perforated tape with cuts and bending stiffeners, outward and inward.

It differs by:

The standard height of the side shelf is 27 mm. Sizes vary depending on the manufacturer.
made from specially designed materials greatly facilitates the process. But it is not always possible to purchase arched profiles and gypsum boards in construction markets, especially in peripheral areas.

Craftsmen have adapted to making curved structures from wall metal racks, drywall. An alternative to the profile can be wooden beam.

Materials and tools

Before you begin manufacturing arched structures, you need to decide on the methodology for its manufacture. Will specialized materials be used (flexible gypsum board and profiles) or regular wall gypsum, profile. The purchase of materials will depend on this.

Diagram with dimensions of a plasterboard arch frame
Materials:

(flexible, wall).
Profiles, wooden beams.
Fasteners

Sequence of making an arch, methods

The sequence of actions when constructing arched structures is the same; the techniques used for assembly differ.

Drawing with dimensions of a frame for an arch made of gypsum plasterboard. Frame for an arch made of plasterboard, algorithm of actions:

Determined by the size and shape of the future structure.
Then an opening is prepared for it.
Measure the length of the profile and prepare it.
Attach the guide profile to the opening.
GCR sheets are cut in the shape of an arch.
Screwed bent profile to the cut drywall.
Attach the prepared structure to the guides.
Then the sides are sewn up with bendable, pre-prepared sheets.
The ends of the arch are processed.

Let's consider ways to assemble arched structures.

How to make a frame for an arch from plasterboard: installation process

pay attention to next moment. If the opening height is up to 2 meters, it is not advisable to make an arch in it, since it makes it visually lower. A functional standard opening must be at least two meters.

Preparing the opening

They are leveled and covered with plasterboard, less often with wood or plywood. GKL sheets are glued to the walls, checking or with a construction corner.

If the width of the opening allows it or the partition is entirely made, the racks are set up and sewn up.

Installation of the guide profile

The next stage is securing the guide profile. The most commonly used brand for this is PN (load-bearing profile) 50/40 (wall), screws 3.2 x 45 (35) mm, for metal for plasterboard structures. Fasten along the upper perimeter of the opening on both sides. 1.2-1.3 cm depart from the edge (width plasterboard sheet).

Before fixing the guides, it is necessary to mark the points of the horizon from which the construction of the arch structure will be based. Floors may not be perfectly level, so it is not always possible to base your measurements on them. To do this, mark an equal distance from the floor and draw a horizontal line. From it, mark the height of the mounting of the guide profiles.

Cutting an arched shape

We decide on the shape of the future arch. Measure the width and height.

Option for the design and shape of a plasterboard arch You can immediately cut out a square, screw it to the guides and draw a structure on it, adjust its shape and cut it out. But it’s more difficult to work in weight; it’s easier to assemble the arch on the floor or table.
For this:

There is no need to rush, as the gypsum board sheet is quite brittle material, chips may appear on it with sharp jerks of a jigsaw or saw.

Installation of a profile to a gypsum plasterboard blank

When an arched profile is used, measurements of the arcuate part of the arch are sufficient. Then cut out the workpiece and attach it with self-tapping screws (TV or TN length 25 mm). But often craftsmen make a profile for wall studs.

Assembled frame of an interior arch made of gypsum plasterboard. How to prepare a stand for an arch:

The corners at the ends of the profile are cut at an angle of approximately 45⁰. The structure is thus ready for attachment to the arched opening.

Arch installation

All stages installation work must be checked using a level and a building angle.
Sequence of work:

In general, the main structure of the arched opening is ready, all that remains is to cover the side concave surface with plasterboard. Watch in the video detailed process making a frame for a plasterboard arch.

We sew up the side concave surface of the plasterboard

In the case of using arched gypsum board, it is enough to cut a piece to size and attach it to the structure.
If you use wall or ceiling plaster, then there are two ways to bend it, dry and wet.

Dry method

Transverse cuts are made on the workpiece cut to size construction knife, cutting through the paper and lightly plaster. Apply it to the side surface, breaking along the cuts. The pitch of the notches depends on the bending angle, on average from 4 to 8 cm.

Dry method of bending drywall for an arch

Wet method

A blank made from a gypsum board sheet is placed on a stool or in a specially made form from boards that corresponds to the size of the arch. Frequent small notches are made on the inner surface or a needle roller is used for this purpose. Wet the surface from the inside with a wet sponge, place a wet sponge on top damp cloth. Within 15 - 20 minutes the plaster will begin to sag, and after 1.5-2 hours it will begin to bend. the required form.

Then it is carefully removed or removed from the stand, applied to the side surface of the structure, and secured. The material must be handled extremely delicately; it is better to carry out this stage of work with an assistant.

Today we, dear readers, will talk about how to make and install a plasterboard arch with your own hands. Let's figure out what it is, what types of it are most often found in modern interiors, what is needed for installation, and, in fact, its very order.

Types of interior arches

In general, there are several dozen types of openings, but we will highlight the most suitable ones from the point of view of practicality and design for the interior of an ordinary apartment.

Round or “classic”. The radius of curvature is equal to half the width of the opening. The most popular option. Looks especially advantageous in interiors made in classic style. The most significant drawback is that it takes away the height of the opening more than other types of arches.
Round arch - the most popular option
Segmental or “modern”. The radius of curvature is more than half the width of the opening. Distributed slightly less than round. This type of arch looks best on wide openings with thick walls. It may have sharp edges, or it may have smooth edges, which makes it more similar to the next option.
The arch in the Art Nouveau style also has many admirers
"Romantic" (or "romance"). It has two small curves and a flat top. It is much less common than the first two species, and looks more interesting. It also has a reduced consumption of drywall.
A romantic style arch looks more elegant than the most popular options
"Portal". Super simple and super cheap solution. Appropriate as in classic interior, and in high-tech style, and especially where the walls form an angle.
The simplest and cheapest solution
Half-arch. Most stylish option. Most suitable for modern interiors and is used quite often. It can be formed not only by a quarter of a circle, but also by a very small part of it (a circle of a very large radius), or, for example, it can only have a rounded corner.
The most stylish option

We have discussed the main types of arches, now we can briefly remind you why you should choose plasterboard.

Its main advantages include:

Lightness of design;
Cheapness;
Easy to install.

Tools and accessories

To assemble you will need to have:

Ceiling guide profiles PNP 28×27 mm.
Ceiling profiles PP 60×27 mm (possible).
Sealing tape.
"Dowel-nails."
Jigsaw.
The rule is aluminum.
Drywall sheet.
Putty for drywall joints.
Reinforcing tape for seams (serpyanka) or paper tape.
Roulette.
Hammer.
A stationery knife (or a special knife for cutting HA).
Hammer + drill.
Screwdriver.
Self-tapping screws for metal 25–35 mm (black, frequent pitch).
Acrylic primer.
Metal scissors.
Set of spatulas.
Plastic protective corner.

Here's what you need to stock up on to install an arch

To install an arch, it doesn’t make much difference what thickness of drywall you use. For the ends, 12.5 mm is best, and for the arch, 9 mm.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a plasterboard structure with your own hands

We have a room with an opening in which we would like to place an arch - let’s focus on the “modern” option:

Empty room with opening

Opening in the room close-up

First of all, we must decide what height and radius our arch will be. Our opening is 130 cm, we propose to set the height at 22 cm. The highest point should be at least 7 cm away from the top floor (taking into account the thickness of the plasterboard), so that two guides can be secured without problems, which means that the lowest point is lowered by 22 + 7 = 29 cm.

But for now we are not interested in this distance, but in the fact that WITHOUT taking into account the thickness of the lower strip of the main line, that is, 28.1 cm. We draw lines on both sides in the opening. The thickness of the wall in our example is 17 cm, and in order to mount the frame, we need to take into account the thickness of the drywall. Take a small, preferably long piece of HA and the rule. We place the rule horizontally along the wall through the opening and slip our piece under it. We fasten the guide profiles at a distance equal to the thickness of the drywall from the corner, like this:

We fasten the guide profiles at a distance equal to the thickness of the drywall

Naturally, we glue each profile with sealing tape. We slightly bend the lower edge of the horizontal profile - we will have an inclined surface. We do the same on the other side of the opening, after which we attach the profiles to the top. We insert them into the already fixed side ones and, constantly monitoring them with a rule with a piece of “plaster”, fix them with dowel nails. It turns out something like this:

Installing profiles to the top

Opening with installed profiles

The next step is to mark the sheet of drywall directly under the arch. The most convenient way to do this is on the floor: first we mark rectangles 130×28.1 cm, then we draw our radius with an improvised compass (using thread or tape measure).

To draw the radius, we need an improvised compass

In the case of a classic arch, this would be a piece of cake, but with our “modern” everything is not so obvious. How to choose the radius? Only the height and width are known. Let's remember school course geometry. For clarity, let’s build everything on paper and calculate the radius using the Pythagorean theorem, indicating the width of the opening - a, and the height of the arch - b:

It's time to remember the Pythagorean theorem

In our case, we get a radius of 107 cm. Using improvised means, we draw arcs on a sheet of paper and cut out the resulting shapes with a jigsaw. Now we can hang them on our exposed guide profiles, or we can not hang them for now. This will depend on where it will be more convenient for you to mount the next guides: “on the ground” or “in place”. Let's try it on the spot, sewing one blank to the frame for now. We will now need to take a piece of the guide profile the length of the arc of the arch and approximately every 65 mm. cut one side and back edge with metal scissors, like this:

Close-up of profile cuts

This is necessary so that the profile can bend. The distance of 65 mm was not chosen by chance - if our wall is thicker than 25 cm, it is recommended to insert jumpers from the ceiling profile, which, as is known, has a width of 60 mm, into these guides in increments of about 40 cm. In our case, jumpers are not needed. We sew the profile onto the sheet, being careful not to pierce your finger.

Sew the profile onto the sheet

Now we repeat the operations on the other side of the wall, fasten the sheet to the frame and sew on the guides:

And now - the second side face

The same installation method is used, for example, for boxes.

We remember the need to chamfer the ends of the sheet.

Now all that remains is to attach the strip at the bottom. If the arch has a large radius, as in our example, the strip can be attached immediately - the drywall bends well (much better across the sheet than along it). If the radius is too small and there is a danger that the strip will break, just moisten it with water; no needle rollers are needed. Dampen the top with a brush, let it sit for a while and you will see that it will bend even easier. You can make a long strip out of several short ones, but then you will have to insert jumpers at the joints and additionally process the seams. Our sheet width is smaller than the width of the opening, so we are forced to cut a strip along the sheet, but it’s okay - at such a radius it can be bent without problems.

Finished plasterboard arch

Close-up of the finished result

That's all. All that remains is to seal the seams and place the protective corners. They are usually placed on gypsum putty. This task, let’s say right away, is quite difficult, since the corners constantly stick out everywhere, wrinkle, etc. Usually they have to be fixed with self-tapping screws at several points, and after the putty has set, they must be unscrewed.

Installing plastic corners is a difficult but mandatory process

Besides, plastic corners(and regular metal ones too) are quite thick, so after installing them we advise you to additionally level the surface with putty “as a rule”, using Fugenfüller. And only then putty everything together with the finish.

In the case when the arch is made in a partition from HA, everything becomes even simpler. You will only have to suffer at the stage of installing the corners, but without this you will not be able to form a clear corner any other way. Other types of arches are assembled in the same way, only the markings differ.

Now we can easily with my own hands assemble an arch from plasterboard. Good luck to you in your construction business!

Starting a large-scale cosmetic or even major renovation With complete change interior design, owners often want to bring many interior design ideas to life. One of them could be turning an ordinary rectangular doorway into an arched one. If you figure out how to make an arch from plasterboard, then you can easily install it yourself.

An arch can affect the structure of everything design solution interior, and additional decorative overlay a certain style will set the design of the entire room.

Having studied detailed instructions for the installation of the arch, having prepared everything necessary materials and tools, it is quite possible to make an arch from a rectangular doorway in just one day.

It should be noted that an arch made using the same technology can transform not only a doorway, but also wider passages that divide large rooms into zones.

Materials and tools for making and installing arches

In order to bring a boring doorway into a new state and get a neat, aesthetic arch, you need to prepare the following materials:

GKL plasterboard sheet with a thickness of 9 ÷ 12 mm.

Galvanized metal profile or wooden beam for making a frame.
Metal perforated corner for strengthening the joints of drywall planes. Fiberglass mesh is also suitable for this process.

Self-tapping screws for fastening drywall and perforated corners to metal profiles.
Gypsum-based putty - rough (starting) and finishing.

To carry out installation, the following tools must be available:

Electric jigsaw and drill.
Ruler, square, tape measure and pencil.
Grinding machine or metal scissors .
Screwdriver.
Construction knife.
Roller with metal spikes.
A flexible strip that will help create an even arch shape.
Spatula and grater for working with putty.
Sponge, water container, thick soft fabric(you can use an old terry towel).

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Taking measurements and preparing structural elements

Before you start manufacturing arched elements, it is necessary to take measurements of the opening where the arch will be mounted. Its width and the required vertical distance are measured, from top to bottom, on the side walls of the opening. These parameters will determine how rounded the arch will be.

In addition, it is necessary, based on the thickness of the drywall, to determine the depth of its installation, since it must be fixed at the same level with the plane of the wall - it must be recessed deep into the doorway.

You need to step back from the corners of the doorway to a distance that will be equal to the thickness of the drywall and make appropriate markings by drawing installation lines for the frame profiles.
According to the obtained parameters of the opening size, using a grinder or metal scissors, pieces of the metal profile are cut - two for fixing horizontally and four for fixing on the side walls of the doorway. They are installed along previously marked lines, leaving space for drywall.

If the walls of the opening are made of brick or constructed of concrete, use a drill (perforator) directly through them metallic profile Holes are drilled in the wall into which plastic dowels are driven into which the fastening screws will be screwed.

The plasterboard parts will be attached to this structural element - the frame.

The next step is to mark and cut out two plasterboard panels using the previously obtained dimensions. They must fit exactly into the door opening between the walls.
Next, on these panels you need to draw and then cut out two arched parts from them. In this case, you need to act very precisely, since if you mark the arc incorrectly, you can easily get an ugly arch skewed to the side.
Curvilinear "trajectory" cutting, that is, the arcuate part of the arch itself can be marked different ways, and they are all equally accessible.

First way

The marking is carried out as follows:

— First, the panel is laid on a flat horizontal surface.

- Then, along the upper horizontal and on both vertical sides, the thickness of the metal profile, already fixed in the opening on the walls, is marked. Usually it is 50 mm. Straight lines are drawn along these points, parallel to the edges of the panel;

— To draw a semicircle, take a pencil and a piece of non-elastic cord, which is tied to the pencil so that it rotates freely in this loop.

A homemade “compass” applies the required arc of the arch

A self-tapping screw is screwed into the center of the circle. Then a cord is attached to it, so that the sharpened pencil lead falls at the intersection point of the previously drawn lines parallel to the left and right edges with the bottom edge of the panel. The result is a kind of compass, capable of drawing circles of the required diameter in this case.

The markup can be transferred to the second panel simply by copying it from the first.

Second way

For the second method of marking the line of the arched arc, you will need a flexible plastic strip, a pencil and two pairs of hands.

- First you need to determine what height the curved part of the arc will have in highest point. To do this, the bar is placed in the door opening between the profiles fixed to it. One end of the bar must be attached to bottom edge of the profile, fixed on the side left wall of the opening, its highest point on the bend should touch midpoint horizontally fixed profile, and the third point of contact of the bar will be bottom edge of profile on the right wall.

— At the last point of contact with the profile, a mark is made on the bar - it will determine the length of the very arc that will determine the curved section being cut out.

- Next, the same thing is done on the drywall panel, where, just like in the first option, 50 mm are already marked along the edges. One of the masters holds the bar so as to align its beginning and the mark made with the lines, and the second draws the border of an arched semicircle along it.

— Then, the marked area is cut out with a jigsaw.

Third option

The third option is a template of the arched section made on hard cardboard according to the dimensions taken from the door. It can also be marked using a homemade “compass” made from a cord and a pencil.

— The finished template is placed on a plasterboard panel, its outline is outlined with a pencil, and then the part to be removed is cut out with a jigsaw.

— The template will not allow you to make a mistake and the semicircle will be perfectly even.

The next step is to prepare a metal profile for the curved parts of the frame, onto which the lower part of the cut plasterboard panels will be attached. To cut the required length of the profile, you can use the same flexible strip on which the length of the arc that forms the arched vault is marked.

You need to prepare two such sections of the profile. Then cuts are made on them using metal scissors or a grinder, thanks to which it will be easy to bend the profile into an arc with the desired bending radius.

It should be especially noted that if the arch has a small thickness, then sometimes one wide metal profile with made on him cuts to secure to him two panels on both sides. The profile must be recessed inside the arch to the thickness of the drywall used, since later bottom bar the arch will be attached precisely to this curved part of the frame.

The rest of the elements will be as we go installation work– usually there are no special difficulties with them.

Installation of the frame base of the arch

Metal frame made of galvanized profile

Installation of the arch begins with the installation of plasterboard elements with cut out semicircles that are fixed in the doorway to metal profiles screwed into it.

To secure drywall, use special screws and a screwdriver.

These elements are fixed on both sides of the doorway.

Next, a notched and bent metal profile is screwed onto the inside of the cut arched opening. When carrying out work, you need to hold the profile with one hand, pressing it exactly in the shape of the arch.

This part is screwed first to one side and then to the second.

The frame will not have proper rigidity and completeness of the structure if it is not installed between metal arched elements perpendicular sections of the profile. They will tie the plasterboard walls of the arch together. These jumpers are installed in several places in the arched structure.

To secure the jumpers to the profile, self-tapping screws with wide heads and a sharper nose are used.

Installation of a wooden arch frame

If making a frame from a metal profile seemed too complicated a process, then you can mount it from wood.

To do this, you need to prepare bars measuring 20 × 20 mm - for fixing on plasterboard, and 30 × 30 mm - for fixing on opening walls.
Next, an arch is marked on the drywall, cut out, and then inner surface elements are screwed wooden blocks with ends located in a circle.

It is left along the edges of the part free place, 30 mm in size, which will be occupied by the bars installed in the doorway.
The walls of the doorway are marked in the same way as when attaching a metal profile, only instead of it, 30 × 30 mm bars are fixed along the markings
Then, the prepared arched panel is placed in its “standard place” and screwed into the opening to the wooden blocks installed in it.

You can do it differently - fasten the bars to the edges of the drywall, and then screw the finished stasis panel to the wall. But in this case, it will not be very convenient to work, especially when the second panel with an arch is attached, since it will be difficult to climb between the two arched elements with a hand with a screwdriver.

Cable routing

Before proceeding to the manufacture and installation of the lower part of the arch, electrical cable, if lighting is provided in the opening.

The contact ends of the cable are secured to the metal profile approximately in the place where the spotlights should be installed. It is best if the cable is enclosed in plastic corrugated pipe– to avoid accidental damage to the insulation on the sharp edges of galvanized profiles.

When prepared bottom band drywall will be installed, it will perfectly cover all the ugliness of the wires.

Manufacturing and installation of the lower plasterboard panel of the arch

When the frame and front parts of the arch are installed, you can proceed to making the bottom strip, which will cover the entire unsightly appearance of the frame.

First, the total length of the arched bend of the arch and the width of the distance between the installed arched frame parts are measured with a tape measure.

The dimensions are transferred to the drywall, and a rectangular strip of the required dimensions is cut out of it.

Next, the plasterboard strip needs to be bent into an arch; however, the material is hard and fragile, so it can easily be broken, ruining the part. In order for the process etc went smoothly, you can use two methods to bend this material:

1. The prepared part is marked along its entire length into transverse strips 50 mm wide.

Next, cuts are made along the marked lines, approximately half the depth of the drywall.
Then the part is carefully bent and immediately, without delay, screwed to the metal profile, which is located inside the arched structure.

Video: an easy-to-make plasterboard arch

2. The second method of bending drywall is, in principle, even simpler than the first, but will take a little longer, since you will have to wait for the material to take the desired shape.

First, a needle roller is passed over the plasterboard strip with force, which pierces with its sharp spikes upper layer cardboard

If the master does not have such a roller in his arsenal, you can use a sharp construction knife - with it, cuts measuring 20 ÷ 30 mm are made on the surface of the drywall, at a distance of 15 ÷ 20 mm from each other, both in length and width.

The next step is to moisten the panel on the side of the punctures with water using a sponge and lean it against the wall, placing the long side vertically.

After about 15 ÷ 20 minutes, you will be able to see the first results - the panel will begin to bend under its own weight. Then the part is wetted again and left for another 40 minutes.

For the perfect bend of the arch, you can specially knock down a structure from three boards in the shape of the letter P (a kind of jig) with the dimensions of the place in the doorway where the arch will be installed. Then turn it over, placing it on the horizontal part.

Next, in the same way, having moistened the plasterboard piece with water, it is laid on the legs of an inverted letter P, wetted side up. After 20 minutes, its middle will begin to sink into the structure. Then, it is wetted again and left for 40÷ 60 minutes for complete subsidence to the horizontal lintel of the structure.

By the way, a similar method of bending a plasterboard strip sometimes allows you to make an arch without a frame at all, as shown in the attached video:

Video : giving bending a plasterboard arch

The still wet drywall is placed on the metal profile using self-tapping screws, which are screwed in at a distance of no more than 100 mm from each other.

The next step is to cut holes in the designated places on this part of the arch, into which, after finishing, it will be possible to install Spotlights(if their installation is provided).

Having made the holes, you need to pull the cables located inside the structure to them, but you should not completely pull them out of the holes, since the protruding ends of the wires will interfere with finishing.

Arch finishing

Having completed the installation of the frame and sheathing, you can proceed to finishing the arch with putty. Only by covering all the seams and recesses from the screw heads with putty mixture and leveling it can you get a neat arch.

The puttying process is carried out in three stages:

— the first layer evens out deep flaws;

— the second — displays the even shapes of the arch;

- the third layer is the finishing layer, and with its help the ideal smoothness of the surface is achieved.

However, before taking on the putty, it is recommended to strengthen the corners of the arched openingspecial perforated corner, which will easily take any curved shape.

Instead of corners, you can use fiberglass mesh, but it will not give such a clear, smooth and reinforced edge as a corner can provide. The corner is installed using self-tapping screws, which are screwed in at a distance of 150 ÷ 200 mm from each other.

Next, you can move on to working with .

For work with drywall, acrylic or gypsum-based putty is used, intended for interior work.

The acrylic composition can be purchased in ready-made paste form, while the gypsum mixture is sold in dry form. construction mixture. Knead it immediately before use. This is best done using a mixer attachment that is attached to a drill.

You need to know that you cannot immediately mix a large amount of putty, as it sets very quickly, so it must be prepared in small portions. The packaging of the building material must contain instructions, which must be carefully studied to find out exact time“life” of the prepared composition and complete drying of the plastered surface.

The first step is finishing the joints of drywall and the main walls of the doorway.

The work is carried out using wide and medium-width spatulas. One of them applies putty to the joint, and, as far as possible, smoothes it, comparing the surfaces of the drywall and the doorway.

Having sealed the joints between the drywall and the wall in the door opening, you can immediately close the screw heads on this part of the structure with putty. When carrying out this process, you need to remember that the surface must be perfectly flat, so it is necessary to achieve exactly this effect. For this stage of work, you can use a metal trowel, which will immediately cover a large area.

The first layer is used to seal deep joints between the drywall and the wall. Here it is very important to distribute the putty into all the recesses and chips, since it is necessary to bring the seams on the same level with the wall and arched structure.

Do not apply too thick layers of material, as damp putty can quickly separate from the wall surface. It’s okay, if necessary, you can put four layers of putty instead of three - they will stick much more securely than two or three very thick ones.

Applying putty to all wide joints before it dries, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh should be placed on top. This easy-to-use material can be purchased in any desired width, so there will be no problems with strengthening wide gaps.

The required length of mesh is measured from the reel, and using a spatula, this tape is then pressed into the putty, stretched and leveled.

The arched bend, trimmed on both sides with a perforated corner, also needs to be treated with a layer of putty, comparing the surfaces.

If the junction of two drywall planes is arched doorway strengthens fiberglass mesh, then, if necessary, it can be cut in some places, since it should lie perfectly flat on the surface, without waves or folds.

When all the seams are sealed and reinforced with reinforcing materials, the first layer is left to dry.
After it has dried, go over the surfaces with medium-grit sandpaper to level the dried putty. By doing this, you need to try to “knock down” all the sharp protrusions so that they do not interfere with further work. But, at the same time, the structure must be processed extremely carefully so as not to expose the reinforcing elements.

Aligned joints must be thoroughly cleaned of dust using a damp sponge.

Next, you can move on to the second thin layer of finishing putty, which should cover and level all surfaces.
After it dries, the entire structure is cleaned with fine sandpaper (about 220 grit).

Before applying the third layer, you must again carry out measures to clean all joints and smooth surfaces from putty dust.

Finishing layer must design the arch “cleanly”

The finishing coat should give a smooth finish. The putty is applied very thin layer, and in this case, a ready-made paste-like material made on an acrylic base is best suited.

During the work process, it is necessary to smooth out all marks left by the spatula.

Having finished, the structure is left to dry for at least 8 ÷ 12 hours. The level of dryness of the material can be determined by its color - it should lighten to pure white.
Next comes the grinding process, and it is better to carry it out with a special grinder, on which the fine-grained sandpaper(grain 280 ÷ 400), and then a soft polishing cloth.

Sanding is carried out until the surface becomes perfectly smooth.

After the arch is sanded, you can paint it, if this was planned. After painting, special built-in installations are installed in the doorway

Making and installing an arch is not such a complicated process. The main thing is to understand the little things, how each stage of the work goes, and having understood all the nuances, you can purchase materials and get down to business.

Prices for popular types of putty

Putties

And for those who have already got their hands on it, we can offer a more complicated problem: