DIY garage compressor 220. Do you know how to assemble an air compressor from scrap materials? Do it yourself

A compressor is an indispensable item in any garage. But buy good compressor not cheap. Craftsmen share their experience on how to assemble a compressor for a garage with your own hands from simple and affordable parts.

Air compressor - reliable assistant. Using a directed jet of compressed air, it is easy to clean your car from dust and increase the pressure in pneumatic tools for the garage.

With a stream of compressed air you can always perform high-quality painting individual parts or the entire car body.

The main requirement for good compressor operation is that the air must flow under uniform pressure and be free of dust and oil. If during painting there are such particles in the air supplied by the compressor, then the paint layer is applied unevenly.

A good factory-made compressor is not cheap, but can be used both for professional painting and for performing high-quality, effective airbrushing. Having studied the principles of operation of such a device, you can make a high-quality homemade one.

The principle is simple - compressed air under pressure is collected in a sealed container (receiver). The pressure in the container can be increased either mechanically (manually) or using automation. Constantly pumping up the pressure manually is inconvenient; automatic adjustment is easier to operate.

In compressors with automation, you only need to ensure that the oil in the pump is regularly changed to prevent rapid wear of rubbing parts.

A stream of compressed air flows through the fitting to to the desired device(for painting, for cleaning or for blowing out hoses).

How to make a simple compressor - detailed instructions

The simplest compressor can be easily made from a car inner tube. For simple repair work In a garage, such a simple compressor will do just fine.

We will need the following parts:

• We will use an old tube as a receiver; the tire does not need to be removed. The main thing is that it is airtight;
• the air blower in such a compressor will be a car pump with a pressure gauge;
• You will also need a nipple from the camera, a rubber repair kit and an awl.

The procedure for assembling a simple compressor in five minutes:

• Be sure to vulcanize the chamber if there is an air leak;
• now you need to install an additional nipple in the chamber, through which air will be supplied to the spray gun;
• the second native nipple of the chamber will serve as a safety valve to regulate pressure;
• We glue the nipple, seal it with gaskets and connect it to the spray gun.

Important. The nipple from the second nipple must be removed so that the air stream from the chamber is supplied to the spray gun freely.

All that remains is to adjust the required pressure in the receiver. This is done through trial and error. We paint the test surface and ensure that the paint applies evenly. We monitor the pressure gauge - during the process of applying paint, the pressure level should decrease smoothly, and not abruptly.

Using such a simple compressor, you can tint the body or individual parts, but for professional and convenient work you need a more advanced compressor - with automation.

Improved handy DIY compressor

How to make a compressor that will not be inferior to the best Russian and foreign analogues? You will need the following parts:

• regular pressure gauge;
• gearbox, be sure to choose a gearbox with a filter to prevent oil and moisture from getting inside the receiver;
• any relay for adjusting pressure indicators;
• fuel filter (for gasoline, not diesel);
• water connection for four outlets (internal diameter 3/4);
• Diameter adapters will be needed for sealed connections of parts;
• large automotive clamps;
• receiver;
• motor oil - you need a viscosity of at least 10W40, metal paint and an anti-rust additive;
• electric toggle switch;
• oil hose;
• a piece of thick board - this will be the base of the compressor;
• syringe;
• hardware for fastenings;
• silicone sealant and fumlent;
• wheels for furniture;
• filter for diesel engine.

Half of the components can be found in any garage.

Selecting an engine for a compressor

A good motor for our compressor is spare parts from an old Soviet refrigerator; it already has a start relay, this is very convenient, as it regulates the number of atmospheres in the receiver. You need an engine from an old unit (Dnepr, Donbass, Oka), imported models give lower pressure in atmospheres.

What should be done:

• The compressor needs to be cleaned, rust removed, lubricated with oil internal parts and paint the outside. There are three outlets on such a compressor - we find out where the supply is and where the outlet of the air stream is, mark it with a cross;
• One tube in older models is sealed, it needs to be carefully opened, this will be a hole for adding oil to the compressor.

Important. So that when sawing off the tip, chips do not fall inside the compressor.

• pour out the old used oil and fill in the same amount of semi-synthetic oil, it is convenient to pour oil into the compressor with a 2 ml syringe;
• We install a plug from the screw and seal it with fume tape;
• install an oil filter on the outlet pipe;
• We attach the compressor, compressed air cylinder and start relay to the board.

For compressed air, it is convenient to use a 10-liter tank from an old fire extinguisher; no more is needed. This cylinder can withstand pressure up to 15 MPa.

It is not necessary to buy a compressor for painting work or inflating wheels - you can make it yourself from used parts and assemblies removed from old equipment.

We will tell you about structures that are assembled from scrap materials.

In order to make a compressor from used parts and assemblies, you need to be well prepared: study the diagram, find it on the farm or buy some additional parts. Let's look at a few possible options for making your own air compressor.

Air compressor made from refrigerator and fire extinguisher parts

This unit operates almost silently. Let's look at the diagram of the future design and make a list of the necessary components and parts.

1 - tube for filling oil; 2 - starting relay; 3 - compressor; 4 - copper tubes; 5 - hoses; 6 - diesel filter; 7 - gasoline filter; 8 - air inlet; 9 - pressure switch; 10 - cross; 11 - safety valve; 12 - tee; 13 - receiver from a fire extinguisher; 14 - pressure reducer with pressure gauge; 15 - moisture-oil trap; 16 - air inlet

Necessary parts, materials and tools

The main elements taken are: a motor-compressor from a refrigerator (preferably made in the USSR) and a fire extinguisher cylinder, which will be used as a receiver. If they are not available, then you can look for a compressor from a non-working refrigerator at repair shops or at metal collection points. A fire extinguisher can be purchased on the secondary market or you can involve friends in the search, who at work may have written off fire extinguisher, fire extinguisher, fire extinguisher for 10 liters. The fire extinguisher cylinder must be emptied safely.

In addition you will need:

• pressure gauge (as for a pump, water heater);
• diesel filter;
• filter for a gasoline engine;
• pressure switch;
• electric toggle switch;
• pressure regulator (reducer) with pressure gauge;
• reinforced hose;
• water pipes, tees, adapters, fittings + clamps, hardware;
• materials for creating a frame - metal or wood + furniture wheels;
• safety valve (to relieve overpressure);
• self-closing air inlet (for connection, for example, to an airbrush).

Another viable receiver came from a tubeless car wheel. An extremely budget-friendly, although not very productive model.

Wheel receiver

We invite you to watch a video about this experience from the author of the design.

Household compressors for painting are available in large quantities in networks retail. Although it is worth saying that their price is quite high and depends on the manufacturer and its power.

Today we will tell you how to make a compressor for painting at home with your own hands. In this case, its price will not be significant, and instructions will also be provided in which you can look at photos and videos and do everything quickly and correctly.

We make it at home

First you need to do right choice compressor for painting. This will depend on the amount of work being done. If you use it for commercial purposes and make money from it, then it’s worth making it more powerful.

Attention: The higher the power of the compressor, the higher its price. But if you are painting cars or other non large structures, then it’s worth stopping at the middle power range.

What is needed and how it works

We will collect air compressor for painting, using a regular camera from vehicle/auto.

To assemble a homemade compressor we will need:

• Vehicle/auto camera. It will play the role of a receiver in our unit.
• A pump, it is better to use it with a device - a pressure gauge. His role will be to pump things up.
• Repair kit.
• Awl for comfortable work.

Now after preparing all the parts, we can start assembling the station:

• The first step is to check whether the chamber allows air to pass through, whether there are any holes or pores in it. We pump it up. If during the process we discovered depressurization of our facility, then we can stick patches on the right places, or treat the raw condition with rubber.
• The next step is to make a hole in the receiver. For these manipulations we will need an awl. Next, we put the nipple from the camera there, it will act as an outlet for the air stream when our device is operating.
• We attach and glue the optional fitting. It was precisely for this purpose that we initially prepared our repair complex. Then we attach the fitting itself. To make sure that the air leaves the container normally, you just need to unscrew the nipple.
• However, we will not touch the nipple itself installed on the chamber; its role will be to perform the function of a valve, as well as maintain the required level of pressure flow. To know the pressure volume, we have to spray the paint material onto the surface. If the enamel is applied to the metal in even layers, then our work is done correctly and at a high level.
• A pressure gauge can also help us determine the pressure level. Even after turning on the airbrush, the pressure should also be uniform.

The process of assembling a homemade compressor for painting is relatively simple and does not require special knowledge and skills, but its comfort and convenience begins to be felt immediately. It is much easier to carry out paint work using an airbrush than using a balloon.

Attention: To the last tips we can add that you need to carefully ensure that streams of dust or liquid do not enter the vehicle’s camera in any way.

If these elements still make their way there, you will have to prepare the paint for the job again. If the compressor operates correctly, it will serve for a long period of time, but if possible and desired, the air should be pumped in automatic mode, it is much more convenient and simpler.

We assemble the compressor with our own hands at a semi-professional level

It is possible to assemble such a unit, which in its properties will in no way be inferior to special compressors from leading developers. We will take a regular refrigerator as a basis.

To complete the work, you will need a number of spare parts and assemblies, namely: a receiver, a filter, various adapters, oil, switches and other parts, which we will get acquainted with later. Let's consider the operating principle of this unit.

• To make the process much simpler, the engine of our unit will be a compressor from a conventional refrigerator, which was produced in the Soviet Union. An undoubted advantage is the presence of an injection unit relay. Domestic refrigerators have a higher pressure level than their foreign counterparts, which is important advantage. After the block has been removed, it must be prepared for use; the corrosion layer must be cleaned.
• For such work we use a corrosion converter so that oxidation reactions stop taking place. This is how we produced preparatory work motor

Having made all the necessary preparatory measures, we can begin to change the oil. After all, if you don’t lie too much, then there’s almost no refrigeration unit behind long years continuous operation has never undergone an oil change. This solution justifies itself, since during these works our mechanism is fully protected from external air.

• To change the oil, we use semi-synthetic material. Its properties are no different from compressor oil and contains the additives we need.
• The second step is to find three tubes on our compressor, two of them will be in an open state, the second in a sealed state. In the operation of our installation, the first two tubes will serve to pump air into different sides(he will go in and out). To determine the move air masses, we need to turn on our injection unit to the network. Next, we carefully look at where the air is sucked in, and at what point it leaves our unit.
• The tube, which is sealed, will act as an oil changer. From here we have to get rid of the closed part of it. For such work, we can take a regular needle file and make a cut around the circumference of the tube. Please ensure that pieces of chips and metal dust do not end up inside the injection unit.
• Next, we break off the back part of the tube and drain the oil into a special container. This is done in order to determine the subsequent volume of the next pour. Using a syringe, we inject a small amount of new semi-synthetic oil.
• When new oil is introduced, it is important to turn off the entire engine lubrication mechanism. We must pick up the screw, having previously wrapped it with tape, and screw it into a tube. It must be remembered that there will sometimes be leakage from the back of this tube. a small amount of semi-synthetic oil. To avoid this, we need a special oil separator for work.
• Once we have successfully completed the previous assembly steps, we can proceed to the next steps in creating our blower setup. The work begins with mounting the engine with the relay on a wooden bed. This must be done in such a way that it is like on the frame.
• Such measures must be carried out, since the injection unit relay is very sensitive to its position in space. The actions must be precise, since the correct functioning of the compressor operating modes in the future will depend on the correct settings.

Air capacity

Where to get air capacity? For such purposes, we need a canister that is used in fire extinguishers. All this depends on the fact that they have high strength to the pressure exerted on them; they are ideal as a canopy.

So:

• As a basis, we take a fire extinguisher under the brand name OU-10. It has a ten-liter air volume and high level strength to the tested pressure. We unscrew the locking mechanism, then install the transition device.
• If you come across traces of rust, you need to get rid of it promptly. using a corrosion converter. We place the above liquid inside the can and begin to shake it.
• After the rust has been removed and there are almost no traces left, we attach the crosspiece. During this work, we created two important spare parts for the future injection unit.

We carry out the assembly

To ensure that the parts do not interfere with each other, they must be immediately installed on the base. To make it, we take a board; the engine of the future injection unit and parts of the fire extinguisher will be attached there.

• We use special threaded pins to install the engine on a wooden base. We insert the pins into the pre-made holes. Nuts will come in handy more than ever. You also need to drill a hole to mount the fire extinguisher. Other sheets are attached using self-tapping screws to our wooden base.
• We place the receiver on a vertical level; we will need three sheets of plywood for such purposes. Makes a hole in one plywood for attaching a spray can. We attach other sheets with self-tapping screws. We glue them to the receiver sheet.
• In advance, we hollow out a hole in the wood base for the receiver and its lower part. In the end, so that the installation can move, we will assemble ordinary wheels from ordinary furniture, which are attached to the base.
• Once we have completed the above collection work, we need to ensure the protective functions of our installation against dust flow. For these purposes, you will need a gasoline filter, which usually plays the role of coarse filtration. Its task is to become an air intake in our blower installation.
• Next we take the rubber hose and compressor tube. The compressor input level is low, it is important to remember this, i.e. We will not need to increase the contacting properties with the help of clamps.
• Those. We have already made an inlet filtration system for our compressor. At the outlet of the installation we attach an oil separator, which will protect the device from the penetration of parts of the dust flow. We will also need a power filtration mechanism. Since the pressure level at the output of the system is high, here we will need vehicle clamps.
• Now we have smoothly approached the oil separator filter. We put it into operation by connecting it to the input part of the gearbox. The gearbox serves for decoupling and the output part of the compressor, i.e. We screw the cross into the outlet part on the left, and on the right side we attach a pressure gauge (this is how we will monitor the pressure level). We attach a control relay to the top of the cross.
• The control relay allows you to adjust the level of discharge pressure height, as well as, if necessary, turn off the power supply to the compressor.
• With the help of these spare parts, we will turn on our injection unit if the pressure level is low and, on the contrary, turn it off if the parameters rise sharply.
• To adjust the level of recommended compressor pressure, you need to use relay springs, there are two of them. The largest spring is used to create pressure at a low level, the small spring for maximum pressure, it also serves to regulate the shutdown of the installation.
• PM5 were originally assembled for water supply; they are simple switches of two contacts. One contact in our version is designed to work in a network where the voltage is at a level of two hundred and twenty volts, while the other contact works to communicate with the injection unit.
• We provide power through a toggle switch to connect to the second input with the injection unit. If our circuit already has a toggle switch, we have the right to quickly turn off the system.

It goes without saying that all contacts should be in the right way sealed and insulated. Now we can paint our compressor with peace of mind and start trying to paint with it.

We monitor the system pressure

Now that our installation is ready, it's time to check how it works or run some tests. We connect an airbrush or spray gun. Without touching the toggle switch itself, we connect our system to electrical energy.

• We set the relay to the lowest possible pressure level and connect the injection unit to electricity. We look at the indicators and characteristics on the pressure gauge, monitor the level of supplied pressure. After we have found out that the relay turns off the compressor engine, we look at the contacts and their sealing properties.
• To determine the tightness, use a regular soap solution. If the entire installation has successfully passed all tests, then we must necessarily remove air below the level to start the entire blower mechanism. If the pressure level reaches the required limits, the relay starts the compressor system itself. If everything works as expected, we can begin the colorful work.
• To paint metal surfaces and foundations, initially there is no need to prepare the very foundation for the work. All we need to do is set the required pressure level on our injection unit.
• Such tests give us a chance to measure those necessary specifications, which will allow you to lay down layers of paint evenly. It is also necessary to remember that such painting work was carried out with a minimum of operation of the injection unit.

Instead of output

After completing all the above work and putting our injection unit into operation, we can sum up the first results. Thus, the process of assembling the compressor itself does not constitute special labor For all vehicle owners, special knowledge and skills are not needed here.

• It would be foolish not to say that the second type of compressor is much more complicated in terms of its assembly and the availability of the necessary spare parts and materials. However, due to the pressure in automatic mode and the special starting system of the entire injection unit, such a compressor is the most convenient and pleasant to use.
• Also, you will not need to monitor the receiver. This installation can also be used for painting indoor gates or other surfaces.

Attention: It is not difficult to make a compressor for painting yourself; it is also important to do regular maintenance. Especially often they fail due to failure to change the oil. Therefore, monitor its quality first.

You now know how to choose a compressor for painting and can do everything yourself. Pay attention to the tightness of the joints and then the compressor will serve you for a long time.

To paint a car, as a rule, a paint spraying device is used. This is an air compressor and a spray gun connected to it. If you are planning such equipment for your garage, you can make a compressor yourself or purchase a factory model.

It is quite obvious that buying a finished product is much easier. This entails less labor costs. However self-production- This is a significant financial saving. In addition, experts say that a homemade powerful electric compressor for a car with a relay and receiver can be much more efficient and durable than a serial product. Below we will tell you how to make a compressor for painting a car under 220V voltage yourself.

DIY compressor for painting cars

Obviously, for work we will need to collect certain materials. So, to assemble a homemade 220V air compressor for painting a car, we will need the following parts:

• pressure gauge;
• gearbox with oil and moisture protection filter;
• relay for pressure regulation;
• cleaning filter for gasoline engines;
• crosspiece for water with thread inside;
• threaded adapters;
• clamps;
• motor;
• receiver;
• engine oil;
• switch for 220V voltage;

Materials for a homemade compressor

• brass tubes;
• oil-resistant hose;
• wooden plank;
• syringe;
• rust remover;
• studs, nuts, washers;
• sealant, fum tape;
• enamel for metal;
• saw or file
• furniture wheels;
• diesel engine filter.

Compiling this list is not difficult. After we have collected everything we need, we can get to work.

Assembling the engine

We start work from the very beginning important element- an engine that will create the required amount of air pressure. Here we can use a motor from an unnecessary refrigerator.

Its device includes a relay, which will be needed in order to maintain a given air pressure. Experts say that old Soviet models make it possible to achieve more high pressure than new imported engines.

We remove the motor from the refrigerator, carefully clean it and treat it with a product to avoid oxidation of the housing. After this it will be ready for painting.

Removing the refrigerator motor

Now you need to change the oil in the engine. Semi-synthetic is quite suitable for this - it is no worse than motor oil and has a lot of useful additives.

The motor has 3 tubes: 1 closed and 2 open, through which air circulates. In order to determine the input and output channels, turn on the motor and remember where the air flows in and where it comes out from. The closed tube is used just for changing the oil. When working with a file, we make a cut in such a way as to avoid sawdust getting into the tube. We break the end, remove the oil and pour in a new one, using a syringe for this purpose.

To seal the channel after changing the oil, select a screw of a suitable cross-section, wrap sealing tape around it and screw it tightly into the tube.

We mount the motor together with the relay on a thick board, which will act as a foundation. We choose the position in which it was in the refrigerator. This is necessary because the start relay is extremely sensitive to how it is placed. As a rule, there are corresponding markings on it - adhere to correct location in order for the relay to work stably and correctly.

We mount the motor on the prepared board

Air tank - necessary element, which is necessarily included in the compressor device. It must be designed for a certain amount of pressure in order for the device to work correctly. We can use old containers from ten-liter fire extinguishers as a receiver - they are durable and airtight.

Instead of a start valve, we screw a threaded adapter onto the receiver - for tightness we use a special FUM tape. If the future receiver has pockets of rust, they must be removed by grinding and processing by special means. In order to eliminate pockets of corrosion inside, pour in the product and shake well. Then we install the water cross using sealant. We can assume that homemade receiver ready.

We use an old fire extinguisher as a reservoir for compressed air

Assembling the device

We attach the fire extinguisher receiver together with the motor to a base made of a thick board. We use nuts, washers and studs as fixing means. The receiver must be positioned vertically. To attach it, we take three plywood sheets, in one of them we make a hole for the cylinder. We attach the remaining two sheets to a wooden base and plywood sheet, which holds a homemade receiver. To the bottom wooden base We wind the wheels of furniture fittings for better maneuverability of the mechanism.

We put a rubber hose on the compressor inlet tube, to which we connect a cleaning filter for gasoline engines. Additional clamps will not be needed since the inlet air pressure is relatively low. To avoid the presence of moisture and oil particles in the air flow, we install an oil-moisture separating filter for diesel engines at the outlet. Here the pressure will already be quite high, so special clamps with screw fastenings should be used for additional fastening.

The diagram below shows how to assemble a homemade automobile compressor for painting a car.

Compressor diagram for car painting

Next, we connect a filter to remove oil and moisture to the input of the gearbox, which we will need to decouple the pressure in the engine and the cylinder. We make the connection via a water cross with the left or right side. On the opposite side of the cross we install a pressure gauge to monitor the pressure level in the cylinder. We mount a relay for adjustment on the upper end of the cross. All connections are sealed using sealant.

Using a relay, we can supply the pressure we need to the receiver, while ensuring stepwise operation of the mechanism. The relay is adjusted by two springs, one of which sets the upper pressure limit, and the second - the lower one. We connect one contact to the supercharger, the second is connected to the zero phase of the network. We connect the second network input of the supercharger via a toggle switch to the mains phase. The toggle switch will make it possible to turn the device on and off from the power supply without removing the plug from the outlet. We carry out soldering and insulate all electrical contacts. After painting, our homemade car compressor will be ready for testing.

Homemade compressor for painting a car

Testing and setting up a homemade compressor for painting cars

For testing, we connect a spray gun to the output. We put the toggle switch in the off position and turn on the plug electrical outlet. Set the relay regulator to the lowest value and turn on the toggle switch. For control we use a pressure gauge. We make sure that the relay regularly opens the network at the right moments. Using water with detergent We check how tight all hoses and connections are.

Next, we empty the container of compressed air - after the pressure drops to a certain level, the relay should turn on the motor. If everything works fine, you can try to use the device to paint a suitable object. We look at the quality and make sure that the device works stably and can be used to work on cars.

You can make a simple air compressor with which you can do painting work or inflate car tires with your own hands from scrap materials. A homemade compressor will work no worse than its factory-made counterparts, and the costs of its manufacture will be minimal.

You can make a mini compressor for connecting a spray gun or airbrush from car pump, improving it a little. Modernizing the compressor will increase its power (performance) and will consist of adapting it to a voltage of 220 V (instead of 12 V), connecting the device to the receiver and installing automation.

Adaptation of the device to 220 V voltage

To connect the car pump to a 220 V network, you will need to find some power supply (PSU), the output of which will be 12 V and the current strength suitable for the device.

Advice! A power supply from a computer is well suited for this purpose.

You can find out the current consumed by the device by looking at its nameplate. IN in this case The power supply from the PC (see figure above) will be quite sufficient in terms of current and voltage.

So, if you plug the electrical cord into your PC's power supply and turn it on, nothing will happen. This is explained by the fact that the power supply will not turn on until it receives a signal from the PC. To simulate turning on a PC, on the connector coming out of the power supply, you need insert the jumper. You will need to find among the many conductors one wire that is green and the other wire that is black, as shown in the following photo.

These wires can be cut and twisted, but it is better to short them with a jumper.

Since the car pump has plug for connecting to the car cigarette lighter, then you can cut it off and connect the device with the corresponding color wires from the power supply.

But it will be better if you buy a car cigarette lighter and connect it to the power supply, and connect the device itself using a standard plug.

There are 3 wires coming out of the cigarette lighter: red – “+”, black – “-” and yellow – “+”, intended for connecting the LED. Connect the conductors to the cigarette lighter, observing the polarity (see photo below).

If you insert the plug from the device into the cigarette lighter, you will get a 220 V electric air compressor, capable of not only inflating tires, but also working with an airbrush.

Connecting additional elements

To connect the device to the receiver, you need to assemble the structure shown in the diagram below.

This harness includes the following elements.

1. Cross, having all outputs with BP1/2. The marking means: “BP” - internal thread, “1/2” - thread diameter in inches.
2. Tee, has all outlets with HP1/2 (“HP” - external thread).
3. Valves in the amount of 2 pcs. (BP1/2 – BP1/2). Designed to block air movement in both directions. Double marking means that there is an internal thread on both sides of the valve.
4. . Designed to allow air to flow in one direction only. You can install a simple spring valve BP1/2 - BP1/2. If you plan to work with a pressure of 6-7 bar, then you need to select check valve, having no plastic parts.
   
   
5. Straight nipple, is an adapter with 2 external threads (HP1/2).
6. Adapter nipple HP1/2 – HP1/4. Allows you to change from one diameter external thread another.
7. Extension(60 mm) HP1/2 – HP1/2. This is the same nipple, only straight. That is, the thread at both ends has the same diameter.
8. Transitional coupling. It is an adapter from an internal thread of one diameter to an internal thread of another. In this case, from BP1/2 to BP1/8.
9. Tee, having all outputs already with HP1/8 thread.
10. Straight coupling VR1/8 – VR1/8. Has 2 identical internal threads.
11. Hose adapter HP1/8.
12. Pressure regulator (pressostat) with moisture-oil separator. The pressure switch allows you to maintain the air pressure in the receiver not lower than the minimum and not higher than the maximum permissible level. A moisture separator may not be installed if the unit will be used as a tire inflator. When using the unit for painting, installing a moisture-oil separator is a must.
    
    

    

    The above piping diagram assumes 2 outlet fittings: the first for venting air to the spray gun (airbrush), and the second for inflating tires.

13. Adapter nipple HP1/4 – HP1/8.
14. Futorka(HP1/4 – BP1/8), is an adapter from a larger external thread diameter to a smaller internal thread diameter.
15. Pressure gauges. These devices allow you to visually monitor the level of air pressure in the receiver and at the supply to the main line.

When assembling all elements it is necessary use thread sealant, for example, fum tape. Pressure gauges can be connected via cut-offs of high pressure hose. The latter should be pulled onto the adapters and secured with clamps.

Pressure gauges can be screwed directly onto the thread, without using hoses, if you do not need to display them on the front panel of the unit.

What the compressor piping looks like when assembled according to the diagram is shown in the following photo.

The receiver for an auto compressor can be made from metal pipe large diameter, welded on both sides, fire extinguisher or gas cylinder. If the compressor is supposed to work only with an airbrush, then a regular receiver can serve tubeless wheel from a passenger car.

Important! When selecting a container for the receiver, you should take into account the fact that the car pump can operate for no more than 10 minutes. continuously. Accordingly, the volume of the receiver should be small (about 20 liters) so that the device can raise the air pressure in it to the required level before 10 minutes have passed.

A simple version of the unit from a fire extinguisher/gas cylinder

Making a compressor with your own hands using a fire extinguisher or gas cylinder as a storage tank for air is quite simple. For example, the compressor unit itself, if you need to make a powerful unit, you can take from a Zilov compressor. But first it needs a little tweaking.

You should drill 2 holes in each connecting rod (assembled, together with the liners) and 1 hole in each connecting rod cap.

When the unit is operating, the oil in the crankcase will flow through these holes to the liners and reduce friction between them and the crankshaft.

If you take fire extinguisher for receiver, then you first need to remove all unnecessary parts from it, leaving only the container itself and the lid.

The cast iron lid should be threaded to ¼ inch. It is also necessary to place a rubber gasket under the cast iron lid, if it was not there, and tighten the lid, using fum tape to seal the threads.

The steps to connect all the strapping elements were described at the beginning of the article. But, since this unit is made from a ZIL 130 compressor, and is more powerful than the one previously considered, it will require the installation of a safety (emergency) valve. It will release excess pressure if for some reason the automation does not work.

You can also do gas cylinder compressor. But first you need to release the gas from the cylinder, and then tighten the valve. Next, you need to completely fill the cylinder with water to remove any remaining gas. The container should be rinsed with water several times and, if possible, dried. Usually installed under the cylinder gas burner and evaporate all moisture from the container.

A fitting is screwed into the hole where the valve was placed, and a crosspiece is screwed into it, to which the automation and the entire harness are attached. It is necessary to drill a hole in the lower part of the cylinder and weld a fitting to it to drain the condensate. You can install a regular water tap on the fitting.

For mounting on the engine receiver and compressor unit is being manufactured frame made of metal corner. The mounting bolts are first welded to the cylinder. The frame will be attached to them (see photo below).

Important! The engine for this unit should have a power of about 1.3 -2.2 kW.

You can also make your own compressor for inflating tires. from a chainsaw which cannot be repaired. The device is made from an engine, that is, from a piston block: the output hose is connected through a check valve instead of a spark plug, and the exhaust gas hole is closed. To rotate the crankshaft, you can use either an electric motor or a conventional electric drill.

An air compressor made from a refrigerator, or rather, from its unit, is the quietest. But you should know that such a device is not different high performance . With its help, you can only inflate car tires or work with an airbrush. For normal operation Various pneumatic tools (screwdriver, grinder, spray gun, etc.) will not have enough performance of this unit, even if you connect a large volume receiver to it. Although on the Internet you can find designs consisting of two or three compressors connected in series, connected to a large receiver.

So, the unit removed from the refrigerator has starting relay with power cord. There are also 3 copper tubes coming out of the device. Two of them are intended for air inlet and outlet, and the third (soldered) is for oil filling. If you turn on the device for a short time, you can determine which of the two tubes sucks in air and which one blows it out.

The following figure shows how to assemble the entire structure, consisting of a unit, a receiver and a pressure regulator with a pressure gauge.

Advice! Instead of an outlet filter, which sometimes bursts due to high pressure, it is better to install a moisture-oil separator. Its presence is mandatory if the device will be used for painting.

Installed on the inlet tube air filter to prevent dust from getting inside the unit. To automate the air pumping process, you can install automation in the form of a pressure switch.

DIY high pressure compressor

The high pressure compressor (HP) is made from two-stage compressor head AK-150.

As a drive you can take 380 V motor 4 kW. The rotation of the engine shaft is transmitted to the piston group shaft using an eccentric, which also serves as a drive for a plunger-type oil pump. It creates an oil pressure of about 2 kgf/cm2.

Compressed air, leaving the last stage, enters through an adapter with an installed pressure gauge into the fitting of a liter cylinder, which is installed in its lower part. A valve for draining condensate is also installed here. The cylinder is filled with polished glass chips and acts as a moisture-oil separator.

Air exits from the top of the cylinder through a finger fitting. Compressor cooling is aquatic. After 45 min. When the unit operates, the water heats up to 70 degrees. The author of this unit claims that during this time you can pump 1 8-liter cylinder and 2 4-liter cylinders to 260 atm.