Wood is one of the best building materials, which is used for the construction of modern wooden structures - residential buildings, bathhouses and courtyard buildings.
Among other things, wood has good performance characteristics - reliable thermal insulation, sound insulation, environmental safety and aesthetics.
However, despite the obvious advantages of the material, wooden logs are susceptible to cracking and drying out, which ultimately leads to the appearance of cracks.
Consequences of wood delamination
Small cracks cannot cause serious harm finished building. But deep defects and damage can cause uneven shrinkage of wood and deformation of the entire structure of the log house.
When eliminating defects, you should not ignore the smallest grooves and cracks, which under the influence high humidity can become a breeding ground for mold, fungal growths and rot.
All this can lead to the destruction of the log house itself and its reduction performance characteristics.
Prevention of defects
The appearance of various wood defects is easier to prevent than to eliminate. An important task of prevention is the use of high-quality and well-dried logs with a moisture content not exceeding 22%.
Natural drying of logs in a dry and ventilated room for 2 years ensures uniform evaporation of moisture and almost completely eliminates the appearance of cracks.
The most effective methods of prevention are:
- Natural drying;
- Compensation cut;
Natural drying
Most The best way prevent the appearance of various defects on the surface of logs - drying the material under natural conditions. Carried out before construction begins.
The drying speed should be the same for the top and inner fibers of the wood, which will ensure uniform evaporation of moisture.
When drying lumber for 12 months, the size of cracks formed can reach 10 mm, up to six months - up to 20 mm, within 2 years - no more than 2 mm.
Compensation cut
This method of prevention involves making a special cut using a chainsaw or milling machine along the log to a depth of 1/3 of its diameter. IN in this case The ends are not cut.
The cutting width is 10 mm. The cuts help relieve tension in the wood fibers during its further drying.
When erecting a structure, the resulting groove is securely closed by the next element, preventing rotting and destruction of the log. Shrinkage leads to a slight expansion of the kerf, but the total number of cracks is significantly reduced.
How to treat the ends of logs to avoid cracks? The answer is simple - sealant.
Sealing the cracks prevents the rapid evaporation of moisture from the internal fibers through the end face of the logs.
Repairing cracks
If there are deep damage and fiber breaks in the log, experts recommend sealing the cracks in a timely manner to prevent complete destruction of the wood.
Sealing cracks in logs is done in several ways:
- Rubbing with sandpaper;
- Rubbing with glue and sawdust;
- Stuffing with wood chips;
- Sealing with putty mixtures;
- Sealing with sealants;
- Gypsum sealing;
- Caulk with moss, tow or jute.
Important! Before carrying out work on sealing cracks, it is worth performing pre-cleaning surfaces of logs from debris, dust and rot, removing loose and damaged areas.
Rubbing with sandpaper
Small cracks and damage that have just begun to appear on the surface of the log must be eliminated first.
This is done manually using sandpaper, the grain size of which is selected taking into account the type of wood.
For soft wood, fine grain is suitable, for hard types - large grain. The dust that is formed when sanding the surface can act as a primer base. Antiseptic compounds or varnishes are applied to the treated material.
Rubbing with glue and sawdust
You can seal cracks in logs with simple putty made from PVA glue or wood glue glue mixture with the addition of sawdust.
The components are mixed in a ratio of 5:1 (5 parts glue - 1 part sawdust) to obtain a thick mass. The resulting putty is applied deep into the cracks using a spatula, reliably filling all existing voids.
After complete drying, the remaining putty is carefully removed with a knife. If necessary, re-mashing is carried out.
Filling with wood chips
Deep and wide cracks in logs can be hidden using ordinary wood chips sharpened with wedges. In this case, the length of the chip must correspond to the size of the existing crack. To ensure reliable sealing, the chips can be coated adhesive composition and hammer it in. Next, the chips are processed putty mixture for wood.
Sealing with putty mixtures
Cracks in timber up to 3 mm in size can be repaired using modern acrylic wood putties. They eliminate quickly minor defects and do not fall out when dry.
In addition, such mixtures are highly waterproof, resistant to low temperatures, durability and practicality.
Safe putties are available in ready-made compounds designed for certain types of wood. The putty is applied using a narrow rubber spatula.
Sealing with sealants
How to repair cracks whose depth reaches 5-6 mm? In these cases, you can use wood sealant (mastic).
Deep cracks should be treated as follows: a polyethylene rope is laid on the bottom, and sealant is poured on top. The complete absence of adhesion between the harness and the sealant ensures reliable elimination of cracks.
Plaster seal
Arbogypsum sealant has proven itself well for eliminating cracks in log logs. Reliable and safe material, consisting of gypsum and auxiliary components (tyrsa, sawdust, straw) ensures reliable filling of existing cracks in any type of lumber.
To prepare the seal, the dry mixture is diluted with water in a ratio of 2:6:1 (2 parts dry gypsum powder, 6 parts sawdust and 1 part water).
The finished sealant should be thick and flexible without lumps or air bubbles. After preparation, the gypsum seal is applied with a spatula into the gap, carefully compacted and left to dry. This method is one of the most effective and durable used in wood construction to eliminate wood defects.
Caulk with moss, tow or jute
To seal cracks in a log house, you can use. This method is used to eliminate deep and wide cracks.
Natural moss, tow and jute are used as insulating materials. For the caulking process, dry moss soaked in warm water for 35 minutes.
After the sealant has completely dried, its excess is carefully removed. Sealing cracks with jute and tow is done in a similar way.
Sealed log house remains visually attractive and reliably protected from negative influences various factors.
All modern options crack elimination are used for internal and external surfaces of logs. They contribute to the rapid restoration of the performance characteristics of wood and reliable protection of the finished structure.
The ends of the logs must be treated with a special compound
The ends of the logs are most susceptible to rotting.
To confirm this fact, pay attention to some log that has lain unclaimed for several years. You will see that it is the end of the log that is “clacked”.
Since all the wood fibers are open at the end of the log, they actively absorb any moisture: from the air, from rain and snow. Naturally, the unprotected surface of the end from constant exposure to changes in moisture and temperature ages very quickly:
- loses the natural, fresh color of wood and becomes “blacker”
- a large number of small cracks appear - a network of “wrinkles”, like an old lady’s
- from the constant presence of moisture, fungus, rot, mold, black spots appear
Naturally, there is only one solution: to treat the ends of the logs with some kind of compound. Moreover, it is best to do this as soon as the log house is assembled.
Wood shrinkage
Shrinkage of timber logs takes about two years. And in the future, wood is a natural material that constantly gains moisture and dries out. These processes go on continuously. And to protect it from moisture accumulation, it is coated with special compounds.
But, in the first year of a log house’s life, painting of logs should be done only so that the logs do not lose their freshness. And the protective composition must be chosen so that it does not interfere with the drying of the wood:
- removal of moisture from the inner layers of wood of the log along the longitudinal fibers to the ends
- removal of moisture from the inner layers of wood along the transverse fibers to the outer surface of the log
- evaporation of moisture from the surface of the outer layers of the log
Yes, the system for removing moisture from wood is quite complex. And it doesn't work evenly:
- Along the longitudinal fibers, moisture reaches the ends of the logs faster than along the transverse fibers - to the outer surface
- due to uneven evaporation of moisture through the ends and side surfaces, stresses arise inside the wood, which leads to the formation of cracks in places of greatest stress
Why is it necessary to paint the ends of logs?
It has already been proven that if the ends are protected, the log will dry much more evenly, which in turn will have a positive effect on its appearance: longitudinal cracks will not form on it or there will be much fewer of them.
Why is this happening?
- Cracks in logs, as a rule, form closer to the ends. This occurs due to different rates of moisture evaporation through the side and end surfaces.
- through the painted end surface of the log, the evaporation rate decreases. This means that the speeds become approximately the same.
The evaporation processes are leveled out and there is no longer any stress in the different layers of wood.
You can talk and argue about the causes and consequences, the pros and cons of processing the ends of logs, but the fact is fixed: the ends need to be coated with some kind of composition, immediately after assembling the log house. Wood cracks when it shrinks too quickly.
It is in order to reduce and even eliminate the formation of cracks on logs that it is necessary to paint the ends of the logs with a protective composition.
How to treat the ends of logs
Since in the first two years the process of shrinking the logs occurs, and the log house shrinks, it is recommended to treat the ends of the log logs with a breathable composition.
For example, previously the ends of logs were painted with lime:
- protects the surface from ultraviolet radiation
- disinfects and prevents logs from rotting
- inexpensive
In the future, when the frame has already settled, it will be possible to paint the end sections with any product that forms a film coating, containing oil or wax.
Means for processing the ends of logs
Domestic industry produces special remedy for processing the ends of logs. It is recommended to choose from three manufacturers:
- Senezh Tor
- Neomid Thor Plus
- BIOTOR (Rogneda)
Means for processing the ends of logs Senezh Tor
Senezh Tor:
Reduces the number and depth of shrinkage cracks
Ensures grade preservation valuable species wood
Reduces linear deformation of timber during drying
Prevents end moisture and wood rotting
Does not contain chemical compounds prohibited in EU countries
Slightly changes the color of the processed ends for ease of use
An environmentally friendly product without solvents or odor
Fire- and explosion-proof material
Frost-resistant product
The product for processing the ends of logs “SENEZH TOR” penetrates through the end along the wood fibers a couple of centimeters and forms an air-permeable but water-repellent coating on the end cut, which normalizes evaporation excess moisture made of wood, repels precipitation.
Means for processing the ends of logs Nemida Tor Plus
Neomid Thor Plus:
Provides protection to the ends of logs from rotting and damage by any fungi and pests:
effectively protects wood from rotting
prevents shrinkage cracking of wood
reduces the degree of linear deformation
creates a water-repellent barrier in wood fibers
prevents the accumulation of excess moisture and end moisture
forms an elastic thin-layer coating with high vapor permeability and water resistance, which allows the wood to “breathe”
preserves the natural texture of wood
Product for processing the ends of logs BIOTOR
BIOTOR:
Forms an elastic film on the end, which eliminates the difference in the rate of moisture evaporation between the side and end surfaces, due to which the composition:
prevents the formation and development of cracks;
reduces the number and depth of shrinkage cracks;
prevents the formation of linear deformations of timber during drying;
provides protection of the ends from moisture and rotting.
Processing the ends of logs significantly reduces the percentage of longitudinal cracking of logs.
The causes of cracks in wood are many different factors. But the main one is the different humidity of surface and inner layers. When drying, the outer fibers, drying more intensely, experience tensile forces. And the inner layers, drying more slowly, under the influence of the moisture retained in them, experience compressive forces.
The result of such inconsistencies is the occurrence of cracks. Violation of the integrity of the wood structure reduces its strength, and moisture again enters into the cracks formed. Crack formation during natural drying of wood is inevitable; this process cannot be completely eliminated, therefore it is important to minimize the number of new cracks and their size. What can you do?
Material selection
- be prepared in winter time when it, due to the slowdown in the movement of juices, is lowest (in warehouses it can be found until the month of May);
- dry in a chamber for at least two weeks before use;
- during natural drying, lasting more than 2 years, it should not be affected Sun rays why the canopy is installed;
- be with a cross-section ≤ 200 mm (less susceptible to cracking).
Glued laminated timber, made from stringently selected and special materials. processing of boards, glued with alternating directions of wood fibers. This significantly increases their ability to resist cracking.
Compensation cuts
Our ancestors, who had accumulated a wealth of experience, did not make any cuts (except for a longitudinal groove). Modern practice confirms that small cracks (up to 2 mm) appear, and for large cuts it is justified if the following conditions are met:
- location in the middle of the longitudinal groove only on the bottom side, otherwise weakening will occur in two places, which can lead to splitting of logs and beams;
- depth ≤ 1/6 of the thickness of the log or timber;
- logs were dried in stacks for ≥ 1 year.
The cutting device does not affect the formation of side cracks, so this method is not particularly effective.
Use of protective compounds
The following products are available for sealing cracks:
- acrylic putties - colored to match various breeds plastic wood ready-made compositions. They are waterproof, frost-resistant and durable. Dries quickly. Used for sealing small cracks with a depth of ≤ 4 mm;
- acrylic sealants, in pure form they are laid to a depth of ≤ 5 mm, and for larger ones, a polyethylene rope is placed in the crack, followed by application of sealant;
- an aqueous solution of gypsum and filler (can be used) and a few drops of shampoo - (arbogypsum).
Effective old-fashioned method- sealing deep cracks with moss. The moss is aged for 30 minutes. in water, wrung out and rolled into a roller. Densely filling the cracks with moss is done with a spatula. After drying, the moss reliably seals all cracks.
Protection of log house ends
The cuts, by completely exposing the wood fibers, disrupt the structure of the tree. Therefore, the ends of the frame are the most vulnerable places, the protection of which must be carried out immediately after assembling the house.
The scope of work includes:
- Trimming - straightening logs or timber along the length using a chainsaw.
- Grinding the ends - eliminating all irregularities with grinding machines.
- Application protective compounds, which can be used:
- domestic preparation “Senezh Tor”, penetrating deep into the wood. Eco-friendly coating, breathable coating, good protection from the occurrence of cracks and rotting of wood;
- Russian “Neomid Thor plus” is a ready-made aqueous solution of synthetic copolymers and various auxiliary components. Excellent protection against cracking and damage by fungi and mold;
- another Russian product “Biotor” - reliable protection from all unfavorable factors;
- Some of the imported products include: Zobel, TEKNOL JRM, Kordin WV456.
In villages, it is still practiced to treat the ends of wood with lime and protect them from weathering with cladding boards.
The ends are the most vulnerable areas of the logs, since the wood fibers remain completely open and are more exposed to the negative effects of weather factors than other areas. The processes of moistening and rapid evaporation of moisture lead to the formation of cracks at the ends, as a result the logs can crack, which has a very bad effect on strength wooden structure. Treating the ends of rounded log logs with special antiseptic agents will help prevent the development of negative processes. If protective treatment is carried out in a timely manner, the wood dries evenly, which has a positive influence on appearance logs and log houses in general.
The need to treat the ends becomes obvious if you look at an untreated log that has lain on the street for several years, the ends of which have lost their natural color and darkened, become covered with cracks, and fungus and mold have appeared on them.
This happens because the open ends actively absorb moisture, which then quickly evaporates, and the loose wood structure becomes a refuge for microorganisms and insects.
Through the end and side surfaces Logs moisture evaporates at different rates. Evaporation of moisture through the ends occurs much faster, which leads to the formation of cracks and deformation of the crowns.
Painting the ends of the log frame promotes uniform drying of the logs, since the rate of evaporation through the painted surface slows down, and accordingly, the process of cracking stops.
The first processing of the ends must be carried out immediately after construction log house. But since in the first years after construction there is an active process of shrinkage of the log house, it is necessary to treat the ends with a product that does not interfere with the natural shrinkage processes occurring in the wood.
Calculate the cost of painting and insulating your home right now
After cutting chipboard or laminated chipboard into parts, an open end edge, which must be closed for the following reasons:
-give an aesthetic appearance to the workpiece (part);
-reduce formaldehyde fumes;
-protect the end surfaces of workpieces from minor mechanical damage;
-protect the end surfaces from moisture entering the slabs.
There are also edges that act as shock absorbers (SOFT edges) and are used for the manufacture of children's furniture.
Let's look at some methods for sealing the end surfaces of chipboard and arrange them according to the rigidity of the end surface. The hardest surface will take first place.
MORTASE EDGE (PVC)
In the cross-sectional drawings we see several different edges.
To install them, you need a hand router
make a groove along the entire length of the end, the required width and depth.
The width of the groove is formed by a milling cutter,
after passing which, it should be 0.5...0.7 millimeters less than the thickness of the spike. The depth of the groove can be 6...10mm, depending on the length of the tenon.
Step-by-step instruction.
1. We grind (grind) the edges of the laminated chipboard end with fine-grained emery cloth.
2. Select a cutter required thickness and diameter, install it in the center of the tenon seal.
3. Mill the groove of the required size.
4. Apply PVA glue or “liquid nails” to the outer surface of the tenon.
5. Gently hammer the edge with a rubber hammer until it fits snugly against the surface of the end.
6. Trim the ends on both sides and finally align them with the end surfaces.
EDGING EDGE
Overhead plastic profile does not require the use of expensive tools. There is no noise or dust during operation.
To install the profile we will use glue and a knife.
1. Sand the end faces.
2. Lubricate inner surface liquid nails glue or silicone sealant.
3. We will put the profile on the end of the chipboard.
4. Remove excess glue or silicone sealant, wait for the glue to dry completely.
5. Trim the ends and align them with the end surfaces.
In curved sections, the profile must be fixed and pressed against the end surface. This can be done using masking tape.
FURNITURE EDGE
Paper or plastic tape, which is glued to the open end of the chipboard part.
The thickness of the edge can be different - 0.4...5mm. The thicker the edge, the higher its strength characteristics, so the ends in hard-to-reach places are covered with a thin edge, and on the contrary, the ends in easily accessible places are covered with a thick one. The width is selected according to the thickness of the slab, plus a processing allowance of 2...3 mm.
1. Check that the glue is applied evenly to the inner surface.
2. Press it to the end and heat it with a hairdryer or iron.
3. Cut off the ends and clean them. If light stripes form, they can be repaired furniture wax, stain or potassium permanganate solution.
Material classification:
-melamine edge (a paper strip that is impregnated with urea (melamine) resins and treated with varnish);
-PVC (polyvinyl chloride);
-ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene);
-PP (polypropylene).
We know how to choose materials, construction fasteners, and how to seal the ends of the selected material. Having studied the proposed material, you can begin self-production furniture that you yourself invented and designed.
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