How to cover a house made of timber with bricks. Tricks for insulating the walls of a house with facing bricks Insulating wooden houses lined with bricks

Many after they build wooden house, cover it with bricks. This allows you to provide a home extra warmth and make it appearance more attractive. When facing with brick, a house can retain heat several times better. This also applies to old private houses that are built of wood.

Brick cladding wooden houses Quite a smart and competent move. It’s so difficult to do this, but you always need to follow some rules:

1. Before you start laying bricks, you should insulate wooden structure. Best to use sheet material, fortunately it's on now construction market it is widespread. Before lining, it is also worth treating the wooden structure with an antifungal solution. It is necessary to process two days in a row.
2. For brickwork it is necessary to pour the foundation. Its width will be approximately 25–30 centimeters. The usual blind area in in this case is not suitable, since the wall may simply collapse.
3. The finished foundation must be insulated with a double or triple strip of roofing felt. In this case, it is very important to ensure that the strip protrudes from both sides of the masonry by 5–8 centimeters.
4. Now you can start laying the insulation. It is best if it is laid in two rows, since the layers will overlap each other. In this case, the appearance of cracks can be avoided.
5. Next comes the manufacture of the base. The first row of brickwork is laid dry.
6. Before starting masonry, you need to select a brand of brick and calculate its quantity. Most often, simple sand-lime brick or facing. The brick needs to be such that there are no chips on it. Uniform color and a loud knock when struck means that the brick is made in accordance with the technology.
7. Laying is done using the usual method. To prepare the solution you will need cement and sand. The ratio may vary. It all depends on the brand of cement. Regarding quantity required water, then it is selected empirically. The most important thing is that the solution is not too fluid. Laying takes more than one day. It should be protected from rain. For this, ordinary polyethylene film is used.
8. The cladding often retreats from the wall at a distance of approximately 6 centimeters. The connection between the wall and the masonry is carried out using nails. Sometimes knitted reinforcement is used. Concrete lintels are used for openings.

Insulation of brick walls

Insulation of brick walls is carried out using two methods. They can be insulated from the outside or from the inside. In any case, both methods are very effective and have become widespread. Both methods allow you to save as much heat in the house as could be saved with only two meters of brickwork.

It’s worth starting with the method of insulating from the inside. This method is optimal and suitable for all types and types of houses.

Insulation of walls from the inside

The sequence of actions when using this method:

• a wooden or metal carcass. Its height is determined by the dimensions of the selected insulation;
• Next comes the thermal insulation material. You can use any of those that are presented on the modern construction market, but the best is a material that is made in the form of layers,
• a vapor barrier is laid and, if necessary, drywall is installed.

This method is universal in all respects. It is used not only for brick buildings, but also for wooden or reinforced concrete structures. That's why he's so popular.

Insulation of walls outside

In this case, a wooden wall already exists, and the insulation is laid between the brickwork and this very wooden wall. This method involves using the most inexpensive option, namely mineral wool. Although, it is worth noting that this may be another thermal insulation material.

Mineral wool is laid in two layers so that the next layer covers the cavities that form from the previous one. To fasten the outer and inner bases, special nails are used, the minimum length of which is one hundred millimeters.

You can go another way. Use reinforcement for tying. This is more effective, but much more expensive. The reinforcement is either knitted or welded to provide rigidity and structural integrity.

Is it necessary to line the walls of a wooden house? Video

September 4, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and exterior decoration(plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, renovations in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works

If you are looking for ways to insulate brick house outside, then you are on the right track, since this method is much better than internal insulation. However, if you suddenly want to do it on both sides, then this option will be even better, or rather, the best. I want to tell you about the difference in insulation, as well as its execution technique, and also show a video in this article.

There are three main methods of wall insulation for brick walls: insulation can be installed on the outside, inside and in the middle (well masonry).

3 methods of insulation and the difference between them

Situation without insulation

• if, for example, you have red brick walls and you do without insulation, this means that you lose 45% of the heat in the room;
• in addition, a dew point forms in the wall (SP 50 13330.2012 clause B.24 - temperature difference at which condensation begins to form), therefore, this is constant moisture in the wall;
• the presence of moisture in the wall, combined with temperature changes outside, will destroy the walls, and if you consider that the highest frost resistance of bricks does not exceed 50 cycles (F50), then this is a serious danger.

Internal insulation

What the insulation of internal walls portends for us:

• but when you insulate the wall from the inside with your own hands, the heat loss of the room will be 30% or more, that is, slightly better than without insulation at all;
• but again, there is such a thing as condensation and this harmful dew point will form between the wall and the insulation, which can be called a huge minus for the whole house;
• Fungus or mold will inevitably appear in this place, which will be facilitated by dampness. And that’s not all the disadvantages - the wall itself will constantly freeze, which will increase the number of cycles. Consequently, it will lead to the most rapid destruction of the brick;
• Moreover, this rule will work if you isolate both the corner room and the intermediate one, that is, if your apartment is located, for example, in the middle entrance, then this will not save the situation.

External insulation

External wall insulation will be most optimal:

• but the better external insulation you probably already guessed - first of all, there minimal heat loss, which are in the range of 10-15% and this is the main factor;
• our unfortunate dew point moves behind the wall and is located somewhere in the thickness of the insulation (this factor is very important when choosing a material when insulating a facade from the outside, but more on that below);
• due to the shift of the dew point to the insulation zone, you constantly have a dry wall, therefore, the service life of the masonry is significantly increased;
• and also, it has excellent sound insulation - soft material absorbs a significant range of noise coming from the street, which makes your home more comfortable and all these factors clearly indicate that it is better to carry out such work outside.

Intermediate thermal insulation

How good is this method:

• the intermediate method simultaneously carries two sides of the coin, since here the outer and internal method isolation;
• that is, if indoors it is triggered external method, then from the outside, on the contrary, the internal one is triggered;
• The boxes of all Khrushchev buildings were built according to this principle (well masonry with filler (most often, slag) inside;
• thus, the dew point is located between the masonry and does not in any way harm either the internal or external wall. However, as you understand, this method can only be implemented during the construction of a structure.

Materials used for insulation

In the photo - mineral wool

Production mineral wool carried out in accordance with GOST 31913-2011 and EN ISO 9229:2007 and, in fact, this is insulation brick house outside modern methods, that is, accessible and effective. But here you should be selective, since there are three types of minerals that are used to make such products. It is divided into:

• glass;
• slag;
• stone (basalt).

So, all this is made from melts of materials of the same name, which behave differently under certain conditions.

Thus, slag wool, made from blast furnace slag melts, contains particles of iron that are susceptible to corrosion from moisture (dew point) and the material sags, losing its insulating properties. Therefore, the instructions do not recommend the use of slag wool in such cases..

Those who have worked with glass wool know how harmful it is to health (glass dust particles) and how irritating it is. skin covering- you need to work only in a respirator and in clothing that covers all parts of the body as much as possible.

It is quite natural that the best option will be here basalt wool, besides, to work with it, only gloves are enough, although most installers generally work with bare hands.

As you may have noticed, in the photo above there is foil and plain cotton wool. The foil layer simultaneously serves as a waterproofing and heat reflector (reflects infrared radiation), which significantly increases the insulation power, however, its cost also increases.

Polystyrene foam is a common insulation material, and it has slightly greater power than mineral wool. In addition, it is much more convenient to mount it on walls and.

This material is produced in the form of square 1000x1000 mm panels with thicknesses of 20 mm, 30 mm, 40 mm, 50 mm and 100 mm. But for domestic purposes, two types of densities are used - 15 kg/m3 and 25 kg/m3, although 15th sheets scatter heavily into granules when cutting, which cannot be said about 25th panels.

Extruded polystyrene foam is very similar in appearance and structure to polystyrene foam. But this material has a density of 35 kg/cm3 and 45 kg/cm3 (the latter is even used for insulating runways).

Panels extruded polystyrene foam for such purposes, 1200x600 mm is usually chosen, and its thickness is from 10 mm to 100 mm with all values ​​divisible by 10. Of course, the thermal insulation properties are better here, but the cost is naturally much higher.

There is also such insulation as penoizol or urea-formaldehyde foam. This is, in fact, the same polystyrene foam, only in liquid form, which is applied to the wall using a pump by pouring.

Its density ranges from 6kg/m3 to 60kg/m3, although usually it is 10-15kg/m3, in any case, these parameters are still used in construction today. In private construction, such material is used very rarely, although it gradually began to gain more and more popularity. For example, insulation timber house- lined with bricks can be produced in this way for intermediate insulation.

Expanded clay is produced by firing clay and/or shale, resulting in a light porous material in the form of oval granules of different fractions. It varies in density - 350kg/m3 to 600kg/m3.

But as the density decreases, its thermal insulation properties increase. Expanded clay is usually used for intermediate insulation of walls and for floors, as bulk material.

Of course, the better to insulate brickwork at home, it’s up to you to decide, but looking at the diagram above, you can at least roughly estimate the capabilities of different materials.

Installation of insulation for frame wall cladding

A very common method is when the insulation for walls outside and inside is mounted between the profiles, laying it close to them (foam plastic and extrusion) or pressing it with dowels using fungi, as in the top photo. This is certainly very convenient.

However, the problem is that the profile itself, especially if it is metal, is an excellent conductor. That is, the entire sheathing serves as cold bridges for the main wall. In some cases, of course, gaskets are placed under the brackets, but, nevertheless, certain areas (under the profile) are still left without proper protection.

But it is better and correctly to insulate a wooden house - lined with brick or simply made of brick with cladding, when the insulation completely covers the entire surface of the wall. This is not difficult to achieve - simply install the insulation before installing the profiles.

That is, first the brackets are mounted, thermal insulation is put on them, then waterproofing, and only after that the sheathing is installed. These methods are applied both inside and outside the building - the location does not matter.

Installation of insulation under plaster and putty

Now let's see how to properly install polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam inside and outside under plaster and putty. Panels required thickness in such cases they simply stick it on the wall.

And, although there is a special glue for this, in most cases, builders (including myself) use tile adhesive of any brand, although from the street it is best to use universal compounds, for example, Ceresit CM 11. The panel here does not need to be completely smeared like ceramic tiles- it is enough to do this pointwise, in 10-15 places per square meter.

After the foam or extrusion panel has been glued to the wall, it is pressed with dowel mushrooms. For polystyrene foam, five points are optimally needed, and for extruded polystyrene foam, three (along the sheet).

To do this, make a hole in the wall through the panel with a puncher, and then insert a dowel into it, which must enter the wall at least 50 mm (otherwise it will not hold), and then hammer a spacer nail into it. By by and large, under each mushroom you need to cut a hole with your own hands to drown the cap. But this takes too much time, so they are simply pressed harder against the insulation, compensating for the convexity with putty or plaster.

Guest I-FARMER.RU writes:

I want to insulate a log house lined with brick.

I want to insulate my house. The house is log and covered with brick.

To begin with, it is worth organizing the general ideas and myths about wall materials. New materials don’t inspire confidence in you, but old ones - bricks, logs, with which you have already flown in the heat - do they inspire confidence?

Most people think that the warmest are logs and bricks. And you are going to insulate a log + brick, that is, you are breaking this myth.

If a house breathes, this means that it does not maintain internal temperature well - in winter it independently exhales heat and inhales frost, and in summer it is the other way around. The normal option is when the owner regulates breathing. With an area of ​​up to 200 sq. m there are enough vents for this, and in big houses do ventilation.

There is a wonderful PPU material - polyurethane foam, yes, not the cheapest, but this is compensated by minimal labor costs. Drill holes either from the side of the log or from the side of the brick and fill the former from cylinders ventilation gap. This is a wonderful insulation material; in addition, as it expands, it will hermetically seal all the cracks and prevent access humid air from the street side, that is, it will protect the tree from rotting and all kinds of bugs - spiders. It will bind logs and bricks into a monolith - that is, it will significantly increase the strength of the wall itself. And you can do all this alone, without particularly straining, in 2 - 3 days.

And although wooden buildings They look very beautiful and rich, they also need to be insulated from the outside. This will not only allow you to create reliable protection from moisture, but also from cold. Installation work are not particularly complicated, but if you do not have proper experience in this matter, then it is better to seek help from a specialist.

Materials

Wide choose thermal insulation materials allows every owner wooden house pick yours perfect option taking into account cost and performance.

Stone wool

This material can be cut even with a regular knife. Since the slabs are light in weight, they are very easy to transport even in a passenger car.

Stone wool

When laying stone wool it must be mounted in the space between the sheathing posts, and then laid vapor barrier material from the inside and a layer of waterproofing from the outside. But how to insulate a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool under siding will help you understand this

Ecowool

This material is characterized by its environmental friendliness. Cellulose fibers were used in its production. Produced in compressed packaging. The process of insulation with the material in question can occur in several ways:

Styrofoam

This material is considered one of the most inexpensive. It does not absorb moisture, so when installing it, care must be taken to install a moisture-proof membrane. When working with polystyrene foam, maximum care is required, because it can crumble and break.

Styrofoam

It is sold in the form of two-component substances. When applied, they foam under the influence of air. The principle of applying this heat insulator is similar to polyurethane foam. With its help, all voids in the wall are filled. Excess material is cut off.

Thus, it is possible to obtain a monolithic layer of insulation that will prevent heat from escaping from the house. Polyurethane foam is also characterized by water-repellent properties. It’s worth paying attention to what’s happening

Natural insulation materials

This category of thermal insulation materials includes slabs made of straw, clay, and sawdust. They differ in their environmental safety, cheap cost. Their main disadvantage remains the complexity of manufacturing. Flax fiber should also be classified as a natural insulation material.

Sawdust for insulation

The material has excellent antiseptic properties and prevents the formation of fungus and mold. It is easy to cut, install and does not cause allergies. But how this happens and how to do it correctly, the information at the link will help you understand and figure it out.

Installation work

The process of installing insulation varies depending on which material option was chosen. If the heat insulator is presented in the form of mats, then installation requires the following steps:

1. Surface wooden wall treat with antiseptic compounds. This should be done in two layers, focusing Special attention corners and lower crown. The ends of the logs should be treated more carefully, since they are often subject to rotting. Carry out similar actions in warm weather. After this you need to wait 1-2 days.
2. Using staples, staple a waterproofing film with a vapor-permeable coating to the walls. Attach the joints of this material with an overlap and glue them using mounting tape. Attach a vertical frame of boards to the film, the thickness of which should be equal to the thickness of the heat insulator. The sheathing pitch should be 3-5 cm less than the width of the insulating mats.
3. Install a heat insulator onto the film between the boards, while pressing it slightly. The final fastening of the material is carried out using anchor nails. If it is necessary to lay insulation in several layers, then the next layer must be laid with the seams offset. Then upper layer will overlap the joints of the lower ones.
4. Fix the waterproof and windproof membrane film over the heat insulator using staples. The joints are overlapped and secured with tape.
5. Place a ventilated frame on top of the film. To create it, boards are also used, ensuring the distance between the heat insulation layer and decorative facade not less than 5 cm. But how the floor is insulated in a wooden house from below, and what materials are the best, is indicated
6. The boards are fixed to the lower frame using self-tapping screws. If the wall surface is uneven, then it is worth using perforated profile hangers. Thanks to them, it is possible to adjust the distance to the sheathing. For finishing metal siding or corrugated sheeting, it is worth using a profile for plasterboard instead of a board.
7. The sheathing is fastened using the technology recommended by the manufacturer.

On video how to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside:

If the house is lined with bricks on the outside

If a wooden house has a brick cladding, then it can be insulated from the outside using various thermal insulation materials. When choosing suitable option it is necessary to focus on thermal engineering calculations, thanks to which you can understand the effectiveness of a particular heat insulator, as well as its useful thickness.

It is also worth paying attention to what materials are the best.

Styrofoam

This material is most often used when insulating a wooden house with brick cladding. Its main advantage remains low price and excellent thermal insulation qualities. Before installing foam plastic, a brick wall should be cleaned and leveled. But what is the technology for insulating the facade with polystyrene foam, and how difficult it is to do it, is indicated

Foam plastic for insulation

Fastening is carried out using special bolts. They are screwed through the heat insulator into the masonry. Facade plaster is applied on top of the foam.

You may also be interested in information about how insulation occurs in the form of

Mineral wool

This insulation material has been in wide demand for many decades. Mineral wool has excellent sound and heat insulation properties, provides decent ventilation and has low flammability. The disadvantages of mineral wool include a decrease in thermal insulation properties over time.

Mineral wool for insulating a brick house outside

Izolon

This modern material allows you to achieve maximum heat savings inside the house. Thermal insulation is produced in the form of rolls or solution. To insulate a wooden house, you must use liquid composition. It is pumped by special pumps into the space between the wall and the brick. Using roll material a number of difficulties arise, so it is not used so often.

Application of isolon

Isolon is characterized by excellent impact strength, which has a positive effect on its service life. The only disadvantage of the heat insulator is that it has an unattractive appearance. So you will have to take care of additional finishing.

You might also find it useful to know how

We continue our traditional series of articles from Yuri Voedilo (professional builder and repairman). Yuri writes:

Recently, heating prices have been growing enormously, so many people pay great attention to external wall insulation. Therefore, I decided to pay attention to this topic. This article will discuss the insulation of the external walls of a brick house. facing bricks. Next we will talk about the tricks of laying the brick itself and the need bulk insulation. Also, in the article we will give examples of laying out an arch.

The house is enclosed ceramic bricks has a very pleasant and neat appearance. But only under the condition that the brick is laid correctly, that is, the seams should be smooth and clean, and the brick itself should not be stained with mortar or have cracks.

Stage 1. Mortar for laying facing bricks

To work we will need the following tools:

• Construction trowel;
• Building level;
• Thread or fishing line
• Rod 8-12 mm (square reinforcement);
• Grinder with a circle on concrete;
• Cement, sand;
• Polystyrene foam in bulk form.

First, let's prepare a solution. Everything is according to the standard scheme: one part 400 grade cement and three parts sand, preferably not river sand, since the solution on river sand will set very quickly. But if you don’t have any other sand, then add a plasticizer to the solution; you can buy it at any hardware store. The thickness of the mortar should be such that it can be easily scooped up with a trowel and applied to the brick. More and more often, they add to the mortar on which brick laying will be carried out. different types pigments ( special dyes). That's why little advice: before buying a brick, consider combining the color of the brick with the color of the seam itself. In our case, the client wanted a classic seam color, that is, gray.

Stage 2. Laying ceramic (cladding) bricks

There is a lot of information on the Internet about how to lay bricks, so I don’t think it’s worth writing about the basic principles. But there is not so much about the features of laying ceramic bricks, because... high-quality insulation brick houses require special attention.

Work will begin by laying out the corners. Facing brick masonry should only be laid on waterproofing. To do this, use roofing material or thick plastic film. In our case, the waterproofing was built into the foundation itself, so we started laying the masonry directly on the foundation. Having retreated 4-5 centimeters from the main wall, we will carry out the masonry. We retreat these 4-5 cm for an air gap, I will explain why later. You need to lay ceramics in the same way as ordinary bricks, but only under a metal rod with a cross-section of 8 by 8 or 10 by 10, 12 by 12 millimeters.

And this is how it is done: a metal rod is placed directly on the masonry itself along the front edge of the brick, and a solution is applied near it. In such a way that the thickness of the applied solution near the twig itself is no higher than the twig itself. And on the back side the solution was ten millimeters higher. This effect can be easily achieved if you use a construction trowel to cut the mortar along the twig and hold the trowel at an angle.

The vertical seam is applied in the same way, only the rod is placed vertically to the end side of the brick (poke). The twig itself will not stand, so you will have to hold it while applying the solution.

Note: after about 2-3 hours of work, you need to rub the seams with a small brush. At the same time, if there are holes or tears in the seams, be sure to seal them! Otherwise, when the temperature changes +/- degrees, water will get in there and when it freezes, it will tear the seam, and after a while, the brick itself. All drops of solution from the wall must also be wiped with a rag, as after drying it will be much more difficult to wipe. By the way, after some time, white spots may appear on the wall. This is the salt that was in the sand. There is nothing scary here; it can be easily wiped off with a rag, or you need to wait until the rain washes it off.

Laying facing bricks is a painstaking process that requires care. Therefore, be patient.

Stage 3. Making a frame for a brick arch

In order to lay an arch out of brick, we first need to make a frame for it. We don't need beauty here. The main thing is strength and even bending. Take a USB sheet 10 mm thick and use a jigsaw to cut out two half-moon strips at least 6 centimeters wide. The length and curve of the crescents are individual for each window.

Next, these crescents need to be twisted together, as shown in the photo below. For this we use old bars, their thickness can be different, but the width is the same from 10 to 12 centimeters. And the length is equal to the height of our windows.

We insert the bars between the two crescents and twist them with screws 45 mm long, after which the frame is ready for use.

Stage 4. Making an arch

Having installed the frame in the place where the arched window will be, we begin to cover the frame with brick on top.

Only now we will lay the brick not horizontally, but vertically with the butt side on the face of the masonry. But since the length of the brick is 25 cm, and the width of our masonry is 17 cm (brick width 12.5 cm + air gap 4-5 cm), the brick will have to be cut to length. To cut bricks we will use a grinder with a diamond wheel for concrete.

The adjacent bricks of the main wall will also need to be cut at an angle. The arch should be flat in relation to the main wall at the same level or protrude outward by 2-4 cm, this is a matter of client taste. After a day, three arch frames can be safely disassembled. The arch is ready.

Stage 5. Insulating the brick walls of the house with polystyrene foam from the outside

We will still fill the air gap that we left between the main wall and the ceramic brick. This is an integral part of lining a house with facing bricks and insulation. The next question is: what kind of insulation should be between brick wall and facing bricks? To do this, we decided to use loose foam, which is sold in bags. Why this and not sheet foam?

Here's why. The first advantage: if for some reason the walls of the building were not level, then the loose foam plastic will not react in any way when backfilled. But with leafy ones you will have to suffer. The second advantage: mice can get into sheet foam and create a lot of passages and holes for themselves. It is impossible to make a move in loose foam because mice cannot climb on it. As they rake with their paws, they sharpen like a truck in the mud, remaining in place.

Before pouring foam into the wall, you need to close the cracks around the perimeter of windows and doors using mineral wool or sheet foam. Moreover, the latter is better, since when filling slopes it will be easier to apply putty on the foam.

Note: in order to safely insulate the walls of a brick house from the outside in windy weather, I do not recommend pouring polystyrene foam. All the foam will scatter all over your yard in the best case, and in the worst case it will even sweep away your neighbors.

Attention! We received feedback that with such insulation over the course of a year, polystyrene foam filled in this way can sag three meters in height of the house, about 60-70 cm. We have had experience in dismantling such walls. Experience shows that insulating voids has little effect. In this material, the photo showed that they had the opportunity to attach ordinary polystyrene foam to the walls, even with foam adhesive. And then lay the masonry. The difference in the price of materials is not significant.
This can be corrected by blowing perlite into the resulting voids in the upper part of the masonry.

Yuri, the author of the article answers: To ensure shrinkage, we tamped foam chips every meter of height. In addition, for filling after two or three years, it is enough to remove the hem and do the filling. And yet, the difference in price is not significant, but there are two but... 1. In such foam, mice are found three times less often and not for long, since it is not convenient for them to make moves there and they simply fall down. 2. When using sheet foam, you need a more or less flat surface; for loose foam, this is of no use.

Stage 6. Final work

Advice: few builders know this secret: when all the work on insulating a house with bricks is completed, spare no expense and buy a couple of canisters of liquid silicone at a construction supermarket. And carefully paint all the brickwork, especially the seams, they can even be filled in. After drying, a barely noticeable transparent film will remain on the wall. Thanks to it, your home will look like new for 5-10 years longer. If you don’t have enough money for liquid silicone, then replace it with a primer deep penetration, just remember no drips on the brick, otherwise after drying you will be in for a very unpleasant surprise. And so, all work on laying facing bricks and insulating the brick house is completed. Although this type of insulation is a little expensive, it will serve you for many years.

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