From time to time it becomes necessary to move plants on a site from one place to another. Transplanting roses requires compliance with certain rules that allow you to successfully root a perennial flower in a new place. Beginning gardeners often make mistakes: replanting blooming rose, choose the wrong time to move the bushes. As a result, the plant begins to get sick, stops blooming or dies.
When is the best time to replant roses?
The reasons why roses in the garden need to be replanted can be different:
- depleted soil;
- deterioration of illumination due to overgrown neighboring plants;
- regular pest attacks;
- creation of new flower beds.
The planned movement of a flower to a new place is best done at the end of the season. Autumn transplantation of roses is considered the safest for the plant. You can replant the bush in early spring, this will slightly “delay” the beginning of flowering, but will not have any effect negative influence per plant. The most difficult thing is to transplant an adult specimen at the height of summer season, especially during heavy flowering.
in spring
Replanting a rose in the spring to a new place is carried out at a time when the soil is saturated with moisture after thawing. snow cover, warmed up to 7-10 °C, and the buds on the bush have not yet swelled. During this period, it is provided optimal conditions for the survival of bushes. The disadvantage of spring transplantation is that the rose spends additional forces on the formation of new roots and adaptation to the place, which interferes with the onset of flowering.
The calendar period for carrying out work to move a flower depends on the climate. In the middle zone, roses are planted in early April, in the southern regions in mid-February.
In summer
If there is a need to replant adult bushes in the summer, special rules should be followed. The plant is subjected to radical pruning. Remove all buds and flowers, shorten the shoots by half. For tall roses, trunks no more than 50 cm high are left; dwarf varieties cut off the shoots after 2-3 buds.
The preferred time for transfer is evening hours and cloudy weather. At first, a rose planted in a new place is often watered and protected from sun rays and winds. On hot and dry days spray warm water.
in autumn
Roses are transplanted in the fall 3-4 weeks before the onset of frost. In this case, the plant successfully takes root in the still warm soil, but does not have time to grow new shoots. More early date planting a flower in a new place will provoke the growth of green mass, which will weaken the plant before the winter cold. Planting roses immediately before the temperature drops to negative levels leads to the death of the perennial. A weakened plant will not have time to grow new roots, adapt to changed conditions and will not survive the winter cold.
Selecting and preparing a place for a rose garden
Lush flowering, immunity to pests and diseases is achieved by planting roses in right place. The area for the flower garden must meet several requirements:
- illumination during daylight hours. Do not plant perennials in the shade of trees, shrubs or garden buildings;
- soil fertility. Flowering plant needs a lot of nutrients;
- absence of stagnation of water and spring flooding of the site. Roses growing in too wet ground, are constantly exposed to fungal diseases;
- protection from winds. You should not allocate an area for a flower bed with roses that is blown by cold streams from the north and west.
Site preparation is carried out several weeks before transplantation. The soil is dug up and freed from weeds, old roots and other debris. The soil is enriched with mineral fertilizers and wood ash. Poor soil additionally fertilize with rotted compost or humus. Feeding is carried out no later than 2 weeks before transplantation, so that root system the flower did not get burned.
Preparing the plant for transplantation
The main task when transplanting an adult bush is to preserve the root system as much as possible. The roses are moved to a new place along with the lump of earth in which they grew. Grafted flowers are characterized by deep roots, especially the main stem. The length can be more than one and a half meters. It makes no sense to dig up the main root completely; it can be cut off. Own-rooted seedlings, as a rule, have surface system roots.
In dry weather, it is necessary to water the flower abundantly 2 days before transshipment. It is quite easy to dig up small specimens; their root system corresponds to the above-ground part and the procedure does not cause difficulties. The situation is different with large bushes. To transplant such roses, the following technology is required:
- The branches of the plant are carefully tied with twine or wrapped in coarse cloth. This makes it easier to access the soil around the plant;
- around the rose bush they dig a trench with a diameter equal to the above-ground part of the plant, gradually going deeper along the entire length of the roots;
- the longest root shoots cut off using a sharp shovel or other garden tools. Before planting, the cut site is treated with ash;
- the dug earthen ball is carefully moved onto a durable plastic film and transported to the landing site.
If you plan to plant roses the next day, wrap the soil around the roots with a damp cloth to prevent them from drying out.
How to replant roses
It is advisable to transplant the dug bush into a prepared hole as soon as possible. If damaged areas of roots are visually visible, they must be removed by treating the cut area with copper sulfate or ash. Large specimens of bushes can be moved around the site on burlap and transplanted into the planting hole along with it. The roots will grow through the loose tissue without any problems.
Planting scheme
The diameter of the hole for the bush is determined in accordance with the circumference of the main part of the shoots. The hole is dug 15-20 cm wider and 10 cm deeper. The distance between individual seedlings is left according to the following scheme:
- miniature, low-growing species– after 30-40 cm;
- hybrid tea varieties - after 60-90 cm;
- weaving, standard species - at a distance of 50-100 cm;
- large-sized, tall varieties - after 1.5-2 m.
This planting scheme will allow growing roses to receive a sufficient amount of nutrients and lighting, and will eliminate the interweaving of root shoots between individual bushes.
Procedure technology
A layer of fine gravel or broken brick is placed at the bottom and sprinkled with a heap of fertile soil. Place an earthen ball with a plant, add some soil and spill it with water. Fill in the remaining soil, carefully compact it and spill it with water again. The rose bush is buried so that the root collar is at the same level as before transplantation. If you transplant a rose correctly, it will take root in a new place within 2-3 weeks.
Secrets and features
Regardless of the variety, age and condition of rose bushes, there are uniform requirements for replanting:
- use clean gardening tools to reduce the risk of infecting a weakened rose;
- provide air cover for the winter for flowers transplanted in the fall;
- replant bushes no more often than once every 3-4 years;
- Before replanting, remove dry, diseased stems, buds and flowers.
In addition, there are special rules according to which different types perennial flower.
How to replant a blooming rose
It is possible to replant a rose during flowering, but the procedure will require more time and effort. It is recommended to do this only if absolutely necessary. Old, large specimens may die due to severe stress. U small bushes shoots are radically pruned, leaves and flowers are removed. This reduces the percentage of moisture evaporation, and all forces are directed to rooting. IN summer heat Frequent watering is required, the soil is kept moist until new shoots appear on the shoots.
Transplanting climbing species
The main difficulty lies in carefully freeing the shoots of climbing and climbing varieties from the support. The optimal period to successfully transplant a climbing species is the autumn months. They begin to prepare the bush for moving in August. The top of young shoots is shortened so that by autumn it is partially lignified. Old stems are cut by 2/3, diseased and dry branches are removed. The cut site is disinfected with ash or garden varnish.
Replanting old bushes
It is difficult to transplant a large or old rose to a new location due to the large size of the overgrown root system. Digging up and moving the flower is easier with two people. It is recommended to replant an adult rose in autumn or early spring. Growing conditions are selected as close as possible to the previous ones. Before you start digging, prepare clean and sharp tools that are used to cut off too long root shoots. Roots injured by transplantation are easily affected by pests and diseases, so the soil and open areas treated with a solution of potassium permanganate.
The rose has earned a reputation as a capricious flower. Transplanting a blooming beauty to a new place is not easy; you need to make an effort to ensure proper preparation and aftercare. Due to the severe stress that the plant experiences during transplantation, abundant flowering resumes a year after successful rooting.
Reasons why a transplant is required
Sometimes it happens that the place in the garden for a climbing rose is chosen poorly.
- Suppose the nearest tree grew so large that covers the rose from the light, this causes it to stretch upward and bloom poorly.
- Another reason, e.g. construction of a new facility is planned, and the rose prevents this; it needs to be moved.
- Quite often it happens that the gardener has not calculated the space for the full growth of an adult bush. After all, some varieties grow vines over 3 meters in both directions. Roses are sensitive to lack of space, this makes them grow and bloom worse.
- One of the reasons for transplantation may be lack of space for winter shelter. This situation is common - while the rose is young, it needs a small area for laying. When the shoots become long they need as much space on the ground as they do on a vertical support. Not all varieties can be compactly rolled up for wintering; it is difficult to bend roses with rigid shoots, so access to them must be free and open, the area where they grow is sufficient for any manipulation with it (Read also article ⇒).
If the conditions do not meet these requirements, then the rose needs to be replanted.
Optimal deadlines for completing work
Professionals believe that planting and replanting large trees and shrubs is best done in winter. For this, special equipment is used. If it is not possible to use the manipulator, then use old method phased transfer of adults woody plants to another place. The older the rose, the more important it is to carry out the work consistently. Prepare the plant in the fall and plant in the spring.
The work is performed in this order:
- In autumn, after the leaves fall, the climbing rose is pruned. All shoots, without exception, are shortened to a height of 20-25 cm. (It looks as if the hybrid tea variety is being prepared for wintering).
- The bush is watered abundantly; you will need 30 - 40 liters of water. After this, the plant is left for 2 - 3 days so that the water moistens the roots to their full depth.
- The outline of the future coma is outlined around the rose. Its diameter is 30 - 50 cm, depending on the size of the bush. The older the rose, the larger the com.
Tip #1 . You should not form a lump that is too large if it is carried manually, without mechanical lifts.
- A ring-shaped trench is formed around the bush. It is filled with sand. Before the onset of frost, the bush produces new roots, which have time to grow stronger before the onset of cold weather. The root system is concentrated in the fertile layer, strengthening the lump, as if entangling it with a web.
- The ground part is hilled up. The shoots and ground around the bush are covered with leaves or covered with spruce branches to protect the bush from frost. In severe winters, the shelter needs to be strengthened. Apply different kinds spunbond. If this is not the case, you can use a natural remedy, shovel more snow.
Selection and preparation of a new seat
After the rose has been prepared, they begin to create optimal conditions for it in a new place. Replanting is a troublesome and difficult undertaking, so it is important to correctly determine the location in the garden in advance and provide the necessary conditions.
- In the garden, choose an open, well-lit area. Its area takes into account the maximum growth of the variety and the need for shelter for the winter.
- Provide protection from the wind, but at the same time exclude shading from tall plants and structures.
- The planting hole is being prepared.
The size of the pit should be twice the size of the coma, but not less than 0.5 m in diameter and depth.
If the land in a new place is poor, it needs to be replaced with imported land fertile soil. For roses you will need light or medium loam, neutral reaction and a humus content of 4% or higher. If it is not possible to deliver purchased soil, you need to optimize what is on the site.
Improving additives for sandy natural soil:
Tip #2 . Note! Phosphorite flour and tsepitat are used as phosphorus fertilizers, only for long-term soil preparation for planting and are not used in the current feeding of roses.
Optimization of heavy clay soils:
| Coarse sand | 2 – 3 buckets |
| Ground peat | 3 – 4 buckets |
| Rotted manure | 1 bucket |
| 1 part | |
| Phosphorus fertilizer, such as superphosphate | 40 – 60 g |
| Potassium salt | 20 – 30 g |
landing pit season with a fertile mixture and leave until spring. During this period, the soil will become compacted and nutrients will dissolve.
Step-by-step instructions for replanting a climbing rose
When the autumn work is done correctly, replanting in the spring is much easier.
| Step 1 | After the snow melts, free the rose bush from its shelter. Remove all protective material and clear the ground around the bush of plant debris. |
| Step 2 | Dig around the bush, removing the sand to expose the formed lump. |
| Step 3 | Using burlap or other durable but elastic material, wrap the sides of the ball in several layers and tie tightly with strong rope. |
| Step 4 | After this, use a shovel to carefully separate the bottom of the lump from the ground. |
| Step 5 | Carefully lifting the lump, place a strong cloth under it. When it is completely placed under the bush, two or four people use its ends to lift the rose out of the hole and carry it to a new planting site. |
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| Step 6 | In the planting hole, form a depression 2 times larger than the rose clump. The depth is such that the root collar is 5–8 cm below the edge of the planting hole. |
| Step 7 | Place the rose in the hole and remove the side winding. The burlap, which was used for carrying, does not need to be removed. It will not interfere with survival. If the bush was not moved plastic film or other non-decomposing material, it must be carefully removed from the bottom of the ball so as not to damage it. |
| Step 8 | The lump is sprinkled with fertile soil. |
| Step 9 | Form trunk circle and water it. You will need 30 - 40 liters of water. |
If everything is done correctly, after 3 - 4 weeks young shoots will appear on the rose.
Category: “Questions and answers”
Question No. 1.Until what age can climbing roses be replanted?
Theoretically, this can be done without restrictions. Roses can grow in one place for up to fifty years. In the practice of park construction, there have been cases when plants that were several decades old were moved because they were of historical value.
The period of biological flowering of a rose falls on the first 20 - 25 years. If the plant is older, then replanting does not make sense. It is better to buy a young climbing rose of the same variety.
Question No. 2. When is it better to replant a rose in spring or autumn?
Most gardeners are inclined to replant in spring with preliminary preparation.
roses in the fall of the previous year.
The condition of the transplanted rose depends on the quality of the prepared soil. You cannot plant a bush in a place where another rose grew before. There, the soil is depleted and infected with pathogens. Even if the bush takes root, it will not feel well in its new place.
You should not move the rose to the area where you have been fruit trees or raspberries. Just like roses, they belong to the Rosaceae family, so they have many common diseases.
Based on materials from the book “Secrets of Growing Roses.”
Academy of Sciences of Ukraine.
Roses are difficult to care for, so moving them to a new place or planting young shoots should be done according to the rules. It is best to transplant roses to another place in the fall, a month before the onset of frost. During this period, the plant is preparing for winter and will easily survive the move.
If you plan to transplant roses in the spring, then this must be done before the buds on the bush swell. In summer, it is worst to move the bush to a new place, so such manipulations are carried out only in extreme cases.
- V Middle Zone October is best;
- for the South of Russia, Moldova, Ukraine from October 15 to December 5;
- for colder ones: Moscow region, Ural - from the beginning of September for a month.
- 1 bucket of earth (forest);
- 1/2 bucket of humus;
- 1/2 bucket of sand;
- 1/4 bucket of clay;
- 1/2 bucket of peat;
- 1/2 bucket of turf soil (meadow);
- 1 cup bone meal;
- 1 glass of ash;
- 1 handful of superphosphate.
- bush roses are cut to 20 cm;
- standard - 1/3 of the length of the shoots;
- curly - 1/2.
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Transplanting roses in autumn
Rose bushes are whimsical, they require careful care, and replanting them requires following the rules in selecting soil, taking care of the root system and choosing the time of year to “move.”
Depending on the region of Russia, the time for replanting shrubs varies:
Important! At least a month must pass from the moment the bush is planted in a new place until the first frost begins.
Roses transplanted in the fall should produce young shoots and have time to take root in their new location before winter. Before the onset of cold weather, they are covered with dry leaves, peat or sawdust.
In the spring, after the onset of warmth, the transplanted plants build up the root system and form a crown of leaves. The shoots tolerate spring cold well and grow actively.
At autumn planting Roses moved to a new location will bloom at the same time as the rest of the bushes.
Moving bushes in spring
Spring replanting is carried out in the Moscow region from May 5 to 30, in the Middle Zone and warmer regions from April 20 and throughout May.
The main rule for planting adult rose bushes in the spring is stable warm weather and soil temperature more than +10. Replant roses until the buds swell.
It is necessary to replant bushes in the spring on a cloudy day or in the late afternoon.
In spring, transplanted bushes require careful care: the soil must be moderately moist at all times, and the bush itself must be shaded from the sun with light material or branches.
A bush planted in spring will first build up its root system, and only then will it direct its efforts to the development of shoots. It will bloom later and less abundantly than other bushes.
Is it possible to replant roses in summer?
In summer, the rose is replanted only if absolutely necessary. 2 hours before the start of work, the bush is watered abundantly. You need to move the plant on a cloudy day or in the evening.
For roses transplanted in summer, correct, moderate watering, as well as strong shading, are important. The plant should always be in partial shade, regardless of the time of day.
Such a rose bush will suffer for a long time and slowly grow its root system. At the same time, young shoots and new buds must be trimmed so that the plant takes root.
Sequence of shrub transplantation
In order for a rose to take root in a new place, you must follow the rules for digging up the bush, preparing the soil for planting and caring for the plant afterwards.
Compliance with all transplantation rules will significantly increase the plant’s chances of successful establishment in a new place in any warm season.
How to prepare the soil?
In the selected area, a planting hole should be prepared in advance. It is optimal to prepare the soil in the fall for spring planting or in the spring for autumn planting. If this is not possible, then it is correct to do the work 14 days before planting or, in extreme cases, 2-3 days.
The hole is made with dimensions of 60 X 60 cm and a depth of up to 80 cm. The larger the bush, the larger the prepared planting hole should be (+10-15 cm to the width of the root). The soil is removed from the hole layer by layer. The upper layer is mixed with humus or manure and placed at the bottom of the pit. The remaining soil can be used to make compost.
Next, fertile soil is poured into the planting site and mixed with humus or rotted compost. Then the soil is watered once a week. And when you need to plant roses, then upper layer lift and plant the bush.
If a planting hole is prepared immediately before planting, then a layer of humus is placed on the bottom, and bone meal, ash and superphosphate are added to the garden (forest) soil.
To fill the holes, it is advisable to use the following mixture:
The components must be mixed well and only then poured into the bottom of the hole.
Preparation of the bush
Before transplanting, roses are pruned, which will allow the bush to grow its root system when minimum costs for forcing stems. The degree of pruning depends on the type of bush:
For a successful transplant, you first need to carefully dig up the bush without damaging the root system.
The garden beauty can be replanted both in spring and autumn, however, in areas with cold winters, spring is the most preferable time for planting the plant in open ground. This especially applies to standard roses - planted in the spring, they will have time to prepare the root system over the summer and will not die in winter frosts.
Features of spring rose transplantation
Typically, the time of planting falls in April, when the cold has already subsided, but the first buds have not yet woken up and the plant is ready to spend its vital energy on confident rooting in a new place.
However, the gardener must prepare for this important procedure must be done in advance, three weeks to a month before the scheduled date of transplanting the rose bush.
Equipment for transplantation:
- tools (shovel, pitchfork, pruning shears, bucket, watering can);
- rags (burlap, natural fabric);
- spruce branches or screen for shading from the sun.
Fertilizers:
- Rotted manure (cow, horse or chicken), compost.
- Mineral fertilizers.
- Ash or lime, bone meal or egg shells.
- Nitrogen fertilizers.
The first thing you should worry about before transplanting a flower princess is choice suitable place for her new residence. Loving the warmth of the sun and open space, the rose feels great on southern slopes, protected from the cold wind.
At the same time, she does not like the proximity of buildings that create air stagnation. The rose is also picky about other plants located in the neighborhood, which must be taken into account when choosing a site for replanting.
Site preparation
Cluster melt water in spring and stagnant rainwater are detrimental to roses, so when preparing a place for transplantation, you need ensure good drainage and raise the area if groundwater lie close to the soil surface.
The soil before transplanting roses is prepared in advance. A layer of loose, organic-rich soil with a slightly acidic reaction is created no less than 40 cm deep.
To do this, mix soil and well-rotted manure or compost in equal parts, add a little ash or lime and bone meal. The resulting acidity level should be between pH 6.5 and 7.
Pit preparation method
The size of the hole or trench is made with a margin so that a lump of earth can freely fit into it, along with which the rose will be replanted. You can orient yourself by the crown of the plant - its projection onto the ground approximately corresponds to the area occupied by the root system.
The pit size is usually considered sufficient 60 cm wide and 45 cm deep. If it is not a hole that is being prepared, but a trench, then it is better to position it from north to south - this will improve the lighting for future plantings.
On sandy soils, the bottom of the hole is filled with a seven cm layer of clay so that the soil dries out less. For clayey areas, on the contrary, the bottom is covered with coarse sand and gravel, preventing waterlogging of the future residence of the rose bush. The prepared hole should be allowed to settle for 2-3 weeks, after which the intended rose bush can be transplanted into it.
Preparing the bush for transplantation
Having noticed the width of the crown of the rose chosen for transplantation, it is tied tightly so that the branches of the bush do not interfere with the work. To form a dense lump of earth around the roots, the plant is watered abundantly.
When the water is absorbed and compacts the soil, you can begin to dig in the bush around the previously planned root area. Grafted roses have a central tap root that extends deep into the ground.
Such a root you'll just have to cut it off. Ungrafted bushes are characterized by a superficial location of the root system, so this problem will not arise with them.
When a trench around the bush has been dug to a depth of 30–40 cm, you can remove the plant and lay it, along with a lump of earth, on previously prepared rags.
If the bush and the corresponding lump of earth are very large, tying with rags can be done as you dig a trench, carefully laying the fabric around the bush and, having secured the ground well with the material, remove the rose from the ground.
If the place where the rose is to be transplanted is far away and transporting the bush will take a long time, the fabric holding the earthen ball should be moisten regularly by spraying.
Transfer
So, the rose bush has been delivered to its new home and is ready for replanting. The fabric that keeps the earth from shedding can be removed, or it can be left if there is a fear that this procedure may damage the integrity of the earthen ball.
A hole prepared for plant transplantation, should be poured well, and, until the water is absorbed, install a rose bush in it, trying to maintain the same depth at which the rose grew in the same place. At this stage, you can add a root growth stimulant to the water.
In several stages, the rose is covered with earth and watered so that no voids form. Having compacted the soil around the new settlement contribute mineral fertilizers , retreating 15 cm from the shoots, and loosen the ground under the bush, but shallowly, no more than 10 cm. After this, water the rose again and mulch the ground around it.
If, when replanting a rose, it was not possible to preserve the earthen lump and it still crumbled, there is no need to panic, the plant will not die, only the replanting procedure will change.
Since the roots of the rose are exposed, it’s time to take the opportunity to inspect them and trim off the damaged ones. You can soak the roots for two hours in a solution that stimulates their growth, a product suitable for this variety.
An earthen mound is poured onto the bottom of the hole prepared for transplantation, over which the roots of the rose are distributed so that the root collar of the grafted rose is 3-5 cm below ground level.
When grafting, the bush is positioned towards the south, for a self-rooted rose - flush with ground level, and for a climbing rose, the root collar will have to be deepened by 10-15 cm.
Alternately adding water and soil, the plant is compacted, and when the hole is completely filled, it is trampled down so that the soil fits more tightly to the roots of the rose and does not contain air voids. Next, land water, loosen, fertilize and mulch in the same way as they do when replanting a rose along with a lump of earth.
The branches of the rose, tied to make it easier to replant the bush, should now be freed and brought into line with the root system, which inevitably received damage during manipulation.
The shoots are cut at a distance of approximately 25-30 cm from the root neck, making a cut above the outer bud. Cut out all broken and unripe stems, remove dried leaves. When pruning and forming a bush, they are guided by the characteristics inherent in this particular rose variety and recommendations for them.
Care after transplant
The first time after transplantation, for about a month, it is advisable to shade the plant, covering it from direct sunlight. To protect a rose that has weakened after transplantation from aphid invasion, it is sprayed solution copper sulfate
and some kind of pest control.
The first three to five days after transplantation, do not disturb the plant, allow it to come to its senses. After these days a rose start watering regularly, and after 10–12 days nitrogen fertilizers are applied.
In the first year after transplantation, if the rose bush is still weak, you will have to sacrifice flowering and remove all buds, in order to allow the plant to properly strengthen and develop the root system. It is recommended to replant the rose again no earlier than three years later.
Roses can be planted in spring, summer and autumn. However, planting in any of these periods has its own characteristics. This must be taken into account. Now we will talk about the rules of autumn planting.
Planting roses in autumn
In autumn, roses are planted from mid-September to mid-October. If you plant a little earlier, the bush will take root and the above-ground part will begin to actively grow, but the root system will noticeably lag behind in growth. This can even lead to the death of the plant in winter.
Where is the best place to plant? A place in the sun - perfect option, is also suitable for semi-shade (a place where the sun shines for several hours a day). Roses planted in the shade do not bloom well and will suffer endlessly.
After planting, the plants need to be watered.
Do not plant in low areas where water accumulates in the spring. The plants will certainly survive the summer, but will most likely die out in the winter. If there is simply no other place, then make a high bed.
Preparing seedlings for planting. Carefully examine the roots; if they are long, it is better to shorten them. But even short roots still need to be trimmed slightly. Just refresh the cut, then callus will form faster. The cut must be white If it's brown, it means the roots have started to die. You need to trim until the cut turns white.
The root collar of purchased seedlings is often wrapped in electrical tape - it must be removed.
Planting pits. Planting holes are prepared based on the size of the roots. If the soil is not particularly fertile, then pour a nutrient mixture consisting of sand, peat and turf soil in equal proportions into the hole. After this, there should be enough space left in the planting hole to accommodate the root system. The roots should be positioned freely and under no circumstances should they curl up.
At what depth to plant? The seedlings must be planted so that the root collar (grafting site) is in the ground at a depth of about 5 cm. With such planting, the cultivated variety will put out its additional roots, and the rosehip shoots will most likely not break through the layer of soil. You will then have less problems with wild shoots.
Landing. Place the seedling in the hole, straighten the roots and carefully fill it soil mixture. Form a watering hole and water well. It is necessary to water even if the soil is damp. After watering the soil landing hole it will compact and there will be no air voids around the roots, and this is very important.
When the water is absorbed, add soil if it has settled too much and cover the hole with some mulch.
Pruning the seedling after planting. This important point! At spring planting The seedlings are pruned, leaving only a few buds. When planting roses in the fall, the seedlings should not be pruned under any circumstances. After pruning, the plants begin to produce young shoots, and there is no time for them to ripen. With the onset of cold weather they will certainly die. Therefore, when planting in autumn, it is better to postpone pruning until spring.
The shoots of young seedlings are elastic, flexible, and when covered for the winter they are simply bent to the ground.
At what distance to plant roses?
Leave between the bushes:
- Tea - hybrid and floribunda roses 50 - 60 cm.
- English roses 70 - 80 cm.
- Climbing roses and large scrubs 1 - 1.5 m.
Autumn rose care
Autumn care for roses is preparing plants for the upcoming winter. Only healthy bushes with well-ripened shoots will successfully survive the winter. In order for the shoots to ripen well, it is necessary to exclude all factors that provoke the growth of young shoots. This is first of all: nitrogen fertilizing in the second half of summer and even more so in autumn, abundant watering, pruning shoots in early autumn.
Autumn pruning
Feeding. There is no need to feed roses in the fall. Apply the last feeding in August. It should only be phosphorus-potassium (without nitrogen). Phosphorus fertilizers promote root growth, and potassium fertilizers enhance the winter hardiness of plants, this is exactly what we need. In the store you can pick up special autumn fertilizers for roses, or you can use the old, proven ones: superphosphate, potassium salt, potassium chloride.
How to water. If autumn is rainy, you don’t have to water at all. In dry weather it is necessary to water, but moderately. In winter, plants should receive moisture recharge, especially if the shelter is “dry” in winter.
Transplanting bushes in autumn
The rose plant is quite unpretentious and easily tolerates transplantation, but you need to know the basic rules.
When is the best time to replant? Roses should be planted and replanted in the fall in September - October. Choose a cloudy day for this or start working in the late afternoon when it gets cooler.
The most important thing in replanting roses is to carefully dig up the bush, being careful not to damage the roots. Although, if the plant is already quite mature, this will be difficult to do. But even if some of the roots are damaged, this is not fatal for the rose; it will restore them quickly enough.
Start digging out the bush from all sides, gradually going deeper. Sooner or later you will reach a taproot that goes deep into the ground. You won’t be able to dig it up anyway; you’ll just have to chop it off.
After this, try to get the bush out of the hole without collapsing the earthen ball. To transport the plant to a new place, you can use a large bag or piece of film or tarpaulin, which is prepared in advance.
We transplant the rose to a new place. Let's prepare the planting hole a little larger size root system with an earthen lump. If the soil is poor, then dig a hole a little larger and add fertile soil there.
Transplanting roses.
When replanting, do not forget to deepen the root collar into the soil by 5 - 6 cm. If it was already deepened during the initial planting or you are replanting your own rooted rose, then plant the plants at the same level at which they grew.
The transplanted rose must be thoroughly watered and the hole mulched. Tie tall bushes to a driven stake, otherwise the wind may tilt the plant and then it will be difficult to level it. Postpone pruning until spring.
Autumn pruning of roses
For inexperienced gardeners, pruning roses is a real headache. They will approach the bush with pruning shears and spend a long, long time trying on what to cut.
In fact, this procedure is quite simple. You just need to understand what, why and when you need to trim. Not to remember, but to understand. Today we will talk about autumn pruning of roses.
So: roses generally don’t need autumn pruning. Roses are pruned in the fall only to make it easier to cover them for the winter. If it is possible to bend the bush to the ground, bend it and cover it. The main pruning will be done in the spring.
The only thing that must be done is to remove all young, unripe shoots. They cannot be left. Not only do they have no chance of surviving the winter, but they can also become a source of infection for the entire bush.
The situation is similar with leaves; they are also recommended to be cut, collected and burned. Of course, removing leaves from a hybrid tea rose is not difficult, but from a large climbing rose bush... I’m with climbing roses I never trimmed the leaves, I was always short on time and never had any problems. What you do is up to you.
The basic rule of autumn pruning: You can start pruning roses in the fall when at least the night temperature is below 0º.
Make the cuts oblique (so that water drains from them faster) and cover them with garden varnish.
Autumn pruning of hybrid tea and floribunda roses
This is what a pruned bush of hybrid tea roses should look like before covering it for the winter.
It is unlikely that it will be possible to bend adult bushes of such roses to the ground, so they are usually pruned in the fall. This is done very simply, all shoots are shortened to 25 - 30 cm. According to the rules, the cut must be made oblique and 0.5 cm above the bud located on outside shoot (the young shoot growing from this bud should not grow inside the bush, but to the side).
In the fall, you can forget about this rule and cut as you please. Over the winter, the tops of the shoots will freeze and dry out, and they will still have to be cut off again in the spring. Then everything must be done according to the rules.
In the photo you see what a pruned bush of hybrid tea roses should look like before covering it for the winter.
Pruning ground cover roses
These roses are the easiest to bend to the ground, so they do not need any pruning. Remove only faded flowers.
Park roses
This group of roses also does not need autumn pruning. Remove only old flowers and fruits.
Pruning climbing roses
Climbing roses bloom on the previous year's growth and therefore should not be heavily pruned. The bushes grow very large, with powerful shoots. For winter shelter, they must first be bent to the ground, and this is almost always very difficult to do. To make this task easier, in the fall you can cut out old, broken shoots and shoots growing “in the wrong direction” and interfering with the shelter.
Scrubs, English and standard roses
For all these roses in the fall, only unripe shoots, dry branches and old flowers are removed.
Cuttings of roses in autumn
An interesting video about autumn cuttings of roses:
Most rose lovers start cuttings in early summer. Someone is trying good results, someone not so much. Very often, failures are associated with increased summer temperatures. For rooting, 24 - 27 degrees Celsius is most suitable. And if it’s +35 outside, then what’s under the can or under the film in the greenhouse? It is quite difficult for a young plant to take root and survive in such conditions.
I want to talk about a method of cutting roses in the fall, which is devoid of this and many other disadvantages. Of course, the method is not new, but not everyone knows about it. Some people know, but do not use it, not particularly believing in its effectiveness, and the method is not only simple, but also effective.
Preparing the site for cuttings. If you have a greenhouse buried in the ground, then it is ideal for autumn cuttings of roses. You can dig a trench as deep as a shovel bayonet or a little deeper. If clay appears at the bottom of this trench, then dig a little more and fill it with earth mixed with sand.
One important condition: this trench or greenhouse should not be filled with water either in winter or in spring.
Preparation of cuttings. When you prune roses in the fall, cut cuttings about 20 cm long with 4 - 5 buds. The leaves are not needed, remove them immediately.
Planting cuttings. Stick the cuttings into the ground to a depth of 5 - 6 cm, so that two buds are in the ground and the rest are on the surface. Fill the greenhouse tightly with fallen leaves and cover with lutrasil. There is no need to do anything else until spring.
In the spring, make a film cover over the greenhouse, water it, ventilate it, and when you realize that the cuttings have taken root, gradually remove the film.
The second part of the video, what happened to the cuttings in the spring:
As you can see, autumn cuttings of roses are simpler than summer ones; endless spraying is not required, and in general, care is much easier.
At the end of the article I would like to say a few words about garden tools. First of all, about the pruning shears. When working with roses, we use this tool very often. First of all, it must be well sharpened and in good condition. A dull, loose pruner injures the plants and tests the gardener's nerves.
Now as in regular stores, and in online stores huge selection a variety of pruning shears for every taste. Women flower growers should pay attention to pruners with a ratchet mechanism. With its help, you can trim thick, dry branches with minimal effort and, just as importantly, the cut is even and smooth.
Secateurs with ratchet mechanism GRINDA 8-423033_z01
While you look at a photo of such a pruner, it’s simple Nice picture and only when you pick it up do you realize how convenient this tool is.
To avoid injuring your hands, work with gloves. Just not ordinary ones, but special ones for working with thorny plants.
LISTOK gloves for working with roses made of artificial leather.
In these gloves you will work calmly without fear of injuring your hands.
