Sharpening a knife correctly by hand is quite difficult. It will take some time to develop the habit of maintaining a constant sharpening angle, which is not at all easy. A knife sharpening device can make the task easier. There are factory options. But for good copies you have to pay a couple of hundred dollars, and this is clearly a lot. The good news is that these devices are easy to make yourself. Moreover, many homemade sharpeners for knives, no worse in functionality than those from famous manufacturers, but they cost many times less.
Knife sharpening basics
Knives have various applications and even in an ordinary kitchen there are several of them. There is one for slicing bread and other soft foods, and one for cutting meat, chopping bones, and other hard objects. And these are just household ones. But there are also those who take them hunting and fishing. If you look closely, you will see that they all have a different sharpening angle (this is if they have not already been sharpened at home). It is the sharpening angle that is the most important characteristic, which is determined by the purpose of a given blade.
At what angle
The sharpening angle is determined based on the main area of application of a particular blade:
This general recommendations, introduced based on many years of experience. There are, however, options: some blades have several zones with different sharpening. This makes them more versatile, but the difficulty of sharpening increases many times over.
From the above it follows that the device for sharpening knives must be able to set the required sharpening angle. And this is the main difficulty in its design and manufacture.
What to sharpen
To sharpen knives, sharpening stones of various grain sizes are used. They are conventionally divided into coarse, medium and fine. Why conditional? Because in different countries The grain size has its own designation. The most convenient classification is by the number of grains per unit area. It is expressed in numbers: 300, 600, 1000, etc. Some companies duplicate in English terms. Here is an approximate division:
In addition to grain size, sharpening stones are also distinguished by their origin: some are of natural origin (slate, corundum, etc.), some are ceramic and diamond. Which ones are better? It’s hard to say - a matter of taste, but natural ones wear off faster and are rarely fine-grained.
Natural ones are soaked in water before use or simply moistened with it. They absorb water and, during sharpening, an abrasive paste is formed from water and separated abrasive particles on the surface, which increases the efficiency of sharpening. For the same purposes, you can use a special little (honing oil) or a mixture of water and soap (whichever you prefer). In general, you should try all these options with each sharpening stone and choose the best one.
The shape of a whetstone for sharpening knives is a block, and it is desirable that its length be much longer than the length of the blade - it is easier to sharpen. Bars with double grain are convenient - coarse on one side, finer on the other. To sharpen knives for ordinary purposes, it is enough to have two bars with medium grain (different) and two fine ones (one can be very fine).
Manual sharpening procedure
A device for sharpening knives only makes it easier to sharpen the edge, so knowledge of manual sharpening techniques is mandatory. Without them, it is impossible to sharpen a knife correctly.
The procedure for sharpening knives is as follows:
At this point, we can assume that sharpening the knife is complete. Some people are still finishing the edge on the old belt. A piece of belt can be secured to a wooden block (glued, not nailed), rubbed with goyim paste. Then pass several times alternately with one side or the other, but turning the cutting edge back. This way the last grooves left by the abrasive are polished and the belt is not “cut” in the process.
How to make a homemade knife sharpener
All homemade knife sharpeners solve the main problem - they allow you to accurately maintain a given angle of inclination of the block to the blade, which is very important for obtaining a good cutting edge. There are very simple devices, there are a little more complicated, but allow you to work with great comfort. Choose according to your taste.
Some of the options are from improvised means
A simple device for sharpening knives
Essentially this is a holder for sharpening stones. Everything is elementary: two triangles made of wood, which are connected by pins with wings. A block is clamped between the corners at the required angle. You can set the angle using a protractor, special program on a smartphone or using the rules of trigonometry (right triangle).
Knife sharpening device - abrasive holder
When sharpening on such a device, the knife must be kept pointed strictly vertically at all times. It's much easier than holding it at a certain angle.
The same idea has another embodiment: on a reliable basis, make movable holders into which bars are inserted and secured in the desired position. The corporate prototype is pictured below.
A homemade device for sharpening knives is made of wooden blocks. It turns out to be light, so that it does not move from its place, it needs to be fixed with something. To avoid holding with your hand, you can use clamps.
Rotating holders allow you to set a given angle, and then fix it with the help of “wings”
Such a device for sharpening knives, of course, makes the work easier, but it is still quite difficult to maintain the angle: you must constantly control the verticality of the blade. Such a habit can be developed over time, but starting is difficult.
Device on wheels
An interesting version of a manual knife sharpener with a fixed block and a wheeled cart on which the knife is mounted. It is made on the basis of sharpeners for knives, chisels and planes. This device also works well with a knife, but you need to get used to sharpening a rounded edge.
IN this option, how in manual sharpening, the block is stationary, but the blade of the knife, mounted on a movable cart, moves. The angle is set by the height of the bar relative to the platform on which the blade is mounted. The peculiarity of this device is that the table must be level. It can be a tabletop made of natural stone, or you can put glass on a regular table.
In the version presented above, the angle changes slightly, which is usually sufficient for sharpening similar types of knives - kitchen knives, for example. If necessary, the design can be improved by adding holders (pictured below).
All this is implemented very simply, as it resembles a regular construction set: planks with holes in them, everything is assembled with bolts and screws.
There is also a device to ensure the immobility of the block.
The advantage of this whole design is that it is easy to unfold the knife while maintaining perpendicularity on the rounded area, and it is also very easy to handle on the other side: you need to turn the cart over. For this purpose, four pairs of wheels were made.
Homemade manual machine for sharpening knives
Slightly more complex and much more convenient homemade devices, which are made on the basis of well-known branded devices. They have an adjustable platform on which the knife is fixed. The site is set at a given angle. The block is mounted on a movable rod attached to the stand.
Self-made devices in some ways repeat the design presented above, but there are some differences. There are many options. Let's give some.
Option one: a fixed platform on which the blade is fixed
This device is made from leftover laminate (can be used), two steel rods with a diameter of 8 mm and a movable fastener.
This design has a fixed base, to which a platform with a knife lock is attached on regular hinges. The near edge of the platform can be raised at some angle convenient for work. But otherwise she is motionless.
On a vertically mounted steel rod there is a movably mounted latch, in which a loop is attached to the side. A rod is inserted into it, on which the block is fixed. This loop is simple, but not the most The best decision: there is no rigid fixation, which means the angle will “walk”.
Particular attention should be paid to the bar lock. An emphasis is placed on the rod at some distance from the edge (about 30-35 cm). This will be a permanent fixture. The second one is made movable; it is fixed after installing the bar using a screw and a thread cut into the body of the holder. The second option is to cut a thread on the rod and tighten the installed bar using a nut.
Knife holder - one or two steel plates mounted on a movable platform. They are fixed movably using screws and wings. Having loosened the fasteners, insert the knife blade and clamp it. It is very difficult to move it. Then, installing a pin with a fixed bar in the loop, adjust its height so that the required angle is set.
You can, as in the photo, make templates with the required angles and ensure that the planes coincide. After cross bar fixed, you can work - move the block in the desired direction.
This device for sharpening knives works well, but you can only move the abrasive along the blade when sharpening a kitchen knife. Classic sharpening - movement perpendicular cutting edge. This can be achieved on the straight part of the blade. If the blade is short, this will be almost perpendicular, but on a rounded part on a fixed holder this cannot be done. And all such devices “suffer” from this drawback. Once again, they are a great option for sharpening. kitchen knives(below is another good option from the same series).
Option two: with a movable platform and a magnetic holder
In this version homemade device for sharpening knives, the problem of previous sharpenings has been solved. Here the frame remains motionless, which sets the angle of movement of the block. The bar holder moves freely along a guide placed under the right angle. The knife is mounted on a movable table. You can, as in the presented version, do magnetic holder, you can - a regular one made of a metal plate and “lambs”. Move the table so that the movement of the abrasive is perpendicular. Actually, everything is in the video.
One clarification: in this case it is very important that the surface on which the table with the attached knife moves is horizontal and level. You can put glass or use a polymer tabletop (marble will also work).
Dull knives on the farm can become not only a reason for bad mood housewife, but also the cause of accidents. Hardware stores have an assortment of tools designed for sharpening knives, but not all of them suit customers. Alternatively, you can make a machine for sharpening knives yourself; the drawings for its manufacture are not difficult for a person who knows how to craft.
Types of stones for processing blades
Before you start making a knife sharpening machine with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with information about its components. Grinding, or they can also be called - abrasive stones are one of the decisive factors in achieving excellent result, but the skill of the master plays an equally important role.
Types of whetstones
So to get the perfect sharpening you will have to practice a lot.
There are the following types of stones suitable for sharpening cutting surfaces:
- Tools that require water to operate. The advantage of this type of sharpening stone is that it saves material - the surface of the tool is less susceptible to wear.
- Oil stones are similar in structure to water stones, but have an oily surface.
- Natural stones are made from natural materials. Before making a tool, such a stone undergoes industrial processing.
- Artificial stones - used in their manufacture artificial materials. It is believed that an instrument made from non-natural components is inferior in quality natural materials, but they are also quite cheap.
If desired, you can make a homemade abrasive block. To do this, you need to take flat plexiglass 5 mm thick rectangular shape and use double-sided tape to stick it on it sandpaper. This is the easiest way to make a knife sharpener; it is convenient because when the sandpaper wears out, it is easy to replace.
Why is the sharpening angle so important?
The angle between the edges of the blade is called the sharpening angle. Precise adherence to the specified angle is the main requirement when processing cutting surface an abrasive tool, and it is its size that affects the sharpness of the blade.
Using a simple marker you can control the turning angle; just paint over the area being sharpened with it. Uniform erasing of paint indicates good quality blade processing.
Necessary conditions for a sharpening machine
In order to make knives with your own hands, you need to carefully plan the stages of work and draw up drawings. If the master has experience, then he can develop them himself or use ready-made drawings that are offered in specialized literature.
For ideal processing of the cutting surface, the machine must meet the following requirements:
- reliable and at the same time not too rigid fixation of the knife in a vice;
- compliance with the angle, during the sharpening process the angle must be constant;
- The design of the machine must provide for the possibility of changing the sharpening angle.
You can read below about how to make your own blade straightening devices that are in no way inferior to purchased mechanisms.
DIY knife sharpener
The most affordable option for a sharpening device
We are making the fastest version of the device. To do this, you need to prepare 2 pairs of wooden corners, an abrasive block and a protractor to correctly determine the sharpening angle. The dimensions of the bars must be the same. Wooden corners They are fastened together using adjustable screws, and the sharpening block is securely fixed between them at the required angle.
Despite the ease of manufacture, such machines have a number of disadvantages, these include:
- the processing angle has to be maintained manually - which is not very convenient during a long processing process;
- the need for rigid fixation of the device on work surface for its stability;
- When sharpening, you need to constantly monitor the tension of the ties so that the block does not change its position.
But it should be noted that such simple homemade products They are quite suitable for processing home kitchen knives and do not require large financial investments in production.
Manual sharpener with adjustable stone
This machine is a more complex design, but it is much more convenient to use. The basis for its creation was a model of a machine called the Lansky sharpener.
Lansky sharpener
The advantage of such models is the reliable fixation of the knife blade.
The device is a support table on which the knife is fixed. At the opposite end of the table, a screw stand with a bar is vertically fixed. A guide rod is inserted into this bar, on which an abrasive stone is mounted. By moving the bar along the screw rod, you can change the angle of metal processing.
The advantages of machines with a similar design include:
- high processing accuracy;
- the possibility of replacing the block with sandpaper glued to plexiglass;
- The wide support base allows you to secure the machine on any table.
When operating the machine, the only difficulty lies in the long-term adjustment of the position of the sharpening stone. If processing is planned different types blades, you will have to reconfigure the device each time.
Possibility of adjusting the position of the knife
An alternative to a machine with a moving sharpening stone is a device where it is possible to adjust the position of the knife relative to the whetstone. Basically, its design is similar to the machine with an adjustable bar, a little easier to manufacture.
A movable block is mounted on the base plane to secure the rod with the bar. Clamps are also installed on it, one is adjustable, the other is persistent. Using an adjustable clamp, you can adjust the sharpening angle.
The only drawback of this model is the appearance of wear on the bar in one specific place. This drawback can be eliminated by installing a long pin to adjust the edge relative to the surface being processed.
Each option described above has its own advantages and disadvantages. When making your choice in favor of one model or another, you need to focus on the level of skills and the magnitude of the needs for operating the machine.
Video: Making a knife sharpening machine
Every housewife sooner or later begins to get dull knives with which she cuts bread, vegetables or cuts meat. Using a dull knife is not only inconvenient, but also unsafe. It can fall off the product being cut at any time and cause injury. Therefore, the tool should be periodically sharpened using special device for sharpening knives.
A wide range of such sharpening devices are offered in stores. But for one reason or another, they do not always suit the consumer. In this case, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands, having previously studied the types of sharpening stones, the features of the tool and the proposed drawings.
Sharpening knives - necessary conditions
For efficient and long-term use of the knife the most important factor when sharpening it is angle between blade edges. During the sharpening process, it is necessary to restore the previously specified angle, which will fully comply with technological standards and quickly, freely and efficiently cut the material.
Each blade has its own optimal angle:
- for a razor and scalpel, the sharpening angle should be 10–15 degrees;
- knives for cutting bread, fruits and vegetables are sharpened at an angle of 15–20 degrees;
- multifunctional knives for various products are processed at an angle of 20–25 degrees;
- hunting and camping knives - at an angle of 25–30 degrees;
- knives for cutting hard materials - 30–40 degrees.
Without a special device, it is difficult to sharpen the blade at the desired angle. While holding the knife with your hands, it is quite difficult to ensure required tilt angle cutting tool. To facilitate this process there are special devices, which you can make with your own hands. Their designs are quite simple, and the manufacturing itself does not take much time.
There are many types of knife sharpeners, from which you can choose the one that best suits your needs.
All devices consist of two parts:
- a block of abrasive material;
- stop for attaching the knife.
You can use ready-made special stones as a bar or make it yourself.
Sharpening stones - types and manufacture
There are several types of stones on sale:
Water tools. When working with them, water is used, which saves the surface of the stone.
Oil The structure and shape of the stone resembles that of water, but its surface is the most oily.
Natural instruments are made from natural stones, which undergo industrial processing.
Artificial stones are made from non-natural components.
Rubber tools can also be found on sale, but working with them is not very convenient.
For self-made For an abrasive stone, you can use small rectangular glass plates with a thickness of 4–5 millimeters. Sandpaper of different grits should be glued to the surface of the plates using double-sided tape. The cost of such bars will be quite small, and the sandpaper can be replaced at any time.
However, when using a glass bar, you should be very careful carefully tighten the nuts, otherwise the glass may crack. In addition, no water is used when using it, so the abrasive wears out quickly. For the same reason, when sharpening knives, you should avoid rapid movements, which can lead to overheating of the material, and, therefore, to the loss of the properties of the blade.
Device for sharpening from wooden blocks
It is enough to simply make a sharpening tool from two wooden and two abrasive bars, which should be the same size.
For greater stability of the sharpening device to its lower surface, it is recommended attach a piece of rubber.
Do-it-yourself sharpener from mounting corners
The basis for this device is a Lansky sharpener, drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet.
Required materials and tools:
- metal plates measuring 4x11 centimeters;
- standard aluminum corners;
- metal rods about 15 centimeters long;
- set of nuts and bolts;
- a sharpening machine with a vice or a file;
- needle file
Instead of grinding machine You can use a file, since this tool is only needed for grinding off sharp corners and cleaning the metal cutting areas.
Stages of making a sharpener:
- According to the drawing, markings are made for future holes in the plates.
- The holes are drilled and threaded.
- Using a file, all sharp corners and edges are rounded. This will allow you to comfortably use the made knife.
- Holes are made in the corner in accordance with the drawing.
- The hole for the spoke support is expanded using a needle file.
- The holes for the studs are threaded.
- The rods are inserted into the outer holes and secured with nuts of the appropriate diameter (M6).
- An M8 bolt is screwed into the wider hole, the length of which should be about 14 centimeters. A wing nut must first be screwed onto it, on top of which two ordinary nuts are screwed. The bolt in the structure will be used as support post.
- Bolts are attached to the remaining holes, with which the knife will be clamped.
- Nuts are screwed onto the ends of the rods, a corner is threaded, which is fixed with the help of nuts. By lowering or raising the rods, you can adjust the sharpening angle.
- A thin metal rod in the shape of the letter L, a rod with an M6 thread, two holders and a wing nut are used to assemble a device that will hold the sharpening stone. The outermost holder must have a through hole for the knitting needle.
This knife sharpening device has a fairly wide range of pressing angle degrees and is most convenient to use.
How to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands at home and what materials/tools will help in this matter?
Knives in everyday life should always be sharp enough to comfortably perform their functions. When cooking and cutting food, they constantly become dull, and as a result, they need to be sharpened.
To carry out this work, many different machines and devices have been invented, ranging from a simple sharpening stone to complex electric sharpening machines. Usage simple timber It is quite inconvenient and takes a long period of time. Exist manual machines to carry out this work.
Manual knife sharpeners
Sharpening machines from the American company Lansky have slightly improved the usual sharpening with a bar. Using such a device, you can quite accurately adjust the angle of work with the blade, from 17 to 30 degrees.
Lansky sharpening device during operation
Any craftsman can make a similar machine for sharpening knives with his own hands due to the simplicity of its design, as demonstrated in the video below.
Locking blade machines
These devices allow you to sharpen a knife much faster because they allow you to apply more effort. Moreover, due to the presence of a rigid stop in the form of a table, the efficiency also increases several times.
SpitJack knife sharpening machine
As can be seen in the figure, in machines of this type the sharpening bar moves along the stationary blade under set angle. The sharpening angle is adjusted by changing the height of the bar attachment. Among the domestic analogues of such machines, we can mention the machine produced by the Ermak company.
Ermak sharpening device
Machines with fixed sharpening surfaces
In devices of this type, there is no way to adjust the sharpening angle yourself. Most often, such a device already has several different angles for operation. When using such machines, you simply need to move the blade along the sharpening recess.
This recess consists of two planes, one or two of which are the sharpening beam. So, in order to sharpen a kitchen appliance, you just need to run the knife along the sharpening surface several times.
Mechanical sharpener Chief's Choice
Electrical devices for pointing knives
We can also mention professional cutlery, which is used by most chefs and requires only a few seconds for the knife to become as sharp as possible again. These devices have an electric motor that rotates the sharpening blades. 
Such blades are often made from diamond abrasives, and the engine power does not exceed 100-150 kW. Although, of course, there are more powerful machines for sharpening blades that are used in production.
Making a sharpening device with your own hands
To make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, you will need: a piece of laminate, wooden slats, sandpaper, and two bots with lambs. Instead of laminate, you can use chipboard or plywood.
To make a knife holder, you need to cut off part of the laminate. To prevent the block from touching the holder when sharpening, you need to clean off its edge at an angle using sandpaper.
- We mark and cut off the upper part of the vertical stand on which the block will rest when sharpening. We choose an angle half as large as the one at which the knife will be sharpened; in our case it is 30°. For kitchen appliances It is better to use 10–15°. A total of 2 such parts will be needed.
- To correctly calculate the length of the base and the height of the racks, you need to roughly draw up the structure and make markings. It is worth considering that the height will be affected further installation transverse support. After that, we cut off all the parts and clean their edges.
- Now we mark and simultaneously drill holes in the base and the pressure plate for the bolts that secure the knife blade. When marking, it is important to maintain the distance of the holes from the edge of the base. This is necessary to ensure installation versatility since the knives have different blade widths. We fasten the pressure plate with bolts.
- Vertical posts can be secured with screws, but given that the load on them is small, it is better to use hot glue. In the same way we attach the horizontal crossbar. At this stage, the sharpener is already ready, all that remains is to make the block.
- To make a bar, cut a strip of suitable length. On one edge we glue sandpaper with required size abrasive, in our case it is P1200. To improve the result, you can make several bars with different grain sizes. The range P600 – P2000 is considered more optimal. To protect your hands from cuts, it is advisable to screw the handle on the top side of the rail.
- As a result, we get a functional and practical machine for sharpening kitchen knives. When working, it rests with bolts on the edge of the table, which increases the comfort of use.
Video: how to make a knife sharpener from a piece of laminate?
How to make a knife sharpening machine
There are two main reasons why buying a factory sharpener is not an option. Firstly, the purchase of an inexpensive device made in China, in further operation, will not provide the product with the required quality.
Branded copies can be a solution to this problem, but a significant drawback is the cost. If you don’t have the opportunity or just the desire to pay a tidy sum for a device, you can make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands. There is no need to develop new designs; create your own creation based on already existing models. DIY knife sharpening machine, different types with detailed instructions.
We imitate a sharpener model from Lansky
This knife sharpening machine is presented in the form of two metal corners, connected to each other. The sharpening angle is determined by the hole in which the knitting needle with the nozzle at the end will be inserted.
Of the options being considered, this one is the least convenient to use, but not easy to manufacture. We will improve the device and try to make a device for sharpening knives with a wider range of pressing angle degrees.
We take ordinary metal plates,
whose dimensions are 4x11 cm. Or more, all the same, during operation, the parts will be filed and adjusted to the required parameters.
Using a grinder, sharp corners are removed at the ends of the parts (the sides that act as clamps). Using a file, we grind down the edges of the clamps; you should get a smooth bevel from the middle of the base to the edges of the plates.
According to the drawing, we make markings for future holes. We drill them and cut the threads. We round off all sharp edges and corners on the plates with a file (not only for the sake of nobleness appearance, but also for the sake of comfortable use, so that nothing gets into your hands).
We purchase a standard aluminum corner and make holes in it in accordance with the drawing above. We cut threads in the holes intended for the entry of the pin. And the hole that is intended to support the knitting needles must be widened using a needle file.
Next you will need two pieces of metal rod
approximately 15 cm long. We insert them into the outer holes and fix the insertion depth with two nuts of the corresponding diameter. In our case, these elements are equal to size M6. Into a hole of a larger diameter we screw a bolt (length about 14 cm) size M8, onto which a wing nut is already screwed, and on top of it a pair of ordinary ones, but larger in diameter than the bolt itself. It will be used as a support post for the structure. The remaining holes are for bolts that will be used to adjust the clamping force of the blade.
Nuts are threaded onto the ends of the rods, then corners are put on, which are again pressed with the help of nuts. By lowering them up or down, we can adjust the required sharpening angle.
The element that will hold the blade for sharpening is assembled from a thin metal rod (shaped like the letter “L”), two holders (the outer one with a through hole for a knitting needle), a wing nut and a rod with an M6 thread.
We imitate a sharpener model from Spyderco
This knife sharpening machine is presented in the form of a plastic horizontal holder with several holes. And each nest has its own angle of inclination.
Of all the options that will be considered, this one has the lowest level of sharpening quality. The problem is that the blade will be pressed manually, unlike the first option, without additional fixation about the support. But despite this, this device for sharpening knives, it is quite suitable for use for domestic purposes, and plus - it is very simple in terms of production.
In the process we will need two wooden bars with dimensions 6x4x30 cm, two bolts and wing nuts of size M6 or M8, two thin knitting needles (curved in the shape of the letter “L”).
The tools you need are a hacksaw blade, a chisel and a hammer, a file with sandpaper, a school protractor and a drill.
Using a regular protractor
We apply markings with the required angle of inclination. We take the canvas and file the first mark on one of the parts. There is no need to go deeper than the width of the canvas itself.
Turn the hacksaw over and insert its blunt side into the cut slot. We place the second part on top and make sure that both the edges of the elements themselves and the markings on them match. Next, we saw through all the remaining lines in the same way.
Apply the chisel to the excess wood that needs to be removed. Lightly tap the top of the chisel with a hammer and knock out small chips. When the bulk of the wood has been removed, we bring the area to the required level using a file.
We drill holes for the bolts and spokes to fit in as shown in the figure. Using fine-grit sandpaper, we smooth the edges of the holes, the corners of the parts and their entire surface.
We thread the bolts through the larger holes, then thread regular nuts and tighten them tighter. The smaller ones contain knitting needles (necessary to prevent the blades from sliding down during operation). We insert the canvases themselves into the grooves and press them against the second half of the product. At the end we fix everything with a pair of wing nuts.
We imitate a sharpener model from Apex
This machine for sharpening knives is presented in the form of a fairly massive device with a stand and a platform placed on it at an angle; a rod is mounted on the side, on which the end of the nozzle rests. This type of sharpening device, despite its dimensions, is the most successful in comparison with the previous ones.
It is easy to use and its sharpening quality is high. In addition, making such a knife sharpener with your own hands is very simple.
To work we will need the following:
- (not a whole one, even a quarter is enough);
- magnet (with slots for bolts, if it is not possible to drill them yourself);
- metal rod M6 or M8;
- Not large sizes wooden block;
- a small piece of plexiglass;
- two bolts and three wing nuts;
- 10 screws;
- 4 rubber feet;
- saw;
- drill;
- ceramic clamps (or wood blanks).
First you need to cut three small blanks from a sheet of chipboard. Dimensions of the first: 37x12 cm. Dimensions of the second: 30x8 cm, measuring 6 cm from the edge on the longer side, drill a hole. Dimensions of the third: 7x8 cm. We saw off an 8 cm long element from the block (section 4x2 cm).
We drill in segment two through holes perpendicular to each other. The first is at a distance of 3 cm from one edge, the second is at the same distance from the other. Starting from the edge of the block and right up to the hole, we cut out a pile of wood 1 cm thick. The plexiglass cut has the following parameters: 6x12 cm. A slot is drilled along the middle of the blade.
We take the first largest workpiece
from chipboard and drill holes in the corners for future legs of the product. At a distance of 4 cm from its edge, we place the smallest workpiece perpendicularly and connect them together using 2 self-tapping screws.
We place the edge of a medium-sized part on the top of the small workpiece and again connect them using 2 self-tapping screws. The hole in the middle piece should be closer to the top of the smaller one. The free edge of a medium-sized workpiece is rigidly attached to the platform great details again using 2 self-tapping screws.
Using a drill, drill a shallow cavity into medium-sized parts. It should be almost at the very edge of it highest point, and the dimensions correspond to the parameters of the magnet.
We mount a magnet inside (so that it does not rise above the level of the surface of the board) and fix it with small self-tapping screws.
We place a piece of plexiglass on a medium-sized board so that its hole and slot coincide with each other. We pass a bolt with a washer on it through them and screw the nut from below.
A hole with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the iron rod is drilled on the free edge of the largest chipboard part. The rod itself is fixed using two nuts: a regular one and a wing nut. To prevent them from cutting into the surface of the board, we separate them using washers.
A blank from a block is screwed onto a fixed rod.
A bolt is inserted into the hole to which the cut was made, screwed on the outside with a nut. By tightening the knob, we fix the part at a certain height of the rod; when we release it, we move it up and down freely. The sharpening angle is adjusted using this bar (raise or lower along the rod).
The element for clamping the sharpening blade is assembled from a cut of a metal rod of two ceramic or wooden blanks and 4 nuts with washers. They are strung in the same order as in the photo. At the very end, rubber feet are screwed on for greater stability of the product.
We looked at three various options sharpening devices. And each of them has its pros and cons. You should choose a specific option based on your needs, as well as your skills in a similar work plan.
Information to note : , .
