How to maintain ventilation in a private house. Operating principle, design and installation of a natural ventilation system. Ways to organize the right system

Ventilation systems come in a variety of designs, so choosing the right option for a private home is quite difficult. You need to understand many subtleties and nuances before making a decision.

What is it for?

Home ventilation in a cottage or country house is needed primarily for ventilation, that is, to replace exhaust air masses with fresh ones. However, this seemingly simple answer hides many subtleties and nuances. It is not always enough to pump in a certain volume of air from the outside and dump some of it outside. A very important task is to free the home atmosphere from dirt, harmful microorganisms and dust particles.

Even in cottage villages, the purity of air masses is questionable. Still, every minute factories are working somewhere, trains and planes are rushing, smoke is pouring out of power plants and from the exhaust pipes of cars. A conventional gas stove pollutes the room atmosphere with moisture additives. Plastic windows disrupt the normal process of removing dirt. Modern ventilation devices successfully solve all these problems.

Windows with mesh can prevent bumblebees and flies, mosquitoes and leaves from getting inside. But they will not protect against dust particles and plant allergens. The air passing through the mesh remains as excessively humid or dry as it is outside. It is not heated in winter and brings sweltering heat in summer. High-quality ventilation reliably cuts off all these negative factors and does not allow mold and other fungi to settle in the house.

Ventilation system design

Ventilation systems can solve such problems only if they are properly organized using a special method. Plastic air ducts are widely used for organizing mines. Thanks to universal connections, you can assemble everything yourself. Metal structures are more reliable, but assembling an air duct from them is much more difficult. This type of work is mostly done by craftsmen.

Grilles are used to distribute air; 1 house can sometimes have more than 10 grilles. They are divided into supply and exhaust format devices. But a prerequisite is that the grille (together with other components) must block the opening for air passage by a maximum of 40%. Forced ventilation systems are often equipped with diffusers and fans.

Ventilation complexes equipped with heaters are capable of heating the incoming air. The efficiency of this option is higher than using even the best heating devices to warm up the already supplied air. A very important component in many cases is the filter. They may not be used in suburban homes, but the proximity to a federal highway or railroad requires the use of an appropriate device. In this case, it should only cope with freeing the air from dust.

Regardless of the subtleties of filling, the equipment used and the natural or artificial drive of air, it is taken from below and released at the top point. Of the additional devices in the natural ventilation scheme, only a supply valve is present. Hoods for boilers, as well as for gas and electric stoves, are of the autonomous type. It is important to understand that they are not able to replace a full-fledged ventilation system. After all, air intake near the ceiling and at a considerable distance from heating devices still does not occur, and therefore the atmosphere in the room will inevitably remain clogged.

Kinds

Already at the time of construction, any building, including a private house, must be equipped with natural ventilation devices. This is a basic minimum, without which a normal indoor environment cannot be ensured. It is for such components that the calculation is usually carried out first, and the portion of air provided by natural ventilation is subtracted from the demand in order to determine the required power of mechanical devices. But the disadvantage of such a system is that it works stably only within very strict limits. It is enough to change the weather conditions, just change the direction of the wind, and the efficiency tends to zero.

Supply ventilation systems provide rational control of the quality characteristics of the air in the home. The simplest way to ensure the flow of air mass is a fan placed in the window opening. The disadvantage of this option is that it only works well during warm periods. If the temperature is very low, it will create discomfort.

The kind of external ventilation that can be seen in public and industrial buildings is excessive for a private home. And the point is not only in excessive power, but also in the large occupied area. You will need to perform the work as accurately as possible and develop the project in the smallest detail. Monoblock systems operating on inflow have become widespread. Such systems are assembled within a single building equipped with noise insulation.

Personal air supply systems only work for one room. Most of these devices are low-power and do not create much noise. The costs of purchasing them are low. There is no need to use air ducts or involve specialists. It is possible to equip such systems with recuperator units, but their effectiveness is ensured only at positive air temperatures.

The attached type of ventilation ducts should have dimensions of 10x10 or 15x15 cm. It is advisable to use ready-made pipes rather than build communications from plasterboard. This is more reliable and saves time during installation. The pipes are discharged above the roof, the lifting height is determined by the installation location. It is prohibited to use ventilation combined with a chimney; The supply and exhaust for the kitchen must be independent of each other.

Separate ventilation ducts lead to rooms that are needed to solve household problems. These are dressing rooms, laundry rooms and storage rooms. Such channels cannot be laid in load-bearing walls. It is also inadvisable to install them in external walls, where this will lead to continuous formation of condensation. The laying of ventilation routes for gas also has its own characteristics. It does not matter whether water heaters (water heaters), heating boilers or kitchen stoves are installed.

The combustion of natural gas inevitably leads to a reduction in the concentration of oxygen in the air. Additionally, this causes an increase in the concentration of carbon dioxide, the chimney becomes increasingly clogged with soot, and the air in the room quickly fills with water and dust. And all this is dangerous not only due to subjective inconveniences: it poses a threat to the health and even lives of people. Since private houses, with the exception of large cottages, do not install boilers more powerful than 30 kW, it is from this level that we should proceed. Natural supply ventilation of boiler rooms is created by marking a channel, the margin of which is about 1 cm.

The diameters of the air pipes are at least 150 mm. They should be laid in openings with a slight inclination towards the street. To cover empty areas, use foam. The part of the foam that extends beyond the contour must be cut off after hardening. It is not possible to eliminate dust clogging in this scheme; the solution to the problem is to use grilles with filters.

Another grille is mounted at the outlet of the pipe to the street to prevent small animals and debris from getting inside. The outlet must be located at least 1 m from the boiler. This requirement is intended to prevent the influence of cold air on the operation of the gas boiler. You should not rely too much on automation: yes, it can compensate for such an impact, but this will only significantly shorten the service life of the product. The natural format of boiler room ventilation, depending on external conditions, allows you to save energy.

Mixed supply and exhaust units contain filters, fans and air heaters. In boiler rooms they provide a complete microclimate. Taking into account the capabilities of modern automated boilers, such systems help reduce fuel consumption and stabilize the operation of heating equipment. Boiler rooms can use ducted or ductless air supply systems. In the first case, its flows are collected together and then discharged outside naturally or forcibly.

To move the air created by gas equipment, rectangular channels based on galvanized steel are most often used. Such systems are easy and simple to install. The kit always includes the necessary parts. There is almost always no need for auxiliary fittings. Since the size and weight of the air ducts are small, you can create them with your own hands.

Standard requirements and design rules

According to regulatory requirements, all technical solutions in buildings and structures must be focused on ensuring and maintaining a microclimate that complies with the instructions of GOST 30494. You should also be guided by the instructions contained in the sanitary rules of 2002. Even emergency ventilation and smoke protection equipment cannot create general noise greater than 110 dB, and impulse noise greater than 125 dB. Anti-corrosion coating of air ducts can be done with easily flammable paints, but their thickness cannot exceed 0.02 cm.

According to the standards in force in Russia, it is necessary to force the air into motion if the meteorological characteristics of the area do not provide the required parameters for its movement. This may also be due to the need to purify incoming air masses. Mechanical ventilation is mandatory in all areas where natural ventilation is completely impossible. Another case where you can’t do without artificial encouragement is in areas where the air temperature drops to -40 degrees or less. In such situations, it is necessary to supplement the pumping systems with heating means.

According to SNiP, air purification from dust should be carried out to the maximum permissible concentration for a specific settlement or lower. All systems should be designed so that the room temperature does not fall below 12 degrees. Ideally, it should be kept within normal limits. The lowest point of the part receiving air from the outside must be located at least 1 m above stable snow cover and 2 m above ground level. If the territory may be subject to sandstorms, the rise should be already 3 m. But the need to protect air receivers from pollen, leaves, twigs, petals and the like is determined individually, according to the technical specifications.

All points where transit air ducts are laid through walls must be sealed through partitions using non-combustible materials. It is prohibited to combine air ducts with gas pipelines, electrical wiring, communication cables and sewer systems. The approach of all these communications to pipes and their simple intersection are also prohibited. If there are several ventilation systems (usually supply and exhaust), then instruments for measuring temperatures and pressures are made common for all circuits.

According to the current GOST, it is allowed to use only those methods of fastening air distribution devices to air ducts or to permanent structures of buildings that are provided for in the technical documentation for the products.

Materials and components

The arrangement of ventilation in houses made of SIP panels has its own characteristics. In this case, since the buildings are lightweight to the limit, the simplest ventilation systems are usually used. The exception is for houses with a height of two or more floors. Even if a house made from such panels is built using ventilated facade technology, additional air flow will still be needed. The simplest option to ensure its flow without disturbing the climatic properties of the premises is to use special valves.

They are mostly installed directly into house frames. Such structures are externally invisible and do not detract from the appearance of the buildings. To connect the supply valves to the frame and ceilings, you can use plastic or asbestos-cement pipes. It is strictly unacceptable to make metal air ducts. They will significantly increase noise and weaken thermal insulation. According to professionals, asbestos-cement slabs as a basis for ventilation of a SIP house are much better than their plastic counterparts.

Mechanical ventilation systems in SIP houses can provide air cleaning and heating simultaneously with pumping. The problem is that it can be quite difficult to make such highways without the help of professionals. Only very trained and skillful people will solve such problems successfully. The key link is the hood, which provides rarefaction of air in living rooms. Since the intake of air masses is carried out forcibly, increased pressure is formed, which ensures the release (displacement) of the exhaust part of the atmosphere into the street.

In many frame buildings they try to make combined ventilation systems. They help maintain optimal air movement with little energy consumption. For a large cottage (180-200 sq. m) it is necessary to create 6, 7 or 8 ventilation ducts. If the total area of ​​the home is smaller or larger, their number also needs to be changed. The pipes form a kind of collector, which is equipped with an exhaust fan.

It is better to use not just mechanical, but fully automated fans. They will need to be connected to humidity sensors installed in each room. Then optimal temperature and humidity conditions will be ensured in any room. The use of infrared measuring instruments is not recommended because their cost is prohibitive. Only professionals calculate the fan power, because no one will be able to do it correctly without special training.

To form ventilation lines in private houses, PVC sewer pipes with a cross-section of 11 cm are often used. They are almost 3 times more profitable than galvanized counterparts, and the air moving through them makes less noise. What is important is that such structures can be installed relatively easily, and the joints will have a high degree of tightness. Such pipes can be equipped with fittings of various types, which makes it possible to make smooth and sharp turns of pipelines at any angle.

The smoothness of the inner wall virtually eliminates obstacles to the movement of air flows. This means not only minimal “loudness,” but also high ventilation efficiency. Buying such pipes will not be difficult in any city. But we must take into account that all sewer pipes are round; they take up more space than rectangular structures of similar capacity. But the concern about the accumulation of static electricity on plastic pipelines, as practice has shown, has no good reason.

As for the release of toxic substances, nothing can be said without studying a specific sample. Only after testing in a laboratory does it become clear whether a certain type of plastic is dangerous or not. All that remains for the consumer is to rely on the quality certificates provided by manufacturers and sellers. Before drawing up a wiring diagram for ventilation pipes, it is necessary to take into account the natural or forced nature of ventilation. Only then will it be possible to use the correct formulas for calculating cross-sections based on throughput levels.

Chimneys, or rather forced exhaust systems, deserve special attention. Although they do not intersect with ventilation and cannot form a single circuit, the tasks being solved are still quite close. Weak draft in a private home is bad not only because of the threat of smoke and carbon monoxide poisoning, not only because of soot and soot in the home. Even a slight weakening of it, which can be difficult to notice, results in excessive fuel consumption, a drop in the efficiency of its combustion and accelerated cooling of the rooms.

Another nuance is that unstable operation of the hood threatens a fire. If soot accumulates, it may one day ignite in such a way that even a heat-resistant type of brick cannot withstand it. By replacing the usual wooden windows with cracks with plastic ones and installing steel doors, the draft will inevitably weaken. After all, all chimney designs are also designed for this fresh air influx channel. Therefore, it will be necessary to compensate for the lost power of natural ventilation through special techniques.

To cope with the effects of wind or changes in the direction of air movement, weather vanes and weathervanes can be used. Such elements, turning in the direction of the flow, block the head of the pipe and maintain a stable mode of air movement in it. When flowing around such parts, the wind contributes to the formation of rarefied areas above the end of the chimney. The result is increased traction without consuming electricity. Most often, weather vanes are made from stainless steel; the sheet thickness should be at least 0.05 cm.

To ensure movement around its axis, weather vanes are equipped with closed support bearings. Such devices do not require additional maintenance during the entire period of operation. If the product meets standard standards, the housing does not collect condensation and soot. The only thing the owners will need to do is fight the formation of ice crusts. In addition, it is worth considering that weather vane fans operate poorly and unstably if the wind is very strong.

An alternative to them are rotary turbines. These devices also use the energy of atmospheric currents. But the twist occurs in one direction, regardless of which way the wind blows. The ball, assembled using a special system of “petals,” prevents the pipe from clogging with all kinds of dirt and prevents birds and insects from settling in. However, when there is no wind at all, this expensive product is almost useless.

The exhaust fan does not depend on the weather. It is fundamentally different from a fireplace ventilation device designed to force draft. The basis of the device is an electric motor designed to be powered by a regular home electrical network. You need to use a smoke exhaust fan if you need to create increased draft in the smoke duct for a small fireplace. High-quality designs ensure normal ventilation of the hearth even when the chimney duct is heated to 600 degrees.

How to do it yourself?

You can begin installing ventilation communications in a private house only after a diagram has been drawn up in accordance with all the rules. But the scheme itself can only be drawn up on the basis of accurate information and estimates:

required air exchange parameters;

created microclimate;

standards for the installation of ventilation equipment;

features and modes of its use.

Russian standards provide that per 1 sq. m of enclosed space it is required to supply 3 cubic meters. m of air in 60 minutes. But at the same time, we must not forget about the “human” norms - 30 cubic meters. m per tenant. All this is worth remembering when it comes time to calculate the cross-sections and internal diameters of the channels, their length and air movement speed. If the kitchen is equipped with an electric stove, 60 cubic meters should be supplied there. m of air, and if gas - another 50% more. When possible, it is worth drawing up technical specifications and entrusting the development of the project to qualified specialists.

As with other technical systems, we must strive to reduce the number of installed parts. It is important to consider points such as:

the ability to repair and configure everything yourself;

availability of backup nodes;

ease of operation;

reliability in a wide range of conditions;

harmonious fit of the ventilation complex into the interior;

cost-effectiveness during installation and use.

All longitudinal seams on air ducts and other elements must face upwards. Each fastener is tightened until it stops so that the bolts cannot be turned any further. Individual parts of communications can be placed on the mountings provided for them only after installation. When selecting and using fasteners, pay attention to the weight of the air ducts. The load from them should not go to the devices.

All fasteners must be equipped with means that inhibit the spread of vibration. Radial fans should be placed on rigid supports and secured with anchor bolts. The filter blocks must be tensioned evenly so that they do not sag. Loose installation of electric motors (in which they are poorly fitted to the fans) is prohibited. It is recommended to check whether the fan blades rotate freely.

All openings used for air passage are covered with protective grilles with a mesh size of no more than 70 mm. A mandatory requirement is also to reduce to a minimum the number of bends and turns, as well as intersections and duplicate sections. In any case, the sequence of installation work is as follows:

marking positions for using fasteners;

assembly of retaining structures;

preparation of air ducts and receipt of components;

formation of individual sections of the ventilation system;

merging them into a monolithic complex with consolidation in accordance with plans and diagrams that meet regulatory requirements.

In residential buildings, unlike industrial facilities, ventilation ducts are most often hidden from external view with the help of finishing elements. The selection of a ventilation system for a private home is determined by considerations such as:

construction materials of the building and its floors;

total area;

intensity of home use;

number of residents;

environmental and sanitary characteristics of street air;

climate regime of the area;

Rose of Wind;

characteristics of polluting factors in the home environment;

economic feasibility of using certain solutions;

ensuring comfort and a sanitary safe internal environment;

minimizing fire risks and noise;

no negative impacts on neighboring houses and plots, or on the environment.

In private homes, you can use both forced and natural systems. The second option is preferable for buildings made of brick, wood and expanded clay concrete blocks. If the home is equipped with a balcony or loggia, these rooms must be equipped with devices for micro-ventilation. But much more often, hoods are used to remove condensate. Supply and exhaust devices should be used in rooms that do not have windows.

Forced supply and exhaust ventilation is recommended for ventilating built-in garages and home boiler rooms. In a mixed system, a convector is responsible for the influx, the additional functions of which are heating, filtration and disinfection of incoming air. Ultraviolet emitters are widely used to combat harmful microorganisms.

The use of recuperators helps prevent overcooling of the serviced premises in winter.

Phased installation involves installing:

filter systems;

heater;

fan;

recuperator;

air conditioning systems.

If there is no need to place a block, it is simply skipped. But there is no need to change the general order. Air conditioning units are installed last, just before the discharge hole. Domestic ventilation ducts passing through unheated roofs must be covered with thermal insulation. When it is planned to combine inflow and outflow, care must be taken to install exhaust fans. Electrical lines are laid last, just before they are connected; They must be grounded.

When ventilation systems are divided into sections, networks for each of them are assembled separately. Pre-launch tests of all units must be carried out without fail.

It is necessary to drill inputs and outputs with a slight slope in the direction of the street. This is important for complete drainage of condensate. Hole diameter is at least 120-130 mm.

It is advisable to install wall valves in the space from the window sill to the heating radiator. You need to cut a passage in the wall, the cross-section of which ranges from 50 to 60 mm. The pipe goes into the hole. Then you need to secure the outer and inner distributors. Subsequent cleaning of the valve should be done every 6 months or even more often.

Products that activate air exhaust in a private home are installed mainly in kitchens (above stoves) and in bathrooms. The current consumption of such systems is small; it is possible to power them with electricity taken from the light bulb regulators. Mixing and mutual blocking of flows flowing from toilets and bathtubs can be prevented by using a return valve. Air can easily pass through it, but the reverse movement is impossible. Small modifications are fixed to:

• original fasteners offered by the manufacturer.

When choosing a product, you need to look not only at compliance with the project. A very important point for the quality operation of the valve is isolation from water. Experts note that silent systems consume more electricity during operation. The experience of using various versions led to the conclusion that the body made of acrylic and polyisopropylene is characterized by increased strength. Output through the wall is not the only way to ensure air flow; there is also the possibility of installing products (or preparing passages) in window blocks or separately.

Having opened the frame, cut off the outer seal from the bottom, the length of which does not exceed 50 mm. The removed part of the material is left in storage because it may suddenly need to be returned. A similar part of the internal seal is cut off at the top. The principle is extremely simple:

street air passes into the lower channel;

passing through the internal cavity of the frame, the flow is heated;

an improved portion of air from above is released into the room.

But such a measure, for all its simplicity and ease of implementation, is acceptable only in the southern regions. Wherever severe frosts may occur, the outer hole will freeze and stop working. In addition, there is no way to filter or intensively heat the air. Valves are more advanced in this regard, but they have their drawbacks:

many walls can only be broken through with special tools;

drilling will be accompanied by the release of a mass of fine dust;

assessing the quality of thermal protection of a wooden or stone wall in a drilled location is possible only in winter - when it is almost impossible to quickly eliminate the deficiencies;

heating, filtration, drying and humidification of air are possible only using electrical systems.

In a residential cottage where a heating boiler is installed, a distributed air duct system is most often used. The reason is that any heating boilers absorb a lot of air during their operation. Neither natural circulation nor valves will be able to compensate for the resulting loss. The preferred location of the inflow is at the entrance to the home or in the corridor. After all, it is these points that are guaranteed to communicate with all the others, and the air streams will need to cover the shortest possible distance.

Air ducts can be made not only of steel and plastic; In some cases, corrugated aluminum gives good results. To make the intersections of elements impenetrable, you can use both sealants (there are a lot of them) and insulating tape. Pipes are attached to the ceiling using hangers, carefully choosing their design. Mounting to walls is done using special clamps. To curb noise and vibration, it is allowed to use foam or foam rubber.

During the pre-launch test you should check:

no vibration;

ensuring design and/or standard performance;

normal operation of all installed parts and control devices;

correct air distribution in accordance with planned calculations;

completeness of smoke removal in the kitchen;

the completeness of freeing baths and toilets from moisture, bad and strong odors;

absence of defects in all fastenings and joints;

absence of short circuits and improper operation of electrical circuits;

uniform temperature adjustment during operation of heating devices.

A common misconception is that in a wooden house the walls themselves provide adequate air passage. Even for log buildings built in accordance with modern requirements, this is no longer the case. The problem is even more acute in frame housing with basic wooden elements. If this consideration is not enough, it is important to look at something else:

wood easily becomes saturated with moisture and rots;

without full pumping, the natural ability of wood to let air through will still not allow for its correct change;

natural circulation does not allow the air to warm up;

Carbon dioxide, excess heat and moisture in the air do not escape through wooden structures.

Natural ventilation in a wooden house is usually installed immediately during construction. Vertical channels are made first in basements, and then in other parts of the home. Vents are prepared in the basements, and the supply channel is mounted at the base level. Recommendation: it is advisable to install it from the north, since there the temperature difference is greatest, as is the draft it creates. If the house occupies a large area, it is necessary to form several channels at once.

The organization of ventilation in brick houses is noticeably different from the scheme just described. Hoods must be made in full compliance with fire safety requirements. All hoods are also equipped with insulating grilles; if they are also made of brick, you must create special pockets that will allow you to remove accumulated soot and dust. The air supply inside the brick building is ensured by a fan placed close to the window. But to discharge the exhaust air mass, it is placed in a channel opposite the window opening.

Channels are laid in any case according to templates. For their manufacture, boards measuring 140x2500x25 mm are used. Such parts are provided with cuts, each of which has the same diameter as the ventilation duct. If the room area is 30 sq. m or less, a recess of 14x14 cm is quite enough for it. But the rise of the channel masonry above the roof surface should be at least 7 bricks.

When working, you need to make sure that each seam is perfectly closed with mortar. Only then will the leakage of smoke, vapors, soot and soot into the serviced space be prevented. It is three times more important to provide all rooms where there is no natural circulation in a brick house with an artificial air supply. You will also have to remove it mechanically. The presence of cracks and extraneous holes or cracks in the wall, inside which cold air is supplied, is unacceptable.

Frame buildings made of timber, used only in the summer months, may not be equipped with ventilation systems. But if they are nevertheless created, the recuperator should be supplemented with a bypass. Then, on hot days, excess heating of street air can be canceled without intruding into the design of the air ducts. You can use both conventional and monoblock complexes. The second option has enhanced noise protection, and therefore is ideal for private housing.

Many frame house projects are initially supplemented with special openings, which are initially designed to carry out the required communications. You should not refuse this opportunity. Plastic pipes for air supply and exhaustion are ideal in frame buildings because they:

cheaper than steel ones;

not subject to the destructive effects of condensate;

do not turn into cold bridges.

The minimum size of horizontal channels is 10x10 cm. For horizontal mains, this figure starts from 12x12 cm. It is imperative to use window frames (along with walls) to place inflow valves. It is recommended to install ventilation ducts near air ducts serving gas boilers. If the house is equipped with a conventional stove, the discharge channel is as close as possible to this device.

The hood in a one-story house is often enhanced by adding a household fan. This approach is quite convenient and allows you to prevent the spread of bad odors throughout the house. But ensuring normal operation of the system is impossible without leaving gaps separating the floor from the doors. Central air conditioning is often an added upgrade. However, its use is difficult due to the fact that it will be necessary to stretch very thick pipes.

They take up a lot of space and are not always practical or comfortable in appearance. The cost of such a device is not affordable for all people. But regardless of the season, it will provide the same level of heating in any room. In a two-story residential building, the problems are somewhat different. Here, supporting normal air circulation in sanitary facilities and kitchens occupying different tiers comes to the fore.

Please note: conventional technical solutions used in two-story buildings often create increased noise. We must immediately prepare for this and actively dampen extraneous sounds. At the same time, it is impossible to reduce the ventilation power of problem areas - the air in them should be changed 10 times in 60 minutes. Professionals consider the best solution to the problem to be the use of a natural supply and exhaust configuration and a recuperator.

The main ventilation unit in a house with both a full second floor and an attic must pump at least 400 cubic meters per hour. m of air.

But the larger the ventilated area, the stronger the installation must be. It is recommended to use decentralized type recuperators. Such devices are installed in separate rooms, eliminating the need for air duct systems. Positive results are reflected even in adjacent rooms.

Correct air movement is ensured by placing the receiving and output openings on opposite walls. But their area must be strictly identical, only then the passage of air flows will be normal. Recommendation: it is better to replace the upper grille with a pipe rising above the roof. In this case, the overall efficiency will only increase further. It is advisable to equip the sewage system with a separate ventilation system.

Fan pipes are made of the same materials as the waste discharge riser. To carry them out, the channel provided by the design of the house is used. Important: if the architects did not initially concern themselves with this point, a horizontal outlet into the wall should be used. Since the drain in a private house is small, the passage of odors from the septic tank is also very limited. The inner sides are insulated using roofing felt or bitumen, and the outer sides are lined with 350 mm of clay or a little more.

There are also subtleties when arranging ventilation in houses made of aerated concrete. Often, central channels are made from reliable grades of galvanized steel. Insulating the passages helps prevent the occurrence of condensation. Alternatives to such measures include laying a brick air route or lining with a carefully designed plastic seal. Ventilation of aerated concrete premises is carried out at least 5 times within an hour.

Air ducts can be made from galvanized material, asbestos cement, or plastic with the appropriate characteristics. It is necessary to lay channels in all rooms without exception. The lines used to remove exhaust air merge together in the attic or at ceiling level. In this case, high-quality insulation of their roof outlets is extremely important. For forced ventilation of aerated concrete buildings, pipes with a cross-section of 130 mm are used; natural channels are made from 150 mm pipes.

Experienced builders believe that laying channels inside walls is impractical. In this case, you may encounter the appearance of condensation and a decrease in the thermal characteristics of the home. In aerated concrete houses, special shafts or partitions are used to place drainage and underwater channels, separating the internal walls. The best solution is to line it with a plastic part and cut out holes of the required size.

Arranging air circulation in built-in rooms

But simply supplying portions of fresh air from the outside is not enough - both in a wooden house and in a structure made of aerated concrete this is true to the same extent. After all, if freshness touches only the immediate conclusion and does not go further, all meaning will be lost. Ventilation must also ensure the circulation of air masses. For a cold attic in the classical scheme, an adjustable system is required, in which the rafters and sheathing are not closed. If this approach is not satisfactory, you need to use cladding with gaps through which gas will move freely and unrestrictedly.

Ondulin and slate should be laid without the use of films that hinder the movement of air or water vapor. They will also pass through metal tiles well, but you may encounter condensation. Channels for air access on a gable roof are made in the gables. For tight junctions and lining, as well as for the manufacture of pediments made of stone, you will have to prepare holes in the walls. The total area of ​​ventilation ducts on any floor, including the attic, must be at least 0.2% of the total area.

To save money, they install standard grilles (one with adjustment, and the other with the holes facing down). It is imperative to cover the grilles with mosquito nets to ensure that insects do not get inside. This is not the approach required for hip roof ventilation. There, the air input is prepared at the bottom (in the filing), and for its output a hole is prepared at the very ridge. When using a flexible roof, we recommend a turtle-type valve or a ridge with a ventilation function.

There is a fairly widespread opinion that attic ventilation leads to loss of warm air. In reality, such cases occur only through the fault of unprofessional builders or designers. They start such a myth in order to justify their own mistakes and shortcomings in their work. Ventilating systems must be of increased strength, because otherwise they will not withstand the resulting loads. It is recommended to bring the holes as close to the ridge as possible.

It is allowed to install continuous soffits under the eaves. But if such products are installed, they must be equipped with a thin mesh (plastic or aluminum to prevent corrosion). Supply components must be installed in the cleanest place possible. The distance from the suction equipment to the exhaust fan should be at least 8 m. Installing a recuperator is very useful.

When the design of a private house provides for the organization of a ground floor (basement), it is necessary to consider equipping its walls with openings for natural air exchange. This takes into account:

composition and mechanical structure of the soil;

relief of the territory;

prevailing wind directions;

depth of foundation and its type;

mode of use;

groundwater height.

According to professionals, 1 hole should be per 2-3 m of wall. Several more of them are made when construction is carried out in a lowland. If there is a clear lack of ventilation, an additional supply and exhaust system is used. Floor ventilation is very important, sometimes even more important than basement ventilation. If it is not provided, even the strongest and most beautiful boards will quickly be destroyed by mold and other fungi.

Air is blown through the underground space through holes made in the foundation. Pipes working for inflow are laid there. They try to bring them as close as possible to the hood; if this is not possible, simultaneously increase the diameter of the inlet hole. If during the first months of using the home the ventilation proves to be insufficiently effective, additional holes have to be punched. But it is much easier and better to do everything properly when pouring a concrete base.

There is no doubt about the need for ventilation in the house. The appearance of mold on walls and corners, increased humidity in the room (and this means additional stuffiness in summer and cold in winter) - all this is a consequence of stagnant air, saturated with human vapors. Over time, the fungus Discula brunneotingens settles on the walls, and a person has to breathe in its spores, forming colonies in wooden floors, frames and doors. The result is decreased immunity, allergic diseases and bronchial asthma, decreased psychological tone and chronic fatigue syndrome. But there is a solution to the problem, and more than one.

The principle of operation and the device of natural ventilation in a private house

Ventilation is a set of measures and devices that ensure the maintenance of continuous air exchange in residential and office premises. The following types of ventilation are distinguished:

1. Artificial and natural. The first assumes the presence of special devices, the second - their absence
2. Exhaust and supply. Separation occurs depending on the direction of movement of the air mass. Exhaust involves removing air, while supply involves pumping air into the premises.
3. General and local. This characteristic describes the ventilation coverage area.
4. Ductless and ducted. Classification occurs according to the presence (or absence) of air ducts.
5. Constant and periodic. Constant ventilation operates automatically, non-stop. Periodic occurs from time to time, it includes the opening of doors, windows and vents.

In addition to natural ventilation, you can arrange artificial (mechanical) or combine these two types into a combined version

In houses with many rooms for various purposes, as a rule, combined options for organizing ventilation are used. When considering each type separately, both advantages and disadvantages are revealed. In order to choose the best option, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with all possible types of ventilation.
The simplest and oldest way to ventilate rooms is natural ventilation.

Not only people, but also bears know about ventilation - when plunging into winter hibernation, they leave a small hole at the top of the den for the flow of fresh air.

The operating principle of natural ventilation is based on the known laws of aerodynamics.

Two physical parameters - temperature and pressure - control the flow of air masses from one place to another.

1. Air moves from an area of ​​high pressure to an area of ​​low pressure.
2. Warm air always tends upward, cold air always tends downward.
3. The greater the pressure or temperature difference, the faster the air moves.

Knowledge of these simple patterns allows you to control ventilation in a house or apartment. If air masses move under the influence of natural factors, such ventilation is considered spontaneous. If the movement is caused by special holes made in the walls, then such air exchange is called organized. Organized natural ventilation is also divided into:

• gravitational;
• longline;
• aeration.

For most houses and apartments, natural ventilation is sufficient. Of course, provided that it is organized correctly and competently. Approximate and accurate calculations allow you to optimally use ventilation ducts, save time and materials, and choose the right places to install air passages and vents.

Air flows in a scheme with natural ventilation enter through special openings (2), pass through the rooms and are removed through the ventilation pipe (1) into the main ventilation shaft (3)

Calculation of ventilation and ventilation duct cross-section (taking into account the volume of the room)

Since supplying people with air in residential and industrial premises is a vital function, ventilation calculations are made in accordance with regulatory documents. These include:

• SNB 4.02.01–03 - sanitary safety standards from the Ministry of Health;
• SP 60.13330.2012 - a set of rules arising from the current Federal laws and State Standards;
• SNiP 41–01–2003 - building codes and regulations from the Ministry of Construction.

You can find out more about them on the official departmental websites.

Only an experienced specialist can accurately calculate all ventilation parameters. There are a large number of formulas and calculation tables that take into account various nuances of the movement of air masses, such as:

• total area of ​​the room;
• the purpose of the premises as a whole and its individual components;
• height of premises;
• presence and number of exhaust ducts;
• height of ventilation ducts;
• functional purpose of ventilation.

Table: air flow in air ducts for designing ventilation systems

Duct parameters			Air flow (m³/h) at air speed:
Diameter round air duct	Dimensions rectangular air duct	Square sections air duct	2 m/s	3 m/s	4 m/s	5 m/s	6 m/s
	80×90 mm	72 cm²	52	78	104	130	156
Ø 100 mm	63×125 mm	79 cm²	57	85	113	142	170
	63×140 mm	88 cm²	63	95	127	159	190
Ø 110 mm	90×100 mm	90 cm²	65	97	130	162	194
	80×140 mm	112 cm²	81	121	161	202	242
Ø 125 mm	100×125 mm	125 cm²	90	135	180	225	270
	100×140 mm	140 cm²	101	151	202	252	302
Ø 140 mm	125×125 mm	156 cm²	112	169	225	281	337
	90×200 mm	180 cm²	130	194	259	324	389
Ø 160 mm	100×200 mm	200 cm²	144	216	288	360	432
	90×250 mm	225 cm²	162	243	324	405	486
Ø 180 mm	160×160 mm	256 cm²	184	276	369	461	553
	90×315 mm	283 cm²	204	306	408	510	612
Ø 200 mm	100×315 mm	315 cm²	227	340	454	567	680
	100×355 mm	355 cm²	256	383	511	639	767
Ø 225 mm	160×250 mm	400 cm²	288	432	576	720	864
	125×355 mm	443 cm²	319	479	639	799	958
Ø 250 mm	125×400 mm	500 cm²	360	540	720	900	1080
	200×315 mm	630 cm²	454	680	907	1134	1361
Ø 300 mm	200×355 mm	710 cm²	511	767	1022	1278	1533
	160×450 mm	720 cm²	518	778	1037	1296	1555
Ø 315 mm	250×315 mm	787 cm²	567	850	1134	1417	1701
	250×355 mm	887 cm²	639	958	1278	1597	1917
Ø 350 mm	200×500 mm	1000 cm²	720	1080	1440	1800	2160
	250×450 mm	1125 cm²	810	1215	1620	2025	2430
Ø 400 mm	250×500 mm	1250 cm²	900	1350	1800	2250	2700

When equipping housing with forced ventilation and using special equipment, the power indicators of the equipment are added to the list of calculated indicators - power, speed and volume of injected (or exhaust) air.

The ventilation system design is carried out on the basis of a floor plan, which displays all routes and indicates the dimensions and purpose of functional elements

If ventilation planning is carried out at the design stage of a house, separate drawings are drawn up with the calculation of all indicators and checking their compliance with established standards. The project is certified by competent organizations and included in the general action plan for the construction of housing.

An approximate calculation of ventilation parameters can be carried out independently. To do this you need to know the following:

1. For every square meter of living space there should be 3 m 3 of air for one hour.
2. Each individual room (separated from the rest by a door) has its own specifics:
   • a kitchen with a gas stove or hot water heater must be provided with supply air in a volume of 70 m 3 /h;
   • kitchen with electric stove - 50 m 3 /h;
   • the toilet “consumes” 30 m 3 of air per hour;
   • bathroom - 50 m 3 /h;
   • hallway, wardrobe, pantry - 15 m 3 per hour;
   • living rooms - no less than 30 m 3 / h.

Sanitary standards provide for the calculation of the ventilation system taking into account the number of people constantly present in the house. This small addition can have a significant impact on the overall ventilation picture.

The calculation is carried out not only by the volume of air, but also by the number of people in the building

Based on these data, approximate parameters of the air ducts are calculated. It is taken into account that the average speed of air flow from the channel is 1.0–2.5 m/sec. The diameter of the ventilation duct is selected taking into account the total volume of air in the home. As practice shows, for a one-story building with natural ventilation, the air pipe, depending on the volume of the internal space, should have the following dimensions:

• with a volume of 200 m 3 - a diameter of at least 18 cm;
• for a room of 400 m 3 - 25 cm;
• if the interior of the house occupies 600 m3 or more - 32 cm.

These values ​​can be used when calculating an air duct having a square or rectangular cross-section using the formula S = πR 2, where S is the cross-sectional area of ​​​​the circle (expressed in m 2), π is the number “pi” equal to 3.14, and R is radius of the circle. Having found the value of the area of ​​the circle, you can select the size of the rectangular ventilation duct. At the same time, it needs to be increased by 20–25%, since the throughput of round pipes is always higher than that of rectangular ones. The accepted ratio of the short side of the rectangle to the long side is 1:3.

If you use rectangular ducts instead of round ones, their cross-section needs to be increased by 20–25%

The use of forced ventilation - installing a blower fan - reduces the required pipe sizes. This occurs due to an increase in the speed of air movement in the channel. Thus, for rooms with a volume of 200, 400 and 600 m3, channels with a diameter of 11, 18 and 23 cm can be used, respectively.

Video: DIY basement ventilation

Pros and cons of natural ventilation

The main advantage of natural ventilation is that its installation does not require large financial costs.

Once installed, the air exhaust system does not require frequent maintenance.

She works as much as the house costs. The design of this type of ventilation is simple and rarely leads to any complications or accidents. There are no electrical devices inside the system that increase background noise. Air movement occurs naturally, without mechanical forcing. The advantages include good compatibility of natural ventilation with other ventilation methods. Most often, it is the combination of natural and forced ventilation systems that gives optimal results.

Disadvantages of a natural ventilation system:

1. There is no way to regulate the air flow rate. This can cause moisture and dampness to stagnate inside, leading to mold and mildew.
2. Dust and insects easily penetrate inside through the supply channels. This reduces comfort and forces more frequent cleaning of the room. This can be partially compensated for by installing mosquito nets, but it should be taken into account that this also reduces the flow of clean air.
3. Heat losses are high in the cold season. Some experts say the figure could be as high as 40%.
4. Dependence on weather conditions. The higher the air temperature outside the house, the less effective the ventilation is.

Interestingly, in hot Mediterranean countries such as Spain, Italy or Portugal, ventilation in residential buildings is provided by so-called patios - courtyards shaped like a vertical well. The sun practically does not penetrate into the patio, and all the windows and balconies face this direction.

Video: natural ventilation at home

Increasing the efficiency of natural ventilation

The efficiency of natural ventilation can be significantly increased by installing supply valves on windows. Their cost is low, and installation is simple and can be done independently. Most often, such devices are used for plastic windows. The fact is that the double-glazed window is connected to the frame quite tightly, and this sometimes turns into a negative side - moisture accumulates in the room, and mold may appear. To compensate for this phenomenon, supply valves were developed, with the help of which it became possible to regulate the degree of ventilation through the window. The device is installed in the upper part of the frame. Due to its small size, installing the valve does not in any way affect the reduction of light flow through the window.

Mortise supply valves help increase the efficiency of the ventilation system for plastic windows

The supply valve is part of the natural ventilation that supplies fresh air inside the room. The operating principle of the device is based on the hygroscopic properties of certain materials (special nylon tapes), which change their linear dimensions under the influence of moisture. The valve changes the air supply automatically (but some models also have manual control). This happens due to the narrowing or expansion of the air duct.

Types of supply valves

There are metal and plastic devices. Metal valves are reliable in operation, but they are more expensive and heavier.

There is a filter element inside the valve that needs to be changed every six months

These devices are usually divided into two categories:

When using mechanical devices in winter, you should remember that you cannot close the valve completely - it may freeze. And if you try to open it with physical force, it will break.

Installation of the supply valve

As noted above, installation of the device does not require special skills or tools. Each product comes with detailed instructions, following which you can install the device yourself.

For this you need:

• construction knife;
• screwdriver;
• roulette.

The installation kit includes:

• supply valve;
• fasteners;
• seal.
  

Installation on a window is carried out in several stages:

How to make ventilation with your own hands

Each house is a separate story with its own characteristics and architectural nuances. If the house has already been built, then it will have ventilation that will occur naturally. The situation can be corrected only with the help of coercive measures - mechanical or combined. Let's pay attention to the main requirements that the ventilation system must meet:

1. Properly functioning ventilation should not reduce the room temperature during the cold season.
2. There should be no persistent drafts in the house.
3. “Stale” air from kitchens, baths and toilets must be quickly removed from the premises and replaced with fresh air.
4. Circulation should cover all rooms without exception - closets, basements, corridors, etc.
5. The system must provide a constant supply of fresh air and removal of stale air.

The surest solution to all issues related to ventilation is to install a circulation system at the stage of planning and building a house. Depending on the size of the living area, the location of office premises and the number of people living in the house, one or two natural ventilation channels are designed. They are vertical shafts that rest on the foundation of the house and extend above the roof. This is realized using various construction technologies.

The dimensions of the ventilation riser in apartment buildings are calculated according to standard methods

One such solution can be the installation of ready-made ventilation blocks in a load-bearing wall. Another option is an independent ventilation duct made of brick. Large-diameter metal pipes are used indoors to create air flows. For aesthetic reasons, they are hidden under suspended ceilings or inside walls. Decorative plastic grilles are installed at the ends.

The ends of the air intakes are decorated with decorative plastic grilles

The same grilles are mounted at the bottom of the door leaf if the room is deaf, has no windows and is inaccessible for ventilation. In houses that are heated by stoves, the chimney pipe can play the role of a ventilation shaft.

Door grilles are installed in rooms with insufficient ventilation

Advice from experienced professionals on organizing ventilation in the house

Design of a ventilation device before construction begins

These tips will help those who plan to install ventilation from scratch.

1. The optimal location for the ventilation shaft is the central part of the building. During the cold season, the temperature difference inside the room will always be higher, which will lead to increased air draft.
2. The installation of a ventilation riser is best tied to a load-bearing wall - it will always be warmer there than in other places, which will create additional conditions for the movement of air masses.

   

   It is better to install ventilation ducts along the load-bearing walls of the building

3. When choosing air ducts, you need to take into account your specific situation. If there is enough space, you can install round air ducts. They work great to create intense traction. If installation takes place in cramped conditions, rectangular channels are better suited - they take up less space and are more compact to install.

   

   A variety of air ducts allows you to solve any problem in the installation of ventilation systems

4. When choosing round channels, you should know that rigid pipes work more efficiently - air moves through them without encountering resistance. Corrugated pipes can create noise, but they are much easier to install. Experts advise using rigid pipes whenever possible, resorting to corrugated ones only in cases of extreme necessity.

   

   Corrugated metal ducts are less efficient than rigid round ducts, so they are used only when necessary

5. Exhaust air ducts of the same diameter must be used. Contractions and expansions negatively affect the speed of air movement. If deviations are unavoidable, they should be made by smooth pipe bends.

   

   The narrowing of the air duct can only be done as smoothly as possible

6. The wider and higher the riser of the main shaft, the better the ventilation will work.

   

   The installation height of the ventilation duct on the roof depends on its distance from the highest point of the roof

7. All pipe connections in the system must be made even and smooth. Unevenness and roughness inside the pipe create noticeable resistance to the passage of air.
8. The system should have as few turns as possible in the horizontal and vertical planes. Any turn reduces air speed by 10–12%.

Tips for those who are upgrading existing ventilation

If the house was built a long time ago, but for some reason the ventilation no longer meets the needs of the residents, use little tricks that will improve the system.

In wooden houses, it is very important to ventilate the underground space, which is in direct contact with the ground.

To do this, vents are installed along the entire perimeter of the external walls. But another good solution is to bring the air intake into the underground from the ash pan of the stove. In this case, during the heating of the furnace, air will be taken from the underground space. This achieves a solution to two important problems at once - ventilation of the underground and preservation of heat in living quarters (in normal furnace mode, combustion air comes from the living area).

Without food, a person can survive for a month and a half. Without water - a week. Only trained yogis can live without air for more than 15 minutes. Taking care of clean air is a key condition for a healthy and fulfilling human life.

Most new materials and finished structures introduced into the construction and finishing industry almost completely eliminate the free movement of air. The tightness they provided, along with the advantages, brought a significant disadvantage - a violation of ventilation processes.

They simply need to be restored, because, you see, without a regular supply of fresh air to the room it is impossible to live in it!

We know how to solve such a difficult problem: exhaust ventilation through the wall to the street will form the normal movement of air masses. A small wall device will ensure exhaust flow removal and excellent air exchange.

The article we propose will introduce you to the intricacies of choosing a valve for organizing exhaust ventilation, and the rules for its installation and operation. The information presented for consideration is confirmed by photographic materials, diagrams and video instructions.

Natural ventilation of residential premises is based on the presence of micro-slits, characteristic of wooden window structures. Through such small openings, air regularly entered from the outside and was removed from the house through ventilation ducts installed in the building structures.

Thus, there was a constant change of air masses in the apartment, promoting a normal level of humidity, removing unpleasant odors, etc.

Regular renewal of the air mass, which occurs naturally through the loose fit of window sashes and door panels, as well as through ventilation, creates an optimal microclimate for life, removes excess moisture, carbon dioxide and other harmful toxic substances

Improper air exchange in the house is an almost inevitable problem when taking measures to reduce heat loss. When installing new windows and doors, trying to minimize heat loss, few people think about ventilating their homes.

But soon problems manifest themselves in the form of a stuffy atmosphere, mold growth in the bathroom and other similar phenomena. Soon, the abnormal microclimate begins to negatively affect the health of those who live in such a house.

Informed choice of the appropriate option

Most often, wall ventilation exhaust valves are made of metal or durable plastic. Plastic products are not suitable for conditions of high temperature and humidity, for example, for a bath, but they have proven themselves excellent in less difficult situations.

When selecting a valve, you should take into account its cross-section: rectangular or round.

The most important indicator is the air flow speed for which the device is designed. The most common are models designed for a flow of 4-6 m/s.

To organize forced exhaust ventilation in an apartment or house, you can use a design consisting of a fan and a check valve

If the valve is selected for a natural ventilation system, it is very important that the damper damper elements respond sensitively to even small air flows. But for systems with low draft, the presence of an exhaust fan is mandatory, so such sensitivity is not needed.

But here it is important to choose a fan that is suitable in power depending on the volume of the room for which the device is selected. So, for a kitchen, the fan power is calculated using a multiplying factor of ten, and for a bathroom this figure can be seven units.

In multi-storey buildings, the exhaust ventilation pipe must be installed one meter above the roof so that unpleasant odors do not penetrate from the lower floors to the upper ones.

Subtleties of constructing exhaust ventilation in the wall

In private houses and even in multi-storey buildings, in many cases it is more convenient to make a ventilation outlet directly through the wall. For this purpose, models of exhaust valves with a fan are used, which is inserted into the mounting coupling intended for their location.

You can also use overhead fan models that are mounted on the inside of the wall.

To install an exhaust ventilation valve in a wall, you first need to make a marking and drill a hole of the required size in it.

To install such a simple design, you will need to make a fairly large hole for installing ventilation in the outer wall of the house. But first you need to choose the right device.

Manually controlled models have an affordable price, but they are extremely inconvenient to use, since you have to constantly remember to turn the exhaust valve on or off.

The exhaust fan is installed on the inside of the hole made in the wall, and the check valve and protective grille are installed on the outside.

To automate the process, you can use a timer. You will need to select a time schedule; in accordance with these settings, the valve will turn on and off at the specified time. It may be more effective to use a sensor that responds to the level of humidity in the room.

In this case, the device will start working when the air in the room becomes too humid, and the fan will stop when the humidity drops. When choosing automatic control devices, you should make sure that when the power is turned off, the previously set settings are retained.

To ensure good air exchange in the room, it is necessary to use a sufficiently powerful fan. A unit that is weak in this regard simply cannot cope with the movement of a large volume of air masses, and as a result, ventilation will not be effective enough.

The choice of location for installing a wall ventilation valve is based on the requirements specified in the device manufacturer’s instructions

When making calculations, a simple formula is usually used:

M=O*B

• M – required fan power;
• О – volume of the room in which the device will be installed;
• B – increasing air exchange coefficient.

The volume of a room, as you know from a school mathematics course, can be calculated as the product of the area and height of the room. The air exchange coefficient is determined depending on the purpose of the room.

This indicator should be:

• for a separate toilet – 8;
• for the kitchen – 15;
• for a bathroom or combined toilet – 20.

All that remains is to determine the volume of the room and multiply it by the appropriate coefficient to obtain an indicator that will help you choose a valve with a sufficiently powerful fan. You should not take an overly powerful model, this will only cause unnecessary expenses and will not have a beneficial effect on the ventilation process.

When calculating the power of an exhaust fan, it is necessary to take into account the sensitivity of such equipment to system resistance. The presence of a decorative grille and valve can reduce the speed of air flow by three to five and even ten times. Therefore, you should not choose a device with minimal size and power.

The fan performance must be sufficient to ensure that exhaust air leaves through the valve from adjacent rooms, and not just from the room in which the device is installed. Before starting work on installing an exhaust valve with a fan, you must select a suitable location.

The hole for the exhaust valve is best made in the upper part of the outer wall, this position facilitates the effective removal of exhaust air

To do this, use a wall that is as far as possible from the place where fresh air is taken in. Typically, supply ventilation is installed in the walls or windows of rooms such as a bedroom or living room.

A kitchen or kitchen is more suitable for exhaust ventilation. As a result, unpleasant odors, excess water vapor, etc. are also removed with the exhaust air.

The hole for the exhaust valve must be made at the top of the wall. First they mark, then start drilling. A hole of suitable size is made with a drill and a feather annular drill. Sometimes you have to use a special tool with a diamond attachment.

The opening for the exhaust valve must be sized and configured to match the dimensions of the fan. This is usually a round device, but sometimes it is more convenient to use a device with a square body. In this case, the hole for the valve must be hollowed out using a hammer drill with a spatula-shaped attachment.

The diameter and shape of the hole in the wall for installing the exhaust valve must correspond to the characteristics of the fan that comes with the device

Such work is usually accompanied by a large amount of dust, from which even the use of an industrial vacuum cleaner cannot help. Before starting drilling, it is necessary to cover the surfaces with film or other suitable materials to protect them from contamination.

A core drilling machine can be used to drill through particularly thick exterior walls made of durable materials. This is expensive equipment that is cheaper to rent than to buy. Specialized companies provide core drilling services at a relatively low price, which depends on the drilling depth and wall material.

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WITH The air exchange system in a room affects not only the well-being of the people inside. The microclimate is important for the structure itself as well as for the owners. In the absence of effective air exchange, humidity increases, wood begins to rot, mold appears, condensation appears in the thermal insulation, that is, the life of the house decreases significantly. Do-it-yourself ventilation in a private house, the scheme of which is cleverly designed, is no more difficult to perform than other engineering systems, but its importance is often downplayed.

Hygienic standards

It is estimated that a calm person consumes approximately 10 cubic meters of air per hour. If the gas mixture is not renewed, then its quality deteriorates significantly every hour, which affects people’s well-being.

According to standards in force since the mid-50s, in living rooms with a ceiling height of up to 3 meters and an area of ​​up to 20 square meters, the entire volume of air must be renewed once an hour. For toilets and kitchens, this standard is an order of magnitude higher, and the air exchange rate reaches 140 cubic meters per hour.

During individual construction, these parameters are often neglected, considering them a waste of money. The owners mistakenly believe that vents are sufficient for this purpose, but this is not the case. Firstly, radon, an inert radioactive gas that must be removed, constantly accumulates on the ground floor of any building, especially those with basements. Secondly, carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide, which appear as a result of human activities or after the combustion of fuel, also seriously harm people and must be removed. Thirdly, the operating conditions of any building require compliance with constant temperature and humidity parameters, which can only be achieved through effective ventilation.

Scheme of radon penetration into a residential building

Types of ventilation systems: how to choose the right one

Anyone who has at least once been interested in how to arrange ventilation in a private house with their own hands knows about two fundamentally different methods of air exchange - forced and natural. In forced systems, the movement of air masses is carried out under the influence of electric fans, and with natural air exchange, the laws of physics are used - gravity and the principles of gas expansion.

Example of a combined ventilation system

Natural ventilation

A typical solution used in apartment buildings is a vertical ventilation duct facing the roof. For private houses, this option is also ideal, but the box must be laid by the design and installed during the construction stage. Ventilation hoses from the entire house are supplied to this box; if installed correctly, it has sufficient draft in any wind direction. The disadvantage of such ventilation is that it needs to be planned in advance.

If the house does not have a main duct, then natural ventilation in a private house is usually classic supply and exhaust. For effective exchange, fresh air must enter from below, and intake must occur from above. It is not advisable to drill ventilation holes near the floor, as this will always leave the floor cold. The best place for them is under the windowsill above installed radiators. When air enters from the street, it is heated, the colder part tends to fall, and warm gases with convection currents rush upward, that is, effective mixing occurs.

In houses where there is long burning wood burning stoves, and also, they take on part of the work of providing ventilation. Along with combustion products, unnecessary gases accumulated in the room also fly out into the chimney.

The natural ventilation system uses special supply and exhaust valves, the first one works for the entrance, the second one for the exit. These valves protect people from such phenomena as ventilation overturning, when, in the event of a strong wind, low temperature or simply incorrect calculation, the hood begins to work in the opposite direction, that is, it does not remove exhaust air from the room, but draws in the flow from the street. To prevent this, you just need to increase the length of the channel; according to the standards, it should be at least two meters.

Forced ventilation

Natural air exchange occurs when there is a difference in gas pressure indoors and outdoors. In order to create such a difference, fans are used in forced systems. It makes sense to install ventilation in private houses with your own hands according to the scheme: for different groups of rooms - your own. Obviously, the garage and boiler room should have a system that will prevent harmful gases from entering the living rooms. The kitchen is a place where food is constantly prepared, so according to standards, this is where the air exchange should be the most intense.

There are no strict restrictions in the forced ventilation device; it works regardless of the configuration of the air duct and the direction of the wind, therefore it is recommended for private construction.

Features of ventilation systems

Air flows are difficult to calculate and predict in advance, so the right solutions can only be found through experience. Correctly calculated ventilation in a private house with your own hands, which was developed with a reasonable approach, will serve effectively. Both forced and natural systems must take into account the following:

• Air from the kitchen, bathroom or garage should not be allowed to enter the living rooms, therefore only an air supply is installed in the air supply, and in the kitchen, bathroom, garage or boiler room -;
• carbon dioxide and combustion products always collect from above, so exhaust valves should be installed near the ceiling in the corner farthest from the window;
• ventilation pipes with a round cross-section are always more efficient, since they have less air flow resistance;
• if there is an exhaust hood, the inflow must also be specially organized, otherwise drafts will appear in the most unexpected corners of the house.

When building private houses, many developers are interested in whether ventilation is needed in a private house and how it is done? It is necessary to decide on all these points at the housing design stage in order to avoid further alterations and various negative phenomena. Therefore, further we will get acquainted with all the types and features of ventilation systems in private houses, and also consider why they are needed in general.

Why ventilation in private houses?

It's no secret that ventilation is the key to a comfortable stay in a room. After all, it ensures the outflow of old air and the influx of fresh air, which is so necessary for human life.

True, in private houses not so long ago, ventilation systems, in the traditional sense of the word, were not installed, since the inflow and outflow of air was carried out naturally through cracks in wooden windows and doors. In addition, building materials were used that “breathe” on their own.

Nowadays, when building houses, as a rule, modern technologies are used, in particular, sealed plastic double-glazed windows are installed, insulation is performed with airtight insulation, etc. As a result, the structure is completely airtight.

In this case, organizing ventilation in a private house is simply necessary, otherwise the lack of air exchange will affect the well-being of the residents. In addition, increased levels of humidity will lead to mold on the walls, which will not only ruin the finish, but can also cause serious illness.

Types of ventilation

Arrangement of ventilation in a private house can be done in several ways:

Each type of ventilation has its own advantages and disadvantages. For example, if a country house is located in an area where the air is clean and fragrant, then it is not advisable to install a forced system, which, among other things, filters incoming air masses.

If the house is located in an urban area, then air purification is a necessity, because it is unlikely that anyone will want to breathe exhaust gases or industrial waste. But how to determine which ventilation is better in a particular case? Below we will try to answer this question.

In the photo - an air duct in a private house

Natural ventilation

Natural ventilation is an excellent choice if the house meets the following mandatory requirements:

1. As mentioned above, it is located in an area with truly clean air;
2. The walls were built from the following building materials:
   • wood;
   • cellular concrete (foam-gas block);
   • cinder block;
   • bricks, etc.

It should be noted that the natural ventilation system is also the cheapest, since there is no need to spend money on equipment, the price of which can be very high.

In addition, it has some other advantages:

• Operation does not require additional energy costs;
• The house will be filled with natural street air with all its aromas;
• With a correctly executed scheme, it is possible to regulate the intensity of air exchange.

Therefore, in private homes, where possible, systems with natural air exchange are installed. The design of such systems is extremely simple - the exhaust is carried out through the outside. Typically, the duct runs through the roof.

Air flow occurs through supply valves, which are installed in the walls. If necessary, these devices can be completely blocked.

Advice! You can check the effectiveness of ventilation using a match or lighter. To do this, you need to bring the light to. With good draft, the light should deviate towards the ventilation duct.

Supply and exhaust

The forced system is the most effective.

Therefore, it makes sense to perform it in the following cases:

1. If the outside air is polluted;
2. If the walls are insulated with airtight materials or built from the following materials:
   • expanded polystyrene concrete;
   • sandwich panels;
   • vacuum panels;
   • MDM panels, etc.

It must be said that the ventilation device in a private house in this case is quite complex. It is necessary to ensure air flow in all rooms, especially in rest and sleeping rooms, as well as in the kitchen.

Exhaust ducts, as a rule, are supplied to non-residential premises, such as:

• Kitchen;
• Toilet;
• Bathroom, etc.

Air is extracted from other rooms naturally, through cracks in the interior doors. At the same time, the forced system allows you to regulate air circulation.

Expensive equipment can maintain certain modes even in automatic mode thanks to electronics and built-in temperature and humidity sensors.

Components for ventilation in a private home usually include the following elements:

• Fans– clean air is forcibly sucked into the system and old air is removed.
• Filters– provide air purification. Since the degree of purification may vary, these devices are selected individually. It should be noted that in some cases filters are installed not only in the supply ducts, but also in the exhaust ducts, to protect them from clogging.
• Air ducts– channels through which fresh air is delivered and old air is removed. As a rule, steel or plastic pipes are used for this.
• Heaters– provide heating of incoming flows, which allows you to save on heating in winter, since the room is not cooled during ventilation.

The easiest way to perform supply and exhaust ventilation is using special installations. These devices contain all the necessary components, so installing ventilation in a private house comes down to installing air ducts and connecting the ventilation unit to them.

The best solution is installations with a recuperator, which provides heating of the supply air flows using the heat of the exhaust air. This type of device is the most economical in winter.

Advice! To prevent condensation in the ventilation in a private home, the air ducts located in the attic must be insulated.

Mixed systems

In mixed systems, forced exhaust is most often an addition to natural ventilation. For example, if a gas stove is installed in the kitchen, you can install an exhaust hood above it, which will draw out combustion products, steam and fat emissions during the cooking process.

In some cases, general forced traction is performed. The simplest version of its design is a ventilation grille with a fan. This device can be used in cases where there is insufficient draft in the system.

More advanced models of such fans can turn on automatically when the temperature or humidity in the room increases. If necessary, installing such a device with your own hands will not be difficult for any home craftsman.

Independent ventilation arrangement

Often, the construction of a house takes place in a strict economy mode. In this case, many of the works, including the installation of a ventilation system, are carried out by the owners themselves.

The assembly of all the components itself is not difficult. However, before installing ventilation in a private house, it is necessary to competently draw up a project.

Correct and efficient ventilation can only be carried out if it has been calculated beforehand.

The following factors are taken into account:

• Room volume;
• Number of people living in the house;
• The presence of stoves and other devices that take oxygen or pollute the air.

However, it hardly makes sense to spend a huge amount of your time, because a specialist can do this work much faster, and will also help you choose the most optimal and affordable scheme in a given case.

Note! It is better to tackle the project even before building a house, since ventilation ducts are often laid during the construction of walls.

Once the circuit is ready, installation is not difficult. The most important thing is to install the ventilation ducts if they were not laid during the construction of the walls.

As a rule, air ducts are connected to each other using clamps. Moreover, there are clamps that allow you to attach ventilation ducts to walls or even the ceiling.

When using special equipment, the installation procedure is contained in the instructions that are included in the kit. True, some complex electronically controlled models require debugging, which must be performed by specialists.

Here, perhaps, are all the main types and features of ventilation in private houses.

Conclusion

Ventilation in modern private houses is a prerequisite for comfortable and safe living. Since there are quite a few options for implementing the system, the choice depends on the characteristics of the house itself, environmental conditions and the financial capabilities of the owners.

The video in this article can provide some additional information on this topic.