A plastic tank is a convenient water reservoir that ensures the preservation of liquid parameters for a long time. It is not destroyed by moisture and is not prone to rust, but can be deformed under the influence of external factors. How to seal it plastic tank for water? The choice of method depends on the nature of the damage and the type of polymer.
Causes of deformation and nuances of repair
One of the reasons for damage to plastic water containers is improper installation. An uneven surface and the presence of sharp objects can lead to changes in the geometry of the tanks, the appearance of cracks and leaks. Deformation can also be caused by mechanical influences, including impacts during operation.Before sealing a plastic water tank, you need to know the composition of the material that was used to make it. Depending on the feedstock, the following types of polymers are distinguished:
- Polyethylene (PE-HD). It is characterized by a combination of hardness and ductility, which simplifies the processing of plastic. Polyethylene low pressure resistant to various organic and inorganic environments and retains its parameters at temperatures from -50..+80 °C.
- Polypropylene (PP-H). It is characterized by increased hardness, tensile strength and chemical resistance.
- Polyvinyl chloride (PVC-U). Withstands temperatures ranging from 0...+60 °C, as well as exposure to oxidizing environments and chemically aggressive substances. In addition, it has high strength and hardness.
Damage repair options
Restoring the integrity of polyethylene containers is complicated by the low adhesion coefficient of the material, due to which the surface rejects the epoxy resin, the composition for cold welding, adhesives and sealants.- From small crack You can get rid of it by sealing it with waterproofing bitumen tape.
- Another option is to repair the damage using a patch made from a piece of plastic and special modeling glue. The main thing is to thoroughly clean and degrease the surface.
How to seal a plastic polypropylene water tank
You can use fiberglass patches that are secured with molten polymer. To do this, the surface of the container at the site of damage is cleaned and heated with a hair dryer.Then they pour from the pistol liquid plastic and apply a piece of fiberglass of the required size.
To ensure a strong fixation, the repaired area of the tank is again heated with a hairdryer.
When choosing a method for restoring polymer containers, you should take into account the water pressure during their operation. It has a significant impact on the deformed area and can increase the size of the damage.
Restoring tanks using welding
One of effective ways Welding is used to eliminate deformations of plastic tanks. Its action is based on the ability of materials to transition from a solid to a viscous state under the influence of high temperatures.To repair plastic tanks, there must be no water in them.
The container is emptied of liquid, and the damaged area is cleaned and degreased. Then perform the following operations:
- heat the plastic in the deformed area, melting it to a certain depth; fill the crack with a heated rope or piece of polymer;
- cool and clean the resulting seam from excess plastic.
Tools and accessories
In everyday life, repairs of plastic water tanks made of various types of plastic are carried out using a soldering iron and a hair dryer. When purchasing these tools, you need to consider the following criteria:- Power. For a soldering iron it should be at least 100 W, and for a hair dryer - 1600 W.
- Maximum heating temperature.
It is advisable to give preference to soldering irons with a wooden handle, since due to the high temperature, the polymer can quickly melt.
The hair dryer should have several attachments and a smooth temperature control system, which will allow you to set the desired mode when working with different types plastic.
When welding, you will also need a polymer rod designed to reinforce the crack. Its quantity and diameter are selected depending on the size of the deformed area.
More significant damage is eliminated by fusing patches from a piece of plastic of a suitable composition.
Insert into bucket plastic bag.
The small size of the crack will prevent water from leaking through the bag. If the bucket is stationary, then this is the best method in terms of simplicity and implementation. This is how I repaired a plastic barrel. The instillation of molten polyethylene begins to proceed when deformed.
I haven’t tried to seal plastic buckets myself, but I have seen how it’s done. Take an ordinary plastic bag and, using a soldering iron, seal the crack with it, smearing it. You can also do this with a piece of plastic using a soldering iron. At the dacha they watered with such a bucket: the water did not leak.
Try sealing it using cold welding. If it holds water in the car radiator, then it will probably hold plastic. But I tried to melt it, but it doesn’t work, some of the plastics now being produced are incorrect))) You’ll excuse me, previous authors.
So, how to repair a hole or crack in a plastic bucket? I don’t know, what about soldering plastic, small holes in a plastic bucket can still be soldered somehow, but large cracks are unlikely to be done well. There are other options for how to seal a crack in a plastic bucket, I don’t deal with such nonsense myself, so I read it on the forum. To do this, you need to take some extra piece of plastic, then put it in some container (not a plastic one), fill it with acetone, close the lid and wait a little until the piece of plastic softens. Then add Moment glue and quickly seal everything.
And also, in special stores they sell liquid plastic in tubes, you can also use it to seal a crack in a plastic bucket or whatever you have...
Some advise applying epoxy glue to a degreased surface and fiberglass on top, and for reliability it is better to do this twice.
I would try to get help in this situation regular soldering iron! Carefully soldering the crack on both sides!) True, molten plastic would not have a very beneficial effect on the tip of this device!)
Hardware stores sell so-called welding for plastic products. The surface to be sealed must be cleaned of dust, degreased with alcohol and dried thoroughly. After this, prepare the welding: a small amount of Mix the mixture according to the instructions and apply to the crack with neat, precise strokes. Level the seam with a knife or spatula and allow time for shrinkage and drying. Do not deviate from the instructions, follow safety precautions and everything will work out as it should.
I had such a problem with a basin. A hole formed and I cauterized it with a soldering iron. The plastic melted and sealed the hole. It's been in service for 4 years now. I also repaired a bucket at the dacha. I simply covered the hole with chewed gum and smeared it across the bottom. All so-called repairs were done with outside vessels. Everything lasts for more than one year.
cold welding for plastic. Clean the surface from dust and dirt and dry. Mix the mixture for no more than 5-6 minutes with your fingers. It is better to wear gloves. Use a spatula to seal the seam in the bucket.
I once repaired a hole, quite a big one, in a plastic bucket using an old soldering iron. I selected a piece of plastic that was suitable in consistency and quality, and, heating it with a soldering iron, spread it over the hole, starting from the edges, gradually, allowing it to harden. The only problem is that overheated plastic becomes more fragile in this way. But for some time this was enough.
I think that if it’s just a crack that hasn’t yet opened up and turned into a hole, you can simply run a soldering iron along the crack from the inside and outside. This should be enough to ensure strength and restore tightness)
I tried sealing plastic products by melting and dripping onto the damage. Thus, it was impossible to seal anything. Then I just started soldering holes in the plastic with a soldering iron. This method can help seal the hole.
take a mesh from, say, a car speaker, cut it off required size slightly wider than the crack and solder it on the inside of the bucket so that the mesh is not soldered deeply by about 1-2 mm. solder a small piece of another plastic over that place, as if you flood this area and it will hold water, and you can sit upside down.
Since old, worn-out containers are most often used for watering, they can leak very quickly. But they can still be made suitable for storing water for many years if the hole is repaired.
To do this, a bucket or barrel that has leaked from rust can simply be sealed - just like a car wheel. First, the leaking metal barrel is emptied of water and dried in the sun. Then the rust is cleaned from the outside with emery cloth or a wire brush. This is done carefully so as not to widen the hole. Then a piece of rubber is cut out of an old car or bicycle tube and glued with Moment glue or other waterproof glue. And on the inside, for greater reliability, the hole is covered garden varnish, which cannot harm plants.
Let's resin
But if the hole is big, then better than a barrel tar. To do this, the rust is cleaned off with emery cloth or a wire brush and a layer of resin is applied to this area. Then you need to put a piece of durable material on the newly tarred hole and apply another layer of resin. When heated, it becomes viscous and adheres well to iron. It would be even better to thoroughly tar such a barrel on both sides.
For prevention, all iron buckets, even new ones, especially their bottoms from the inside along the seam, must be coated with garden varnish. This will significantly extend the life of the container.
Sealing with clay
A metal barrel with a very holey bottom can also serve as a reliable water reservoir in the garden for a long time. To do this, where it will stand, it is necessary to remove the turf and pour it into the formed recess. even layer fatty clay 8-10 cm thick.
Then you need to pour water on the clay and forcefully press the barrel into this damp layer. Then you need to pour clay onto the bottom of the barrel and tamp it down well too. Now you can safely use the resulting reliable water storage tank.
For plastic - silicone
If a plastic container is leaky, it can be repaired by sealing it with silicone adhesive-sealant. To do this, degrease the outside surface very well with ordinary dishwashing detergent. Then it must be thoroughly washed off and a thick layer of silicone adhesive-sealant applied to the surface.
After the silicone has eroded acetic acid, the repair site will look like a “welded” piece of rubber. By the way, this patch is very, very durable.
Without bottom and “tire”
Old body metal barrel without a bottom and lid can be successfully used as an oven for burning garbage on garden plot. In addition to this barrel, you need to make a metal grate from steel rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm, which are fastened with wire.
Then, on the prepared site, you need to install brick pillars 3-4 bricks high, put a grate on them, place a barrel on it and pour garbage on top of it. To “start” the stove, build a fire on the ground between the brick pillars under the grate. It quickly ignites the garbage in the barrel, which, due to the strong draft, burns so well that even green weeds burn.
And when the bottom of the barrel looks like a sieve, it can be turned over, and the garden “blast” furnace will work perfectly again.
Valery Grigorievich Shafransky, Ekaterinburg
Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:44
like this - provided that all the pieces are selected. Don’t suggest going to a car service center for bumpers - it’s very expensive and in general I want to try it myself
Ann 14-01-2010 11:49
I myself didn’t believe that it had burst plastic shelf from the refrigerator you can stupidly glue it with a hot-melt gun, and it continues to work perfectly. They just taped the seam and that’s it. Although in a good way it was necessary, of course, to take a mesh, even a window one, and “plaster” it with a layer of glue to make it stronger.
Well, of course you need to look at what kind of plastic, some stick just disgustingly, and some can be soldered with a hairdryer.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:55
When he comes to me, I'll take a look. Something appears very similar to a scoop green (blue, red) plastic bucket
Charnota 14-01-2010 12:13
How many pieces?
Sometimes epoxy on a fabric base works.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:17
I don't know yet
TAURUS 14-01-2010 12:22
Dichloroethane is a good adhesive...
How to turn an ordinary plastic bucket into a gorgeous basket
if you first dissolve part of this plastic in it... but provided that this plastic dissolves in this substance...
Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:32
All these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm curious - maybe they came up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Is the mesh brass?
alchemist 14-01-2010 12:40
When he comes to me, I'll take a look. Something appears very similar to a scoop green (blue, red) plastic bucket
buy a heat gun and apply heated glue through fiberglass or other reinforcement. Old buckets are made of polyethylene, everything will stick together.
alchemist 14-01-2010 12:42
Originally posted by Sportsist:
All these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm curious - maybe they came up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Is the mesh brass?
yes, how... stupidly you take this mosaic and pick up the nozzle - glue it right along the seam, it sets quickly, after assembling it, glue the mesh on the inside, fiberglass along the seams.
alchemist 14-01-2010 12:43
Forget about dichloroethane, if, as you said, the plastic is like a Soviet bucket, then there is a high probability of polyethylene, or polypropylene, and EDC will not take it.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 13:13
Dichloroethane most likely won’t work here... What is a heat gun? In my understanding, this is a Chinese piece of junk for 50 rubles, which spits hot-melt adhesive (hot-melt adhesive in rods)
alchemist 14-01-2010 13:18
yeah, that's it, the casing will be heavily loaded with heat? if yes, then there is dandyl heat-resistant compound
Sportsman 14-01-2010 14:49
How much heat does the casing on a boat motor have? 40-50 degrees, hardly more. You should try hot glue with mesh.
makarkharp 14-01-2010 15:24
I saw somewhere on motorcycle sites a comprehensive topic on gluing broken plastic, and it seems that it was even duplicated here... search, maybe you’ll find it.
alchemist 14-01-2010 15:25
then there is a supply, take rods from 160 and that’s it.
I have experience in repairing two FUCKING holes in the plastic of the radiator using Dandil compound, heat-resistant, black. It collapsed like a monolith, and endured the shaking blows with honor.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 17:26
from 160 what is it? Temperature? Price?
alchemist 14-01-2010 17:43
temperature, the price of a kilo of rods in Leroy Choate is about 110 rubles, extrostronk
Sportsman 15-01-2010 09:44
I don’t know what Leroy is, I’ll look at our radio stores to see what they have
op-tu-mat 15-01-2010 22:31
which one did you mean?
demon 15-01-2010 22:40
cyanoacrylate type Loctite 401
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DIY plastic bumper repair
Even the most experienced driver cannot be insured against damage to the bumper of your car. If not you, then you. If it can be resolved through the insurance company, good. If the insurance doesn’t work, then there are two options: trust the professionals (here, too, it often happens) and shell out a considerable amount, or repair the bumper yourself.
It all starts with assessing the damage. Usually a bumper is not very expensive, especially if you buy a Chinese analogue. If the bumper is damaged quite seriously, then restoring it is out of the question - it will cost more. Repair work It is advisable to restore a plastic bumper if there is a small crack or cracks, scratches, chips, dents, or if a replacement cannot be found at all.
Before repairs, it is advisable to remove the bumper for convenience. The entire restoration process, right down to painting, can be conveniently performed on a separate stand.
Procedure
— Remove the damaged bumper;
- Wash it well;
- Delete paintwork damaged area;
— Clean the outer and inner surface with a grip of 10-15 mm on the sides of the damage. The paint layer removed during cleaning must be at least 0.2 mm, since upper layer surfaces often change their properties during operation, which can affect the quality of our repair seam;
— Drill the ends of the cracks (this will prevent their further growth). This is the same as when repairing cracks and chips on the windshield with your own hands;
- Carry out the actual repairs - we will consider the methods below;
— Primer and painting will be required in most cases.
To repair a bumper with your own hands, you will need a minimum set of tools:
— Car hair dryer. This special device, in appearance and operating principle no different from a conventional hair dryer. The only difference is that the flow of hot air from such a hair dryer has more high temperature and may soften or melt the plastic.
— Soldering iron. You can use any soldering iron, preferably a more powerful one. Rosin and tin are not required, this is not the case.
— Metal mesh. These are sold in specialized stores. The mesh will allow you to hold pieces of plastic together. You can use an old air filter.
— Priming. A regular can of automotive primer will do just fine. If you have a compressor and a spray gun, then that's even better. Choose for yourself - it doesn’t matter.
— Putty. No matter how perfect you are at sealing the cracks, you will still need putty. The exception is if this place is not visible.
— Sandpaper. For rubbing putty numbers 40 and 80, and for rubbing primer already 800.
— Any rag. It will be needed when washing the bumper, and when working with a hairdryer, because straightening hot plastic with bare hands not always comfortable. It is also good to use gloves.
— A piece of an old bumper. It will be needed in exceptional cases when there is not enough plastic.
It may be advisable to buy a repair kit, which includes such items as sandpaper, various touch-up paints, and fillers. Such kits are not that expensive and may turn out to be cheaper than taking everything separately, since the kits use small packaging - why do you need a whole bottle of primer for a small crack? Also putty, etc.
Bumper repair
First, a high-quality inspection is carried out in good lighting. Determine how many cracks, scratches, chips and dents there are on your bumper. We immediately calculate the amount of mesh, putty and other Supplies. It is best to do this before purchasing consumables and missing tools.
Now let's carefully examine the inside of the bumper. There you need to find extruded (in some cases melted) information about the material of the product. Depending on the type of marking, the following conclusions can be drawn:
PP type designations (PPTV20 and analogues) – the bumper is made of propylene;
mark PUR – polyurethane bumper;
PAG 6 (GF, ABS) – designation of hard plastics.
But it is not full list materials from which car bumpers are made. You can also find parts made of fiberglass and similar carbon fibers, but markings are applied to them very rarely and the most that can be found is information about the manufacturer. But if your bumper is made of hard (thermosetting) plastic or carbon fiber, then repair plastic bumpers This type of repair is different from repairing products made from other materials.
Cracks.
If there is a crack on the bumper, then we will need a soldering iron and a mesh. Turn the bumper over so the wrong side is facing you and cut the mesh. It is worth making oblong pieces 2-3 centimeters wide and the cracks long in size. Bring the edges of the crack together and solder one end of the mesh. We need to drown it in plastic, but don’t get too carried away, you can just make a hole. After this, the end of the mesh should be covered with molten plastic. Next, in this way, we solder the entire crack.
Let's evaluate the outer side of the bumper. If everything is ideal there, then there is no need to do anything. Otherwise, we go through the mesh and along outside. The main thing is to hide the ends of the mesh so that nothing sticks out. When you sharpen the putty with sandpaper, you will regret the protruding mesh hairs.
Small cracks, instead of mesh, can be reinforced with staples from furniture stapler. The size of the paper clips should be chosen so that their legs do not pierce the body. If there are no suitable staples, then you can take others and shorten them to the desired length. Use tweezers when soldering fittings, this way you will protect yourself from burns.
We place the staples perpendicular to the seam at a distance of 1-2 cm along the entire length of the fracture. We also fuse barely visible cracks and branches. Otherwise, in the future, due to vibration, they will develop into splits. To protect the staples from corrosion, completely cover them with heated plastic, pulling it from adjacent areas. After you fuse the bumper along inside, the front surface should take its original shape.
If the cracks on the bumper are large or there are fasteners nearby (places where the bumper is attached to the body), since the nearby surface of the bumper often breaks, it is advisable to tighten the crack with screws before soldering. A fairly simple but very effective method is proposed.
We take a hanger - it’s exactly called a “metal hanger for attaching guides”, these are available in any hardware store. We need it to tighten the crack with screws.
We cut it with a hacksaw or a grinder as shown in the photo, depending on the type of crack in the bumper. Usually parts 1 or 2 are used - the holes used are painted blue. Although it happens that when two cracks come together, piece of iron No. 3 is used. Below is an example of the location of the plates on a bumper crack.
In the figure, the working holes for the bolts are shown in blue. We drill holes in the bumper for screws, with reverse side We place the plate, insert a screw into the holes and secure the entire structure with nuts.
If you are repairing a bumper for the first time, then be sure to carry out this procedure from the inside (and it’s better not the first time either).
Place a plate on the crack. Through the holes in the plate, drill holes in the bumper with a drill with a diameter of 3.6 to 3.8 mm. Drill so that the drill bit is closer to the outer edge of the plate hole.
the drilled hole in the bumper must be countersinked so that the screw head “sinks” into the bumper. If there is no countersink, you can use a drill instead, with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the screw head. When countersinking, do not overdo it, do not countersink right through! But you also don’t need to make the hole too small. And one more thing - you can countersink manually, just with your hand, make a couple of turns with a large drill in the hole drilled for the screw - and desired angle ready for the hat.
We check the quality of the soldering. Stagger around the crack after it dries.
How to repair a barrel, flask, bucket, watering can, canister
If everything is flimsy, you will have to resolder it. However, this cannot be allowed; everything must be done for sure. After healing the crack, the surface of the bumper should also be degreased and covered with fiberglass and then putty.
Dents
If the dent turns out without a scratch, that is, the paintwork remains intact, you are very lucky. You can straighten it in minutes. This will complete the restoration of the bumper. All you need to do is wet a regular rag, turn on the hairdryer and heat the dent on the back side. They usually warm up for no more than thirty seconds. Then we reel damp cloth onto your fist and begin to bend the plastic back. We do everything carefully and without using much force. The main thing is not to push everything out. You can do several approaches with a break of ten minutes, allowing the plastic to cool.
In the case where, in addition to the dent, there is also a crack, we perform the same actions, but with the expectation of further puttying and painting the surface.
Chips and scratches
You can fight them with sandpaper. We take the largest one (number 40) and start rubbing. It is necessary to sharpen the pits, turning everything into a more or less flat surface. The hole, in fact, increases in diameter, but loses in depth. Then we will fill this depth with putty. It is advisable to use body bars if available, but you can also rub with the palm of your hand.
Detailed instructions for removing chips and scratches on a car - for those who need it.
A good result is obtained by using liquid plastic that matches your type of plastic on the bumper. Be sure to consult with the seller, first writing down the type of material of your bumper.
Apply masking tape (preferably self-adhesive fiberglass tape) to the front surface of the bumper. Mix the adhesive and thickener on the cardboard. Apply the resulting mixture onto the masking tape. This is done to level the surface of the bumper. Next, the masking tape is removed, and the surface is again cleaned and sanded. Liquid plastic is applied to this place. After the plastic has hardened, you need to sand the surface.
Putty
Let's prepare the putty by adding a hardener to it. After this, we will immediately apply to the place of dents (if the paintwork is damaged), cracks, scratches or chips. This is done naturally after the above-mentioned measures to eliminate breakdowns.
You should wait ten minutes before starting work. Let's take it sandpaper number 80. Using movements directed towards the left and right edges of the bumper, begins to rub in the putty. Sooner or later you will come to the desired result. Of course, you should respect the geometry of the body if the breakdown appears in some not very convenient place. You can apply several additional layers of putty to make the surface more even.
We prime
Let's take a rubber rag, wash the bumper and let it dry. Last time Let's check the result. If you are happy with everything, then you can start priming. We take the cans or turn on the compressor. You need to apply the primer with movements directed, again, towards the left and right edges of the bumper. Basically, you need to draw a horizontal line when spraying.
Let the soil dry completely. After this, you will need to take eight-hundredth sandpaper and wash it thoroughly. This is done with a bottle of water. No matter how local the damage is, the entire bumper is completely washed out. It should become matte after drying. And the first layer of primer will be completely washed away, leaving only gray dots in the marks and pores on the putty.
Let's apply another layer of primer, which we will also wash off. Check the evenness of the surface under the lamp. There should be no small pores or marks left. The surface at this stage should be perfectly flat.
Now the bumper is completely ready for painting. We advise you to paint everything as soon as possible.
Repair of plastic bumpers made of thermosetting plastics and fiberglass
On the one hand, this method does not require great skills and abilities from you, but on the other hand, you must strictly follow all the instructions. Only in this case can you achieve a good result.
Procedure for carrying out repairs:
we combine the cracked parts, fix them with any quick-drying glue;
prepare the epoxy resin for further use;
take a brush and coat the area of the crack ranging from 5 cm wide from the inside of the bumper;
soak epoxy resin fiberglass mat and lay it on the prepared area. If such material is not available, the mesh used to seal plasterboard joints may be suitable. In the latter case, you will have to apply another layer of epoxy.
It should be noted that during this procedure it is necessary to repeatedly apply fiberglass layer by layer so that the approximate thickness of the glued patch corresponds to the thickness of the bumper in this area. The front side of the product remains unglued. The putty used to hide solder marks and other irregularities must be designed specifically for plastic in any case. Next, you should paint the finished bumper and screw it into place. If you believe the statistics and try the method in practice, then in subsequent operation, if cracks appear on it, then in some other place, but definitely not in the place of the seam we sealed.
In any case, you should not forget that the bumper is, first of all, the face of the car and requires proper care and timely repairs. Will this be do-it-yourself repair or repairing a bumper at a car service center - it’s up to you.
I haven’t tried to seal plastic buckets myself, but I have seen how it’s done. 5. The neck is glued to the bath using hot glue. We trim the edges of the holes slightly with a drill of a larger diameter; there should be no burrs! 4. In the intended circle, drill 5-7 drain holes with a diameter of 4-5 millimeters.
ATTENTION! Washcloths and sponges need to be changed quite often, especially if they have lost their integrity and begun to crumble. Please note: Bathing a child in a large shared bath You can only pre-treat its surface with soda, baby soap or special detergents. Suction cup accessories must be secured before the bath is filled with water.
How to seal a plastic container?(+)Yesterday
Water getting under them and detergents reduces the reliability of fixation.
This steel structure, adjustable in height at which the bath is installed.
In the design of the bathtub, the factor of its stability is important.
This position makes it easier to pass gas and makes colic pain easier to bear. The product meets all safety and hygiene requirements.
Microban is not released into the water and does not lose its properties over time.
The material of the product contains the Microban additive, which disinfects the water when bathing.
If the bath is stationary, then there should be anti-slip pads on the legs. The accessory provides the baby with soft support and prevents him from slipping. The sponge bath shape has a profile that matches the anatomical contours of the child. Its shape includes supports between the legs and under the arms. The anatomical slide is attached to the bathtub with suction cups. A hanging hammock, made of fine mesh, is hung over the bottom of the bath using hooks.
It is a removable stand that fixes the child’s position and makes bathing safe and comfortable.
What to consider when choosing a bath for a newborn
The anatomical bathtub has a built-in support slide inside that follows the contours of the child’s body, so he feels more confident while bathing. Armed with knowledge about the types and properties of baby baths and additional items for them, you will make right choice at the time of buying. To fall asleep faster, it is recommended to give your baby a general massage; you can watch a video tutorial in this publication.
This allows you to fix the baby in a comfortable position.
Very comfortable for newborns.
The built-in drain increases convenience. It allows you to quickly and easily change the water during bathing without disturbing your baby.
The bath should not be too small so that the baby can use it for at least six months.
It’s strange that almost all the accessories are mentioned here, but they forgot about swimming circles - this is about swimming in the bathroom. And when the baby grows up, you can bathe him in a spacious shared bath, and leave the nursery for future offspring. Swimming slide.
Therefore everything is available.
In some models, the stops are adjustable to suit the child's height. After use, it folds up compactly. Buying these items separately will cost less. But you can become the owner of things that you personally do not need.
Buckets, basins, barrels and other household equipment are made of plastic. This material is practical, easy to use, but short-lived.
Any fall or mechanical impact can lead to cracks. And the container that allows water to pass through becomes useless. But seal a plastic water container It is quite possible that it will serve properly for some time.
It is quite possible to seal a plastic barrel at home. Let's consider two options for how to eliminate gaps in plastic barrels and other containers.
Option 1
To work you will need following materials and tools:
- stainless steel mesh (you can take aluminum or copper),
- scissors,
- soldering iron 100 watt.
Operating procedure:
- Cut off a piece of mesh with scissors.
- We fix the mesh at the site of damage to the depth of the mesh thickness.
- Align it along the seam, moving along the entire plane. At the same time, we solder the mesh in parallel with a soldering iron, hold the free edge with a knife, and immediately after soldering we cool it with a heat exchanger (knife) - this important rule so that the mesh does not bristle.
- Using this method, we insert the entire mesh into the seam.
- At the end of the work, the seam is completely sealed and reinforced, which gives it strength.
- We repeat the procedure on the back of the container.
VIDEO INSTRUCTION
Option 2
If you need to repair a container whose water is under pressure, you can resort to another method.
To work you will need:
- patch made of flexible plastic,
- construction hair dryer,
- protective gloves.
Operating procedure:
- We wipe the damaged area and remove dirt.
- We start heating with a hairdryer at low power so as not to burn a hole or a defective area.
- We heat the patch with a hairdryer on the side that will be adjacent to the crack. We are already heating at a higher power.
- Apply the patch to the damaged area and continue heating it with a hairdryer, adding more power. You must wear protective gloves on your hands to avoid getting burned. It is important not to overheat the surface.
- Smooth the patch with your fingers and wait for it to cool. We pour water and check the quality of work.
Final sealing and smoothing of irregularities on the repaired plastic tank The first method has proven to be the most effective in practice. The second one is more suitable as a temporary measure.
How to seal a plastic tank or water barrel - choosing an epoxy discount
If the defect is plastic container small, you can use epoxy glue. Two-component epoxy adhesive will help effectively solve the problem of a leaky plastic tank.
It is characterized by increased resistance to moisture and chemicals, polymerizes in just 1 hour, non-flammable.
It is necessary to cut off the required amount of glue, knead clean hands until a homogeneous mass is obtained, fashion a cone out of it and insert it into the hole in the tank. Fix securely for a few minutes.
Then you need to wait 2 hours, after which the container can be used.
Features of epoxy adhesive “Contact”:
- restores the shape of products and also hermetically fills voids,
- is not afraid not only of water, but also of oils, solvents,
- the repaired tank can be used at temperatures from -40C to +150C,
- within 3-5 minutes the glue can be corrected, and after an hour it can be cleaned, ground and subjected to other mechanical stress,
- The glue is sold ready for use.
The cost of this composition is from 150 rubles per package of 50 g.
They also have similar properties adhesives "General Purpos Permapoxy PERMATEX"(from 314 rubles for 25 ml) and “Plastic Weld Permapoxy PERMATEX” (from 320 rubles for 25 ml).
You can purchase epoxy adhesives in most construction stores, as well as via the Internet.
