In the kitchen, the bulk of the entire workspace is occupied by floor cabinets. They are intended for storing dishes, food and other utensils. They are built into household appliances such as: dishwashers, ovens, stoves, etc. And, of course, most of the base cabinet plays the role work surface. All these requirements for the headset require its reliability and convenience, and adjustable legs for cabinets can help with this. What are they, what are their advantages and how to install them correctly? Let's look at it in order.
Legs for kitchen base cabinets
By purchasing a ready-made kitchen set or custom-made, the first thing you should pay attention to is its base. The most common options for its design are kitchen plinths or legs. Less often base cabinets are attached to the side wall, creating the effect of furniture floating in the air.
Adjustable legs for kitchen
The main requirements for a kitchen base are:
- Strength endurance. The foundation is the support for everything. He has to withstand the weight of not only the furniture itself, but also all the utensils that are stored inside it. And sometimes the weight of a person during force loads that arise during the process of cooking at the cutting table.
- The second function that the base must perform concerns the appearance of the product. It should not stand out from the overall design of the entire kitchen, but harmoniously correspond to it.
The video shows adjustable legs for the kitchen:
Now, taking into account the main requirements, let's consider the options for the basis for a kitchen set.
A steel bathtub is much lighter than a cast iron one, for this reason it will be much easier to transport and install. The weight of such equipment is small, so it cannot be installed in the center of the bathroom without support from the walls. First you need to install steel bath on the legs. Reliable and stable legs for a steel bathtub are those that follow the contour of the bottom of the product itself; in addition, it is desirable that they be self-adhesive.
Some manufacturers include bolted supports for a steel bathtub in the installation kit. But this set of fasteners is not harmless to the surface of the product, because it can damage the enamel layer. In case of excessive load, the enamel may crack in the fastening area. In addition, the “standard” legs of bathtubs from some manufacturers, alas, do not differ in quality. Therefore, it is preferable to purchase universal legs for a steel bathtub with a self-adhesive base.
Generally speaking, installing metal plumbing fixtures is practically no different from installing cast iron fixtures (except, of course, that they are easier to move). But there are still some differences.
Features of installing a steel bath
Due to its great weight and massiveness, cast iron baths can be installed in the middle of the bathroom, but installing a steel product in the same way is impossible: the bathtub must be adjacent to three walls.
Based on this, you need to first install the bathtub, and then lay the wall tiles. For the bath to pass freely between the walls, the distance from one wall to the other should be equal to the linear dimensions of the product, plus five to six millimeters.
We fasten the legs
How to secure the legs of a steel bathtub? So, we have already decided what is best on a self-adhesive basis. Such supports are shaped like the letter “P” with some deflection at the base. They contain screws for adjustment with plastic tips. The most reliable set of legs for a steel bathtub has smaller supports and longer adjustable bolts.
Since metal products are not very weighty and can tip over under the weight of water or the weight of a person, additional support can be made for them in the form of laying blocks or bricks. Naturally, this support is installed with outside equipment.
After all the basic work on installing the plumbing fixture has been carried out, the brick is covered with tiles, so its original appearance does not play a special role. If you intend to make such a support, then be sure to leave space below for free access to the siphon.
To install the legs on steel bath the following operations must be performed:
Preparation
It is necessary to prepare a place for installation of equipment. It is immediately necessary to organize conclusions for the sewer drain and the future mixer. The next step is to treat the walls with moisture-proofing agents. If the angles between the walls are not straight, they need to be aligned. After which you can begin installing the plumbing fixture.
Installation of legs
- First you need to turn the bathtub upside down. To avoid scratching the enamel layer, it is better to use cardboard or a layer of foam rubber as a substrate. When purchasing a product in a cardboard package, you simply do not need to remove it.
- The legs for a metal bathtub must first be tried on at the places of future installation. One pair of legs should be installed at a distance of approximately two centimeters from the outlet hole towards the center of the product.
- The second pair of legs is placed close to the second edge of the equipment.
Tip: To ensure that the legs fit very well to the bottom, you can manually adjust the depth of the channel deflection. In any case, it is advisable to do this procedure not under the bathtub, but somewhere off to the side on a substrate.
- At the joints of the product, its surface must be degreased with undiluted alcohol or acetone. After this, you need to remove the protective layer from the linings, put the legs in the right places and press them firmly to the bottom of the equipment. It is advisable to degrease the installation sites with alcohol, but under no circumstances use a solvent.
Tip: To ensure that the protective layer comes off easily from the lining, it can be heated with a construction hair dryer or a regular household hair dryer.
- For adjustment, the threaded rods must be carefully and slowly driven all the way into the plastic tips, and care must be taken to ensure that the threads are not damaged. If you do not have a rubber hammer, it is better to tighten the supplied nuts on the studs before hammering them in. After this, the nuts need to be screwed in all the way to the tips, and the studs need to be screwed into their designated points on the support.
- To avoid incidents, you should immediately evaluate the parameters of the bathroom door, because it may be narrow. In this case, it will not be possible to bring the equipment with the legs attached into the room without damaging the supports. Then it is advisable to attach the legs in the bathroom itself.
Adjusting the bath by level
- After installing the product in in the right place, do not forget that the height of a steel bathtub with legs must be at the same level on all sides. To do this, you can use a level and if there is a discrepancy in height on one side of the equipment and the other, simply adjust it using the adjustment screws on the legs themselves.
- Next, in the corners between the sides of the bathtub and the walls, you need to drive four narrow wedges of wood. The gaps between the edge of the steel equipment and the wall should be filled with special foam from a gun. After it has completely hardened, it is necessary to pull out the wooden wedges.
- To ensure that water does not pour under the bathtub, on top polyurethane foam, level with the sides of the product, you can put a layer of silicone.
Conclusion
Upon completion of all stages, the space under the plumbing equipment can be bricked, or you can simply install a decorative sliding screen. After which installation metal product can be considered completed.
There are times in the kitchen when you need to move some furniture. This can be solved by installing legs on it for kitchen furniture adjustable. In our progressive times, the kitchen is no longer only a place where the process of preparing and eating food takes place, but also, figuratively speaking, a “family club” - a place where all family members constantly meet. In modern small apartments The size of the kitchen leaves little space for such meetings, one, maximum two people and that’s it, there is no more space, so you have to move the kitchen furniture or table so that all household members can find a place.
Kitchen furniture with legs is very convenient, as its height can be adjusted.
Adjusting the height of the kitchen unit
Many people don’t even think about how important the height of the kitchen is. various elements furniture: table, bar counter, sink, etc. When selecting furniture components, the main attention is paid to appearance, functionality, availability additional features. Yes, this is all correct, of course, because if the color of the kitchen goes against the main direction of the design, this is bad. But there are no trifles in this matter. If the kitchen is purchased and installed, use it to your health. But after some time, we suddenly notice that the table seems good, but is located a little low, the bar niche is stylish and looks beautiful, but it’s hard to use, you have to reach out to open the door. That’s when we remember something small, but quite important element kitchen set - the presence of adjustable legs for kitchen furniture.
All manufactured furniture has standard heights. But every person’s height is different and it’s hard to adapt to everyone. A woman spends quite a lot of time in the kitchen, and standing, bending over a little, or vice versa, stretching up a little, is quite uncomfortable (Fig. 1). According to certain rules, the height of the countertop in the kitchen of 85 cm is intended for people with a height of 180-189 cm, but what if your height does not meet these criteria and is 170 cm. To adjust the height to suit you, the adjustable legs of the set will help you.
Types of supports for kitchen furniture
Furniture legs must be of high quality, as they take on the entire load of the set.
The main purpose of the legs is to protect any furniture from penetration of moisture from the floor and, accordingly, its destruction. And the created air gap between the floor and the bottom of the furniture elements prevents this. For beauty, the resulting gap between the floor and the bottom of the furniture can be closed from the outside with a false panel in a color matched to the main color of the furniture. The legs play an important role, bearing virtually the entire load of the furniture structure.
Functions of furniture legs:
- Decorative. The entire set of furniture legs must match overall design throughout the kitchen.
- Power. They are the support of the entire furniture structure. They support and balance the weight of furniture cabinets and items placed in them. And if you install them in a kitchen sofa, then so does the weight of the person sitting on them.
Furniture legs can be installed on any element of the kitchen set. They are available in any shape, size, color range and by design there are:
- wheeled;
- adjustable;
- furniture rollers;
- screw type;
- static.
Static type legs are mainly used in manufacturing upholstered furniture and economy class kitchen sets.
Roller feet can be used where only forward movement of the furniture is required.
Roller supports are used where only linear (not requiring the object to turn when moving) movement of furniture elements is necessary and are made in the form of a U-shaped frame with a wheel mounted on it on the transverse axis.
Conventional adjustable supports are a standard screw with a plastic knob mounted on it (so that when moving an object it does not damage the floor covering) and a counter part, which is a nut with eyes welded to it for fastening to the bottom of the cabinet. Height adjustment is made by screwing in a screw. The disadvantage of this design is the need to unload the cabinet before adjustment. When adjusting, you have to constantly raise its angle in order to set the correct height, and this can be physically difficult and requires two people to do it (one lifts, the other adjusts at the same time).
Materials for manufacturing and their characteristics
The material used to make kitchen legs can be:
- metal;
- tree;
- plastic;
- aluminum and various alloys based on it.
Metal supports for kitchen furniture (Fig. 1). We install them openly, without covering them with the front false panel. They can act as part design solution, especially if they are chrome plated or have some peculiar shape. They are quite durable and have good wear resistance. They tolerate forces well that can lead to deformation of the product.
Figure 1. Metal legs for kitchen furniture can act as part of the design of the room.
Plastic kitchen legs (Fig. 2). They are mounted under the kitchen unit at a small distance from the facade. They have fastenings on which the front false panel is installed, hiding them. If the furniture in the kitchen has niches for built-in household appliances, then its bottom must also be covered with a false panel so as not to disturb the unity of style. Relatively cheap look products, are easy to wash and clean, do not rot and corrode. You can easily adjust the height of your kitchen furniture without much effort. At the same time, they can withstand quite significant loads. There are certain design options that can support up to half a ton of weight.
Wooden kitchen legs. They are used more as a decorative element in the manufacture of wooden kitchen tables. Can be made in the form carved elements or other shapes drawn in advance by designers. But this no longer applies to mass production, and to a single artistic interior. They are easily deformed and dry out over time. Their cost is quite high. They are also produced adjustable (but only in combination with other materials).
Available standard sizes of kitchen supports
Manufacturers of furniture fittings produce several standard sizes adjustable legs for kitchen furniture. Execution heights are available in 100, 120 and 150 mm. Adjustable up to 30 mm. They are screwed to furniture elements from below with self-tapping screws in places where their use is necessary.
One of important features The use of adjustable legs makes it possible to install a tabletop or any other kitchen furniture strictly horizontally, using a construction level for this operation, despite all possible unevenness of the floor. Usually, an adjustment reach of up to 3 cm is enough for this.
For kitchen floor cabinets with dimensions of no more than 80 cm, four legs must be attached to the corners. If the length of the cabinet is longer than this size, then it is necessary to increase the number of legs by installing additional legs in the middle.
Adjustable Kitchen Supports for Kitchen Tables
Figure 2. Plastic legs are the most a budget option supports.
Another important function of adjustable legs for kitchen furniture is their use to set the required height kitchen table to hide any unevenness in the floor. The most common option is to install a chrome support with a screw-in plastic tip. It allows you to adjust the table height within a range of up to 4 cm.
The reverse side of the chrome leg is attached to the tabletop from the inside with self-tapping screws. The advantages of a chrome table support are that it can withstand quite significant loads, stylish appearance chrome, which allows the table to fit harmoniously into almost all styles used to create kitchen designs.
When purchasing furniture for the kitchen, pay attention not only to its main parameters, but also do not forget about the little things.
For example, take care of the ability to adjust kitchen items in height. After all, any, even the most insignificant detail, can greatly overshadow the joy of the purchase and will constantly remind you of itself. This could be hitting your knees on the bottom of the table, an aching back after working in the kitchen, or the inability to pour a full pot of water due to the horizontal skew of the countertop.
Be careful, and then the purchased item will please you for a long time and will not cause any inconvenience.
A dacha is, of course, the place where you want to take a break from the bustle of the city, to breathe Fresh air and just drink fragrant herbal tea on the veranda. And decorating the dacha with furniture made by yourself will add a special charm to such a simple ceremony.
When choosing materials for a table, first of all you should pay attention to the quality of the wood - not all wood is suitable for use. Conifers, such as spruce and pine, are pliable and easy to work with, but such material without appropriate treatment is more flammable, and the resins released can ruin the tablecloth.
Hardwoods (aspen, oak, ash) are more advantageous; products made from them are strong, durable and have an attractive appearance.
| Wood type | Brinell hardness) | Density (kg/m3) | Stability | Color trends |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Birch | 3,0 | 600 | average | the color becomes deeper |
| Larch | 2,6 | 500 | good | takes on shades of gray |
| European oak | 3,7 | 700 | good | the color becomes deeper |
| Ash | 4,0 | 700 | average | light to straw, yellowish brown |
| Pear | 3,3 | 680 | average | blushes |
| Cherry | 3,0 | 580 | good | from light pink to deep reddish hue |
Materials and tools
For interior design dachas and country houses Long narrow ones are more acceptable, allowing you to move around the room unhindered. This should be taken into account when preparing everything necessary for work and designing the table itself.
For the table, it is preferable to use a board with a thickness of at least 30 mm. This thickness will ensure the strength of the table and the ability to withstand heavy loads. The optimal length ranges from 150-200 cm. You can purchase two ready-made wooden shield size 30-2000 mm.
Balusters or wooden beams for legs. Curly balusters will give homemade table industrial chic and luxurious look. And to make legs from timber, you need to choose boards with a minimum cross-section of 50x50 mm. Comfortable height The table is provided with a leg height of approximately 73-75 cm.
Other materials and tools
- Boards 20 mm thick and 8-10 cm wide for the tabletop frame.
- Wood putty.
- Screwdriver and screws for 30 and 50 mm.
- Sandpaper of various grits, as well as a holder.
- Clamps for fixing legs and table top.
- Electric drill.
- Sander.
- Building level.
- Square.
- Tape measure or centimeter.
- Marker.
- Glue.
Manufacturing stages
When preparing materials, all boards and beams are processed with a plane, sander or coarse-grained sandpaper to remove irregularities, remnants of cut knots, and clean cracks. The boards must be even and smooth, so they are sanded on all sides, including the ends, edges and corners.
If it is intended to be manufactured as a solid panel without gaps, then it is better to purchase tongue-and-groove materials - this will create a stronger adhesion of the single sheet and save time on adjusting the elements. Chamfers are cut from the edges of the beams for the legs.
Assembling the frame for the tabletop
The frame helps to enhance the strength and stability of the table; its dimensions depend entirely on the parameters of the table top, but there are several general rules: both the length and width of the frame should be less countertop by 30-25 cm.
Video - Making a dining table for a summer house
The frame itself is assembled from 4 boards that form the outer frame, and 6 internal transverse strips. The boards are installed on the edge at a right angle using a square and tightened with 50 mm self-tapping screws. The joints are pre-coated with glue (PVA or wood glue). To prevent the boards from splitting, you can drill guide holes in them and only then screw in the screws.
Along the length of the frame, markings are made for the transverse strips, and guides are drilled. It is very important that the cross members are strictly perpendicular to both sides of the frame frame. The ends of the transverse strips are coated with glue, and the entire structure is fixed with self-tapping screws. Make sure that the screw heads do not protrude, but are completely “recessed” into the wood.
Table frame (production option)
The tabletop boards are connected, aligned with a tape measure and laid face down on the floor; a frame is placed on top so that the transverse planks lie tightly on the tabletop. Guides for self-tapping screws are drilled into the planks, and all elements are tightened with 30 mm screws. There are 5-6 screws for each cross board.
Assembling the table legs
The tabletop is placed on a workbench or several stools for subsequent installation of legs. The table leg is fixed in the corner of the frame with clamps, and guides for self-tapping screws are drilled into the frame.
Before attaching the leg, glue is applied to the end of the block - this will protect the table from loosening and will contribute to greater strength. It is recommended to fix the leg on each side with four screws, but if desired, you can additionally use metal corners. Round balusters are fixed with long self-tapping screws on the front side of the table, and square balusters are fixed with corner fasteners.
Finishing
After installing the legs, the table is turned over and placed on the floor. Depending on the design of the table, the corners are sawed off along the radius with a jigsaw or the end is completely rounded. You can cut chamfers from the edges of the tabletop and sand everything thoroughly.
If necessary, scratches and cracks resulting from work are repaired using wood. It is better not to touch the screw heads so that the structure can be tightened.
After the final sanding, all dust and shavings are removed from the table, and the product itself is covered with stain or several layers of varnish.
Tables with elements of decoupage decor or single painting look beautiful and unusual. But hiding the beauty natural wood there is no need to put it under a layer of paint; modern varnishes and impregnations will do the job necessary work to protect the product from moisture.
Video - Table with legs for a summer house
Option 2. Tree stump table
Unusual and in a non-standard way to equip a personal space is to create interior items from natural materials. When landscaping an area, trees that are old or that threaten buildings are often cut down. If your dacha has or had just such a tree, then you definitely won’t have any problems finding a suitable stump. If the idea came spontaneously, then you can look for the desired stump in clearings, in the nearest forest, or ask the owners of neighboring plots.
Materials and tools
To make such a fantasy table from a stump you will need very little:
- wood for the tabletop, the recommended thickness of the tabletop is from 20 mm, when choosing boards you need to adhere to the rule “the larger the tabletop, the larger the cut of the board”;
- stump. For the work you will need a dried stump of any type of tree, the main thing is that the wood is intact, not damp or rotten. If the tree was cut down recently, the stump needs to be dried thoroughly. And it’s better to do this by placing the stump in a warm, dry room or on outdoors in sunny weather. It must be remembered that several weeks is not enough time for proper drying. As a rule, the entire process takes at least two months. You can determine the condition of the wood by the ease of removing the bark - if the bark comes off without effort, then you can start working;
- wood varnish on water based natural shade or transparent. It is this composition that will best emphasize the texture and advantages of natural wood;
- sandpaper of various grains and holder;
- plane or sander;
- chisel;
- building level;
- roulette;
- hammer and nails;
- screwdriver and screws;
- abrasive fiber.
Manufacturing stages
Stage 1
The dried blank of the future table must be cleared of bark. A chisel or chisel will be useful for this step. The bark must be removed with extreme caution and precision so as not to damage the wood and prevent cracks and splits from appearing. Any soft or rotten areas should also be removed.
Stage 2
After the bark has been removed, the stump must be leveled relative to the horizontal plane. To do this, use a level to prepare a flat surface, and place the base of the future table on it.
If curvature is observed, the imperfections are eliminated using a plane. At the same stage of work, excessively large rhizomes of the stump and all unnecessary parts are sawed off with a hacksaw, the sections from which are then sanded.
Stage 3
The leveled stump is sanded with a disk grinder, especially its horizontal parts. The sides of the stump are also sanded, and hard to reach places processed with coarse sandpaper. This is a rather labor-intensive process that requires a significant amount of time.
Stage 4
Cracks and depressions in the barrel must be cleaned of dirt and debris using a chisel, then sandpaper folded in half (with the working layer facing outward) should be carefully processed from the inside. Remains of wood dust are cleaned with a brush or a construction vacuum cleaner.
Stage 5
To prevent the stump from rotting and ensure air circulation between the table and the floor, furniture legs can be attached to the base from below. The presence of legs will make moving the table more convenient.
You can choose any legs: metal, furniture wheels or special rubberized stands. It is best to attach them using self-tapping screws to the base of the stump; the number is chosen arbitrarily, based on the size of the table.
Stage 6
After installing the legs, we proceed to sheathing the top of the stump. To do this, we put two parallel strips perpendicularly on the sidewalls, and two more rows of holders on top - a total of 6 strips, fastened together with nails. This will be the frame for the tabletop.
Stage 7
We fasten the prepared tabletop boards from below cross bars. The shape of the tabletop can be very diverse: round, rectangular, with rounded corners. A table option with a round or oval tabletop looks more advantageous.
To give this shape, you can use homemade device from thread, pencil and nail: the end of the thread is tied around a pencil, and the tip of the nail is placed in the middle of the tabletop, outlining a circle with a selected radius, after which all excess is sawed off, and the edges and surface of the tabletop are processed with a grinding machine.
Stage 8
Holes and defects in the boards can be decorated with finely chopped shiny stones, filling them with varnish and after drying, sanding them again to smooth the surface.
The finished tabletop is fixed from below to the sheathing with holders on nails or self-tapping screws selected to size.
The finished table is varnished in several layers. After applying the first layer, the product is thoroughly dried and processed with fine-grained sandpaper. This will prevent the varnish from peeling off, and subsequent layers will lay down more evenly.
After removing the dust, apply the second and subsequent layers of varnish without grouting. If desired, after drying last layer can be treated with abrasive fiber - this will remove excess shine and give the surface a matte finish.
Such a creative table will decorate any veranda, especially if surrounded by green bushes or flower beds.
Video - DIY garden table made from a stump
In most modern kitchen sets, the lower modules are installed on adjustable legs - supports and covered with a single tabletop. Using adjustable legs, you can compensate for unevenness and slope of the floor, thereby leveling the overall tabletop covering the lower cabinets. Adjustable ones can withstand significant loads and can be made of plastic or metal, which also perform a decorative function.
Plastic kitchen supports do not have a very attractive appearance, but the leg comes with a special clip with which it is attached to the support. Kitchen set, installed entirely on plastic legs, closes at the bottom decorative base, which can be removed if necessary. If you want to leave the legs open, you should install decorative ones in visible areas. metal legs- supports.
For one lower module up to 800 mm wide, four kitchen supports are enough. Wider and corner cabinets require more furniture legs. Also, if there is a vertical partition in the lower module, it is also advisable to install supports under it.
Regardless of the material, installation of adjustable supports similar to each other. The kitchen leg is attached to the chipboard using four 16 mm self-tapping screws and one central bolt. Before installing the kitchen legs, set all supports to the lowest position, that is, screw them completely.
Turn the bottom module over and start marking. Please note that if you plan to cover the bottom of the kitchen unit with a plinth, then step back 80 - 100 mm along the front edge to secure the legs. This is done for the purpose that when you stand at the desktop, your feet will not rest against the plinth. Where the legs will not be closed with a plinth, move 50 mm away from the edge.
To fix and install one kitchen leg, move 50 mm away from both sides, draw a cross and put a dot at the intersection. Place the kitchen leg on the bottom of the module so that the point is under one of the four holes. The other two holes should be above the lines of the drawn cross. Screw in three screws according to the markings, then screw in the fourth. Do the same with the remaining legs.
Then, when you have installed all the legs on the kitchen unit, start leveling the lower cabinets on the countertop using a level and adjustable supports. Cover the lower modules with a tabletop. Achieve a horizontal position of the countertop by adjusting the outer legs of the kitchen set. Then unscrew the remaining supports so they sit firmly on the floor.
Installing legs on a kitchen set with your own hands is not difficult; it requires care and accuracy.
