How to make tiles at home. Making paving slabs with your own hands: analysis of the process from mixing to drying. Material for making paving slabs with your own hands

Nowadays it has become very fashionable to lay out paths and recreation areas with paving slabs, however, not everyone is able to purchase ready material due to its high cost. It is quite possible to make this finishing material on one's own. In addition, it is possible to make tiles in accordance with your personal requests and needs.

Making paving slabs with your own hands has many advantages, since the finished product: has original design, can be of absolutely any color, quite durable and hardy. The production of sidewalk tiles is considered a rather complex and labor-intensive process, especially considering the lack of experience in its production. In addition to preparing forms and tools, it is important to correctly calculate the proportions of the solution for pouring.

There are only two types of manufacturing of these products, namely, by vibration pressing and vibration casting.

The production of tiles using the vibration pressing method involves the use of thick cement mixture with the addition of a small amount of water. Making tiles by vibrocompression involves preparing the mixture in a vibropress. For homemade For tiles, the vibration casting method is most suitable. To produce tiles using this method, you will need a concrete mixer, a vibrating table and casting molds.

Paving slabs are considered simply ideal option for arranging a summer house and country house. Its affordable cost and ease of installation make this material ideal for creating beautiful and comfortable walking paths. This coating has long been considered one of the most beautiful and durable. However, due to the high cost finished tiles not many people decide to buy it. To improve your summer cottage or country house, you can make tiles yourself. To make tiles yourself, you first need to prepare the mixture, observing all the required proportions. The recipe for the mixture is quite simple, however, you definitely need to know what components to add and what the proportions should be.

To make the mixture you need to take:

  • Binding components;
  • Water;
  • Fillers;
  • Special additives;
  • Dye.

Cement is used as binding components. The grade of cement is selected depending on the degree of compressive strength of the component. It is best that the cement grade is M500. The filler can be sand and crushed stone, or just clean sand can be used.

A plasticizer or dispersant is used as special additives. These mineral additives must be used, as they increase frost resistance and give the products greater strength. In addition, they increase the elasticity of the finished tile and give its surface a beautiful glossy shine.

When producing tiles, you definitely need a dye, since when used correctly, the durability and attractiveness of the finished product increases. As a percentage, the amount of dyes used should be no more than 4-5% of the total mass concrete mixture.

It is desirable for the dyes used to be lightfast, resistant to adverse weather conditions, and also insoluble in water. When preparing a concrete mixture, be sure to distribute the dye evenly. The recipe for preparing a mixture for tiles varies depending on the requirements for the resulting product.

Optimal composition of mortar for paving slabs

At self-production For tiles, it is important not only to make the product correctly, but also to determine the composition of the solution, which is often quite difficult to do. When preparing the solution, you need to take into account such factors as the type of raw materials used, as well as the conditions for pouring and drying the products. Before you start making tiles, you need to prepare the ingredients, a vibrating table with a perfectly flat surface and shapes.

Sand-cement mixture is made from such components as:

  • Cement grade M500 is white;
  • Fine river sand;
  • Granite crushed stone fraction 3-5 mm or screenings;
  • Water;
  • Liquid dye;
  • Plasticizer;
  • Dispersant.

The technology for preparing the mixture is quite simple. Initially, you need to mix the sand well with cement and the prepared plasticizer, and then add crushed stone, which, if desired, can be replaced with screenings. At the very end, you need to pour in liquid in small portions. The consistency of the resulting solution should be strong enough so that it easily adheres to the trowel, however, the mixture should not crumble or crack when lightly tapped on the form. The consumption of components largely depends on the required characteristics of the finished product, which is why it is calculated separately. Important! If all the required conditions are met, you can get paving slabs High Quality, which will be characterized by high strength and durability.

How to make paving slabs at home

The most popular element for paving paths in country house or on a summer cottage, central squares and city streets, paving slabs or figured paving elements are considered.

The main advantages of FEM are considered:

  • Ease of manufacture;
  • Attractive appearance;
  • Easy installation.

The tile manufacturing technology means that after preparing the mixture, it needs to be poured into molds located on a vibrating table. Before pouring the mixture, the molds must be greased. oil product. The vibration process lasts only a few minutes and its duration depends on the thickness of the tile.

Excess concrete needs to be removed with a spatula, and if the mixture sinks too much in the molds, then you need to add concrete mortar and continue vibration.

The surface of the solution is then smoothed, and then the filled forms are transferred to pallets. Depending on the air temperature and size, the tiles need to be dried for 2 to 4 days in a special drying chamber. In this case, it is necessary to maintain a certain air humidity and temperature. After drying, the molds are placed in an evaporation bath. When carrying out heat-steam treatment, it is necessary to set soft hardening modes and the temperature should not exceed 70 o C. The removal of finished products is carried out on a special table or manually. It is worth remembering that maximum strength occurs only after 28 days.

DIY plasticizer for paving slabs

There are many options now paving slabs, thanks to the use of special forms in its manufacture and dyes different colors. Many people prefer to make tiles themselves, but you need to know how many components to take when producing them. In addition to the main components, plasticizers are also used.

These substances help:

  • Improve the quality of manufactured products;
  • Simplify the process of forming tiles;
  • Improve the appearance of the finished product.

When producing tiles, the plasticizer must be prepared in advance. To do this, dry plasticizer is poured into water heated to 40 o C in a 1:2 ratio. Then the mixture must be mixed for 15 minutes using a mixer attachment. When the solution is ready, it needs to be left for a while. It is best to prepare the plasticizer in the evening, and in the morning you only need to stir it for 15 minutes.

Making paving slabs (video)

In order for the product to be durable and resistant to negative atmospheric conditions, it is imperative to comply with all the required conditions for the manufacture of tiles and use only quality materials.

When planning the arrangement of garden paths on your personal plot, you always want to create functional and at the same time beautiful elements landscape design. Materials for garden paths can be wooden cuts, a natural stone, gravel... But still, the most popular among owners of suburban areas as a covering for playgrounds and paths is paving slabs, which have an attractive appearance and excellent quality characteristics. Do-it-yourself paving slabs will be an original addition to the design of the site, in harmony with the style of the house and garden.

What are the advantages of homemade tiles?

Making paving slabs with your own hands is a rather labor-intensive and quite time-consuming, but at the same time quite exciting process. The result of the work is exclusive products, successfully combined into picturesque paths.

Interesting ideas for designing garden paths can be found in the material:

Such unusual paths serve as a worthy frame for flowering plants garden

In addition, making paving slabs with your own hands will significantly save money in family budget, because purchasing a ready-made coating costs many times more.

Tiles made at home may not be suitable for covering areas that are designed to accommodate heavy structures or vehicles, but they will great solution for walkways in the garden. At correct production concrete mixture and exposure to all stages of production technology, you can get a product with 100% durability.

Using colors and pigment dyes, you can create tiles of a wide variety of shades

By experimenting and coloring solutions with colors, you can get incredible combinations and patterns. Self-care is an interesting activity that allows you to unleash your creative potential, bringing a lot of pleasure and positivity.

Manufacturing process step by step

In order to make original paving slabs with your own hands, you first need to purchase the manufacturing material and stock up necessary tool. The tile is created based on a mixture of cement, sand and water, maintaining proportions that depend on the purpose of the product and the brand of cement used. To make durable garden paving slabs, it is advisable to use cement grade M 500. You should not skimp on the quality of the material, so as not to stumble on a crumbling path later.

Sand and water for the solution must be free of dirt and leaves. It’s not scary if the sand contains small pebbles. Their presence will not affect the quality of concrete. But the product will acquire an unusual texture.

Advice! Using plasticizers, you can increase the strength of paving slabs and their resistance to temperature changes.

A wide range of plastic molds for filling are available in specialized stores. They can have absolutely different shapes and sizes. Each of them is designed for 200 fills. To speed up the manufacturing process, it is advisable to purchase ten pieces of each type of shape.

By combining 2-3 product configurations you can create unusual ornaments and fancy “snakes”

It is also quite possible to use plastic food containers as molds, which are sufficiently flexible, soft and durable. Using containers of simple shapes with straight sides and right angles, you can make rectangular “bricks”.

These tiles fit together easily when laid.

Preparation of the solution

The necessary components are ready, we can safely start making exclusive paving slabs with our own hands. You can mix the sand-cement mixture as follows: manually, and using a hammer drill with a mixer attachment. When planning to create coatings amounting to several dozen or even hundreds of tiles, it is advisable to stock up on a concrete mixer to facilitate the process. It’s great if the owner already has it in his arsenal. After all, this is construction equipment can be used for many purposes, from concreting a stream bed in the garden to mending fence posts.

1 part cement and 3 parts sand are poured into a container, which can be a basin or bucket.

When mixing the solution in a concrete mixer to obtain a homogeneous mass, you first need to add sand, and then cement is poured into a continuously rotating container.

Add water to the mixture gradually, without ceasing to stir the solution. Exceeding the amount of water in the solution can lead to a decrease in the strength of the finished concrete. To prevent this, water-repellent additives and reinforcing fiber are added to the solution at the mixing and pouring stage.

The consistency of the solution should be dough-like: slightly liquid, but not slipping off the trowel

Tiles can be painted in the most unusual colors using inorganic pigments, which have increased resistance to light and atmospheric conditions, as well as an alkaline environment. The amount of dye for the solution is selected using the “sample method”, starting from 30-50 g and gradually increasing the proportion. The composition acquires a uniform color after 5-7 minutes. The readiness of the composition is determined by the absence of lumps and uniform coloring of the entire volume of material.

Pouring into molds

Before filling the mold, it is advisable to lubricate it with emulsol or any oil (you can even use used machine oil). This will make it easier to unmold the frozen product in the future.

The molds are filled with mortar and compacted with a trowel.

You can increase the strength of the product by laying it in a mold half filled with concrete. metal mesh, rod or wire, and then adding the remaining solution to the edges.

In order to compact the cement mass and expel excess air bubbles from the solution, it is necessary to create vibration in the concrete. A vibrating table is used for these purposes. In the absence of such a design, a rack or shelf can serve as an alternative. To create vibration, just tap the mallet a few times on the table.

Drying and removing products from containers

Forms filled with concrete are covered plastic film and aged for 2-3 days. During this period, it is important to maintain a sufficient level of moisture. To do this, it is advisable to periodically moisten the hardening products.

The place where the workpieces dry must be hidden from direct sun rays

After 2-3 days after casting, the tiles can be unmolded by slightly moving the sides and shaking. The product needs to be dried in the shade for another 3-4 weeks. During this time, the tiles will acquire sufficient strength and can be used as a covering for garden paths and recreation areas.

Nickname:

So I poured 10 pieces, 8 hours passed, I started to take them out, they burst, and even after I lit the ash, I put the molds on the boiler, is it possible to do this?

Dear! Even in this article it is written that the tiles are removed after 2 - 3 days, but you cannot try to dry the cement, this will lead to its weakening and cracking.
By good tile You need to lie down in the uniform for 5-6 days.

So I don’t have the same curves as yours, I have small ones

for BUMER,
The time for complete setting of cement is 28 days; if you let it dry quickly, it will not gain strength but will simply crumble like sand. And does not matter large shape or small.
Only plaster dries quickly.
Cement becomes stronger if you water it during the “rising” process and do not allow it to dry out. 8 hours is very little!!! for cement to set, at least 3 days, and then after three days the tiles must be removed very carefully (otherwise they may burst), and then before laying on the path, the removed tiles must be allowed to gain strength for about another 3 weeks

THANKS FOR THE ADVICE

I once made paving slabs at home. About 5% are defective.
On one site I found a video of the process of making paving slabs (the link was removed by the administrator).

Thanks for the advice, I tried it right now, poured 10 forms into the solution, added soap for the solution, I don’t know what will happen

for BUMER to pour the mold hot water and the tile will fall out on its own

It is necessary to add fine crushed stone, or slag or gravel to the solution as for the manufacture of normal paving slabs! Cement and sand, it will burst and all happiness!!

I’m curious what grades you got in school)))

Anonymous| August 5, 2013 11:02:59

for Anonymous, why do they all write with water and a small amount of waste (oil)

Anonymous| August 5, 2013 11:06:05

I can use metallurgical slag (fine fraction) we have it in bulk))))))))))) there are a lot of iron impurities there.

Alexander| August 21, 2013 02:56:44

soap is added to the solution so that it does not “sit” (if the sand is bad). This does not affect the strength of the concrete in any way...
They lubricate the mold with oil or grinding, then it’s easier to remove it, if you add it to the solution, it’s unlikely that anything good will turn out (I haven’t tried it) ...

Schwartz| August 22, 2013 23:58:07

The so-called soap is a special additive to the solution. The essence of this additive is that when it is added when preparing a solution, it requires less water, the solution also compacts better. Some additives can give concrete increased resistance to water and less absorption.
Therefore, the opinion expressed in the previous comment that the additive does not affect the strength of concrete is probably still wrong.
True, some manage to add ordinary soap and even fairies to the solution - and to be honest, it’s difficult to even say how such additives affect concrete for the better or for the worse.
IMHO Well, it seems to me that adding oil to the solution is absolutely forbidden.

decided to do wooden molds what to coat them with???

for Svetlana,
Some smear them with something, some with work. If the mold has no bottom, then it is easier to disassemble it after casting, since it is unlikely to be possible to remove the tiles from even coated formwork.

How long is it better to keep the grouted tiles under the film?

I kept it under the film for 2 - 3 days, then took it out of the molds and periodically wetted it throughout the entire period of concrete formation. True, my shapes were not the same as here, but smaller, but I think there is no difference.

Thank you! I'll try it on the balcony while it's winter

The balcony should be with a temperature of more than +10 degrees. Then you will have excellent tiles.

Please tell me, shape 300*300*18, whether crushed stone or reinforcing mesh should be added to the solution.

18 mm, this is a very thin tile, even with reinforcement it will easily break.
The thickness should be at least 25 - 30mm, and there is never too much reinforcement.

Crushed stone has a greater effect on the wear resistance of the product (abrasion), and reinforcement on strength (bending).

for Anonymous, So I wrote out the wrong form. I wanted to make tiles to cover the porch.

Approximately how much cement is needed for Foma 45mm deep and 250x250 in size? It’s not difficult to calculate how much sand you need. And yes, how much fiber should I add there???? Thank you very much in advance.

Usually it is 1 part cement and 3 parts sand. Fiber fiber is also added.
IN concrete works fiber is approximately 0.9 kg per m3 of finished solution.

You can do this 0.250 * 0.250 * 0.045 and divide it into 4 parts where 3 parts are sand and 1 part cement, it turns out 0.000703 m3, in one m3 there is approximately 1300 kg of dry cement, which means that a quarter of the volume of the tile weighs approximately 0.913 kg if this cement.

for Anonymous, 1 part cement to 3 parts sand is not a mortar for tiles!!! 1 part cement (grade no less than 500) 1 part crushed stone and 1 part sand and be sure to add superplasticizer C-3. but you can just use 1 part cement and 2 parts screenings plus a superplasticizer. and if it’s just cement and sand and even 1 to 3 - this is not for paving slabs!!!

for Anonymous,

You think the store sells sidewalks made using 500-grade cement. I personally saw how 400 were brought to one production and this happened all the time.

Good article! We also want to make our own tiles, and we’ve already made a vibration table ourselves. Watch the video, maybe you can do something similar too! (link removed by moderator)

A plasticizer is added.

Well, who told you that there must be crushed stone in the tiles! Firstly, they add granite screenings, not crushed stone! Large crushed stone in a small tile can take up the entire space, and the finished product will simply burst in half along the contour of this stone. And fine screening makes it possible to make the tiles more wear-resistant to abrasion. Also, many manufacturers have tiles made only on the basis of a cement-sand mixture, and believe me, it doesn’t get any worse, the proportion is 3-1 and with a plasticizer it will stand fine on a vibrating table.

If you smear the mold with oil, then on the front side there will definitely be small shells from air bubbles that the oil holds!

Therefore, if you want to get a smooth and glossy surface tiles, you need to use a special lubricant for molds, or at worst, prepare an “emulsion” of 1 part spindle and 10 parts warm water, all this is thoroughly shaken and applied in a thin layer to the form before pouring concrete.

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Paving slabs, paving stones - popular, easy to use and available material for designing sidewalks, paths, platforms, landscape design elements on the street, in a park, in a garden, on a personal plot. It has many advantages and a wide range of applications, since it is an inexpensive, easy to manufacture and environmentally safe coating.


Paving stones manufactured in compliance with all technological nuances, will be resistant to abrasion and will withstand many cycles of freezing and subsequent thawing. In addition, it is easy to install and, if the need arises, replacing damaged areas, this can be done at any time.

Production of paving slabs

It is not difficult to make paving slabs, the technology is quite simple and allows you to obtain a variety of shapes, sizes and colors as a result. The production process can be successively divided into stages:

  1. preparation of forms,
  2. concrete preparation,
  3. molding,
  4. holding and drying finished products,
  5. stripping,
  6. storage.

The simplest and most suitable, including for home use, is a vibration casting technology using plasticizing additives. This does not require large expenditures on equipment; if you have the skills, you can make it yourself. The result is low-porosity concrete paving stones with a dense texture and a smooth surface. This is precisely achieved with vibration casting, when concrete is compacted under the influence of electromechanical vibrators on a special vibrating table.

Necessary equipment and materials

Since the tiles are concrete, first of all, you need a concrete mixer, preferably of the forced type, that is, operating on the principle of a mixer. You will also need a vibrating table, casting molds and lubricant for them, and a concrete mixture.

Casting molds various sizes and configurations can be purchased freely. They are commercially available in rubber (they are the most durable, can withstand up to 500 castings), plastic and polyurethane (about 200 production cycles). Their variety is very large; manufacturers can make them to order, be it forms with a pattern, a certain surface texture, or forms for glossy paving slabs.

Lubrication is necessary for trouble-free stripping of products after the concrete has hardened. It can be purchased at finished form, do it yourself. The simplest lubricant is prepared as follows: 50 g of mineral oil must be mixed with 1.5 liters of water until an emulsion is formed. But it is important to achieve the desired balance of fat content, otherwise the lubricant can ruin the appearance of the finished concrete products.

The composition of the concrete mixture is the most important part of the production technology. This includes:

  • hard crushed stone of non-metallic rock 3-10 mm, or, as an alternative, granite screenings or gravel;
  • cleaned washed sand;
  • cement grade M500;
  • concrete plasticizer;
  • dry dye;
  • water.

The composition of the mixture can be changed to obtain different properties of the final product.

Preparation of concrete mixture

The recipe for the mixture for paving slabs is simple, but requires careful preparation of all ingredients and methodical adherence to the sequence of actions. It is not difficult to calculate the amount of each component if you know the required proportions of the volume of substances.

For one part of cement you need to take two parts of a mixture of sand and crushed stone, 0.02 parts of plasticizer and 0.2 parts of dry coloring pigment. The ratio of the volume of water to the volume of the dry mixture will be 2:3, that is, three parts of the dry mixture need two parts of water. This ratio will ensure the strength of the finished concrete product and is ideally suited for production at home.

You can also give the following calculation of the approximate consumption of materials per one square meter finished paving slabs 4.5 cm thick:

  • 23 kg of cement;
  • 56 kg of crushed stone (gravel or screenings);
  • 390 g plasticizer.

If the concrete is colored, then 1.5 kg will be needed for this amount of dye materials. Water will be added not by weight, but by volume of dry ingredients.

To obtain high-quality concrete, you need to follow some rules for handling plasticizers and dyes. Neither plasticizer nor dye can be added dry to a mixture of cement and crushed stone. The plasticizer is diluted in hot (70-80 degrees C) water (200 grams of substance per liter of water) and added in portions to the concrete solution being mixed. The dye is also diluted in water (40-50 degrees C, 250-280 grams of dry dye per liter of water) and added at the same stage as the plasticizer.

Before starting to prepare the solution, you need to rinse the walls of the concrete mixer with water, since they should be wet. Then water is poured in and, with continuous stirring, cement and sand are poured into it in parts. After obtaining a homogeneous emulsion of water and cement, crushed stone is added. Lastly, the plasticizer and dye, previously diluted, are poured in. The resulting solution must be mixed until smooth; this process takes some time. If the planned production volume is small, you can do without a concrete mixer and mix the solution manually.

We offer you to watch a video instruction on how to make paving slabs with your own hands:

Filling forms

Technological features of how to pour paving slabs correctly are as follows:. It is better to fill the forms halfway with concrete at first, then they need to be placed on a vibrating table. After the vibrating table starts working, the concrete will begin to compact, as evidenced by foam bubbles on its surface - this is how the air in the mixture comes out. As the concrete settles, it must be added to the required height.

Also, if gravel or crushed stone is not added to the solution, you can increase the strength of the tile by placing reinforcement in the form of iron mesh or wire in the casting mold.

Concrete can be poured in layers, for example, to save dye. Front side finished block then it will be colored and the rest of it will be gray. The colored and regular mixture should be kneaded separately, it is only important that its density is the same.

On average, forms with concrete should be left on the vibrating table for 4-5 minutes. After the vibration has finished, they must be placed on a flat surface. Hardening paving slabs should not be exposed to direct sunlight. Taking into account the presence of a plasticizer, it takes up to three days to completely harden.

Video on pouring forms of paving slabs on a personal plot:

Stripping and storage of paving slabs

In order not to damage the mold during unmolding, you need to warm it up by immersing it in water at 50-70 degrees Celsius, then just tap it with a rubber hammer so that you can easily “shake out” the finished product. After stripping the forms, they are ready for a new production cycle.

The finished paving slabs must be kept for up to three weeks on a flat surface and also in the shade, for further hardening and strengthening. It should be laid out for storage “face to face” if there are several rows, covering each with shrink film. During this time, the tile will dry out sufficiently and acquire the strength necessary for use.

The above manufacturing technology is applicable not only to paving slabs; it is also possible to organize the production of curbs in a similar way .

Application of paving slabs

Since paving slabs are a universal material, they can be used almost anywhere. Children's playgrounds, parking lots, pedestrian streets, park areas, bicycle paths, private land holdings - this is just the main list of areas, expanding which will not be difficult. Paving slabs are used to decorate flower beds, fountains, garden ponds, decorative fences and fences, porches and terraces, stair steps.

Laying this covering allows the soil underneath to “breathe”, as it allows air and water to pass through, and does not contain toxins, although it does interfere with plant growth. But the soil still retains its properties, unlike the soil under solid concrete or asphalt.

Paving slabs can withstand heavy structures, they are not destroyed by moisture and extreme weather. These properties are due to the fact that its composition is close to the composition concrete structures, used in construction in the supports and floors of buildings. It's durable and durable material, little exposed to climate and aggressive urban environments.

Several examples of using paving slabs in your suburban area








Recently, paving slabs have been successfully replacing asphalt and concrete. Many people prefer to post it garden paths, alleys and areas near the house, as it looks more organic in the overall landscape.

In addition, the slab allows the surface it covers to “breathe”: the circulation of moisture and air is not disrupted, natural microflora is preserved in the soil, which does not interfere with the growth of trees and bushes planted along the path.

To create a coating of an exclusive design, they most often choose to produce paving slabs with their own hands, despite the rather labor-intensive process of their manufacture.

A home-made stove is about 20% cheaper than a factory-made one. Besides You can make samples of any type at home non-standard shape and paint them in the colors of the desired shades.

An important advantage is the acquisition of skills in the manufacture of a popular product. Over time, this may well be useful for opening your own enterprise for the production of paving slabs.

If this experience is not transformed into a way of earning money, then the production process itself will certainly bring aesthetic pleasure and pride from the work done.

The advantage is the confidence that high-quality materials were used and in the right amount, i.e. deception is excluded.

The disadvantage of homemade products is their less strength and durability. The fact is that in factory conditions this concrete product is most often made using the vibration compaction method: pressing with a special press is added to the usual technology. Therefore, the material is more dense. This coating can withstand heavy loads and can be installed in areas with heavy traffic.

A slab made at home (by vibration casting method) absorbs more moisture than a purchased one. Over time, especially in winter when exposed to frost, it can crack and crumble or simply wear off.

This coating is protected with hydrophobic solutions. This extends the life of the stove.

On the pages of our website you will also learn how it should happen. We have prepared step-by-step instructions for you.

Consumables and raw materials

For production you should stock up necessary equipment and tools. The main ones are a concrete mixer, and.


The solution contains three required ingredients: water, sand, cement. But for a higher-quality slab, coarse filler, plasticizer, dye, and dispersant are added to the mixture. You also need mold lubrication.


Quantity calculation

To prepare a high-quality solution, you should adhere to the percentage of ingredients. Below is a table of components for making paving slabs 6 cm thick.

Step-by-step instruction

Your attention detailed instructions, how to make paving slabs with your own hands and what to do to avoid mistakes in work.

Composition of the mixture for the solution

The plasticizer is dissolved in small quantity warm water. You need to make sure there are no lumps.

The pigment for making colored paving slabs with your own hands should be diluted with hot water (the proportions in the solution should be in the ratio 1:3). The dye should dissolve completely.

These components are thoroughly mixed with sand, then crushed stone is added. Then everything is mixed with cement. A little water is added during the process. At the end the main amount of water is supplied.

The mixture is considered ready if it adheres tightly to the trowel without spreading around the edges.

How to prepare the form

Lubricant is applied to the inner walls, making sure that no stains from the substance remain there. To ensure that the mold is not too greasy, excess grease is carefully removed with a dry cloth.

If the surface is not greasy enough, it will be difficult to remove the tiles.

On our website you will also learn the basics, as well as how to choose the right material!

Features of laying wild stone in the yard with your own hands, and how to calculate the amount required material, we'll tell you.

We'll tell you everything about the process of paving paths with bricks: we have prepared detailed instructions for you.

Molding

The solution is poured into the molds. For two-color tiles, first lay a layer of colored and then gray concrete.

The forms are placed on a vibrating table, where they are shaken for about 5 minutes. Foam should appear on the surface, indicating the release of air bubbles.

Drying

Forms with concrete are stacked on flights or racks to dry for approximately 1-2 days. To prevent moisture from evaporating too quickly, they are covered with cellophane film.

The tile is carefully knocked out of the mold over something soft, such as a blanket. If the product is difficult to remove, then the mold with filling is lowered into a container with hot water (about 60 degrees), which will make removal easier.

After this, the tiles are left to dry for another month. Only then will it be suitable for use.

Important nuances in production, error prevention

If at some points the technology for the production of paving slabs was not followed, then Various errors may appear.

  • Paint is unevenly distributed. Most likely, it was poorly diluted or the product was overexposed on a vibrating table.
  • It is impossible to pull the tile out of the mold. The walls were not lubricated enough.
  • Bubbles or holes have formed. The tile was little vibrated and all the air did not escape from the mixture.
  • The tiles began to crumble. Indicates that the proportions are not respected or the material is of poor quality.

In this video you will learn how to make paving slabs at home - simple technology DIY making:

Safety precautions when working

When working with cement, one of the most harmful factors is dustiness. That's why Before preparing the mixture, you should put on overalls: gloves, respirator or protective mask.

But it is also important to ensure that diluted dye or plasticizer does not come into contact with your skin or eyes.

You need to be careful when the concrete mixer is working. You should check the integrity of the wires and sockets, do not test the quality of the concrete and do not correct problems when the equipment is plugged in.

Although the process of preparing paving slabs is labor-intensive, the result is worth it. In a month, garden paths lined with a beautiful exclusive coating can turn personal plot into a small masterpiece of landscape design.

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