How to frame a doorway with additions and cashing. We provide finishing of entrance door slopes. Extensions and platbands: what are they needed for?

Relatively recently, extensions for entrance doors have appeared on the building materials market; with their help, the cladding of a more massive and wider part of the doorway is carried out. Nowadays, extensions are used in almost every installation of a door group and not only the entrance one.

The product is intended to decorate the opening that was formed after the door was installed. They are fully decorated door slopes.

Extensions to the front door are wooden slats that increase the width of the frame if it is smaller than the doorway.

There are several types of planks. It is worth finding out about their characteristics in advance in order to correctly select and carry out cladding of the entrance opening. The installation technology is not complicated. Anyone can master it.

Are they really necessary?

The question of how much trim is needed for doors is largely individual, but often the planks help correct uneven walls and discrepancies between the parameters of the opening and the frame. The cladding allows you to harmoniously combine the entrance door frame with the trim.

The building element is intended for the design of deep slopes. Thanks to them, the design looks complete. It fits harmoniously into the overall interior and complements the design of the apartment.

Extras for entrance doors made in the same color, if possible from the same material as the furniture in the corridor. This nuance plays an important role in the design of a hallway or terrace.

Pros and cons of using

The main advantage of using cladding is that door extensions help to increase the coverage area of ​​the door frame. In addition, the elements are used for the design of entrance openings and doors. With their help, possible unevenness of slopes is masked. The big advantage is that you can make and install an element of the entrance door group yourself.

Among the disadvantages of the design, one can highlight the fact that if the accessory is made from low-quality and inexpensive raw materials, then its service life will be short.

The most common budget option The cladding is made of MDF slats. Since finishing is done on entrance doors, where there are temperature changes and dampness depending on weather changes, the material loses its strength over time and becomes deformed.

Kinds

The main difference between the slats is the raw material from which they are made and the width of the slats themselves.

Entrance door trims have different designs and, accordingly, characteristics. They are divided into 4 types.

Standard without edge

Standard entrance cladding is also called simple addition. This board has raw edges, so the joints must be covered with platbands. During installation, the planks are connected to each other using additional fasteners.

Simple extensions and trim on the front door are considered short-lived, as water vapor can penetrate into them.

Standard with edge

The additional board for the front door of this type has processed edges, which also improves its quality. Moisture penetrates less into such a structure, due to which its service life increases.

Telescopic

The telescopic door trim has an unusual design. It allows installation without additional fasteners.

The panels are easily and reliably joined together using connecting grooves and a tongue; these are the easiest elements to install.

Combined

This front door trim is the most practical and easy to install. Extensions that include platbands in their design are called combined. They do not require major fasteners; all you need to do is adjust the planks to the correct length and secure their grooves.

Material of manufacture

The facing element of the entrance door group is made of the following materials:

• tree;
• metal;

The most common are extensions and trim made from MDF. Next in popularity are wooden and hardware. The cost of facing materials may vary. The most expensive are special planks made from natural wood.

How to install an extension on the front door?

Immediately before installing the panels, it is necessary to preparatory work. First, the walls are cleaned of residues building material. Their surface is leveled using plaster.

Experts recommend using polyurethane foam for minor wall defects. To insulate the entrance opening, polystyrene foam and mineral wool are used. The material is placed under the box, platbands and extensions. This ensures not only heat but also sound insulation. Installation of platbands can be carried out after finishing the walls with wallpaper or paint.

Required Tools

To install the entrance door trim, you will need the following tools:

1. electric jigsaw or hacksaw;
2. level;
3. carpenter's pencil;
4. carpenter's hammer made of wood or rubber.

If you install extensions on the entrance doors yourself, then you need nails, screws and polyurethane foam to secure them.

Type selection and measurement

First, adjust the slats in height. To do this, measure the slopes in the doorway. Most difficult to install entrance panels cause doorways to widen. Here it is important to calculate everything correctly and saw it off in accordance with the size of the slats.

The type of entrance cladding is selected individually. Combined and telescopic extensions are considered the easiest to install. Such planks are best protected from moisture penetration and air currents.

If simple type planks are installed, they must be connected to the middle and edge of the wall using foam and additional fasteners. Neat spacers are installed between the slope and the batten itself and foam is blown into the flat space.

It is much easier to install telescopic extensions. It is enough to bring them to the door frame and secure the grooves. It is not necessary to use additional fastening. The wall jamb can be hidden with specially designed beams or entrance platbands.

Installation

The installation method depends on the type of beams used for cladding. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

• The wall is being prepared and doorjamb. If necessary, they are leveled using plaster or putty.
• Measurements are being taken. The bars are being prepared.
• Installation begins with the installation of 2 end panels. If these are horizontal slats, then attach the upper and lower slats first.
• The top panel is prepared and fixed.
• The strips are installed between the side elements.

A metal entrance door is a little more difficult to install. It does not have factory additional panels or grooves for cladding. Drywall is used to create the frame. Then any type of planks is used for cladding.

Installation of extensions has its own subtleties in operation. For more reliable fastening, you can use sealant. Silicone is applied to the grooves immediately before installation. If there is no special recess on the panels, you can select it using hand router. To do this, a ruler is mounted in the hole and, guided by it, the work is performed. When the beam approaches the doorway, installation can be carried out.

Even a beginner can make accessories on his own. It's about about a simpler type of bars without a border. It is easiest to work with wood, especially since it is suitable for any type of door.

The slats are made from simple planks. When selecting, you need to focus on their sizes in order to prevent an increase in the thickness of the wall. The work consists of competently taking measurements and preparing the planks.

Entrance lining popular. It looks great if the width of the door frame is large enough or, conversely, as narrow as possible. Using planks, you can correct not only unevenness and defects in slopes, but also improve the appearance of the room.

Doorway to the kitchen without a door to the corridor

When renovating small apartments with narrow corridors, they are increasingly abandoning the door to the kitchen. An open entrance allows you to visually increase the space and save space. In this case, a partition remains that performs zoning functions.

In large private houses, a beautifully decorated entrance to the kitchen from the hall or living room can be a whole work of art and interior decoration.

A wide span can be so functional.

After dismantling the door frame, the entrance from the corridor and other adjacent rooms, for example, the dining room or living room, can be decorated with various materials and different shapes. But you need to remember a few important points.

1. Dismantle the door in the gasified kitchen. In this case, a fine may be claimed by the gas service. Here the door is necessary for your own safety. Gas stoves in the kitchen were common in homes old building, in modern apartment buildings Mostly electric ones are installed.
2. Widening the opening is a redevelopment, which entails making changes to the technical documentation. Be sure to coordinate such work with the BTI and other authorized services.

An open doorway is a better idea if there is a corridor between the kitchen and other rooms.

Entrance to the kitchen in Khrushchev

When going out into the living room, you may need not only a powerful, but also more silent hood so as not to interfere with the guests' relaxation.

Examples of the most successful design options

When finishing an open doorway there are practically no restrictions on the choice of materials.

This could be a stone or brick design.

You can finish the span with the same materials as the walls.

Can be used gypsum plaster to create a semblance of stucco.

Here are some solutions on how to design a doorway without a door to the kitchen.

Finished rectangular opening

The most versatile and simple option. After dismantling the door frame, the passage into the kitchen is left in the same shape.

Or they can be highlighted with plastic or wooden panels, covered with wallpaper or decorative plaster. The choice of materials depends on the style of the interior.

The entrance can be framed by narrow built-in display cabinets, as in the photo below.

In the form of an arch

The ceiling, recognizable by its graceful curve, is one of the most popular alternatives to interior doors.

The arch can be symmetrical or irregular in shape. Such unusual shapes can be achieved using plasterboard construction.

How to make an arch with your own hands, watch the video:

More design ideas different materials can be viewed in the photo gallery below.

Photo gallery of ideas and design techniques (30 photos)

In classical styles, stucco molding or decorative wooden inserts and column platbands are suitable for decoration.

Modern design welcomes simplicity in forms and restraint in decorative elements.

The following materials can be used.

• Brick decoration can be done using a material such as gypsum plaster;

• Wood and MDF, chipboard.

Depending on the style, kitchens can be as rough wooden beams, and elegant platbands.

We have already given it as an example above. It allows you to create structures of irregular shapes, with shelves, racks, a bar counter, etc.

These can be curtains with tiebacks or thread curtains.

Kitchen corridor without a door. How to apply?

Good evening, dear forum users!
I'm doing renovations in the hallway and was puzzled by the question of how to design the opening between the kitchen and the hallway?
In the photo you can see on the bottom left (up to the plinth), where there was a Soviet door frame with a door, and on top there was a huge mezzanine for the entire corridor. I tore the whole thing apart and now I’m racking my brains on how to design this span to separate the corridor and kitchen.

P.S. I will change the floor in the hallway, it will start from the linoleum that is in the kitchen.

Bashil, you can, of course, make an opening out of aerated concrete, or bars covered with plasterboard, and frame it with platbands on both sides... or you can not highlight it with anything, just make the same wallpaper in the hallway and kitchen... look at your budget. but I would still make a mezzanine. just a more beautiful option than it was before...for example like this:

Thanks for the answer!
I could have made a mezzanine and the same wallpaper in both the kitchen and the hallway, but the fact is that I’m doing renovations at my mother-in-law’s))) I’ve already bought the wallpaper for the hallway. Accordingly, there will be different wallpaper in the kitchen. It turns out that I have only one option: make a partition at the top and attach bars (or a profile) to the side walls, cover it with plasterboard and cash out. It’s just that I don’t want to cook up these side protrusions for cashing, which will make the passage narrower by 14 cm.

Bashil wrote:
to divide the corridor-kitchen.

Maybe make Arochka?

Vo.V.A. wrote:
Maybe make Arochka?

Looks like the question is different. Phrase

Bashil wrote:
ledges for cashing, which will make the passage narrower by 14 cm.

I would translate it as “withdrawing money from the account (cash out) will make the account smaller. »
There's nothing wrong with that. You have to save money yourself.
The cheapest option is to decorate the border between the kitchen and the corridor with a joint of wallpaper of different types.
You can splurge on wallpaper panels and moldings.
It’s a little more expensive to make an upper insert into the opening. From plasterboard, for example. Reduce circulation a little kitchen air around the apartment.
Should we take a walk further? A reasonable and sufficient opening of 70 centimeters can be created by installing small partitions.
How to decorate it is a matter of budget and taste. Either an arch or a portal made of extensions and platbands.
A very economical version of the portal is also possible, when the extensions are simply glued flat to the wall and only the upper part is covered with a platband from wall to wall.

DOOR.OZ wrote:
when the extensions are simply glued flat to the wall and only the upper part is covered with platband from wall to wall.

Bashil wrote:
I'm doing repairs at my mother-in-law's

DOOR.OZ wrote:
wallpaper panels

They are used to designate the portal.
All the same, the mother-in-law will criticize. So at least it won't be offensive.

Bashil wrote:
I'd like to see a photo to see what it looks like) an acceptable option.

I have no luck saving data. Either flash drives die, or computers die.
I'll try in words.
The proposed method aims to replicate the materials of a conventional door block at a low cost.
The initial dimensions for calculations should be the width of the trim (I would recommend 70, like the casing) and the level of the top casing on the door.
The first size specifies the thickness of the top insert in the kitchen opening. But leave some extra for putty.
The second size should be taken as the general horizon for the platband on the door and ennobled opening.
Based on the calculations, make the upper insert. On its end, the one that faces the floor, glue the extension plate. From it to the floor, lower the two side plates.
Sew the platband to the ends of the top panel in the size from wall to wall, simply cutting it at a right angle.
The equipment you need is simple, not telescopes. With two wrapped ends. There is no need to wallpaper the area under the extensions, except to duck slightly.
Bashil, it’s hard for me to describe things that are obvious to me. I don't know your skills.

How to design an opening between the kitchen and the corridor

Interior doors perform many functions - protective, soundproofing, retain heat and separate rooms from each other. A correctly selected door leaf looks appropriate and aesthetically pleasing. But there is not always an urgent need to install a door.

In some cases, the most successful solution is to leave the opening to the kitchen without a door. It will be easier to make a choice if you know the design methods doorways open type.

The need to arrange open doorways

It’s worth leaving the doorway open and finishing it if you want to:

Open openings form the passage from the kitchen to the living room, hallway or corridor, to the insulated balcony.

When doors are needed

It would be inappropriate to have no door when exiting the kitchen to the bedroom, nursery, bathroom, pantry, or study.

It would be more appropriate to separate and limit any rooms where recreation or personal hygiene of family members is organized from other rooms. In such places a person should feel calm and protected. Open space will prevent this.

If you intend to work at home in a specially equipped room, combining it with a kitchen is not best idea. The noises and smells of cooking food will not allow you to concentrate and will constantly distract you.

You can’t do without a door in the kitchen with a permanent sleeping place. Such a room serves not only as a kitchen, but also as a bedroom.

If more than two adults live in a one-room apartment, it is also better to leave the kitchen door - sometimes privacy is vital.

Note! Combining the kitchen with living rooms promotes the spread of odors of cooking food, fumes and humidity throughout the apartment.

Methods for designing an open doorway

When the decision to leave the doorway open has been made, all that remains is to choose how to design a doorway without a door to the kitchen.

Curtains or drapery

Curtains can partially or completely hide a doorway while decorating it. A curtain made of thick fabric will close the entrance to the room no worse than a door. When the need for it disappears, you can drape it over the door frame, forming beautiful folds.

The canvas is secured from the sides of the passage with special clamps or grabs. They can be the same color as the main fabric or stand out in contrasting colors and original design. The curtain itself is hung on a curtain attached above the doorway.

Note! The curtain should open vertically. Designs with horizontal opening will interfere with the passage to the kitchen.

The choice of color and material depends on the design of the kitchen and adjacent room:

If there is no need to periodically close the opening, choose light, translucent fabrics. They will soften the corners of the doorway, add airiness, and expand the space.

Material color to match window curtains will emphasize the unity of the premises. A curtain, similar in texture and color to the walls, is suitable for rooms overloaded with pieces of furniture and decor.

The curtain can be made of the same fabric as the upholstery or have an identical pattern.

To decorate the opening, not only fabric is used.

The original solution would be:

• filament curtains;
• cords and ropes;
• bamboo tubes;
• beads, beads, stones, shells strung on threads.

Do-it-yourself embroidery or fabric painting will add personality to any decor item.

Blinds

Door blinds come in horizontal and vertical versions. As with curtains, a more convenient alternative to a door would be a vertical shape.

The choice of materials and colors is unlimited:

Any pictures, patterns, photographs are applied to the blinds. You can choose from standard options or order a print of your design.

Important! Any blinds require attention and care. They are more difficult to clean than a regular door.

Wood finishing

Decorating doorways with natural wood is a classic option. You can handle the manufacture and installation of extensions and platbands yourself.

Varnishes and stains will help you save on wood. Using them, you can even make inexpensive wood look like more valuable species.

The main thing is accurate measurements and grinding of workpieces. You can create unique carved patterns with a jigsaw.

Installing the parts is easy:

• door panels are attached to the slopes with self-tapping screws;
• install platbands on nails or screws, additionally glue them;
• The screw heads are puttied and painted over.

To save money, MDF is used instead of wood. The elements are mounted on a frame made of wooden slats or glued depending on the condition of the surface.

Note! MDF boards are less moisture resistant than natural wood.

Polyurethane stucco molding

Polyurethane stucco molding for doorways is not inferior in appearance to fragile and heavy plaster.

It is lightweight, not afraid of water and temperature changes. This stucco molding can be painted. The parts are attached with glue, the joints are puttied and sanded.

Polyurethane products can be used in structures of any shape; moldings can be hard or flexible.

The downside is the need to prepare the surface: in order to glue the stucco molding, it must be flat. The material may shrink over time, forming cracks at the joints.

Important! Polyurethane paints must be water-based. Do not use alcohol solvents, they will damage the material.

Artificial stone and clinker tiles

Framing a door portal with stone is a labor-intensive process and requires certain skills in working with the material. You can achieve even masonry only with a careful, responsible approach.

The stones are fixed to the wall using tile adhesive. The surface should be flat, but not smooth, primed.

The stone is laid flat or creating wavy edges, in one or several rows. Stone is often used to decorate a window opening in a room, a protruding corner or part of a wall.

Material properties suitable for long service in a kitchen environment. The stone is durable and unpretentious.

The brick tiles are laid in the same way. Clinker competes with decorative stone, having similar performance qualities and no less attractive appearance.

Construction stores offer clinker tiles various colors and shapes, special corner parts.

Advice! Before starting to work with stone or clinker tiles, draw a sketch. Lay out the parts on the floor in the desired order, and mark the walls with a pencil.

Plastic panels

Plastic panels can replace wood, brick, stone and any other materials. The designs applied to them imitate any texture and surprise with a variety of colors.

The plastic is light, flexible, easy to install, and suitable for designing arched structures.

Increased humidity in the kitchen will not change the properties of the material. It is easy to care for - just wipe regularly with a damp cloth. But you should protect the plastic from impacts - they will leave dents and scratches.

Decorating an open opening with an arch will visually increase the space, raise the ceiling, and make it easier to move between rooms.

You can arrange an arch by hollowing out the desired shape in the wall, but this option is characterized by the complexity of finishing. Puttying and leveling the doorway frame will take a lot of time.

Attention! Making changes to the design of a load-bearing wall is dangerous due to the appearance of cracks, which may lead to the destruction of the partition.

Arches made of plasterboard are very popular. To create them, frames are first made from a metal profile or wooden beam, which are sheathed with sheets. The finished box is puttied, cracks and marks from self-tapping screws are masked.

Plasterboard structures are characterized by ease of installation, a variety of shapes, and low weight. By installing such an arch in the doorway, you will get a smooth, even surface.

It can be decorated with any materials:

• paint;
• create an unusual texture using decorative plaster;
• finish with stone or clinker tiles;
• cover ceramic tiles or mosaic;
• decorate with wooden slats.

Options for designing an opening with a door

When you don’t want to give up the door, but the classic options don’t suit you, there are non-standard solutions:

Conclusion

Before designing the passage to the kitchen, determine the functions of the room. If it is used by direct purpose, and the apartment is spacious and has enough places for relaxation and privacy, leave the doorway open. You can decorate it by choosing from a large number of options the one most suitable for the interior.

When the door needs to be left, replace the classic leaf original element design. Limited space Sliding doors or accordion doors will compensate, and it is better to equip a spacious room with a wide double door.

Design of a doorway in a kitchen without a door: beauty and savings

Designing a doorway in a kitchen without a door is a popular design technique that implies not only savings, but also an original appearance of the interior, as well as the absence of the need for complex maintenance.

In the case of the kitchen, the latter is especially important - the room in which they cook is filled with steam and food odors for a long time, and there is high humidity.

This makes the room quickly polluted. Just imagine how burdensome it will be to maintain doors if they are made, for example, from valuable wood.

Added to the question of saving money is the question of saving space - why reduce the already small area of ​​​​the kitchen by installing doors in it. The standard swing design will “eat up” a lot of space - professional designers They claim that it is about one square meter.

Whereas a free doorway will visually expand the room and unite functionally separated spaces: for example, a kitchen and a living room or a kitchen and a dining room.

Let's take a closer look at the advantages and disadvantages of a kitchen doorway without a door, what materials can be used, finishing options and some decorating features.

“Doors without doors” - advantages and disadvantages

5 best materials for decorating a kitchen doorway

In deciding how to design a doorway to a kitchen without a door, great importance has a finishing method. Theoretically, almost any material can be used. But practice confirms that the choice of finishing must be consistent with the rest of the interior.

If the design of the opening is not in harmony with the overall design of the room, the perception of the room will be irrevocably damaged.

Another important nuance– do not forget that the kitchen is a kingdom of high humidity and temperature. Plus, the doorway is a high-risk place; it is often subject to friction and impacts. Therefore, it makes more sense to use wear-resistant materials of high strength.

1. Stucco molding

Unfortunately, not very popular, but extremely attractive and original material for finishing. You can use both natural gypsum and polyurethane. The second has a number of advantages - it is not heavy, unlike plaster, it is easy to glue and adheres firmly to any surface. Initially polyurethane stucco It has a snow-white color, but can be easily painted in any chosen shade.

This design is perfect for Venetian style, baroque, rococo, classic or similar stylistic solutions. If selected discreet styles decoration, it is better to refuse stucco.

2. Artificial or natural decorative stone

It is more difficult to work with natural stone than with artificial stone, and its cost is much higher. Artificial ones are also made from natural rocks, but with the addition of various dyes and polymers.

The shades and textures of this material are quite varied - you can choose an option for almost any interior. To decorate a doorway, it is better to select small elements made of stone.

Decorative stone is perfect for a kitchen in Provence, country or oriental style. The design of the doorway can be organized either in the form of smooth borders or using the “torn edge” technique.

It is quite difficult for a non-professional to perform this type of finishing with his own hands - the stone is quite capricious in installation. To ensure strong adhesion of the stone to the surface, the walls are pre-treated with several layers of primer. Each element should be held for a while while gluing for a more durable connection.

The main advantages of finishing decorative stone– durability, highest wear resistance and ease of maintenance. The final result looks incredibly stylish and sophisticated.

3. Plastic panels

An extremely common material due to its practicality and budget. Plastic panels can be selected by color or painted. Panels that imitate the structure of wood or are made to match the wallpaper will help you design a doorway advantageously.

Panels suitable for installation in various colors, shapes and sizes can be purchased ready-made in the form of plastic kits. In this case, installation of the elements can be easily done independently. You don't need any construction skills for this.

Also, plastic panels compare favorably with other types of doorway finishing in that they are easy to maintain and sufficiently resistant to various mechanical influences (if used carefully). An undeniable advantage is the presence of special channels for the ability to camouflage communication cables under panels.

4. Clinker tiles

This type of finish, also called “brick tile,” is trending right now. Previously, designers used it to decorate the external facades of cottages and country houses, but it also looks very stylish indoors.

Externally, the material consists of neat bricks, including corner elements. The latter are quite convenient for finishing the corners of a doorway, including those in the shape of an arch or semi-arch.

A winning option is to decorate the windows of the room with cladding made of the same material. Clinker can be laid in different ways: with a smooth edge, teeth, steps or offset. Typically, laying is carried out by analogy with brickwork - in a running start. This opening looks very impressive.

5. Wood finish

Natural wood is considered a traditional material for decorating a doorway without a door. Wooden platbands look most appropriate in conjunction with a similar design of window openings.

The finish can be selected to suit any stylistic direction. If necessary, paint the parts in the required color and decorate the opening with figured carvings. You can repeat the patterns on the kitchen wall above the table or use other ways to decorate this area.

Wood does not lose its popularity due to its environmental friendliness and relative cheapness. Inexpensive wood can be processed in such a way that it is indistinguishable from expensive species.

Choosing the shape of a doorway - timeless classic or original curve?

The classic shape for the design of a doorway is a regular rectangle. But since the door is not needed, you can play with this moment in a more original way.

At the peak of design popularity arched type. They are universal and easy enough to adapt to any interior style.

Oval, trapezoidal, domed, triangular arch - the choice is yours. Arched structures usually made of plasterboard, under which a metal base is hidden. We should not forget that arches with a rounded or oval arch require partial dismantling of the wall.

For other complex arch shapes, plasterboard is also used. In open openings of this type, you can even organize shelves, rods or other decorative details.

The primary principle that should be followed when choosing the shape of a doorway for a house or apartment is compatibility with the overall style of the room:

Kitchen hallway - 77 photos of ideas for a perfectly combined interior

Using the example of today's article with attached photographic materials, we will consider how to combine rooms that seem to be incompatible in their purpose and functionality.

Space zoning

The first step towards creating a single room from separate ones for their intended purpose square meters- studio apartment, is its competent redevelopment. In addition to the visual division into individual zones of the hallway, kitchen and reception room, the redevelopment also includes purely practical tasks.

You can visually highlight a specific functional area using:

• Stretch ceilings different levels and color design.
• Podium
• A small bar counter.

Thin partitions made of various materials (plasterboard, glass, etc.). They cope with the task perfectly, zoning the kitchen hallway in the room, screens with variable installation configuration (sliding).

Properly located furniture in a common room will also emphasize and highlight its advantages.

In addition, using partitions and cabinets as walls, you can stop or significantly reduce the spread of kitchen odors, noise from staircase, dust from the hallway.

Hallway design with kitchen

The style solution for the interior of a kitchen with an entrance hall is limited only by its area, financial capabilities and imagination.

The main condition when determining the style in which the hallway - kitchen - living room will be decorated is a unified design of the entire room of the studio apartment. But without repeating, unrelated elements and sudden changes in finishing materials, color and stylistic solutions. When decorating a kitchen hallway, more attention should be paid to practical materials. Washable wallpaper, plastic, glass, and for finishing the apron above the table in the kitchen area, tiles are still the best option.

As an element of additional room decor, you can use stretch ceilings with various patterns, applications and lighting.

Give preference to finishing in light colors and mirror surfaces. The absence of darkened corners in the room and reflected sunlight (light from chandeliers, sconces) will visually significantly expand the studio space. Small decorative elements play a very important role in the design of the hallway with the kitchen. Photos and posters on the walls, figurines, original items(masks, soft toys, dishes, etc.).

Furniture for the kitchen combined with the hallway (living room)

Today, thanks to designers and manufacturers, there are a large number of options for modern furniture and kitchen equipment for small apartments. Moreover, the small sizes do not at all affect the comfort of furniture items and the functionality of household appliances. For example, one sliding wardrobe divided into compartments replaces:

• Wardrobe
• A cabinet for storing shoes.
• A stand for umbrellas and a free-standing hanger for outerwear.

In addition, such a wardrobe with mirrored sliding doors can be installed either against the main wall of the hallway or as a dividing partition with the living room. Kitchen appliances and furniture are manufactured using the same principles (multifunctionality) and technologies. For the living room, a good solution would be to use ready-made sofas, armchairs, and transformable tables. In the event that none of the pieces of furniture available for sale are suitable in size, quality, or design for the kitchen, living room and hallway combined in one room, then it can always be made to order. Taking into account all the wishes and requirements of the future owner.

Make sure that the maximum amount of street dirt remains outside the apartment. By placing grates and mats for cleaning shoes at the entrance. If possible, use rugs to duplicate the transitions from one functional area to another.

Do not use as flooring hallway and kitchen, carpet and similar materials. It is best to install a heated floor system in them.

Install in the kitchen a higher power hood than the standard one. indoors, the same area. Make the most of previously hard-to-reach areas of the apartment. Good modern furniture, made to order, this allows.

Install a second light or additional lighting fixtures.

Create a cozy and comfortable home from a one-room studio apartment, it is quite possible for any person. With the help of your own imagination and professional craftsmen in the manufacture of furniture, decoration and interior design.

To give a doorway without a frame completeness, a wide variety of facing materials are used.

Wallpaper

Finishing the portal with liquid or paper, vinyl, non-woven or other types of wallpaper allows you to take a particularly creative approach to design and transform an ordinary interior, making it truly elegant and fashionable.

Laminate

Laminated panels available in a variety of textures, colors and the easy way installations provide an excellent opportunity to form enough interesting design in any style, for example, minimalism, modernism and others.

The photo shows a rectangular doorway without a door, lined with laminate in a modern-style interior.

Plaster

This finish has a unique visual depth and can imitate, for example, marble tiles, various rocks or other textures. Moreover, due to the structural nature, Venetian plaster allows you to create a variety of patterns and effects on the surface.

Wood finishing

Wooden finishing is perfect for any style solution and for cladding an entrance with a threshold. It can differ in its simple appearance or be decorated with curly carvings. Another important advantage of this material- this is its environmental cleanliness.

Stone

It is a very popular finishing option for openings without doors. Artificial or a natural stone, for example, limestone, marble, malachite and many others, will bring notes of the Middle Ages into the atmosphere and form unique design, most often used for rustic country or Provence style.

The photo shows stonework in the design of a doorway without doors in the interior of the hall.

Decorative brick

Charismatic and aesthetic brickwork, both outside and inside the entrance, combined with other less textured planes, creates a rather original contrast, focuses attention and places the necessary accents.

Tile

With the help of clinker tiles, which can be not only straight, but also angular, it is easy to beat and finish doorways, both traditional rectangular in shape, and passages in the form of an arch or semi-arch.

The photo shows a kitchen-living room with a doorway without a door, decorated with dark tiles.

MDF panels

They are quite beautiful, high-quality and at the same time inexpensive finishing for a portal without doors. MDF panels can be easily machined and are easy to install, maintain and operate.

PVC panels

Due to their flexibility, they are ideal for doorways with various shapes, height and width. The plastic coating can have a textured wood pattern or have a wide variety of other colors.

Textile

It is considered a fairly simple design option that will allow you to create a secluded, cozy, homely chamber environment and close the space from view, without cluttering the interior.

The photo shows a kitchen with access to a balcony, decorated with textiles in the form of thick curtains.

How to design an opening without a door?

A properly decorated door portal without a door will not look alien or unthought-out.

Curtains

An opening decorated with a beautifully draped curtain will become a real decoration of the interior with a corresponding design.

Finishing with platbands and additions

Extensions made of plastic, wood or MDF in combination with flat, three-dimensional, rounded or other shaped trims allow you to simply and tastefully decorate the doorway.

The photo shows a doorway without a door with trim wooden platbands and additions in the interior of the kitchen-dining room in Provence style.

Baguette

The decorative molding strip gives the passage a new sound, due to which it fits even more organically into the surrounding space.

Decorative corners

This edging has high practical and aesthetic value. It not only adds a more harmonious appearance to the opening, but also protects against damage and hides some surface imperfections.

The photo shows a loft-style bedroom and a trapezoidal door passage framed in the form of decorative corners.

Mosaic

Due to its charming appearance, mosaic significantly transforms any environment. This artistic decor is unique, practical and unsurpassed in style, which provides the opportunity to create an original design.

Stucco molding

Molded polyurethane or plaster decor on the door slopes, with a combination of graceful lines and light forms with deep relief, gives the portal airy luxury and adds a certain aristocracy to the interior.

Moldings

It is a fairly popular type of final finishing, characterized by simplicity, accessibility and at the same time originality, contributing to the formation of an authentic environment.

The photo shows a door portal without doors, decorated with white moldings in the kitchen.

Sizes and shapes of doorways

The shape of the portal without a door also plays an important role in creating the interior.

Wide

A large doorway allows you to visually expand and enlarge the space of the room, adding airiness and light to it.

High opening to the ceiling

It is a very noticeable and effective detail that orients the interior layout. In addition, a high opening can visually raise the ceiling.

Arched

It provides the opportunity to somewhat soften the angularity of the surrounding space and is a particularly popular form when designing a passage without a door.

Narrow

A non-standard narrow opening will give the room additional height and make the interior much more proportional.

The photo shows the interior of a bathroom with a narrow door portal without doors.

Angular

A portal without doors, located in the corner, is a rather creative solution that gives the environment a unique creative look.

Half-arch

It is a curved design with right and rounded angles. A semi-arch is equally suitable for both wide and narrow portals; it does not visually clutter up the space and does not burden its appearance.

The photo shows semi-arches framed with wenge-colored trim and decorative corners.

Figured

Fancy, asymmetrical designs can have a wide variety of complex shapes or even be supplemented with all sorts of auxiliary details, such as shelves, niches, columns or lighting. Curly open passages undoubtedly become a bright interior element, attracting attention and setting the tone for the entire environment. The most popular material for creating these openings is drywall.

Photo of decorating the opening in the interior of the rooms

Design options for interior passages.

Doorway to the kitchen

To decorate the passage, more practical and easily washable materials are used. In addition, a portal without a door allows you to connect the kitchen with a corridor, living room or dining room and thereby significantly expand the space, unite them and make one comfortable and multifunctional area.

The photo shows a doorway decorated with moldings in the interior of the kitchen-dining room.

Balcony

This design of the balcony block will make the room much lighter and expand usable area. In order for the loggia and the room adjacent to it to be perceived as a single composition, it would be better to decorate them with decor and furniture in the same style.

In the living room and hall

In a small apartment, such as a Khrushchev-era apartment, door panels between the living room and the hallway are often abandoned. This provides the opportunity to create conditional zoning and simultaneously expand these two rooms.

In the corridor and hallway

Here the open passage is often decorated with artificial stone, wood or textured plaster. Also, the slopes of the structure are complemented with overlay panels to match the entrance doors.

To the dressing room

If the dressing room is combined with a fairly small and cramped room, the absence of a door will be an appropriate solution to add freedom to the space.

Photo gallery

A doorway without a door, if properly decorated on both sides, can look very attractive and become an integral element of the design idea and a design highlight for two rooms at once.

WITH outside The design of the entrance door must have a casing that protects mounting clearances(between the frame and the wall) and anchors fixing the door. There is no such structure on the inside of the front door. Therefore, finishing work is required for the internal slopes of the doorway. This can be plaster with further putty, painting or wallpaper. In this case, “wet” and “dirty” types of work are carried out. All this can be avoided! We are ready to offer you a convenient and practical option for finishing the slopes, which will also improve the heat and sound insulation of the entrance area as a whole.

We offer the design of doorway slopes with decorative trims and platbands.

Extensions and trims are elements of decorative finishing of a doorway that give a finished appearance entrance group, where the main element is the front door. It is especially worth noting that the material of the extensions and platbands fully corresponds to the material from which the door panel is made. The color and design of the extensions with platbands also matches the color and design of the panel. The combination of a decorative panel with such finishing of slopes can match other interior items of the room, making your hallway stylish and aesthetically pleasing.

Benefits of extras:- simplicity and ease of installation
- no “dirty” processes during installation
- increasing the level of heat and sound insulation of the door group
- excellent decorative qualities
- use of only high quality materials
- the possibility of decorating the doorway with weather-resistant and water-resistant materials
- high degree of maintainability, the ability to repair only the damaged area
- practicality and durability.

Most often there are two options for decorating the opening with extensions and platbands:

1. Installation of trims and platbands after installation of the door (at the time of completion general repairs premises). You can order the production of extensions and platbands when ordering the front door, and install them later on your own. You can also order from our company the production of extensions and platbands with installation at any time convenient for you.

2. Installation of extensions and platbands simultaneously with the installation of the front door. This option is in demand mainly if the front door is installed in a room where there are no plans to renovate it in the near future.

When ordering extensions and platbands with installation, we offer the original “Quick Slopes” system, which was developed by the engineers of our design bureau in order to connect with the highest quality and reliability steel box entrance door and wooden extensions for decorative finishing of slopes (see the installation diagram in the figure). For normal installation, ensure high quality the junction is very difficult. The company's many years of experience and a team of qualified specialists allow us to responsibly guarantee the high level of work and services we perform!

Internal decorative panel Door frame U-shaped profile, painted in the color of the frame

Mostly all doors that are manufactured in specialized factories are designed for a certain wall thickness. In many cases it is on the order of 70 or 80 mm. But what about the owners of country or ordinary private houses? Their walls are often much thicker than apartment options.

In this case, you can trim the opening with sheets of plasterboard or do it even simpler - install the extension on interior doors. The method is simple and requires significantly less time and effort to implement. Some home owners plaster openings in places where there is no frame. But, nevertheless, the method of installing add-ons is less labor-intensive and more effective. Therefore, you need to carefully figure out how to attach the extension correctly.

What are extras?

The extensions consist of two racks located in a vertical position and one horizontal bar. It is located at the top of the opening. Thus, the finished structure increases the size of the box itself. Among the commonly used materials for making structures, the most popular are fiberboard, solid wood and MDF. They are wear-resistant and affordable in their price range.

Measuring and preparatory work

The installation of the extensions is necessary first of all in order to securely fasten the platbands. Correct fixation of the platbands can be carried out if the products are placed with their end faces towards the plane of the wall. It is best to take measurements when the box is assembled and installed. After this, the actual installation of the accessories is carried out.

Initially you should put ruler onto the box platform and keep it strictly perpendicular to the wall. It is necessary to determine the dimensions of the upper and lower parts of the product. At the same time, the width of one extension in different parts may differ, since the walls are almost always imperfect. All data should be recorded on paper so as not to confuse the product parameters.

Many experienced specialists use a more accurate method. All additions are measured using square and straight slats. The first device is installed in the seat, and the second is applied to the plane of the wall. Where the square intersects with the rail there will be a width indicator. The size of each slope must be carefully checked, since an error can be made at any stage.

After these manipulations, they begin to cut the board. This is easy to do using hand saw. A jigsaw and bench saw also work well, provided you have them.

Installation

Installing extensions on an interior door with your own hands is quite simple. To do this, you need to decide, first of all, on the type of box. They are:

The first option is the simplest. It has everything to reliably install the extensions. The versatility of having a groove is that it allows you to adjust the position of the extension. This device also saves a lot of time. After adjusting the bar, you can immediately attach it to the wall.

Self-tapping installation

The first thing you need to do is drill a countersunk screw. As a rule, MDF boards, from which blanks are most often made, are approximately 10 mm thick. This means that the drill must have a maximum diameter of 9 mm. In order to more accurately and reliably attach the extensions to the interior door, the diameters of the drill and the head of the screws must match.

The screws themselves are chosen to be of such length that they literally extend slightly into the canvas of the box. If the products are too long, the wood will crack. A prerequisite is the use of wood drills. They are characterized by the presence of special needle-shaped protrusions. Such products are capable of accurately centering holes.

When the tool is selected, drill a hole for the self-tapping screw. In this case, you need to choose not a perpendicular direction, but set the drill at an angle. This method will allow you to attach an additional element to the central part of the door frame.

The vertical posts are screwed in first with self-tapping screws. After fixing them, proceed to the installation of the horizontal strip.

Installation on studs

Another very effective way to install a door frame is the method of using nails.

For installation, you will need to drill small holes into which finishing nails will then be driven.

Critically important - drilled holes must be less than the length of the nails!

After this, you need to insert the nails with the sharp side outward, and remove the caps with pliers. Mounting timber is often used for driving nails.

When all fasteners in place, you can install the extensions and carefully nail the product, connecting it to the box.

Installation on foam

Installing additional doors using this principle is several times faster than other methods. The products are installed in place. After this, they need to be wedged from the inside. The surfaces should press against the door frame. The opening can be secured only after thorough cleaning and mandatory wetting of the surface.

Installation of telescopic extensions

This type of product has its own unique advantages.

• It can be tightly fixed in the overall structure.
• The surfaces adhere securely to each other.
• Connecting the components together is quite simple.
• The extensions with this configuration can move either up or down.
• It is possible to move them inside and outside the product.
• The power reserve of the parts is small, but these millimeters allow you to adjust the position of the extensions as accurately as possible and correct mistakes that were made during marking.
• Special “adjustment” grooves make the design convenient and easy to install.

Comes with box

The method is to assemble the entire structure before attaching it to the wall. Both the box and the extensions are assembled into one whole. Additional elements that widen the opening are attached to the door frame. After this, the finished product is fixed.

The following tips will be useful:

• Nails are used exclusively to press additional panels to the door frame. They don't keep it from moving.
• In the process of drilling holes, you can make a crack on the front side of the product and between the slopes. Therefore, all work must be done carefully.

Additional board (extension) for the door frame: purpose, types, installation

If you are installing a door frame and its width is less than the thickness of the wall, this gap must be closed with something. To do this, use extensions on the interior door. We will talk further about what they are, what they look like, what they are like, how to install them.

What is dobor

When installing interior doors, a situation arises when the frame is smaller in width than the thickness of the wall. In such cases, a special board is used, which is attached to the door frame, closing the remaining space. This board is called the addition to the interior door. The names “additional board” and “additional plank” are also found. You can then attach a platband to it, which will close the gap between the extension and the wall.

Extension - a board for expanding the door frame to the thickness of the wall

That is, the door extension is an additional part of the door frame. It is a board of certain sizes, which is joined to the door frame. They place it on one side - opposite to the one into which the door opens. You can also call this board an expander - it reflects its real purpose.

If the wall thickness is more than 140 mm, you have to install a door frame extender - an additional board

There may be some nuances regarding the connection between the fittings. Often the shape of the door frame is specific - with a special relief (protrusions, depressions, roundings). Then you will have to look for a selection specifically from this company, otherwise connecting them will be problematic.

Materials and sizes

Each manufacturer produces a certain set of additional boards, in which the length is fixed - 230-250 cm, the thickness/width varies. For example, there are the following options (thickness, width, length):

Shape, thickness, width may vary

Thickness and width - each factory has its own. Can be 60 mm, 65 mm or 75 mm. In general - any set. What if none of them suits your case? Take a larger width than required, then saw off the excess. What if your opening is wider than all available options? Order the size you need (many manufacturers make to order) or splice two smaller sizes. Another option is to use telescopic platbands. They come with a corner bend, which can cover your width gap.

If the doors are made of solid oak, it makes sense to install the same addition

What materials are interior door trims made from? From the same as platbands:

• wood;

MDF and chipboard can be covered with veneer and laminated. Wooden ones can be treated or untreated. Select the material and color for the door frame. And this is another reason to buy from the same manufacturer - even if the color/texture name is the same, there is no guarantee that they will actually be the same.

Types of additions

There are two types of additional board:

• With straight edges. An ordinary board that is attached end-to-end to the box. May be:
  • with decorative edge;
  • without decorative edge.

  

  Types of extensions for interior doors: telescopic on the left, regular on the right

  The addition to an interior door with straight edges is the most common board. In this case, it needs to be selected only by color and size. The extension is pressed against the box and secured with screws installed diagonally. One of the ends of the additional strip can be processed. This is necessary if the casing can be displaced.

  

  Installation of an extension with smooth edges (not telescopic)

  It is not very convenient to attach this type of extension. You have to think about how not to split the plank and how to close the screw heads. However, you don’t have to select the shape of the grooves/protrusions, which is far from simple and ties you to only one manufacturer.

  

  If there are protrusions, grooves, roundings, you need an extension for the interior door from the same company as the frame

  The telescopic door panel has pre-formed grooves. From a docking point of view, this is very convenient option: we drove the protrusion into the groove, tapped it until it completely coincided, and the entire installation was completed. But only if the match is perfect. How else is telescopic extension convenient? You can install it telescopic frame(if it fits).

  How to install extensions on an interior door

  In this paragraph we will talk about ordinary planks - with straight ends. Sold in lengths of 2100-2300 mm. Three strips are needed for one door: One on the right and left, and a piece from the third will go to the upper part. If you install several doors at the same time and they are the same color, one strip will go to the two “tops”.

  

  How to attach fittings to an interior door

  The width and length of the planks are usually larger than necessary, so they will have to be trimmed. What instrument? With what you have. A jujube that cuts DMF, chipboard or wood is suitable. To decorate the corners, you may need a miter box (if you are going to join the box (and extensions) at 45°. It is also convenient to use in order not to “fill up” the cut and make it strictly perpendicular.

  We take measurements and make blanks

  Before installing the extensions on the interior door, you need to find out the exact dimensions of the expansion strips. To do this, install a door frame in the doorway and secure it. Draw an opening on the plan; it will be easier to write the dimensions. Next, take a tape measure and a level, measure the size of the extensions that you need.

  The width of the extension is determined as follows: insert the measuring tape of the tape measure into the groove until it stops. We apply a level to the wall and determine the required width at the intersection with the tape measure. We take measurements at six points: two on each side. If the wall has unequal thickness, we take the width of the extension according to the largest number.

  

  Now we cut out the sizes we need from standard planks. Make marks with a pencil - on light strips a simple pencil is clearly visible, on dark ones you can use a white one. We try on the cut strips in the opening; if necessary, we trim them a little.

  We collect

  Before placing the extensions on the interior door, they must be connected to each other. We lay out the cut out additional strips on the floor in the form of the letter “P”. If they have a processed edge, lay them out so that the edge is on one side. The planks will need to be connected to each other. If they are made from MDF or chipboard, you will need to pre-drill holes in the top rail.

  

  Preparing for assembly

  To do this, it is better to take a square (ideally a carpenter's square, but an ordinary school one will do). We draw a line on the plank that marks the middle of the thickness of the plank. If the thickness of the additional board is 10 mm, the line runs at a distance of 5 mm from the edge. If the plank is 15 mm thick - at a distance of 7.5 mm. We put two points on this line and then drill holes. Diameter - 1 mm less than the diameter of the screws.

  

  We complete the assembly of the door frame

  Next, the holes must be transferred to long strips. To do this, we join them and align the edges. Using a drill, we transfer the marks to the end of the plank, then deepen it to the required length (along the length of the self-tapping screw). Having made the holes, we join the planks and tighten the fasteners. The extension to the interior door is half assembled. But don't rush to attach the second bar. You need to try on what has already been assembled “in place.”

  

  Fitting and trimming

  We put the assembled L-shaped part in place, driving the strips into the groove in the door frame. The upper jumper turned out to be larger (this is how we measured it). Take a pencil and put a mark where the groove begins. Try to be precise as this is important. You don't have to cut off the excess. We simply draw a line along the mark and make marks on it, then drill holes. After assembly, the letter “P” is obtained. We have assembled the extension for the interior door, now we need to install and secure it.

  Installation in a door frame

  Now the addition can be installed. Check the opening first. If the doors were placed on foam, it may block the groove. We cut off the excess so that the planks fit freely. Insert the U-shaped structure into the groove, tapping the end with your palm. We start from the top, then to the sides.

  

  We put it in place, having first removed the excess polyurethane foam.

  Let's take it masking tape, we use it to fix the planks to the walls. If in some places the extension on the interior door does not fit tightly to the frame (there is a gap), we remove this gap with the help of pads. You can use mounting wedges for this. If you don't have them, make them from foam plastic. You just need to set the bar level; dense foam plastic is enough for this purpose.

  Fastening the additional box

  You also need to level the extension to the interior door. You shouldn’t rely on your eye; use a level. Using a level and wedges, we remove all protrusions and blockages. During the process, we fix the aligned areas with masking tape. The distance between the tacks is 40-50 cm. One at the top and bottom (stepping back about 10 cm), and then at equal intervals.

  

  How to attach the extensions: during the installation process

  Next, using low expansion polyurethane foam, we fill the space between the wall and the additional strip with it. Before use, read the instructions on the cylinder. It may be better to moisten the surfaces. In any case, the polyurethane foam must be laid in stages, otherwise it may bend the extension strips. Everything will have to be torn off, cleaned and foamed again.

  So, first we apply foam deep into the gap. Not much, one strip. At the same time, we make strips across the entire width near the “tacks” (an example of applying foam to the door trim is in the photo above on the right). The foam in the area of ​​the tacks will give the bar stability, the strip in the far part - near the joint - will press the extension to the groove, but will not bend the bar.

  We leave the foam on the side strips to polymerize while we fill the gap from above. If it is as big as in the photo, there is no point in transferring a lot of foam. It’s easier to cut out a “bookmark” from foam plastic and place a wooden block of a suitable size. It is slightly smaller in size than the free space. There should be a gap of at least 1 cm on all sides. But too large gaps are not needed.

  

  How to install extensions on an interior door: filling the top gap

  • We place small pieces of polystyrene foam 1 cm or so thick under the embedded part.
  • Apply a layer of foam with a snake back wall(if there is one).
  • We install a foundation block and fill the gaps around the perimeter with foam. Again, not too much so that the foam extension bar does not bend downwards.
  • If necessary, install a “front” bar (bottom left in the photo above). If the width of the block is sufficient, we skip this step.
  • We level the position of the additional strip using a building level and secure it with masking tape.

  After the first layer of foam has hardened (the time is indicated on the can), we fill the remaining space. If the extension to the interior door has a significant width, it is possible (and better) to apply foam in two stages. But each time you need to wait for the polymerization time. After that, all that remains is to install the platbands.

  How to attach the extension to the door frame if it is thicker than the selected quarter

  Often the extra is thicker than the quarter selected in the box. What to do then? How to make sure that the extension rests without cracks and holds tightly? There is a simple way - drill holes diagonally, screw in self-tapping screws, then close the holes with matching plugs. Here everything is more or less clear, but not very beautiful - the stubs are still visible.

  There is another way. Need drywall hangers. Only they should be the strongest and thickest. We separate the perforated parts of the tape from the hangers. Each one makes two pieces. You will also need small screws (fleas). We screw the perforated tapes onto the door frame around the perimeter - at the corners at a distance of 10-15 cm, also at the bottom, and in height at a distance of 40-50 cm.

  

  How to secure the addition

  We screw in the screws at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the edge of the box (middle photo). One self-tapping screw per piece of metal tape is enough. When you install the door frame, the tape will stick out. These strips are thin, so even the smallest gap will not be a problem. If the extension to the interior door is the same width, simply insert it. Due to their elasticity, the plates press it tightly.

  

  How to install extensions if they are thicker than a quarter

  If the extension is wider, first we bend them to the front part, then return them back. Due to the fact that they are not fixed at the edge, they bend and become like an arc.

  

  This is how it can work out - without the slightest gap

  Now we insert additional strips, placing them between the plates and the groove. They will press the bar tightly. The cracks will not be visible even upon closer inspection.

  How to install extensions: installation tricks

  

  You can install extensions for interior doors yourself. The materials needed for this are inexpensive, and necessary tools Even a novice home craftsman will find them.

  Accessories for interior doors: what they look like and what they are needed for

  Extensions (additional boards) are wooden planks or MDF panels that cover door slopes. Such slopes are formed if the thickness of the wall is greater than the width of the door frame. As a result, the box does not cover the entire end of the wall and bare concrete or broken bricks are visible. Sometimes this area is plastered, covered with wallpaper, covered with plastic, but it is easier, faster and more aesthetically pleasing to install extensions.

  

  Design of a door block using extensions

  Unlike ordinary slopes, additional boards seem to continue the missing width of the box itself, forming a single structure with it. In order not to make a mistake with the tone, the additions are purchased simultaneously with the door leaf and cash.

  Benefits of use

  • Right established fees they look presentable and, depending on the overall style decision, bring an element of wealth and luxury or restraint and solidity to the interior.
  • The extensions are attached simply and quickly, which saves time, effort and money.
  • During finishing works the door block does not come into contact with wet solutions, which prevents it from getting wet and deteriorating. The service life of the door increases.

  

  The finished design looks beautiful and modern

  You can make the extensions yourself or buy ready-made ones. The store will offer additional trim strips in standard sizes:

  • length - 2.1 m;
  • width - 7–25 cm;
  • thickness - 6–30 mm.

  To calculate the width of the additional strip, add the depth of the groove in the box to the width of the slope, or subtract the width of the box from the thickness of the wall, taking into account the groove.

  With particularly thick walls, the width of the extension can reach 40 cm or more, but such planks are made to order. The thickness of the additional strip should not exceed the width of the groove in the door frame.

  Based design features, additional strips are divided into:

  • ordinary;
  • ordinary with edged ends;
  • telescopic.

  The simplest addition is a straight strip of fiberboard (MDF) or laminate without a facing edge. Many craftsmen believe that gluing facing edges to the ends is a waste of time and money. After all, one end fits snugly against the door frame, and the second will be covered with a platband. But in this case, the installation must be done with special care, because a deviation of even a couple of millimeters will give away a novice master: the gray untreated edge will be striking.

  

  The simplest addition is a regular bar

  If the end of the trim is previously covered with an edge tape matched tone to tone, minor flaws will be invisible. The edge itself costs a penny, and you can stick it on in a few minutes using a regular iron. This method is also preferable because edging the ends prevents the MDF board from swelling under the influence of moisture. This is especially true for door units in kitchens and bathrooms.

  

  A more advanced additional strip is distinguished by the presence of an edge at the ends

  Most complex design at the telescopic accessory. Its feature is the presence of special grooves that allow installation without the use of screws and nails. Moreover, it is almost impossible to miss: the extension fits perfectly with the box and trim. The width of the extension is adjusted by the depth of the groove. To make a telescopic extension yourself, you will need certain skills and a special tool. It's easier to buy ready-made planks.

  

  The telescopic door panel has special recesses

  Required tools and materials

  When installing extensions, a minimum set of tools is used:

  • level;
  • roulette;
  • pencil;
  • saw or jigsaw;
  • plane;
  • hammer;
  • sharp knife.
  • polyurethane foam;
  • fasteners (screws, nails or “liquid nails”);
  • additional strips.

  As a rule, extensions are purchased together with the door leaf, but if the doors are not going to be replaced, but only plan to close the slopes, for the manufacture of extensions they use:

  • wooden planks;
  • pieces of MDF;
  • long pieces of chipboard;
  • plastic.

  If natural wood is used, it is pre-treated with antiseptic impregnations to extend its service life.

  Homemade panels made from regular MDF will differ from factory ones, since in industrial designs the interior between two thin fiberboards is filled with cellular material.

  Chipboards are inferior to wood and MDF in terms of appearance and durability, but chipboard additions can be used indoors.

  Plastic is rarely used as a material for making accessories. And if it is still used, then especially durable, metal-reinforced PVC panels are selected.

  

  Extensions can be made from natural wood, chipboard, MDF panels or plastic

  Installation of additional strips

  Installation in groove

  If you plan to use extensions, then it is better to buy a door frame with a special groove. The presence of a groove not only speeds up the installation process, but also allows you to extend/retract the additional strip into the frame by a few millimeters, which increases the accuracy of installation.

  It is assumed that by the time the extensions are installed, the door frame is already secured in the doorway. Therefore, first measure the distance from the door frame to the edge of the wall. All slopes are measured separately and each at a minimum of four points. As a rule, these indicators differ: even if the box is installed strictly vertically, the wall itself may be uneven.

  

  It is convenient to take measurements using a construction square

  

  Additional strips are purchased with a margin of width, and precise adjustments are made during the installation process

  

  Design of a door block using conventional fittings

  

  When installing telescopic extensions, the “tenon and groove” method is used.

  

  The top panel lies on the side panels at a right angle

  

  The gap between the wall and the extension is filled with foam

  

  The use of foam during installation allows you to do without nails and screws

  Installation without groove

  If there is no special groove in the door frame, the extensions are attached end-to-end. Such installation requires very precise (up to a millimeter) measurements, careful adjustment of additional strips and special care during installation.

  1. Measure the width of the slopes using the same method as when installing extensions in the groove.
  2. Trim the additional strips to the required size. If there are extra millimeters left after sawing, they are cut off with a plane.
  3. Edge tape is glued to the resulting sections. To do this, the edge is ironed with a hot iron, as a result of which the glue on the back side melts and the tape is firmly attached to the bar.

  

  The edge is glued using an iron

  

  Nails are hammered into the end of the extension and the heads are bitten off

  

  After installing the extensions, the nails are not visible

  Installation of platbands

  After the extensions are installed and the mounting foam has dried, the trims are attached.

  Measure the height of the side strips. To do this, add the width of the upper casing to the height of the doorway.

  

  The length of the vertical casing is calculated taking into account the width of the horizontal

  

  A miter box will help you cut the casing at an angle of exactly 45 degrees.

  

  Marking is best done on site

  

  The ends of the platband are filed in a mirror image

  

  It is advisable to bite off the heads of the nails. So they will be almost invisible

  If self-tapping screws are used instead of nails, then first drill a hole into which the head will sink. Then they are screwed in and the caps are closed with special plastic plugs.

  At the bottom, the platbands reach the floor. No gap is left for the baseboard.

  

  The plinth is only adjacent to the platband

  Video: How to install extensions and platbands with a capital with your own hands

  Installing extensions for interior doors yourself is not difficult, although the process cannot be called quick. But if everything is done correctly, the new door block will become the main decoration of the room.

  Installation of door trim and trim

  Why was this done? When we place an additional amount, the cash is inserted into it. And we can adjust the distance within this pass. About one and a half centimeters.

  

  Now, if for example, this distance is not 8 centimeters, like here. And there from 5 to 15 millimeters, we can cash out immediately without additional charges. This box is certainly not telescopic. This door has been installed for a long time. This simple box. In general, telescopic boxes contain passes here. Immediately so that the cash can be mounted there.

  

  Where do I start installing the addition. First I saw off to height. First I end up at the bottom, then I make a mark here stationery knife and sawed it off 1 millimeter shorter.

  

  Then, I take a square and measure this distance from the box to the edge. And add more depth to the groove. In this case it is 1 centimeter. And I make markings on the reverse side. Here's the line.

  

  Well, here we need to take into account that you need to saw off from the side where it will be inserted into the box. Because this region cannot be spoiled. Well, here I expect the additional strip to be about a couple of millimeters less than the plane of the wall itself. Because it doesn't matter here. I can adjust these 2-3, even 5 millimeters with this cashing spike. If there are ordinary additional strips, then on the contrary, I make the width of the additional strip 1 millimeter larger. For what? So that there is enough cash in any case. And you need to measure. The walls are not always level, so I measure at several points. Well, at about 4. Up, somewhere here and down.

  

  If the wall is approximately flat, you can do it at 3 points. And thus I adjust the left and right additional strips. Then I mount the top one on top of them, directly on them. I saw off the whole thing with a jigsaw. You can use a circular saw to cut some parquet or a mini-circular saw. I mark the top bar like this.

  

  Here I place it like this, so that this edge of it is before the beginning of the groove. Here I also mark, right in the groove. Just a knife and that's it. Then I turn it over and put it in like this. And here we make marks as if in width. Because there are different left and right edges. This is how we make marks. Here and here. Like this.

  

  And then I draw and cut.

  Installation of the extension

  So, now that all our inlaid planks are prepared, sawed off, we install them in place.

  This is where the plane coincides. I check it with my fingers.

  

  So, here is a right angle and up to the groove. This is what we get.

  

  Like this. Why do we need to do this here? So that when we insert cash, nothing sticks out here or gets in the way. And this corner will tighten up, and that’s how it will be. Here he is.

  

  It should be. This plane also coincides. Here she is. Here too. Everything matches.

  

  In the case when, for example, a gap forms in this corner. Well, there is no foam there, for example, to rest against. This is where I drill and screw in screws. They seem to be a stop, and they prop up this entire corner. That's all. Now we will mount them. To do this, first I will wet this thing so that the foam will move away better. It expands more evenly.

  

  Because foam expands when exposed to moisture. So, let's take the foam. And with these cakes I go through the entire perimeter.

  

  Now I take the wide masking tape from me. And I fix the gain. I make sure that there is a right angle.

  

  And so on around the entire perimeter. This is how I recorded it all. After about one hour, you can already withdraw everything and put it in cash. I will also do the same procedure on this side. From the edge and from above. That's it, the supplies will be ready. This fastening is quite sufficient. There is no load here. No mechanical fastening is required here. All this stuff is ready. You can say it will freeze now and that’s it. Propenil, fixed it.

  

  Why do I do it with dots like this and not all over? Two reasons. Firstly, saving foam. Secondly, it is a guarantee that the extensions will not be squeezed out by an arc. Because the foam has room to expand into free space. That's all. The selection is done. This is done briefly within 10-15 minutes. Now I'll do some additional work on the other door. During this time, the foam will cool down and you can start cashing out.

  Cashing installation

  Our selection has frozen. I trimmed the foam and removed the tape. Now I will bet cash. But I will place it here at an angle of 45 degrees.

  

  In general, telescopic cashers are installed, as a rule, cut like this at a right angle here. And from above the cash goes here, like this.

  

  But, since this door has cashing already installed like this. This means that you need to do the same on this side too. How to mark. So I take it and put a half-mark here with a knife. Like this. That's it, I'll cut it here and here.

  

  I put the top one first. Then I also place the vertical ones overlapping like this. This is how I put it and make a mark. This is how she stands, for example. And I did it again.

  

  So once again I put a mark. Here she is, you can barely see her. And I cut everything off. First, of course, you need to trim the bottom, and then I applied liquid nails here on this edge. Right here. Here on this road edge, like this.

  

  Here, here and along the entire length. And I'll slam her. Because if you glue the entire groove. This glue will fill everything, and it will be almost impossible to remove it. It’s already tight there and you just need to fix it a little. You can apply glue here. Directly on the wall, several points. It would be enough.

  

  We put everything in. Maybe a little between them.

  

  We install everything.

  

  So, this is what we got in the end. This is the corner.

  

  Here you can tint it with a pencil so that the seam is not visible. It won't rush into the gas too much. And here it is, that's all. Everything is clear and beautiful. I’ll show you now how to do the markings. Here I put it, the knife like this.

  

  All. There is a mark. Now we take the mark like this, here. And we hold the knife at a right angle and move it. That's it, now you need to cut it diagonally. That's it, it goes to trimming. The truth here is that because there is a groove, it becomes crooked. I'm just placing a piece of wood here to the thickness of this distance.

  

  I put it here and it sits evenly. And I saw off.

  Well, this is what we got in the end. Such a bonus. Black, hard to see, well, nothing. Now I'll show you up close.

  

  Everything is tight, everything is smooth, no cracks. This is the node. That's it, the door is absolutely ready.

  All rights to the video belong to: Roman Zaitsev

  We install door panels in different ways

  

  Extensions, or additional boards, are installed in the frame of the door if the width of the door frame (jamb, “jamb”) is less than the thickness of the wall in which the door is installed. Extensions play not only an aesthetic role, covering uneven and easily dirty slopes (if you are interested in other methods of finishing slopes, read about them here). They, together with the platbands, also strengthen the door and prevent it from warping. Do-it-yourself installation of extensions is possible both when installing a new door and on an existing door. We will look at the most common cases.

  Additional boards can be made independently, from a flat board, edged or tongue-and-groove, for thick walls. For very thick or damp walls or backing boards, waterproof BS plywood (aircraft plywood) covered with a decorative self-adhesive film is very suitable: BS plywood does not delaminate or crack during fine processing of the edges and does not warp from moisture.

  

  Door frame with extensions. The mustard color indicates the lining.

  However, most often it turns out to be cheaper and easier to use ready-made additional MDF boards with a decorative coating. The standard dimensions of factory-made extensions are in the range of 80 – 550 mm. For cases where it is necessary to make stacked extensions on thick walls, MDF extensions with a tongue-and-groove lock are produced.

  According to standard technology, the extensions are installed in a special recess on inside door frame - a quarter. However, when installing extensions on an already standing door, it is permissible to use attached extensions (adjacent to the door frame) and underlays (slipped under it).

  Attached extensions are recommended to be used only in dry rooms with moderate temperatures and in cases where the door is made of very high quality or may lose value due to alteration (for example, if the door is an antique item or a museum exhibit).

  If the door is slanted

  In case the door jamb is skewed and the deviation top bar from the horizontal is more than 5% of its length, and the door leaf is fitted to an oblique frame; installation of additional parts without altering the door is not recommended. The door frame itself does not warp; its distortion indicates structural defects, without correction of which the additions will not immediately look good, and subsequently they will warp and split.

  Tools and accessories

  To install door panels you will need some additional tool: a manual wood milling machine, a manual circular (parquet) saw and a clamp with a soft bed frame. The clamp is most needed so that, by pressing the saw against the stool with the disc up, you can get a convenient mini-circular saw. You can tighten the clamp softly by sequentially putting a heat-shrinkable tube on it and heating it over a gas burner at a distance of 0.4 - 0.5 m in 3-4 layers.

  The accessories you will need are 3-4 stools of the same height and not wobbly, 4-5 wooden planks approximately 30x30 or 40x40 mm, a dozen wedges from the same strip and several strips (you can waste) of ordinary packing plywood or plasterboard.

  Door installation process

  Knocking out the base plane

  In a doorway prepared for installation of extensions, you must immediately beat off reference plane, and mark her mark on the floor with a pencil. This is exactly done using the Pythagorean triangle method (a right triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5; the “magic triangle”). Let's give an explanation of how to do this in the figure:

  

  • We consider half the width of the doorway at the bottom to be equal to three basic lengths - 3l. If, for example, the width of the opening is 60 cm, then half of it is 30 cm, and the base length (l) is 10 cm.
  • We make two marks from the corners of the opening with a cord 5l long. From their intersection at point B to point O (the middle of the opening) there should be 4l. In this case, the OB line will be exactly perpendicular to the plane of the opening, and all measurements can be taken horizontally from it; a plumb line will give the required vertical accuracy.

  Note: If you have the opportunity to use a laser base surface projector, then the described procedure is not necessary. But it will not be possible to achieve the required accuracy with the help of a carpenter's or plumber's large square: the error will be greater than the size of the gap between the door leaf and the door frame.

  What to do if the walls are sloped

  When checking the verticality of the walls, it may turn out that they have a slope, positive or negative. If the slope does not exceed 5 mm along the height of the door, it can be eliminated on the surface under the casing with plaster. If it’s more, there’s nothing you can do; when sawing additional boards to size, you’ll also have to cut them into a wedge.

  Foam blowing

  After installing the additions, the cracks are filled with polyurethane foam before plastering. When the foam hardens, it expands and creates quite significant pressure. To prevent this from affecting the finished door frame, you must follow the following rules:

  1. Do not remove the leveling wedges until the foam has completely hardened.
  2. Also, do not remove the spacer bars; if they were not previously needed, install them with friction, but not tightly. Spacer strips should support the extensions, and not push them apart.
  3. Blow in with foam using a uniform movement around the perimeter in 3-4 steps; each subsequent one - after the previous one has completely hardened.
  4. There should be some space left from the outer edge of the foam to the edge of the slope. If you see the next layer of foam coming out, stop blowing. “Re-plastering” later is better than “blowing out” now.

  

  Immediately with the box

  The most technologically simple case is to install door trims yourself when installing a new door along with the door frame. This operation is performed in the following order:

  • We place the door jamb on the stools with the inner (opposite to the hinges) side up.
  • We align the corners to rectangularity, checking with the diagonals: they should be of equal length. To do this, temporarily nail the bottom with small nails. wooden plank length equal to the length of the top door strip.
  • If the jamb does not have a quarter for additional finishing, we select a quarter with a milling machine. The depth of the quarter should be equal to the thickness of the additional board, and its width should be equal to the depth.

  Example: additional board – 16 mm thick (standard MDF thickness). You need to choose a quarter 16X16 mm.

  • Along the perimeter of the door frame we attach to outside strips of plywood or drywall so that they protrude upward to the width of the additional board. A continuous frame is not needed; two scraps are enough for the top bar and 3-4 for the sides. We nail the plywood with nails; The drywall will have to be secured with self-tapping screws.
  • We cut the extensions to size. The top trim strip should lie between the side ones, so we cut it to the size of the top quarter, and the side strips to the size of the sides of the box.
  • Apply liquid nails or any wood mounting adhesive to both edges of the quarter.
  • We insert the additional boards into place and wait for the glue to set.
  • We remove the temporary bottom strip that kept the extensions from falling out of the plywood and put the door frame in place.
  • Align the box with the base plane.
  • We align the box width using wooden spacers; We check the verticality of the sidewalls with a plumb line.
  • By knocking wedges under the sidewalls, we achieve horizontality of the upper door strip.
  • We fill the cracks with foam and plaster them flush with the wall surface.
  • We nail the baseboards, cut them to size and glue them liquid nails platbands - the door with extensions is ready.

  Finished door and straight slopes

  In this case, in order to facilitate the installation of the extensions, you need to prepare in advance a dozen or so thin, 3-4 mm thick, wedges from waste plywood. After that:

  1. We knock the plaster off the slopes and check if there is a quarter on the door frame. If yes, then all that remains is to select additional boards according to thickness.
  2. We cut the extensions to size, but not in the same way as described above: the top board will now fit the size of the box at the top; side ones - the size of the side quarters.
  3. We apply liquid nails to the inner edge of the side panels and insert them into place. If you can reach a quarter, it is better to apply glue to it.
  4. We adjust the height of the extensions using wedges from below, as described.
  5. We insert one by one spacer strips, pre-cut to the width of the doorway, and support the extensions on the side of the slope with thin wedges so that they do not fall out. We check the verticality of the extensions with a plumb line; better - two at once, suspended in advance.
  6. Apply glue not to the tops of the side panels, but to the inner edge of the top panel board (or a quarter), and lay the top panel board.
  7. After the glue hardens, blow it with foam and decorate it as described.

  

  If there is no quarter and with inclined walls

  If the door frame is without a quarter, then there are two options:

  • Reverse quarter. Using a milling machine, we remove a quarter of the extensions, 10-15 mm wide and half the thickness of the extensions. For “not very” sloping walls, this option is convenient because the quarter of the extension can be made oblique in width, and such extension will hold up no worse than a “normal” one.
  • If the walls are brick, then you can knock out a groove in the slope under the door frame and install lining. This option is convenient for those who do rough work with a lot of effort better than light but fine work.

  In both cases, the extensions are installed using auxiliary thin wedges, as already described.

  Slopes with slope

  If the slopes of the doorway are sloping (widening opening), then, regardless of new door or an existing one, add-ons need to be installed when standing door. The fact is that when installing direct extensions, you will end up with a very wide gap. After blowing with foam, there will be a space behind the casing where the plaster lies on the foam. Sooner or later, cracks and/or gaps will form there.

  Therefore, before installing extensions in openings with inclined slopes, the inner edge of the extensions must be reduced along the length to a wedge, as marked in the figure with a red circle. After cutting to size, the extensions themselves will take the shape of a trapezoid. Otherwise, the installation of add-ons in this case has no special features.

  Interior doors

  As a rule, extensions are installed on the side opposite to the door hinges. But when installing interior door extensions, there may be a case when they will have to be installed on the hinge side. If so, then you need to first check whether the additions will not interfere with the opening of the door.

  If, when the door is completely open, there remains a gap between its edge and the edge of the door frame equal to the thickness of the trim with a margin of 2-3 mm, there is no problem: we install the trim using any of the methods described above. If the edge of the door is adjacent to the edge of the frame, you need to install backing boards, having first knocked down the plaster from the slopes. This should not be neglected: just 1.5 mm of “pressing” the sash to the door will eat up 10 degrees of its opening angle, not to mention the fact that the door will soon be damaged.

  ABOUT full cycle Read about interior door installation here.

  Steel doors

  Extensions on steel doors can only be installed as underlays. There is a nuance here: along the length of the extensions, along their inner DECORATIVE side, at a distance of 10-12 mm from the edge, you need to use a circular saw to select a groove with a depth of a third of the thickness of the extension and a width equal to the thickness of the corner from which the door frame is welded plus 1 mm. It is in this groove, when the edge of the steel door frame fits into it, that the frame will hold the extension with itself.

  Even more information about the nuances of installing entrance doors can be found at the link.

  Stacked accessories

  When covering walls MDF panels, laminate, etc. The door frame can be assembled using pieces of sheathing material, longitudinal or transverse. But technologically, such an operation already relates to the technology of wall cladding, and not the installation of add-ons.