To create a bathroom interior ideal option is ceramics. This material Resistant to indoor humidity. Big choice products allows you to implement the most daring solutions in bathroom design.
Choice of cladding
To achieve the desired effect upon completion of the renovation, first of all, determine the method of facing the space that you like best. There are three types of cladding:
- Decorating some parts of the room with tiles (bathroom area, washbasin, etc.);
- Wall cladding to the intended level;
- Full finish.
The design method directly depends on the dimensions of the room. For example, for a small bathroom, zoning with tiles is inappropriate. Individual parts will look like a jumble different ideas in a small area.
Spacious bathrooms can be decorated in any way without fear of the visual effect of cramping.
Choosing color and style
Neutral tones
Facing in light colors with bright accents
Rich palette
When choosing a color scheme, it is necessary to maintain a balance between bright and calm shades. A provocative color can create an atmosphere of irritation, so it is better to combine rich tones with neutral finishing options.
Natural textures
Modern style
Popular trends for bathroom cladding also include classic and ethnic styles.
In the process of planning and implementing the project, adhere to one important principle: the tiling of the bathroom must correspond to the overall style of the interior of the house.
Decorative panels
Recently, ceramics with photo printing are often used (option decorative panels). IN in this case the choice of design is limited only by the area of the room, the renovation budget and the need to match the idea. Exclusive solutions look the most attractive.
Square tiles
Rules for choosing tiles
- Make sure that you purchase material from the same batch, otherwise there may be a discrepancy in the shades of the elements;
- Inspect the surface of the ceramic. The tiles should be free of damage and chips. Often during transportation and storage, the integrity of products is compromised, for example, corner parts break off, cracks appear;
- Measure individual elements to understand whether the ceramics corresponds to the parameters stated on the packaging;
- Pay attention to the quality of the corners, each of them should be 90 degrees;
- Place two tiles with the end parts facing each other to understand how smooth and high-quality the surface of the tile is. There should be no gap between the elements;
- When calculating the amount of material needed, take into account the reserve - about 10%.
The success of bathroom design depends largely on the idea of finishing and the quality of implementation. However, you should be no less careful when choosing plumbing fixtures. When purchasing, you should take into account the quality of the product, its shape, compliance with the interior style, and the manufacturer’s size range.
Our day begins with the bathroom and ends with it. So she takes important part our life.
In this article you will learn which materials are best to use for finishing the floor, ceiling and walls of the bathroom.
Floor finishing
We all know well that the bathroom is a place where there is a lot of water. Splashes of water, dust and dirt end up on the floor, and we have to protect it well from this.
But how? This problem can be solved with the right flooring.
Often, ceramic tiles are chosen for the bathroom, which are easy to clean, but will be a little slippery when water gets in. Along with tiles, porcelain tiles and mosaics are good finishing floor materials.
More budget option is linoleum, but when water gets in it becomes not as slippery as tiles. In addition, water can accumulate between the seams, which will lead to early deterioration of the material.
The next finishing material is natural stone. If we compare it with linoleum, we would like to note that the stone is much more expensive, but, of course, better quality.
Another reason why the stone is not popular is that it becomes very slippery when exposed to water, which is dangerous for human life.
Self-leveling floor is a polymer mass that must be applied to a primer. After hardening you will get a beautiful flooring, which is also waterproof and non-slippery.
But the only drawback is the high cost of the material, so self-leveling flooring is not very popular among buyers.
Paul from natural wood. It would not hurt to specify the type of wood when purchasing. After all, there are not so many moisture-resistant ones - teak, larch, puinkado, beech.
But whatever you choose, be sure to treat the material with moisture-resistant products for strength and durability. Yacht varnish also does a good job.
Bathroom wall decoration
There are many materials available for decorating bathroom walls. Let's look at them all in more detail.
Tiles and porcelain stoneware, these two materials are somewhat similar to each other. They both repel water and do their job well. They differ from each other only in price and quality.
Finishing plastic panels, but when choosing them, you need to be very careful, as there are many fakes. They consist in the fact that they do not have a special coating between the seams that would protect them from water ingress.
But fakes can be immediately noticed, since they should be visible.
The bathroom can also be decorated with acrylic waterproof paints. You can choose any color that suits your room interior.
But, before you start work, do not forget to properly level the walls so that no defects are visible.
The walls in the bathroom can also be decorated with wallpaper. But which ones?
First of all, these are simple waterproof wallpapers that are made of durable material.
Vinyl wallpaper is an expensive option, but reliable.
Photos are wallpaper, but they, of course, must also be moisture resistant. Otherwise, they will last you no more than a month.
On given time, the most popular wallpaper is glass wallpaper. They will certainly be moisture-resistant and water-repellent.
You can choose the color and design of such wallpaper yourself or order it. Washable wallpaper for the bathroom is an ideal option.
Don’t pay attention to the cheapest options, because their material is simple paper, which will get wet and tear after a few days.
Ceiling finishing
The ceiling in the bathroom is also very important. We are accustomed to the fact that it is often light in color waterproof paint. But now you can see many other interesting options:
A suspended ceiling is an excellent option, since all electrical wiring or defects in the rough ceiling can be hidden between the ceilings.
Tension is the most practical, but at the same time the most expensive.
Reliable and durable - a vinyl-coated ceiling, it can even protect against water leakage from top floor if you live in an apartment.
The decoration of the bathroom depends on your financial situation and your personal wishes.
If we focus on the majority of the population living in apartment buildings, then you can choose several, quite budget options.
But first we need to consider ways to save money when performing finishing work.
Doing the work yourself will save you significant money.
It is difficult to find funds to pay hired workers; the only option is to choose a specialist who offers the lowest cost for their services.
Selecting the type of finish. Rational planning and use modern materials can provide an opportunity to reduce the budget by tens of percent. 
The use of the same type of materials differs in price. This method reduces costs by 10-20%, but there is a high probability of making a mistake with the choice of materials and running into a fake.
Bathrooms located in brick or panel houses(“Khrushchevka”, “Brezhnevka”), and more modern buildings, consisting of 9-14 floors with standard layout, which came from the Soviet era.
Painting with paints and varnishes
This method is the most budget-friendly, low-cost in terms of materials and amount of labor invested.
Types of jobs:
Preparation of the base, including repair of the wall surface by applying plaster and putty. Treatment with antiseptic compounds.
Surface priming acrylic primers from the “aqua - stop” series, - fasten the structure of the base and create a moisture-resistant film. 
Application paint coating, - you can use conventional enamels based on pentaphthals (alkyd resins), the components of which create a smooth, moisture-resistant decorative coating on the base.
Flaw - Strong smell When dry, it will float in the air for about two days. Another option is to use acrylic enamels. They do not have a pungent odor and dry within 1..3 hours. But the price is almost twice as high as compared to PF enamels.
The junction of the bathtub with the walls is sealed using plastic elements or ceramic borders.
The finishing price will be about 2000-3000 rubles.
Wallpapering
Used for wet rooms vinyl wallpapers with a moisture-resistant coating - “washable”. The surface of the walls, especially with uneven brick partitions, must be carefully leveled in order to make them flat. 
The disadvantage of this type of finishing is that moisture getting into the seams between the wallpaper sooner or later leads to peeling of the coating.
The use of decorative finishing material based on fiberglass will help avoid such troubles and significantly extend the service life.
Estimated costs are 2000-6000 rubles.
Covering with sheet panels
The size of the PVC (polyvinyl chloride) panel sheet is 1 x 495 x 955 mm (thickness, width, length). Produced in a variety of color scheme and texture.
These materials require a fairly flat surface, so leveling with plaster should be more thorough than when treating with paint. Instead of painting operations, the panels are glued on. 
Decorative material fixed to the wall using glue from the “liquid” nails series, used in wet rooms and containing antiseptic additives against mold. Possible use of polyurethane polyurethane foam. The panel is processed using scissors or a stationery knife.
The cost of finishing work will be 4000-6000 rubles.
Another inexpensive way– the use of traditional plastic panels, which are board-shaped products.
Application of plastic panels
The plastic panel is made from PVC and structurally looks like a board with a width of 100-500 mm and a length of 2600-3000 mm. The section shows that between the two sheets there are stiffening ribs, giving the product strength and lightness. 
The panels are attached in several ways:
- By fixing to wood, metal or plastic sheathing using clamps, self-tapping screws or staples from a furniture gun;
- Gluing to adhesive compositions from the “liquid” nails series;
- Installation on polyurethane foam.
In the latter case, you can omit the procedure for leveling the walls - this is explained by the properties of the foam, which, expanding, fills the void between the wall and the panel.
The joint between the panels and the bathroom itself is sealed with silicone sanitary sealant or using a flexible plastic plinth. The approximate amount of expenses is in the range of 5000-7000 rubles.
With hired labor, the cost of expenses approximately doubles.
Bathroom decoration in low-cost solutions It depends entirely on the materials, who will carry out the finishing work and how.
August 26, 2016Specialization: master in construction plasterboard structures, finishing works and laying floor coverings. Installation of door and window units, finishing of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.
From my own experience I know that those who decide to do budget renovation in the bathroom, they often spend even more than those who don’t particularly bother with saving. This is due to a number of factors: from the use low-quality materials before hiring unskilled workers. I will share my experience in carrying out work and tell you how to meet the deadline. minimum budget and get excellent results.
Workflow Description
In order to have a good understanding of all aspects of this topic, I will explain in specific example. So we have:
- typical room in a nine-story building of the P-44 series;
- The size of the room is 1.7 by 1.7 meters, the ceiling height is 2.64 meters.
We will look at how much the finishing will cost us; I will not touch on the plumbing, since most often if the repair is done as economically as possible, then these elements do not change.
Stage No. 1 – competent organization of the process
If you want to save on repairs, then these rules should become fundamental for you:
| Do it yourself | If we consider the cost of specialist services, we will notice a peculiarity: their work costs about the same as the materials. And taking into account the fact that we will use the most budget-friendly solutions, it is easy to guess that you will pay more for the services of builders than for materials. The conclusion is simple: we do everything ourselves and reduce the cost of the project by more than half |
| Use quality materials | I talk about how to make repairs using inexpensive, but not low-quality materials. In pursuit of savings, many begin to go too far and buy the cheapest product options, but this is not worth doing, since their reliability and appearance leave much to be desired. I'll tell you how to choose good solutions and still pay a little |
| Follow the work technology | Below I will tell you how to finish each of the sections; the process is described step by step, and there is not a single unnecessary step in it. There is no need to skip individual stages, as this will inevitably reduce the quality of work and negatively affect the final result. |
| Don't remodel | If you want, among other things, to change the layout, then hope for the most cheap repairs It's stupid to say the least. Any manipulations with the rearrangement of plumbing lead to the need to rearrange communications, and here there is no point in saving, everything must be done expensively and reliably |
Another very important recommendation, which directly affects the cost of the project - the use of those materials that are easy to work with and that you can lay or attach with high quality. Many times I have completed repairs for those who overestimated their strength and, having completed a small part of the repair, realized that they would not be able to handle it. Then, of course, you need to spend a lot of money on paying the builder.
Be prepared for the fact that you will have to spend a lot of time and instead of cozy, quiet evenings watching TV, you will have to demolish, level, lay, saw, fasten, and so on. There is no free cheese in mousetraps; you will have to pay for the savings with your time, but if you take all the tips from this article, the costs will be minimal.
You must have a work plan in advance in order to make economical repairs from scratch with your own hands; you need to clearly plan each step and accurately calculate the materials so as not to purchase too much. Just read all the sections below and you can easily create a clear plan based on them.
Stage No. 2 – purchasing everything you need
I will tell you how to prepare a simple estimate for a bathroom renovation - the sample can be adapted to your space in order to carry out all the calculations. An estimate is a list necessary materials indicating their quantity and cost, since we carry out the work ourselves, there is no point in including their cost, unless you assign yourself a financial incentive for a successfully completed project.
Cost calculations are made for individual parts of the room; we will look at each of them and start with the floor. Linoleum will be laid on the floor, let’s figure out how to choose it:
- Since the room is damp, you should purchase options without a base or based on PVC, since it is not afraid of dampness and mold and mildew do not form in it.
- The dimensions of the bathroom are 1.7x1.7, the area is 2.89 square meters, but no one will cut the material to our sizes; it is sold in linear meters. In our case optimal width 2 meters, since it will produce the least amount of waste, we need 2 linear meters, that is, 4 squares;
- After calling all the retail outlets, I found a PVC-based option that cost 224 rubles per square meter. Upon inspection, I was convinced that the surface was durable without damage or defects, the substrate was elastic, and the material... As a result, I paid 896 rubles for 4 squares;
- To keep the joints of the floor and walls neat, you need a plinth; I found plastic “Comfort” for 56 rubles per piece, 2.5 meters long. We need to close 3 walls, and on the fourth there is a door 60 cm wide with 8 cm strips, that is, the opening takes up 76 cm. The opening is not located in the corner, so on one side we need 20 cm of plinth, and on the other 76 cm, that’s enough for us waste from elements that will go on the walls;
- As a result, you need to purchase 3 skirting boards for 56 rubles, 4 internal corners 35 rubles each and two plugs - right and left for connecting to door frame, they cost 27 rubles. Adding up all the results, we get (56x3)+(35x4)+(27x2)=362 rubles;
- To fasten the baseboard we will use liquid nails; I bought a convenient 200 ml tube for 104 rubles.
Now let’s sum up all the expenses: I spent 896+362+104=1362 rubles on finishing materials for the floor; if we compare it with regular projects, the amount is several times less.
We will level the ceiling with putty and paint it with moisture-resistant paint. white, so we will need the following materials:
- To level the surface, I use Vetonit VH, which is intended for use in damp rooms and guarantees a reliable result. The ceiling did not have significant unevenness, so one bag of the composition weighing 20 kg, which costs 456 rubles, is enough;
- For coloring we need paint for wet areas, I chose the latex-based option. The composition needs to be applied in 2-3 layers, so I bought a 3 kg package, for which I paid 190 rubles;
- To treat the surface and strengthen it, a primer is needed, I purchased Tikkurila products in a volume of 900 ml for 124 rubles, this is quite enough for our purposes.
Now let’s sum up all the costs: 456+190+124=770 rubles we need for the ceiling.
Let's move on to the most expensive part - the walls, for which I chose PVC panels 250 mm wide and 2.7 meters long - there will be a minimum of waste. This material is not afraid of moisture, it is easy to wash, so it is perfect for the bath.
Let's figure out what we need for work:
- You need to calculate the number of panels; if their width is 250 mm, you need to divide the length of the walls by this figure. But we must not forget that on one of the surfaces there is an opening measuring 700x2100, on one side there will be one entire panel, on the other three, and above the doors we will need three pieces 540 mm long, that is, we will cut one element. This means that we need 4 whole panels for the wall with the door, remember this figure and move on;
- We divide the length of the wall of 170 cm by 25 cm, we get 7 panels, we multiply this result by 3 and we get 21 pieces. We add 4 panels from the point described above and we get 25 elements - this is how much is needed to decorate the walls in the bathroom. I found products for 127 rubles apiece, the final costs were 3175 rubles;
- For installation we will need components, first of all this is the internal corner, these elements are sold in pieces of 3 meters and cost 50 rubles. We need 4 pieces, that is, the cost will be 200 rubles;
- On top, bottom and along the perimeter of the opening, I decided to put a starting profile, which is sold in pieces of 3 meters, 4 elements are needed on top, 2 elements are needed to frame the doorway, pieces can be joined at the bottom, since this part will be covered with a plinth, but you will still need 1 a whole piece. A total of 7 starting strips are needed, the cost at a price of 45 rubles will be 315 rubles;
- We will attach the panels to a block measuring 25x50 mm; it will be positioned horizontally in increments of 30 cm so that the surface is strong and does not sag. With a height of 264 cm, you need to fix 9 rows, we calculate in linear meters 9x1.7 = 15.3 meters, multiply by 3 whole walls and get approximately 46 meters;
- On the wall with the door there will be less material, 3 pieces 170 cm long, 6 pieces 80 cm long and 6 pieces approximately 20 cm long. In addition, you need to nail vertical strips along the opening, 2 pieces 210 cm long to frame it securely. As a result, we get the following result (170x3)+(80x6)+(20x6)+(210x2)= 1530 cm or the same 15.3 meters;
- Summing up all the numbers, we get 61.3 meters, the bar is sold in pieces of 3 meters, that is, we will need 21 pieces. Our lumber of this type costs 40 rubles per piece, that is, I spent 840 rubles for the entire volume;
- I will fasten all the elements using a stapler, I will need staples, a package of 1000 pieces costs 45 rubles, and this is quite enough to get the job done.
- The block will be fastened with 6x50 quick-installation dowels; approximately 200 of them will be used for all walls; at a price of 25 rubles, the total cost is 500 rubles.
Let's calculate all expenses: 3175+200+315+840+45+500=5075 rubles.
For clarity, I will show all the results in a summary table:
| Bathroom floor | ||
| Name of material | Quantity | Amount, rubles |
| Linoleum | 4 sq.m. | 896 |
| Skirting 2.7 meters | 3 pcs. | 168 |
| Internal corner | 4 things. | 140 |
| Plug left and right | 2 pcs. | 54 |
| Liquid Nails | 200 ml. | 104 |
| Ceiling | ||
| Putty "Vetonit VH" | 20 kg | 456 |
| Latex paint | 3 kg | 190 |
| Strengthening soil | 900 gr. | 124 |
| Walls | ||
| PVC panels 2500x250 mm | 25 pcs. | 3175 |
| PVC inner corner | 4 things. | 200 |
| Starting bar | 7 pcs. | 315 |
| Edged block 25x50x3000 mm | 21 pcs. | 840 |
| Staples for stapler pack. 100 pieces. | 1 pack | 45 |
| Quick installation dowel 6x50 | 200 pcs | 500 |
| TOTAL: | 7207 | |
As you can see, cheap DIY bathroom renovations are not science fiction or fairy tales, and I did not use the cheapest compositions and materials; everything I purchased is different good quality and attractive appearance.
Stage No. 3 - dismantling old coatings
You cannot carry out work without removing old tile or without removing worn flooring. Of course, if your floor or ceiling is in good condition, then it makes sense to leave them. For example, if the tiles on the floor look fine, you can refresh the surface by removing the old grout and filling the joints with a new compound. The same applies to the ceiling: if it is smooth, then you can remove the old coating and repaint it.
But in practice, most often it turns out this way, then you need to do both the floor, the walls, and the ceiling, so I will consider just this option; before making repairs on a budget, you will have to work hard to remove the remnants of the old coatings.
The following works are to be done:
- Most often on the ceiling old whitewash or paint that has turned black over time. Sometimes there are many layers on the surface, and it takes a lot of time to remove them. I use a scraper, but you can use a spatula, knife and any other device convenient for you, the main thing is that you can remove the old coating;
Old whitewash and water-based paint They will come off much easier if the surface is thoroughly moistened and left for 20-30 minutes.
- As for the walls, they can either have many layers of paint and whitewash, or old tiles. The compounds are cleaned off as described above, but you will have to tinker with the tiles; for this work it is best to use a hammer drill with a special spatula. If there are no power tools, then you will have to work the old fashioned way - with a hammer and chisel, the work is tedious, but one way or another it needs to be done;
- Lastly, the floor surface is prepared; in my case, there was linoleum there, so the work was simple: I removed the old coating and got a flat surface, completely ready for work. If you have old tiles, then you will have to tinker with removing it from the surface; the same tools are used for the work as in the paragraph above.
Naturally, you need to remove everything unnecessary from the room; you should only have prepared walls left.
Stage No. 4 – finishing the ceiling
It is from this part of the bathroom that I recommend starting work for the simple reason that a lot of dust will be generated in the process, and the putty may fall down. The finishing option I am considering is the most budget-friendly - you can achieve it yourself excellent result for the simple reason that the ceiling area is small and perfectly leveling it will not be difficult even with a lack of experience.
The instructions for carrying out the work look like this:
- First you need to check the plane with a level or a level bar to see what irregularities need to be eliminated;
- The surface must be treated with a primer to strengthen it and remove dust; the composition is applied with a brush and dries for about an hour;
- Then the composition is prepared, it retains plasticity for a couple of hours, so I advise you to do no more than 5 liters at a time, your work speed will be low, so you are unlikely to use more. All the features of mixing the composition are indicated on the packaging, so there should be no problems with this part of the work;
- With the first layer you need to eliminate all significant unevenness; if there are none, then simply putty over the entire surface, creating a kind of base; don’t worry about stains, they will be eliminated. After the surface has dried, the sagging can be easily cut off with a spatula, after which you need to check it with a level again;
- The second layer should level the ceiling, try to do the work carefully, there may be sagging on the surface, but there should be no holes left, since they cannot be eliminated. As a last resort, you can walk a third time if the ceiling was uneven and you have to create a plane with large differences;
- After drying, the dirtiest part lies ahead - grouting the surface; bring a respirator and goggles, as when sanding dust will fly into your eyes and enter your respiratory tract. In order to control the plane, use a simple technique: hold a light bulb near the surface, it perfectly shows all the irregularities and allows you to perfectly level the surface in one go;
- After finishing the work, the surface is cleaned with a brush or broom, after which it can be painted. The work is carried out in 2-3 layers, you can use either a brush or a roller, it all depends on your convenience. Each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried.
Stage No. 5 - flooring
When considering the question of how to make a floor economically, linoleum will always be unrivaled not only due to its low price, but also to the reliability and durability of the coating. In the bathroom this coating is installed very simply:
- The surface is cleared of dust and debris and can be wiped damp cloth to clean as best as possible;
- Next, the material is spread, it will go onto the walls, so you need to position it evenly, after which construction or any other sharp knife excess is cut off. Do this carefully, since it is unlikely that you will be able to glue back something that has been cut off by mistake;
- We don’t have any joints, which simplifies the process, the only thing is that doorway You may need to fix the material; for this you can buy a metal threshold.
Due to the fact that the area of the room is small and there will be a bathtub on the surface, there is no need to glue the linoleum, but if you want to strengthen the coating, you can use double-sided tape. The plinth will be fixed subsequently, at which point this stage can be considered complete.
Stage No. 6 – wall decoration
First, a process diagram is presented, and below each stage is described in detail:
- The frame is leveled; when attaching the elements, you can put wood chips and pieces of wood under them to derive an ideal plane. A hole is drilled in the block, then a hole in the wall is drilled directly through it and a quick-installation dowel is driven in. You can fill your hand in literally 10 minutes, so the process will go quickly;
- Then the corners are attached in the corners, and the starting profile is attached above and below, as well as around the perimeter of the opening.. The main thing is to accurately cut the strip at the joints so that everything looks neat. Fastening is done using a stapler, it is very fast and very reliable;
- A panel is inserted into the upper and lower guides and inserted into the corner, after which it is fixed with brackets to the bars. The work is carried out until the entire wall is finished, the last plank is cut so that it is 3-4 mm wider, the corner or starting profile is slightly bent and the element falls into place. The plastic bends well, but you still shouldn’t be too zealous, do everything carefully.
After finishing the walls you can glue plastic skirting board, do not forget to put corners and plugs so that all the elements fit perfectly together.
This is a simple example of how to do a cheap bathroom renovation, even if you spend 1-2 thousand more, but still the costs are not comparable to those that you would incur using standard materials and hiring builders.
Conclusion
It is quite possible to transform a bathroom while spending a little more than 7 thousand, and I showed this with a specific example. I tried to talk about everything in detail so that you can understand the topic, and the video in this article will clearly show some important points, so that you can better understand some of the nuances. If you have any questions, write them in the comments below.
When renovating a bathroom, to obtain good result it is necessary to select the right materials and evaluate the scale of work and the amount of time required. In the article we will consider various options finishing the bathroom using traditional and unusual materials.
Ways to level walls
Almost all bathroom finishing options include preliminary design. There are two ways - using plaster and drywall. Plastering is a longer and more expensive process, but it takes less space— when plastering, existing irregularities are filled. You can quickly level the walls in the bathroom with plasterboard and it will cost less. And that's a plus. But at the same time, at least 6 cm will be required on each wall (5 cm profile + 1.2 cm thickness of gypsum plasterboard). And this is a significant minus, especially in small bathrooms. Another point: heavy things or equipment can be attached to plasterboard walls only if the mortgages have been previously installed - wooden block or steel strips fixed to the wall. And this means additional costs and difficulties.
The walls in the bathroom are leveled with plaster according to
Whatever method of leveling the walls and ceiling in the bathroom you choose, you need to consider high humidity this room. Therefore, all materials are moisture resistant:
After leveling the walls using any of the methods, the surfaces to be prepared are prepared. finishing. Evenly plastered walls or primed drywall are sufficient for laying tiles. For wallpapering and application decorative plaster putty is required. The surface must be perfect for painting, so the putty is applied in several layers (usually two are enough, but sometimes more).
There is an option for finishing a bathroom, for which the walls are not leveled - Wall panels PVC. They are mounted on the sheathing, so the degree of curvature of the walls is unimportant.
Tiles and its types
When it comes to bathroom finishing options, the first thing that comes to mind is ceramic tiles. This material is ideal for wet rooms and has many advantages:
Wallpaper in the bathroom
Wallpaper in the bathroom is perceived critically by many. And in vain. It's inexpensive and quick way wall decoration in the bathroom. It’s hardly worth covering the area near the bathroom or washbasin with them, but the rest of the space is very possible. Wallpaper for the bathroom should be moisture-resistant (in graphical coding these are three wavy lines), preferably resistant to friction - so that it can be washed with a brush.
Use glue with antibacterial additives, not forgetting to prime the walls with an antiseptic compound. This option is perhaps the most cheap finishing walls in the bathroom and the fastest way to put it in order (provided that the walls are already level). And such repairs will last for a couple of years, and then you can re-glue the wallpaper or choose a more durable finishing option.
Wallpaper in the bathroom is a good option for an economical renovation, and the look is very good
Plastic panels
PVC wall panels are another inexpensive alternative to bathroom tiles. Their beauty is that the walls don’t have to be level: they are attached to the sheathing, which will hide all the unevenness. The second advantage is that they are inexpensive and can be installed quickly. Another plus is a large number of colors, including plastic panels that imitate laid ceramic tiles, mosaics, and decorative panels.
Plastic for bathroom walls - there are different options
More positive points: under plastic wall panels you can easily hide all communications, and they are also easy to clean. But to prevent mold from growing under the finishing, the walls must be primed with an antiseptic compound and good ventilation must be ensured.
The disadvantages of this method of finishing a bathroom are that the lathing takes up quite a significant amount of space, which is important. And the second disadvantage is that the panels are fragile and with significant force the jumpers are pressed into them. If you hit it with your elbow, you won’t be able to pierce through normal-quality slats, but there will definitely be a dent, and this spoils the appearance.
Custom bathroom finishing options
Some finishing materials are not very suitable for use in conditions high humidity, but, with certain processing, they can be used there. Such materials include wood and natural and artificial stone.
You can design your bath in a non-standard way, even using standard materials- photo printing on tiles and
There are also new materials for wall decoration, which according to their characteristics are suitable for the bathroom, but due to the fact that they were developed recently, they are not yet widely used. Such materials include wall linoleum and thin PVC panels.
Here's about all of these finishing materials and we'll talk in this section.
Wall linoleum
This material is completely new. It is produced by Tarkett and is called Wallgard. Developed as a wall covering in medical institutions because it is resistant to water and exposure chemical substances, can be washed many times, even with the use of disinfectants. In appearance it resembles flexible sheet plastic 1.2 mm thick, sold in rolls 2 m wide, cut with scissors.
So far there are not many colors - the material is new, but since it has aroused active interest, the range will probably be expanded soon. Currently, if you prefer calm tones in the decoration and matte surfaces, you can use wall linoleum.
The canvases are mounted on smooth walls, are welded together with a special soldering iron with an adhesive cord. Can be used cold welding(glue), but the tightness of this connection is much lower.
PVC panels without partitions
There are PVC panels for finishing walls without partitions. These are sheets of plastic with a printed pattern. The thickness of the plastic is 2-3 mm, the size of the plates is 955 * 480 mm or so. In Russia they are produced so far by one company - the Regul enterprise produces the Dekopan material. One sheet costs 215 rubles, that is, the material is classified as inexpensive.
It is mounted with glue on smooth walls and cut with scissors. In general, a promising option for economical wall decoration in the bathroom. It will surely appeal to summer residents - it creates a 100% water-repellent surface, weighs little, and is easy to install.
Natural and decorative stone
If you are looking non-standard options bathroom finishing, take a closer look at flagstone - natural stone sawn into thin plates - flagstone. Granite flagstone is most suitable, since it is not hygroscopic, but other types can be used. The laid stone is usually coated with varnish on top, which is additional protection from moisture.
Another option is marble. But this is an expensive material that only looks good in spacious rooms. It is rarely used for finishing bathrooms, since it reacts poorly to contact with water and is difficult to protect. Very complex installation— the slabs are large, weigh a lot, only professionals can handle it.
When laying natural stone a special one is used adhesive composition(for natural stone). The technique is similar to laying tiles, but you have to select each element.
Natural stone is, of course, beautiful, but heavy and expensive. The slabs have a random shape, which makes their installation very difficult. These problems do not exist if you use artificial decorative stone. It is made on the basis of gypsum and cement. To decorate the walls in the bathroom, cement is used, since gypsum is hygroscopic and does not react well to getting wet.
A little on the walls more difficult work With ceramic tiles. Each collection consists of a set of fragments in the form small bricks different shapes. They fit together, creating an uneven but picturesque surface. To avoid mistakes when laying, first lay out the fragments on the floor and select a combination of colors and sizes of the elements. When the “picture” is satisfactory, the decorative stone is alternately transferred to the walls.
Bathroom finishing options decorative stone are numerous, but most often the stone is present only in fragments. They decorate one wall or even just a part. The rest of the space is most often painted or, as in the photo above, finished with mosaics. These types of materials combine very well.
Wood
In our country, wood is used very rarely for bathroom decoration - it changes size when humidity changes, deteriorates faster and loses its appearance. So this is not the most good option, although, without a doubt, it looks beautiful.
Impregnations help improve the situation by preserving the attractive appearance of wood even outdoors. These are formulations based on oils and wax. Many of them, at the same time as protection, give the wood color. It can be whitened, made darker, even painted blue, pink or other colors - there are different colors.
Such bathroom finishing options look cozy and warm, and not cold, as when using tiles. The disadvantage of this type of finishing is that regular wood care is required using special products.
