Having a tank at their disposal, many resort to purchasing a faucet for a plastic barrel. The motives for this may be different, but inevitably the owner is faced with the problem of embedding drain device into the design. On the one hand, this is quite simple - the material of the case makes it easy to make a hole in it. But in practice you always have to face difficulties, and you cannot do without instructions.
Tap for plastic barrels - a practical solution
This solution allows you to simplify draining liquid from the container, making it quick and convenient. Many people have tanks that hold more than 100 liters, and then the problem of using it arises - tilting it is inconvenient and difficult, and it is almost impossible to get liquid from the bottom. A water barrel with a tap makes it possible to get as much liquid as you want at any time, dose it, and regulate the pressure.
Before you insert the tap into the barrel, you need to select it. But you should immediately figure out how it will be attached. We will consider a drain option that is equipped with an internal thread.
Do you need a reliable water container in your garden? One of the options is a Eurocube, in which it can be accumulated and then used as needed. It is interesting because it holds 1000 liters of water, it is compact and easy to install, as it is made of durable polymer. All that remains is to install the drain faucet for the Eurocube with your own hands. There is nothing complicated about this, except for some nuances, which we will talk about throughout the article.
First, we will analyze the container itself in detail - what it is, where it is used, what it is, and then we will install a crane suitable for the Eurocube. Our task is to help establish water supply in a suburban area.
What is a Eurocube
This is the name given to a polymer container made in the shape of a cube.
Due to the use of durable material, the product is widely used:
- on construction sites;
- at car washes;
- in the oil and chemical industries;
- in everyday life.
To protect the polymer structure, an external metal grill is used, and a tray is also installed below it, increasing the protection of the product. Thanks to this, the Eurocube can compete with other stronger and more expensive containers.
The weight of the finished structure is approximately 60 kg. The container has a neck with a lid for filling liquid; a special valve can be used through which air is passed inside; it all depends on what exactly needs to be transported in it.
The last one, but an important detail is the drain flanged or coupling ball valve with a diameter of approximately 30 mm. The container is classified as medium-tonnage containers.
Standard
Although the Eurocube may vary in size, volume and materials used for its manufacture, the standards all exist:
| Outer packaging | Usually it is rigid - steel lathing and a pallet. The latter can be plastic or wooden, it all depends on the purpose. |
| Form | In the form of a cube. |
| Material | ND polyethylene is used high density, most often - PE 100. |
| Thickness | The wall can have a thickness of 1.5-2 mm, the size depends on its purpose. |
| Color | Usually - natural white, although the instructions allow you to color it in any color. |
| Tap | Ball is more reliable, installation is possible piston version, however, it will serve much less time. |
By type, Eurocubes are classified into:
- Food– used mainly for storing water and products (for example, oil, vinegar, ethyl alcohol).
- Technical– usually used for transportation and storage of acids, alkalis and fuel.
The price of the product depends on the manufacturer, as well as whether it is new or used. The difference can reach 7,000 rubles. Now we will deal with the cranes for the Eurocube and how to install them on it.
Coupling valve
- A type of ball valve that is connected to a water tank using couplings that have an internal. The product may also have an internal tapered thread.
- The tap is opened by turning the handle counterclockwise until it stops. Full opening occurs when the handle is installed parallel to it; it closes by turning the handle clockwise.
- Very often such a tap can be found in heating and water supply systems.
- Device modifications:
- economy version - single-hull or monolithic;
- a frequently used design is a two-piece one, which also includes a body;
- repairable - three-part or collapsible (you can repair the faucet yourself).
In the photo there is a container with a water tap on the site
Tip: when choosing, you need to take into account the diameter of the adapter from the Eurocube so that it matches the internal diameter of the tap.
Installation
- Before installation, clean the faucet from sand and dust; carry out installation only by closing it completely.
- Prepare flax thread for skeins of thread or plumbing fum tape.
- Wind the thread or tape around the threads, making sure all grooves are filled.
- If using thread, squeeze sealant onto it.
- Screw the faucet onto the adapter by hand. If everything is done correctly, it will turn almost two turns.
- Take wrench and finish screwing on the tap.
Device characteristics - plus:
- low cost;
- low weight and dimensions;
- long service life;
- versatility and reliability of the design;
- does not require maintenance;
- installation is permitted in any position;
- seals the flow, and this can be done very quickly.
Disadvantage: long levers or expensive electric drives are required to close when using the device automatically.
Advice: when assembling the coupling valve, care must be taken so as not to cause deformation of parts and failure of the product.
Conclusion
Eurocube - plastic container increased strength due to the use metal frame and pallet. Products are used in various fields our life activity.
For ease of use, a drain valve (coupling or flange) is provided, which is most often connected through an adapter. The video in this article will give you the opportunity to find Additional information on the above topic.
Those who use plastic canisters know how inconvenient it is to use them and pour something from them, especially when they are full. The canister will definitely “gurgle” and spill some of the contents past. And it’s good if it’s just water, and not gasoline, oil or a combustible mixture for a two-stroke lawn mower or chainsaw engine. You have to lift the canister completely in your hands so that its neck is at the very top, and carefully drain the contents. But the canister can be quite heavy and contain dangerous liquids. In addition, large-diameter funnels are constantly required so that the contents do not splash out during the “gurgle.”
To avoid such troubles, you need to equip the canister with another “neck” - a small diameter fitting with a stopper, or a small tap. Through them you will consume the contents of the canister.
The tools we need are a hot-melt gun and hot-melt glue. With their help in plastic canister You can glue any fitting or tap perfectly and reliably. To do this, it is enough to make a hole in a place convenient for further use of the canister and glue in the fitting.
But this technique is good to use when the flange of the fitting is not located flush with its end, but rather in the middle of the fitting. Then part of the fitting fits inside the canister and is perfectly fixed. And secondly, the contents of the canister are not under pressure. Otherwise, it will constantly strive to tear the fitting out of the canister wall. And adhesives do not work very well on tearing.
Therefore, it is always good if the flange of the fitting is located inside the canister. Then the liquid pressure would always press the flange of the fitting or tap to the wall of the canister and would not tear it off. But how can you do this if the neck of the canister is narrow and your hand cannot fit through it?
The problem is actually solved quite simply, with the help of a strong rope or wire. We pass it through the neck of the canister and release it through the hole for the fitting. This rope or wire will serve as both a conductor for the fitting and a clamp when gluing it.
We put a fitting on a rope or wire, and tie a “plug” to the rope, such that it goes into the neck of the canister, but does not go into the fitting itself. It is advisable to leave a “tail” on the rope behind the cork, by which we will then pull the cork back. Now our fitting, as if on a thread (it is actually on a thread), will fall into correct hole. If you pull the rope or wire, the plug will press the fitting to the wall and we can apply glue without any problems. Or rather, it must be applied immediately before pressing the fitting.
Of course, you can also use the threaded method of attaching the fitting to the wall of the canister. It is only necessary to use reliable elastic gaskets to seal the joint between the fitting and the canister wall.
This way you can equip the canister with another neck and it will become much more convenient to use. To prevent the canister from “gurgling,” before using a new neck, you need to slightly unscrew the cap on the main neck so that air can freely penetrate into the canister as the liquid flows out of it.
The photo shows an example of how a “faucet” from a bag of wine is embedded in a canister. Supermarkets sell wine in 3-5 liter boxes. In fact, inside the cardboard bag there is a plastic bag equipped with a tap that operates on the principle of “press and flow.” The package itself is quite problematic to use. But the faucet from it can serve. With the help of such a canister it is extremely convenient to fill a chainsaw or lawn mower with the fuel mixture. No funnel is required. The spout of the tap is quite narrow, it is brought to the filler neck of the gas tank and a stream fuel mixture It flows straight into the tank. “Not a drop of fuel for the enemy” (and on the ground). You can add fuel for literally a minute of operation. This is usually important when operating 2-stroke engines, since it is not recommended to leave fuel in the tank and especially the carburetor. Gasoline evaporates, oil remains, and as a result - a serious complication of the next start. Therefore, it is better to refuel at least 2-3 times during operation than to fill the fuel “under the cap” and then drain it or empty it.
It is also convenient to cut (glue) the second neck into the canister at the top, but on the opposite side, relative to the main neck. This second neck makes using the canister much more convenient.
Sometimes a summer resident has at his disposal metal barrels with a narrow hole in one of the bottoms, closed with a screw-on cap. Using such barrels directly is very difficult and inconvenient. The neck of such a barrel is so narrow that even a child’s hand will not fit into it. And the summer resident, creaking his heart, makes up his mind and cuts off the lid metal barrel entirely. But precipitation, garbage, dust fly into an open barrel... The water in the barrel becomes polluted much faster. Or he refuses to use such a barrel altogether.
The method described above makes it easy to insert the fitting into any place in the barrel. Whether to the bottom or to lateral surface. Of course, either welding or epoxy resin, or simply, threaded connection with gaskets. Thus, a summer resident can use “inconvenient” barrels according to their direct purpose. It is especially good to use such a barrel as an intermediate receiver at low pressure, 0.3 - 0.5 atm, since open barrels cannot be used in this way. Or as a container for summer shower. Neither dirt nor debris will get into such a barrel. And it’s easier to insulate such a barrel. You can also use the barrel in a “lying” position, and not just vertically. Sometimes it's the most the best way its placement, for example, as a storage tank for water in the attic.
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Plastic barrels are widely used in various fields of activity - they can be used for storing and transporting oils, fuels, chemical substances and other liquids. But if the container is used in everyday life as storage tank for water, it becomes necessary to screw a tap into it so that it is convenient to use the contents.
Technology for installing a tap in a barrel with a large hole using an American coupling
One person cannot cope with the task on his own; if the barrel is even 200 liters, he will need an assistant. The following materials are needed:
- American coupling straight 3/4 inch with internal and external thread;
- valve with external thread;
- screw;
- 2 rubber gaskets;
- 2 washers of suitable size (you can make homemade ones from plastic).
IN plastic barrel prepare the hole using a drill with an 18-19 mm drill bit. The “American” should not fit into it freely, but should be screwed in with some effort.
The assembly sequence is as follows:
- the “American” is assembled and a tap is screwed into it;
- A plastic washer and a rubber gasket are placed on the coupling from the external thread side;
- the assembled structure is tightly inserted into the hole on the barrel;
- inside the container, a gasket is put on the “American”, and then a washer;
- the nut is attached and securely tightened.
For more effective sealing, the junction between the inside and outside of the barrel can be treated with silicone sealant.
The sequence of installing a tap in a barrel with a narrow neck using a fitting
For this method, you will need a fitting with external threads on both sides (without a flange in the middle) or a regular short-length tube with a continuous external thread. On one end you need to put an elastic gasket, a washer and screw the nut to the middle (if a tube) or all the way (if a fitting).
A hole is drilled in the barrel. A strong rope is taken, passed through the neck and released into the tap hole. A prepared fitting is put on the rope, and any limiter is tied to its edge, which will fit into the narrow neck of the container, but will stop in the fitting (tube).
The rope with the fitting must be pulled from the side of the hole for installing the faucet very carefully so that the washer and gasket do not fall off. After the device gets into the slot, a gasket and washer are put on the tube (fitting) and tightened tightly with a nut. The tap is screwed onto the remaining thread.
