The simplest variation of sharpening is homemade device from wooden and abrasive bars. To make it, you will need two bars of each type - they must be strictly the same dimensions. Wooden products must first be treated with sandpaper to remove all burrs from their surface.
The manufacturing procedure itself will not cause any difficulties. First, mark the wooden blocks: taking into account the required sharpening angle of the knives, draw lines for future fastenings of abrasive workpieces. Then apply sharpening stones to the resulting lines and mark their width on the wood. The next step is the cuts: make them according to the markings on both wooden products cuts of the required slope and depth of 1-1.5 cm. Insert abrasive bars into the recesses and secure them with bolts.
Advice. To prevent the resulting device from slipping on the surface while servicing the knives, attach a rubber gasket to it from below - it will give the device the necessary stability.
Massive sharpener on a stand
A more complex variation of the knife is a stand with a separate support and a sharpening rod attachment. To make it you will need:
- chipboard sheet;
- a block of wood 8 cm long and 2x4 cm in cross section;
- steel rod M6 or M8;
- plexiglass 6x12 cm;
- magnet with holes for fasteners;
- self-tapping screws, bolts, wing nuts;
- wooden clamps;
- rubber feet;
- saw and drill.
Sharpener construction diagram:
- Cut three blanks from the chipboard sheet: 7x8 cm, 8x30 cm and 12x37 cm.
- On the oblong side of the workpiece 8x30 cm, 6 cm from the edge, make a hole.
- Drill holes for the legs in the corners of the 12x37 cm workpiece.
- Drill two through perpendicular holes in wooden block: the first is 3 cm from the edge, the second is 3 cm from the first. From the edge of the product to the first hole, cut a 1 cm thick recess.
- Make a slot in the center of the plexiglass strip.
- On a workpiece 12x37 cm, at a distance of 4 cm from the edge, secure the workpiece 7x8 cm perpendicularly with two self-tapping screws. Fix the workpiece 8x30 cm on top with self-tapping screws.
- IN highest point Drill a small recess into the installed workpiece 8x30 cm and fix the magnet in it with self-tapping screws. Place plexiglass on the same blank - fasten the products with a bolt through the previously made hole and slot.
- On any edge of the 12x37 cm workpiece, drill a hole for a steel sharpening rod and secure it there with a wing nut.
- Place the block on the rod, securing it with a bolt and nut.
- Using a rod, nuts and two clamps, assemble a knife holder.
- Screw the legs to the finished stand.
How to sharpen a knife correctly?
For quality, it is not enough to build one of the above-mentioned devices - you also need to master the rules manual sharpening, and understand the order of work.
First, the required sharpening angle of the tool is calculated - it must be maintained throughout the entire sharpening process. Next, using smooth movements alternately “from yourself” and “towards you”, begin to move the blade along the sharpening element - an abrasive or a rod. In one movement it should go along the sharpener from edge to edge. In this case, movements are performed perpendicular to the edge of the blade.
Important! At the end of each pass, the blade should remain on the sharpener and not tear off, otherwise you can not only dull the knife even more, but also deform its side surface.
Move the blade along the sharpener with one side until it reverse side If a burr does not appear, then turn the knife over and begin sharpening the other side of the blade in the same way. Continue sharpening alternating sides until the burrs are completely gone. Gradually reduce the pressure of the knife.
How to determine the sharpening angle?
The most important parameter for sharpening a knife is the required blade angle. It depends on the scope of application of a particular tool and the range of tasks assigned to it:
- Any type of razor – angle 10-15 degrees.
- Fillet knife – 15 degrees.
- Knife for fruits, bread and vegetables – 15-20 degrees.
- Multifunctional tools for slicing food – 20-25 degrees.
- Hunting knives - 25 degrees. Such blades are designed for cutting not only soft products, but also wood, bones, and fabrics.
- Utility knives general purpose– 25-30 degrees.
- Tourist and camping knives – 30-35 degrees.
- Knives for cutting hard materials – 30-50 degrees. The greater the sharpening angle, the worse such a knife cuts food, but the better it copes with wood, trunks, and plastic.
Please note that there are also combination knives: they are divided into several zones with different sharpening angles. The advantage of such tools is versatility, the disadvantage is the complexity of maintenance.
So, assembling a knife sharpening device yourself is an excellent way out of a situation where you don’t want to buy a professional device or regularly contact craftsmen to service the tools. You have two options for making sharpeners different levels complexity - choose which one you can handle, and use it strictly according to the indicated rules, so that the sharpening is not only of high quality, but also safe.
DIY knife sharpener: video
I continue to sharpen the knife. I've already shown mine homemade device to make slopes (tapering surfaces of the blade). At the same time, I made a polishing disk, sewing several disks together so that they would not diverge. Next, the task was to sharpen the knife - to make cutting edges that form the cutting edge.
An attempt to sharpen it with a whetstone did not give me the result I needed, because the metal of the blade is hard and sharpening takes a lot of time. Therefore, I decided to make a homemade device similar to the one I made for forming slopes.
I installed the main part of the device - the corner - at the point where the surface grinding wheel is at an angle of 75 degrees to the vertical line. I used a regular corner piece and made a hole in the central part. I aligned the corners at 90 degrees so that the existing small semicircle would not interfere with work. I drilled a hole in the center for a 16mm bolt. A nut in the form of a clamp was welded to the bolt. A channel is installed at the bottom, the structure is pressed with a bolt and nut of 12.
The device can be raised or lowered with two nuts on the top bolt. When ascending, the sharpening angle will be larger, and when descending, it will be sharper (smaller). Using a clamp, the device can be moved towards the disk (for example, when the disk is ground down) or moved away from it.
The design can be simplified and you can install one long bolt to immediately make descents or, lifting it higher, sharpen the knife under desired angle.
The cutting edges are very smooth, as if made on milling machine. If you correct the edges on a small block, the knife will be razor sharp. The result is an almost perfect sharpening. The advantage of this device is that it is very simple design, which can be assembled from scrap materials.
With repeated use of knives, every housewife faces a problem when they begin to become dull and it becomes simply impossible to work with them. In addition, this is unsafe, since the knife can slip while cutting and injure you. To prevent this from happening, knives should be sharpened in a timely manner using a special sharpening device.
You can buy a knife sharpener at your nearest hardware store or at the market, where they will offer you different kinds devices. You will have to choose yourself. But in order not to make a mistake, you need to know how to correctly evaluate them in terms of convenience and quality of use.
The offered options do not always satisfy consumers, so many make sharpeners with their own hands, using special stones, tools and drawing sketches with dimensions. The photo shows the options homemade sharpeners for knives.
Features of knife sharpening
When sharpening knives, the main thing to do is correct angle contact between the edges of the blades so that they serve you long and efficiently. Therefore, when sharpening knives yourself, it is necessary to maintain the existing angle of the blades.
Each knife blade has its own characteristics optimal angles tilt:
- from 10 to 15 degrees - for a medical scalpel or straight razor;
- from 15 to 20 degrees – for household knives used for cutting bread products, vegetables or fruits;
- from 20 to 25 degrees – for multifunctional knives for cutting a variety of products;
- from 25 to 30 degrees – for reliable companions of hunters and tourists on long hikes;
- from 30 to 40 degrees - for cutting materials that are particularly hard.
To sharpen the correct blade angle, you can't do without special devices, since it is difficult to do this manually.
The design of such devices is not complicated, so it is easy and quick to make it yourself, and detailed instructions for making sharpeners you can borrow from the Internet.
Types of knife sharpeners
Choose from a large assortment of different types of knife sharpeners the right option simple enough for yourself.
The main elements of the sharpening device are a stop for fixing the knife and an abrasive stone, which is used as ready-made abrasive materials (stones) or self-made. But before you get to work, you need to learn how to properly make a knife sharpener with your own hands.
Types of sharpening stones
There are several types of whetstones:
- aquatic. Sharpening stones used in water are less likely to wear out during use.
- oil The structure and configuration are similar to aquatic ones, but with a more oily surface.
- natural. For their production, only natural raw materials are used with pre-treatment during the production process.
- artificial. In this case, the name speaks for itself, i.e. the abrasive material is created artificially.
- rubber. They are not as common as the previous ones, and they are also inconvenient during use.
What can you make a sharpener from?
To make a whetstone with your own hands, you can use the most in a simple way. Take a small glass plate rectangular shape about 5 mm thick. Using double-sided tape, attach strips of coarse and medium-grit sandpaper to it on both sides.
The block is ready for use; if necessary, worn sandpaper can be easily replaced with a new one. This method is the most budget-friendly.
The disadvantages of this device include:
- rapid wear of the abrasive and fragility of the product (when fastening the timber you need to be careful that the glass does not crack).
- possible overheating of the material during rapid movements during the sharpening process.
You can find the best ideas for knife sharpeners on their respective websites.
Wooden bars
This method of making a tool for sharpening knives is also simple and accessible to everyone. You will need four identical bars: two abrasive and two wooden.
Before starting work, sand the wood blocks with sandpaper so that their surface becomes smooth without burrs. Mark the block according to the required angle of inclination. Apply a whetstone and mark its width on a block of wood.
Note! 
Make cuts 1.5 cm deep according to the mark and insert abrasives into the grooves. Secure the stones with bolts. A piece of rubber attached to the bottom will give the structure stability.
In addition, you can make an adjustable sharpener with your own hands, but the next article will tell you how to do this.
Photos of DIY knife sharpeners
Note! 
Note! 
IN household There are always cutting, sawing and planing tools. During the work, the sharpness is lost, and the blades have to be restored. You can give knives and planes to a workshop, but this costs money and takes up extra time. Therefore, home craftsmen prefer to sharpen the tool.
Important! Only blades with a certain degree of hardening can be sharpened. If the cutting part has a hardness above 55 HRC, it cannot be sharpened with improvised tools.
You can buy a device for sharpening knives or other household utensils at the store. Save time, but spend a considerable amount - good sharpening are expensive.
By the way, there are different opinions about what the knife sharpening device is called. Emery, whetstone, whetstone, sharpener, musat...
These definitions may refer to the same thing, or various products? We will talk about this and how to make such a device yourself in the article.
Since the advent of cutting objects (weapons, knives, axes), man has been looking for a way to restore the sharpness of the edge. In the Bronze and Copper Ages it was simple.
Greetings, Samodelkins!
Today I want to show you how you can use the materials that are (or at least should be) in almost every workshop to make an excellent device for sharpening knives evenly.
Initially, the master wanted to buy a ready-made device for sharpening knives in China (namely in the Aliexpress online store), but he thought why not try to make such a sharpener himself. Moreover, the prices for this product from Chinese friends are rather high.
For self-made will be needed following materials and tools:
1. Ordinary board;
2. Sandpaper;
3. Screwdriver;
4. Hammer;
5. Thick electrode 1 pc;
6. Jigsaw;
7. A piece of laminate;
8. Bolts and nuts;
9. Wooden handle;
10. Hex key;
11. Fluoroplastic or textolite (fiberglass).
Let's get down to actually making the sharpener.
First, let's take an ordinary board and cut a piece out of it. Then you need to process the resulting wooden blank, namely, sand it with sandpaper.
It will serve as the base for our homemade sharpening device.
In terms of size, we get it to be 26 cm in length, the width of the workpiece is 6.5 cm, and the height of the wooden base is 2 cm.
You also need to make holes in this board. In total, this part of the future product will have 6 through holes. We drill 2 holes for the stand itself (more on that a little later). Nearby we drill another hole of a smaller diameter, and also on the other side of the board we drill 3 more holes that will serve to attach the pressure plate.
Insert nuts into the holes made.
In the future, these nuts can be placed on glue so that they do not fall out, but for now everything seems to be quite tight.
Then we will start making the guide post itself. The master made it from an ordinary thick electrode. It needs to be bent in half. Next, using a hammer, the author knocked off the entire upper part of the welding electrode and ground it. By the way, you can also grind using an ordinary screwdriver. To do this, simply insert the electrode into the screwdriver chuck and hold it in your hand sandpaper polish the product.
At this stage, we insert the resulting workpiece (guide post) from the electrode into these two holes.
We insert it not at a right angle, but at a slight angle. The guide angle is somewhere between 65 and 70 degrees.
Everything fits quite tightly, but also for greater reliability of our design, in the future it will be possible to attach the guide post with epoxy glue, or with some other glue, or with something else.
But perhaps the master is mistaken and this is not fluoroplastic. Fluoroplastic is most often white and somewhat slippery. Most likely it is textolite or fiberglass. But in essence it’s not that important. The main thing is that this material is quite hard and does not wear off.
From this piece (fluoroplastic or non-fluoroplastic), the author cut out a kind of pressure plate. He made holes in it, as well as small recesses, so that the caps would extend slightly into the depths of the plate.
Then we place this plate on the previously made wooden base. Secure with screws.
The author took the screws with a hex key. The master also made a small hole in the base of the future knife sharpener so that this key would always be in this sharpener.
The whole thing is clamped and they (the screws) are actually not visible on the plate.
But here, the master did not do the countersunk work, since the sharpening part of the tool will not touch this screw.
Next, the author made such a plate from the same fluoroplastic.
In this plate I made 2 holes for the same hexagonal screw.
Next, the whole thing is placed here and pressed with the help of a lamb.
Then the master made just such a guide for the sharpening stones.
The length of the guide is 57 cm. The author made it from an ordinary steel rod. Also cleaned it up. And on one of the ends I put this handle (it looks like it came from an old Soviet file).
You can also strengthen this connection by placing the wooden handle of the file on the glue, but it fits in quite tightly here and nothing falls out.
Regarding the attachment of the sharpening stones themselves. The author took a small piece of the clamp, cut it and made holes. As a result, we got corners like this, two identical ones.
And here I put a nut with a thread and a clamping screw.
The master also installed a spring on the guide so that sharpening stones could be changed without unscrewing the nut with the clamping screw.
The author made the sharpening stones themselves, or rather the base for these stones, from an ordinary piece of laminate. Just cutting it into strips.
The width of the strips is 2.5 cm, and the length is about 20 cm.
The pieces of laminate already have ready-made grooves, which is where the corners of the guide part of the device will go.
The author then glued the sandpaper onto the laminate pieces using double sided tape and signed which one is where. And, in fact, this is how it all turned out:
This whole thing is quite easy to set up. Using the groove of the laminate we get into one corner of the guide, and with the help of a spring we press the sharpening stone with the second corner.
All. Nothing falls out anywhere. Everything lies flat and quite tightly.
Let's continue assembling our device. We insert the guide with the sharpening stone attached to it into the hole prepared in advance for it, and you can safely begin the process of sharpening the knife.
The stroke is quite large due to the fact that here the author removed a small chamfer on both sides.
