When purchasing a home aquarium, you need to take care not only of selecting beautiful fish, but also of creating good conditions for their life. During the life of the fish, the water in the aquarium gradually becomes cloudy from the remains of food, medicines and vitamins. In addition, fish need oxygen in the water, otherwise they will swim on the surface all the time or even get sick.
Why install a cleaning system in your aquarium?
Aquarium filters easily cope with water purification due to the presence of special barriers that retain contaminants. According to the principle of purification, these devices are divided into three types:
with mechanical filtration (direct retention of small contaminants using a sponge or pressed crumbs);
with chemical filtration (water purification using activated carbon or other substances);
with biofiltration (water purification using bacteria).
Outside or inside?
According to the method of placement, aquarium filters are divided into two types - internal and external. As a rule, external ones are more powerful and are more often used for cleaning relatively large aquariums. But if desired, any type of filter can be used in both small and large aquariums.
In this case, the choice is determined rather by the personal preferences of the owners. Some people like it better appearance aquarium with one type of cleaning or another, some people find one type of fastening more convenient for themselves.
Objectively, we can highlight some main characteristics of different types:
the internal filter does not take up extra space while inside the aquarium;
the external one is more convenient to maintain, since to clean it you do not need to replant the fish and work in the water, pulling out and then installing the device again;
the external filter has a higher cleaning ability due to the fact that it has the ability to use several filter materials placed in different containers;
There is also an opinion that an external filter better enriches the water with oxygen, so it is preferable to choose it for those species of fish for which this point is especially important.
As a rule, installing an internal filter in a home aquarium is not difficult, thanks to the presence of a special suction cup mount. There are just a few points that should definitely be taken into account.
Firstly, the device itself needs immerse completely in water. There should be at least 1.5-2 cm of water above the top.
Secondly, the flexible hose connected to the filter part must be routed to the outer wall of the aquarium. It is through this that air is supplied to the water.
Otherwise, it's pretty easy to install. So, how to install a filter in an aquarium:
Let us add that it is better to first set the air speed regulator to the middle position, and then fine-tune the work based on the comfort of the fish. Some fish like to swim in strong currents, while some, on the contrary, feel uncomfortable in such conditions.
Never work in water with the device plugged in! First you need to make sure that it is turned off and only then adjust its operation. It is also impossible to leave the filter turned off for a long time, since its functions are very important for fish.
How to install an external filter
What is important here is first of all correctly assemble the structure itself. It consists of the filter itself and two hoses, one of which takes dirty water into the purification system, and the second removes it already purified.
According to the instructions in the box, carefully assemble the filter. It may consist of several containers that are filled with special material. The system cover should snap tightly into place. (If this does not happen, check to see if the containers are overfilled).
Only after this, connect both hoses. The water outlet hose is shorter than the filler hose.
Then fill both hoses and the filter itself with water, and only then can you connect the device to the network.
To summarize, we can say that installing a cleaning system for an aquarium is not particularly difficult. You just need to choose the appropriate model, follow the instructions and comply basic safety rules:
Do not leave the device switched off in water for a long time. Moreover, do not turn it on after this without cleaning it. Otherwise, the fish may get poisoned.
Carry out all manipulations in water only after disconnecting the device from the network.
Never turn on the filter without immersing it in water, otherwise it may be damaged.
Remember to periodically clean the entire system.
If you want the fish in your aquarium to always be healthy and cheerful, you will have to take care of the cleanliness of the water. Aquarium water must be regularly cleaned of food residues and dirt, otherwise the water will quickly become incompatible with the life of the inhabitants of the aquarium.
A special aquarium filter can best cope with the task of purifying water from dirt. An aquarium filter not only cleans the water from dirt and food debris, but also removes soluble medications used to treat fish. In addition, it ensures water circulation and oxygen saturation, which is extremely important for the fauna contained in the aquarium.
Aquarium filters are divided into two categories: external and internal. Internal filters are placed under the surface of the water, while external filters are located outside the aquarium. There is no fundamental difference between them in terms of benefits for the aquarium; the whole difference lies in the ease of caring for them. Filters require timely maintenance and cleaning, otherwise, instead of being useful, they can begin to cause harm to the aquarium.
How to install a filter in an aquarium?
It's not difficult, but you need to know how to do it correctly. The internal filter is installed under water at a distance of several centimeters from the surface. It is usually strengthened by inner surface aquarium using the suction cups included with the filter. A small flexible hose is attached to a special “spout” on the filter housing, through which air is supplied to the filter. This hose should extend to the outside of the aquarium. Usually the filter kit includes a special mount that can be used to secure the hose to the upper edge of the aquarium wall.
The filter most often contains an air supply regulator, which is best initially set to the middle position. After installing and turning on the filter, the position of the regulator can be set to the required position, depending on the “team” of your aquarium. The fact is that some fish prefer fast currents, while others absolutely cannot stand it.
The filter can be connected to the network only after all its parts have been installed and connected. Feel free to plug it into the network, but remember that in the future any manipulations with the filter can only be done after unplugging it from the outlet. This should be done for safety reasons, because no device is immune to malfunctions, and using a faulty device in water can lead to electric shock.
When correct installed filter During its operation, there may be no air bubbles, which may surprise the aquarium owner. Air bubbles may not be observed if the filter is set to a low water flow. In this case, a sign of proper operation of the filter will be a slight disturbance on the surface of the water. This excitement is quite enough to supply the water with oxygen, since these small waves capture it from the air.
An internal filter is good if there is no excess around the aquarium free space, and the inhabitants of the aquarium do not require too much oxygen. A relative disadvantage of the internal filter is its low ease of maintenance. An alternative to an internal filter is an external filter.
This device is much more convenient to maintain, clean and replace filter elements. At the same time, the external filter does not submerge in water and does not cause discomfort in the habitat of the aquarium fauna. But an external filter is required extra space for placing it near the aquarium. If the aquarium owner can afford it, then an external filter is quite suitable for him.
Characteristic design feature external filter is the presence of two hoses, into one of which water is sucked from the aquarium, and through the other, after purification, it is sent back. A small motor is installed inside the filter, which sets the water in motion.
Installation of an external filter begins with careful and careful assembly of the housing according to the instructions supplied with the filter. At this stage, the hoses are not connected to the filter.
Next, hoses for water intake and release are strengthened in the aquarium. The hose for releasing water is usually shorter than the hose for taking it in. After securing the hoses, you need to attach them to the filter housing, and then fill both hoses and the filter with water “by gravity.” After filling the filter with water, it can be plugged into a power outlet. The purr of water and its movement will notify you that the filter installation process was completed correctly.
If this does not happen, then the culprit is most likely a common error when installing the filter - the formation air lock in the filter pipes. You can try to solve this problem by turning the filter on and off several times in short periods of time. If this does not help, then the hoses will have to be refilled with water as described above.
An aquarium filter is the life support system of any aquarium. Fish produce various wastes and if not removed, pollution can lead to the death of the fish as they cannot survive in their own waste.
In nature, toxic fish waste products, such as ammonia, dissolve in large volumes of water or are carried away by currents. The water in the aquarium is limited and we cannot change the water constantly, so we use technical developments and a little help from Mother Nature to establish effective filtration.
Mechanical filters
Traps debris and solids in water. When they are clogged, filtration is ineffective and the operation of the pump/pump may decrease or stop, so they must be cleaned regularly or filter materials replaced. General forms mechanical filler: sponge or filter fibers.
Biological filtration
This is the processing of fish feces and other organic particles into less harmful forms, perhaps the most important in an aquarium, since without it, fish can die from ammonia poisoning. For biological filtration, we use porous media with large area surfaces, but it is not the filler that performs biofiltration - but what lives on it, which is very important.
The biological filler serves as a home for. The greater its quantity/volume, the greater the usable surface area and the more bacteria can live there. These microorganisms consume a lot of oxygen supplied to them from the pumped water, so long-term shutdown of the filter leads to their death due to lack of oxygen. Dead bacteria release substances that are dangerous to fish, so when you turn off the filter for more than one hour, you must thoroughly rinse the filter sponge to avoid poisons getting into the aquarium water.
Biological filter/material should not be washed under the tap as chlorine and chloramine will kill bacteria. It should be washed with water taken from the aquarium; under no circumstances should this water be poured back. Examples of biological filter materials are ceramic rings or plastic beads. The sponge will also work as a biological filter.
It takes time for new ones to form, so the filter should be running all the time and switched off for a maximum of one hour.
Chemical filtration
often used for fine tuning aquarium water. Most well known, it absorbs any impurities from water and makes it crystal clear and odorless. The good thing about carbon filler is that it is more porous and has large area absorbing surface. Resins are also used as chemical filter media and can be used to remove , and other organic contaminants. They can be used along with other filter media to control algae growth in your aquarium.
Filter types
Filters can be divided into internal and external, electric pump filters and air filters. Internal filters are located inside the aquarium, while external filters are located under the aquarium in a cabinet/stand, mounted on the back of the aquarium or can be built into its lid, above the water level.Modern filters can be equipped with additional options:
1. Aeration device.
2. The movable outlet tube changes the direction of water flow.
3. The power regulator makes it possible to reduce or increase the water flow.
4. Built-in heater.
5. Built-in UV sterilizer.
6. Power indicator helps determine the strength of the water jet and pump performance.
7. Electronic module with software.
Internal Filters
This is by far the most popular and most suitable filter for small aquariums and beginner aquarists. Essentially, the design of all internal filters is the same: aquarium water is passed through a filter material. The filter materials are located in a plastic container, in the walls of which there are holes for the passage of water. Water is forced through the filter using an electric pump located in the upper section of the filter. The lower part of the filter is removable and resembles a hollow glass in which the filter materials are placed.
Design and principle of operation of internal filters.
Some indoor pump filters come with a water flow regulator and an aeration device that introduces air into the water. While mechanical and biological filters are traditionally available, modern internal filters come with other additional options.
General instructions:
1. Find appropriate place in an aquarium for an internal filter. Installing the filter in the far corner makes it easy to hide pipes and equipment behind plants and other decorations.
2. Insert new replacement filter material. Place the filter in the aquarium and press the suction cups onto the glass. Make sure the filter is securely attached.
3. Double check that the filter is immersed in water, then connect the power cord to electrical outlet or surge protector. You will see bubbles coming out of the filter as soon as it begins to pass water through the cartridge.
Options for placing the internal filter.
Internal pump filters are the most widely used type of aquarium filter. This is especially true for small and medium-sized aquariums; in large aquariums, it is usually better to install it in conjunction with an external canister filter.
External Filters
A traditional external filter consists of a sealed canister connected to the aquarium with a hose at the inlet and outlet. External filters are larger and more powerful than most internal filters and can hold much more filter media, offering better cleaning and support more fish. External filters are especially useful for large, densely packed aquariums with large fish.
Design and principle of operation of external filters.
External filters are designed to conduct various types filtration - mechanical, biological and chemical, so they are universal. Installed under the aquarium for easy access and maintenance. The best ones are those that come with an auto-start mechanism, meaning they are easy to fill and start on the spot.
Air Filters
Air filters are a thing of the past for the most part, but they are still used today. Airlift filters are perhaps the weakest, so they create a slower flow of water and are less likely to suck in small creatures. Because of this, pneumatic sponge filters are popular among fish breeders, and in individual use they are suitable only for small nano-aquariums, while air pumps consume a small amount of electricity, offering low operating costs.
Methods of using air filters.
Bottom air filters were once very popular, but they can stunt plant growth. The bottom filter can be upgraded by installing a power head - a pump.
Which one is better for me?
1. The choice of filter may depend on your budget, experience and the species of fish you want to keep. The quality of filtration depends on the volume of filter material, so the more the better - this is in the order of things.
2. External filters are more expensive and a little more technical to set up, but they are the best filters for your fish.
3. For small aquariums, an internal pump filter will be sufficient.
May vary significantly in their filtration capacity, noise rating and durability. Well-established brands tend to be more expensive, but may be more profitable in the long run. Most people are satisfied with less expensive brands as they suit their needs and budget.
One of the important questions that worries novice aquarists is how to install a filter in an aquarium? This small but important device will make the life of your pets much more comfortable, so you can’t do without it.
Types of filters
Before installing a filter in an aquarium, you need to decide which type of filter you need. They differ mainly in the way the filter is installed in the aquarium - to the outside or interior wall(under the water). Most often used at home compact devices that are mounted inside containers with water. Their power varies depending on the volume of the aquarium. Other types, external or bottom, are used much less frequently, usually with large volumes of water.
The principle of operation is the same for everyone - Pressurized water is forced through the filter material, in which all the dregs are retained. Over time, beneficial bacteria multiply inside and help keep the aquarium clean. In addition, in some filters special impregnation improves chemical composition water. Another one important detail: By constantly mixing the water in the aquarium, there will always be enough oxygen, and the fish will not constantly stay near the surface.
So, most likely you will be dealing with an internal filter. They are more compact, cheaper and easier to care for. Bottom ones can now be found extremely rarely, and external ones are usually used by professionals.
Filter installation
The aquarium must be pre-filled with water. Filter needed first assemble completely, then immerse in water(not plugged into the network) and attach to the inner wall at a distance of about three centimeters from the surface (as a rule, suction cups are provided in the design). If the depth does not allow this, simply leave as much space at the top as possible. From below the device should not rest on the bottom. Water constantly evaporates, so the distance must be checked regularly.
The end of the transparent tube that takes air from the room must be brought outside. It’s convenient when it has a special mount that helps hold the tube on the glass. If you already have an aeration system installed, then this part may not be used. Only after you have installed the aquarium filter, plug it into a power outlet. The appearance of a flow indicates that you did everything right. The wire should hang freely, going down from the outlet.
The hole from which purified water flows is usually equipped with a damper, which allows you to regulate the strength and direction of the flow. Observe how the water moves, and if you want to correct something, first disconnect the device from the power supply.
Terms of use
First of all, you need to remember that you can turn off the filter only to clean it of accumulated dirt. Do not leave the device turned off in water, and even more so, you should not turn on the filter after it has been turned off for some time (half a day or longer), because this way you risk poisoning your fish. Before installing such a filter in an aquarium, it must be thoroughly washed, or better yet, the filter material must be replaced.
Before immersing your hands in water, unplug the filter from the outlet. After manipulations (cleaning the aquarium, catching fish, etc.) be sure to turn the filter back on.
The filter can only be connected to the network if it is completely submerged in water. It will quickly break if exposed to air.
To clean the filter, unplug it, turn off any other electrical appliances present, and then remove the appliance from the water.
There are a huge number of articles on the Internet dedicated to starting an aquarium. On our website there are also similar articles telling about , , , and also. These materials are certainly useful, however, they are narrowly focused. In this connection, there is a need to write full-scale material that would serve as instructions and guidance for action for beginners.
Let's first determine the goals and objectives, the stages of starting an aquarium, as well as the equipment base and aquarium chemistry that will be needed.
The main goal is to show the novice aquarist that “the aquarium devil is not scary, as he is painted”! Additional, but no less important goals:
Show that a beautiful aquarium with plants is “too tough” for everyone! That it is not difficult to create and maintain.
Give step-by-step instructions.
Teach a beginner to “see his aquarium” and develop an unconventional way of thinking about aquariums.
Objectives of this review:
Create a beautiful aquarium herbalist.
Show the dynamics of the development of the aquarium: one month, three months, six months.
When arranging an aquarium, use the maximum possible palette of aquarium plants, which will make it possible to see the development of an individual plant and its reaction to a particular action.
Despite the abundance of plants that will be used, show the basics of aquascape - the basics of hardscape, the rules for using driftwood and stones when building an aquarium composition.
Show the procedure, the basics of caring for an aquarium, and also give practical training on the use of aquarium preparations when starting up and further life of an aquarium with live plants.
Coverage of related issues, nuances and tricks.
Equipment that will be used in the review
Aquarium complex Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L;
External filter Tetra EX 600 Plus;
Aquarium cabinet Tetra AquaArt 60l;
Aquarium chemistry:
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Aquarium installation:
- choosing a location for the aquarium;
Installation and installation of an aquarium cabinet;
Starting an aquarium:
Laying the aquarium substrate and soil;
Basics of hardscape (arrangement of stones and snags);
Planting (aquascape basics);
Use of starting chemistry;
Features of keeping an aquarium with plants: nuances and tricks;
Caring for the aquarium after launch:
Correct setting of biological balance;
Aquarium care in the first month;
Use of plant fertilizers;
Aquarium lighting (daylight mode);
Temperature conditions for the aquarium;
AQUARIUM INSTALLATION
This stage is quite simple and understandable, however, a number of beginners make fatal mistakes at the very early stage of creating an aquarium world.
Below, let's look at the rules for installing an aquarium:
The aquarium is installed in an area where there is no direct sunlight;
The aquarium is installed away from passages and doors. The best place- this is a corner of the room or a niche.
The aquarium should not be placed on unstable surfaces.
The aquarium should not be installed near central heating radiators, near other heating devices, in close proximity to household appliances, as well as on the windowsill.
The aquarium is installed taking into account the convenient placement of power outlets.
The aquarium looks aesthetically pleasing and comfortable on a specialized aquarium stand.
Educational film about starting an aquarium for beginners
And so we chose the place. We proceed to the actual installation of the aquarium. In this review we used an aquarium stand TetraAquaArt60l. white. This cabinet was delivered in durable, branded packaging and despite the fact that it was delivered by a transport company from Moscow, all its components, including glass door, were safe and sound. The cabinet itself is standard, with two shelves and a specially designed design back wall for convenient supply of aquarium equipment. The cabinet is easy to assemble. The kit includes a full set of accessories. And what was especially pleasing: the kit included the necessary furniture key. Probably, many of our readers have encountered the problem of lack of keys when buying furniture; this forced them to run around construction stores looking for the right hex wrench. IN in this case, there was no such problem, the cabinet was assembled in 20 minutes.
The next stage is installing the tube in the chosen location.
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IMPORTANT!!! Any tube, any surface on which the aquarium will stand must be leveled using a building level. The larger the aquarium, the more carefully you need to approach this issue. Any deviation of the aquarium from the horizontal is fraught with uneven load on one or another wall of the aquarium.
It should also be noted that the aquarium tube should not be installed close to the walls. It is necessary to maintain indentations for convenient supply of cords and hoses to the aquarium.
Installation of an aquarium. In this review we will install an aquarium complex TetraAquaArtDiscoverLine 60 L. This complex includes everything necessary equipment, which is needed to start the aquarium:
- aquarium tray;
- convenient aquarium lid;
- lighting + reflector;
Internal mounted filter;
Heater;
The aquarium itself is 60 liters. net volume;
And also two bottles of starting chemicals (TetraAquaSafe, EasyBalance) + TetraMin food.
Of course, all these components can be purchased separately. In this case, Tetra relieves the beginner from difficult choice aquarium equipment - everything is ready to start!
Procedure for installing an aquarium:
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The aquarium needs to be unpacked. Remove the cover. Remove all components of the complex.
Check the walls and edges of the aquarium for cracks and chips that could have occurred during transportation of the aquarium from the store to home.
Next, if necessary, you need to paste the background. If film is used as a background, the easiest way to attach it is to secure it with transparent tape to the outer back wall of the aquarium. Please note that the film must be attached to a dry surface. The film is secured with tape on all sides! This will save you from distortion of the background image caused by moisture getting between the glass and the background. For more information, see the article -
We install the aquarium on the cabinet. The bottom of the aquarium should be completely on the surface of the cabinet. Afterwards, we check again with a building level whether the aquarium is installed level.
LAUNCHING THE AQUARIUM
After the preparatory activities, the most enjoyable stage begins - launching the aquarium.
Laying the aquarium substrate and soil.
A novice aquarist needs to take the issue of laying the substrate and soil very seriously. After all, they play a vital role in the life of plants and the aquarium as a whole. The aquarium bottom substrate is both a source of nutrition for plants and a natural biological filter in which colonies of beneficial nitrifying bacteria settle.
The question of choosing a substrate and primer is specific, individual and depends on many factors. It is impossible to give a clear recommendation. Each aquarist, based on his own needs, must personally determine for himself what kind of substrate and what kind of soil he will need in a particular case. Below, we will try to highlight those aspects that a beginner should definitely pay attention to:
1. It is necessary to distinguish the substrate for the aquarium from the aquarium soil. The substrate is a nutrient substrate that contains the necessary nutritional elements that the plant absorbs through root system. Soil is a substrate that may also contain useful elements, but its main function is to cover the bottom of the aquarium.
2. The nutrient substrate is used only under the root system of aquarium plants. It should not be laid on the entire surface of the aquarium bottom, if the plants, say, will only be located in the corner, in which case the substrate is laid only in the corner. Or, for example, if you have a small amount of 5-10 plants, you can and even need to do without a substrate.
You can often see the following dialogue on aquarium forums:
« Newbie: I used such and such a substrate and planted 5 plants.
Forum member's answer: I hope you have an algae outbreak and greening of the aquarium. Since the substrate will emit a lot of radiation in the first month.”
What does it mean? All aquarium substrates are a nutrient substrate, in simple terms it is “soil, black soil”. The compositions of the substrates are different and the concentration of fertilizers in them is different.
From the above, we can conclude that before you buy a substrate, you need to clearly understand what exactly will be in your aquarium. If you put a substrate in the aquarium and do not plant the aquarium with a sufficient number of plants, then the substrate will “fog”, that is, it will release nutrients into the empty, which will cause an outbreak of algae - the lowest of the aquarium world.
3. If a small number of plants will be used in the design of the aquarium, you can feed them through the root system without a substrate. For example, placing tablets and... under the roots of plants. This will be quite enough for plants.
In this article we will use a substrate. In our opinion, this substrate is optimal for a beginner aquarist. It is balanced, contains all the necessary world elements and at the same time will protect the beginner from excessive concentration of fertilizers in the aquarium.
In addition, this substrate from Tetra, unlike others, can always be found in any city, in any pet store.
So, open the bucket, pour out the substrate and, using a ruler or construction spatula, distribute it evenly along the bottom of the aquarium. Please note: if the substrate is distributed over the entire area of the aquarium, you should try to distribute it so that at the front wall of the aquarium the thickness of the substrate is minimal (1-2 cm), and at the back wall of the aquarium, on the contrary, it is greater. This is done, firstly, in order to visually add volume to the aquarium, and, secondly, as a rule, plants are not planted in the foreground (with the exception of ground cover plants).
After the substrate has been laid, you can additionally make a layer of preparations that will “strengthen” it and/or make the aquarium substrate more “attractive” for colonies of nitrifying bacteria:
Crush a few tablets Tetra PlantaStart and scatter them evenly along the bottom, reinforcing the substrate;
- distribute granules;
Apply granules;
Dispense the required number of capsules.
You can even use crumbs.
At the same time, we draw the reader’s attention to the individuality of each aquarium. All of the above drugs can be used both together and separately.
For example, when starting the aquarium in this review, we did not use Tetra NitrateMinus Pearl because in the future we will use the new Tetra Balance Balls. We also took into account the fact that nitrate (NO3), although they are poison and the last link in the nitrogen cycle chain, at the same time NO3 is an important macro-fertilizer for plants. We also did not use Tetra InitialSticks, this was done intentionally, firstly, in order to protect ourselves from possible excessive concentration of fertilizers in the first month, and secondly, it was decided to use Tetra PlantaStart and Tetra Crypto to feed the plants, through root system and, thirdly, we will use liquid fertilizers, , , and . In this way and with such actions, we push the herbalist’s care of our aquarium to a more complex, but at the same time more “advanced” level - transferring it “to manual mode”, when we ourselves, based on the behavior of the aquarium, will make adjustments: increase or decrease the concentration of a particular fertilizer.
Before laying the soil, we only scattered Tetra Bactozym capsules. Detailed description You can read this drug by following the link given above. Here we will briefly say that Tetra Bactozyme is a drug that promotes rapid growth beneficial nitrifying bacteria, the drug creates an invisible film on which the bacteria “populate” and feed on it. By scattering Tetra Bactozyme capsules onto the substrate, we politely invite beneficial bacteria to quickly settle in the soil.
We proceed to the next stage - laying the soil. It is carried out according to the same rules as for the substrate (the thickness of the front wall is less). Let us just pay attention to the fact that not every soil is suitable for plants!!! Soil for aquarium plants must meet the following criteria:
1. Should be easy - this will contribute good development root system of plants.
2. It should be sloping - this will negate the possible formation of oxygen-free zones and eliminate the likelihood of acidification of the soil and substrate.
3. Must be porous - this will contribute to the development of a larger population of beneficial bacteria in the soil.
4. The soil should not “hiss.”
The soil meets all of the above requirements. This soil is a new product in the Tetra line of products and preparations for aquarium plants. That is why we will use it and test it in practice.
The basics of hardscape are the arrangement of stones and driftwood.
Any aquarium is a corner of wildlife, a microcosm that lives according to the laws and rules of Mother Nature. The harmony of the world is embodied in everything that we see in every bush and every branch. An aquarist must learn to see beauty and borrow its rules and laws from nature.
There are wonderful articles on our website that will help you take your first steps into the world of harmony; we strongly recommend that you read them:
In this review, we used diabase as stones, and also used intricate driftwood as the main design element and surface for growing mosses.
The reader should pay attention to the fact that stones, just like the soil, should be checked for “hissing” - they should not increase the hardness of the water. Diabase is a volcanic rock and in different areas the chemical composition of this stone is different - some diabase “sizzles”, others do not. Be sure to try to check the “stone decor” with vinegar for hissing. “Sizzling” stones and “sizzling” soil can only be used in aquariums where there are no plants and for fish that like hard water, such as most African cichlids.
The issue of using driftwood also has its own nuances! They are described in detail in our form thread -.
Here we note that you should not use the first log you come across in the aquarium. Take a closer look, choose a piece of driftwood, think about how it will look in the aquarium, how it will fit together in the overall aquarium composition.
Likewise, before incarnation design idea, we recommend that you make sketches of what you want (at least schematically) - this will make it much easier to bring your idea to life.
Planting plants in an aquarium.
In this review, we intentionally used an incredible amount different plants:
Salzman's Hediotis;
Blixa japonica;
Hemianthus micranthemoides;
Hemianthus monte carlo;
Marsilia;
Cryptocoryne parva;
Rotala indica;
Rotala Myanmar;
Bacopa carolina;
Ludwigia ovalis;
Ludwigia vulgaris, palustris;
Alternatera colorata ed;
Aponogeton viviparous;
Eleocharis vivipara;
Proserpinaka;
Hygrophila balsamica;
Pogostemon erectus;
Moss Phoenix;
Flamemoss;
Queen moss/S.P.;
Willow moss;
Java mossand others.
Such an abundance of plants justifies the use of a substrate and will allow us to show the reader that growing any, even the most whimsical plant is not so difficult task. In the future, the list and number of plants will be adjusted.
Below are the general rules for planting:
The photo shows the rules for planting aquarium plants
1. Low-growing (ground cover) plants are planted in the foreground, long-stemmed plants in the background.
2. Before planting, the plants are processed, rotten leaves are removed, the roots are trimmed, leaving 2-3 cm.
3. Ground cover plants and low growing plants They are planted in wet soil (a little water is poured in), then the aquarium is filled again, and the plants in the middle and background are planted.
4. If a large number of plants are being planted (which can take a long time), you can use a spray bottle to periodically spray the already planted plants.
5. Large plants can be planted into the hole with your hands, ground cover with tweezers.
6. Plants with red pigment are placed in the most illuminated areas.
7. Mosses are tied to stones and snags with fishing line or thread.
After planting, we applied the required amount of Tetra PlantaStart under the roots of the plants with tweezers - the tablets promote the rooting and adaptation of the newly planted plant. Please note that these tablets can be divided into quarters and applied depending on the size of the bush.
Upon completion of planting, the aquarium was completely filled with water.
Sometimes, in the first month, whitish mucus may form on a piece of driftwood that was drowned in an aquarium - this is organic matter, a phenomenon that is also not terrible, but it indicates that the piece of driftwood was not fully processed. Such mucus will disappear soon, but it can still be removed mechanically or, for example, by getting catfish that will clean off this mucus.
Also, a novice aquarist should not worry that in an aquarium filled with water it will not be possible to add plants or change their location. In the future, you will be without special labor you can make adjustments.
Additional materials for this section:
Using starting chemistry when starting an aquarium.
After the aquarium was filled with water, we introduced three basic starting preparations:
TetraAquaSafe- binds heavy metals, completely neutralizes chlorine and creates environment, as close as possible to natural conditions fish habitat. Colloidal silver solution protects the mucous membranes of fish, and magnesium and vitamin B1 reduce the stress effect.
TetraSafeStart- contains specially grown live nitrifying bacteria that reliably reduce the levels of toxic ammonia and nitrite in the aquarium.
TetraEasyBalance- stabilizes pH and carbonate hardness (KH) of water, removes phosphorus, supplements with various vitamins, microelements and minerals, reduces the number of water changes. Provides a healthy habitat for your plants and fish in a freshwater aquarium.
These preparations are extremely necessary for maintaining the aquarium, especially in the first month. Their use is actually the key to success and absence of problems after launch. All these drugs have different directions, but together they most effectively adjust the biological balance in the aquarium.
Features of keeping an aquarium with plants, nuances and tricks.
So, we launched the aquarium! With every hour, every day, the aquarium begins to “ripen” - it begins new life! Millions of microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, protozoa) begin to develop, plants begin to adapt, filtration and aeration of the aquarium are carried out, photons of light begin to nourish the plants, which in turn, during the process of photosynthesis, begin to release oxygen - you created this amazing world! And as a creator, you must understand that this world must develop, there must not be stagnation in it.
Below we will share “easy tricks” that you should learn and put into practice.
Since we have created an aquarium herbalist, we must clearly understand the components that are necessary for comfortable life aquarium garden, here they are:
PROPER LIGHTING
+
FERTILIZERS
(CO2, micro and macro fertilizers)
+
CORRECT CARE
(correctly configured filtration, aeration)
PROPER LIGHTING
The issue of lighting an aquarium with live aquarium plants is important and extensive. Lighting is key good growth plants! It is important to understand this fact.
Our articles will help you understand all the intricacies of lighting for plants:
Undoubtedly, this material For a beginner it will be difficult at first. But you just have to figure it out once and everything will fall into place.
It is worth noting that in fact, the issue with lighting is not a problem, it is only important to understand “what and how much” is needed specifically for your herbalist. And after that, you just need to purchase and install the selected option additional lighting- this could be additional fluorescent lamps connected through or it could be, it could also be an MG LED spotlight.
In this review, we took into account the conditions of keeping our plants, calculated the required number of lumens and supplemented the standard aquarium refreshment. The issue was resolved in one day!
Be sure to study this issue, the above articles will help you with this.
FERTILIZERS FOR HERBALIST
In addition to lighting, plants need a complex of fertilizers, which they consume during photosynthesis. All fertilizers for aquarium plants can be divided into MACRO fertilizers, MICRO fertilizers and separately release CO2 (carbon dioxide).
All these fertilizers are presented in.
Carbon dioxide is an important fertilizer for plants. The aquarist should first of all think about its sufficient quantity. This is due to the fact that micro and macro fertilizers, in one quantity or another, will always be present in the water even if they are not specifically added - they are in tap water, they are formed as a result of the vital activity of fish. But CO2, alas, will always be in short supply.
Enrichment of aquarium water with carbon dioxide is carried out in various ways:
MECHANICAL;
CHEMICAL;
FERMENTATION UNITS;
In this review, we used a fermentation unit and Tetra CO2 Plus in our aquarium. And the point here is this: Tetra CO2 Plus, when added to aquarium water, breaks down into O2 (oxygen) and CO2 (carbon dioxide) in a form that is digestible for plants. There are no analogues of this drug, it is not pentandial - an algaecide, more aimed at combating algae rather than feeding plants with CO2. This is not poison: an overdose, which can cause the death of aquatic organisms.
At the same time, supplying CO2 through mash does not always give the desired result - over time, the intensity carbon dioxide in the brew it fades. In order to compensate for this uneven CO2 supply, we will add Tetra CO2 Plus based on the drop checker readings.
MICRO and MACRO fertilizers for the aquarium.
When growing the herbalist in our review, the following fertilizers were used:
The PlantaPro series was developed by Tetra for professional plant care. If you are an amateur herbalist, then one Tera PlantaMin will be enough.
In the matter of micro and macro fertilizers, you should pay attention to the fact that their dosage is purely individual. The proportions for applying these fertilizers are not indicated by the manufacturer and will not be indicated by us either, because they are calculated for each herbalist aquarium individually, based on its volume and size, lighting power, number of plants and parameters of the water itself.
CORRECT CARE
Properly configured filtration in a planted aquarium
As previously mentioned, the aquarium complex includes all the necessary basic equipment. The kit also includes an internal hanging filter, which is quite sufficient for high-quality filtration of aquarium water.
However, in our opinion, external filters are best suited for maintaining a herbalist’s aquarium. Firstly, because they do not take up space in the aquarium and do not interfere with the construction of the aquarium composition. Secondly, with the help of an external filter, better filtration of the aquarium is achieved. Thirdly, filtration through external filters is quiet in every sense: the filter itself is silent and the water flow that creates the filter is “quiet” and adjustable.
In our herbalist we used an external filter Tetra EX 600 Plus - The youngest in the Tetra line of external filters. Talking about him quality characteristics, it should be said that this is a good filter, we have no complaints about it. Its equipment is standard. However, it is worth noting three points that were pleasantly pleasing:
1. Tetra EX 600 Plus is the youngest in the Tetra filter line. That is, he has minimum power and the ability to filter aquarium water over a certain period of time (liters/hour). Many manufacturers of external filters produce a series of “junior” filters with a minimum number of internal compartments, due to their compactness (1-2 compartments). In this case, the Tetra EX 600 Plus filter has three compartments, which is very convenient, as it makes it possible to use even more filter media.
2. Despite the fact that Tetra EX 600 Plus is the youngest in the series, it is capable of passing and filtering up to 630 liters per hour. Which is very respectable for similar filters (average value 400-550 l/h).
3. The flute (a nozzle for uniform distribution of water flow from the filter) is made of transparent plastic. This is very important for the herbalist’s aquarium, because... the tube does not interfere with aesthetics.
What else is good about an external filter for a herbalist? It makes it very convenient to regulate the air supply and CO2 supply. When there is no lighting in the aquarium, the filter flute rises above the water level and powerful jets of water create excellent aeration of the aquarium. When the aquarium lighting is turned on, the need for air disappears, the flute falls under the water and the flow of water begins to disperse the CO2 bubbles that rise from the diffuser and distributes them throughout the aquarium. That is, thereby improving the quality of water saturation with carbon dioxide.
If, in addition to all this, you purchase timer sockets and an additional pump for aeration, you can “automate” the aquarium - that is, you will not need to turn the lights on and off, raise and lower the flute yourself. At the appointed time, the light will turn on and off while simultaneously turning on the pump to aerate the aquarium at night.
In conclusion to the question about filtering aquarium water, it should be said that earlier, when starting the aquarium, we did not specifically use any drugs that reduce the concentration of nitrates in the aquarium (Tetra Nitrate Minus Pearls). Precisely because the Tetra EX 600 Plus has three compartments for refills. And just recently, Tetra released New Product - special filter filler that reduces NO3 concentration.
We simply added a small amount of Tetra Balance Balls into one compartment of the external filter. The issue with excessive concentration of poisons has been resolved! The advantage of using Tetra Balance Balls for an aquarium with plants is that if it is necessary to increase the amount of NO3 (as fertilizer for plants), we can simply remove a certain part of the balls.
Caring for the aquarium after launch
After the aquarium has been launched, the aquarist can exhale a little and enjoy the first results of his work. However, you shouldn’t relax, because the fun begins ahead!
The aquarium is interesting because it is not a static picture of fish in a pond. Our site always encourages people to change their attitude towards this amazing hobby and look at it in a new way. Aquarium science is amazing because it is atypical, there are no stereotypes, taboos, or clear regulations. Each individual aquarium is unique!
In aquarium farming, perhaps, there is only one rule - you need to learn to see and feel your aquarium. There is no need to perceive aquarium problems and failures as a tragedy. As Shakespeare said: “There is no good or bad, there is only what we call it”! You need to perceive everything with curiosity, study materials, study your aquarium world and, of course, first of all, treat everything with love.
Correct setting of biological balance.
We are confident that if you adhere to what is written in this article, you will succeed! Additionally, we recommend that you read the following articles that will help you understand the meaning of biobalance in an aquarium:
An aquarium with densely planted plants has its own peculiarity! The biological balance in such an aquarium is much better adjusted.
When starting the aquarium, we used starting products - Tetra AquaSafe, Tetra AquaStart, Tetra EasyBalance. The use of these drugs is the key to success and virtually eliminates all the problems associated with the formation of biological balance in the first month after starting the aquarium.
As can be seen from the tables and videos, using these preparations, we actually immediately take control of the nitrogen cycle and the breakdown of ammonia products, and also turn tap water into suitable habitat for aquarium fish.
Caring for an aquarium with plants in the first month.
By general rule, the aquarium in the first month does not require cleaning, changing water and siphoning the aquarium bottom! These rules also apply to an aquarium with plants. But it is worth noting that when keeping an aquarium with plants, you must be prepared to constantly fight algae, or rather, to suppress them. In the first month after starting the aquarium, algae can greatly bother the aquarist. This is due to the fact that the biobalance has not yet been adjusted, the planted plants have not yet become stronger, at the same time, bright and powerful lighting can cause the growth of lower flora.
If green algae appears on the walls and decorations of the aquarium, we do not recommend using any algaecides - anti-algae preparations - in the first month. It’s better to simply clean them off with a sponge, a special scraper or an unnecessary plastic card.
Using plant fertilizers in the first month.
An important component of successfully maintaining a herbalist is the correct application of fertilizers for plants in the right proportions.
In the first month of the aquarium's life, we do not recommend going overboard with fertilizers. Firstly, because when starting the aquarium, a nutrient substrate was laid, and secondly, Tetra PlantaStart and Crupto tablets were used - this will be quite enough for newly planted plants. In the future, taking into account the condition of the aquarium, apply liquid and/or tablet fertilizers, starting with small doses. Watch how the aquarium behaves and then adjust the dosage.
Always remember that plant competitors - algae - can always take advantage of an excess of fertilizers! It is for this reason that in aquariums with lush plants (scapes) frequent and high-quality changes of aquarium water are performed (from ¼ to ½ of the volume per week). By changing the water, we remove excess accumulated fertilizers and level out their accumulation.
Lighting for the aquarium in the first month is based on daylight hours.
Aquarium lighting is important tool to regulate plant growth and biobalance in general. Excessive lighting leads to the growth of algae, while lack of lighting leads to poor plant health.
After starting the aquarium, we strongly do not recommend immediately applying the generally accepted daylight hours of 10-14 hours a day!!! In the first month, the lighting of the aquarium should be dosed and increase gradually. Let's say in the first week 5 hours, in the second 6 hours, in the third 8 hours and so on until the norm - balance.
Temperature conditions for the aquarium.
You must always remember that aquarium plants, like fish, need a stable temperature. Do not allow sudden changes in temperature.
It should also be taken into account that most aquarium plants do not like high temperature. The general norm is 24-25 degrees.
OUR FIRST MONTH REPORT
A month has passed since the launch of our aquarium. During this time, we made one full change of aquarium water in 1/3 of the volume, since there was a small outbreak of algae, expressed in the formation of green spots on the front wall of the aquarium. The sponge was used for two light cleanings of the aquarium walls. From the second week we started using Tetra Pro series liquid fertilizers in minimal quantities of 1 ml. three times a week. After a week, the dosage was slightly increased. Fourth week fertilizer dosage ~ 1.5-2.0 ml. Pro every other day + 1\2 doses of Tetra PlantaMin + CO2 Plus.
Plant growth. Naturally, the first to “come to terms” after landing were unpretentious plants. By the second week, obvious growth was noticeable: Ludwigia vulgare, Ludwigia ovalis, Aponogeton, Hygrophila balsamica, Proserpinac. By the fourth week we had to thin out: ludwigia, apnogeton. First harvest;)
More whimsical plants have also become accustomed, but naturally, due to their natural qualities, rapid growth do not give. Pleases Blixa Japonica - one of the “ harmful plants" Alternatera colorata red is beet-colored and noticeably stretched out.
The mosses are very pleasing; within a month they have shaken off all the dust that formed when starting up the aquarium and fluffed up.
At the moment, the daylight hours are 9 hours, the lighting is powerful, with a reserve, so we additionally placed a little specialized peat in the TetraEX 600 Plus filter compartment, which gave natural shading of the aquarium, a slight decrease in pH and kH.
Finally, we would like to share one thing with you in an interesting way removing nitrites and nitrates from the aquarium - using. Many aquarists create a phytofilter over the aquarium, where they pour expanded clay and plant houseplants. We offer you a “light version” of phytofiltration. The fact is that the aquarium lid, which is included in the complex Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L- very convenient and has three “windows”.
So, if you are not eager to build the Gardens of Babylon, tinker with lighting, or just want a cichlid! Then you can buy “bamboo”, sold in any large flower shop. In fact, this is not bamboo, but Dracaena Sander - a plant that grows naturally, developing in water. Three or four branches of dracaena placed in an aquarium will draw out poisons: nitrites and nitarts, and look great above it.
Dracaena over the aquarium
Video of our aquarium
Conclusion
We hope that this material was useful for you! As you can see, maintaining an aquarium with plants has its own specifics; the key to the success of maintaining such an aquarium is perseverance, patience, prudence and a burning desire to achieve your goals.
