How to feed an orchid at home. Proper feeding of orchids during flowering. Fertilizers for orchids

To each the florist wants to see not only blooming, but also to see this beauty for as long as possible.

And each of those who maintain this at home beautiful flower, wondered: how to achieve abundant flowering of an orchid?

You will find the answers in this article.


How beautiful an orchid flower is, so capricious at at home.

In order for an orchid to bloom profusely, it needs good care.

But if we bring the climate closer to natural conditions, then can be observed in several periods. To do this, you should also know a number of factors. Let's take a closer look: what to do to make an orchid bloom profusely?

Flower age

What to do to make orchids bloom magnificently and beautifully again? Before you wish orchid, you need to know a little about her age. If the flower is grown with my own hands, then the signal for will be age, which varies from 1.5 years to 3 years. It is during this period that the plant reveals its potential.

The duration of the period is explained by the type of flower and the condition of its maintenance. During this period of time, up to 5-8 adults should be formed.

Flowering too early can lead to death. Since the plant will not have time to accumulate strength. When buying orchids in a store, you should pay attention to the presence of adult leaves.

Plant location, proper lighting


Southern part of the house -
the most optimal location for an orchid. At the same time, the plant requires shading from direct rays.

Once the buds form, it is no longer advisable to move them even a few centimeters. Not to mention their turn. All rearrangement procedures can only be performed when all the opened flowers are formed.

This usually lasts 10 days. Then any corner of the house can be decorate with blossoming grapes colors. The plant is not afraid of partial shade during this period.

When buying an orchid, during the formation of flower stalks, you should notice the side of the pot that faces the light. Install the houses in the same position. This will help him adapt in a short time.

Flowering time can come at any time of the year. The main thing here is to provide the plant with enough light. In winter, autumn you will need artificial lighting.

Important! As lighting fixtures use phytolamps. They have the ability to scatter light. And what is very important is that they do not make the air space near the flower dry.

Ambient temperature and humidity

Lack of light does not allow the orchid to grow. And the buds that appeared suddenly dry out and fall off. Some gardeners mistakenly think that the entire plant needs artificial light.

Actually this is not true. Enough lighting only the top part. Daylight hours should be 10-12 hours.

The ambient temperature in the room plays a significant role. Best options during the day - from 20 to 24 degrees C, at night: 15-18. When the difference is within 5-6 degrees.

IN summer season an orchid is possible take it out onto the balcony, where she will receive a natural temperature difference. It is the difference that makes the plant bloom.

It is necessary to constantly monitor the temperature in the apartment.

IN winter period can be arranged mini fridge. Use a box, for example, a shoe box, and protect the pot from outside window sill.

The temperature from the window will be lower than in the room. These procedures should be continued at night for 10 days.

Orchids sitting in pots get enough moisture from. So you don't have to worry about humidity.

But specimens grown epiphytically, that is, on bark, need it. And also those who are with the weak. For this purpose they use several methods to obtain the desired humidity:

  • Place vessels with wet expanded clay;
  • Container with water;
  • Sprayed hot water, heated to 35 degrees;
  • Install a humidifier.

Good microclimate is provided by flowers, standing next door.

Watering mode

At the time when the buds are pouring, it should be moderate. Re-irrigate after complete drying of the substrate. After all, in nature, flowers prepare for this period.

The insects that do this work are do not fly in rainy weather. Therefore, you should also refrain from doing so.

Use water for irrigation that is well settled and heated to 35 degrees C. In nature monsoon rains heated to exactly this temperature. You can use defrosted water after turning off the refrigerator.

Excess moisture can have a negative effect on it; it will simply wither and fall off.

Worth knowing! Before opening the flower, it is better to underwater than to overfill.

Always connect your actions With natural phenomena , then there will be no problems with flowering.

Some orchids love dried substrate during opening and flowering. It is better to water in the morning; by evening the substrate should dry out.

Some species require re-watering already on the third day, others after a month. Signal for irrigation can serve. They become visually wrinkled. A day after the next watering, you can notice that the leaf has straightened out and the wrinkles have disappeared.

IN winter time Place the flowerpot on polystyrene foam so that the lower layer of roots from the window sill does not become overcooled.

Pot of orchids immersed in a container of water for 10 minutes so that all roots have access. Next, the water should be poured out of the pan or a flowerpot should be used to drain excess liquid.

Correct fertilization scheme

In nature, orchids receive nutrients from the air and dew drops. Therefore, at home you can spray bait or add it in liquid form:

Avoid drafts and exposure to direct sunlight after procedures.

Basic prerequisites for abundant flowering

Orchids bloom for 3 months, and some specimens, depending on the species, can last up to 8 months. On abundant flowering orchids the following factors influence:


Stimulation of flower stalk growth

A plant with 5-8 leaves is ready to bloom. But how to increase the growth of an orchid? To make flower stalks grow more actively, growth stimulants are used, i.e. fertilizer:


Rules for feeding with drugs

During active growth, liquid NPK fertilizer must be applied in a ratio of 8:3:5.

When a peduncle appears, the dosage of NPK changes to 2:6:6.

Feeding is carried out every 2 weeks if activity falls on summer period. In winter gap between food is 30 days.

Fertilizers should be alternated to root and surface. Frequency will prevent the roots from getting burned. During spraying, reduce the dosage from the instructions by half, for complex fertilizers - by 3-4 times.

Plants are not just fed, since the substrate contains there are nutrients.

How to feed orchids? Florists recommend using liquid fertilizers. The most popular of them:

  1. "Greenworld"(Germany) – before use, shake and dilute according to the instructions for the root system with 10 ml per 3 liters of water, in case of spraying, reduce the dosage by 2 times. Solution Brown without smell. Remove during spraying excess moisture from growth points;
  2. "Bona Forte"(Russia) – complex fertilizer. Stimulates re-blooming;
  3. "Kemira-lux". Judging by the reviews of flower growers, it occupies a leading place. There are no complaints about him;
  4. Substral, Etisso And BioEkor also have many fans;
  5. "Flora". Contains natural ingredients. The fertilizer is used for foliar feeding. The container is equipped with a sprayer.

Advice! Look at the label for the amount of NPK in the solution. So that you can decide at what stage to apply the fertilizer.

Reader questions about flowering:

How to increase duration?

Before full disclosure buds keep the plant in a well-lit place, at least 12 hours. Then move the flower to another place with a lower temperature. You should not fertilize them during flowering.

When is stress good?

Not all stress has a detrimental effect on flowers. Some of them stimulate flowering. For example, a difference in night and day temperatures by 4-5 degrees C, overdrying of the substrate. It is necessary to subject it to such stress during the period when the plant has up to 8 leaves, that is, it is ready to flower.

How does a sudden temperature change affect?

There is a concept useful and tolerable temperature. When nighttime readings vary between 15-18 degrees C, and daytime readings range from 20-24, the tolerable values ​​are 15 and 24 degrees C, respectively.

The temperature in the intermediate segment is healthy. Any deviation of transferred quantities in one direction or another causes the plant to become stressed.

Why does the death of old roots provoke the process?

When old roots die suction capacity decreases plants. The result is a lack of moisture, which provokes a bookmark. flower buds. From where the peduncle extends, then the buds.

How does reducing watering affect bud opening?

Buds waiting to open ready for pollination. Exactly when there is no rain. Orchids also respond to lack of moisture. That's why they open up.

Why do orchid leaves wither?

Overheating and direct Sun rays, even if shaded, have a negative effect not only on the leaves, but also on the flower as a whole. It should be moved to partial shade.

Useful video

Find out in the video how to make an orchid bloom profusely at home:

Watch the video to see what stimulates orchid flowering:

Video instructions on how to properly water an orchid:

Watch the video to see what temperature conditions are needed for orchids:

Conclusion

For beginning flower growers:

  1. Do not water orchids with boiled or distilled water., since it does not contain beneficial microelements that the plant feeds on;
  2. Can't be allowed to the flower insects, capable of pollinating it. He will die instantly;
  3. Do not wear perfume in the room where the orchid is located;
  4. Don't put it in the kitchen, where there is always fruit., from which a specific substance ethylene is released;
  5. A signal for the next watering can be the absence of drops on the walls of a transparent flowerpot.

At first glance, a novice florist may grab your head and decide that he cannot cope with growing orchids.

But it's not all that bad if you love flowers. Enough to study all tips and tricks, and the plant will respond with lush flowering.


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Delicate and fragile Orchidaceous is the prima donna of the kingdom of flora, gathering numerous fans at her feet. Caring for a beauty is akin to art, but in return, she will delight you with a healthy appearance and a bright riot of flowering.

IN indoor culture Special fertilizers for orchids are widely used, helping to unlock the plant’s potential and support it during flowering. The assortment is varied - mineral fertilizers, humic preparations enriched with macro- and microelements, fertilizing with an extract of biologically active substances. Let's try to figure out what, why and how to use it.

Menu for a tropical beauty

The substrate for orchids performs a supporting function rather than a nutritional one. Of course, some minimum of mineral components are present, but without renewal they are quickly washed out. How can we compensate for the deficiency in order to fertilize the orchid comprehensively and provide a full set of mineral compounds, vitamins, and enzymes at home? Let's start with the vitally important.

Biologically significant chemical elements

First of all, this is the trinity nitrogen - phosphorus - potassium (NPK), which forms the skeleton of living organisms, as well as a number of microelements responsible for the health and quality of flowering plants.

  • Nitrogen is an essential component of all organic compounds and proteins. It triggers photosynthesis processes, resulting in intensive growth of green mass. Nitrogen deficiency is determined by shredding, paleness of leaves, fragility of the stem, and slow development.
  • Potassium is responsible for carbohydrate metabolism, immunity and health of orchids, and is involved in the formation of flower buds. If there are few buds and the flowers are small, this is the first sign of potassium deficiency.
  • Phosphorus promotes the formation of the root system, is responsible for the transmission of hereditary characteristics, and stimulates the processes of flowering and fertilization. Phosphorus starvation depresses, weakens the plant, and slows down its growth.
  • Without boron and magnesium, the NPK triad is poorly absorbed, energy metabolism deteriorates, and vegetation slows down. Dying of the growing point, scanty tassels, drying of buds, shortening of flowering time are evidence of a deficiency of these elements.
  • Lack of iron and sulfur leads to chlorosis of leaves. They become pale, gradually turn yellow and die.

In microdoses, representatives of the tropical family need sulfur, zinc, silicon, chlorine, manganese and more than a dozen minerals for feeding.

Features of nutrition in nature

To understand how to properly fertilize an orchid, let’s look at the features of its life activity in natural conditions.

  1. Being an epiphyte, it receives the substances necessary for vegetation exclusively in liquid state– with rain flow, dew drops, fog, condensation.
  2. Not only the root system, but also the entire integumentary surface of the plant works for nutrition.
  3. The special structure of the roots, covered with porous tissue, allows them to absorb and accumulate mineral elements from an aqueous solution.
  4. Without soil “underfoot”, in case of drought the plant is forced to store nutrients (fleshy stem, leaves).

Rules for feeding indoor crops

Having understood how a plant replenishes its reserves in natural environment, we will fertilize the orchid at home in a manner consistent with nature. To achieve abundant and long-lasting flowering of your pet, follow a number of requirements.

  • Fertilizing a houseplant begins from the moment of active vegetation of leaves, stems, shoots and continues until the first bud blooms. The resulting supply of minerals will be enough for the entire flowering period, and overfeeding can provoke premature shedding of petals.
  • While the leaf biomass is growing, fertilizing with an NPK ratio in favor of nitrogen (8:3:5) is used. From the moment the peduncle is forced out, they switch to fertilizers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus (2: 6: 6).
  • The optimal liquid consistency of fertilizers. Various granules, sticks, tablets dissolve and are distributed unevenly, making it difficult to control the amount of substance consumed.
  • It is necessary to monitor the acidity of the substrate. The optimal range is pH 5.5–6.5. If it is lower, the environment is acidic, which means that basic macroelements are poorly absorbed. High alkali content interferes with the absorption of boron, copper, and iron. Modern full mineral fertilizers are focused on a certain level of acidity, increasing or decreasing it accordingly.

Important! The acidity of the planting mixture can be determined at home using indicator paper (sold in wildlife stores). Placed in an aqueous infusion of the substrate, it changes color relative to the pH level.

  • During active root growth, to avoid burns of young skin, it is preferable foliar feeding. The concentration of the mineral fertilizer solution in this case is at least half as weak, and fine spraying promotes rapid absorption of nutrients. This method is also indicated for weakened, infected orchids.
  • The frequency of fertilizing depends on the phase of the growing season; you can also focus on the seasons. From the beginning of spring to mid-autumn - every 2 weeks; in winter, once a month is enough.

Important! Remember the 5 “don’ts” for root feeding: a month after transplantation, during the dormant period, during flowering, diseased plants, newly acquired ones.

Fertilizer process algorithm

Feeding actively vegetating orchids at home involves several step-by-step actions.

  • Water thoroughly 1-2 days before you plan to feed the plant. A moist substrate will be saturated faster and will protect the roots from the aggressive effects of chemical compounds.
  • Preparation of the solution. Do this according to the instructions, with water room temperature. When using mineral fertilizers or non-targeted fertilizers, reduce the concentration recommended by the manufacturer by at least half.
  • The flower pot is immersed in a container with the solution so that the main part of the roots has access to it, and left for 15–20 minutes.
  • They give excess liquid drain through the drainage holes.

Important! When spraying phalaenopsis with nutrients, avoid exposure to the sun, through air flow, and do not allow large drops to flow between the leaf axils.

Assortment of mineral and organic fertilizers

Before you decide to feed your orchid at home, decide on the type of fertilizer.

Complex mineral supplements

The best choice is soluble mineral fertilizers for orchids. In them, all components are balanced taking into account the needs of the plant before and after flowering. Microelements are supplied in chelated form - that is, they are already prepared for effective absorption, and, therefore, will not settle as dead weight in the form of salts. Vitamins of group B, PP, amino acids, and growth regulators will be beneficial.

A lot of positive feedback O liquid fertilizers and fertilizer mixtures Bona Forte, Fertika Kristalon, Mister Tsvet, German Etisso, Polish BioEkor.

Balanced organics

Beneficial effect on flowering organic fertilizers, enriched with macro- and microelements. They are made on the basis of an extract from vermicompost extract. Natural humic substances are excellent stimulants; they enhance budding, splendor and brightness of inflorescences.

Natural preparations Agricola, Stimovit, Reasil are popular.

Foliar feeding

There are situations when you do not need fertilizer for orchids at home, but a drug for resuscitation. The role of an ambulance is played by foliar fertilizers containing the entire range of nutrients, but supplemented with phytohormones and amino acids. Thanks to these substances, as well as fine spraying, the plant receives soft nutrition and strengthens its resistance to diseases and adverse factors. The drug of this direction, Doctor Foley, is widely known. It is used to fertilize not only weakened specimens, but also to support the plant during flowering.

Material prepared by: Nadezhda Zimina, gardener with 24 years of experience, industrial engineer

© When using site materials (quotes, tables, images), the source must be indicated.

Caring for an orchid at home requires certain knowledge. In the hands of an inexperienced gardener, this beautiful flower will not reveal its full potential, will begin to hurt and stop blooming. Orchid is considered capricious plant, but if you follow certain rules of care, the tropical beauty will feel great in the apartment, regularly blooming clusters of magnificent flowers.

Rules of care

Orchid loves stability. It reacts negatively to any environmental changes. Air humidity, light level, increase or decrease in temperature - various deviations from the usual norm can cause diseases in the plant, or even destroy it.

When planning to buy an orchid in a store, think in advance about where to place it in the apartment - the place should be bright, warm, without drafts.

Pay attention to which side the flower stood towards the light, and when you bring it home, arrange it the same way. This will help reduce the time it takes for the orchid to get used to the new environment. But it is better to change the soil in the pot with the plant, despite the fact that this will aggravate the stress on the orchid. The fact is that in the greenhouses where these beautiful flowers are grown, various pests often appear, which “come” to your home in a pot along with the flower. To get rid of them, The orchid needs to be replanted.

Another reason for a transplant– small sizes of containers in which plants are planted in greenhouses. Most often they are filled with special nutrient granules that “feed” the flower throughout short term, then their nutritional value dries up. From this point of view, a specially selected soil mixture is much more convenient - fertilizers can be added to it at any time for the flowering and growth of the orchid, which makes caring for it easier.

"Coniferous"

To prepare it, you need to take cones and dry pine bark, white sphagnum moss (can be bought at the pharmacy), fern root, charcoal. All components (except for moss, which is used for mulching), are crushed to the size of a pumpkin seed, mixed, and used for planting flowers. Resin extracts disinfect this soil mixture, so caring for the orchid is much easier, since the roots do not rot. This composition is most often used for orchids - epiphytes.

"Wood-foam"

This mixture is used mainly for planting phalaenopsis, cattleya and dendrobium. Its composition includes spruce bark (half the total mass of the mixture), 20% foam, 15 - expanded clay, and 10 -, which is the best fertilizer for these types of orchids. Expanded clay can be replaced with small pebbles, because it has no nutritional properties, and is used in the mixture only to ensure the stability of the plant and its more dense anchorage in the soil.

"Dry mixture for orchids"

This mixture is intended for flowers that love dry soils, and its use makes caring for an orchid at home much easier. The dry mixture contains peat, natural cork and coconut fiber in equal parts.

"Wet mixture for orchids"

Miltonia, Vanda, Lycasta - these orchids prefer constantly moist soils. It is for them that a soil mixture has been developed, which makes caring for an orchid at home easier, since it is easy to maintain during wet constantly. Half of the composition of this substrate is made up of pine bark, which retains moisture well, the second half consists of equal parts of cork, polystyrene foam and peat.

Caring for a blooming orchid

Most orchids are purchased by their owners already in bloom. This allows you to determine the quality of the flower and its compliance with the variety stated in the description.

So that the orchid pleases the owner with its beauty for as long as possible, There are many ways to prolong its flowering:

The main rule when feeding orchids is that it is better to underfeed than to overfeed. Therefore, universal complex fertilizers are always diluted 3-4 times.

In order not to harm the plant, never feed the orchid during flowering; this significantly shortens this period and subsequently negatively affects the well-being of the capricious flower. Another taboo is that you cannot fertilize an orchid you have just purchased in a store, or feed sick or newly transplanted plants. After all, fertilizer is not a medicine, but a growth stimulant; it is intended only for healthy orchids.

Orchid care after flowering

One of the main problems facing flower growers is How to properly organize a dormant period for an orchid so that after some time it blooms again?

The procedure for care after flowering depends on the condition in which the peduncle is preserved. If it has not dried out, then it cannot be removed, since many orchids form new flowers on a living shoot. If the arrow begins to dry out, then it should be cut off after the orchid has bloomed, leaving several live buds at the base on the peduncle. This procedure will help the plant accumulate strength for future flowering, which will occur in 3-6 months. The cut area must be disinfected by sprinkling with crushed charcoal powder.

After flowering, many orchids enter a period of rest. At this time, you can reduce the daylight hours for the plant and reduce the ambient temperature. This is done so that the orchid’s energy is spent on increasing the leaf mass, and so that the weakened plant does not enter the flowering period ahead of schedule.

Watering plants that have entered a dormant period must be significantly reduced. Most orchids at this time need to be watered no more than 1-2 times a month. Some species are placed in a cool room during rest.

Blettila hyacinth, Brassia, Lelia, Massdelvalia - these flowers need to be changed temperature regime. Other orchids are less demanding when it comes to changing periods of activity, so they can be left on the usual windowsill, removing additional sources warmth and light, and reducing watering.

How to make an orchid bloom again?

Orchids are not plants that bloom continuously. Despite all efforts to extend the flowering period, sooner or later it ends, and only leaves with a lonely peduncle sticking out remain in the pot. This is the natural state of a tropical beauty, she is resting. But, if you wish, you can make it bloom again, much earlier than expected. There are several ways:

The end of an orchid's bloom is not always an irreversible process. Sometimes you can force a plant to bloom again, much earlier than expected. But This opportunity should not be abused, since an orchid exhausted by endless flowering may simply die.

Orchid propagation

This plant can be propagated in several ways:

  1. Root shoots. The plant is taken out of the substrate, the roots are cleaned, and they are cut, focusing on the separators between the bulbs. Open sections are disinfected so that they do not rot by sprinkling with wood or activated carbon, crushed into powder. The resulting plants should be planted in separate small containers.
  2. By cuttings. An orchid can also be propagated by apical shoots. For this method, varieties with pronounced internodes located at a considerable distance from each other are best suited. Using a knife, which is first well calcined over the fire (it is necessary to cool, calcination is necessary for disinfection), cut off the stalk, focusing on the middle of the segment between the nodes. The sections are disinfected with charcoal powder. After this, you can plant the cuttings in separate pots. This propagation method is suitable for orchids that grow quickly.
  3. By shoots. This method is used when the orchid begins to grow in width and forms side shoots. If the area of ​​the pot allows, they are pinned to the ground next to the mother plant using soft plastic (construction clamps are suitable), and this place is regularly sprayed over a long period of time, achieving the formation of additional roots. After they appear, the orchid shoot should be separated and transplanted into a separate pot, having previously sanitized the sections with charcoal powder.

Insects - pests of home orchids

An orchid is a plant that, with proper care, is practically not prone to diseases, and those that do arise are treated quite quickly. This different kinds rot, to eliminate which it is necessary to remove the affected part of the plant and sprinkle the cut with coal; rust, which is fought in the same way; fungi that will not appear on the plant if a stable level of humidity is maintained in the room. But insects can cause much more harm to orchids.

The cause of many painful conditions lies in the unexpected attack of insect pests. It is unexpected because in the conditions indoors many gardeners simply do not expect such guests to appear. But in vain - after all, they get into the house in different ways. Insect pests are so small that they rise with air currents and enter the house through windows, doors, ventilation, and are brought with bouquets of wildflowers or garden flowers, on the fur of pets, on people's shoes and clothes.

General rules for handling plants when insect pests are detected:

  • A suspicious plant must be isolated until it is completely cured;
  • The window sill, glass, trays and pots of both the affected orchid and nearby plants should be washed with a soapy solution containing baking soda(1 tsp per 200 g of soap solution). This will prevent the proliferation of harmful organisms.
  • All plants that are in contact with the affected flower are also treated with a soap solution, followed by rinsing (without getting soap suds into the soil) but without soda.

Signs of the presence of the most common types of insect pests and methods of combating them are described below.

Nematode

If your orchid suddenly stops flowering and stops growing, you should be wary. Perhaps the plant is affected by nematodes - tiny insects that settle in its leaves and feed on the sap, gradually suppressing the plant’s immunity. You can fight the nematode in the following ways:

  1. Spray with decaris solution. This drug is sold in pharmacies. Recommended dosage – 1 tablet per 1 liter.
  2. Apply special means– “Aldicarb”, “Fenamiphos”, “Oxamil” and the like, following the instructions for use.

Aphid

This pest usually appears on plants in summer, penetrating through open windows. It affects weakened plants that lack iron. Therefore, when using fertilizers for orchids, do not forget to use iron-containing preparations. If a defeat does occur, then the following measures are taken:

Soft-bodied mites

Signs of plant damage by these insects are rapid yellowing and drying of healthy leaves. The best remedy To combat mites, acoricidal preparations are used, which quickly destroy insects without harming the plant. This pest must be combated immediately after its detection; it very quickly destroys a delicate orchid. First, you should lower the humidity level in the room, mites do not like this, and then inspect the plant and cut out the affected areas, treat the cut areas with crushed activated carbon.

The drug “Fitoverm” will help drive away ticks, which is diluted in accordance with the instructions, and carefully spray the leaves with the resulting composition from a spray bottle, focusing Special attention processing of deciduous forks. If a fair amount of solution accumulates in them, then after an hour the excess must be carefully blotted with a soft cotton cloth to prevent the development of stem rot.

Spider mites

When orchid leaves turn yellow prematurely, this does not always indicate that the plant is being damaged by soft-bodied mites. The same signs of wilting appear in a flower that is undermined spider mites. You can notice the difference if you look at inner part leaf - a silvery web appears on it, which in more advanced cases passes to the leafy forks of the trunk.

Methods to combat spider mites:

Oribati mites

These insects most often “arrive” along with a plant purchased in a store. They actively live and reproduce in greenhouses where orchids are bred. They can be recognized by the typical deformations of the leaves in which oribati mites settle. The top leaf becomes pimply, covered with convex tubercles, the spaces between which, on the contrary, become thinner. Visually, there is a feeling that the leaf has been burned by the sun.

Orchid mites live in the substrate, therefore, first of all, it is necessary to replant the orchid. When transplanting, the roots are cleaned as much as possible from the substrate, the so-called “bark” is removed from them, and they are soaked for 30-40 minutes in warm water. During the soaking process, the plant must be moved, as if mixing the water with it, which it is advisable to change a couple of times during the procedure. This helps shake off the mites from the roots, and they gradually float to the surface of the water. After all visible insects have been collected, root system It is advisable to dry it slightly and transplant the orchid into a fresh substrate.

Video: the basics of proper orchid care

In order for a plant to develop well and bloom long and profusely, it must not only be replanted and watered on time, but also fed.

The same applies to phalaenopsis, cymbidium and their fellows: to feed them, you should know how and when to fertilize orchids for their well-being. Let us consider in detail what nutrients such plants need, at what time of year and how they need to be fertilized.

I have already talked about the benefits of fertilizers and how they affect the condition of orchids, detailed material look in the article:

Before applying fertilizers, be sure to take into account the seasonality, condition and composition of the substrate. For those who have recently been dealing with these flowers, I will dwell in more detail on these nuances in caring for orchids.

  • In the old substrate, a constant microclimate has been formed with various fungi and microorganisms, which also process minerals. If you frequently fertilize a plant with such soil, minerals will accumulate and become salty, causing the death of the roots. Therefore, the older the substrate, the less often you need to feed orchids.
  • If the orchids were recently transplanted into self-prepared soil, treated high temperature or boiling water, it is necessary to feed them with nitrogen more often.
  • If there is a lot of polystyrene foam or other synthetics in the soil, the plants are fertilized more often; if there is more natural materials, then less often (with a 20% beech leaf content, only phosphorus fertilizing is sufficient).
  • How to feed a plant in winter, when there is not enough bright light and warmth? In winter and summer, we fertilize orchids once a month (we may not feed them at all in winter). In such conditions, it grows slowly and does not consume nutrients in large quantities.
  • With the onset of spring, the plant “comes to life” and speeds up its metabolism. The absorption of nutrients occurs much faster, and soon the plant begins to need feeding. Apply foliage and bloom orchid fertilizer twice a month in the spring. In summer and autumn, the orchid's development slows down again, and it should be fertilized again once a month.

Important: the older the substrate, the more nutrients it contains. The more often you fertilize a plant with such soil, the higher the likelihood of it becoming salinized, which is dangerous for the roots.

  • Nitrogen deficiency is no less dangerous in recently (but not just) transplanted plants, especially if the substrate was prepared independently from heat-treated bark. In such soil there is practically no microflora necessary for the absorption of nutrients. For it to appear, a large amount of nitrogen is required. If it is not enough, regular feeding is needed.

Root condition and feeding

When you replant orchids, the replanting does not come without damaging the roots: they may break or be scratched.

Applying fertilizers soon after replacing the soil is not recommended: this will lead to salting of the soil, since the roots are busy restoring and are unable to immediately begin absorbing minerals and vitamins.

Before feeding, perform the following steps:

  1. We buy specialized orchid fertilizer and study the dosage on the package: if you exceed the dose, the roots are burned. If you were unable to buy orchid fertilizer, purchase an analogue for others indoor plants, and dilute with a double portion of water so as not to spoil the roots.
  2. We dilute the fertilizer with distilled water. First of all, fertilizers for orchids should be diluted with water according to the instructions. It is preferable to use distilled, filtered or settled water. Before you start diluting the nutrient composition, shake the bottle of fertilizer thoroughly so that the salts that have settled to the bottom rise and are evenly distributed in the container.
    If this is not done, the salts will remain at the bottom and, when the product comes to an end, their concentration will increase greatly, which will lead to burns of the root system.
  3. Fertilize the orchid using the root method, placing the pot in a container with diluted fertilizer for half an hour, after thoroughly watering the plant (so as not to burn the roots).

If foliar feeding is required (we use it for weak orchids with damaged roots or young ones when growing roots), dilute 2 ml of specialized orchid fertilizer in a liter of water and spray the pseudobulbs and leaves of the plant.

Do not use flowering or foliar orchid fertilizer in tablet or stick form. Since the soil for orchids is not dense, such fertilizing does not sufficiently enrich it with minerals.

Feeding methods

Root feeding

After diluting the fertilizer with water, place the flower pot in the solution for 20-30 minutes, after thoroughly pouring the plant with water (this serves to prevent burning of the roots).

Foliar feeding

Orchids can be fertilized not only through the roots, but also through the leaves, when they, along with the pseudobulbs, are sprayed with a highly diluted fertilizer. In this case, 2 ml of product is usually diluted per liter of water. It is better to use this method for weakened orchids with an unhealthy root system, as well as when the roots are actively growing and their tips can be burned by salts.

When fertilizing orchids, strictly follow the instructions for using the fertilizer so that the plants do not lack minerals and long years delighted you with their blooming appearance.

The range of modern fertilizers for orchids is quite wide. For example, if you want your orchid to grow green mass and have a healthy root system, buy Biplantol Vital NT. It is diluted in a proportion of 2-3 ml per liter of water.

There are many other fertilizers that are useful and harmless to orchids:

  • Wuxal super ;
  • BioTrissol;
  • Bona Forte;
  • Chrystal;
  • Orchid Quick (for increasing green mass);
  • Orchid Quick Plus (to speed up flowering);
  • Polymaris et al.

Now you know what fertilizers for orchids are and how to use them. The main thing is to carefully study the instructions and follow the dosage of the fertilizer.

Fertilizer application is allowed only at certain times:

  • This is done in the spring, when the flower is actively growing and gaining strength before flowering.
  • It can also be done in summer, provided that the leaves are still growing and there are no buds on the plant.
  • When flowering comes, root feeding is replaced by foliar feeding.
  • In autumn, when the orchid blooms, it is allowed to fertilize only the leaves and aerial roots.
  • In winter, it does not need fertilizing, as it is at rest.

Do I need to fertilize if the plant is blooming?

The flower needs fertilizing, since a lack of nutrients can cause chlorosis. This is a disease that interferes with photosynthesis in foliage.

It turns yellow and then falls off, and the orchid itself begins to lag behind in development. To prevent this from happening, you need to apply suitable fertilizers in a timely manner. For lush flowering Phosphorus and potassium are used, and nitrogen is used for the growth and development of shoots and leaves.

There are some prohibitions for applying fertilizers:

  1. A weakened plant is prohibited from applying root fertilizers.
  2. Also, do not fertilize immediately after transplantation. The orchid must first adapt, and this process takes place within a month.
  3. A recently purchased flower in a store is not fertilized. He must get used to the new place.
  4. At the time of active flowering, fertilizing is not carried out under the root system.
  5. This procedure is not done in extreme heat and scorching sun.

What are the consequences of fertilizing a flowering plant?

Should I fertilize the blooming beauty? In this case, only root fertilizing is not done. Ignoring this rule, the plant will drop flowers, and new buds will not form. But foliar feeding continues. Often, inexperienced gardeners wonder why they can’t fertilize when an orchid is blooming? The answer is simple - the flower managed to accumulate all the nutrients it needs before the peduncle appears. During flowering, the accumulated energy of the orchid begins to be used up..

If you apply fertilizer, this will provoke your pet to refuse flowering in favor of assimilation.

How to feed?

at home

The following fertilizers are not suitable:

  1. Under no circumstances should sticks and tablets be used in soil with an orchid. Their uneven distribution in the ground will occur, and this threatens to damage the roots in places of concentration.
  2. Varied folk remedies can only harm the flower.
  3. Universal complexes - used in the rarest cases.

On the street

If an orchid grows in open ground, then it does not need fertilizer as much. But, if necessary, all the same types are acceptable as for indoor flower. For example, during the flowering period you can take Biona Flora. It is inexpensive and contains a sufficient amount of nutrients.

Step-by-step instruction

At home

Feeding at home includes:

  1. 2 feedings per month are enough.
  2. Divorced required quantity fertilizers
  3. The solution is poured into a spray bottle.
  4. The spray bottle should not spray with a stream, but spray small droplets.
  5. It must be shaken before use.
  6. The shedding is sprayed equally on both sides. Aerial roots are also sprayed a little; do not wet them too much.
  7. The solution should not get on the growing point, shoots, and flowers.
  8. Feeding is done in the morning or evening.
  9. After the orchid procedure, it is forbidden to place the orchid in direct sunlight.
  10. Foliar application of fertilizers is carried out in an exceptionally warm room at a temperature not lower than +18.
  11. The water is soft, settled, slightly warmer than the environment.

We invite you to watch a video about feeding orchids at home.

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