The Swedish stove is in order. Swedish stove with oven and stove - choosing the appropriate model and the details of independent construction. Criteria for choosing the design of a heating and cooking furnace

Read in the article

Installation nuances

Foundation. Must be located below floor level. These are two rows of bricks with slightly widened seams (but not more than 13mm). Hydro- and thermal insulation. Basalt cardboard (3 layers) works well.

Fire safety. The distance from the smoke duct to walls made of flammable materials is at least 37 cm. And this wall should not contain:

communications;
electrical wiring;
gas pipeline;
water supply

To avoid making such an indentation, you can make a brick wall between the stove and the wall. The laying of Swedish stoves should end 35 cm before reaching the ceiling. The side on which the combustion doors are located must be at least 120 cm from the nearest wall.

Swedish stove with wall installation

Firebox. Its walls must be made of fireclay bricks.

Floors. It is better to leave a small gap between the pipe and the ceilings. So that there is no pressure on the stove laying if the house suddenly shrinks. The resulting gap is closed with insulation.

Many summer residents do not dare to decorate their country house with a stove, citing the fact that no one lives there in winter. However, during the off-season, problems often arise with heating the house. A brick stove for a summer cottage with your own hands is a very real option to save money and get complete comfort.

For information on how to assemble a long-burning stove with your own hands, see here. Drawings and technical nuances during construction.

The compact Buleryan stove is quite suitable for heating a country house. In this article http://microklimat.pro/otopitelnoe-oborudovanie/pechi/buleryan-svoimi-rukami.html you will find step-by-step assembly instructions, and also learn about the types of its execution.

Furnace construction procedure

The layout of the stove in question is carried out in accordance with the order. This, as already noted, is a special diagram on which the order of laying out each row of the structure is indicated. There are standard procedures. If you do not have the skills to lay out ovens, it is strongly recommended to use one of the standard schemes.

A well-designed order will allow you to significantly reduce the time and money spent on stove construction. The work will be carried out in a precise and easy to understand manner to ensure maximum efficiency.

Having figured out the order of the Swedish stove before the start of construction, you will be able to lay out the unit yourself, without involving third-party craftsmen in the work and without spending money on paying for their labor.

The detailed order additionally indicates which materials should be used and at what stage of the work.

Study the proposed order and additionally pay attention to the following points:

The design of the Swedish stove includes a blower. This point must be remembered in the process of independently arranging the stove;
The first row of bricks must be laid perfectly evenly. Any displacements will lead to various violations that will negatively affect the quality and reliability of the finished furnace unit. To check the evenness of the masonry, use a building level;
The correctness of the angles must be checked - they must be strictly 90 degrees. Check the angles using a suitable tool called a square.

The reliability, efficiency and durability of a Swedish oven largely depends on the correct layout of the first row; remember this.

Where to install the stove

A Swedish stove with a stove will fit well between two adjacent rooms, for example, as a separation between the kitchen and the living room. The part where the stove and oven will be located goes into the kitchen, and the back part, where you can equip a seating area and even a fireplace, goes into the living room. Thus, you will get a Swedish stove with a stove bench.

In principle, the Swedish stove can be installed anywhere in the room where heating, cooking, and also the addition of a decorative element are required. In cases where the cooking function is not required, you can consider the stove option as a decorative element and build a structure, for example, together with a fireplace and decorate it with finishing material, for example, natural stone.

Thus, this design is a fairly practical option, since when using a stove for cooking, the generated heat will not be wasted, but will be spent on heating the room.

Semicircular Dutch oven

Swedish stove made of concrete in a country house

Swede cap

In furnace manuals (not many, however), the furnace hood is sometimes defined as the part of it into which flue gases enter from below and exit from below. True, but this is just the tip of the iceberg. The role of the hood in the furnace is twofold.

Firstly, under the arch of the bell, gaseous fuel particles are retained and burn out, increasing the efficiency and heat transfer of the furnace. To perform this function properly, the roof arch must be arched, i.e. rounded. Under a flat roof, 100% afterburning cannot be achieved.

Secondly, the exit of the firebox into the bell is made in the form of a tapering nozzle - a heil. The mouth of the hail (its upper cut) is located HORIZONTALLY, although the channel of the hail can also be inclined. This gives rise to the so-called gas view: heavy cold air cannot pass under the hood, like water cannot pass into the hatch of a diving bell-caisson. If you don’t close the standard view after heating (which 100% saves you from burning out), then the stove will slowly cool down as if nothing had happened.

If the mouth of the hill is inclined, local convection immediately develops, as if cold were drawn from the crack under the door. The tilted caisson floods with water, causing it to capsize and sink - submariners have many scary stories about this - and the furnace with the inclined mouth of the hail quickly cools down when the view is open.

Now let's get back to the Swede. From the diagram at the beginning it is clear that the hood, as such, is simply nowhere to be installed - there is a stove with a drying niche. Afterburning of the fuel is ensured in a different way, and the combustion part is connected to the smoke circulation by a conventional vent with a vertical cut. It may be possible to reconfigure everything and get a bell-type oven with a hob, but its thermo- and gas dynamics will be completely different. Perhaps such a hypothetical stove will turn out better than the Swedish one, but it will no longer be Swedish.

"Two-bell Swede"

For an example, see fig. “Hilo” is highlighted with a red gradient. Two seemingly caps are also visible, but where is the mouth with a horizontal cut? The caps here are simply expansion chambers without any possibility of arranging a gas view. If such a “two-cap Swede” retains heat with the view open, then the cannon can fire from around the corner. Because a gun shell in flight describes a curved trajectory, artillerymen know.

Swedish heating and cooking stove project

Before you start work, here are some tips from a stove maker on laying Swedish stoves with your own hands:

Before starting work, print out the order on a printer and, in order not to get confused, when laying out the next row, circle or cross it out on the plan.
When laying the foundation, it is very important to check its level for horizontalness. However, you need to periodically check all further rows with the level.
Each brick is dipped in water for 15 seconds before being laid. But you can’t soak the bricks!
Starting a new row, lay all its bricks in place without mortar, check the dimensions, adjust, and only then lay out the row.
The grinder cuts the bricks of the desired shape very smoothly, but this creates a lot of dust, so it is better to prepare all the halves and quarters in advance in the open air.

Arrangement diagram for a Swedish heating and cooking stove with an oven

Let's consider the order of a brick Swedish stove with an oven with your own hands.

1 row. Solid (28 red bricks).
2nd row. Duplicate (if in the previous row all the bricks were whole, then here there are many halves and ¾).
3rd row. They are marked with bricks: on the left is the ash chamber, on the right is the space under the oven (a quarter of a refractory brick is laid here) and in the background are vertical channels. Doors are installed: ash pan (25 x 14 cm), three for cleaning (14 x 14). Several bricks are installed on an edge. Red brick - 19 pcs.
4 row. Vertical channels are still combined. The ash chamber is being expanded. Half a refractory brick is placed in the space under the oven. 14.5 red bricks in a row.
5 row. The doors of all channels and chambers are closed. The ash chamber is lined with refractory bricks (this will be the bottom of the firebox). An opening is left for the grate (a corner is cut around the perimeter of the hole, into which the grate is placed). 16 red + 8 fireclay bricks.
6th row. The firebox door is installed and the vertical channels are separated. Between the firebox and the oven there is a wall the size of a quarter of a refractory brick. The oven is being installed. 13 red + 3.5 fireproof.
7th row. Duplicate.
8 row. The fireproof seals off the entrance to the channel behind the oven. 13 red + 5 fireproof.
9 row. Two bricks are laid above the firebox door, one of which is cut obliquely from below, and the other from above. 13.5 red + 5 fireproof.
10 row. The oven door is closed in a similar manner to the previous row. The wall between the firebox and the oven is not laid out. A corner is selected in the bricks for installing the slab. A corner (1 m 20 cm long) is installed on the front part of the stove. 15 red, 4.5 fireproof.
11 row. A cooking chamber is formed. 16.5 red.
12 - 15 row. Duplicate.
16th row. Preparing to cover the cooking chamber. A 70 cm is placed in the front part. corner, and above the camera there are three corners of 90.5 cm each. 14.5 red.
17th row. The cooking chamber is tightly closed, leaving only an exhaust hole the size of half a brick. 25.5 red.
18th row. Duplicate. Another corner is being installed. 25 red.
19 row. Expandable: exhaust duct, drying chambers, vertical channels. 16 red.
20, 21 row. Duplicate.
22 row. The smaller drying chamber is covered with a steel plate 19 x 34 cm. 16 red.
23 row. A place for the valve is cut out above the ventilation hole. valve 13 x 13 cm. 17 red.
24 row. Two vertical channels behind the oven are combined. 15.5 red.
25 row. The steam exhaust channel is combined with a vertical channel behind it. 15.5 red.
26 row. All cameras and channels are being expanded. 90.5 cm is installed in the front part. corner. Two strips of 65 cm each are laid above the drying chamber. An angle is cut out in a large steel sheet (80 x 90.5) to the size of the corner vertical channel. A sheet is laid, covering the entire surface of the oven, including the two channels behind the oven. A distance of half a brick is left uncovered on all sides.
27 row. Solid, covering the entire area except the vertical channel. On all sides, the brick now “overhangs” the previous rows by 2.5 cm. 32 red.
28 row. Another continuous row, the bricks “overhang” even more on all sides (by another 2.5 cm). 37 red.
29 row. Continuous row, original oven size. 26.5 red. The furnace body is complete.
Row 30 The base of the pipe is formed. A corner is cut out of the bricks to the size of the smoke valve. The valve is installed. 5 red.
Row 31 and beyond. Pipe extension.

Used oil is an excellent type of fuel; besides, waste oil can save a lot of money when heating a room. Do it yourself oven using waste oil. manufacturing of stoves, operating rules, as well as the pros and cons of use.

Read this article about using an induction furnace to heat a room.

What is needed to build a heating device

The oven, which is offered for production, has a width of 1020 mm, a height of 2170 mm and a depth of 880 mm. The choice of these parameters is determined by the size of standard bricks - when laying the unit, you will not have to look for a half or three-quarter piece again, which significantly reduces construction time. It is recommended to use the principle of multiplying the dimensions of the furnace to the dimensions of the red brick when changing its proportions to suit your own needs.

During the laying process you will need both simple red and fire-resistant fireclay bricks

By the way, in Scandinavian countries entire kits are produced for the construction of stoves of any size. This “constructor” includes everything you need, including the mixture for preparing the solution. We will be able to save a little, since from the list of necessary materials given below, a thrifty and thrifty owner will always have something on hand. So, here is a list of what you will need:

500–700 pcs. high-quality red brick of grade M-150 and higher, which must undergo good firing and not have foreign inclusions greater than those required by GOST;
refractory fireclay brick brand ША-8 (its dimensions correspond to red brick, which will facilitate installation);
combustion and blower doors - 1 pc. each;
cleaning doors - 4 pcs.;
pre-furnace sheet with a thickness of 0.5 to 2 mm;
oven;
grate;
cast iron two-burner stove;
metal corner with a shelf of at least 40 mm;
exhaust valve;
sheet steel;
cement;
sand;
construction mesh for reinforcement;
tamping;
boards for formwork;
rule at least 1 m long;
fire-resistant masonry mixture (in extreme cases, it can be replaced with a mixture of clay and sand);
asbestos or basalt sealant.

Furnace casting has a decisive influence on the appearance of the furnace, so why not use the original developments of foundry designers when choosing it?

Tools that will be needed to prepare the solution and actually construct the Swedish stove:

construction hammer-pick;
trowel;
wooden or rubber mallet;
jointing;
construction level;
square;
cord and plumb line;
roulette;
shovel;
containers for solution.

You can’t do without a convenient trowel during the construction process.

A classic Swedish stove, unlike a Dutch stove, is not covered with tiles or tiles. However, nothing prevents you from decorating the stove at your own discretion if the brickwork does not fit into the interior design.

Materials

Over the course of geological history, Sweden has developed rich deposits of excellent fireclay clay based on aluminosilicates, so the Swedish stove was designed taking into account the availability of high-quality fireclay bricks. It is this that makes it possible to develop such a high temperature in the firebox that is necessary for complete afterburning of the fuel under conditions of active heat extraction by the oven.

Fireclay brick

It would be most correct to line the entire firebox with fireclay bricks, starting with the 3rd row and ending with the one laid on top of the slab. But in this case, the stove will turn out to be too expensive - due to the high cost of this material. Therefore, fireclay is usually used only for lining the walls of the firebox from the inside.

Other elements of the chamber part should be laid out of stove bricks (red ceramic solid) grade M200

It is important that the edges of all ½ or ¾ brick blocks are smooth, so they cannot be prepared using a pick-hammer. You need to either cut it with a grinder or purchase it ready-made

Kiln solid brick

A channel convector can be built from ordinary brick: since the afterburning of gases occurs in the chamber part, they enter here at a temperature below 800 degrees.

The solution is mixed using a special type of clay - ordinary clay is not suitable. As a rule, marl is used.

You will also need fireclay clay - the mortar for fireclay bricks will be mixed from it.

Fireclay clay

Mountain sand should be used, which is characterized by a minimum of organic impurities and an angular granule shape. A solution prepared on smooth river sand will quickly crack.

For the construction of a channel convector, a conventional cement-sand mortar is used.

High thermal loads place special demands on the combustion door. An inexpensive model made of sheet steel using the stamping method will quickly become loose. It is better to install a cast iron door with fasteners that are clamped between the bricks.

Stove door: cast iron

If you nevertheless decide to use a stamped door, you need to equip it with such fasteners yourself: two pieces of steel wire (annealed) with a diameter of 3–4 mm and a length of 50–70 mm are welded to each corner of the frame. During installation, these “antennae” are spread apart so that their ends are 40–50 mm apart from each other, and placed in the seams. On top of the stamped door you need to arrange an overlap of a steel angle or strip.

Door installation

Products and materials should be purchased according to the following specifications:

Kiln brick M200: 717 pcs. (excluding chimney).
Fireclay brick, grade Ш8: 154 pcs.
Asbestos cord.
Pieces of equal-flange steel angle 50x5 mm, length 1020–1030 mm: 2 pcs.
Pieces of steel strip 50x5 mm: 3 pcs. 920 mm long, 2 pcs. 54 mm long, 2 pcs. 48 mm long.
Grate with dimensions 200x300 mm.
Door for the firebox, size - 250x210 mm.
Blower door, size - 140x140 mm.
Cleaning doors size 140x140 mm: 8 pcs.
Oven with dimensions 450x360x300 mm.
Chimney dampers size 250x130 mm: 3 pcs.
Cooking plate dimensions 710x410 mm.
Fireplace grate 690–700 mm long. In the absence of a purchased one, you can weld it from a steel rod.
Material for installing a fireproof coating in front of the furnace: steel sheet with a thickness of 1.5 mm or ceramic tiles.

The floor must be protected within a radius of 1.2 m from the center of the fire door.

Swede heating and cooking stoves

Heating and cooking stoves of this type have a fairly simple, and at the same time, well-thought-out design. Such stoves are usually designed for two rooms at the same time. In this case, the front part with the combustion and hob surface faces the kitchen or dining room, and the back side is intended to heat the adjacent room. This could be a bedroom, a living room, and so on. The Swedish stove works according to a simple principle, which becomes clear after examining its design. A standard Swedish stove consists primarily of a combustion chamber. A hob, made primarily of cast iron, is installed on the side above the combustion chamber. The stove has special burners with an adjustable diameter for installing containers used for heating water or cooking. After passing under the hob, incompletely burned gases enter a special chimney system. The chimney in a Swedish stove is designed in such a way that hot air lingers in it for as long as possible before escaping into the atmosphere. Due to this, effective heating of all the walls of the furnace is achieved, which then gradually releases the accumulated heat into the room.

Design Features

The classic Swedish stove, shown in the cross-sectional diagram, consists of the following elements:

a firebox and an ash chamber located underneath it;
cast iron hob;
oven installed on the same level with the grate;
above the stove there is a niche for drying things; if desired, it can be divided into several small compartments - stoves;
a system of vertical channels (smoke circulation) occupies the entire rear part of the heater.

There are 2 indispensable attributes by which the Swede can be unmistakably distinguished from other designs found on the Internet and technical literature. Firstly, this stove does not exist without an oven, and secondly, it always has a network of 3 smoke circuits in the rear.

Reference. Thanks to its successful design, the Swedish stove became the basis for the development of more complex and efficient heat sources. An example is a two-bell heater without an oven by A. Batsulin or a stove with a fireplace in the back by A. Ryazankin, shown in the photo.

A traditional Swedish stove works like this: when wood burns in the firebox, infrared heat from the flame is transferred to the hob, and from it to the air in the room. The other part of the heat, together with the combustion products, passes through the vertical partition, washes the oven body, and then rushes through the passage in the lower part into the channel system. There, the flue gases make 3 revolutions, heating the solid brickwork of the rear wall, and are thrown out through the chimney.

The front niche, located at the top, receives heat from 2 sides - below from the stove and behind from the smoke circulation. Thanks to this distribution and the developed system of heat removal from flue gases, the efficiency of the heating unit reaches 60%. See the video for the design and construction procedure of the classic Swede:

masonry of the stove Swedish Buslaeva masonry order

At the time of writing this article in the spring of 2013, Shvedka type stoves are No. 1 in the ranking of Russian stove makers, although objectively this is of course fundamentally wrong, I will write about this in more detail at the end of this article. Moreover, from the huge variety of their varieties, you can really find tested working diagram You can either from familiar stove makers, or on a trusted website. I’ll say right away that the “Swedish” model presented in the article was put together by me quite recently and showed itself only on the positive side, firstly, it turned out to be quite effective in terms of design, and secondly, with consistently good traction, it stored heat in a country cottage with an area of 40 meters up to 2 days after combustion. In addition, the onset of heat radiation also occurred within the first 15 minutes of the firebox, while the temperature of the oven and hob were beyond praise.

osnovaremonta.ru

Many stove makers of the old school, like me, were always taught the Swedish order of laying bricks on the edge (as if it was beautiful this way and the customers liked it to warm up quickly), time has shown the opposite: laying a stove in the brick floor is much easier to do, more durable and safer to use. For this reason, I posted the drawings of just such a thick-walled “Swedish” and not the old versions of quick heating in 1/4 bricks.

Order drawings of the Shvedka furnace of the K.Ya. Buslaev system

I know of more than 12 different designs for Swedish stoves, of which I personally put together 7. Of these seven, the best for me is the “Swedish”, developed by K.Ya. Buslaev. Laying any Swede is not an easy task with a complex smoke circulation system and increased requirements for proportions and seam dressing. And there can be no mistake here, otherwise there is either a problem with traction or a crazy consumption of bricks for battle 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4, this is not for you simple brick kitchen stove-stove with which you can replay all 3 times in a day. For this reason, I highly recommend using the proven scheme of this particular Buslaev furnace.

osnovaremonta.ru

The furnace is laid mainly with bricks on edge; all the bricks are first soaked in water to achieve a minimum thickness of the seams. Uneven bricks must be pressed together. The size of Shvedka Buslaev is 1160x900 mm, height without pipe is 2100 mm, heat output is 5 kW. The oven is also equipped with a cast iron stove 560x965 mm, a samovar and an oven 600x400x350 mm. A separate foundation is required for the furnace. It has been accurately verified despite the complex five-channel smoke circulation due to careful calculation of the furnace layout, as when firing with gas, condensation does not form at the outlet of the pipe. The mode of self-cleaning and simple repair of the stove has also been thought out.

osnovaremonta.ru

Swedish stove laying requires: about 300 kg of clay-sand mortar and 550 bricks of standard size 250x120x65 A solid foundation is required for the swedish, the brick must be soaked. The furnace is laid in the brick floor (120 mm) up to the 11th row inclusive, then brick on edge (65 mm)

Materials for masonry “Swedish” K.Ya. Buslaeva.

1. - fire door, 21x25 cm - 1 piece;
2. - blower door, 14x25 cm - 1 piece;
3. -cleaning door, 12x12 cm - 3 pcs;
4. - red brick - 550 pcs;
5. - oven 45x25x29 cm - 1 piece;
6. - grate 20x30 cm - 1 piece;
7. - valve 25x13 cm - 1 piece;
8. - cast iron stove with 2 burners, 41x71 cm - 1 piece;
9. - hood damper 13x13 cm - 1 piece;
10. - fireclay brick SHA-8-30 pcs;
11. - steel corner 45 x 45 x 700 – 1 piece;
12. - steel corner 45 x 45 x 905 – 5 pcs;
13. - steel strip 50 x 5 x 650 – 2 pcs;
14. - drying shelf 190 x 340 – 1 piece;
15. - drying chamber covering sheet 800 x 905 – 1 pc.
16. - pre-furnace sheet 500 x 700 mm – 1 pc.

Just in case, I’ll write that the glory of the Swedes is somewhat exaggerated; they are inferior to modern bell-type furnaces in efficiency and heat capacity, besides Tavo there are designs that are similar but more improved, for example Moskvichka stove You can also look for a selection in the section ready-made diagrams of 20 furnaces .

Swede stove turnkey price in Moscow and the Moscow region

turnkey Swedish oven price

Be sure to read my articles:

Popular barbecue with cauldron
Overview of BBQ areas
Construction of the BBQ area

Dear friends. Separately, I would like to dwell on the service and turnkey Swedish oven price. Often the customer asks if we carry out turnkey masonry work. The term “turnkey” itself means that you pay money and get results. This should include work on the foundation, the purchase of materials and the construction work itself.
But this is only the first moment. The cost of materials will definitely be inflated - I often communicate with construction crews and foremen at construction sites where we work

laying barbecue complexes,

and we know that many foremen and builders have unspoken agreements with sellers of building materials. When a builder comes to the store, he will be given the material with any receipt. This means that the builder will be in the clear before you, since he has accounted for your receipts. But in fact, he put the difference between the store price and the price that the store indicated on the receipt in his pocket.
Let's move on: constructing a foundation for the furnace. These works are quite simple, and personally I (like any other stove maker) would prefer to do

In a whole day I will earn an order of magnitude more by building a furnace than by pouring a foundation. That is why all the stove makers who will offer you turnkey Swedish oven price- will definitely increase the cost of foundation installation services.
I don’t recommend Turnkey Construction to you. How will work with me work: after agreeing on the task, I draw up a list of materials, and you independently purchase bricks, clay, and fittings. It’s difficult to make a mistake here, I describe everything in detail, moreover, I’m always in touch and will answer you if you are in the construction market. Brick from a certain factory is difficult to counterfeit - there are many Lode brick dealers in Moscow and the Moscow region. This way you will be absolutely sure that you will not overpay for materials - you can go to absolutely any construction company that is closer to your site.
Purchase materials yourself. This will save you 10-15% of the amount quoted by the turnkey stove maker
Any local handyman can pour the foundation. Of course, I draw up technical specifications for these workers - and under your control they carry out this work. It will definitely cost less than from a stove maker. But it’s simply inconvenient for me to do such work: I need to pour the foundation, then leave to let it settle, then come again to lay out the stove.

To the origins of the popularity of Swedish cooking stoves

The classic Swedish stove is both beautiful and functional

According to existing legend, the first Swedish stove was built in Russia by soldiers who were captured during one of the battles of the Northern War, which was started by the Swedish king Charles XII back in 1700. However, this is nothing more than a myth, since there is documentary evidence that the heating device, known in our country as the “Swedish”, was developed in a distant northern country in 1767. The order of the Academy of Sciences was issued by King Adolf Frederick of Holstein-Gottorp. Perhaps this is what contributed to the preservation of historical materials about the development of a new wood-burning stove. The reasons that prompted the King of Sweden to personally deal with such mundane issues were quite prosaic. The fact is that the dense forests that the Swedes were so proud of in the Middle Ages had already been thoroughly cut down by this time - the wood was actively used in military and housing construction, and the Swedes simply did not know any other fuel at that time. The homes of ordinary people were most often heated by hastily built brick fireplaces that required constant heating. By the way, the stoves of the nobility were also not particularly economical - at best, they used voluminous “Dutch stoves”, which at that time were very gluttonous.

Using the proverb that has survived to this day that “everything new is a well-forgotten old,” Swedish scientists did not hesitate for a long time with the design. The basis was a well-studied Dutch oven, which was carefully remodeled during the work.

The changes primarily affected functionality - the “Swedish” was equipped with a pita for cooking, an oven and practical niches, one of which was intended for drying clothes, and the other was used to ensure that cooked food remained warm all day. This arrangement was extremely convenient for small houses, since the stove, installed in the wall between the kitchen and the room, provided all the heating needs of an ordinary family.

The high functionality of the Swede can be complemented by a comfortable and warm bed

Initially, several modifications of Swedish stoves were developed, which, with minor changes, have survived to this day:

heating and cooking unit with only one stove;
Swedish with stove and oven;
a wood-burning heating device equipped with a stove, an oven (one or two) and a water heating tank;
double-sided stove-fireplace - the cooking part of the stove is located in the kitchen, and the decorative part opens into the hall or living room;
Swede with a couch.

In addition, depending on personal wishes, the stove, as before, may have one or two niches located above the stove.

Swedish stove with fireplace

The main design parameters were calculated by Swedish scientists so accurately that they have remained virtually unchanged for several centuries. We can say with complete confidence that it is the correct calculation and well-thought-out design of the Swede that are the root cause of all its advantages:

compact dimensions;
functional and practical design;
high efficiency and heat transfer;
fast heating thanks to simple and effective solutions in the heat exchange part of the unit;
versatility;
undemanding to fuel - you can burn any type of solid fuel, from wood shavings and reeds to coal;
variability of the heating device - its functionality and design can be changed according to your preferences and needs;
ease of operation and maintenance;
efficiency;
possibility of building with your own hands.

The disadvantages of the “Swedish” are the same as those of other channel stoves. First of all, this is rapid cooling when the valve is not closed, as well as the need to periodically clean the channels of the unit from soot. In addition, a wood-burning heat generator places increased demands on construction technology - only new, high-quality brick is suitable for making a “Swede”, and in the process of work, increased concentration, accuracy and maximum efficiency will be required.

Moskvichka stove

There is another type of similar stove with an oven. This is some answer to all foreign similar stoves, which was created by a domestic inventor Victor Pilyush. The stove with the Russian name “Moskvichka” is a universal device with which you can not only heat a room, but also use it as a stove for cooking. V. Pilyush invented 4 types of such stoves. Their production can be carried out in 20 sizes.

The inventor managed to form the structure in such a way that the entire structure works to accumulate heat. This happens due to the heating channel, which is located below.

In the Moskvichka stove, it is possible to install a firebox in two versions:

The firebox operates at space heating .
The firebox is working not only for heating, but also for cooking.

It is worth noting that in the oven of this oven you can adjust the temperature.

Furnace structure

If Russian and Dutch stoves are considered to be the product of folk ingenuity, then the “Swedish” stove has a well-defined team of authors. It was headed by academicians of the Swedish Academy of Sciences K. Konstedt and F. Wörd. The then leadership of the country set a task for the developers: to create a stove that would be better adapted to the cold and humid local climate and fuel shortages than the most common “Dutch stove” in Europe at that time. In addition, the new unit had to be compact in size (the lack of land does not allow the Swedes to build too spacious houses) and be as simple and inexpensive as possible.

What we got in the end consists of two parts: one is a chamber oven, in which the chamber, blown by hot flue gases, is also an oven; the second is a duct convector from a Dutch oven stretched to the sides and placed behind the first part. It seems like nothing complicated, but it took a long time and painstakingly to select and calculate the parameters at which the efficiency of the unit, heating rate and heat transfer would be maximum.

Swedish oven diagram

Let's look at the technical features:

The purpose of the chamber part, in addition to cooking, is to absorb the very first heat generated during the combustion of light fractions of coal and firewood. This is the first difference from the “Dutch”: in it this heat was almost completely thrown out into the chimney, since the brick did not have time to absorb it due to its low thermal conductivity.
The Dutch oven did not have a zone for afterburning such fractions. The “Swedish” was equipped with a kind of hood, in which the gases completely burn out, and for the best absorption of thermal energy, a large metal oven was installed into the brick body of the stove (item 1). Due to the high thermal conductivity of steel, it heats up almost instantly, which made the effect of forced heating possible.
If the cooking niche with the stove installed in it (item 2) is closed with a wooden damper, then the dishes prepared for breakfast and left on the stove will still be warm in the morning. They can be quickly reheated in the oven, which will heat up almost simultaneously with the start of the morning heating.
The oven was also equipped with a spacious drying niche (item 3), in which a couple of sets of very wet clothes can be completely dried overnight.
In order to simplify and reduce the cost of the design of the hilo, which is a rather complex element, Swedish engineers did not use it. A transfer window was simply installed under the oven. This is precisely the reason for the inability of the “Swede” to retain heat for a long time after heating with the view open.
The role of a heat accumulator is played by a vertically elongated channel convector installed behind the chamber furnace. It is designed according to the Dutch principle: inside there is a labyrinth of channels through which flue gases pass before entering the chimney. Here the heat generated during combustion and smoldering of the main mass of fuel is absorbed.

Initially, the channels were made vertical. At the same time, the heating of the lower part of the furnace deteriorated, but the fuel burned to a more complete extent. In the modification with a horizontal arrangement of channels, the bottom is heated much better, but the stove quickly becomes overgrown with soot (a sign of incomplete combustion of fuel). In general, manipulations with the channel part, which does not have any clever thermal devices, do not affect the characteristics of the stove in any way. You can safely vary its size and position relative to the chamber part, so that it becomes possible to heat 3 rooms.

Swedish oven placement option

“Swedish” can simultaneously take on the function of preparing hot water for domestic needs. A heat exchanger in the form of a curved pipe should be installed in the oven - here it will not affect the performance of the oven in any way. The storage tank is placed either in a drying niche or on the roof.

The vaults in the Swedish kiln are made not in the form of arches, but with the help of ceilings made of rolled steel - corners and strips. Typically, stove makers try to avoid introducing metal elements into the masonry - due to the significant difference in the values of the coefficients of thermal expansion of brick and metal.

the arched vault significantly increases the height of the stove, which was unacceptable for low Swedish ceilings;
it leads to a noticeable increase in the cost of the design, since it is a rather complex unit.

As time has shown, the coexistence of brick and steel in a Swedish kiln is quite possible, unless there is direct contact between them: both materials should always be separated by a 6 mm wide seam filled with mortar.

Operating principle and design of the Swedish oven

The compact dimensions of the stove (1020x885x2030mm) allow it to be placed in a small country house or dacha. But despite its small size, these dimensions of a Swedish stove are enough to effectively heat a room of 30-35 square meters.

Depending on the type and type of Swede, the designs will vary. So, for example, to equip a Swede with a sunbed, it is necessary to equip horizontal channels with a winter/summer mode. Thanks to a special valve, which is installed in a straight vertical channel, it is possible to block the latter.

In winter, such a valve closes, and the heat moves in a large circle, warming up the entire stove along with the sunbed. And in the summer, the damper opens a direct outlet for warm air into a vertical pipe through which the gases escape outside. This makes it possible to use only the hob and oven without heating the room.

Swedish stove

The “Dutch” design was taken as the basis for the Swedish stove. This model was already very popular, but it did not allow for effective heating of the room, and the fuel consumption was too high.

Taking into account the harsh climate of Scandinavia, the developers improved the “Dutch” model and added a hob with an oven. Thus, elements were added not only for cooking, but also for heating water and drying clothes.

Whatever the design of the stove - with a sunbed, with an oven or just a stove - the principle of its operation will be the same: channel, like the “Dutch”.

Swedish: scheme

The metal oven is located on the side of the firebox and is designed to directly transfer heat into the room. But cooking and baking is not the main function of the oven.

After lighting the wood, it warms up in literally 5 minutes. The figure shows why the oven heats up so quickly.

Swedish design

Before going down, combustion products heat the oven in the top and sides. On the other hand, the stove is heated by the firebox. The stove warms up from the firebox, heating the room itself.

The upper part was originally designed for the purpose of drying clothes; it is heated by the stove and the ducts running behind it. The channels, going around the entire oven, go into vertical channels and transfer heat to things that are hung out to dry.

How the Swedish oven works

The design of the Swedish stove is the result of improved engineering. Unlike Russian and Dutch stoves, it has a more complex device with high efficiency. It has significantly greater thermal power and heat transfer.

If we take the same amount of material and fold the “Dutch”, we will get a power of 2500 kcal/hour, while the Swede will produce all 3500 kcal/hour. In this case, it will be enough to lay only 2 portions of firewood per day to keep the house warm.

Swedish woman in a modern interior

If in Scandinavia the Swedes were traditionally installed between the kitchen and the bedroom so that on a cold winter night it would warm the room, today in stylish and modern houses you can increasingly find a stone structure that stands between the living room and the kitchen.

At the same time, it performs a double function: it serves for cooking and is the main decorative decoration of the living room. On one side it can be equipped with an oven, and on the other with an open fireplace, decorated with an openwork forged damper.

Swede with fireplace

The high efficiency and efficiency of the stove is due to a complex smoke exhaust system, which allows rational use of the heat generated by burning wood. One of the undeniable advantages of the design is the ability to create winter and summer versions of the stove.

The fact is that each type has its own smoke path. This makes it possible to cook food in summer without heating the room.

Many summer residents are familiar with the situation when, at the beginning of the heating season, when lighting the stove, the room begins to smoke. There is also a separate smoke exhaust system, which allows you to effectively use the stove with different functions in both winter and summer.

Structural and functional features

The main advantage of a Swedish brick stove is its compactness - even “tiny” ones can cope with the maintenance of residential premises. In this model, combustion products are delivered to the pipe through a channel chimney. Bell elements located above the drying chamber and firebox are responsible for heat exchange. If a Swedish stove is installed with an oven, the latter is placed on the same level as the firebox, which ensures quick heating.

You can bake a Swedish stove with your own hands without specialized qualifications, you just need to be careful

Hob

A Swedish stove with a stove is a traditional configuration; it involves the use of a thick cast iron plate, in which there are 2 lockable burners. Typically, such slabs have standard dimensions of 410x710 mm. The height of the firebox varies between 280-330 mm, the width reaches 350 mm, and the length reaches 550 mm.

Gas channel system

The channels can be horizontally or vertically oriented; the smoke passing through them heats up the structure, and the room is heated from its walls. This is an economical and highly efficient system: the heat that seeps through the pipe in conventional Russian stoves is here directed directly to heating.

If the flue channels in a Swedish heating stove are horizontal, the walls of the structure are heated more evenly. But in this case, more cleaning holes with molded doors will have to be introduced into the system, which will increase the final cost of the masonry.

Vertically located channels can function perfectly with one technical hatch, but here another problem arises - uneven heating of the furnace. The shield in the first channel, into which combustion products are immediately directed, becomes hot faster compared to the third (output). That is, one room may be cooler than another.

The bell-type device works with one cleaning window, the surface of the furnace is evenly heated, and less bricks are required for construction. The unit cools down more slowly, since heat is retained in the upper part of the hoods, and ventilation from the doors is carried out only in the center.

Oven

The large volume of the cabinet allows you to prepare a wide range of dishes, it is convenient to use. The oven is made of cast iron; tin or sheet variations are not acceptable here; it will be needed not only for baking - the special design helps to quickly warm up the room immediately after kindling, if you open the door.

The oven in a Swedish oven is made of cast iron

The box is comparable in size to the size of the firebox; it is mounted in close proximity, but so as not to have direct contact with the flame. The optimal oven wall thickness is 4-6 mm.

Convenient extensions – a couch and a fireplace

Often the heating device is equipped with a fireplace on the front or back side (that is, it will be installed either in the kitchen or in the living room). The chimney can be combined or separate. In the first case, a single structure is formed, it is easier to assemble, and little material is needed. But you can heat it either with a stove or a fireplace. Separate chimneys are not as economical to build, but they allow you to use both heating methods at the same time.

Swede stoves with a stove bench are in great demand. This device is assembled from the back of the unit, its standard length is 7 bricks, width is 3 bricks. The smoke channels passing inside heat this podium when certain valves are opened. Typically, such oven models are not equipped with an oven.

Auxiliary shelves and niches

On the front side, 2 large shelves are built into Swedish models, both located above the hob. The lower shelf heats up more, the upper one uses only the heat transfer of the brick. If you close the niche opening with a wooden or metal door, a kind of low-temperature oven is formed.

Auxiliary shelves and niches in a Swedish oven are often used for drying berries and mushrooms

Simple models use straight horizontal floors. Arched structures look more interesting and can become the highlight of the interior, although they are difficult to assemble and increase the consumption of materials.

Furnace order

Before you start laying the stove yourself, complete a few simple preparatory steps.

First of all soak the brick. To do this, the bricks need to be dipped in clean water and left there for about a day. Water will fill the pores in the brick structure. Thanks to this, the building material will not absorb water from the clay solution in the future.

Prepare a clay solution. It will consist of ground clay, some sand and clean water. The specific ratio of components is selected in accordance with the characteristics of the clay.

It is important that the finished solution has normal plasticity and a uniform structure. On average, it takes about 20 liters of mortar to lay hundreds of bricks

1 row. It was previously noted that this row should be laid out exclusively at the building level with additional checking using a square. Lay out this row in continuous masonry. Inside, it is allowed to use halves of bricks.

2nd row. Lay out in the same pattern as the 1st row. Be careful and do everything in strict accordance with technology, because... the first two rows serve as the base of the furnace, which should be as reliable as possible.

3-4 rows. Continue laying, gradually forming an ash chamber. At the same stage of masonry, the door of the mentioned chamber is installed. Additionally, 3 doors for cleaning hatches and a door for the blower are installed. Place smoke vents on the reverse side of the swede. They are placed in a vertical position and communicate with the combustion chamber through a hole created during the laying out of the furnace.

5 row. Install the finished oven and place a grate of suitable size in it. Form a cover for the cleaning hatches and the blower door.

6-10 row. Lay out the walls of the firebox and oven chamber. A partition made of fire-resistant brick is laid between the combustion compartment and the oven. The brick must be laid on edge. The partition should be a row lower than the chamber itself. After the tenth row is ready, lay a standard steel corner and an additional cast iron slab on the front of the structure. To secure the corner, use steel wire and a 2-centimeter layer of clay mortar.

11 row. Completely complete the closure of the channel through which the cast iron plate and the right wall of the furnace are separated.

12-16 row. Lay out the cooking compartment and 3 vertical flues. Lay out chimney openings from fire-resistant bricks.

17-18 row. Form an overlap over the cooking compartment. To form the ceiling, use the sheet steel laid in the previous stages and a corner made of the same material.

Row 19-20. Attach 2 hatches to the front of the door structure for cleaning the gas exhaust channels.

Rows 21-28. Lay out the chimney ducts. Don't forget to re-tie your stitches. In the process of laying out the 27th row, install a convenient latch. Above the installed smoke damper, leave a technological hole through which the gas ducts will interface with the air ducts.

Row 29-30. Lay out the overlap of the chimney ducts. At this stage, the width of the masonry around the perimeter must be increased by 50 mm. Thanks to this expansion, a cornice will be formed.

31 row. Adjust the dimensions of the overlap to the structural dimensions of the 27th row.

32 row. Start laying out the chimney. The standard chimney design has dimensions of 130x250 mm.

At this point, the laying out of the oven can be considered complete. At the end, all that remains is to complete the installation of the chimney, and also, if desired, to decorate the stove, for example, with paint or ceramic tiles. Additionally, you can buy a variety of accessories, for example, for storing fuel.

Shvedka stove (front view)

Shvedka stove

Shvedka stove (rear view)

Thus, there is nothing complicated about laying a Swedish stove yourself. A detailed order will help you quickly understand the specifics of the work and lay out the stove with your own hands. Follow the instructions, remember to check the evenness of the rows, and everything will work out.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself Swedish oven, ordering

What is remarkable about the Swedish stove

Swedish oven options

According to its purpose, the “Swedish” refers to heating and cooking stoves, and there is every reason to consider it the most successful among them. It is more convenient to cook on it than in a Russian oven, since the housewife does not have to bend over and use a grip. In addition to the hob, there is an oven in which you can prepare baked goods and quickly reheat dishes. And to top it all off, the classic “Swedish” has a niche designed for drying things.

The original model of the Swedish stove

The design of the stove allows its back side, which opens into the living room (the front part with the stove is located in the kitchen), to be equipped with a warm bench or fireplace.

In addition to functional ones, the “Swedish” also has technical advantages:

Fast warm-up.
Simple device and low cost. In this regard, the Swedish stove is comparable to the Dutch one, but has higher efficiency (60% versus 40%) and heat transfer (“Dutch” with a power of 2.9 kW and “Swedish” with a power of 4.1 kW have equal material consumption).
The presence of an oven, which, with the door open, within a few minutes after the start of the fire (even waste fuel can be used), provides forced infrared heating of the wet or frozen user.
Downward smoke circulation after the firebox, providing high-quality heating of the stove not only from above, but also from below.
The temperature of the flue gases in the channel part is low, due to which it can be built from ordinary bricks using cement-sand mortar.
Plastic. Strict canons have to be followed only when constructing the smaller, high-temperature part of the furnace. The rest can be adjusted to almost any home without loss of quality.
The ability to extract heat for preparing hot water without deteriorating the combustion mode in the furnace.
Possibility to “connect” the bed.

The listed advantages can be countered by the following disadvantages:

Due to the significant heat load, the high-temperature part of the furnace has to be built only from the highest quality materials. High demands are also placed on the quality of work (the craftsman must have sufficient experience).
If you forget to close the view after the fuel has completely burned out, the stove will cool down very quickly.
A foundation is required. This is due to the uneven load on individual parts of the furnace and its elongated shape.

Without a reliable foundation, the unit will be unstable.

How does a Swedish stove differ from other stoves?

Now the Swede is very often used in Russia and is considered a classic, although its current design was established not so long ago, somewhere at the end of the nineteenth century. In the homeland of this heating device, winters are no less severe, there is not too much space in living quarters, and zealous residents are accustomed to saving firewood.

The stove is part of the wall

The Swedish stove is designed for a small house with a simple layout (ideally a two-room house). Typically, the power of the heat generator is enough for buildings with an area of 30-50 square meters, provided that two fires are produced per day. The device, as a rule, is erected between the kitchen and the main room, that is, the stove plays the role of a partition. The firebox and ash door, valves, stove and niches are located in the kitchen (this is where the stove is controlled), and the rear plane with the smoke channels faces the room. They try to collect the Swede closer to the center of the house, only occasionally they place it near the outer wall or in the corner.

The shape of the Swedish stove resembles a vertically oriented block cabinet, which has a height of 2 meters, often it rises almost to the ceiling. The model is notable for its modest dimensions on the floor; its length rarely exceeds the threshold of 1300 mm, and its width is 900 mm. That is, we lose only 1 m2 in free space (instead of 3-4, as is the case with a Russian stove). Great potential is hidden in small dimensions; performance seems to be concentrated here. For example, if you make a Dutch brick from the same amount of brick, its thermal performance will be about a third lower. The efficiency of Swedish stoves is almost the same as that of a Russian stove, but they are less material-intensive and much easier to install.

With some preparation, Swedes can successfully install ovens with their own hands, even by non-professionals. Developers have plenty to choose from. Well-known domestic stove designers have developed many modifications that differ from each other both in size/power and layout.

Combined device developed on the basis of the Swedish

Important! Outstanding efficiency has a downside - increased thermal loads and, as a result, special requirements for the quality of materials. For example, it is very desirable to use marl for the solution; the most reliable metal components should be used (cast doors, thick-walled oven boxes and lintels, etc.)

It is imperative to lay out the protected inner walls of the firebox from fireclay bricks - this fire-resistant core is not only not tied to the main masonry, but is also located indented from the ordinary red brick.

Types of Swedes

There are several popular types of Swedish oven.

The stove in the form of a fireplace is designed in such a way that the hob opens into the kitchen, and the decorative part with the firebox and fireplace portal opens into the living room.
Swedish, equipped with a sun lounger. This stove design is quite complex, but in winter it functions as a very cozy and warm bed.
Swedish, equipped with a hob and oven. The back part of such a stove heats the room, and the functional front part is located in the kitchen.

The choice of stove design depends on the area of the room and the functional tasks that it must solve. If the stove is needed exclusively for cooking in the country and is not intended to heat the house in winter, then you can opt for a compact design.

Swede with one plate

If the stove is installed as the main heating device, then it is better to choose a model that can heat several rooms at once.

It should be said that the Swedish stove design is an ideal option for a small country house, in which the owners live not only in the summer.

Of course, it is also suitable for a small cottage. But the Swede gets damp quickly enough, which means it requires constant use. Otherwise, it will have to be dried for a long time each time before putting it into operation, and this significantly reduces its efficiency.

With regular use, such a stove, equipped with a comfortable hob and a functional oven, will become an indispensable household assistant and will give warmth and comfort to the house.

Design and features of the Swedish oven

When developing the “Swedish”, the “Dutch” was taken as a basis; the latter at that time was already quite common and had proven itself well. But since the climate of the Scandinavian Peninsula is harsher than the European one, and there are fewer fuel reserves, the Dutch oven was thoroughly altered and adapted to its conditions, as a result of which the Swedish heating and cooking stove was born.

It partially retained the operating principle of the Dutch stove, but at the same time elements were added that allow you to cook food and dry clothes, and in different types of stove there is also a stove bench. We are talking about different types, since the Swedish stove can be modified and structurally changed, while maintaining the general concept. And the concept provides for a channel principle of operation, like the Dutch one, but with additional devices for heat extraction:

Metal oven.
Hob with niche.
Upper niche.

The photo below shows a diagram of a Swedish oven, on which the listed elements are indicated by the corresponding numbers.

A metal oven is located on the side of the combustion chamber and is designed to take heat from it directly and transfer it to the room. Preparing baked goods is not the main function of the oven; literally 5 minutes after lighting it is already bursting with heat, as soon as you open the door. The diagram shows why this happens. The combustion products, before falling to the floor and leaving, heat the oven body from above and on the sides, and on the other side it is heated by the firebox. This design makes it possible to use any small fuel for heating the house and cooking.

The niche above the stove is heated directly from the combustion chamber, distributing warm air throughout the kitchen. The upper niche, originally designed for drying things, is heated from below from the stove and from the rear from the channels where combustion products pass. The latter, having gone around the oven, exit into a system of vertical channels and there transfer their heat to the body of the oven, after which they are thrown out through the chimney.

Due to the special structure of the smoke channels, the Swede will intensively heat the floors and the soil underneath, which is irrational. For this reason, the heating and cooking stove must be installed on a base with thermal insulation. Sheets of basalt cardboard 5 mm thick are perfect for it; they will need to be laid in three layers with a layer of aluminum foil as a reflective screen.

Placing a Swedish stove in a private house

Since the main heat of the flue gases is transferred to the back wall of the stove, it is customary to install it in the wall between the kitchen and bedroom (or living room). In some varieties of Swedes, a fireplace or a relatively small lounger is installed on the back side. The dimensions of the sun lounger in the Swedish version are 1800 x 660 mm, which is not enough for comfortable rest and sleep.

The Swedish heating and cooking stove with a deck differs from the usual design in the presence of horizontal channels and winter/summer operating modes. This is realized using an additional valve installed in a straight vertical channel. In winter, the valve closes and combustion products move in a large circle, through the horizontal flue ducts of the stove, after which they return to the chimney. In summer, the damper is open and there is a direct path into the vertical pipe, through which the flue gases simply flow out. This way, only the hob heats up.

Recommendations for construction and selection of materials

A Swedish stove, unlike a Dutch stove, cannot be built from waste or used materials, since the stove is carefully designed and calculated for efficient operation. Here it is recommended to use high-quality fireclay and red bricks. At the same time, to lay the combustion chamber, the solution must be mixed from fireclay clay; simple clay from a ravine will not work.

The rest of the masonry mortar also needs to be of high quality, from good clay of medium fat content. It should be stirred thoroughly so that no small lumps remain, until it reaches the consistency of sour cream. You can check the quality of the solution by dropping it from a trowel; a thin layer of material should remain on the surface of the tool.

It will not be a secret to anyone that, due to its weight, a Swedish brick stove requires a good foundation for construction. Such a foundation can be a reinforced concrete slab or a foundation cast from heavy concrete on compacted soil with a compacted backfill. Before starting construction of the stove, the new monolith requires at least 3 weeks to completely harden. Then a waterproofing material (roofing felt can be used) is placed on it, and the thermal insulation described above is placed on top.

The ordering diagram according to which a classic Swedish cooking stove is built is shown below.

Furnace laying diagram

By building this kind of stove, you will heat your house with a power of 5 kW, which is enough for 50 m2. Compared to the Dutch, this figure is 20-25% higher. This will require the following amount of products and materials:

ceramic red brick grade 200 – 540 pcs;
refractory brick – 30 pcs;
ventilation door – 1 piece;
equal angle corner 40 x 40 mm – 5.5 m;
strip steel 50 x 5 mm – 1.4 m;
galvanized steel sheet 0.6 mm thick – 2 m2;
combustion door – 1 pc.

For homeowners interested in a Swede with a sun lounger and two operating modes, a diagram of the order is presented below.

Scheme of laying a stove with a stove bench

Here the work is much more complicated and cannot be trusted to just anyone; at least the experience of a professional mason is required, ideally a stove maker. The video will help you understand in detail the process of laying out the Swede with a bed.

30.06.2017
4023
Pechnik (Moscow)

A Swedish stove with a fireplace is a unique and quite powerful heating device. This design is predominantly made of brick and is erected exclusively in private houses and country houses. This feature is due to the fact that a Swedish stove with a fireplace runs on solid fuel (wood and coal), which in turn creates the need for the obligatory construction of a chimney.

Such a heating unit cannot be called small and light. Due to its rather large mass, it is recommended to install it on the first floors of private houses and, at the preparatory stage, to build an additional foundation not connected with the house itself.

You can learn how to assemble such a stove and its detailed functional features and characteristics from this article, as well as by reading the photo selection.

Characteristic design features

The Swedish stove with fireplace has a number of distinctive design features, which include:

Possibility of economical use and slow combustion of fuel;
Due to the special structure of the internal and external parts of the structure, even after heating ends, the heat continues to be retained by the heating installation itself and is evenly distributed throughout all rooms of the house for some time.

Interesting to know:Swedish fireplaceendowed with the above-mentioned features due to the built-in system, which allows for the high-quality removal of all gases formed during the combustion process. Such structures can operate in one of the required modes, and at the same time heat the room, serve as a decorative item, or provide the opportunity to heat water or cook food on specially installed burners.

The correct combination and selection of bricks plays an important role.

The presence of two elements allows you to advantageously place such a heating unit

Based on your wishes and preferences, when designing, you can simultaneously implement the following functions and elements in this installation:

Installation of a fairly spacious and comfortable lounger;
Embedding a special tank into the internal or external part of the stove, which will heat up during operation and heating, which will allow you to always have hot water at hand;
A Swedish fireplace may additionally have a special drying cabinet. This is very convenient and important. This element can be used for quick and high-quality drying of harvested logs, which are placed in the firewood rack at subsequent stages.

Swedish fireplace stoves manufactured according to the instructions attached to this article include a number of mandatory elements that ensure high-quality and full functioning:

Required components

Purpose

Cooking chamber

A DIY Swedish fireplace stove consists of a cooking chamber. This component is intended for cooking and is represented by several burners built into the structure.

The exhaust mechanism built into the oven allows for automatic high-quality air filtration.

Thus, all combustion products and substances harmful and dangerous to human health do not enter the room, but are discharged directly into the chimney using an exhaust hood.

Oven

Swedish fireplace stoves are equipped with an oven, which, like the hob, is intended for cooking food.

Thanks to such a cabinet, a Swede can easily replace a simple stove.

Heat shield

The Swede with a fireplace has a built-in heat shield, as well as two hearths.

This design has high power due to the presence of several sources of heat supply and distribution, as well as the combination of a fireplace and stove at the same time.

Advice:Swedish stove with fireplaceshould be located on one side (with the hob) in the kitchen. And for convenient and economical use, it can be operated in one of the following modes. To carry out heating in the cold season (autumn-winter), heating is carried out through special channels. In the warm season, all the resulting gas masses are almost immediately discharged into the chimney, thus the room practically does not warm up.

Interesting to know:Swedish stove with fireplacehas medium dimensions (217 by 103 by 88 centimeters), which allows installation in large and medium-sized rooms (from 20-25 square meters). The design of the furnace installation can be of the bell-type or combined type, and the number of channels can also vary (three or five).

Basic operating principles

Swedish fireplace stoves have the following operating principle:

During the burning of wood, smoke is released into the air, which rises up and passes through the open damper, after which it exits through a pre-installed chimney to the street;
When working in the kitchen area, the following happens: firewood burns in a special firebox, which is located directly under the hob. With this method of operation, steam moves between the hob and the oven. The vapors exit through a channel provided on the right side of the oven. There, the gas mass heats up even more and enters the upper part of the furnace, where it is discharged through a horizontal channel. After the structure has been uniformly heated and hot air and gases have sufficiently accumulated in its interior, they exit through the chimney.

Interesting to know:Swedish stove with fireplaceserves not only as a functional heating device and a means for preparing food, but also, thanks to its unusual structure and sufficient dimensions, it can replace a small partition separating the kitchen from other areas in the house. In order to set the final dimensions of the heating unit, do not forget to also add another 0.13-0.15 meters to the protrusion of the main part of the frame to the above parameters. The size of the additional foundation should be slightly larger and wider than the main structure, in this case it is 102 by 102 centimeters.

Construction of an additional foundation

The Swedish stove with a fireplace and boiler has a large mass due to the use of brick. In order for the structure to be distinguished by its strength, reliability and stability, it becomes necessary to install an additional foundation according to the following scheme:

At the first stage, it is necessary to dig a fairly deep pit (at least 0.5-0.9 meters);
The bottom of the dug hole is well and thoroughly compacted with a shovel and leveled;
Pre-prepared sand with a fine fraction is laid in a layer of 10-13 centimeters and also compacted;
The next layer of crushed stone is placed about 15-18 centimeters thick;
In places where the ground is elevated, there is a need to install formwork;
We create a monolithic layer and give it greater rigidity through the use of reinforcing mesh;
Pour in a pre-prepared mixture based on cement and graphite. The second and subsequent layers should be mixed on the basis of cement and sand - this composition makes it more durable and reliable;
We waterproof the completely dry surface with several sheets of roofing material.

You can learn more about building a foundation by watching the video in this article.

Purchase and preparation of materials

Before you build the stove with your own hands, you need to prepare and purchase all the necessary materials:

To erect the structure, it is necessary to purchase about 890 bricks (it is recommended to keep about 50 bricks in reserve, in case the selected brick has significant defects, chips or cracks;
Furnace door (210 by 250 mm) and ash door (140 by 140 mm);
Cleaning doors (four pieces, each measuring 140 by 140 centimeters);
A cleaning door measuring 70 by 140 millimeters and a cast iron tile measuring 410 by 710 millimeters;
A grate with overall dimensions of 175 by 255 millimeters;
Oven (460x360x300 mm).

To erect and build a corner you will additionally need:

540-560 bricks and a damper with dimensions 240 by 130 mm;
Metal mesh structure.

Tip: an integral element of such a furnace is a reinforced concrete slab, of which you will need several pieces.PriceThe cost of constructing such an installation is quite high, but during long-term operation it fully pays off and justifies itself.

Important: in order for the structure to be as reliable and stable as possible, ensure that the seams are even and choose bricks of the same size. It is recommended to pre-lay the brick dry, without mortar, and number each element with chalk.

Installation and assembly of a Swedish stove

In order for the heating unit to be assembled with maximum precision and to have all the elements most necessary for full functioning, we recommend using ready-made step-by-step instructions.

Swede with fireplace order:

The first row is characterized by a continuous type of masonry. Use exclusively solid bricks in size twenty-eight units. Depending on your individual wishes and preferences, carry out the masonry work of this row in the shape of a rectangle or horizontally;
The second row is laid similarly to the first. On the third row, we begin to lay out the ash pan and lower heating and the supports necessary for the channel located vertically. For the third row we will need about nineteen bricks and about 9 pieces of fireclay (we install an ash pan and three cleaning chambers);
In the 4th row we connect each vertical channel to each other. On the 5th row we block all channels and cameras. To block the ash pit, we use exclusively refractory bricks. Do not forget to leave space for the subsequent installation of the grille. At this stage, for the fifth row, eight refractory and sixteen ceramic-based bricks will be used;
On the sixth row we begin to lay out the fuel part and install the oven door. We use 3 refractory bricks and 13 ceramic-based bricks;

Row 7 requires the same number of bricks as in the previous one, with the exception of ceramic bricks, which are one more. We continue to form the fuel chamber;
The eighth row is characterized by closing the entrance to a vertically located channel. We use five refractory bricks, thirteen ceramic;
The 9th row covers the fuel chamber (5 pieces of heat-resistant and 13.5 red solid bricks). On the 10th row, it is necessary to close the oven doors and thereby use fifteen ceramic bricks and four and a half units of refractory material;
At 11 we begin the formation of the cooking chamber (the number of red bricks is sixteen and a half units);
Row 12 - fifteen pieces of ceramics. 13 - fifteen and a half. 14 - fourteen and a half. 15 - sixteen pieces;

To lay the 16th row we will need fourteen and a half units of red brick. Next, we assemble and install one corner, the size of which is 45 by 45 by 700 centimeters. We will also need three more corners of other sizes (45 by 45 by 905 centimeters). Thus, we cover the cooking compartment;
The 17th row is characterized by the construction of a ceiling for the cooking compartment of twenty-five and a half ceramic bricks. On the 18th row, a corner with dimensions of 450x450x9050 millimeters is installed. For this row, prepare 25 units of ceramic bricks;
Drying compartments are mounted on row 19. Don't forget to also install the exhaust duct and ventilation hole (only sixteen bricks are needed). In the next step, we will need a similar number of elements used in the previous paragraph;
To assemble the twenty-first row you will need sixteen and a half elements;
At the next stage, we install a steel plate with dimensions of 190x340 millimeters and use sixteen bricks. At 23, we install and assemble a drying chamber of large and small sizes (seventeen elements);
We connect two vertically located channels together, having previously prepared fifteen and a half bricks. 25 is characterized by the connection of a steam exhaust and a three-meter vertical channel;

Next, we install a corner with dimensions of 450 by 450 by 9050 millimeters and cover the drying chamber (the number of bricks is 16.5). In the 27th row, a larger amount of brick is needed - 32 units. They will be needed to construct the ceiling of the entire heating structure;
At the next stage, we increase the length and width of the oven by a total of 2.5-3 centimeters. We use 5 bricks more than in the previous paragraph. The 29th row is characterized by a return to the previous design parameters. To do this, we lay twenty-six and a half red solid bricks;
Row 30 is the beginning of the construction of the chimney. At this stage we use five ceramic bricks. At the last stage we use five units of red brick.

A Swedish stove with a fireplace, the order of which is presented in this article, has medium dimensions and at the same time quite high power and heat capacity. This design is maximally functional and can include all the most necessary elements, thereby replacing a number of other household and electrical appliances.

At the time of writing this article in the spring of 2013, Shvedka type stoves are No. 1 in the ranking of Russian stove makers, although objectively this is of course fundamentally wrong, I will write about this in more detail at the end of this article. Moreover, from the huge variety of their varieties, you can actually find them either from familiar stove makers or on a trusted website. I’ll say right away that the “Swedish” model presented in the article was put together by me quite recently and showed itself only on the positive side, firstly, it turned out to be quite effective in terms of design, and secondly, with consistently good traction, it stored heat in a country cottage with an area of 40 meters up to 2 days after combustion. In addition, the onset of heat radiation also occurred within the first 15 minutes of the firebox, while the temperature of the oven and hob were beyond praise.

Order drawings of the Shvedka furnace of the K.Ya. Buslaev system

I know of more than 12 different designs for Swedish stoves, of which I personally put together 7. Of these seven, the best for me is the “Swedish”, developed by K.Ya. Buslaev. Laying any Swede is not an easy task with a complex smoke circulation system and increased requirements for proportions and seam dressing. And there can be no mistake here, otherwise there is either a problem with traction or a crazy consumption of bricks for battle 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4, this is not for you with which you can replay all 3 times in a day. For this reason, I highly recommend using the proven scheme of this particular Buslaev furnace.

Materials for masonry “Swedish” K.Ya. Buslaeva.

- fire door, 21x25 cm - 1 piece;
- blower door, 14x25 cm - 1 piece;
-cleaning door, 12x12 cm - 3 pcs;
- red brick - 550 pcs;
- oven 45x25x29 cm - 1 piece;
- grate 20x30 cm - 1 piece;
- valve 25x13 cm - 1 piece;
- cast iron stove with 2 burners, 41x71 cm - 1 piece;
- hood damper 13x13 cm - 1 piece;
- fireclay brick SHA-8-30 pcs;
— steel corner 45 x 45 x 700 – 1 piece;
— steel corner 45 x 45 x 905 – 5 pcs;
— steel strip 50 x 5 x 650 – 2 pcs;
— drying shelf 190 x 340 – 1 piece;
— drying chamber covering sheet 800 x 905 – 1 pc.
— pre-furnace sheet 500 x 700 mm – 1 pc.

close ×

Stoves have long been used by residents of rural regions for heating and cooking. Then the tradition of building in a house migrated to the city. Nowadays, such designs are mainly used in dachas or private homes. The classic Russian stove is being replaced by another stove - a Swedish stove, which is superior to Russian and Dutch stoves in numerous respects. For example, a stove that came from Sweden is distinguished by its compact dimensions, economical use of fuel, greater heat output, etc.

The Swedish stove is used not only for heating the room, but can also act as a mini-kitchen. To do this, you need to install a hob on a folded platform or equip an oven. This multifunctional design allows you to both cook and heat the entire house.

The designers of the Swedish brick kiln took into account the peculiarities of the Scandinavian climate, which is characterized by dampness. In fairly cold conditions, it was necessary to quickly warm the house, dry clothes, and prepare food. Therefore, the design has a special partition that allows the stove to be used in two rooms at once. This is the main difference between a Swedish oven and a Dutch oven.

In addition to the above-mentioned advantages, the design has a number of positive qualities, among which it is worth noting such as:

The firebox, made in the form of a bell, ensures proper combustion of fuel, long-term maintenance of heat and smoldering of firewood.
You can install an additional hob on a Swedish stove with a stove.
The stove is installed between the kitchen and living room, which allows you to warm the room while cooking.
You can install a water circuit on the stove, which will allow you to use it for heating a house or bathhouse.
High efficiency of fuel combustion. It is allowed to use firewood, reeds, and small wood. These types of fuel have increased heat transfer, so your home will always be warm and dry.
The Swede warms up within 10-15 minutes after the fuel is ignited. In order to retain heat for as long as possible, it is necessary to close the valve tightly.

A Swedish stove for a country house is the most suitable option for heating and cooking food and heating water. While there are a large number of advantages, it is necessary to note the presence of certain disadvantages:

First, you need to carefully select the material. It must be of high quality. Fireclay brick is not suitable, which affects the duration of heat retention.
Secondly, construction must be approached carefully, involving specialists who will be able to correct mistakes at the bricklaying stage.
Thirdly, you should not skimp on specialists who will help you start the heating system. Otherwise, the oven will not function as it should.
Fourthly, it gets damp quickly, so the stove must be constantly in use. If this does not happen, then the structure must be thoroughly dried before heating.

Characteristics

Unlike the Dutch, the Swede has compact dimensions:

Height varies from 2030 to 2170 mm.
The width can be between 880-885 mm.
Height - from 1010 to 1020 mm.

This small Swedish stove is very easy to assemble with your own hands and is capable of heating a room of up to 30-35 m2.

There are several types of Swedish stoves, which differ in the nature of their assembly and functional purpose. Furnaces are divided into the following groups:

A Swedish fireplace with a hob that faces the street. Inside the room there is a firebox and a fireplace portal. This type is usually installed in the living room.
Swedish stoves with deck chairs. Suitable for cold regions and small rooms where there is not enough space. The lounger can act as a bed.
Stoves with hob and oven. Such structures are installed between the kitchen and the room.

Before you build a brick stove with your own hands, you need to find out the dimensions of the house and draw up a drawing indicating the location of the stove on it. This will save time on redesigning the design.

For country houses, it is best to choose a Swede that will not be equipped with a heating system.

In winter, people rarely come to their dacha, so there is no need to install an expensive structure. But for a country house, it is better to install a stove model that will allow you to both cook and heat the entire house.

Design and operating principle

The Swedish heating and cooking stove was made on the basis of the Dutch one, which did not have an oven, hob, place for drying clothes and heating water.

The principle of operation of the Swede, without reference to models, is one - channel. The firebox oven is located on the side, allowing heat to be transferred directly into the room. When the wood begins to give off heat, then it gradually begins to heat the oven and the side, and only then goes down.

The upper part of the Swedish stove heats up very quickly, due to the fact that the heat transfer channels are located at the back of the panel.

The efficiency of the Swedish model significantly exceeds the productivity of the Dutch one. For example, if a Dutch woman gives off about 2.5 thousand kilocalories of heat per hour, then a Swede gives off 3.5 thousand kcal. To do this, it is enough to put several portions of firewood into the firebox during the day, and the heat in the house will remain for 24 hours.

High-level economics and efficiency in a Swedish-assembled stove are ensured thanks to a rather complex smoke exhaust system. As a result, it is simply rational to use heat in winter and summer, setting a different type of construction for each season.

If the stove is provided with a deck, then the heat transfer channels must be installed in a horizontal position. A special valve is installed next to the channels, which helps regulate the heat supply in summer and winter. The valve can be rotated in a horizontal or vertical position, depending on the season. In horizontal mode, the heat will go directly to the sunbed, and in summer - into the chimney.

The design of the Swedish stoves may differ, depending on the model, but the following elements are required in the stove:

An oven that is intended for heating. The oven is made in the form of a hood, thanks to which the flame from the fuel does not touch its walls, but is immediately transferred to the heating elements. The so-called flue gases go down, so the stove is heated from the floor.
The upper niche, which is heated by the heat of the first or second level. This space is usually used to dry clothes.
A niche above the stove, which is made above the hob. You can put cooked food here to keep it hot in the morning.
Smoke circulation, made in the form of a special flow window. This should be done from the bottom of the oven.

Fuel types

The structure is built in a house for more than one year, so only high-quality bricks must be used for laying the stove, and heating must be carried out only with approved materials. The efficiency and amount of heat generated depends on this. Different types of fuel provide different amounts of heat, and this must be taken into account when choosing how to heat a room. The most common types of fuel for Swedes include:

Wood of different species. It is worth considering that birch, oak, beech, and maple can provide much more heat than pine, aspen or alder. Firewood must be dried so that it produces a lot of ash and not smoke.
Peat, which can be pressed, lump, carved, milled. It is best to use pressed peat, the briquettes of which are highly dense. As a result, a few pieces are enough to maintain heat for a long time. In terms of heat transfer, peat is close to wood. The amount of thermal mass released depends directly on how correctly the peat was dried and pressed.
Coal, for which a special grate must be placed on the Swedish stove. Its elements must be heated by coal, which gradually burns.

Do-it-yourself Swedish oven

Before assembling the “Swede”, it is necessary to draw up an exact diagram of the order of the stove, indicate the places where the oven, hob, chimney, and air ducts will be located. The easiest way is to assemble a cooking-heating stove yourself, which will have all the necessary components. The hob and oven are made of glass, and the oven door is made of glass.

Materials

To assemble a Swede with your own hands, you need to stock up on the following materials:

Fireclay brick, which is made from refractory clay. You cannot use ordinary brick; it is not able to withstand high temperatures.
Clay used to hold bricks together during laying.
Metal flaps, latches, doors that help in the full operation of the Swede.
Finishing materials - plaster, lime, clay.

Tools

To lay the swede in order, you will also need special tools, which include a trowel, a bayonet shovel, a plumb line, a hammer, a level, and a container for preparing the solution.

Tools required for masonry

Foundation

How to fold the stove when all the preparations are done? First of all, you need to make markings for the foundation, on which the stove will then be placed. The marking should be 10-15 centimeters larger than the base of the stove. Then you need to dig a hole, at the bottom of which lay a mixture made from sand and water. The width of the layer should not be more than 20 centimeters. Crushed stone is poured on top of the sand, which must be compacted well, and formwork made of wooden boards must be placed.

They are covered with plastic film, on top of which a concrete solution must be poured. The thickness of this layer should not be less than 15 cm. Reinforcement must be placed in the cement that has not yet hardened, pressed into the mortar and filled with cement again.

The next step will be to install a mesh of reinforcement, but only when the first ball of mortar becomes solid. The second layer must be leveled and wait for it to harden. In total, these two phases will take three to four weeks. When they pass, the Swede's serial laying begins.

We put the stove, stove, oven

While the foundation is drying, you need to take care of the fuel part - stoves, fireboxes, ovens. The thickness of the slab should not be less than 710 by 410 mm. The dimensions of the firebox can be as follows:

Height varies between 281 by 330 mm;
The width is 305 by 356 mm;
The depth is 406 by 506 mm.

The oven will have almost the same dimensions as the firebox. The oven depth will be 281 by 305 mm, width - 330 by 381 mm, depth - 456 by 506 mm, the thickness of each oven wall will be, on average, from 4 to 6 mm. The walls should not be thin so as not to burn quickly, but they should not be made thick either, otherwise the oven will take a long time to heat up.

For the firebox, you need to take a cast door that has a “whisker” and is embedded in the masonry. The “whiskers” are installed independently if you weld annealed steel wire at the corners of the door frame. You will need two pieces that will be parallel to each other. Then the “whiskers” must be spread apart, giving the wire a V shape. These elements must also be embedded in the wall, additionally secured with a steel corner.

Fire door with welded “whiskers”

Order

The new stage of construction of the Swedish stove will be quite long in order to correctly arrange the bricks.

The sequential installation of the stove looks like this:

The base is laid out in the form of a square, each side of which is 1.1 m. The top should be exactly one brick below the floor level.
Then the first continuous row of bricks is created.
The second row will also be solid, but in place of the fireplace you need to install a grate.
The third row is laid out with bricks, creating a vertical channel and a space allocated for the oven. After this, you need to mount the doors and build a firebox for the fireplace.
The fourth row - bricks are simply laid out.
Fifth row - at the same time as the laying, a grate must be installed.
The sixth row is to create an overlap between the oven and the vertical channel.
Seventh row - you need to install two strips of metal.
The eighth and ninth rows are ordinary brickwork.
Tenth row - you need to make a niche intended for cleaning the fireplace; a hob is installed.
Eleventh row - a niche is made for the hob, the holes are blocked.
Rows 13-15 - a mantelpiece is created, so the bricks need to be pushed forward a little. In 13-14 rows you need to lay bricks that will be cut obliquely. They should be positioned towards the front plane of the fireplace.
Row 16 - completing a niche for the hob.
Rows 17-18 - laid out with bricks without additional mounting elements.
Rows 19-20 - a chimney is formed.
Rows 21-23 - doors are created for cleaning channels.
Row 24 - you need to install a damper for the fireplace.
Row 25 - the valve for the furnace is mounted.
Row 26 - the vertical channel must be connected to the chimney.
Rows 27-28 - creating the longitudinal walls of the channel that will pass above the fireplace.
Rows 29-30 - solid brickwork.
Row 31 - a common valve is installed.
Row 32 - formation of the Swedish oven pipe.

Furnace arrangement diagram

Important nuances

The foot of the oven - usually the first two rows - should be wide. This is achieved through seams with a width of 6 to 13 mm. This way you can get a pedestal that has the shape of a protrusion. You should not make the ledge wider so that the foot does not turn out awkward.

Before laying, each brick must be immersed in water and rinsed. This will ensure a strong masonry. The brick should be in the water for no more than 15 seconds so that the material does not take on water. If it penetrates into the masonry, then the structure will fall apart.

The master must pay special attention to the combustion chamber in order to burn fuel efficiently. It is made of fireclay bricks, which have a light yellow color. The mortar for masonry must be prepared using fireclay clay. It is not recommended to use fireclay and red bricks together, or stack them end to end. There should be a distance of 6 mm between different materials. For the combustion part, which starts from the third row, fireclay should be used. Considering the high cost of the material, you can line the inside of the firebox with such bricks.

Bricks with rounded corners are used in the chimney to reduce resistance to gas flow and turbulence. The chimney should be made with a fluff, raised 60 cm above the roof.

If you need to build a cooking and heating device at home, we recommend paying attention to the stove called “Swedge”. This version of the stove is characterized by its compact size, ease of construction, and quick heating to the desired temperature. We will learn further about how to make a stove with your own hands.

Photos of ovens by hand - the history of the creation of the Shvedka oven

The design features of the Shvedka stove allow it to be placed in the wall between the kitchen and any other room. This way, you can quickly heat up the kitchen while still cooking. Additional heat is directed to warm the adjacent room. Additionally, the stove can be equipped with a bench or fireplace.

The appearance of modern Swedish stoves can be distinguished by both roughness and decorative delicate patterns. Some purchased models have the shape of a cabinet and are installed ready-made in the room.

According to legend, the Shvedka stove originated in Russia during the reign of Peter the Great. Thus, the Swedes brought this version of the stove. According to other sources, the stove was developed by the Swedes and was built much later. This version of the stove is very similar to the Dutch oven, however, the cooking surface here is wider, and the stove has a wall, thanks to which it is able to heat two rooms at once.

The original version of the Swedish stove was a stove made of brick or a combination of this material with metal, stone, etc. Most often, in Sweden, fireclay bricks, which have high fire-resistant properties, were used to make stoves.

The operating principle of the Swedish oven is based on a combination of several devices. First of all, the oven performs the function of an oven; various types of dishes and pastries are perfectly baked in it. For this purpose, the initial heat that is released during the combustion process is used.

The firebox in a Swedish stove has the shape of a bell, thanks to which it is possible to burn the fuel chemically. A steel oven cannot be directly exposed to flame. It heats up when the first fuel burns. When you open the oven door, after just a few minutes from the moment the oven is fired, the oven heats up. In this case, the smoke is at the bottom, and the oven is heated using gases.

The upper part of the stove has the shape of a niche, it is spacious, and is heated using the first and second heat, as well as smoldering coals. It contains a rope for drying clothes or clothes. Overnight, the clothes dry completely.

The niche located on top of the stove is closed with a special lid. It is used to reheat yesterday's food. Arranging a heat in the space between the firebox and the smoke circulation element is a rather expensive process. Therefore, the Swedish oven is equipped with only a transfer window, which is located under the lower part of the oven.

Heat accumulation in the stove is carried out in relation to duct technology. To warm up the device, the second heat and residual heat from smoldering coal are used. The channels in the stove are located vertically. The lower part of the oven warms up worse than the upper part. This factor should be taken into account when using different types of fuel. It is possible to arrange a horizontal smoke circulation. In this case, the stove generates more heat, but you need to work hard to clean it. In relation to the individual preferences of the owners, the duration and design features of the duct chimney changes.

Another element of the Swedish oven is the second oven. This part of the furnace is located in an adjacent room. It can also contain a fireplace or an equipped bed. Please note that a Swedish lounger or bed is distinguished by certain features of its arrangement. The length of the berth is no more than six feet, and the width is no more than 2.5. A bed is arranged above the lounger, while the lower part is equipped with heating. Under the bed there were also drawers containing linen.

The Swedish stove has a simple design, high efficiency, and affordable cost. The heat output of such a stove is much higher than that of a Dutch stove, while the amount of materials for its construction is much less. In addition, this version of the oven allows you to cook food and dry things in it. With the right approach, it is possible to obtain a high-quality device for heating two rooms at once.

Drawings of stoves by hand: construction of a Swedish stove

In order to correctly build a Swedish stove, it is necessary to adhere to the previously developed drawings and dimensions of this structure. The quality of the resulting heating item is determined primarily by the size of the structure:

We suggest you familiarize yourself with the optimal dimensions of each stove part:

the size of the plate is 71x41 cm;
firebox height from 28 to 33 cm, width 32-38 cm, depth 45-50 cm;
the height, width and depth of the oven are 30x33x50;
the thickness of the steel from which the oven door is constructed is 0.5 cm;
the interval between the grate and the nearest wall is about a third of a brick or a whole brick.

These values are approximate and range from 5-10 cm. One of the most important factors is the thickness of the oven walls. If you use thin roofing iron to make an oven, it will heat up quickly and cool down quickly. In this case, it will be impossible to get quality cooked food. The oven and stove are made from steel or a material that does not conduct heat well. The dishes are heated through the burners.

Strictly adhere not only to the specified dimensions of the oven, but also to the proportional relationship between all elements. For example, when constructing a firebox of minimal size, the depth of the furnace will also be minimal. Otherwise, the level of efficiency will significantly decrease.

The oven is washed using gases in all directions. Therefore, a gap must be created between the back wall and the wall of the firebox, the minimum value of which is a quarter of the brick. The depth of the oven is also adjusted according to the previously described parameters. The oven can be located near the firebox if there is insulating material in the form of asbestos or vermiculite between them.

Particular attention should be paid to the combustion door. Since the furnace is subjected to constant thermal loads, this part quickly fails. Therefore, it is recommended to make a cast version of the door, which is walled up in the brickwork. To make a mustache, it is enough to attach a wire about 5 cm long and up to 5 mm in diameter to the door. Wire mustaches are also walled up to better hold the door. An additional steel strip provides better fixation of the material.

Do-it-yourself oven photo:

Quite a lot of difficulties arise in the process of laying a Swedish stove. First of all, before starting work, you need to study the drawings for the stove yourself, according to which the masonry is schematically performed. A Swedish stove produces a large amount of heat, so the floor on which it will be installed must be well-insulated. The best option for thermal insulation is to use basalt cardboard, which is laid in several layers. For work, sheets 0.5 cm thick are used. The middle sheet should have a foil coating with basalt microfiber. Thus, the heat will be reflected into the room.

Next, the base is made. To lay the first two rows of the stove, an interval is observed with additional widening of the seams. Thus, a part is obtained in the form of a pedestal protrusion. Please note that the maximum seam width is 1.3 cm.

Before laying bricks, it is immersed in water for several minutes. Thus, the quality of the masonry increases. Otherwise, dry brick begins to quickly absorb moisture from the mortar, reducing its strength. Keeping a brick in water for too long also negatively affects its quality. Therefore, the brick should be moderately moistened. Marl is used to make masonry mortar. Some oven options are made using ordinary clay. The bricks of the stoves are placed by hand on the mortar previously prepared in small portions.

In order to obtain a high level of efficiency and efficiently burn fuel with maximum heat release, the combustion part should be properly equipped. The temperature inside the firebox should be high, due to this heat is released and the oven heats up. This furnace element is made of light yellow fireclay bricks. Fireclay clay is used to make masonry mortar. Please note that ordinary red brick and its fireclay version differ in the coefficient of thermal expansion, so laying them close to each other is unacceptable. The interval between these types of bricks should be 0.6 cm.

It is recommended that the firebox and the rest of the stove, with the exception of the first three rows, be made of fireclay bricks. However, this material is highly expensive, so you need to make at least the inner part of the firebox from it.

When making a sauna stove with your own hands, pay special attention to the evenness of all surfaces. For cutting and joining bricks together, it is best to use a grinder. In relation to the order and drawings, the blanks are made in advance in the open air, since cutting bricks with a grinder is a rather complex process, during which dust is released.

In relation to the drawings, the corners must be rounded. This is necessary in order to improve the draft inside the stove. A fluff is installed at the mouth of the chimney, cutting through the wind it increases the draft.

Hand sauna stoves require metal elements. The reliability of the furnace is determined by the presence of a minimum number of steel elements in it. However, in order to reinforce the hanging masonry in the furnace, steel strips and angles are installed in it. Thus, it is possible to reduce the cost of the finished device.

After making a sauna stove with your own hands, the process of putting it into operation follows. Initially, under no circumstances should you heat a stove that has not yet dried out. Thus, its strength is reduced. The stove must be made during warm weather. It must dry for some time and only after that it begins to be put into use. The minimum amount of time for drying the oven is 15 days.

Next, warm drying is carried out for two weeks. To heat the stove, a minimum amount of coal and firewood is used, preferably from aspen. Firewood made from pine or birch is not suitable because when burned they release a large amount of heat and soot. There is paper in the cleaning door during drying; after it becomes dry, this process ends.

This is followed by the process of hot drying, in which the stove is heated several times a day, in the morning and in the evening. The load on her is gradually increasing. If there is a multi-pass oven, drying is carried out in winter.

Additionally, you can equip the stove with a stove bench. To make such a stove, you will need significantly more bricks. However, the bed can be used as a sleeping place or for drying a large number of wet things.

This stove is not equipped with an oven, since the heat from it immediately transfers to the stove bench.

The second option is an addition to the fireplace stove. There are two ways to organize such a stove. According to the first method, the fireplace is an addition to the back side of the stove and has a separate chimney from it. The second method of installing a fireplace involves heating it from the stove, thus, it is possible not only to save materials on the construction of the stove, but also to heat two rooms at once.

Another version of the Swedish stove is a small stove installed in dachas. It is used seasonally, periodically. Particularly relevant is the presence of a niche inside which clothes and shoes are dried. The amount of materials for the construction of such a stove is less, but the amount of heat generated as a result is also reduced.

DIY Swedish oven video: