How to make floors in an extension. How to insulate the floor on the veranda. Insulation of concrete floor

To protect against dampness extension flooring it is necessary to arrange reliable waterproofing of floors, which protects the overlying layers from penetration groundwater. Preparation is carried out depending on the type of soil, if necessary, excavating it to the required depth. For example, wet soils have a soft base, so concrete preparation with a soft base is arranged on a bedding layer of sand with a thickness of 200–300 mm and crushed stone with a thickness of at least 40 mm. For device floors in the extension in residential buildings, crushed stone is pressed into the ground with a tamper or roller until a roller weighing approximately 70 kg leaves traces of passage on the ground. It is a good idea to saturate the crushed stone bed with a uniform, continuous layer of hot bitumen primer about 6mm thick, on top of which you can lay a carpet of roll or film waterproofing materials.
Using compacted crushed stone preparation, an underlying layer of M-300 concrete is made. And in this case, it is advisable to introduce special hydrophobic additives into the concrete to ensure increased water resistance of the floors. The thickness of the concrete layer is taken depending on the planned loads on the floors. If in the annex to residential building no production equipment will be installed; floors can be approximately 100mm thick. Laying concrete mixture must be carried out continuously: the break between the completion of compaction of one layer and the laying of the next layer should not exceed 1 hour. Special attention should be given to compacting the concrete at the junction of the bottoms and walls, as well as at the fittings and embedded parts available, if necessary. By concrete preparation penetrating waterproofing can be done.
Then the floors are covered with heated bitumen with a layer thickness of at least 2 mm. After this, a coating of waterproofing or other similar material is spread in strips over the unhardened primer layer, connecting the strips with an overlap of 100÷200 mm and coating the seam with bitumen. If the groundwater level is high, then it is advisable to then apply a second layer of bitumen mastic with a thickness of at least 5 mm to the floor, leveling it using a rack.
A thermal insulation layer is placed on top of the hardened bitumen waterproofing, without violating its integrity. The materials specified in the question can also be used as insulation, the layer thickness of which depends on the required conditions.
On top of the heat-insulating layer, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing carpet on the walls at the factory and make a protective reinforced cement-sand floor screed with a thickness of at least 50 mm. In this case, the reinforcement must have a protective concrete layer of at least 30 mm. Without allowing complete drying cement-sand screed, it is necessary to “ironize” it - grouting the top layer of the floor with dry cement.
Unfortunately, the message does not indicate which flooring planned for the future - you are not going to walk barefoot on concrete floors. Therefore, if you are going to lay laminate, parquet or some other material, then to prevent moisture from the concrete base from penetrating into the floor covering, you must first lay film waterproofing.
Foundation for non-load bearing internal partitions in a residential building, it can be made as a shallow-depth strip type, which is a concrete or reinforced concrete strip. The tape is placed under interior walls building, maintaining the same shape cross section along the entire perimeter of the foundation. To connect it to the foundation under the outer walls, you can use reinforcement pins, which are placed in holes drilled in the “old” foundation.
To construct the foundation, dig a trench 500÷700mm deep, at the bottom of which a sand backfill 200÷300mm thick is made, and on top of it a crushed stone layer 150÷200mm thick. The sand must be thoroughly compacted after wetting it. Having installed the formwork, pour concrete into the foundation strip, which should be 200÷300mm above the ground level. To increase the strength characteristics, steel reinforcement can be placed in the foundation body.
The width of such a foundation depends on the thickness of the partitions, as well as whether the floor beams will rest on it.

In order to insulate an extension to your house, you will need a good thermal insulation material. Optimal solution for internal and external insulation – mineral wool slabs. They are excellent for insulating walls and floorboards, have good thermal conductivity, are moisture resistant, durable and inexpensive. For interior work you need insulation with a thickness of 50-70 mm.

List of required materials:

Waterproofing film to protect insulation from moisture.
Fasteners and metal profiles for frame construction and plasterboard cladding.
Wooden slats with a section of 5 x 2 cm.
Plasterboard sheets for final wall cladding with a thickness of 9.5 to 12 mm.
Putty for processing seams between plasterboard sheets.

Warming stages:

Creation of lathing for attaching thermal insulation. On the surfaces to be insulated, we fill prepared slats or boards with a distance slightly less than the width of the insulating panels.
Installation of insulation. Place between the bars mineral wool. So are the walls.
Waterproofing. We cover the entire insulated surface with a vapor barrier membrane, overlapping the edges. We fix the film with staples on the sheathing bars.
Frame for plasterboard sheets. We fasten vertical and horizontal metal profiles, creating a frame for the final cladding.
GKL covering. We install drywall on the walls and ceiling.

Note. In principle, instead of plasterboard, you can use other material for sheathing. It can be wooden lining, plywood, OSB or gypsum fiber board. Choose what suits you best in terms of external and internal characteristics.
Processing of joints. Using putty, we cover the joints between the plates and clean them.
Cosmetic finishing. The finished surface can be painted, covered with wallpaper, tiled or any other finishing materials.

Features of insulating walls made of certain materials

Walls made of foam concrete blocks are warm due to the huge number of air bubbles contained in the foam concrete, but additional insulation work cannot be done, otherwise heating costs will be too high. Insulating the outside is much more expensive because it requires cladding. Proper insulation walls from the inside suggests good vapor barrier and ventilation of the insulating layer on both sides.

It is recommended to avoid highly absorbent, fibrous, moisture-permeable insulation materials. These measures are necessary to reduce humidity in the extension and prevent freezing of the walls. When installing insulation, it should be taken into account that cold penetrates into the room through the joints.

Mineral wool is not suitable for foam concrete blocks; expanded polystyrene sheets require additional joining. The best insulation such walls - spraying polyurethane foam. It prevents the formation of condensation. To form the required thickness of the insulating layer, you should use wooden sheathing. Metallic profile creates cold bridges. A waterproofing layer is secured on top of the foam with slats, and then drywall is attached. The dew point is located at the point of contact between the polyurethane foam and the foam block extension or inside the polyurethane.

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

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A brick extension is insulated in the same way, but the insulation layer for brick walls is larger.

The disadvantages of spraying polyurethane are the high price and the need to attract special equipment and trained specialists.

Insulating the walls of a frame extension from the outside

We do external insulation of an extension to a frame house according to the same principle as internal insulation. First, a vertical frame made of wooden beams. The distance between the boards should be about 50 cm, slightly less than the width of the insulation. Mineral wool blocks are tightly inserted between the beams, which are covered with a layer of waterproofing. The film is strengthened with staples around the perimeter of the frame. At the final finishing stage the surface is covered with siding.

Outside or inside, which is more effective?

Advantages of internal insulation

insulate the ceiling, floor, walls in one step;
work can be performed in any weather conditions;
simplicity - insulated surfaces are available throughout the entire height.

Disadvantages of internal insulation

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

Construction of houses, extensions, terraces and verandas.

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The freezing point during internal insulation shifts into the wall, which contributes to its faster destruction. In addition, if the extension room already has finishing, decorative coating will have to be dismantled.

Advantages of external insulation

displacement of the freezing point in the insulation, due to which the rate of destruction of walls decreases;
internal living space extension is preserved;
no waste from construction work indoors;
the possibility of using the extension during work, the way of life is preserved;
additional protection of wooden walls from getting wet.

Disadvantage of external insulation

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

Construction of houses, extensions, terraces and verandas.

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You will not be able to observe the condition of the walls, since they will be hidden behind decorative cladding.

Insulation of concrete floor

List of materials you will need:

insulation – mineral wool boards;
vapor barrier;
scotch;
damper tape;
reinforcing mesh;
screed solution.

Stages of insulation

A layer of vapor barrier film is applied to the concrete base. The insulation joints must be carefully taped to ensure the overall tightness of the layer.
On top waterproofing material Insulation boards are laid. It is important that the blocks fit tightly to each other, there are no gaps or cracks left.
The entire perimeter of the room is taped damper tape. This is necessary to compensate in case of expansion of the screed.
Another layer of vapor barrier and then a reinforcing mesh is applied on top of the mineral wool insulation.
The screed is poured. Its thickness should be at least 3 cm.
After the surface has completely dried, any topcoat is applied.

Floor insulation on beams

List of materials - what you will need:

wooden boards, logs;
insulation;
vapor barrier coating;
clay mortar;
plywood.

Stages of work

Attach smaller transverse joists to the floor beams. Lay the boards on the joists with rough, continuous flooring to prevent heat from escaping. Coat the coating with a thick clay solution, wait until it dries and apply a layer of vapor barrier on top. Place insulation boards between the joists and cover it with another layer of vapor barrier. Cover the surface with boards or plywood on top. Lay a decorative coating to your liking on the resulting wooden floor.

Roof insulation

To properly insulate the roof of an extension to a house, you should follow next principle: all layers of the insulation cake must provide moisture insulation with outside and vapor permeability from the inside. For thermal insulation of roofs, polystyrene foam, penoplex, and polyurethane foam are used, but mineral wool and other fiber insulation in combination with membrane films for removing water vapor are best suited.

Types of insulation - features, characteristics

Mineral wool. It has low thermal conductivity, is fireproof, durable, flexible, temperature resistant and chemical substances. In addition, mineral wool insulation provides good sound insulation. Cons: a frame is required for installation, after some time of operation it becomes compacted and loses its thermal insulation properties.
Polyurethane foam is produced in three types: flexible, dense, sprayed. PPU is easy to install, has a light weight, resistant to biological and chemical environments. Minuses - expensive price, quickly ages from ultraviolet radiation, deforms from mechanical stress, has a low vapor permeability, which is why it accumulates moisture, which has a detrimental effect on the walls of the house.
Penofol is environmentally friendly, flexible, and easy to install. The material has low vapor permeability and high combustion resistance. Cons: thin, overly soft. Expanded polystyrene has low weight, sufficient rigidity, and is easy to install and cut. This is a very durable, wear-resistant material. Cons – can’t stand it high temperatures from 100 degrees, has low soundproofing qualities.
Basalt wool is a fibrous material, due to its properties and operational characteristics identical to mineral wool. Disadvantages - during operation it becomes compacted, which increases thermal conductivity.
Foam plastic is light and hard, does not lose its performance properties even after prolonged use, can be mounted either frameless or frame method. Insulation with low vapor permeability and hygroscopicity. Cons: flammable, loved by rodents.

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When insulating an extension with your own hands, it is always better to start with the walls. How to insulate an extension, whether it will be external or internal insulation, depends on the size, characteristics of the room and the personal tastes and preferences of the homeowners. The insulation process itself does not take much time, and the cost of materials for such work will not hit the budget.

Country houses are in fashion today. Some are the happy owners of a summer house, and many even prefer to live away from the bustle of the city. Of course, everyone strives to make their homes more comfortable and beautiful, so they decorate them with verandas and terraces. These extensions need to be distinguished. Without going into details, a terrace is an open area without walls, and a veranda is part of the house, but, as a rule, without heating.

In summer, such premises are good for various gatherings, but with the onset of the cold season they cease to be used. However, you don’t have to deny yourself and your loved ones the usual pastime. Insulating the veranda will help maintain its comfort at any time of the year. Of course, it is best to think about this at the construction stage, but even in a finished house purchased or in a veranda added later, you can correct the situation.

So, there is no point in insulating the terrace, but you can take care of comfort on the veranda. As a rule, insulation is a set of measures aimed at improving the heat-saving properties of walls, windows, ceilings, but you need to start from the floor, because the cold rises from below.

The procedure will depend on how the floor is made, which can be concrete, laid on a solid foundation, or wooden on supports.

Insulation from below

Insulation of floors on a concrete base

When making a concrete foundation for a future veranda, you need to start work with backfilling of sand and gravel cushion. River sand (or other sand, the main thing is that it is not fine and without clay impurities) is poured into the foundation pit and compacted. Then comes a layer of crushed stone or gravel, which also needs to be compacted.
Such a pillow will not allow the cold coming from below to concrete slab, and will protect it from capillary moisture, which can rise through channels less than 0.5 mm wide. The thickness of the layers of sand and stone depends on the type of soil and the structures being built.
On top of stone for greater reliability lay the reinforcing mesh from rods with a cross section of 10-12 mm and The foundation is filled with a solution based on frost-resistant concrete.
The concrete is covered with a layer of waterproofing: roofing felt or similar material, and placed on top insulation layer. For example, you can take mineral wool slabs.
The insulation, in turn, is also covered a layer of waterproofing film, and on top of this whole “pie” reinforced concrete slabs are laid or a reinforced screed is made.

Such a foundation will be a good barrier to the cold rising from the ground, and will also protect the veranda from dampness. In addition, the concrete floor allows you to accept additional measures on insulation.

Floor insulation on supports or piles

With this type of foundation, the floor is usually made of wood. Air circulates underneath it, so it will be very cold on the veranda in winter.

Insulation begins with measures to block access to cold air under the veranda. To do this, you need to build formwork along the perimeter of the floor, marked by the supports.
The second step is filling the resulting underground with expanded clay. On top of it you can lay a film for vapor barrier and additionally lay insulation. Of course, before such actions you will need to remove the existing floor.

Base insulation

External insulation of the foundation is another way to save the warmth of the veranda. In addition, the soil, expanding or decreasing in volume under the influence of air temperature, can deform the foundation. This problem can be solved quite simply by covering the entire perimeter of the base with insulation. Usually these are polystyrene foam boards, which will serve as a barrier to the cold and also prevent contact with the ground.

A less expensive, but more reliable option would be to use extruded polystyrene foam, which has the necessary strength, is not afraid of moisture and cold, and its service life is more than 50 years. Before gluing the insulation boards, the foundation is coated with bitumen or bitumen-polymer mastic, which is not afraid of low temperatures.

There is another option to insulate the base, the newest, expensive, but also reliable. This is sprayed polyurethane foam. The liquid base is sprayed onto the walls using special equipment, and after drying the foam becomes solid, monolithic, without a single seam.

Insulation from above

Such methods are good when you can’t get to the foundation, but you still want to make the floor warm. However, even with an insulated foundation, thermal insulation measures will also not be superfluous. main feature all work with a finished floor - raising its level, which occurs due to the laying of various heat-insulating materials.

Insulation of concrete floor

Warm floor system

Since the veranda is not heated, this solution will be ideal for maintaining comfortable temperature in room. Moreover, it is recommended electrical system, and not water, since the cable is not afraid of frost, which cannot be said about pipes with water.

Quite labor intensive, but reliable option, which requires the use of durable insulating material in the form of slabs or mats. This can be expanded polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool.

Wood floors can be very beautiful, and country houses It is often customary to decorate with just such coatings. Wooden floors can be laid on any base, while taking care of insulation.

One of the insulation options is sprayed materials. This is quite expensive and requires that the work be carried out by specialists using special equipment. The use of such insulation will require cleaning the floor from debris, bitumen drips, greasy stains and solvents. Lay between joists cross beams not necessary - future spraying will form a fairly dense heat-insulating layer. Foam is applied special device which mixes special liquid composition With carbon dioxide and sprays under pressure.

The sheathing filled with insulation must be covered with another layer of film or penofol, a relatively new material, which is foamed polyethylene on an aluminized backing. It is laid with the backing up and pressed down a little into the cells to leave space for floor ventilation.
Now you can lay boards treated with antiseptic on top, attaching them with self-tapping screws. The boards are positioned perpendicular to the joists, but instead of them, if desired, plywood or gypsum fiber board sheets are laid, and only then the finishing coating.

Insulation of a wooden floor

There is an opinion that it is easier to insulate a wooden floor than a concrete one, but this is not entirely true. Of course, you won’t have to do the screed, but you still need to work hard.

Infrared heated floor

This is an alternative to electrical cables, which are laid in a screed layer and are therefore not suitable for wooden floors. The only requirement that must be met for installing such a system is that the floor materials are non-toxic when heated, but otherwise this is a good option for maintaining heat on the veranda.

This method is the main one for insulating wooden floors. In terms of the sequence of actions, it is similar to that previously described, only the base is prepared differently.

In addition to all the previously described methods, you can use flooring special types linoleum or laminate, which can retain heat, as well as carpet.

Insulating the floor on the veranda is a task that is best done during the construction of this extension, but if you really want to, you can start work at any time. It cannot be said that the set of actions is extremely simple and accessible to anyone. Just the ability to hold a hammer in your hands will not be enough to get the job done, but those who are confident in their abilities and have, albeit small, but still construction experience, can easily do everything on their own.

The main thing is to choose the most suitable materials in terms of price and quality, because the success of any repair consists of two components: the skill of the workers and the quality of the means and tools used.

Over time, some private buildings require expansion for various reasons. For example, an increase in the number of occupants, installation of a sewer system in the house, or the need to close front door from direct exposure to cold. Therefore, there is a need for extra room, expanding the kitchen, installing a room for a bathroom, or simply building a veranda.

DIY house extension

A do-it-yourself extension to the house can be made of wood, brick or combined version, which includes several building materials.

Premises requirements

To avoid having to make additional changes to the attached room, it is better to immediately think through all the nuances of the extension, since each of them requires a special approach.

If you need to add another living room to the house, you will have to try, since this work is almost equivalent to building small house. The floors, walls and ceiling of the building must be well insulated, otherwise the heating installed in it will not be effective - this is one of the main conditions for a living space. Second important condition for normal living is the absence of dampness in the room, which means. Reliable waterproofing is needed.

When constructing these premises, before installing the foundation, they bring engineering Communication- in particular - sewer pipes. You may have to install the water supply separately.

In addition, it is also worth paying attention to the insulation of all elements of the structure, and think about reliable waterproofing of the floor.

A veranda is a light structure that mainly serves to protect the main entrance to the house from wind and rain or is used for summer holiday. It can be closed, have a door and one or more windows. or it can be completely open, that is, it consists of a flooring, low walls and a roof raised on pillars.

This structure does not require special insulation, but waterproofing for the foundation will still have to be done.

Construction of the foundation for the extension

The foundation for the extension can be strip, made of brick or stone blocks, or columnar. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To settle on one of them, you need to find out how each structure works and choose the one that is more suitable for a particular extension.

Information about building the foundation

Strip foundation

So, strip foundation arranged in the following sequence:

First you need to mark and trace the place where the extension will be installed. This is done using a rope. which is stretched on the ground and secured with pegs.

Trench for strip foundation

Next, following the markings, a trench is dug to the same depth as the foundation of the entire house. Before pouring concrete, it would be a good idea to secure the reinforcement that connects the foundations of the main building and the extension.
The width of the trench should be 100 - 150 mm greater than the planned wall thickness.
After the trench has been dug, further preparation begins. First, the bottom is filled with a sand cushion 100 - 120 mm thick. It must be compacted thoroughly.
The next layer is filled with crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted with a hand tamper.
Next, waterproofing is laid in a trench along the entire perimeter, which should extend to the ground surface by 40 - 50 cm, since it should cover not only inner part foundation, but also formwork for its above-ground part.
A welded reinforcement structure is installed on the waterproofing film, which should follow the shape of the foundation, and over its entire height.
Then the reinforcement is filled with rough concrete mortar made of cement and gravel, to ⅓ of the height of the trench, and after this layer hardens, the next one is poured to one-half of the remaining height.

Installation of formwork for strip foundations

After pouring this layer, you can start installing wooden formwork to form the above-ground part of the foundation - the plinth. The waterproofing film is left inside the formwork, spread along its walls and secured on top of them so that it does not slide into the concrete.
Concrete is poured into the prepared formwork to the top. Then the solution is pierced in several places with a shovel so that there are no air cavities left inside it. You can lightly tap the formwork - such vibration will help the concrete to compact as much as possible.

The process of pouring a strip foundation

Having completed pouring the foundation, the concrete is leveled to the required level and left to dry, sprinkled with water daily to strengthen it.
After the concrete has completely hardened, the formwork is removed and the foundation is waterproofed from the outside.
Before starting the construction of walls, it is recommended to additionally cover the foundation waterproofing compounds or roll materials. For this process, liquid rubber, tar, bitumen mastic and roofing felt.

Strip foundation requires waterproofing

The space inside the strip foundation can also be equipped in different ways - concrete screed or a flooring of floor beams and joists with a wooden floor installed on them.

- construction of an extension to the house on a strip foundation

Columnar foundation

In addition to a strip foundation, a columnar foundation can be constructed, which is built from brick or concrete, or a combination of these materials. This option is mainly used for the construction of verandas or additional living rooms, since communications associated with water supply or drainage in an uninsulated or even open underground will require additional thermal insulation.

The extension will be built on columnar foundation

A columnar foundation is most often installed if it is planned to install a boardwalk.

The work is carried out in several stages:

The first step is marking the area chosen for the extension. The pillars should be one and a half meters apart from each other.

Approximate diagram of a columnar foundation

Excavations are dug for each pillar separately. Their depth should be 500 - 600 mm, with a square side of 500 × 500 mm. Towards the top, the pits should widen slightly - about 100 mm on each side.

Foundation pillar installation diagram

Next, the bottom is strengthened in the same way as when installing a strip foundation, using sand and crushed stone. lay waterproofing.
If the support pillars will be built from brick, it is recommended to lay a layer of coarse cement mortar on the bottom. Only after waiting for it to harden, do brickwork.
If the pillars are concrete, a reinforcement structure and formwork are installed at the bottom of the pits to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is placed inside the formwork and secured on top of it;
Concrete is poured into the formwork in layers. Each layer must set well before the next one is poured;
The top of the column is well leveled and sprinkled with water daily until it hardens completely;
After the pillars are ready, the formwork is removed from them and they are waterproofed with roofing felt, which is glued to heated bitumen mastic.
The gap remaining between the soil and the pillars is backfilled, compacting every 100 - 150 mm of backfilled soil mixed with crushed stone.
Several layers of roofing material are laid on each of the pillars - it is necessary for waterproofing the wooden blocks that will be laid on top of the pillars.

Installation of the base floor of the extension

If a strip foundation is chosen, both wooden and concrete floors can be installed on it. A columnar foundation without lintels requires the installation of a wooden floor.

Concrete floor

To make a reliable and warm screed floor inside a strip foundation, work must be carried out in stages, adhering to a certain technology.

To begin with, inside the finished strip foundation is selected excess soil. It is first loosened and then removed to a depth of approximately 250 - 350 mm.
A ten-centimeter sand cushion is poured and compacted onto the bottom of the resulting pit. Crushed stone can be laid on top of it, but to insulate the screed, instead of crushed stone, expanded clay is used, poured in a layer of 15 - 20 cm.

Preparing to pour a concrete floor

Expanded clay is leveled, and a reinforcing grid is laid on it. After its installation, a system of beacons is installed on top at the selected horizontal level. Some rooms, such as a bathroom or open terrace, may also require a certain slope of the surface for the unhindered flow of water falling on the floor to the drainage system.
Next, lay out on the prepared surface cement mortar and is leveled using the rule. After a day it can be covered plastic film- then the concrete will mature more evenly, which will give it additional strength.

When the walls of the extension are erected, any decorative covering or wooden floor can be laid on the resulting concrete base.

Floor on wooden beams

Floor beams are wooden blocks quite thick, about 150 × 100 mm in cross section. You cannot skimp on them, since the overall strength of the floor will depend on their reliability.

Load-bearing floor beams on a columnar foundation

The beams are laid on pillars or a strip foundation, on top of a made roofing felt substrate, and can be fixed to concrete different ways- using through fasteners, corners and other metal devices. The beams at the intersection points are also fastened together using strong corners.

The beams are laid on a roofing felt substrate

They will hold securely. because wood flooring The “black” and “white” floor also serves as a kind of binding fastening.

: construction of a frame extension with a wooden floor

Construction of extension walls

Brick or frame walls, columnar is mainly used for frame buildings. If you plan to make brickwork on the pillars, then you will have to make additional concrete lintels between the pillars.

Frame walls

The frame for future walls is erected from timber and secured to the previously installed crown beams. The beams can be attached to the beams separately, but sometimes it is much more convenient to assemble the wall elements in a horizontal position, on a flat area, and then install them in a vertical position already assembled.

One of the options frame extension

To connect the frame to the wall of the house, a perfectly accurate vertical marking is made on it, along which a separate block or assembled frame element will be fixed.

Compound wooden parts frame

For reliability, all bars are connected to each other with metal corners.

Installation of wall frame

Having installed the entire frame of the extension, it is better to immediately sheathe it with boards or plywood (OSB) from the outside. Sheathing will immediately make the structure more rigid.

It is better to immediately sheathe the outside of the frame with boards or plywood

The upper horizontal beam running along the house is attached to the main wall using reliable metal corners or anchors.
The walls are insulated after the roof is installed.

: another example of building a light extension to a house

Brick walls

How to make brick walls for an extension?

Brick extension

Before you start building brick walls, you need to carefully check the horizontalness of the foundation surface and, if necessary, level it to perfection. If the base is uneven, the masonry may crack due to deformation during shrinkage.
It should be noted that brick extensions are best made to also brick house. To connect the extension to the main wall, during the construction of the walls, holes are drilled in it to two-thirds of the depth, every two or three rows of masonry. Reinforcement is embedded in them, which should protrude from the wall by about half a meter. It should be in the seams of the future masonry. To ensure that the seams in these rows are not excessively wide, the reinforcement must be chosen not too thick, or you will have to make a recess in the bricks of the row on which the reinforcement will be laid.
If brick extension gets a job wooden wall, then a hole is drilled through it, into which reinforcement with a transverse stopper is installed from inside the house, which will hold it in the wall. The reinforcement is also installed as the wall is erected, every two or three rows.

Brick wall laying

Before starting laying, string is stretched along the future wall. by which it will be easy to control the horizontality of the rows, and the verticality is constantly verified using a plumb line.
The thickness of the walls will depend on what function the extension will perform. If this happens living room, then you should lay at least one or two bricks. If the room will serve as a veranda or utility room, then half a brick will be sufficient.
Having built brick walls, they are tied along the entire top with a concrete belt. Formwork is made for it, a reinforcement structure is laid in it and poured with concrete mortar. After the solution has completely hardened, the formwork is removed from the belt, and you can begin installing the ceiling.

It should be noted that building brick walls is not as easy as it seems, therefore, if you have no experience in this work, it is better to entrust this process to a qualified mason or choose another type of wall.

Extension ceiling and roofing

After erecting the walls, it is necessary to do ceiling. It will require beams. which are installed on the top of the walls, at a distance of 60 - 70 cm from each other, and secured with special corners.

If the beams are laid on brick building, they can be embedded in a concrete belt, having previously wrapped the edge of each of them with roofing material.

Ceiling beams

The next step is to line the beams with boards or thick plywood, on which insulation will be laid on top, between the beams.

Construction information gable roof do it yourself for an extension - link.

The roof of the extension may have different designs, but basically the single-slope option is chosen, which is worth considering.

Approximate diagram of the roof of the extension

This structure consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. Installing this type of roof is quite simple. the main thing is to choose correct angle slope It should be no less than 25 - 30 degrees - this is necessary so that precipitation in winter time do not linger on the surface, otherwise they may simply damage it.
Having determined the slope angle, a mark is made on the wall or façade of the roof in the form of a horizontal, even line along which the block supporting the rafters in the upper part will be attached. The lower support for them will be the previously laid floor beams or the edge of the wall. The rafters should extend beyond the boundaries of the constructed walls by 250 - 300 mm, in order to protect the walls as much as possible from rainwater.
The rafters are also secured using metal corners.
It will be more difficult to resolve the issue of roof slope if the extension is installed on the side on which the slope of the main building of the house is located, since there will simply be nothing to secure the transverse beam there. That's why. You may have to remove several bottom rows (sheets) roofing material from the roof of the house to use its beams for securing rafter system and consolidation of common coverage.
You need to decide in advance what kind of roofing will be laid on top of the rafter system. If this happens soft roof or flexible tiles, then a solid material, for example, plywood or frequent transverse lathing, is laid on top of the rafters and secured.
If large sheets will be fixed (roofing iron, metal tiles, slate, etc.), then they can be overlapped with directly installed rafters.
When the system under the covering material is ready, it is recommended to lay waterproofing on it. In the first case, plywood is covered with it, in the second, it is fixed to the rafters.
The roofing material is laid on top of the waterproofing material. starting from the bottom of the rafter system and going up. If it is necessary to combine the roof, then when joining, the top row of the extension roof is slipped under the last row of the roof slope of the main building.
If the roof adjoins the upper part of the roof to a wall or the front part of the roof, then the joint between them must be waterproofed.
When the roof over the erected extension is ready, you can begin to insulate the walls and floor.

Insulating the extension from the inside

If the room is residential, then reliable thermal insulation is indispensable. If the ceiling is already sheathed and insulated. then you can move on to insulating the floor.

Floor insulation on beams

How to insulate the floor of an extension built on beams?

If floor beams were installed on a columnar foundation for the floor, then the work proceeds as follows:

Transverse logs made of smaller bars are attached to the floor beams.
It is recommended to install a subfloor on the joists; in this case, it is better to lay the boards for it as a continuous flooring, otherwise the heat will be blown out of the house.

Subfloor before insulation

Next, the entire rough coating is coated with a fairly thick clay solution, and after drying, a vapor barrier film is laid on it.
Mineral wool is placed tightly between the joists and expanded clay or slag is poured.

Laying insulation between floor joists

On top, the insulation is again covered with a vapor barrier, and a wooden floor made of boards or plywood is laid on it.
A decorative coating can be immediately laid on the plywood, or an infrared film floor can be installed underneath it.

Concrete floor

A concrete floor can be insulated as follows:

Mineral wool laid between joists fixed to a concrete base and then covered with boards or plywood.
One of the “warm floor” systems (electric or water), which fits into the final leveling screed;
Infrared film. laid on a thin thermally reflective substrate and covered with a decorative coating;
Dry screed and gypsum fiber boards.

When the floors are insulated, you can move on to thermal insulation of the walls.

After the floor is ready, a floor screed will be required. We recommend that you read the information on dry floor screed.

Frame walls

For internal insulation The walls use mineral wool produced in mats. They are conveniently laid between the frame bars. This work is simple and can be done fairly quickly.
When the walls are covered with insulation, it is tightened vapor barrier film. securing it to the bars with staples.
Then the wall can be covered with natural wooden clapboard, OSB boards or plywood, plasterboard or gypsum plasterboard - there are a lot of options, there is plenty to choose from.

Insulation of frame walls

Expanded polystyrene can also be used as wall insulation, but its environmental and performance qualities are much worse than those of high-quality mineral wool.

Brick walls

Brick walls are usually finished on the inside with plaster or plasterboard, and insulation is carried out on the outside, but it is also done differently.

Insulation, if space allows, can be carried out in the same way as in frame building, fixing the bars on the walls and laying mineral wool between them, and then covering the structure with plasterboard slabs. Wallpaper or any other decorative material can be glued to this coating.

How to insulate brick walls?

In addition, familiarize yourself with the material - sawdust as insulation.

To do everything right, you need to study in detail each stage of the construction of the extension and adhere to the developed technologies. If there is no confidence in your capabilities, there is a clear lack of skills and experience in construction, it is better to entrust this sufficient difficult work qualified craftsmen.

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Hello, I have the following problem, I am faced with the choice of how best to make it: the base is 70 cm from the ground, an extension of 3 rooms (kitchen, corridor, bathroom) to the main house is made of expanded clay concrete, I am planning logs in the corridor and kitchen using 50x150 boards, but in I can’t decide in the bathroom. Either the same logs or pour concrete at such a height? Make panels or slabs directly, buy and lay them. Tell me, please, if I lay the same logs, I plan to lay tiles in the future, will they not tear them?

Answer to the question

Your problem in the bathroom can be solved in two ways:

In the bathroom, put the same logs as in the rest of the rooms, make a subfloor, put insulation, waterproof, put a finished floor from the floor, parquet board, at worst - from laminate. And it is not at all necessary to make a concrete floor and lay tiles. Why bring solutions suitable for multi-storey buildings into your home? Get warm wood floors. If the wood is well protected, first with an antiseptic, then with varnish or paint, then such floors will last for many years.
If you are making a concrete floor, then lay wooden joists not worth it. It is easier to make an insulated concrete floor. A height of 70 cm is too much to fill completely with concrete, so first fill the foundation with the earth that was left over when constructing the pit. Then make a sand cushion, pour it, compact it. Place waterproofing on top, for example, roofing felt in two layers, lay insulation, for example, polystyrene foam 10 cm thick, waterproof again and pour a concrete pad with reinforcement at least 10 cm thick. And then lay the floor on top of this cake floor tiles or porcelain stoneware.

I would not recommend using concrete floors in the room and kitchen. From my point of view, wooden floors are preferable in your home. And they retain heat well and it’s pleasant to walk on your feet. And it’s very beautiful if you keep the wood grain pattern. In multi-storey buildings, floor slabs are made of reinforced concrete slabs, therefore it is more technologically advanced to lay tiles on them. If you decide to create concrete floors, you can also create warm water or electric floors, which is very fashionable now. An electric floor is easier to install than a water heated floor. Especially if you mount it from electrical mats, as shown in the second picture. But water heated floors are more economical. But in any case, concrete floors must be well insulated from the cold ground so as not to heat the surrounding area. The choice, as always, is yours.