How to quickly and efficiently dig a well: analysis of self-digging technology. How to dig a well by hand: step-by-step instructions How to dig a well with your own hands with rings

Even if the house is equipped with a centralized water supply, a well will not be superfluous, since watering flower beds or a vegetable garden tap water quite expensive, and in case of a shutdown it will be a good help. At the dacha, it is generally the only source of water. Digging wells is not an easy task, but it is doable. Even if you decide to involve a special team in this matter, you will still have to control them. You need to know how to dig a well with your own hands in a suburban area.

Most reliable way– this will apply for a hydrogeological study. They will tell you the exact place where it is best to dig a well from concrete rings, plus an analysis of the water that will be in the future well. But this service is not cheap and can only pay for itself if the water in the well is used as drinking water, that is, near a house with people permanently living in it. At a summer cottage, its necessity is intended mainly for technical needs, but for drinking water it can only be cleaned if it goes into the house.

If you are going to do without research, then you need to focus on some signs:

be guided by the position of the wells in the neighborhood - rock layers usually lie unevenly, and the situation is also the same with aquifers. If the water in the neighboring well is at a depth of 6 meters, this does not mean that the water in yours will be at the same level. It may turn out to be either higher or lower, or even go somewhere sharply to the side. So this is only an approximate “outline” of the project where well water may be located;
observing the behavior of animals and insects. The most accurate guide can be small midges. IN warm period, if there is no wind in the evening before sunset, inspect the area. If there are places on it where midges “hang” in pillars, this indicates that aquifers are located quite close in this place. To make sure of this, observe the marked area in the morning. If fog swirls over it in the morning, then the water is indeed quite close;
folk way. We take pottery. Unglazed is best. You can also use a regular pan, as long as it is wide. Oven-dried silica gel is poured into the selected container. If you don’t have it and you don’t know where you can get it, then you need to take it ceramic bricks, break them until only small crumbs remain, and dry them in the oven for several hours. Then you need to pour it into the container to the top and tie it with a dry cotton cloth. Only in such a way that it doesn’t come undone. Weigh and record the resulting value. Then, at the site of the proposed well, dig a hole 1-1.5 meters deep, after which you need to place a vessel in the dug layer and cover it with earth. Wait a day. Then dig it up and weigh it again. The more the mass has changed, the greater the concentration of water in this place;
analyze the grass growing on the site - this method is well applicable only when the site has not yet been plowed. When inspecting vegetation, try to identify the most overgrown islands. You don’t need to pay special attention to single plants, since they can be brought here randomly; this method requires clearings and islands of vegetation.

These methods are only an approximate determination of the location of aquifer deposits where it is possible to dig wells from concrete rings. None of them gives a 100% guarantee, but if several methods are used, you can determine a more or less exact location and it is worth trying to dig a well in this exact place.

It is most favorable to dig a well twice a year: either in the second half of August, or in the middle of winter - after two weeks of frost. During these two periods, the lowest level of groundwater and high water practically does not occur. This will greatly facilitate the work; in addition, it will be much easier to determine the flow rate - during these periods it is at a minimum and in the future you will not experience a shortage of water.

If you decide to dig a well or dig a well yourself, you may not have enough time in August, since this is the “border zone” before the rainy season. In this case, you need to start work early. Maybe even at the beginning of the month. In general, you need to calculate the time of work in such a way that reaching the aquifer occurs during the most “waterless” period. Ideally, it is also advisable to deal with the waterproofing of the walls.

Two ways to dig a well from concrete rings

The most popular is the well design made of concrete rings. Its popularity is due to its simplicity. But at the same time, it has quite serious disadvantages: its joints with concrete rings are characterized by rather weak tightness and through them rain and melt water can enter the well, and together with them, both what is dissolved in it and what has drowned.

You can try to seal the joints of the rings, but most effective methods you can’t use it: the water must be suitable for at least irrigation. And sealing joints with a solution is quite ineffective and short-lived. Over time, the cracks widen and not only melted or rainwater, but also insects, worms, animals and so on.

There are special rings with a lock. Rubber gaskets can be installed between them to ensure a tight seal. Rings with locks are on sale. Although their price is much higher, it is almost impossible to find gaskets for them, as well as wells equipped with them.

How to properly dig a well at your dacha with your own hands? There are two methods for digging a well from concrete rings: installing the rings one at a time and installing them after the aquifer has been reached. Both methods are used, just at different depths and both have their drawbacks.

Alternate installation of rings. In this case, the first ring is installed on the ground, which is slowly removed from the inside and under the side. The ring gradually lowers. Very important point: you need to be very careful that it falls straight down, without distortions. Otherwise, the shaft will become inclined and, over time, the settlement of the rings will stop. To avoid distortion, you need to ensure that the walls are vertical. To do this, you just need to tie a plumb line to the block, after which the block is placed on the ring. For additional control, use a building level.

As soon as the upper edge of the ring is level with the ground level, install the following. It is installed strictly from above. Work continues. If on the first ring the soil can be thrown over the side using a shovel with a short handle, then on the next ring the soil will have to be removed using a gate or a block and a tripod. Based on this, we can conclude that the work must be carried out by at least two people, and in order to move the rings, at least 3-4 people will be required. Thus, independent digging (one person) is impossible. Unless for this task you will need to adapt a winch.

Using this method, the depth of the well is gradually increased. As soon as the ring reaches the same level with the ground, a new one is installed on it. For descent, use driven staples or ladders(the safest and most correct way is to use staples).

The advantages of this method of digging a well:

It is possible to control how evenly and how tightly the ring fits.
It is possible to install rubber gaskets to ensure tightness or to place them on the solution.
The walls do not crumble.

These were the advantages. Let's talk about the shortcomings. Working inside the ring is quite inconvenient and physically difficult. This method is used, as a rule, for shallow depths - 7-8 meters. Work in the mine must be done in turns.

One more point: when digging a well with rings, you can use a knife to speed up the subsidence process and facilitate the passage of soil. It is made of concrete and is poured into the ground at the very beginning. In order to make it in a circle, a groove is dug, which has a triangular shape in cross-section (see picture). Its inner diameter should match the inner diameter of the rings that will be used in the process, the outer one is slightly larger. After the concrete has hardened, a standard ring is installed on this ring and work begins.

Knife structure

Installation of rings after reaching the aquifer. First you need to dig a shaft without rings. In this case, you need to watch the walls. As soon as the first signs of shedding begin to appear, rings are immediately installed inside and they continue to work according to the first method. Using a crane or manipulator, rings are placed into the shaft. Then they deepen it by several more rings using the first method, increasing the flow rate.

The soil is removed from the mine in the same way: while the depth is not very great, it is simply thrown out with a shovel. After that, a tripod and a gate are installed and lifted using buckets. As soon as the rings are installed, the gap between them and the walls of the shaft is filled and compacted. Several upper rings can be sealed from the outside (for this you can use bitumen impregnation or other coating waterproofing).

The advantages of this method:

The mine is wider, which means that it is much more convenient to carry out work in it, which makes it possible to dig deeper wells.
You can seal several of the top rings, which will reduce the chance of contaminated water entering the well.

There are significantly more disadvantages:

It is difficult to control the tightness of the joint of the rings: being in the shaft during installation is strictly prohibited. It is impossible to rotate the ring already installed in the shaft due to its large mass.
You can gape and the mine will crumble.
The filling density of the gap between the shaft walls and the rings is less than the “native” soil. Because of this, it becomes possible for melt and rainwater to seep deep, where through the cracks they can enter directly into the well. To prevent this, a protective circle is made around the well from a waterproof material (waterproofing membrane) with a slope away from the walls of the well.

During work, you need to monitor the verticality of the walls, but it can be corrected to a certain extent. The control method is the same - a beam with a plumb line attached to it and lowered into the shaft.

How do you know when to stop digging?

According to the technology, soil is removed inside and below the ring. Because of this, it settles under its own weight. The soil that is removed will serve as a guide. Usually the water is between two waterproof layers. This is often clay or limestone.

The aquifer is usually sand. It can be small, like sea water, or large with interspersed small pebbles. Most often there are several such layers. As soon as the sand begins to flow, it means that we should expect water soon. As soon as it appears at the bottom, you need to dig for some more time, removing the already wet soil.

If there is a strong influx of water, you can stop. The aquifer is not very large, since there is a chance to go through it. In this case, you will have to dig until the next one. The deeper, the cleaner the water will be, but how much deeper, no one can say for sure.

After this, the well is pumped - a submersible pump is installed and the water is pumped out. Thus, it is cleaned, deepening it a little, and in addition its flow rate is determined. If you are happy with the speed at which the water is rising, you can stop there. If not, you need to quickly go through this layer. The soil continues to be washed out with a running pump until this layer is passed. Then they dig to the next aquifer.

If you are satisfied with the incoming water and its quality, you can build a bottom filter. It consists of three layers of stones of different fractions, which are laid on the bottom. This is necessary to ensure that as little silt and sand enters the water as possible. For this filter to work, you need to place the stones correctly:

The largest stones are placed at the very bottom. These are quite large cobblestones. But in order not to greatly reduce the height of the water column, it is better to use the flattest stones. They need to be laid out in two layers, and they do not need to be laid closely, but with small gaps.
The middle fraction is poured in a layer of 10-20 cm. Their dimensions should be such that pebbles or stones do not fall into the gaps of the lower layer.
The topmost shallowest layer. Pebbles and stones small sizes layer of 10-15 cm. They are necessary for sand settling.

With such a mound of fractions, the water will be cleaner: first, the largest inclusions settle on large stones, and as you move upward, smaller ones become smaller.

Compliance with safety precautions during work

Digging a well, whether with your own hands or with a team, is quite dangerous and hard work, especially after the first three rings have been dug. Buckets need to be pulled out using a winch, winch or pulley, and they are quite heavy. There is a risk that the rope may break or the handle may not hold. Because of this, you must follow the safety rules:

Anyone working below must wear a helmet.
The buckets should have a fairly strong handle; for insurance, it is better to weld it, making it from thick wire in several layers.
Buckets must be tied to a strong rope, at the end of which a powerful carabiner must be attached with a reliable fixation.
From time to time check the condition of the bucket handle, rope and carabiner.
When lifting buckets, the person working below should be on the opposite side.
Work downstairs one by one.

Precautions are not unnecessary. Better to play it safe.

Once completed earthworks, pump installation and pumping, which lasts at least 2 weeks, can begin finishing work, namely decorative design head. Many people leave the top concrete ring unchanged. In order to decorate the top part, you can use a brick a natural stone or ceramic tiles. Folk craftsmen build small wooden log houses, install “cranes” as decorative elements, and construct carved canopies.

Based on the article, in order to build a well yourself, you will first need to make sure of the aquifers, choose the right location, decide on the design and follow safety precautions. The rest all depends on your free time and your skills.

Digging a well on your own plot of land means saving money and providing your plot with water. Own water supply is a significant plus for a residential country house, and for gardening summer cottage. Let's look at how to dig a well by hand and what you need for this.

Choosing a place for a well

Before you dig a well with your own hands, you need to decide on the digging location. under the soil layer is not located at the same depth. Sometimes differences in the level of the aquifer, even within one area, reach several meters. As a result of the wrong choice of location for the well, you will have to spend a lot of time and effort digging these few extra meters of soil.

Another potential problem is the possible presence of hard rocks under the soil layer, which may simply be impossible to overcome with a shovel. In such a situation, all the labor spent on digging the water well shaft will go down the drain. Therefore, people who decide to provide their land plot with an autonomous source of water immediately face a pressing question - “how to properly dig a well?”

Determining the depth of the water layer

The depth of water can be determined using special geophysical instruments. True, not every homeowner has such equipment, and not everyone knows how to handle them. To determine the depth of the aquifer, you will need to contact the nearest organization specializing in the construction of hydraulic structures.

Of course, the services of a geophysicist will cost certain money, but this will avoid mistakes in determining the location of the well.

“Ancient” methods of searching for water on a site: with their help, in ancient times, our ancestors found places where groundwater came to the surface, where they began digging a well.

The easiest way to do this is to consider the composition of the grasses, trees and shrubs growing wild on your site. Each type of vegetation requires a certain supply of water.

In places where water is close to the ground, a light fog appears. Midges and mosquitoes like to swarm in the grass over such places. The easiest way to dig a well here is to dig a well yourself, without using earth-moving equipment.

Let's say that if some herbs love dry places, then others grow exclusively in wet areas, with high level groundwater. Using the table presented, you can determine the water level based on the plants growing on the site.

Plants	Depth of groundwater in meters
Cattail	0 - 1
Poplar black	0.5 - 3
Sandy reed	1 - 3
Loch	1 - 3 (up to 5)
Sarsazan	0.5 - 3 (up to 5)
Artemisia paniculata	3 - 5 (up to 7)
Chiy brilliant	1.5 - 5 (up to 8)
Licorice naked	1.5 - 6 (up to 10)
Sandy wormwood	3 - 5 (up to 10)
Alfalfa yellow	4 - 10

You can try to find water using dowsing, or scientifically, dowsing. True, this requires certain experience and skills, and real grapevine V middle lane It is difficult to find in Russia. But it can be replaced by two copper wires bent at right angles.

If, while walking along the site, you hold them in relaxed hands parallel to each other, then at the point where the water approaches the surface close, they should intersect. You should also observe the site in the summer, at sunrise.

What you need for work

After determining the most promising point for digging a well, you should prepare the necessary tools. WITH technical point From the point of view, it is best to dig in the winter, when the groundwater is at its lowest.

True, winter work is complicated by the human factor: doing heavy physical labor while wrapped in several layers of warm clothing is not very comfortable.

To dig a well, you will need the following tools and equipment:

There are two types of shovels - scoop and bayonet. The cuttings on them should be shortened for ease of maneuvering in confined spaces.
A crowbar or pick, for driving through dense layers of compacted gravel or clay.
Buckets for lifting waste soil. Should be given Special attention reliability of attachment of the bucket handle, to avoid its breakage when lifting.
Ropes for lifting buckets. Their strength should also be given special attention.
A tripod frame with a block or winch attached to it. It is installed directly above the well shaft and serves to facilitate soil lifting.
A plumb bob to control the verticality of a mine shaft.
Protective equipment and work uniform - construction helmet, gloves, etc.
Pumping equipment for pumping water coming from the aquifer into the mine shaft.

Until relatively recently, the walls of the well were made in the form of a log house from logs or beams. Today, such a labor-intensive option is increasingly becoming a thing of the past. It is much easier and more reliable to make a well from concrete rings.

It is better to purchase rings with a ¼ lock for these purposes. This will make it easy to center them on each other, and will also simplify the work of waterproofing the joints.

Closed digging option

Before you dig a well in your dacha or personal plot, preparatory work should be done.

You should start by marking the site for the upcoming laying of the well shaft; for this we make a rack cross template. Its size should be 20-30 cm larger than the outer diameter of the concrete rings that will be used as the walls of the shaft.

Then we remove the top layer of soil, remove the turf and go deeper into the soil. From time to time, during the digging process, we monitor the verticality of the shaft using a plumb line, and also measure its diameter with a rack template. The selected soil should be transported by wheelbarrow away so that it does not interfere with the installation of rings and installation of pumping equipment.

At the initial stage, the earth is simply thrown out of the excavation with a shovel, but when deepened to 1.5-2 m, this becomes difficult. To facilitate soil removal, a tripod with a block through which the cable is thrown is installed above the shaft. A bucket is attached to the lower end of the cable. The help of a second person will be required to lift and remove waste soil.

After deepening to a certain distance from the surface, the first casing ring should be installed. The moment of its installation depends on the density of the soil - the softer and looser the soil, the earlier the ring is installed to avoid the collapse of the shaft walls.

As the earth moves away from under the ring, it will sink down under the pressure of its own mass. Then we install the second ring on top, and so on.

Video instructions for digging wells:

Open digging method

IN in this case We dig wells to the full depth, right down to penetration into the aquifer, and only after that we begin the installation of casing rings. This technological method is characterized by the danger of collapsing the walls of the mine with all the ensuing consequences for humans. Therefore, open technology should be used exclusively on dense soils - clayey or compressed gravel-sand.

After installing the casing elements, the seams should be sealed to prevent the entry of contaminated water from the upper layers of the soil - the “upper water”.

The advantage of the open digging method is that there is no need to constantly keep lifting and mounting equipment at the work site to install the rings. The crane is ordered only at the final stage of work, for the simultaneous installation of all concrete rings into the shaft.

Well bottom filter

When the aquifer is reached, a pump should be installed to remove the water entering the mine, and the rings should be deepened another 1-2 m. You should not go too deep at this moment because of the danger of going through the aquifer and going deep into the soil layer that does not contain water.

After this, a filter should be installed at the bottom of the well to naturally purify the water entering the mine. Without this, it will be cloudy, with admixtures of suspended sand and clay.

It is done by filling a well with stones or large crushed stone. The thickness of this layer should reach 20cm. The second layer is filled with medium-fraction gravel (1-3 cm in diameter) in the same layer.

And on top of these two layers, a final layer of river pebbles and coarse-grained clean sand is poured. Water rising from the bottom of the well passes through this multi-layer filter and is purified naturally.

What safety measures are required when digging a well?

Digging a well at your dacha with your own hands, if desired, will not be difficult. But it should be remembered that excavation work carried out at such a depth always poses many dangers. In this regard, when working, special attention should be paid to observing safety precautions.

Initially, the work site should be fenced off or covered with wire so that random people, especially children, do not fall into the mine.
All mechanisms and devices used for lifting soil must be thoroughly examined for strength. This applies to both the tripod structure itself and the buckets, blocks and cables.
It is recommended to tie a second, safety rope to the buckets. It is thrown over a separate block on the frame, but its end is in the hands of a man at the bottom of the well shaft.
When deepened by 4 meters or more, there may be a problem with access to clean air into the mine. And when working in peat bogs and swampy areas, there is a high probability of swamp gas - methane - escaping into the mine shaft. Gradually accumulating at the bottom, it can lead to severe poisoning.
To avoid this, you should consider a ventilation system: either regularly “sweep” air from the bottom using hand tools fan type, or use a household compressor, or even a regular vacuum cleaner, to supply clean air to the bottom.

Creepy but quick well digging:

Digging a well at your dacha with your own hands may seem like a simple task. In fact, this process has many subtleties, without knowledge of which it is simply impossible to obtain high-quality water suitable for drinking. We will describe in detail not only the process of its construction, but also how to find water-bearing veins, as well as the installation of plumbing systems for supplying water to the house.

Types of wells

The choice of well type depends on the depth of the aquifer and soil type:

key: used infrequently when underground sources (springs) come close to the surface; a hole sunk 10-20 cm into the ground is filled with crushed stone, then a log house is prepared with a hole to drain excess water
mine: the most common, used when aquifers occur at a depth of 5-25 m; consists of a trunk, a water intake in the lower part, located under water, and a head (above-ground part)
Abyssinian (tubular): unlike a well, it is less deep and has a smaller casing diameter; plus the pumps it uses are not submersible, but above-ground (often manual); such a structure is inexpensive, but its service life is short; plus in winter, when groundwater goes deeper, its extraction can be difficult

Log shaft wells, based on the type of lower (water intake) part, are in turn divided into three more groups:

with an imperfect (incomplete) water intake: its lower part does not reach the bottom of the water layer, so liquid seeps through the bottom or walls; This is the option that is most often chosen when building a well with your own hands; the volume of water in it is quite enough for irrigation and meeting the needs of the family
with perfect water intake: it is located at the very bottom of the aquifer; Such structures for private houses are rarely used, because if water supplies exceed the family’s normal expenses, the water in it will quickly deteriorate and silt up
with a perfect water intake, complemented by a sump– deepening in the underlying rock to create a water reserve

Selecting a location

For some reason, some people think that water should be present everywhere. It is enough to make the hole deeper - and the well is ready. As a result, a wasted mine, wasted time and nerves. Moreover, the vein can pass just a couple of meters from the dug well, which remains dry.

To this day, the dowsing method is successfully used to search for a nearby water layer. Once upon a time, branches of viburnum, hazel or willow served as natural biolocators. Today, even experienced drillers often replace them with pieces of copper or aluminum wire with ends bent at 90 degrees. They are inserted into hollow tubes and, holding them in their hands, they walk through the area meter by meter. Where water passes close, the wires begin to cross in the direction of the flow. To be sure, the area is examined in this way several times.

When looking for a place for a well in your country house, you should also pay attention to the color of the greenery growing on the site. Near the water it is more juicy. Willows, meadowsweet, ivy and crabgrass are very fond of such places - where they have chosen a place to grow, there will definitely be a vein. Nettle, horse sorrel, cinquefoil, naked licorice, coltsfoot, and horsetail also grow here. But apple and plum trees, on the contrary, take root worse and often die.

Alder, willow, birch, willow and maple will always tend towards the aquifer. Single oak trees are also a sign of high standing waters. They grow exactly where they intersect.

It has long been noticed that cats love to bask in such places. Dogs avoid such areas. Red ants are also worth watching. They try to place anthills away from water. A large number of mosquitoes and midges always hover near it in the evening. In the mornings there is also always more dew and fog swirling here.

After finding the probable location of the aquifer, before digging a well at the dacha, exploratory drilling. For these purposes, it is allowed to use a regular garden auger. Since you will have to go deeper by 6-10 m, its length will have to be increased. If moisture appears after digging a well, then the location of the water layer has been determined correctly.

If you don't trust the old proven methods, contact a nearby geological surveyor. Such organizations always have special geophysical instruments in their arsenal that can accurately determine the proximity of an aquifer.

When the layers are below 10-15 m, the idea of digging a well should be abandoned. In this case, drilling a well will be necessary.

How deep should a well be dug?

How to make a “correct” well so that there is always water in it? Its depth depends only on natural factors. Therefore, it is very difficult to determine in advance how many rings will be needed. Structures located nearby, for example, near neighbors, can provide an approximate guide, but these data will also be inaccurate. Unfortunately, a method that can accurately tell about the future depth does not yet exist.

To calculate the required number of concrete rings and the depth of the shaft, test drilling is carried out. It is used to determine the density of the soil, its composition, as well as the presence of limestone slabs nearby. But it cannot give an accurate result either.

In the diagrams, aquifers look like strips running underground horizontally or at a slight slope. The drainage part of the well can only be located at its upper boundary (the roof of the formation), in the center or at the very bottom (the bottom of the formation).

To obtain clean water, the mine must reach the second or even third aquifer. The first of these is perched water - water that accumulates near the surface. Its level is always unstable, plus it gets dirty easily. It is used only for watering. When digging a drinking well, you need to go through this layer and go deeper down.

Excavation continues until the veins are clearly visible and water begins to flow into the pit in sufficient quantities. It must be left for a day, and its arrival must be checked on the second day. If the height of the water layer is at least 1.5 m, you can stop digging and begin shaking (cleaning) from suspended soil.

Digging wells on your own on light sandy soils is dangerous due to the possibility of collapse and rubble. If there are several places on the site with the passage of aquifers, you should choose a place with the most dense soil. It is advisable that it be elevated to avoid rainwater flowing into it.

In order not to take risks, it is better in this case to use the services of specialists. The price of constructing a turnkey well in different areas may vary, so it is better to check with a specific organization.

What is a bottom filter?

Do you need a filter for a well? If it contains quicksand without a bottom filter - a layer of sand, crushed stone, gravel or pebbles that serves to clean the incoming moisture from suspended earth - it is a necessity. Of course, it will be problematic to get rid of them completely, but it will be able to settle most of the small particles of soil. This filter works on the principle of a conventional sieve.

But among well owners (and many experts) there is often an opinion that such cleaning is necessary even in the absence of quicksand. Supposedly, only it can provide perfectly clean water. Indeed, at first, a small film of special algae and bacteria forms in the sand layer, eating microorganisms dissolved in the water. But the service life of such a biological filter is short. Over time, the biofilm layer increases, the filtration rate decreases, and the well quickly silts up.

A properly constructed well should only be filled through the bottom. In practice, it is not always possible to ensure only bottom inflow. Water often begins to seep through the walls. In this case, its cleaning through the bottom filter simply does not occur.

Plus, a significant layer of backfill (and it should be at least half a meter) reduces the volume of water. Its inflow is also decreasing. It becomes difficult to carry out high-quality cleaning of a silted well in the presence of a layer of sand and crushed stone.

In villages, large stones are sometimes placed at the bottom. But this is only required to avoid muddying the water when scooping during seasonal shallowing. If the well is deep enough and its level does not drop too low, this is not particularly necessary.

If quicksand is detected, in addition to the bottom filter, you will also need to construct a special shield made of wood or steel with holes that can contain the flow of soil mixed with liquid.

What to choose, concrete rings or a wooden frame?

Just digging a well is not enough. He needs reliable protection from collapse. Concrete rings or wood can be used for this. Brick shafts are rarely used - laying them out is too labor-intensive. Plus, a metal frame is required to strengthen the brick, otherwise the walls will quickly begin to crumble. It is made from profiles, reinforcement or durable wood.

Concrete rings will last longer. Choosing log houses made of wood makes sense if access and delivery of rings to the selected site is impossible. The price of a well made of wood is unlikely to be lower than a structure made of concrete rings, and construction will take more time. And such mines silt up faster and will have to be cleaned more often.

The use of concrete rings greatly simplifies and speeds up the work. They are installed end to end. To avoid displacement, such rings are fastened together with steel staples. To prevent chipping along the edges, you can make 40-60 mm steel overlay strips.

The joints of the rings are coated concrete mortar and additionally compacted with tarred hemp or liquid glass. On loose soils, it is better to place strong boards at the bottom of the shaft so that the rings stand evenly.

Monolithic concrete wells are prepared using formwork. If the depth is significant, concrete is first poured to a shallow depth. Next, they continue to dig a hole, making a tunnel under a layer of concrete and installing supports for it. After passing another 2 meters, a new formwork is prepared. In order for the walls to become stronger, a period of 7-10 days is maintained between each filling.

For wooden log houses, you will need a log made of moisture-resistant ash or oak with a diameter of 15 cm. Thicker logs with a thickness of 22 cm or more are cut in half. Conifers It is not recommended to take them - they will add a slight bitterness to drinking water.

The log house is assembled with locks “in the paw”, that is, several tenons are prepared at one end of the log, and grooves at the other. This is done first on the surface, marking the number of each crown, and then reassembled in the shaft. The crowns are fastened with dowels (metal pins) vertically. The upper crowns are additionally reinforced with steel brackets.

To avoid penetration Wastewater It is prohibited to locate a drinking well at a distance closer than 30 m from sewer and cesspool pits. To avoid weakening of the soil under the foundations, it must be removed at least 8 m from the nearest buildings.

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Construction of a well from concrete rings in stages

Let us describe in detail the process of constructing a well at a turnkey dacha. This task is quite labor-intensive, and it can take a lot of time.

Digging a well

Work must begin in March ( best time) or August-September, when groundwater drops to its minimum level. In the southern and northern regions of Russia, this period may shift.
Don't forget basic safety rules. Work should be carried out only by two people (alternately) using a safety rope.
Since wells are often dug by hand, its width is determined by the dimensions of the human body. The optimal diameter is 0.8-1.5 m. Although, of course, these dimensions are approximate. There is simply no point in making it wider - the amount of incoming moisture will not increase.
When using concrete rings, the width of the pit is equal to the width of the ring plus an allowance of 30-50 cm.
Please note that during the digging process the pit can fill up quite quickly, so you will have to periodically pump out the water.
To prevent the rings from accidentally moving, it is advisable to purchase products with tongue-and-groove locks. Their connection to each other will be more reliable.
The lowest ring (water inlet) must be equipped with a bottom and perforations on the walls.
Removal of soil continues to a depth equal to the height of the first (perforated) ring. It is installed so that it protrudes 10 cm above the ground.
Under the first ring, 4 recesses are prepared, into which strong wooden supports or a row of bricks are installed.
We continue to dig a shaft under the ring standing on supports. It must be dug slightly under the cone so that the first ring can easily fall down under the influence of its own weight.
We remove the supports by lowering the ring lower. Install a new ring on top.
We continue to go deeper into the ground in the same order, while simultaneously increasing the rings.
When reaching the aquifer, digging continues until a layer of water of 40-50 cm is formed at the bottom.
Next, it must be completely drained so that the water-bearing veins are clearly visible. The well is covered with a thick film or tarpaulin.
Subsequent work is carried out after 12-14 hours.
To filter suspended soil and prevent it from agitating, a layer of coarse crushed stone 25 cm thick can be poured onto the bottom.
The well is again left for a day to allow the water to rise. Its layer should be 1.5 m.
If the water supply in the reservoir is due to small height The layer is not enough; side holes can be made in the walls to collect it.
The gap formed between the log house and the ground is filled with crushed stone or gravel.

Underground gas may enter the well shaft! Although such cases are infrequent, at the slightest suspicion (hissing, gurgling, the appearance of a foreign smell), lower a bucket with a burning candle into it or throw a bunch of lit straw into it. To avoid a strong explosion (if there is methane in the mine), move away from it. In the presence of carbon dioxide a candle or straw, on the contrary, will quickly go out. If the gas does not go away for a long time, in order to figure out the problem, you will need to call specialists and the Ministry of Emergency Situations.

Clay castle and blind area

The “clay castle” serves as a natural barrier, protecting against the penetration of rainwater and domestic wastewater. To create it, soil is selected around the well to a depth of 50 cm. The width of such a ditch is 30-45 cm. We place wet clay in it. To prevent the formation of voids and cracks, it must be thoroughly trampled. The top is compacted and smoothed using a wide board. For ease of walking, you can lay a row of bricks, large stones, or make a blind area of concrete.

In the first years, wells built on clay soil fill more slowly. They may need to be periodically pumped to flush the springs. Subsequently, the influx increases.

Construction of the head

Decorative well with brick cap

Its purpose is to prevent water pollution on land. After all, the external insulation of a structure is no less important. Without it, tree leaves, insects and wind-blown debris will constantly fall into the well.

The head should rise above the surface at a height of 60-90 cm. It is equipped with a lid and a device for raising water. Even if you have a pumping system, you shouldn’t abandon the bucket gate. After all, the electricity may be turned off for a while.

The best finishing materials are wood or brick. It’s definitely not worth protecting the head with metal tiles. Its angles are so sharp that they can cut your skin like a knife. There is no need to make the lid too tight - in order to avoid the appearance of mustiness, the well must “breathe”.

There is no point in insulating the head. Reliable thermal insulation must be located at the level of the top pair of rings so that the water in the well does not freeze.

The height of the frame or concrete rings should be 0.8-1 m, so that when removing a bucket, a person can safely reach it without bending too much down.

Well rocking

The water in the dug well is still cloudy and can only be used for irrigation. It is not yet suitable for drinking. Water, as well as the bottom and walls of the pit, are cleaned from loose soil using a small submersible mud pump:

remember the rule: the first few pumpings are carried out in small portions with a intake of no more than 3/4 of the water column; otherwise, with an intensive supply of new portions of moisture, the bottom will be washed away, and such cleaning will be of no use
The very first cleaning is done manually; to do this you need to go down into the well with an ordinary shovel and bucket; The pump cannot handle so much dirt yet
the pump is hooked onto a strong cable and installed closer to the bottom, at the gravel filter to prevent the sludge from settling
pumping is carried out until water begins to flow intensively; the number of pump starts per day is at least four; and this must be done in different modes
drain contaminated water
From time to time the pump must be flushed by running clean water, otherwise it will quickly fail due to overload
a well dug in clay soil requires lengthy cleaning; some owners believe that cloudy liquid in this case is inevitable, but this is far from the case; its mine can and should be pumped

In a similar way, periodic purification of water from a well is carried out. Otherwise, it will silt and become shallow. This is done as it gets dirty.

With absence mud pump the mixture of liquid and soil is removed from the well using an ordinary bucket with a rope tied to it. But this process is very labor-intensive - cleaning must be done until the water becomes absolutely clean, without impurities.

When the well is located on quicksand - soil mixed with big amount water - it is impossible to clean it. In this case, special drainage systems (bottom filters) are used.

To ensure uninterrupted supply of water to the garden house, a pipe insert is prepared in advance in one of the concrete rings. They should be laid 30 cm below the soil freezing level. Otherwise, at the end of winter, burst pipes will have to be replaced. This indicator is different in each area, so it should be clarified.

To lay a water pipeline at a dacha from a well to the house, a trench is laid to it. When calculating its depth, the height of the sand and gravel cushion is taken into account (up to 10-15 cm). HDPE is used for laying water pipes polyethylene pipes made of plastic low pressure. The optimal diameter is 32 mm. You will also need connecting fittings (tees, reducers, bends, etc.).

Since the cost of pipes is minimal, experts advise laying two lines to the well at once. In this case, if a leak occurs, you can use the second one as a backup option.

For mechanical protection against soil pressure, pipes are ironed into corrugations or pipes of larger diameter. It is better to lay a layer of insulation between them. When lifting pipes closer to the surface near a base or unheated basement, they may freeze, so additional thermal insulation is required in these places.

For an uninterrupted supply of water from a well in the utility room, it is better to provide a storage tank. After laying the pipes, they are connected to a pump, which is lowered into the water at a distance of 30 cm from the bottom (more on its selection below).

Selection of pumping equipment

As you know, all types of pumps are divided into two types:

1 Superficial: they only have a suction pipe in the water; such units are capable of lifting it only from a depth of up to 10.3 m; it is to this height that water can rise through the tube, pushed by atmospheric pressure into the tube; in practice, due to friction losses and vibrations atmospheric pressure this parameter decreases and equals 5-7 m; mechanisms with ejectors (water flow accelerators) can lift water from greater depths, but their efficiency is too low.

2 Submersible: the entire mechanism is completely lowered into the liquid, which allows water to be delivered from great depths; since such units do not expend power on suction, there is no loss of power; their efficiency is much higher than surface efficiency.

Thus, it is advisable to pump water for the dacha from deep wells pumping stations, equipped submersible pumps. All that remains is to determine their power and performance. It is necessary to take into account not only the needs of the family, but also the flow of water in the well itself. Otherwise, it may turn out that an overly powerful unit will run idle.

Please also note that the overall efficiency of the system will depend not only on the power of the unit, but also on the number of turns and narrowings of the water pipeline. If there is a small influx of water, it makes sense to purchase a low-power pump and install a storage tank from which water will be supplied to the taps in the house.

Another important parameter for a pump - pressure force, that is, the ability to transmit (move) pumped water further through the pipes. This parameter is directly related to the operating pressure. That is, per 10 m of vertical pipe there is a pressure of 1 atmosphere.

The water has left the well. What to do?

The aquifer is depleted over time, so the amount of moisture in the well decreases, and then it becomes completely shallow. But this can happen no earlier than after 10-25 years of operation. Moreover, the operating time does not depend on the depth of the mine, but on the thickness of the aquifer.

Please note that the well is always subject to seasonal shallowing. During prolonged drought, its level always decreases. When the rainy season arrives, moisture rises again to its usual level. Sometimes it goes away completely due to serious geological developments taking place in the area, or changes in seismological activity, but such cases are very rare.

In most cases, the cause of shallowing is siltation. Over time, the debris that settles to the bottom turns into silt, which clogs the vein and the inflow decreases. For uninterrupted water supply to the dacha from the well, it requires periodic cleaning (boosting). We described it in detail above.

If cleaning hardly helped, but moisture still began to flow in a little, this means that the ducts themselves have silted up. They are washed with water from the tank. Moisture seeping into the aquifer will clean the springs well.

When extracting part of the aquifer, the well can be dug, that is, the water intake can be lowered a little lower. Teach that such deepening must be done wisely. Don't throw it away at the first trickle of water. But lowering to too great a depth is undesirable. Otherwise, you will cover possible fontanelles with concrete rings. Excavation is carried out more often on 3-4 rings.

It is not worth deepening wells with quicksand - in this case it is unlikely to achieve an increase in inflow.

Any person associates the words “country house” or “dacha” with clean air, fruits and vegetables with own garden. Almost everyone imagines themselves lying in a hammock or lounge chair away from the bustle of the city in the shade of trees with a glass of ice-cold well water. Unfortunately, in a village or town it happens that almost the only source drinking water is a column or the same central water supply. How can we find a way out of this situation? To the question: “How to dig a well and do it correctly?” This article will help answer.

A little theory

When you mention a well, thoughts immediately come to mind about how water appears under layers of soil. It falls into the ground from the sky, that is, in the form of various precipitation: rain, hail and snow. Rain and melt water only partially flows into streams, and then into other bodies of water: rivers, streams and lakes. The main mass seeps into the ground through the porous layers of the earth and, under the influence of a certain gravitational force, falls down to a certain place - the waterproof layer. A barrier to water becomes a layer of upper layers of soil compressed to almost complete impermeability: clay, loam and rock. A water “pocket” is formed in this area; if you dig a well (the Moscow region is an excellent place for this) correctly, water will flow into it.

Although the waterproof layer is considered an insurmountable resistance to water, some of the liquid seeps through it, because it is not a solid monolith. A natural “barrier” has micropores through which water passes to the next layer and so on. Therefore, several aquifers may lie in one area and at different depths. But for those who are interested in the question of how to dig a well with their own hands, this should not be a problem.

Aquifers

Aquifers are divided into several types according to their depth:

Verkhodka is a layer of water that forms at the very top waterproof layer of the earth. It is located at a shallow depth, and the water that got into it has not yet had time to be properly purified, so it is not suitable for use. The water level of the upper layer fluctuates, and in the heat it can even dry out completely. Summer residents often use it for watering, irrigation and other needs: for this they dig small holes in which perched water accumulates. When the question arises of how to properly dig a well, it is necessary to take into account that the top water must be isolated as much as possible, that is, it must be ensured that it never gets into the well.
Groundwater is the second layer, lying at a depth that perfectly filters water to the point where it can be consumed. Exactly groundwater serve as the basis for filling wells. Water passing through tens of meters of porous soil is perfectly purified from contaminants and at the same time saturated with the minerals it contains. Well liquid is considered the purest, and its unique taste is unique to each area. It may taste different even in two adjacent wells.
Artesian waters are found at very great depths. Those who know how to dig a well in a dacha understand that in order to get to artesian waters, you need to drill special wells. Deep water is under strong pressure from the soil layers, and therefore liquid can flow through the well on its own, even without the use of pumps.

Types of wells

What is a well? This is a wide shaft that reaches underground water suitable for human consumption, that is, it can be called groundwater in another way. Typically, such reservoirs are no more than 10 meters deep, but there are still old wells that go 20-30 meters into the ground.

There are various types of wells, the most common being mine or key wells. The type of structure directly depends on the depth of the aquifer, therefore, before you dig a well yourself, you need to find out at what specific depth this layer is located in a given area.

For the construction of a key well, the main condition is the presence of water springs on the site, which flow from the ground or fall from the slope. In the area where water is released, a water structure of a descending or ascending type is installed.

It is believed that construction using this method is the fastest, simplest and cheapest method of constructing a well. Its depth does not exceed 2 meters. If we compare the well with concrete rings, their height is completely the same.

The depth of mine wells can reach 15 meters, because they are designed for the extraction of deep-sea deposits. The design of a mine well varies. If the bottom of the reservoir is at the lowest level of the aquifer, then it is called perfect. It turns out that the name of the well depends on how the well is dug, and if its bottom only touches an underwater reservoir of water and the water enters through the walls of the well, then it is called imperfect.

Mine wells also differ in water volumes. Advanced structures are necessary for large-scale water production and consumption. And types such as imperfect wells are used to satisfy small and standard household needs. You can dig such a reservoir various shapes. It depends on the material from which the walls of the mine will be built. Square wells are formed from brick and wood, and round shafts are formed from concrete rings, respectively. They are more popular and suitable for novice builders who do not know how to dig a well in their country house with their own hands. However, you can learn this by reading this article.

The process of digging a well with your own hands

You can dig a well with your own hands, although it is a rather labor-intensive process. It consists of two stages:

digging a hole to the required depth;
lowering concrete rings into it one after another using a car or hand winch.

First, a small pit is dug, about half a meter deep, its diameter equal to the outer width of the concrete ring. A ring is installed in the pit. Next, the digger needs to climb inside and remove the soil in a circle, while simultaneously digging up the walls of the ring. The concrete circle, under the influence of its gravity, will sink lower and lower. As soon as its edge is level with the ground, a second concrete ring must be installed on it, and the digging process must be continued. The second ring is followed by a third and so on. For those who do not know how to dig a well on their own, this algorithm of actions will come in handy.

The standard height of the ring is about a meter, so the construction of a well of such structures will take about 10-15 pieces. To create a more durable unit, it is necessary to fasten all the rings with special staples, which must subsequently be painted with oil paint. Preparing the hole ends with digging the soil in the aquifer, which is the most labor-intensive work. In addition, the digging process is further complicated by the fact that water constantly enters the pit and turns the soil into a liquid mass, which is best pumped out with a mud pump.

Important points when digging a well

The most difficult process is actually digging the earth. This must be done using a shovel with a small handle, and this is not at all easy. Plus, next to the digger there should be a container for soil, in particular a bucket with a rope, since soil must be removed constantly. There should also be a device nearby for constantly rising water.

How to quickly dig a well? This issue must be approached with all seriousness and great responsibility. It is advisable to start constructing a well between January and March, when the groundwater level is quite low.

When the required depth of the well is reached, it is necessary to equip a filter pad made of fine crushed stone with a height of about 30 cm. This device prevents rapid flooding of the well.

It is important to remember that digging a well is a very dirty job. It is necessary to stand knee-deep in damp and cold earth, when pieces of earth and water from a constantly raised bucket fall on top of you. You need to measure your strength and remember about your health. For some, it’s easier to immediately hire a team of builders and specialists.

When digging a well, it is important to follow basic safety standards, here are some of them:

It is advisable to carry out all work wearing a protective helmet;
Before going down into the well, it is necessary to check the strength of the rope ladder, as well as all fastenings and devices for lifting water and soil from the bottom of the well.

The final stage of constructing a well

Upon completion of all work, it is necessary to decorate the upper part of the well. Usually the head is covered with wooden boards or logs; this is done to protect the water from contamination. A well can be made attractive decorative element on a summer cottage, which can only transform it. For example, you can build a house or a mill over it.

Required tools and materials

Having decided how to dig a well, you need to stock up the right tools and devices, here are the main ones:

standard and sapper shovels;
buckets;
lifting device and tripod;
chain and rope ladder;
a special wooden device in the form of a shelf made of boards and logs for delivering concrete rings.

What is quicksand

Quicksand is a mixture of sand with clay and small river pebbles. It can spread and float, especially under mechanical influence, like ordinary water.

Most big problem quicksand is delivered to well diggers. Therefore, before starting work, you need to find out how to dig a well in quicksand, since it is unlikely that it will be possible to build a good structure in this place.

A well on a quicksand can supply water for a while, but it must be cleaned frequently. When deepening and cleaning such a well, distortion of the concrete rings may occur, since the surrounding sandy soil is buoyant and mobile.

The water on quicksand is subject to seasonal fluctuations, that is, in summer its level may drop, and in winter it may even freeze, or it may disappear completely, so it is not advisable to deepen the well.

Sewage wells

These wells are important elements external sewerage. Therefore, such a problem as digging a sewer well is quite simple to solve. You can do this yourself, without resorting to the help of specialists, whose services are quite expensive.

There are the following types of sewer wells:

Inspection wells, which serve to view and monitor the operation of the entire sewer network and clear blockages. They are constructed only with a significant pipeline length.
Rotary wells are installed at pipeline turning points and can also serve as inspection wells.
Drop structures are installed in places where pipes drop due to the complex terrain of the soil.
Nodal. The construction of such water units is not possible everywhere. How to understand that a well is dug in the right place? This is quite simple - they are built at the distribution points of node systems.
Storage and filtration wells used for wastewater. They are designed for cleaning and accumulation. They are installed at the end of the pipeline system in places where there will be convenient access for a sewer truck.

The material for sewer wells can be concrete or reinforced concrete, brick and rubble stone, plastic or wood. The work process is no different from digging a storage facility for drinking water, so it is better to figure out in advance the question of how to dig a well.

Signs that the water source is close to the surface

Before determining the location of the well, you can use some signs to understand that the water reservoir is at a shallow depth, here are some signs:

in the spring, especially during the period of snow melting, basements are flooded with water;
very often thick fog forms in this area;
not far from the dacha there are bodies of water: rivers or lakes;
the surface of the earth may be covered with moss;
In dry, hot summers, thick grass grows near the water.

During the operation of a well, its maintenance is of great importance, because it must be constantly kept clean, since various debris can get inside, and this will lead to a deterioration in the quality of well water.

To prevent pets from accessing the well, a protective structure can be built around it. If for some reason an animal gets into the well, you need to pump out the water and clean it of foreign objects. After this, disinfection must be done. You can use a three percent chlorine solution, which is added to water and applied to the walls of the well. After these procedures, the well is closed and left for a day. Then the walls are thoroughly washed and the water is pumped out again until the smell of bleach completely disappears.

The steps described above will tell you how to dig a well with your own hands, keep it in excellent condition, and also provide everyone with tasty well drinking water.

If there is no uninterrupted source of water at the dacha, not only everyday difficulties arise, but also difficulties with watering the plantings. The problem can be solved by installing a well on the site, which will allow access to excellent quality water in unlimited quantities.

Optimal time for digging a well - summer and early autumn, when groundwater is low. Due to the low water level, the likelihood of making a mistake with the depth of the well is minimized.

How to choose a place for a well

It is necessary to dig a well where deep underground waters come closest to the surface. There are certain methods that will allow you to determine the desired point:

relief analysis;
fog monitoring;
study of vegetation;
dowsing;
exploratory well drilling.

Relief analysis

As a rule, groundwater lies closest to the surface in those areas where depressions and lowlands are located. But you shouldn’t dig a well on a hill, since the water at this point is most likely deep. The effectiveness of the method is about 40%.

Fog watching

If thick fog appears in a certain area on hot evenings, this most likely indicates the close occurrence of groundwater. The accuracy of the method is 75%.

Vegetation study

There are certain types of plants that grow in the wettest areas. First of all this:

coltsfoot;
whine;
sedge.

In addition, trees such as:

alder;
birch;

Dowsing

It is necessary to take two half-meter pieces of straight brass wire with a diameter of 2 mm and bend each of them at a right angle, departing 10 cm from the end, thus making handles.

The resulting devices should be picked up without squeezing them tightly, so that the wires can rotate freely, and walk around the area with them. If they move, it means that water is nearby, and if they start to spin, a good place for a well has been found.

Well drilling

A well up to 10 m deep, which can be drilled using an ordinary garden tool. Borax will help determine whether the water at a given point is close to the surface.

Since none of these methods gives a 100% guarantee, it is better to use several methods in combination. This approach allows you to determine the best place to dig a well with maximum accuracy. You definitely need to know.

You should also remember that you cannot build a well near sewer lines, cesspools, toilets and barnyards. The distance to such objects should be at least 50 meters.

Choosing a well type

There are two main types of wells:

mine,
tubular.

A shaft well is dug using a shovel, and a tubular well is drilled using special drilling equipment, which is expensive.

You can only build a shaft well yourself.

Construction of a shaft well

Any well consists of three main parts:

head;
trunk;
reservoir (reservoir).

A catch basin is a reservoir located at the bottom of a well in which water is collected.

The shaft is the well shaft itself, which must be strengthened to prevent the soil from collapsing. In earlier times, trunks were usually made square in cross-section and reinforced with logs; today, round trunks are most often dug and reinforced with concrete rings.

The cap is a structure located at ground level that protects the well from dirt and precipitation, prevents it from freezing, and also makes water intake as convenient as possible.

Preparation

The well must be dug manually.

Required Tools

In order to dig a well, you will need:

a shovel with a short handle (you can’t turn around with a long one in a narrow well shaft);
jackhammer for breaking up hard soil;
buckets for lifting soil;
device for lifting buckets to the surface;
a ladder of sufficient length that will reach the bottom of the well;
pump for pumping out water during work;
flashlight (the most convenient is a flashlight that is mounted on your head).

Digging cost calculation

Since all work on digging a mine can be done on your own, the cost of a well consists only of the price of the necessary tools and consumables.

The only major expense may be hiring a crane to install the concrete rings. But with the closed method of digging, the rings can be installed without the use of special equipment, and to lay the rings when digging a well in the open way, you can use a tripod with a winch.

Safety precautions

You should not dig a well alone. There should always be someone nearby, on the surface, who can help in case of unforeseen complications.

In addition, underground you should be prepared for a variety of surprises, in particular, there is a risk of stumbling upon a gas accumulation. You can check whether the space is too heavily gassed using a torch: if it goes out, it means that the gas level is too high. Using a fan or vacuum cleaner you can organize “ventilation”.

During your stay in the mine, you must wear a protective helmet.

Digging a well

Choosing a digging method

In areas with dense soil, digging is carried out using an open method. The open method of digging a mine has a number of advantages:

provides maximum comfort at work;
makes it easy to deal with obstacles such as boulders.

But if the soil is loose (contains a lot of sand and crushed stone), the well must be dug using a closed method. Advantages of this type of digging:

minimum volume earthworks;
you can do without a tripod with a winch or the use of special equipment (crane);
the integrity of the soil is almost not compromised, the walls of the mine cannot crumble.

In order to choose a digging method, it is enough to dig a meter-deep hole at the site of the future well. If its walls hold well, an open method is suitable; if they crumble, a closed method is suitable.

However, if the open method was initially chosen, but after deepening a certain distance the walls began to crumble, it will be difficult and unsafe to continue working. In this case, it will be necessary to switch to a closed method of digging a mine.

Digging a well in an open way

In order to dig a well in an open way, you must:

dig a shaft of the required depth, its diameter should be 10–20 cm greater than the diameter of the concrete rings to strengthen the walls;
lower the rings into the shaft and fasten them together;
fill the gap between the walls of the shaft and the rings with sand;
seal the seams between the rings.

in our time and what are its features?

The artificial light of conventional lamps can tire you. Daylight sources are much preferable! They are described in detail.

The release of radioactive substances is a very dangerous industrial disaster. The link contains information that will help you protect yourself from the negative effects of radiation.

Closed digging

The process of digging a well using a closed method is somewhat more complicated:

at the site of the future well, it is necessary to dig a hole of the depth that the soil allows (as a rule, this is a depth of 0.5 to 2 m);
place the first ring in the hole;
deepen the hole;
as you deepen, the first ring will fall down under its own weight, the second must be placed on top of it, then the third, fourth, and so on;
after reaching the aquifer, the last ring should be installed, which will rise above ground level;
The final stage arrangement of the trunk - sealing the seams between the concrete rings.

The final stage of well construction is the construction of the head and installation of all necessary equipment.

At the right approach It is not difficult to equip a well on a site, and anyone can do it on their own. The main thing is to carry out all work, as they say, according to science and strictly observe safety measures. And the finished well should be cleaned periodically so that the water in it remains clean and fresh for many years.