Many landowners of suburban areas and summer residents want to dig ponds for certain purposes. Small ponds good for decorating the area near the house. Moisture-loving and aquatic plants are often planted in them, and ornamental fish are bred.
Large ponds carry a completely different task:
— they can be used to breed fish and crayfish for food;
- determine a place for swimming so that on hot summer days you can relax and swim in your own pond;
— also loves to spend time near the pond and on the water Domestic bird;
— if you have a vegetable garden nearby, then you can take water from a large pond for watering your plants.
A large pond is not only a decoration for the site, but also, accordingly, a great potential for increasing profits, because you can grow fish and crayfish yourself!
This article will help you plan ahead all the work on digging a pond, since a small reservoir can be dug manually, but large excavation work requires inviting specialists and equipment to the site, with the help of which all work will be carried out.
You need to dig a large pond on a site with an excavator, but an excavator cannot always cope with excavation work, especially if the work is planned for late autumn, winter or early spring, when the soil freezes. Taking into account the fact that in the summer there is so much other work on the garden plot, it is best to postpone digging a pit for a pond until a time when you do not need to rush, since it is advisable to constantly monitor the digging process.
Frozen soils are much harder and must first be loosened, then the soil must be removed with an excavator bucket.
And if you are the owner of an excavator or have friends who work on such equipment, then take into account in advance the fact that in winter the soil needs to be loosened with a special ripper for excavators. Nowadays it’s not even difficult to hire an excavator, but it often turns out that just such a ripper is not included in the kit. And this is a powerful tool that can cope with the most difficult soil- frozen, clayey, rocky, with an admixture of construction waste. It is also important to find a quality tool, because weak rippers can do the job, but will take a lot of time, for which you will have to pay.
No construction is complete without plans, therefore, before starting the construction of your own pond, you must first analyze and plan everything, so that later you do not delay, postpone the work, or even redo what has been done. Because a dug pit is just the beginning of constructing a pond!
Creating a pond on a site requires not only cold calculations, but also creative ideas, with which landscape designers can share.
And keep in mind that it is almost impossible to repeat a pond you like that you saw somewhere in reality or in a photo, since all areas have their own individual characteristics, including climate, soil structure, vegetation, groundwater occurrence, etc. Therefore, your pond will be completely unique. It must also meet all your requirements in the form of aesthetic pleasure, and, if possible, generating income from breeding the same fish, crayfish, and poultry!
If you decide to create a pond project yourself, then upon completion of its creation we advise you to show the project to specialists who can give you some advice or correct or add to it. Then you can be sure that the pond will not have to be redone.
The most important question about building a pond on a site is its future location. The main thing is to place it in such a favorable place as to create a landscape view from the side of the house. To do this, you need to determine an appropriate piece of land commensurate with your pond plan. If there are old, unnecessary trees in this area, they need to be uprooted.
Also think about the fact that a dug pond near trees will be heavily clogged with leaves and branches. And at first, this vegetation may cause the water to bloom.
The best option for placing trees near the pond would be the south side, due to which part of the water surface will be slightly shaded, which will prevent the water from blooming. But trees should not grow very close.
Next, you need to decide on the size and shape of the future pond. If you want the pond to look harmonious, then its size should be proportional to the size of the site itself. Small, decorative ponds should occupy no more than 3% of the area of the site, but a large pond or reservoir can occupy the entire 10-20%, depending on the purpose for which you are creating it.
The shape of a large pond on the site should not be pretentious, the coastlines should not be broken, this type of shape can only be suitable for creating decorative ponds, and then in modern styles. It is better if the coast lines are smooth. Most often, ponds are made round, oval, square, trapezoidal, that is, the shape that will be most beneficial for a particular site.
Moreover, different parts of the pond can serve different functions. For example, the shore closest to the house for swimming should be flat so that the water heats up faster, the far shore can be built for breeding fish and crayfish, and there the shore should be steep and the bottom deep.
The next planning stage should be choosing the depth of the pond. And the depth must be calculated so that the pond does not freeze in winter, otherwise all aquatic vegetation and fish may disappear. There is special literature that can be found on the Internet about matching the depth of the pond, plants and fish, since different types of algae or fish require different pond depths. In any case, you can go a little deeper than planned, which will give you a better chance of a normal winter.
Excavators dug a pit. Along the edges there are mounds of earth that need to be removed somewhere. For this, a work plan for constructing a pond on the site will again be useful. You can ask the excavator drivers to spread the soil and dump the topsoil in one direction and the bottom layer of soil in the other direction. After fertile soil can be used in a garden plot, creating decorative, alpine slides or raised beds in the garden, elevations for planting fruit trees, if groundwater lies very close. And the lower, poor layer of soil can be used for marshy areas, bordering the banks of the pond with it. Then, as if by magic, your pond will be deeper, and the coastal soil will crumble less, since the lower layers of soil are usually heavier, with an admixture of clay. A kind of border from infertile soil will not create very good conditions for the growth of marshy plants and the shore of the pond will not silt or become overgrown with unnecessary plants.
AND final stage— where to get water to fill the pond? It is very good if you have a river, water canal, stream flowing nearby, or if there is a similar pond next door. This means that most likely in some areas the groundwater is located quite close to the surface, from where your pond will be filled. In swampy areas this is not a problem at all, the main thing, as described above, is to make a soil barrier so that the shore does not become swampy and crumble, making the pond smaller and smaller.
When you dig a pit with an excavator (ripper for frozen soils) in winter, you can just see that the layer of frozen soil is soon replaced by soft soil that is not frozen. When groundwater levels are high, the soil does not freeze deeply. And in the spring, you can be sure that most of the pond will be filled with water.
If there are no natural reservoirs nearby, then we advise you to dig a well in the deepest part of the pit, which will serve as a spring in your pond.
And lastly, please note that a large pond on the site can be dug in 1-2 weeks! If you are asked for more time, it means that the workers are most likely not specialized in digging pits, in which case you need to look for others.
You should immediately warn those who want to have a pond for fishing and swimming in their dacha. This is a rather complex structure; its construction should be undertaken carefully, with the sole desire to “create a magnificent landscape design"is not enough. This refers to a fairly large body of water, not a decorative one.
What will be needed for construction?
- Availability of special earth-moving equipment and trucks for transporting earth. There will be quite a large amount of it, the specific volumes depend on the size and depth of the pond. For swimming and breeding fish, the depth must be at least two meters; multiply this figure by the length and width and find out the volume of the soil.
- The ability to continuously supply fresh water to the pond and consider a way to drain the runoff. Without a constant change of water, the most beautiful pond will turn into a green, stinking puddle in a few years; cleaning it out or, in extreme cases, filling it up is a big problem.
- Significant financial resources. They will be needed not only for the construction of the reservoir, but also for maintaining it in proper condition.
If you have no problems on all counts, you can begin construction. We will tell you in as much detail as possible about all existing rules and requirements, each owner suburban area must independently decide what to do: take into account existing requirements and be guaranteed to have a real functional pond, or act at his own peril and risk, build “at random.”
The pond at the dacha for breeding fish and swimming is quite large in size, and this is already quite complex in its complexity. hydraulic structure, requiring a competent approach.
Before the immediate start of production construction work The following problems need to be solved:
When the preliminary questions are clear, you can begin to sketch the reservoir and draw up a water supply and drainage diagram.
How to draw a sketch
When you do not have the slightest experience and knowledge, it is better to seek help from specialists. Their services will cost much less than correcting mistakes.
Scheme of a film pond
Show on page Open full size
If you have some preparation, then with the help of our tips you can make a sketch yourself. What should be indicated in the picture?
FOUNDATIONS OF BUILDINGS AND STRUCTURES. S V O D R A V I L SP 22.13330.2011. SNiP 2.02.01-83. File for download
Water purification measures, filtration prevention
Seepage protection is carried out when the pond is dug in light soils. In addition, the issue of withdrawal should be resolved melt water, if they can get through the sides or from a spring at the bottom. The internal surfaces of the reservoir can be protected using a traditional compacted clay screen or concrete with special additives. Today, there are newer materials on sale: rubberized films, synthetic mats with dry clay powder inside, etc. A specific choice must be made taking into account the financial capabilities and characteristics of the soil.
Over time, the water in the reservoir becomes contaminated with various mechanical deposits. The maximum damage is caused by clay particles entering through the active aquifer pores of the soil. In the most difficult cases siltation can be up to ten centimeters per year. To eliminate such negative consequences gravel-sand cushions can be poured onto the bottom or non-woven synthetic filter materials can be used.
Very important has a percentage of oxygen in the water, aeration should be used to maintain values within the recommended parameters (if there is no other way to exchange water). There is another option for aeration - making a decorative fountain, but this method can significantly increase the estimated cost of construction work.
Additional structures for water replenishment of the pond
For reservoirs that are built on a river or stream, this problem is solved by nature. All you need to do is install a small dam to hold back the water flow and release the excess. To prevent pollution from the river from reaching the surface, you need to install ordinary lattice filters. If there are fish in the pond, then the same gratings should be installed on the drainage system, they will prevent the fish from leaving. Dams simultaneously release maximum water flows during floods or spring snowmelt. Metal or metal can be used as drainage structures. concrete pipes, the diameter is selected taking into account the maximum flow rate of the water flow.
Significant problems can arise when it is necessary to clean the bottom of the pond. It will not be possible to drain the water completely; it will have to be pumped out with powerful pumps. Again, recusal issues need to be resolved. The pumped water should not flood existing buildings and neighbors on the dacha site.
An important characteristic for any pond is the water exchange rate. Indicators depend on hydrological features. Scientific data indicate that for large-volume reservoirs it is possible to reduce the frequency of water exchange; the system is able to cope with cleaning on its own. Reservoirs into which water comes from a river or stream (dams) do not require any effort. For all other ponds, it will be necessary to make forced water exchange systems with pumps or purify the water with biological and mechanical methods. The power of the pumps and the amount of water depends on the volume and purpose of the structure.
Table of water exchange coefficients
When natural water change is ensured various reasons is impossible, you will have to use mechanical and biological methods water purification, we will talk about them below.
How to purify water without water exchange
If the pond is quite large, then water purification occurs to a greater extent in a natural way microorganisms and plants. But there are times when these cleaners do not have time to cope with the assigned tasks, the owners have to solve the problem using other methods.
- Mechanical filters. The most common and cheapest method. In most cases, cleaning can be carried out in several stages from various types pollution. They consist of washed crushed stone and several fractions of quartz sand.
- Chemical filters. Modern devices, absorbing chemical compounds unusual for ponds. Additionally, a special installation for saturating water with oxygen can be used; it ensures an increase in its amount in the water. And oxygen accelerates the processing of organic pollutants by bacteria.
- Water sterilization. An ultraviolet irradiation unit processes water and destroys all types of bacteria. For fish ponds it is used only as a last resort when pathogenic bacteria are detected in the water.
- Microbiological method. Bacteria specially introduced into the pond significantly accelerate the decomposition of organic impurities.
If you do not comply with the requirements for maintaining the water in proper condition, then in a few years a beautiful stocked pond will turn into a pit with stinking water.
Special hydraulic structures
At the beginning of the article, we already said that excluding foundation flooding existing buildings it is necessary to provide for the location of the pond at the planning stage. But there are cases when the landscape features of a summer cottage, the physical characteristics of the soil or the proximity of groundwater do not allow one to avoid flooding with “little blood”, it is necessary to build special hydraulic structures.
Maintaining the water regime of the dacha plot and draining filtration water outside the plot is done by drainage - quite complex with technical point view of the structure. Ponds can have a low water level (the mirror is located below ground level) or high. In the first case, drainage water can be diverted back into the pond, and the excess is removed using an ordinary drainage system. Disadvantages of this method: a fairly large distance between the ground and water levels and very extended systems. The issue can be resolved by installing intermediate wells. In the second case, you need to make a separate ring drainage for the pond; it will intercept the filtration water and divert it to the collection tank. Used on heavy, heavily waterlogged soils.
We specifically tried to give as much as possible full information for the construction of ponds in compliance with all requirements building codes and rules. Each developer has the right to independently decide whether to build a pond taking into account the developed recommendations and not worry about its functionality or simplify some technologies.
Information about construction technology is available, there is no problem in choosing and getting acquainted with the desired pond option. We will give some general practical advice, which will be useful in all cases.
We strongly recommend that you begin constructing a pond before the construction of the main dacha buildings begins. Firstly, the fertile layer of soil can be usefully used in another area. Secondly, the work of earthmoving equipment and trucks will cause less damage to the landscape.
If the land is sandy, then it is better to concrete the bottom; flexible waterproofing materials do not have sufficient physical strength and will not be able to prevent the banks from collapsing. During concreting, it should be borne in mind that two types of forces will act: with outside the earth will crumble, the inner bowl will burst with ice in winter. It is highly advisable to use metal mesh reinforcement during concreting.
The swimming area must have reinforced shore protection. If various films are used for waterproofing, they can be damaged by swimmers. Special ladders must be installed at the points of entry/exit from the water.
Provide installation locations additional equipment and gutters should be used when working with the bowl. Exits are installed in technological areas, more thorough waterproofing is done, etc.
The fish in the pond will have to be fed; natural food is not enough for it. Feeding is an unnecessary burden on the ecology of the pond; it will not be possible to accurately calculate the amount of feed. This means that water purification systems must be more powerful and efficient.
Video - How to build a pond yourself
We are all often concerned with the question of improving our little world, our “personal country”, within the borders own plot, and specifically, how to dig a pond on your property correctly.
A decorative pond can be made using a film coating or in a ready-made plastic form.
We are all eager to intervene in the natural landscape created by nature itself. To become like God and through a master’s, volitional decision to change what was created initially, from the day the world was created.
It is commendable that a person is able to change and subjugate the landscape of his site, make it convenient for comfortable living and create an environment that would be pleasing to the eye and at least not worsen the health of those who are on it.
From time immemorial, a person’s presence near an open body of water, even the smallest one, has had a beneficial effect on his general well-being and condition.
For the construction of the floor artificial pond You just need to dig a pit, and it can be filled with water on its own.
Water itself is life. There is no need to talk about the peace of mind and emotional state of a person who is near a body of water; just remember the minutes spent fishing or swimming on a hot day. Even just contemplating an open surface of water, and even a beautifully designed one, is already free psychotherapy.
So the desire to have your own personal pond on your property for fishing, recreation and for decorative purposes is commendable, but for this you need to take into account many factors and know modern capabilities to implement this idea. We will tell you how to dig a pond at your dacha correctly, and even with your own hands.
Preparatory work for creating a pond
First of all, you should:
Several horizontal terraces 30-40 cm wide should be left in the pit.
- decide what you want when planning to dig a pond on your site, decide on its size, configuration and location, since the dimensions can be in terms of water surface area from 0.50 m2 to any size available to you, limited by your imagination, the means for its implementation, the feasibility and boundaries of your site, since the pond should not extend beyond personal property;
- indicate the functions that this water body will perform. It will be like a type of improvement, decorative design dachas, or implies the use of a pond for swimming, fishing, economic purposes and needs. Its uses are varied: from fish farming to using a pond for raising waterfowl. Or you can simply use it as a reservoir for storing water, a fire pond;
- determine or identify the presence of a natural flow of water into your pond from underground sources, the presence of a key or outlet from a small river, although such “replenishment” should only be in the direction of the flow of water into your pond. Water from your pond should not flow into public streams in the area. To include a pond in the general water system, you need to obtain permits and comply with strict legal conditions and sanitary standards;
- In the absence of natural, “natural” replenishment of water, consider the types of artificial replenishment, renewal and measures aimed at preventing the pond from turning into a swamp. A separately drilled well can help with this. well, etc.
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What you need to know to create large ponds
To do this you need:
- V the best option– flowing close to a section of a stream or small river, which can be used as a source of replenishing the pond with “fresh” soda. It is advisable to do a water analysis so as not to “collect” water in your pond that is not suitable for human use for any purpose. A stream may flow from some kind of septic tank, carrying all the dirt from agricultural fields, landfills, etc.;
- familiarize yourself with land and water legislation, according to which your pond located on your land should not come into contact with water resources that are in Federal ownership (rivers and lakes), it should be a separate object. Should not exceed a depth of 5 m;
- explore your site, identifying its relief. It can be either flat or sloped, with natural, natural depressions that can be used to create a water feature. It is advisable, when the snow melts in the spring, to see where the streams flow and where the water lasts the longest on your site. Reveal natural ways spring “migration” of melting snow. You can also see in the summer, after the rains, where the flow of rainwater is directed;
- determine by drilling as a possible source of filling the dug pond with water. The close location of groundwater will make it much easier to create a water body with your own hands by filling it from natural underground sources and will make further operation of the pond as a whole less costly;
- know the type and composition of your soil at the entire depth of digging your pond, your reservoir. Soil, as is known, can lie in layers and alternate: layers that allow moisture to pass through well, and layers. detaining her.
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What you need to know to dig small decorative ponds
In order to build a pond from old bath It is enough to dig it into the ground, covering it with stones.
We dig out large objects using modern materials and technology, they are entirely of artificial, man-made origin, implying human participation both at the initial stage of digging a bed for a pond, and during further care of the reservoir: cleaning, changing water, aeration, decorating with plants and stones.
For small decorative ponds, you only need your desire, imagination, aesthetic sense and sense of understanding of beauty.
Decorative shallow ponds on your site with a depth of 0.3 to 1.5 m and a water surface area of 1 m2 to 10 m2 various shapes can be designed and implemented in any place on your site you desire.
Such decorative ponds can have either a flat, even bottom or a bottom sloping from opposite sides towards the middle, in which most of the silt settles. During further operation, such a bottom surface will make it easier, without even pumping out or completely draining the water, from the silt that inevitably forms at the bottom. For these purposes, a pit dug in the center of the pond, a depression where all the dirt will directly accumulate, can also be suitable.
There are ponds with terraced, stepwise changes in bottom depth. With a shallow step 30-40 cm deep, a middle step 60-80 cm and the bottom of the reservoir itself from 1 to 1.5 m, which is enough even for wintering fish placed in the reservoir.
You need to know that there are both vertical and “bank” walls beveled at any angle, which can be designed in a unique way at your discretion and desire.
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We dig a pond on the site and fix the landscape “to suit ourselves”
The bottom of an artificial reservoir is usually covered with a special insulating layer and then with a film.
Having drawn up a detailed site plan and taking into account all the features of your site, your capabilities and desires, you need to mark out the future pond, transferring its size and shape to the area using pegs and a cord.
Provide organizational and technical issues regarding the passage of an excavator if you are going to build a large pond. In addition, it is necessary to remove the excavated soil from the pit outside the site or distribute it over it. It will be problematic for you to carry out quite a large volume of excavation work with your own hands using a shovel, even if you invite numerous relatives.
You can dig a smaller pond for decorative purposes with your own hands, after practicing with a good sharp shovel. Typically, such ponds are built after all the main tasks of building a house, laying out a garden and a vegetable garden have been completed, and large ponds, as a rule, are built on an area that has not yet been formed, which is associated with the operation of equipment.
The selected soil from the pit may be useful for correcting the unevenness of the site, creating alpine slide followed by planting plants on it, laying protective ramparts around the perimeter of the site and for other needs. A fertile layer of approximately 30 cm is used to build up the humus layer in the vegetable garden and garden.
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Forming a waterproof bottom in large ponds
After finishing earthworks and resolving the issue with the excavated soil, you need to begin the final formation of the bottom and shoreline, the perimeter of your reservoir. On clayey, heavy soils it is necessary:
- It is good to compact the exposed layer of clay bottom by adding crushed stone and pressing it into upper layer clay. On other soils, it is better to form such a layer from brought clay. A compacted layer of 25-30 cm of clay and crushed stone will serve as a water seal for your pond.
- Pour a 5-10 cm layer of river sand and carefully level and compact the surface;
- Lay with an overlap of at least 50 cm:
- polyethylene film, PVC film 0.5-1 mm thick;
- geotextiles;
- rubber film;
- special PVD film for reservoirs with a thickness of 0.5 and 1 mm.
The expediency of pouring river sand under the film is obvious; it allows you to cover the sharp edges of the crushed stone and place the film on a flat surface without the film covering the pebbles under it, because due to the pressure of the entire huge mass of water, a hole may form in these places.
When forming banks with a slope of 25-30 degrees without the formation of retaining coastal shore fortifications and their decorative design, for example, with stone, all work on them should be carried out in the same way as on the section of the bottom continuation. The film material should be raised to the entire height of the future filling of the pond with water.
A layer of sand at least 7-10 cm thick is poured onto the film, then again fine crushed stone with a layer of 80 cm. These two layers serve as protection for the film from mechanical damage.
If your pond will be used as a place of recreation, i.e., will be intended for swimming, then it is more advisable to replace crushed stone with small river or sea pebbles, and the entrance to the reservoir, together with the flat section of the shore used as a beach, should be covered with river sand.
With this it is correct arranged day reservoir operation of the pond can occur intensively. You can swim in it, catch fish thrown into it, without fear of damaging the film that blocks the filtration of water into the lower layers of the earth, and reducing its level. In this case, only natural evaporation of water into the atmosphere will remain, which, as a rule, is replenished by rainfall.
It has been repeatedly noted that people who dream of their own pond affectionately call it a “pond.” We will tell you how the participants of our portal made their ponds.
- How to find a place for a pond on a site;
- How to choose its sizes;
- How to dig a pond;
- Types of waterproofing;
- How to make a clay castle;
- How to correctly calculate film sizes;
- How to make waterproofing.
Choosing a place for a pond
The correct pond on the site must be in the right place. To find this on the site right place, several points must be taken into account: groundwater level and soil composition, lighting, topography of the site, distance to trees. People who are overwhelmed by the “dream of a pond” often start by studying neighboring ponds so as not to repeat the mistakes of others. So, if the underlying soil is clay, then it will hold water in the pond; Water will easily drain through sandy soil, especially if groundwater deep. It is these factors that influence what it will be like, whether it will be necessary to buy materials for waterproofing, how complex the work will be, and what time of year it is best to carry it out.
axelo FORUMHOUSE Member
In this case (high groundwater level), it will be more economical to dig in the cold, and not in the spring - you will be tortured to pump out water.
The shape of the future reservoir depends on the topography of the site - whether you want waterfalls or a smooth surface of water. Illumination plays an important role - it is undesirable that the exposure time to direct sun rays exceeded six hours. Therefore, even if you are sure that you know the area like the back of your hand, it is recommended to observe how it is illuminated by the sun for several days. If you are making a pond for fish, then the light requirements are especially important - the warmer the water, the lower the oxygen level in it.
The more sun there is, the deeper the pond should be.
Many are afraid to place a pond next to trees, although it would seem that we have the necessary shading. They say that tree roots can tear the waterproofing. At FORUMHOUSE this is considered rather a prejudice.
DreiW Member of FORUMHOUSE
There is an opinion that this is just another myth. “Roots and film”, “moles and film”, “pond and mosquitoes” - folk art. There will be more damage from leaf and needle litter from nearby trees to the pond.
According to the experience of the participants of our portal, roots, like stones and other hard and sharp objects at the bottom, can mechanically damage the film when filling the reservoir with water. To prevent this from happening, the bottom and walls are cleared of them, optionally sprinkled with sand, and a layer of geotextile must be placed under the waterproofing layer.
If the roots are not visible at the bottom, but the proximity to trees is still disturbing, you can dig a leaf between them and the pond flat slate or iron.
How to determine the size of a reservoir
The size of the future pond depends, first of all, on its purpose. It’s one thing if you want to plunge into it after a bath, another thing if you need a reservoir for breeding carp and crucian carp. For admiring, an old bathtub dug into the ground and planted with plants may be enough. Most recommendations state that the area of the reservoir should be no more than 3% of the total area of the site.
Often the dimensions directly depend on the size of the budget of the “pond project” - when, during the calculations, the cost of film ceases to fit within the boundaries of reason, or when you realize that the pit will have to be dug manually, a decision is made to make its size smaller.
Andrey 64 FORUMHOUSE Member
The depth also depends on. As an option, you can dig a large barrel into the bottom, in which the crucian carp can sit out until spring. But
The lowest point of the pond is located below the freezing level of the soil.
Ashwood Member of FORUMHOUSE, Moscow.
Ask anglers about the ice thickness in your area and multiply by 1.5, since a small body of water freezes more strongly.
How to dig a pit
Having determined the size and shape of the pit, we mark its contours. If a rectangular pond is planned, pegs are driven in at the site of the future corners and a rope is pulled, but most often the pond is made in the shape of a bean, so the shape is laid out with a rope. The dimensions of a pit, which is dug with an excavator or manually, can be calculated using the formula for the volume of a truncated cone - the Internet is full of calculators where all you have to do is enter the dimensions.
The walls of the pit, the future banks, are leveled and terraces are made. The bottom of an ordinary country pond is made three-level. The depth of the first terrace is approximately 30 cm, the second - approximately 60, on the third level - maximum depth. If it is more than 120, then the reservoir is suitable for fish farming, and then at the bottom they either dig a pit for wintering, or, as mentioned above, use a barrel.
The first two zones can be used for planting. , in the second zone, so usually small excavations are made there in advance, before filling with water. Shallow water is necessary - the water in this place always warms up, fry gather there, etc.
Choosing hydrolysis
Mike User FORUMHOUSE
Waterproofing is necessary. Otherwise the water will not hold. It is a very rare case when there are hydrogeological conditions for a natural reservoir.
Before they appeared artificial materials for waterproofing ponds, it was made from clay. The so-called clay castle FORUMHOUSE users They do it now, mainly by creating so-called eco-ponds, or when the size of the reservoir forces them to do so - covering it with film turns out to be too expensive. A clay castle is three layers of clay 15 cm high, applied to the bottom of a pit. This one has old-fashioned method there are a few subtleties - to repel worms, before applying the first layer of clay, the bottom of the pit is first sprinkled with a layer of soot, etc. This is a complex and labor-intensive technology. To prevent the bottom from cracking over time, the clay for the castle is “greasy”, with a minimum sand content, each layer is well compacted and completely dried, and only then the next one is applied. Large stones are poured onto the clay castle, small stones are poured onto them, and river sand is placed on them.
Mike
The complexity of the work on constructing a clay castle exceeds even reinforced concrete works. Each piece of clay must be well pressed and smeared. Otherwise, the water will find a hole and escape.
If we talk about artificial waterproofing, then on our portal preference is given to different types geomembranes, there are also adherents. The most available material film remains high pressure(PVD), but this is the least reliable look waterproofing, although many owners of reservoirs speak of this material as durable and resistant to mechanical damage. Next, in ascending order of cost, service life, winter hardiness and reliability, are:
- PVC film, service life 10-15 years;
- Butyl rubber film, service life up to 50 years. This material is recommended for deep reservoirs (deeper than 2-3 meters) due to its high strength and ability to stretch three times without loss of performance;
- Liquid waterproofing. But we are not talking about a pond that experts will make for us on a turnkey basis, but about a reservoir that we will make our own with my own hands, so we will not consider this option. We will also leave options for rigid waterproofing - ready-made “bathtubs” of ponds of almost any size and with terracing, which are installed in a prepared pit.
DreiW User FORUMHOUSE
I’m thinking about how to waterproof... butyl is expensive, HDPE/LDPE film is unreliable, concrete is both expensive and cannot be altered (in case you want to change the shape). Maybe compact several layers of clay through textiles?
When choosing a material for waterproofing, it is recommended to pay attention not only to its cost. It is equally important that the composition does not contain dangerous chemical additives, that the material is resistant to ultraviolet radiation, frost-resistant, resistant to mechanical damage and durable (when purchasing, check it for tearing).
How to calculate film size
To calculate the film, we need to take measurements in order to know exactly: the length of the reservoir, the width of the reservoir and its greatest depth.
The size of the film is calculated using the formula: length/width of the film = length/width of the reservoir + 2 depths + 1 m.
That is, to determine the length of the film, we take the length of the pit, add to it two of its depths and another meter (half a meter for reserve on each side).
We also determine the width of the film.
DreiW
It seems to me that we first need to see what standard sizes There are canvases in width, and then fit a pond under them so as not to cut/glue. It will be cheaper.
So, for a pond 9 meters long, 5 meters wide and 1.5 meters deep, according to our calculations, a piece of film 3x9 meters will be required.
How to make waterproofing
Mike
Waterproofing is made from a single piece of special film, which is laid in the foundation pit. Decorated with boulders and pebbles. Water is pouring. A pump with a filtration unit is installed. You can attach a stream or waterfall to the pond. Add underwater lighting. The water corner is ready.
The above instructions can be considered exhaustive. We dug a pit and bought film. If you can’t find a suitable whole piece, you can glue it together, but it’s better to entrust this work to specialists, because the quality of the seams must be really high.
Before laying the film, all stones and roots are removed from the bottom of the pit, and it is better to fill the bottom of the reservoir with sand. Geotextiles are placed on top and waterproofing material is placed on top.
The film is laid on a warm day, because exposure to heat makes it more elastic. The edges of the film are fixed on top with soil and stones. The film must rest for some time, and then it is slowly filled with water.
The idea to dig a pond on my property came to me several years ago. But, since this work is labor-intensive and difficult in terms of creative approach, its beginning was delayed for a long time. Finally, during my next vacation, I decided to get down to business and follow step by step all the steps necessary to create a pond. It was decided to make the pond film, with a geotextile lining. Plant it with plants and get some fish. Install an aerator for fish. Water circulation is also planned through a small waterfall with three cascades. It was made initially, even before digging a pit for a pond, from a pile of stones laid on a man-made clay hill. Water will circulate in a closed circle from the pond to the waterfall using an inexpensive bottom pump.
That's all the initial data. Now I will proceed directly to the story about the construction of the pond, trying not to miss the details.
First of all, I took a shovel and dug a pit with plan dimensions of 3x4 m. I tried to make the shape natural, round, without sharp corners. After all, in nature, coastlines are always smooth, without straight lines; these should also be followed when creating an artificial pond. At its deepest point, the pit reached 1.6 m below ground level. It would be possible to do less, but in my case it involves breeding wintering fish, which requires a minimum of 1.5-1.6 m.
There are 3 terraces on the rise of the pit. The first (shallow water) is at a depth of 0.3 m, the second is 0.7 m, the third is 1 m. All are 40 cm wide, so that it is possible to install pots with plants on them. Terracing is performed for more natural look water surface. And also for placing aquatic plants, the type of which will determine the number of terraces and their depth. You need to think about this in advance. For planting cattails, for example, a depth of 0.1-0.4 m is needed, for nymphs - 0.8-1.5 m.
The pit for the pond should be multi-level, with several terraces
Stage #2 – laying geotextiles
The pit was dug, stones and roots were selected from the bottom and walls. Of course, you can immediately start laying the film, but this option seemed too risky to me. Firstly, seasonal movements of the soil can lead to the fact that the pebbles that were in the thickness of the soil change their position and break through the film with sharp edges. The same thing will happen if the roots of trees or shrubs growing nearby reach the film. And the last factor - on our site there are mice that dig underground passages and, if desired, can easily get to the film. Need protection. Namely, geotextiles. It will prevent rodents, roots and other unpleasant factors from damaging the film.
I bought geotextile 150 g/m2, carefully laid it out and brought the edges slightly to the shore (about 10-15 cm - as it turned out). Temporarily secured with stones.
Geotextiles are laid with edges facing the shore
Stage #3 – waterproofing
Perhaps the most important stage is the creation of waterproofing. It can be neglected if the hydrogeological conditions of your site allow the creation of natural reservoirs. But such cases are very rare and it is better not to risk it, so that you don’t have to redo everything later.
So, waterproofing is needed. In my case, it is a dense butyl rubber film specially designed for ponds and reservoirs.
Initially, I want to dissuade you from using polyethylene films, sold in regular hardware stores and used for lining greenhouses. Especially if your pond is large enough. This insulation will last for 1-2 years, then, most likely, it will leak and everything will have to be redone. Extra headaches and expenses are guaranteed. You need a special film, for ponds - made of PVC or butyl rubber. The last option is the highest quality; the strength of the butyl rubber film will last for 40-50 years for sure, and maybe even more. The advantage of rubber waterproofing is that it stretches well. The water pressure in the pond will sooner or later lead to subsidence of the soil. In this case, the film is stretched. The PVC may crack or come apart at the seams. Butyl rubber will simply stretch, like rubber, it can withstand significant stretching without consequences.
I calculated the dimensions of the film required for my pond as follows: the length is equal to the length of the pond (4 m) + double the maximum depth (2.8 m) + 0.5 m. The width is determined in the same way.
I spread the film over the geotextile, bringing 30 cm of the edges to the shore. I tried to smooth out the wrinkles on the bottom and walls, but I wasn’t particularly successful. I decided to leave it as is. Moreover, the folds will compensate for temperature changes and there is no need to pull it too tightly.
A pit covered with butyl rubber film will hold water in the pond
After laying out, it is necessary to fix the edges of the film. It is impossible to leave them open on the ground, since water will get between the film and the walls of the pit. The appearance of water bubbles is inevitable, due to which the film will have to be removed. And this is very difficult, especially with large pond sizes.
I decided to dig in the edges of the film and thereby secure them firmly. At a distance of 10 cm from the edges of the pond, I dug a ditch, 15 cm deep. I laid the edges of the film inside and covered them with earth. I covered the whole thing with turf on top. It turned out to be a real coastline, overgrown with grass!
Stage #4 – starting the water
Now you can start the water. I threw a hose into the pit and pumped water from the well. The water took several hours to collect. As the film was filled, the folds became confused and had to be straightened. But in the end the tension turned out to be quite uniform.
A pond filled with water must settle for some time to establish a biobalance
And one more important detail that is worth mentioning. Along with clean water from the well, I poured a bucket of water from a natural reservoir into the pond. This is necessary to accelerate the formation of biobalance. In other words, water from a reservoir with an existing biosphere will help to quickly install the same one in a new pond. There will be no balance, the water will become cloudy and green in a matter of days. And soon it will resemble not a pond, but a swamp with greenish slurry. Activation of the biosystem will also be facilitated by plants planted in water on the bottom.
I immersed the pump to a depth of 0.5 m; it supplies water to the upper cascade of the waterfall and to a small garden fountain. The water division is adjusted directly on the pump.
Water circulation in the pond occurs due to a fountain and a waterfall
Stage #5 – planting plants and launching fish
Plants are a separate topic. I wanted to plant a lot of things so that the pond would immediately, from the first days, create the appearance of a natural, natural reservoir. So I went to the market and picked up marsh irises, whitewings, water hyacinths, and several nymphs. To landscape the shore, I took a couple of lobelia bushes, loosestrife, and white calla bulbs.
Upon arrival, this seemed to me not enough, so I made a foray to the nearest pond (from which I drew water for biobalance) and dug up several bushes of young cattail. It will grow and purify the water. It's a pity that there is nothing else suitable in this pond. Otherwise you wouldn’t have to buy anything. Perhaps you will be luckier and in a nearby pond you will find all the plants you need to garden your own pond. After all, almost all aquatic plants grow in our natural reservoirs. With some luck, you can find and pick sedge, cattail, yellow irises, calamus, loosestrife, yellow egg pods and much more.
On the upper terrace I placed balcony boxes and baskets with planted cattails, whiteflies, water hyacinths, marsh irises. I planted it in heavy fertile soil and covered it with pebbles on top so that the fish wouldn’t drag the soil away and tear out the roots.
I planted nymphs in baskets - I have 4 of them. I also covered it with pebbles on top. I placed the baskets on the middle terrace, the one that is 0.7 m deep. Then, as the stem grows, I will lower the basket lower until I install it permanently 1-1.5 m above the water level.
Aquatic plants are planted in baskets and boxes in shallow water
Nymphea flowers last only a few days, then close and sink under water
Lobelia and loosestrife were planted along coastline. I also dug calla lily bulbs there. The loosestrife very quickly began to lower its branches directly into the pond. Soon the film will no longer be visible on the rise! Everything will be overgrown with grass, loosestrife, calligraphy and other planted plants.
At first, the water in the pond was as clear as a tear. I thought that would be the case. But after 3 days I noticed that the water had become cloudy and the bottom was no longer visible. And then, a week later, she became clean again - a biological balance was established. I waited another two weeks and decided that it was time to introduce the fish - all the conditions for its living had been created.
I went to the bird market and bought several suitable specimens of comets (almost gold fish) and crucian carp - gold and silver. Only 40 fish! He let everyone out. Now they are frolicking near the fountain.
The pond with running fish looks magical!
For a comfortable stay for the fish, an aerator was connected. The compressor is 6 W, so it works constantly and does not consume electricity. In winter, an aerator is especially useful. Saturation of water with oxygen and polynyas will be ensured.
This concludes the master class. I think it turned out very well. The most important indicator of this is pure water. As such, I do not have mechanical filtration. The balance is regulated by a variety of plants, an aerator, water circulation through a waterfall and a fountain using a pump.
As for finances, most of the funds went to butyl rubber film. I dug the pit myself; if you hire an excavator or a team of diggers, you will have to pay, but the hole will be dug quickly. Plants are not too expensive (and if you take them from a natural pond, then they are generally free), and neither are fish.
So everything is real. If you are not afraid of significant labor costs (especially for digging a pit) and the need for a creative approach, go ahead. As a last resort, if you are unlucky with a design streak, look through photographs of ponds in magazines or on the pages of specialized websites. Find what you like and try to make something similar for yourself. And then – enjoy the result and your own pond on the site.
Ivan Petrovich
