We build a bathhouse with our own hands - a step-by-step construction demonstration. What and how to build a simple bathhouse in the country? What is needed to build a bathhouse

Hello, dear site visitors! We continue the series of articles from our readers. In this article, the author shares personal experience on how to build a log sauna with your own hands. The construction is not finished yet, so we wish him success! If you have recommendations or questions for the author, you are welcome to comment.

Part 1. Foundation

To build the bathhouse, I chose a relatively flat area with a slope of 20 cm on a six-meter section. First of all, after preliminary marking, I cut off the fertile layer over the entire area of ​​the future foundation. This is required to eliminate the processes of decay of plant residues and other organic matter in the basement.

The area is dominated by sandy soil, That's why the best option will be 50 cm high from the base and 40 cm wide. The foundation contour is marked with ropes that are attached to the improvised corners of the internal and external perimeter. To mark the perimeter, I took scraps of boards about 70 cm long and drove them into the ground, and screwed horizontal shelves on top with self-tapping screws with protruding screws for attaching the rope. It is better to choose a rope that is not prone to stretching; it will be easier to work with.

In addition to the lengths of the sides of the future foundation, the diagonals between the corners must be verified, which must be equal to each other with a tolerance of plus/minus 3-4 cm. You can read more about the methods of marking the foundation in this article. We continue to remove the fertile layer and dig a trench to create a sand cushion.

As a result, we get a fully prepared “pit”, where the bottom of the trenches is almost horizontal (we check it with a building level). The depth of the trenches is 20 cm, from the soil level in the highest place of the site 40 cm, in the lowest - 30 cm.

The dimensions of the foundation are determined by the center of the intersection of the logs. This will be the center line. If the diameter of the logs is about 20-22 cm, then we retreat 15-20 cm in both directions from the center line. This will be required to obtain “shelves” for attaching floor joists and rain tides. In addition, the mistake is practically eliminated when logs, due to miscalculations in the foundation, fall outward or inward, “hanging” in the air.

The bathhouse is connected to the strip foundation to eliminate multidirectional shifts of the bathhouse and stove. The size of the stove platform was chosen as 120*120 cm, as the average size for installing metal stoves under brick lining.

We begin laying sand in the trenches. At the same time, we moisten the sand and compact it. We pour water until puddles appear, after the moisture is absorbed, we begin to tamp. The process is repeated 3-4 times until your shoes leave no marks on the compacted surface of the sand.

A day later, after finishing the work, we once again go through the entire base under the foundation with a tamper. Of course, you can use a simpler option and connect a tamping machine to the work; this will speed up the process slightly. I have the simplest option: a 100 mm beam, a 20x20 mm sole and a handle. The appearance of the finished base and manual tamper is shown below.

We pour a sand cushion on top of the prepared site under the foundation to level the horizon and raise the site above the level of the site to prevent water from getting under the foundation.

If you hire a concrete truck, take care to additionally strengthen the formwork with diagonal stops outside and inside the proposed foundation. The pressure that is created when supplying the mixture is not enough to carry robust construction. The same applies to pouring the mixture from a concrete mixer. Only in this case you need to strengthen the place where you will drain or simply move the concrete mixer around the perimeter.

It is better to pour the entire volume of concrete at one time, so as not to get the effect of a layered pie. We cover the top of the foundation with a film that keeps our foundation moist to avoid cracks in the concrete. We periodically water the foundation with water, not allowing it to dry out.

After 7-10 days, we remove the formwork, unscrewing the screws, which will also be used in subsequent stages. The finished foundation looks like this. Layout: 2x6 meters – veranda; 4x4 meters – rest room; 2x2 meters – washing room; 2x2 meters - steam room. Location ventilation holes approximately 20 cm from the soil level; if necessary, you can buy plugs to close the holes in winter.

The approximate quantity and price of materials used in the construction of the foundation are indicated in the table below.

Part 2. Installation of log house and roof

For dressing a log frame 6x4 meters and log veranda you will need 25 bags of moss. When purchasing, make sure that the bag of compacted moss weighs approximately 20 kg. The moss must be elastic, that is, have optimal humidity.

We use “cuckoo flax,” which we collect in late autumn, when all living creatures go to “winter” in the soil and there is no risk of catching a snake with a bunch of moss. Allowed a small amount of sphagnum moss, which is shorter and crumbles when dried. If you completely use only sphagnum, then after a while it will simply fall out of the grooves.

The length of the moss strands should be at least 30 cm, so that when caulking, you can curl the ends and ensure sealing of the grooves. When drying, we sort the material, selecting twigs, foreign plants and cones. By the way, if a cone falls into a groove, then at a certain humidity it opens with such force, which is enough to lift the log and create a “cold bridge”. This is what log installers did in the old days, and even now this situation is not uncommon if the owner “offends” with money.

We install rolling logs. I have a small gap between the foundation and the log house, so I used half a log on one side and a 100 mm beam on the other.

We break through the place where the log comes into contact with the roofing felt with moss.

Mistakes were discovered that were caused by the reluctance of the hewers to do their work efficiently. The grooves were cut using a chainsaw, which made the gaps in the logs very large. Look, the edges of the grooves fit tightly to the body of the log, but in fact there is emptiness inside. Because of this, the amount of moss that will be used for caulking increases greatly. And this is if you do the caulking yourself, and the “shabashniks” only do the external treatment, no one will pierce the insides.

Material	Volume/quantity	Price
Edged fence board “inch” for sheathing, 300 mm	1 m 3	4500 rubles
Wood screws 50 mm	2 kg	300 rubles
Moss	25 bags	6250 rubles
Log house	1 piece	72,000 rubles
Board 50*150 six-meter	14 pieces	3600 rubles
Metal tiles, thickness 0.5 mm, length 4.2 meters (additionally ridge and wind protection)	12 sheets	31,000 rubles
Steam-Wind insulation	1 roll	800 rubles
Tongue board 20 mm	1 m 3	8500 rubles
"Belinka" base	2.5 liters	400 rubles
"Belinka" glaze composition	2.5 liters	600 rubles
Total:		127950 rubles

Part 3. Caulking of a log house

The simplest, but tedious job of caulking a log house. We use a mallet, iron and wooden caulking. The iron one has a blade thickness of 3 mm and a width of 50 mm, the wooden one is made from hard wood (I have dry birch) and is a consumable material.

Initial view of the groove.

We tuck the moss into the groove with a construction trowel. Previously I used a spatula, but it quickly failed and was not so elastic. Feel free to hammer the groove completely. There is an opinion among ordinary people that there is no need to make the seams tight and uniform, they say, the temperature in the bathhouse is enough to compensate for the losses. But judge for yourself, drafts in the steam room and washing room will not add comfort and the consumption of firewood will be 2-3 times higher.

We hammer the resulting roller with wooden caulk.

If necessary, if the groove is not tight enough, we make another roller of moss and punch it until we feel the hardness of the wood when struck with iron caulk.

Final view of the caulked groove.

To prevent birds from dragging moss and for aesthetics, we close the groove with a 100 mm wide jute tape, which will subsequently be treated with impregnation and a glazing compound to match the color of the log. Special “craftsmen” place logs only on jute or flax, but this is unacceptable for a bathhouse. If we have constant humidity in our house, then steam generation is encouraged in the bathhouse. Flax and jute absorb moisture, but do not dry out for a long time, the grooves rot and mold.

We receive logs prepared for grinding.

We caulk the corners especially carefully to prevent cold air from entering the bathhouse. Work, if you don’t hire specialists, will be in vain. When attracting "shabashniks" - from 70 to 150 rubles per linear meter.

Part 4. Sanding logs

So, the caulking is completed, the moss is tucked in and compacted in the grooves, we begin to prepare the log house for painting. Currently, the logs look very unpresentable - plane marks, chips and pulled out chips. In addition, the logs are heavily “tanned” in the sun and under the influence of slanting rains, and some of the knots require removal and sealing with mastic.

The ends of logs that were damaged during storage and transportation also require processing. Here the wood is the loosest, and therefore there is a high probability of rotting and further destruction of the log.

Tools for grinding logs:

• Bulgarian;
• flap sanding wheel;
• soft mop brush;
• putty knife.

The grinder used was the cheapest - 1200 rubles, made in China. It is worth noting that it passed all the tests with honor and remained operational even after passing 70 square meters of walls (we add to this the semicircular profile of the log). The only inconvenience is cleaning the stator, rotor and the inside of the angle grinder from wood dust. Of course, you can put a stocking on the instrument, but the incoming air is not enough for cooling. By the way, the work is very dusty and immediately stock up on glasses, closed on all sides, and respiratory protection - a respirator is enough. Working with an angle grinder requires utmost attention. High speeds and a removed protection cover can play a cruel joke on you. All you have to do is lose your vigilance and approach the grinding wheel too quickly, and you are guaranteed to get injured. I walked over the same place on my hand twice - the glove was in shreds and the skin was torn to the flesh.

The grinding wheel was used with 80 grit. After testing and selection, I settled on this value - 60 grit leaves too noticeable marks, and 100 grit clogs very quickly. The approximate consumption of petal circles is 1 piece per 3 square meters. You can continue to use the circle, but the pace of work will slow down and you will simply get tired.

Attention, bonus! I accidentally discovered that if you walk in a circle clogged with dust and resin on the concrete foundation, then sandpaper is cleaned and the circle is ready for use again.

If you don't have the skill and work with caution, you can sand 6-10 squares of wall in a day. The prices of the “shabashniks” fluctuate between 400-500 rubles per square and plus they do not stand on ceremony with spending circles. Pay attention to the resin pockets. If you expose such an area, then treat it with a solvent, otherwise this resin will then appear even through a layer of paint.

I started working from the smallest wall, the logs are transformed before my eyes. I encountered a problem that when processing grooves, the edge of the grinding wheel leaves cuts on bottom log. But with further processing, the cuts are ground off well and no marks remain.

There is especially a lot of fuss with the corners, the high speed of the grinder and the tightness slow down the process. Where the circle is not enough, you will have to switch to a slower processing method - a chisel.

When grinding wheel Almost “sat down”, we pass the ends of the logs. It is irrational to use a new circle for the ends - you will have to throw it over a dozen logs.

We seal the ends with wood mastic. At first I used the color “pine”, but then I realized that it was more economical to use White color, since it will be painted under it.

After sanding, the interesting structure of the wood appears, with intricate patterns running throughout the log. Knots and unevenness of the log add a certain fundamentality to the log bathhouse, and I was even glad when I came across particularly knotty specimens.

To get an idea of ​​what the wall would look like after painting, I stopped and prepped the logs. Based on all the combined criteria (quality and price), I chose the composition under the Belinka brand. I pre-treated it with Base, which had a drying time of 24 hours, and passed over the polished surface with the first layer of glaze composition No. 24 (rosewood). Agree, enchanting beauty! If you want to get a surface that is smooth to the touch, then after the first layer of the composition and it has dried, go over the log manually with sandpaper. This is true on the railings and on the front part of the bathhouse, where guests love to run their hands along the wall and evaluate the work of the master.

The drying time for the first layer is 12 hours; to be sure, I left it for a day and covered it with a second layer. A dark, noble matte shine appeared. Another trick is that after using the glazing composition, a little pigment remains at the bottom of the jar. We dilute it with a solvent until it looks very pale and go over the second layer of the dried coating. You can do the procedure at any time after coating. As a result, we get a surface that resembles a log additionally impregnated with wax. Very pretty.

Along the way, the ends were treated with glazing compound No. 11 (white), which favorably highlights the work already done.

I was completely satisfied with the result, so we continue the grinding we started. Since you will do all the work yourself, the quality will be at the highest level. If hired workers can ignore flaws, then the master himself will torment himself for even the smallest mistake. For example, knowing that somewhere at the bottom of the log I missed a cut, like a criminal returning to the scene of a crime, I examined my “jamb” again and again. Until he fixed it.

The log house is becoming more and more beautiful. Don’t forget to clean the logs from dust with a brush after work.

The following photo shows logs treated with Base and the ends sealed with white mastic.

Having appreciated the color and texture of the painted logs, I realized that inside the veranda it would look somewhat dark, and I conducted an experiment by painting the log with composition No. 11 (white).

White paint preserves the texture of a sanded log, and I decided to full painting verandas. Through the first layer, a slight yellowness of the pine appears, and there is no shine. Very similar to just bleached wood. But the second layer works wonders. Shine and a certain completeness appear. By the way, buy “Belinka Lazur”, since the white “Belinka Top Lazur” is intended for window frames and costs much more.

Now the bathhouse, with the exception of one wall, is covered in one layer and looks like a house with a negative of Khokhloma painting. The top cross beam is pleasing - it is a knotty fir tree, which gives the structure the appearance of matching the natural style.

We continue the construction of the bathhouse and move on to the stage of laying floors on the veranda. There is a roof over the room, but the absence of a pediment (for the airiness of the structure) does not prevent drops of slanting rain from entering. In winter, it is possible that snow will blow in and then melt during the thaw. Therefore, we will pay special attention to preserving the boards and joists, as well as giving the floor surface water-repellent properties along with a good appearance.

Part 5. Veranda floor

The logs will be 50*150 boards placed on edge. According to the universal formula, the thickness of the board is multiplied by a factor of 20, and we get the step between the logs in my case 1000 mm. But I decided to strengthen the structure somewhat and placed the logs in 600 mm increments. It turned out like this.

For the veranda (conditionally 2 meters by 6 meters) I purchased 16 six-meter boards, taking into account the joists and a reserve of one board. It cost me 4300 rubles and 500 rubles delivery. Blue stains and mold appeared on some boards, which can be easily removed by sanding and bleaching. Worst of all, several boards are infested with wood-boring beetles. Its larvae made several through holes, which I then sealed with mastic. Upon inspection, I didn’t find any more living creatures, and that’s where I calmed down - after drying, the wood doesn’t attract them much, and treatment with an antiseptic and biocide will discourage the beetle from any desire to approach my veranda. I laid a vapor-permeable film on the ground inside the foundation so that no plant had a chance to germinate inside the veranda. The boards were marked and sawed according to their location.

Afterwards, I removed the boards, numbering them by location, and began processing the joists. I used a powerful antiseptic made in Yaroslavl. I am a little familiar with the preparation of antiseptics and the composition of the purchased products inspired confidence in me. Wood preservation is declared for 45 years, subject to impregnation technology. It is required to use 500 grams of solution per square meter, i.e. Apply the first layer, and after 1-2 hours the second. Antiseptic yellow color, so the coating is clearly visible. When dry it becomes dark brown.

Next came the turn of processing the boards. First, I passed over the surface located below and on the sides of the boards with a flap emery wheel attached to a grinder to remove the lint. This way we ensure better absorption of the antiseptic. Then we grind the front surface with a wheel with 100 grit. I also used my long-suffering grinder of the lowest price category. If you are afraid of making ruts and holes, then try sanding part of the board with a hammered wheel to gain a little experience. Don't forget to chamfer the edges of the board.

Attention, bonus! To ensure that the floor surface is ideal to the touch and pleasant to the feet, walk over the sanded board with a mild soap solution. Apply with a brush or roller. When dry, the raised residual pile will become hard and can be easily knocked off with sandpaper even in manual mode.

We lay the boards on the logs with a gap of 4 mm. As a “standard” we take an ordinary nail, which we place vertically between the boards.

Since my boards have natural humidity, maybe a little drier, there is a possibility of them warping during the drying process. That is why I decided to use screw nails rather than self-tapping screws for fastening. A self-tapping screw is a weaker fastener for lateral loads and can simply burst. To prevent rust from spreading to the boards, cover the head of the nail with wood mastic.

Do you see the nail? And he is here!

In the process of laying the boards, I begin to process them. I had the choice of using oil as a coating for open terraces Alpina or Belinka glaze composition. I liked the second option better. Firstly, both oil and Belinka Base penetrate deeply into the wood and protect it from moisture. Secondly, the tinting of oil and Belinka No. 24 are almost similar. Thirdly, oil and glaze composition, which do not have high abrasion resistance, should be renewed every two years. And fourthly, Belinka is cheaper. A large flow of visitors is not planned on the veranda and the maximum load is walking in slippers or barefoot.

After the first layer of Base has dried (24 hours), apply the second layer and give it another day to dry. And the culminating moment comes - coating with Belinka No. 24 glazing compound. If you want more effect and shine of the floor, then purchase Top Azure.

–––––– Six months have passed ––––––

It’s been a long time since my last story, and the construction of the bathhouse has gradually moved forward. Little by little, because you have to do everything yourself. I don't trust covens. I contacted them twice (assembling the frame and installing the roof) and was very dissatisfied with the result.

I looked at the bathhouse from the side and decided that another pediment was needed to protect the veranda space from rain. I placed the clapboard in different directions, leaving something like a window. There will be a stained glass window - polycarbonate with a pattern applied with special stained glass paints.

The fit of the boards to the gable turned out to be quite tight, so I will do without an additional plinth and leave it as is.

The pediment was painted the same color as the bathhouse, and a side board with pretend carvings was installed. The cost of the work was: lining - 2500 rubles; self-tapping screws – 200 rubles; paint - 200 rubles; wind carved board - 800 rubles. I think it’s quite inexpensive for such a result.

Last year I didn’t have time to paint the roof lining, I just covered it with base, and the temperatures started to drop below zero. Just the other day, having chosen a period without rain, I walked with two layers of white Belinka. I liked the result, but I’m thinking of securing it with a third layer.

And so, a new bathhouse construction season has opened. In the fall, I managed to capture several fine days with positive temperatures, which allowed me to finally make a window and a door. The technology for preparing openings is standard. We mark and cut out to form a spike on the log. For the window opening I used 100*200 timber, and for the door frame I used 100*250 timber. At the sawmill they met me halfway and made two six-meter blanks to special order. They charged ridiculous amounts of money - about 2,500 rubles including delivery.

On site, the timber was sawn into the required lengths. The window opening turned out to be clean 50*50 centimeters, the door was clean 70*160. So let’s really implement the ancient commandment - bow to the bathhouse when you enter. The upper level of the threshold will be 15 centimeters from the floor to keep warm in winter. I cut a groove on the beam to the size of the tenon on the log, plus a centimeter in width in each direction. I attached a 20 centimeter wide roll of insulation to the tenon, I think it was linen, I don’t remember what I bought. The vertical beam was stretched, and horizontal sections were used as spacers. The gap from the top post to the log is about 3 cm, filled with moss. There is also moss under the threshold and window sill, which, after installing all the components, was compacted to the state of almost a log.

A quarter is selected on the window for ease of installation of plastic. Spacers are installed in the door, since deformation is possible during the natural drying of the timber.

What's planned. The window is plastic with imitation of division into smaller windows. The photo shows my hooliganism, so to speak - instead of a window I inserted polystyrene foam and used insulating tape to mark the future product.

The door is metal with insulation along the leaf and jambs. At the company where the doors are made, the director is a good friend of mine, we discussed all the details and, I hope, we will get a good product. By door leaf there will be a wooden overlay 1.5 centimeters thick. Using the overlay, I will age the wood, make an imitation of forged hinges and wooden crossbars. But that’s in the future, but now I’m busy landscaping the veranda.

We have one craftsman who makes tables and benches of fairly good quality and very inexpensively. This headset cost me only 7.5 thousand rubles. Following tradition, I covered it with Belinka base, Rosewood glazing compound and deck varnish from the same company.

Somewhere on the hundredth or two hundredth jump from the level of the veranda, I realized that I needed a porch. The plan was to make some kind of forged product with wooden steps, but for now I decided to limit myself to a temporary shed. Although the temporary hut turned out to be quite nice and will still serve me until I get tired of it. On the sides I used logs that remained from cutting out the openings, and on the steps I used a 50*150 board. He placed stones from a nearby quarry on the base.

And now about the urgent matter. First, I apply caulking inside the log house. The logs have already settled in place. What is possible - dried up, what is needed - led, what wanted - sat down on its own permanent place. Accordingly, cracks have appeared inside that require careful sealing.

External inspection confirmed the good quality of the caulk. Nothing fell out, the birds didn’t act up, and the moss lay as planned. When I cut out the openings, the moss compacted into one dense and hard strip, it was even difficult to disassemble, but such strips are good for filling cracks. I made another caulk from birch. The spatula turned out to be wider and larger; a two-kilogram sledgehammer fits perfectly with it. Moss flies into the cracks with a whistle, and where the log lies too tightly I use birch wedges. The process is long, but mandatory if you don’t want to steam in felt boots in winter. Secondly, I inspected the foundation. There are slight chips on the outside, but these are sagging during pouring and do not affect the quality. However, if I have free time, I will plaster and cover facade paint. I haven't chosen the manufacturer or color yet. Last year I installed ebb tides, which performed well even with a serious snow load. And thirdly, I will count the snow guards. When last year a crust formed on the roof after an icy rain and 50-60 centimeters of snow fell on it, there was a good surprise in the form of a huge dense snowdrift near the bathhouse after the first thaw.

Well, I’ll tell you what I do to keep my bathhouse warm and dry. A month ago I bought a metal stove from the Izistim company for 58,000 rubles. I took a long time to choose, tediously, read all the reviews and realized - this is what I need. Its parameters can be found on the company’s official website, where it is given detailed description. While the stove is standing on the street in front of the bathhouse, I still need to figure out how to carefully drag 130 kg of metal, especially since I don’t have floors yet and there are 600 bricks stacked on the ground. It turned out that these stoves are made literally right next door to me, so I had the honor of communicating directly with the manufacturers, who really helped with advice and recommendations. The pipe is planned to stand next to the stainless sleeve. The structure will be about 5 meters. I ordered a stainless steel pipe with a wall thickness of 1 mm there, from the Izistim company. Literally a week later I received my order. Laser welding, high quality and reasonable price. In terms of money, the pleasure amounted to 11,500 full rubles for a set of pipes of 5 meters. CRAFT company.

The complete kit includes a tee, a plug for cleaning the pipe from soot and removing condensation, and a type of adapter with a platform that will allow you to firmly fix the chimney in a brick pipe. The structure on the right in the photo is a horizontal section of pipe from the stove to the chimney. Heat-resistant stainless steel, 4 mm thick, was made at EasySteam for 4,300 rubles.

Naturally, I didn’t go shopping and bought convection doors without leaving the checkout. Convenient locks, normal appearance and additional sheets of metal for securing products in brick.

Purchased from Kostroma clay brick grade 150, which is enough for the furnace lining. The geometry of the brick is normal; if necessary, the edges can be rounded to give the products a more interesting shape. If you want a more beautiful brick, then buy Vitebsk brand 200. I want each the brick cost 25 rubles apiece.

I didn’t bother with clay, which still needs to be mined somewhere and a solution prepared, since I don’t have any special skills. Has gained ready mixture « Stove House Makarovs" produced in Kostroma, Gzhel colors. They also have a white clay mixture for the aesthetes. It was not possible to find the stove makers - everyone was busy. The cost for craftsmen starts from 40 rubles per brick on the lining and 60 rubles per brick on the pipe. You can calculate the cost of the work yourself. I will do it myself, although the work will take longer.

Part 6. Oven

“And the battle begins again” - we continue the construction of the bathhouse and the improvement of the internal space. The heart of the sauna is the stove. My wishes for the climate of the future steam room and other rooms are extremely simple and unpretentious. Firstly, your feet and ears should be warm even in winter, and not steam with a hard plus in the head area and at the same time wearing felt boots so that your feet don’t freeze. Secondly, there must be inertia sauna stove to be able to stop flooding and steam without running around for firewood with constant support desired temperature. It is advisable to keep the heat in the bathhouse for two or three days to dry the premises. And thirdly, hot water should not boil in the steam room, but should be located in the washing compartment in the remote tank.

As I already wrote, the Sochi stove from the Izistim company with a mounted heat exchanger for heating water was chosen.

The heat exchanger is equipped with inlet and outlet pipes with a diameter of one inch. The design is intended to be covered with brick, which will simultaneously serve as a screen from hard infrared radiation emanating from the metal and as a heat accumulator. Before installation, you need to heat the stove outside in a gentle mode to burn the factory paint and eliminate the burning smell when used directly in the bathhouse. A heat-resistant cord is laid on the door and ash pan, which is necessary for sealing. This has not happened before, but company managers listen to consumer recommendations through communication on the forum and make the necessary changes.

A cast iron grate is installed inside the combustion chamber. Additional sheets of metal are welded on the sides and end of the chamber to reduce the impact of the flame on the furnace walls to avoid deformation.

For relative draft, I installed a meter-long pipe and conducted the first tests of a metal sauna stove. The draft even with such a piece of pipe is quite good, only there is a slight emission of smoke from the door when it is opened and, accordingly, a small amount of soot on the glass.

The foundation for the stove is connected to the foundation of the bathhouse, and reinforcement was carried out during pouring. To begin laying, I leveled the surface cement mortar so as not to damage the waterproofing. I laid two layers of roofing felt on the pedestal, on which I will begin laying bricks.

To rise above the floor level, and from the foundation it will be about 18-19 centimeters, we lay out the base under the stove three bricks high. There is a little trick. To save mortar and bricks, we lay out a “well”, and inside we simply place the worst brick and fill the remaining space with sand.

The sand will need to be slightly moistened and compacted so that it does not settle, but this is not necessary; the filling will not go anywhere.

Bricks produced in Kostroma, costing 24 rubles per piece. The geometry is normal, there are chips in the corners and edges, so you have to choose the front side of the stove. It doesn't prick well, it's better to cut it with a grinder. For the solution, the stove mixture "Makarov's Stove House" is used. The solution sets quickly, holds the brick well, and is easy to use. Bags of 25 kg, cost about 400 rubles per piece. One bag is designed for laying 60 bricks. The solution must be mixed with a powerful drill with an attachment; it is unlikely that you will be able to make a homogeneous mass with your hands. The mixture is well dried and you have to add quite a lot of water.

I “sealed” the top row of bricks along the base of the stove with mortar; I wanted to install the structure on metal nickels - the legs of the stove, it seemed to me, would push through the brick. But it turned out that in this case the neck with the door rises and a gap appears. Therefore, I later cleaned off the solution and discarded the lining.

I immediately tried on convection doors that would draw air from the relaxation room into the steam room for exchange. But, as it turned out later, they cannot be installed in this place, it would interfere decorative screen around the firebox.

The most difficult thing was to drag the stove into the bathhouse and not demolish anything along the way. The 130 kg structure was awe-inspiring, and I had to order two stronger loaders. If the first time a loader from the “legs and cap” category helped me drag the stove to the bathhouse, then the craftsmen really arrived. They moved me away and in 10 minutes they installed the “piece of iron” at the place of use.

I installed a T-bend on the stove to determine the main pipe. The picture shows a view from the rear, where the “lambs” are located for removing the roof and subsequently cleaning the pipe from soot, although the manufacturers assured me that there was no soot.

The main pipe will run to the left of the furnace and will also sit on a foundation connected to a common strip. We continue laying and forming a pipe.

The pipe will be functional only after the T-shaped section enters, so we make its sides one and a half bricks long, and also fill the internal space with sand.

Inside the steam room in the furnace screen we install two more convection doors, but of a large size. This is necessary to quickly warm up the room. We do not cover the top of the stove with bricks, leaving space for stones. When the convection doors are open, air is taken from the floor, passes near the stove body and exits through the stones already heated. The air flow can be adjusted using the damper. The doors are hung from the side that is convenient for you.

I bought the doors from the Izistim company; they modernized the design by adding a stainless steel frame the width of the brick. Now it has become convenient to install the doors, without additional fastening with wire. Small gaps are left around the perimeter (except for the bottom) of the doors, which compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

The main pipe, so that it passes between the rafters and does not take up much space, is located in line with the “face” of the stove screen. The T-adapter goes a little to the side. Izistim made it for me in abundance. But, as it turned out, the size was the most suitable, as they say, neither decrease nor increase. A 4 mm stainless steel product cost 4,500 rubles.

It's time to hang the heat exchanger. I bought galvanized angles, bends and couplings per inch, attached them to general design, wrapping the thread with flax treated with heat-resistant sealant (red in the photo).

The brickwork reached the top of the firebox. We install a support angle of 50*50 mm with an overlap of 8-10 cm on the brick. There is a thermal gap of about 2 cm around the firebox.

The front side is almost finished, the convection doors are set higher than planned, but for air exchange this is even more convenient; the air coming from the relaxation room into the steam room will not overheat. Contact with the heated oven is minimal.

We slowly cover the heat exchanger with masonry and make pipe outlets to connect to the remote tank. The holes are not very neat and then I will cover them with stainless steel discs or other decor that is not afraid of moisture. This is a wall in the washing room; it is planned to lay brick up to the ceiling.

The facade of the stove is finished, the next row will be a “mantelpiece” so that the hot air from the firebox, when it is opened, does not go directly to the ceiling, but has some obstacle. Yes, and you can put interior decoration items on the shelf.

The wall in the washing room is finished, the pipe connections are made. All that remains is to buy stainless pipes and make connections to the hanging tank.

It's time to fire the pipe. Tying the masonry from the steam room side. The T-adapter is connected to the sleeve through a tee. A cover is installed at the bottom of the tee to drain condensate and clean the pipe from soot.

From the side of the steam room, the stove looks like this: the T-shaped adapter is covered with a brick screen on top. A 40*40 corner was taken as supports.

I will cover the free cavity above the stove and the adapter with stones for decoration and evaporation of various incense; no other function is provided for these stones. And perhaps I’ll cover the pipe with a sheet of stainless steel iron to avoid hard thermal radiation from highly heated metal.

We continue to build the pipe. In the place where the ceiling passes, we form a fluff in order to maintain fire safety distances from the “smoke” to the wooden structures. As expected, the front and side wall the stoves reached almost to the future ceiling.

According to calculations, the main pipe should pass in the middle between the ceiling beams. And so it happened. The pipe has “grown” to the roof and it’s time to make an opening.

And the “face” of the stove looks like this. Convection doors are located in one row with pipe cleaning. It’s still stained with clay, but you can already understand what I want.

Next we prepare the roof for the passage of the pipe. From the inside, the roof was drilled into the corners of the future passage with a margin of one centimeter. I used a grinder to cut out metal tiles on the roof. I got a passage almost strictly in the center of the ridge, which is convenient for later closing the hole from rain. And the snow will not put pressure on the brickwork.

First of all, we insert a stainless pipe sleeve into the opening, then we begin laying.

You should not be content with just the level; you will have to run down so that the pipe is visually level. “Otter”, the rain protection is made of almost half a brick. And so the pipe, not yet cleared of clay, takes its proper shape.

The pipe was cleaned of clay and coated with varnish for exterior work on stone and brick in three layers. Each layer hardens in about four parts at a temperature of +200°C. This produces the effect of a wet stone and seals the pores. The temperature at the top of the stove will be approximately the same as the outside air, if only a little warmer, so the varnish is frost-resistant and can withstand sudden temperature changes. The result was the effect of wet stone and sealing of pores on the brick and seams, which will protect the material from washing out.

The pipes were covered around with material that was left over from making the castings. The approach to the brick is about 1 centimeter under the “otter”. The very first rains showed the effectiveness of the design.

Firstly, clean the oven from clay. Do not use water. This way you will only rub the mortar inside the brick and will not be able to get rid of the stains. If you don’t want to spoil the outer part of the brick, then be patient, use rags and brushes. You can use fine sandpaper.

Secondly, coat the oven with heat-resistant varnish, it is enough to use the composition up to 1500 ° C, you will not heat the screen any more, even if you want.

And thirdly, place an umbrella on the pipe to prevent precipitation from getting inside.

A little trick: to prepare the solution, take rainwater, thereby avoiding salt stains on the bricks when the clay dries.

And, I will be happy to answer all your questions, since the report from the scene is far from complete and you may be interested in some nuances. We’ll help, take photos, show you.

To be continued! (No ratings yet)

Bathhouse - there is so much in this word! The smell of birch brooms, beneficial steam, a tub of cold water on steamed shoulders, renewal of body and spirit in the pleasant coolness of the dressing room... It’s time, with pure thoughts, to begin the construction of a Russian bathhouse, which has come to us from the depths of centuries. The traditional “soap dish” cannot be replaced by any newfangled Jacuzzi bath or shower.

The foundation for a bathhouse is chosen based on its size and the type of soil on which it will stand. As a rule, the owner is faced with a choice between columnar And tape foundation.

The wooden sauna has light weight and can be reliably erected on shallow basis.

On columnar foundations wooden baths They put it up more often at the dacha. Such foundations are simpler; they are built from support pillars that are installed separately. The supports are built from reinforced concrete, brick, concrete or rubble stone. Pillars made of natural material or brick (size 51-51 cm) are erected at the corners and walls of the building at a distance of about 2 m from each other.

Optimal cross section supports - 60-60 cm. Often a cushion of gravel and sand is placed under them.

The column foundation is built to a height 20-30 centimeters from the ground level, the top is leveled with mortar and covered 2-3 layers of roofing felt - waterproofing:

Let's move on to the second type of foundation.

Tape the foundation will cost more as it passes around the entire perimeter the buildings. A trench is pre-dug to a depth of 40-60 cm. A sand cushion is compacted at the bottom, the purpose of which is to protect the base from seasonal soil movements:

The foundation is fastened with mortar and filled with rubble, concrete or reinforced concrete blocks, and red brick. Rubble bases are made in different widths, depending on the size of the building and the internal structure of the bath.

Reliable and rubble concrete foundations. The following fillers are used: crushed stone, gravel, broken bricks. If the foundation depth is up to 1 meters, you first need to pour a layer of concrete onto the bottom of the trench. After this, add a layer of filler 15-25 cm, fill with solution and compact.

After leveling the base, install it on top waterproofing from two layers of roofing felt and filled with bitumen:

We invite you to read our article, which identifies the main mistakes that arise when arranging the foundation - what you need to know before you start pouring the foundation.

Tree- this is a traditional material for building a bathhouse, therefore we do not consider options for constructing walls from cinder blocks, bricks, foam blocks and other materials within the framework of the article. To build the perfect wooden bathhouse, you need to choose special log- after harvesting, the wood is “seasoned” for about 2 -x years.

Dried the wood does not contain “excess” moisture, and therefore does not deform and is resistant to cracking.

A wooden backing is laid on the waterproofing 50-60 mm thick and not less 150 mm wide, filled with tar or bitumen.

Before installation decorative crown(its lower surface is impregnated with antiseptic compounds) is spread on the lining in an even layer tow, dry moss or stripes mineral felt. And between the logs they place interventional seal.

Logs for external walls cut off on one side, for internal and partition walls- on both sides to depth 2-3 see. The cutting begins with the first (flat) crown; it is made from a log, hewn on both sides at an angle 90 °. The bottom surface of the wood is laid on the foundation, and its side becomes the beginning of the inner wall.

Avoiding use coniferous species wood is used to decorate the interior of the bathhouse alders, aspen, linden trees, less often - larches And cedar.

Aspen- this is an almost perfect answer to the question about choosing a material for interior decoration.

Ceiling in log, brick and panel sauna done the same way. A distinctive feature of the ceiling for chopped “soap” is that it can be made of boards. This will give the building natural look. It turns out that the interior is “antique”, but there is also practical meaning: natural roofing provides intense air circulation with good thermal protection.

Can be arranged additional thermal insulation:

To perform installation ceiling for a bath, you need wood that has low thermal conductivity, tolerates changes in humidity and temperature well. Low resin content.

Temperature under the ceiling of the bathhouse is the highest and if the boards contain a lot of resin, then when it heats up, it will drip down. Therefore, wood should be used to decorate the ceiling and interior decoration of the steam room. exclusively hardwood.

Plank floors laid in this way: first, brick pillars with a section of 25-25 cm, logs are laid on top of them. Boards are laid along the joists 20-30 mm thickness:

Material moisture should not exceed the indicator 12 %, otherwise the boards will begin to deform after laying.

Stone floors for a bath they last much longer. Concrete mortar must be poured on top of the gravel bed. Such floors are durable and reliable, however, they still have one, but large flaw: They are cold. Therefore, wooden ladders or planks must be laid on top of the concrete floor.

You can also do warm floor. To make it, use any heat insulator: glass wool, mineral wool, basalt wool, expanded clay, perlite, expanded polystyrene.

Roof and roofing

The rafter roof consists of the following elements:

Rafter truss. A rigid bundle of beams that serves to distribute and absorb loads that arise in the system. Rafters are the main massive parts of the structure onto which the weight of the entire roof is distributed. Stiffening ribs enhance the stability of the beams.

Lathing. A horizontal base made of timber, packed on top of the rafters to tightly fasten roofing materials.

Mauerlat. A wooden beam placed on top of the finished walls and used to connect the rafters to the walls of the building.

Below are the main, time-tested construction plans roofs:

There are wood-burning heaters 2 types: metal And brick. Let's talk about them in more detail and not ignore them electric ovens.

Metal furnaces

Metal A batch furnace without a container for heating water is very compact. In an iron casing with doors on metal shelves grates with a plate are laid, which make up the bottom of the combustion chamber.

There are cavities inside the body where they place stones. There are heaters open And closed types. When the stove is operating, gases enter the chimney pipe, passing through the channels. The firebox is usually lined with bricks:

The oven is equipped chimneys consisting of sinkholes and collecting pipes. The rock chamber has two doors, but chimneys are often installed to allow flue gases to enter the bottom of the rock chamber from the space around the duct.

Brick heaters

Construction brick heater begins with the construction of its foundation. To prevent the stove from sagging or tilting due to soil freezing or moisture, the base must be deepened to 0,5 meters. The transverse dimensions of the support should be more than the stove, one brick.

Furnace foundation no need to combine with wall. The distance between them is no less 5 centimeters.

The most the best base - rubble concrete or concrete. In dry soil it can be built from bricks using cement, lime or lime-cement mortar.

The surface of the foundation needs to be poured cement-sand mortar, level with a lath and cover with waterproofing. Usually this is roofing felt or roofing felt, which is laid in 2 layer(item 4 in the diagram below):

Designations in the diagram are:

Sole.

Underground part.

Top ledge.

Waterproofing.

Kiln masonry.

Building material for the construction of a furnace- ordinary solid brick. In no case Sand-lime or hollow bricks cannot be used for masonry.

Electric heaters

In modern baths the air is up to 100 °C is most often heated electric heater with built-in device automatic regulation. The control unit turns off heating element when the casing temperature exceeds permissible norm, and also if it gets on the stove, for example, towels.

Electric heater in the bathhouse must be equipped with a temperature limiter, disconnecting heating element, and a time relay that stops the current supply to heating element after a certain operating time (up to 5 hours). Today the market is full of various modifications.

Let's give some useful tips which will be useful when going to the bathhouse:

Dry birch firewood ideal for heating a stove in a bathhouse. Don't do unnecessary experiments.

For a beginner bath attendant the time spent in the steam room should not exceed 5 minutes. Experienced people can spend more time in the steam room: from 25 before 30 minutes.

The musty spirit in the bathhouse can be eliminated, if you add a few drops of ammonia to the ladle and splash it on the stones. Don't forget to ventilate the steam room afterwards.

Don't go to the sauna on a full stomach. But on the contrary, you should eat a couple of cloves of garlic. This vegetable removes toxins well through sweat.

Contrary to popular belief, you should not take beer and, especially, strong alcohol with you to the bathhouse. Treat your body with tea or decoction of rose hips and raspberries.

Choose a picturesque place for a bathhouse. The courage of decisions is rewarded with double pleasure from the process.

Finally, we suggest you look video, in which the issue of building a bathhouse is discussed in detail:

Construction of your own bathhouse on the site country house, the matter is quite serious and troublesome, so you need to approach this issue with full responsibility. In this article we will try to highlight the main points of construction, and in general, talk about how to build a bathhouse with your own hands on own plot, making the most rational use of their capabilities.

Self-construction of a bathhouse, from start to finish

Any construction begins with the preparation of design and permitting documentation. With the construction of a bathhouse, the issue is resolved a little easier, since it is a non-residential auxiliary premises.

According to Article 51. “Issue of construction permits”, Town Planning Code of the Russian Federation dated December 29, 2004 No. 190-F3, a separate permit for the construction of auxiliary buildings is not required. However, after the construction of the bathhouse, you must contact the BTI to register new building on the general plan of your site.

The construction project of any structure is, first of all, necessary for the owner himself to:

• objective budgeting;
• development planning;
• competent construction of the building;
• laying all necessary communications.

In addition, for an understanding person, the project contains ready-made instructions that will tell you how to properly build a bathhouse with your own hands. Therefore, this point is mandatory for the construction of objects of any complexity, including baths.

Start of construction

Once the project has been selected, the time frame and budget for the development have been set, and the necessary materials have been purchased, construction work can begin.

The first stage, as a rule, is planning work on the ground and digging a pit, and it is recommended to comply with certain conditions:

• When planning the territory, it is necessary to remove the fertile layer of soil and store it separately until the work is completed, and then return it to its place.
• When renting earth-moving equipment, in parallel with the pit, it would be advisable to immediately dig trenches to connect communications to the bathhouse (water supply, sewerage, electric cable).
• During construction, install drainage ditches to remove rainwater from the pit.
• Install fences at the work site and provide walkways and paths for the safe passage of people.

Advice! Start execution earthworks, it is best to start in the second half of spring, when the snow melts, the ground dries out and warm, clear weather sets in, and try to finish before the period of prolonged rains, snowfalls and autumn frosts begins.

Choosing a foundation

For the construction of a bathhouse, there are several types of foundations. All of them are made on the basis of reinforced concrete.

Which one to choose depends on the characteristics of your site.

1. Tape fine buried foundation , the most common option. Suitable for sandy, stable soils, with low level occurrence of groundwater. The work on making a strip foundation consists of digging a trench about 400 mm deep, installing formwork, filling the bottom of the trench with a layer of sand, then a layer of gravel, installing reinforcement lining, and pouring all this with concrete to the top level of the formwork.

1. Columnar foundation, are reinforced concrete pillars installed at the corners of the building, and at the junctions of internal and external walls. Instead of reinforced concrete, brick or rubble stone bound with cement mortar can be used. Used on slightly heaving soils. The depth of the pillars, as a rule, can reach one and a half meters. The work consists of digging holes, installing formwork, filling with crushed stone, installing reinforcement, and pouring concrete into the pillars. As an option for a columnar foundation, bored piles can also be considered.

1. Screw piles, another type of columnar foundation, are used in the case of weak peat or fluid clay soils. The depth of such piles can reach several meters until its base reaches solid layers of soil. The screw pile is a steel thick-walled pipe with metal blades at the base, which is manually, or using mechanisms, screwed into the ground. After deepening, the pile is cut to required height, and filled with concrete mortar.

1. Monolithic concrete pad, is used in the case of difficult hydrological soil conditions with a high level of groundwater. It is a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, which is poured on site over the entire area of ​​the pit.

Advice! The distance between the load-bearing supports of a columnar foundation should be no more than 2 meters. If there is a greater distance between the corners of the building and the intersection of the walls, it is necessary to install additional intermediate support.

External and internal walls

Before you build a bathhouse with your own hands, you need to decide on the material of the walls. Brick and natural wood are most often used for these purposes.

In addition, sometimes the bathhouse is built according to the principle of frame-panel construction, where a prefabricated structure made of wooden beams is used as a frame, and the cladding is done composite materials on a wood-chip base with polystyrene foam filler. Also, in some cases, the walls of the bathhouse are built from materials based on lightweight concrete, such as foam concrete or wood concrete.

For those who are wondering how to build a cheap bathhouse with their own hands, the most appropriate would be to make the internal walls and partitions from the same material as the external ones. The difference is mainly only in the thickness of the walls.

Each of the materials has its own advantages and disadvantages.

1. Brick is characterized by easy accessibility, fire safety, durability, resistance to high humidity and the effects of rodents, pests, and molds. Constructing a bathhouse from it does not require any special skills and can be done with your own hands. Disadvantages include low thermal insulation capacity, high weight, relatively high cost of material and construction costs.

1. Natural wood, environmentally friendly, due to its porous structure, has good thermal insulation and breathability, has a small specific gravity. In our latitudes it is an accessible and relatively inexpensive building material; the construction of walls takes little time. However, a long time is required for the shrinkage and shrinkage of a log house; practical skills are required for construction; the tree has an increased fire hazard, does not withstand the effects of water, and is not resistant to mold, rodents and various pests.
2. The advantages of frame-panel construction are simplicity and high speed construction of such objects, their mobility and versatility. If necessary, the bathhouse can be converted into a barn, living space, or even moved to another place. In general, this one is relatively new way, has recently begun to gain popularity, and you can learn more about it from the materials on how to build a panel bathhouse with your own hands.
3. Structures made of lightweight concrete or wood concrete, which replaced foam concrete, are structures made of blocks made from a mixture of chopped wood fiber materials with cement mortar. This one is relatively new material combines the properties of natural wood and monolithic brick. It is characterized by high strength, durability, fire resistance, low specific gravity, good thermal insulation and breathability, resistance to moisture, rodents and mold. However, it is better to protect it from direct contact with water.

Based on the characteristics given, everyone can make the best decision for themselves on what to build a bathhouse from.

Sauna stove

As you know, one of the most important elements of any bathhouse is its stove. From ancient times to the present day, the most widely used stove is a brick stove, which is heated with wood or coal.

The firebox of such a furnace, made of refractory brick, in its lower part has grates made of thick-walled metal, through which, from the blower compartment, air is supplied to the furnace, ensuring stable combustion of the fuel and a rapid increase in temperature.

It has some features that are not inherent in a regular home stove.

• The stove is usually equipped in such a way that it simultaneously heats the steam room, the washing compartment, and the rest room, which is often combined with a dressing room.
• From the outside washing department a heat exchanger enters the furnace, into which is supplied from below cold water, heating up, goes upward and enters the hot water container. Thus, constantly circulating, it heats up to a high temperature.
• On the side of the steam room, on the stove there is a compartment for stones. During the process of heating the stove, the stones become heated, and during bathing procedures, after applying small portions of water to them, they release heat in the form of superheated water vapor into the steam room, which is the whole steaming process. The more stones there are on the stove, the longer the sauna can retain heat.

B with good insulation, it makes sense to use electric heater stoves, the price of which will be lower than the cost of building and operating a wood stove. In them, the stones are heated by the heat of powerful electric heaters.

The advantages of such stoves are ease of installation and operation, fairly quick heating of the room, no need to prepare firewood or periodically add fuel. Also, they are lightweight and compact in size.

From negative qualities such stoves, it should be noted that they consume a lot of electricity, and in some cases, their operation requires a three-phase power supply, which is not available in every country house.

Note! requires the construction of a separate foundation for it, in no way connected with the load-bearing foundation of the bathhouse. For electric ovens, its installation is not required.

Engineering communications equipment

In order for the bathhouse to serve as a full-fledged place of relaxation and satisfy all the needs of sanitary and hygienic procedures, it must be equipped with all the necessary communications.

The water supply can be installed using conventional metal-plastic pipe, laying it underground in a protective shell with thermal insulation.

The sewerage system also needs to be equipped with the underground installation of a plastic drain pipe for external use, connecting it to the general drain of the house, and directing the drainage from the bathhouse to the septic tank.

Electricity can be supplied using both underground and overhead cable power lines. For this purpose, you need to use a special cable of a suitable cross-section, connecting it after installation to the distribution board of your home.

Conclusion

Many owners of suburban areas are concerned with the question: how to quickly build a bathhouse with your own hands? This article, as well as other materials on similar topics, is aimed at helping readers get an answer to their question. If this theoretical material not enough, you can watch the video in this article.

Bathhouse with your own efforts - An excellent combination of business and pleasure. An activity that brings great benefits to your health. Excellent design and harmonious combination with the landscape of the land make the bathhouse the pride of any owner, which is a pleasure to show off to friends. The desire to improve health, improve metabolism, and relieve emotional stress has long been characteristic of humans.

Whether you build a bathhouse yourself or entrust the construction to companies and competent people is up to you. But the bathhouse that you will undertake to build yourself has one thing important advantage- its cost will be significantly lower. Our article will tell you how to build it yourself, this source of your pride.

To build a steam room, in which you can comfortably and efficiently improve your health, you need a project. In the absence of sufficient experience, construction can be quite a painstaking task. There are several nuances to consider. For example, the choice of material for finishing the steam room, the need for knowledge about the characteristics and performance qualities of the material used.

Despite the possibility of fire in wooden structures, a brick building will absorb the smell of burning. It is important to correctly calculate the size of the steam room. Easier to use and easier to control temperature, will be in a steam room small sizes. Choosing reliable electrical wiring will ensure the construction of the bathhouse, observing safety rules.

Project selection

The construction of any facility should begin with design and construction permitting documentation. Since the bathhouse is a non-residential premises, according to the Town Planning Code of the Russian Federation, Art. 51 “Issue of building permits”, no special permit is required for the construction of auxiliary premises. But after completion of construction, by contacting the BTI, you need to register the building in the general plan of your site.

A project for those in the know - These are instructions for how to build a bathhouse correctly. This point is important for the construction of any structures, the bathhouse is no exception.

To choose the right material for building a bathhouse, and what nuances need to be taken into account, see below.

Stage 1. You must first decide on the amount you can spend. Calculate the cost of pouring a foundation, building walls, and a roof. We add interior and exterior decoration. After everything has been carefully calculated, we move on to stage 2.

Stage 2. It is necessary to plan where the building will be, its size, the location of trees, flower beds, and the location of future buildings. It is better to make the dimensions several times, since this is the most important stage when choosing a project. Maybe it will happen that you reconsider your plans, it turns out that you have the finances, but there is not enough space for the building.

Stage 3. It includes the layout of the bathhouse; it is necessary to answer a number of questions:

• How many people will be in the sauna at the same time?
• Will you need a pool?
• Will you need billiards?
• How many storey buildings do you want to build? Considering that a square meter of floor in a one-story building will be more expensive than in a two-story building. In the second case, the foundation and all communications can be halved.
• Do you need a terrace? Very often, people prefer to go out to the terrace after the steam room in the summer and enjoy refreshing drinks.
• Will there be a barbecue installed near the terrace?
• Planning a kitchen in a bathhouse?

The above list, of course, is not exhaustive, but serves as a guide when choosing a project.

Stage 4. Wall materials.

If the bathhouse is built from logs, it can be converted to any material, for this you can use:

• Hand-cut log.
• Rounded log.
• Glued beam.
• The beam is simple.
• Profiled timber.

Remember that a well-chosen project will help you save money and avoid unexpected mistakes.

Choice of design and materials

Bath - this is a complex object, and the requirements for it are more biased than for an ordinary room. Design and selection quality materials- this is the main requirement. And the question of what material to use can be divided into several questions:

• Material for walls.
• Materials and design of the rest room.
• Material and design of the steam room.
• Bath design.

This list is not exhaustive, but we will focus only on these issues.

Wall material

The walls are the basis of the bathhouse. The quality of the selected components affects the durability. The most popular materials are:

• Brick
• Foam concrete
• Arbolit
• Tree

Brick suboptimal option for constructing walls. It has high thermal conductivity, and therefore it is necessary to strengthen the thermal insulation of the walls. Laying brick is a rather labor-intensive process. In addition, you need a special foundation for it.

Foam concrete much lighter and has lower thermal conductivity compared to brick. The dimensions of the foam block are comparable to sizes 13 sand-lime bricks, which saves costs when building a foundation. Foam concrete “breathes” and does not allow moisture to pass through.

Arbolit is cement mixed with organic compounds and sawdust. Sold in block form. It is easier to produce than foam concrete, so it will not be very difficult to do it directly on the construction site with your own hands. Wood concrete structures require a protective coating due to low moisture resistance.

Tree- This is a classic component for bath walls. The best varieties wood is pine, cedar, larch. To make a log house you need to use the following types of wood:

• The log is whole.
• Rounded log.
• Sawn timber of rectangular section.
• Profiled timber.
• Glued laminated timber.

When these lumber are laid at their natural moisture, they shrink significantly, requiring about two years before final shrinkage. Glued laminated timber gives a slight shrinkage.

Bathhouse interior

Decorating the interior with all kinds of plastic products or varnishing, when the temperature increases, the objects will release toxic substances that change the smell in the room and affect your health. The best content The interior will include caps, bath brooms, a samovar - just what will be useful in the process of relaxation.

The quality of lighting also affects the interior. The best option is a lamp with a soft yellowish light. Brightly lit lamps can have a bad effect on the environment and make it tense.

Rest room

In the relaxation room you can use the classic version of the Russian bath. Cover the walls with clapboard, install the lamps on the ceiling, while several small lamps can be attached to the walls. The floor is tiled because easy care behind it and it will slightly diversify the interior. You need to pay attention to the fact that wooden floors very quickly become dirty, and a large amount of moisture spoils the appearance.

Large table, benches or chairs necessary items for arranging the premises. Furniture should mainly consist of wood, since fabric-based chairs will soon become unusable. A shelf for tea, aromatic oils, and other things should also be attached in the room. The windows should be curtained with bamboo curtains or made of cotton.

You should not use synthetic decorations in the interior of the room; they do not fit with the style of the Russian bathhouse. Televisions and tape recorders and other equipment are a good addition to relaxation, although they do not quite fit into the interior of a Russian bathhouse. But this is everyone's personal matter. The fireplace also perfectly relieves the atmosphere and complements the interior of the bathhouse.

Steam room

Steam room — The main room is in the bathhouse, so maximum attention should be paid to the design. The most suitable material for walls is lining. We lay out the floor with tiles, we have already talked about this. A ladle and a bucket for water are irreplaceable elements in the interior of a steam room. The stove with stones is the basis of the steam room.

A traditional red brick stove is the best option. It is not advisable to change the shapes or components for the stove; the classics will always be fashionable. When changing materials, it is better to give preference natural stones or glass inserts. Important element in the steam room these are shelves. It is better to make them corner with several steps, this way you will achieve space, comfort and coziness.

Smoothing the corners hides the real parameters of the room, usually they range from 4 to 6 m2. The door in the steam room is usually made of wood. More modern version- doors made of glass 8 mm thick. It’s better to stick with the second option because it’s more comfortable to be in a translucent room and, in case of unforeseen circumstances, it’s possible to simply break them. You need to install the door so that it opens outward, this will save space in the room.

Bath design

The most inexpensive material for design is pine. There is no need to use it in the steam room itself; when heated, this tree releases resin. It is better to use it in a relaxation room; the temperature in it is milder and will not cause harm to health. When pine gives off a pleasant smell, more comfortable conditions for relaxation will be created in the rest room. Linden or larch are suitable for the sauna. With a beautiful appearance, these types of wood will last a long time and not rot.

It is better to tiled the shower and toilet, this will simplify cleaning the room. When finishing a bathroom floor with wood, it is better to use an edged board, but this action needs to be carefully considered.

Construction stages

Bathhouse location

You need to decide on the location of the bathhouse on personal plot. Entrance doors We do it on the south side because in winter there are fewer snowdrifts here, and with the arrival of spring the snow will melt faster.

The building must be located at a distance of 5 meters from other buildings. It is advisable to combine them only in rare cases.

By placing the bathhouse on a flat area, away from ponds and slopes, we protect it from destruction of the foundation.

Foundation

We use it and make it to a depth of 1-1.5 m. After pouring the foundation, you need to let it settle and dry. The time to rebuild the foundation is approximately 2 months, but you can leave it and start building further next year.

Base and first crown of logs

We cover the foundation around the perimeter with roofing felt and begin to build a plinth on it from red brick. We calculate the brick consumption according to your building dimensions. On the constructed plinth we again lay roofing felt to isolate moisture from the timber. The base must be insulated. Afterwards, we begin to settle the first row, consisting of logs. It is important to adjust the flax between the bars.

Now approximately 2 m2 is needed around the future bathhouse.

Then we install the logs directly in the bathhouse. Before installation, joists and floor boards must be treated with water-repellent components. If the decision is made to lay tiles, instead of joists we make a floor screed. Filling is done in 2 layers, put reinforcing mesh, fill it with cement mortar, then repeat the process.

Roof

It's time to install the roof on the bathhouse. We prepare the rafters used in the frame, then we lath the made frame. After the roof has been lathed, you can hem the ceiling. We make gables and calculate how much roofing material will be needed (metal tiles, slate).

Furnace installation

The stove should be installed no closer than 0.5 m to flammable structures. All flammable materials must be insulated from the stove with bricks or insulating sheets from floor to ceiling. After about a year, until the timber has completely settled, it is necessary to line the walls with clapboard and attach shelves.

The ceilings must be made high, from 2.5 meters, so that the steam has somewhere to accumulate.

A stone stove, as a rule, weighs 1.5 tons, and it is recommended to make a good quality foundation for it. The firebox in the stove should be more than half a meter, since short logs burn out very quickly. Make several doors for cleaning hard to reach places in the stove. The stove coil needs to be made longer, this will allow for better heating of the room.

Possible number of people in the bathhouse and steam room at the same time. This moment sets the dimensions of the building. Taking into account 3, 4 people, the steam room will be 4 and 6 m2, respectively.

The area of ​​the site where the construction of the building is planned may not be large enough. You need to be more careful and more accurate in your calculations, since often the built bathhouse seems larger and larger than expected.

To prevent cool air from the street from getting inside, you need to build a hallway. When designing a relaxation room, it is advisable that the windows are large enough and located on the west side to illuminate them naturally.

If you use the tips listed above when building a bathhouse, it will last for many years.

We build a bathhouse with our own hands. Stage-by-stage construction demonstration

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Sometimes you really want to leave the hustle and bustle of the city and go to the country. Silence, walks, doing your favorite things - what could be better! If comfort is provided at the dacha, you want to come again and again. One of the comfortable living conditions at the dacha is a bathhouse.

Construction can, of course, be entrusted professional builders. However, it is quite possible to build and improve a bathhouse on a summer cottage on your own. This eliminates additional expenses and allows you to carry out finishing and landscaping in full accordance with your desires and preferences. Therefore, this task is not easy, but quite within the capabilities of a novice builder. A self-built bathhouse will delight the owners even more. So, how to build a bathhouse yourself?

Firstly, as with any construction, you first need to decide on the project and the materials from which the bathhouse will be built. The choice of base material for construction depends on geographical location and operating conditions, as well as on your own capabilities.

Bathhouses are made of brick, aerated concrete and other stone materials; some prefer frame bathhouses, however, many novice builders prefer to build a bathhouse from wood. This one is light and durable material does not require a serious and expensive foundation, but has excellent characteristics. With proper care, operating the bathhouse will not cause much trouble.

And of course, preference should be given to timber - a bathhouse made of this material will retain all the advantages of a wooden structure and eliminate the problems and additional costs that may arise when building walls from logs. Constructing walls from timber is similar to working with a constructor - it can have different geometric dimensions and cross-section (rectangle, square, semicircular), and also, in the case of profiled timber, there are grooves for fastening. Building from timber is easy and convenient - what could be better for a novice builder!

How to choose a place to build a bathhouse.

One of the most important points is the choice of location for the future building. The location must satisfy both existing legislation and ease of use. Basic recommendations that can help you make your choice:

• if there is a body of water nearby, you should not place the bathhouse too close to it, as the building will be in danger of flooding;
• it is necessary to decide how the bathhouse will be located relative to the house: a separate building or will it be attached to it, since each option has its own positive and negative sides;
• it is believed that it is better to build a bathhouse in the backyard, in relative privacy;
• It is necessary to provide for mandatory ventilation during construction, as well as to provide for wastewater disposal;
• It is highly not recommended to determine the location next to a nearby road;
• when placing a building, it is necessary to take into account the cardinal directions and the direction of the wind: the best place is the southern part of the site, protected from the wind so that it does not disturb vacationers, it is better to have windows facing west;
• It is desirable that the bathhouse be located at some distance from other buildings, and if it is an extension to the house, be sure to follow the rules during construction fire safety, as, indeed, during the construction of a separate building;
• when determining the location of the bath and its size, it is necessary to observe established by rules distances from the boundaries of the site so that neighbors do not experience discomfort in the future and do not make claims to the owner;
• It is recommended to maintain a distance to the water intake (well or borehole) of no more than 20 meters.

At the beginning of construction, it is highly advisable to make a project that should, among other things, determine optimal area the buildings.

It is believed that the estimated area for 1 person should be approximately 5 sq.m. Thus, if the expected number of visitors to the bathhouse is 4 people, its total area should not be less than 20 sq.m.

The minimum composition of the premises is as follows: steam room, washing room, relaxation room and dressing room. It is important to determine the most convenient location of these rooms relative to each other, as well as their geometric dimensions.

First you need to complete several diagrams and drawings:

— overall plan buildings;
— drawings of each room separately;
— diagram of the foundation;
- roofing diagram;
- plan for fastening and laying out timber;
— plan for the installation of the floor and ceiling of the bathhouse;
— installation diagram of the furnace, taking into account its design features.

All the necessary drawings can be completed independently, and can also be found in many open sources. As a rule, bathhouses made of timber have similar designs and you can easily choose the most suitable one. If you wish and have the necessary budget, you can entrust the design to a professional architect or builder.

Selection of building materials.

Below is a list of materials that will be needed to build a bathhouse from timber:

a) timber 150x150 mm, although it is possible to use timber with a cross-section of 100 mm or 200 mm;

b) batten(edged board 150x50 mm 4 meters long is perfect);

c) hardwood boards for ceiling construction (usually lining with a width of 100 mm and a thickness of 20 mm or more is used);

d) material for wall decoration (as a rule, the same lining is used);

e) material for vapor barrier (an excellent option would be to use a vapor barrier film);

e) waterproofing (it is advisable to use penofol, although polyethylene film is suitable);

g) ceiling insulation (mineral wool materials are a good option);

h) sheet asbestos for insulating wooden structures from temperature influences, including for walls near the stove and elements located next to the chimney;

i) cement, sand and crushed stone for foundation construction (recommendation - cement should be purchased before starting construction);

j) roofing material for the roof, which can be selected based on personal preferences and the main thing is that it fits seamlessly into the surrounding roofs of other buildings;

l) insulation for the inter-crown space (it is better to use jute, although moss or tow are perfect).

The best time to start construction is spring, since after completion of the main construction work it is necessary for the timber to dry and shrink. This requires at least 6 months.

Do-it-yourself sauna - step-by-step instructions.

Step I – preparing the area for construction.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to clear the site - remove bushes, stumps, remove debris and everything that will interfere with the foundation work.

Step II - building the foundation.

It is best to build a bathhouse made of timber on a columnar foundation, which is inexpensive and excellent for the construction of small wooden and frame buildings.

When constructing it, you first need to dig the estimated number of holes for installing supports. Their number is calculated as follows: supports must be installed in the corners of the building and at the intersections of walls, as well as with a certain step along their perimeter.

The pitch is selected taking into account the type of soil and the estimated total weight of the structure. The depth of the holes should be 1-1.5 meters, although it may vary depending on the depth of soil freezing in a given area. To perform this type of foundation, in addition to the materials listed above, you will need asbestos-cement pipes and fittings.

At the bottom of the pit it is necessary to pour a mixture of sand and crushed stone 10-15 cm thick. Then install an asbestos-cement pipe of the required length into it, strictly vertically, and secure it. Several reinforcement bars should be placed inside the pipe.

After this, pour concrete solution into the pipe and into the free space between the walls of the pit and the pipe.

After pouring the solution, you need to wait a few days, then lay a half-brick thick wall between the pillars.

Step III – erection of walls and arrangement of the roof.

The traditional material for the construction of bathhouse walls is timber measuring 150x150 mm. Before laying the first crown, it is imperative to put waterproofing on the foundation. The lower part of the crown must be treated with an antiseptic. Most often, the timber is laid out using the “paw” method.

The first crown must be carefully aligned according to geometric parameters - all angles must be exactly 90 degrees. After the first crown is erected, they begin laying the beams for the set of walls. When laying out the walls, you need to make openings for future doors and windows and be sure to insulate each row with the selected thermal insulation material.

To connect the crowns, dowels are used - metal or wooden pins.

After the walls are removed, the roofing is installed. Depending on the chosen roof shape, it is necessary to fix the rafters, which are attached to the upper crown with brackets.

When installing a single-pitched sloping roof, the rafters are secured either by two external or one external and one internal supports. When erecting a gable roof, it is necessary to securely support the rafters from below to the wall, and connect them together from above to form a roof ridge.

Sheathing boards are attached to the fixed rafters, then hydro- and vapor barriers and insulation are laid on them.

The roof installation is completed by installing the selected roofing material.

Step IV - interior finishing work.

Interior decoration must begin with the installation of communications - sewerage, water supply, electricity. You should worry about sewerage even when designing and constructing the foundation.

It is necessary to dig a drainage well next to the future bathhouse, which includes a sewer pipe buried in the ground with a slope to remove wastewater from the washing compartment.

After the sewerage installation is completed, a finishing floor is made, which is made of wood or concrete. Concrete floors are more durable and are most often faced with tiles or porcelain stoneware.

If at interior decoration If a wooden floor is chosen, it is usually made to leak. To do this, floor boards are nailed to the installed joists with a small gap, or a small drain hole is installed in the floor, covered with a grate.

In this case, the floor must be made with a slight slope towards the drain. Then the water that gets into the drain will be discharged through the sewer pipe into the drainage well.

After installing the sewer system, it is necessary to perform insulation, hydro- and vapor barrier of the walls and ceiling using appropriate materials, install electricity and water supply.

After installing windows and doors, then finish the room using, for example, lining.

After finishing is completed, you need to install the necessary electrical appliances.

Step V - installation of the stove and shelves.

There are a great many options for placing shelves; you just need to follow the recommended dimensions and the fact that they should be made of hardwood. The installation principle is simple - a stable frame is mounted, usually made of timber, and boards are attached to it.

The stove must be installed in full compliance with fire safety requirements. Wooden structures must be insulated from the high temperatures of the operating stove and chimney. If the furnace is heavy, it must be installed on a specially equipped foundation. This is determined on a case-by-case basis depending on the oven selected.

The stove is selected depending on the preferences of the owner. This can be a traditional wood-burning heater, a metal wood-burning or electric stove; sometimes it is advisable to choose a gas stove for a sauna.

Step VI - choosing accessories

There are many accessories for a bath.

The main ones are:

— brooms (oak, birch and others);
- containers (buckets, basins);
- a wooden ladle for adding water;
— wooden gratings for the floor and much more.

Can add additional personality interior decoration premises, which remains at the discretion of the owner - here, depending on desires and financial capabilities, you can give free rein to your imagination.

It should be added that all of the listed accessories can be made independently. The bathhouse is a great place to spend time in a pleasant, friendly company or with your family. It will be much more pleasant to realize that all this was done with your own hands, including useful and necessary equipment: for example, hangers, lamps or ventilation grilles.

Enjoy Your Bath!

Video about building a bathhouse yourself.