Most difficult task in agricultural work is preparing the land for planting. This applies to both a small garden and a large plot. But there is nowhere to go, we have to dig a garden to plant a crop. A wide variety of agricultural tools are used for digging.

For many years, a shovel and a pitchfork were used to dig up the garden, but recently new devices have been invented that make the hard work of summer residents and gardeners easier. Let's figure out which gardening tool is the most effective and allows you to dig up a garden quickly and easily.

Regular shovel

In order to dig up a garden, many people still use a shovel. Although this is the most common equipment, it is still not particularly easy to use. When digging a garden, you have to make an effort, but if you dig large area, then by the evening you may not straighten up. This is because when working with a shovel, your back muscles become tense, and this can negatively affect your overall well-being.

A shovel is most suitable for sandy soils; digging black soil is very difficult. The downside is the weight of the shovel; if you buy a shovel made of titanium, it will be much easier and more convenient to work with.

Regular pitchforks

Another equally well-known garden tool that is used for digging up soil is the fork. They are most conveniently used for digging up black soil. Unlike a shovel, a fork removes weeds completely, leaving no roots behind. Thanks to the wide arrangement of teeth, the worms are not destroyed. The disadvantages of forks and shovels are the small digging area, the load on the arms, back and legs; only healthy and hardy men can dig with them.

Miracle shovel ripper "Mole"

Currently, the production of agricultural machinery is so developed that it is not necessary to bend your back to cultivate your plot.

This is why they invented excellent remedy, like a miracle shovel ripper Mole. It is twice as wide as a bayonet shovel. It consists of two forks, which loosen the ground when digging. There is no need to apply force when digging. There is no big load on the back. Greater productivity than when working with a conventional shovel or fork.

When working with a regular shovel, you need to constantly lift it with the ground, but you don’t need to do that here. To dig a miracle with a shovel using a ripper, you only need to apply force with your foot, there is no load on your back. After digging, there are no lumps left, so there is no need to go through with a rake. Not only men, but also women can use the miracle shovel.

Disadvantages of the miracle shovel ripper "Mole"

An ordinary shovel is used both for digging up the ground and for planting. The miracle shovel is used only for digging; it cannot be used to make indentations and dig around trees.

Ripper "Super-Digger 7"

There is another agricultural tool that makes working on the site easier. This is the Super-Digger 7 ripper. It is as easy to use as the “Mole” shovel, and is distinguished by the use of two handles. Otherwise it performs the same functions as the miracle shovel.

The only difference is that the emphasis is placed with two hands, which is much more convenient. Between the cuttings there is a jumper on which the emphasis is placed, called a handle. The most important thing is to set the handle height correctly before starting work. So that later it will be convenient to work.

Using a super digger allows you to quickly and easily dig up the ground without compromising your health. The main advantage of both the miracle shovel and the super digger is the affordable price.

Agricultural machinery

To quickly and easily dig up a plot, many people use agricultural machinery. Lately, many people have been purchasing a motorized cultivator that can plow a field in just a few hours. large plot land. But here you need to decide which one is better to choose.

If you have a small plot of land, you can purchase an electric cultivator that even a woman can operate. For large area It’s better to buy a gasoline-powered cultivator. To quickly process the area, walk-behind tractors are also used. But a walk-behind tractor has many more functions than a cultivator.

With the help of a walk-behind tractor, you can plant and harvest potatoes, mow grass, dig and hill up soil, and transport the harvested crop from the garden. The only disadvantage of agricultural machinery is the price, so give preference to more affordable and new models for manual work.

Create conditions for yourself that will make you happy to work in your garden.

How to properly dig soil with a shovel?

Only at first glance it seems that digging with a shovel is a fairly simple process, but, admittedly, not a quick one. But actually it is not. The presence of aching calluses and lower back pain after working with a shovel is a consequence of violation of the correct digging technique. This article will tell you about the rules for using a shovel and how to quickly dig a hole yourself and many other nuances.

Correct technique

You need to dig correctly if only to make the whole process much easier and faster.

As a child, many people saw how to use a shovel. The basic movements remain the same, but you need to pay attention to one main point - you cannot lift the instrument from the ground using your wrists. You need to try to hook the end of the handle with your elbow, thereby giving an additional impulse, which will reduce the load on the person’s back and joints. Following this simple rule, you can dig up a large vegetable garden without any problems.

During the entire working process, the back must remain straight, and the center of gravity must be in the middle, otherwise in the morning you can wake up sick and weak.

The position of the leading hand can be alternately changed while maintaining the necessary balance.

This technique becomes especially useful and necessary during large-scale and lengthy work, for example, when it is necessary to dig up a garden or remove large volumes of snow in winter time of the year.

Subtleties

The most important nuance is correct selection tool - you need to choose it yourself for yourself. If the shovel is too big and heavy, then subsequent pain in the back and throughout the body is inevitable. If the length of the handle reaches the elbow when it is stuck into the ground about 20-25 cm, then it is selected correctly and for the height of the person.

The bayonet of the tool must be sharp and well sharpened for easier penetration into the soil.

It is best to take not a square shovel, but a rounded one, since the latter option cuts through the ground better.

It is not necessary that the angle of the bayonet to the soil during penetration should be straight - it all depends on the purpose of the digging. To loosen the soil, 45 degrees, shallow penetration and scrolling movements are sufficient. Movements at right angles are best done when digging a trench or hole.

Most shovels can be sharpened easily with coarse sandpaper. There are other ways to sharpen a shovel: using a knife and a rasp.

How to dig up an overgrown area?

The instrument itself plays an important role in this matter. It is best to purchase a model made of titanium and a non-classical shape, the so-called miracle shovel. This tool is great for loosening or digging up the soil layer. It consists of an iron frame, on opposite sides of which there are fork bars, directed one towards the other.

This simple device works as follows: Some forks penetrate the ground, and the second are a lever for them. The frame serves as a support for two pairs of forks.

With a miracle shovel you can loosen the soil in much less time than with the simple option. In addition, another advantage is the fact that when loosening the soil in this way, you can get rid of weeds.

Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting the following point: with a miracle shovel you cannot dig a hole or cultivate wetlands.

How to dig a hole?

This special digging technique is used by soldiers to quickly and efficiently dig trenches. They use a compact sapper shovel.

The basis of this technique is that you need to cut the soil of a small thickness - 3-4 cm. Such small sections are easier to dig up and throw further than a full joint of soil.

You can work with this technique for several hours and dig more than one hole without much fatigue.

Any soil, including clay and peat, is easily amenable to this digging method.

How to properly dig frozen ground?

It is no secret that domestic winters can be quite severe, and the ground, like most bodies of water, freezes to a considerable depth.

There are several ways to dig a hole from frozen soil.

1. The first and proven method is quite easy to use, but can take quite a lot of time. Before digging, you need to make a fire in the place of the pit. After waiting for it to go out, you should start digging. After it is removed upper layer, you need to light the fire again in the hole and continue digging to the required depth.
2. Another proven method is to use a jackhammer. If it is not possible to purchase a jackhammer, you can rent one. Using a jackhammer, it is enough to remove only the top frozen layer of soil, and then you should continue working with a shovel.
3. The next method is to use a pickaxe. It is a hand-held percussion tool specifically designed for working with dense and even rocky soil. But a pickaxe alone will not be enough - you need a shovel.

The modern garden tool market offers many various models shovels: gardening, construction, loading and unloading. Each of the varieties has its own characteristic features that make this or that job much easier and faster.

In conclusion, it is worth noting that most of the recommendations and rules can be used when working with pitchforks. In some cases, they can also serve as a shovel, but with one difference: while a shovel cuts the ground, a fork is more likely to break it off.

You can watch the video below to learn how to properly dig the ground with a shovel.

Do I need to dig up my garden in the fall? We understand the intricacies of autumn digging

Adding an article to a new collection

After a busy summer season, I want to relax as soon as possible and, if possible, reduce the list of work. One of them - digging up the earth in the fall - was until recently carried out by all gardeners and was considered very important.

And now the question increasingly arises: is this really a necessary procedure, is it worth spending time and effort on it, or can you get by with just spring digging? So, let's finally find out whether it is necessary to dig up the garden in the fall and understand all the intricacies of this work.

Preparing beds in the fall for the new season is one of the most important conditions for obtaining a rich harvest. Over the winter, the soil is saturated with minerals that were added during digging. Snow saturates the beds with moisture faster, while the dug-up soil itself does not become compacted. As a result, in the spring it is much easier to carry out preparatory work before planting. Significantly save energy and time. But that’s not all the advantages of digging!

Why dig up the soil in the garden - the advantages of the procedure

Have summer residents really made a mistake for decades when they started digging with a shovel in the fall? To be fair, it doesn't. Digging has many advantages, some of which are quite obvious, while others are not so noticeable, but also make their useful contribution. So, digging is useful because:

• during work it is easier to apply the necessary mineral and organic fertilizers, to deoxidize the soil, the effect of these procedures will increase many times;
• weeds will not have a chance to have a free winter, and their seeds will not have a chance to develop further, due to the fact that they will be deep in the soil;
• garden pests and their larvae, pathogenic bacteria, once on the surface, quickly die from cold, wind or exposure to chemicals, and birds are not averse to feasting on insects;
• the soil becomes looser, water- and air-permeable, is more easily saturated with moisture during the winter and does not become too compacted, and warms up faster in the spring;
• it becomes possible to clear the area of ​​weeds, leaves, stones and other debris, which creates many problems in the spring.

As you can see, digging is important and brings many benefits. But where there are pros, there will always be cons.

Is it necessary to dig up the soil in the fall in the garden - the disadvantages of digging

Now let’s look at the disadvantages of digging up the soil, and why adherents of organic farming dislike it so much.

Soil is a home for many living organisms, and each of them has its own place in this “kingdom”. When digging, not only harmful inhabitants appear on the surface, but also useful ones, those thanks to which the soil maintains its fertility. By depriving the beds of “good” bacteria and insects, we thereby impoverish the soil. But restoring soil fertility, alas, is not easy.

There is also a possibility that the weed seeds will still survive under the soil layer and safely overwinter until spring. In addition, with deep and frequent digging, a less nutritious layer of soil rises to the surface, the structure of the soil is disrupted, and it loses its physical properties.

And finally, digging is hard work, which has a bad effect on the back, heart and overall health if the summer resident is not very physically prepared. Mechanized digging also requires significant effort and preparation.

When do you really need to dig up your garden?

As you can see, there are quite a few pros and cons to digging. But in reality, it all depends on two factors: the type of soil on the site and the climate in your region. In other words, the disadvantages will clearly manifest themselves if you dig where it is not needed at all, and vice versa.

If the soil on the site is heavy, clayey and uncultivated, then digging in the fall is highly desirable. But loose and light soils can simply be loosened. Sandy soil only needs spring treatment.

In regions with a hot climate, the soil is drier and does not require frequent digging, but in humid and cold areas of the country this procedure is necessary because... Under the influence of natural conditions, the soil becomes compacted and becomes unsuitable for growing cultivated plants. And although adherents of organic farming often cite the example of forest ecosystems, where everything grows on its own without digging and fertilizers, we should not forget that varietal and hybrid vegetables are unable to survive in such conditions. In other words, to obtain a harvest, certain conditions are needed, which are created on personal plots. Therefore, first of all, monitor the condition of the soil and plants.

When is the best time to dig up a vegetable garden - timing

We hope you are convinced that tillage in the fall is still necessary. But not every summer resident knows how and when to dig up a garden to get a positive effect. This should be done after harvesting, when late-ripening crops and all plant debris have been removed. It is advisable to carry out the work before the end of October - beginning of November, depending on weather conditions. You shouldn’t delay the work too much so that the first frost doesn’t set the soil. Ideally, if you can finish digging before heavy rains.

How to properly dig up the soil in the fall in the garden

Depending on the crop that will be planted in next year, select the appropriate soil digging depth:

• 25-30 cm (per spade blade) – for potatoes, beets, carrots, pumpkins, melons and parsley;
• 5-10 cm – for tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, radishes and legumes.

It is advisable not to turn the soil layers over, but to transfer them among themselves in order to preserve as much beneficial microflora as possible. It is better to remove the roots of weeds rather than bury them. It is much easier to carry out such digging. But if the soil is very hard and rocky, you will have to do two-tier digging with two shovels. And here it is no longer possible to do without turning over the layers of soil. But resorting to such digging should only be done as a last resort.

A shovel, fork or cultivator are suitable tools for digging.

Shovel. Used on small plots of up to 10 acres. A budget option that will cope well with different types of soil, but is quite labor-intensive.

Pitchfork. They allow you to achieve a finer soil structure, which young plants like, but is not always achieved with a shovel. It also requires effort.

Cultivator. The soil quickly becomes loose, plant roots feel great in it. It will save time and effort when working on a large area, but it will not cope with very heavy soils, and it is not cheap.

If the garden requires digging, but there is no way to do it, sow green manure. They will loosen the soil to a depth of 2 m, saturate it with useful elements and reduce the activity of pathogenic microflora. And in winter they will hold snow well and prevent the beds from freezing.

Whether to dig a garden in the fall is up to each summer resident to decide for himself. If you have heavy clay soil on your site, then it is better to dig, but if it is loose and light, you can only get by with a spring procedure, replacing autumn digging with deep loosening. To reduce the load on soil microflora, dig once every few years as necessary.

Quick digging of a vegetable garden with your own hands using improvised means

In our country, owning a plot of land is a hobby, income, and sometimes a means of survival. You can actually grow organic food on it, and this is very important these days. But as a rule, the harvest begins with properly digging up the area for planting. Not everyone and not everywhere has the opportunity to hire equipment for this, and often a shovel or fork is the only tool that will help you with this. What if your plot is virgin land? Is it possible to dig it up yourself and not injure your health? These are the options for shovels for different soils that we will now discuss.

Choosing the right tool

If you want to know how to quickly dig up a garden, then thanks to this article you can find a lot of interesting things. Fortunately, our land on the Kulibins has not yet become impoverished; they are constantly inventing simple improvements for shovels or forks, with the help of which digging up the earth becomes not such a labor-intensive task for health.

Pitchfork.

For digging purposes, as a rule, forks are used - digging forks; they have shorter teeth and are forged. In addition, after the fork there are no large lumps of earth left that still need to be broken up. And part of the soil passes through their teeth and there will be no need to lift excess soil. Many new models have been invented based on forks, with which digging will be possible even for pensioners or people with disabilities.

For clay or damp soils, a pitchfork is just what you need. Excess soil will not stick to them, and it will be much easier to simply stick them into such soils. If the area is heavily overgrown, it is also better to choose a pitchfork for digging. They will go into the ground much easier, and the weeds will be pulled out along with the roots, rather than cutting them off like shovels. From the remains of these roots a new weed will certainly grow. And the pitchfork will remove it, as they say, “by the roots.”

When deep, two-tier digging with loosening the lower layers of the earth, a pitchfork is also indispensable. Still, simple pitchforks are good in small areas or in hard-to-reach corners, but for large spaces many devices based on them were invented, which we will talk about below.

Shovels.

Now we’ll learn how to quickly dig up a garden with a shovel. For better penetration into the soil, especially virgin soil, regular sharpening is required. And besides digging, a shovel will serve you when digging holes or ditches. But still, as a rule, after shoveling, you will need to further process the area with a pitchfork. And the most reliable shovel option is a titanium one, especially on clay, virgin or rocky soils.

For a properly selected shovel, for minimal effort on your part, the handle should reach your elbow when the blade is immersed 20-25 cm into the ground. There are shovels with a special grip; it will be convenient especially for those people who have weak fingers. It is easier to dig with a rounded blade; it penetrates the ground better than a straight blade.

"Mole" is a miracle - a shovel.

It was the desire to ease the hard work of digging the ground that led to the emergence of a large number of different devices based on ordinary shovels or forks, there are even hybrid models. The mole is precisely one of these new phenomena in the processing of plots.

It consists of two counter forks with a width of 43-55 cm and a number of teeth of 6-9. The working (moving) teeth are attached to a frame on which the second teeth are made motionless (according to the principle of jaw operation). And a foot rest is also attached to the bed for ease of work.

So, you tilt the handle first towards you, and then down.

During the second movement, the movable forks are driven through the second layer of soil, while it is loosened and freed from weeds. When properly dug, the layers of earth do not mix with each other. This is exactly what happens when working with Mole - the top layer of soil does not move anywhere, but at the same time it is perfectly loosened.

The Mole itself weighs about 4.5 kg, but you won’t feel this weight while working, nor will you feel a significant load on your back. You can simply drag this miracle shovel around the site without lifting it. But precisely because of its weight, it simplifies the insertion of a working tool into the soil.

By saving energy, you can increase the area of ​​the excavated area. With such a shovel, it is quite possible to cultivate 1-2 acres of land in 1 hour, and at the same time practically not get tired. For women or elderly summer residents, such a shovel is simply a godsend.

But this option is good for digging up already cultivated flower beds or beds; it is not entirely suitable for virgin soil. It will also not be very convenient in a greenhouse; its handle is still a bit high.

Ripper Excavator.

The Zemlekop also retains the principle of double forks. But he also has differences from Mole:

• 2 handles are connected into one on the handle.
• The footrest has been increased, which has increased the area being processed.
• the counter forks are fastened with a hinge and both are movable; there is simply no fixed frame.

In general, the principle of operation of the Excavator is almost identical to the work of the Mole. But due to the wider working part, it is great for large areas, for example, under a potato plantation, but for narrow beds It won't be very convenient.

Shovel Tornado.

Another variety of Mole with a similar operating principle. In addition to shovels, this brand produces quite a few gardening tools.

For example, the Tornado ripper, it is already quite famous among gardeners. This is a long pin with rounded handles on one end and sharp teeth on the other that twist clockwise.

It perfectly loosens the soil to a depth of 20 cm. And the handle can be adjusted to any height of the person working with it.

It is quite compact, which gives it advantages in small or inconvenient areas, under trees or bushes, while in large spaces it is better not to use it.

Miracle - rotating forks.

We can say that this is a more advanced version from Tornado. The handle is the same T-shaped, which is also adjustable to suit any height. But at the bottom there are forks attached to the handle, they are stuck into the ground and the handle is turned like a lever. When working with it, your back and legs practically do not get tired, but on heavy or rocky soil it will be completely uncomfortable to work with it.

Fokina flat cutter.

If you don’t know how to dig up a garden overgrown with grass, then the tips in this publication will be useful. The following instrument has been known since the end of the last century. It gained popularity and love due to its lightness and versatility.

They can perform the following types of work:

• hilling.
• groove cutting various sizes for different needs.
• loosening the soil.
• formation of ridges.
• crushing large lumps of soil.
• removing weeds.

There are several options for flat cutters based on blade sizes. If you have several different ones, you can process both large tracts and small secluded or inconvenient corners of your garden.

Hand cultivator.

In general, cultivators are designed for digging, loosening and creating beds on plots. There are 3 types of them:

• root removers.
• star or rotary.
• rippers.

The axis of the star version is equipped with several star-shaped rippers. As soon as you press down and start moving the unit, these rippers will begin to rotate and loosen the soil and at the same time remove weeds.

But on heavy clay soils, such a cultivator is unlikely to please you with its efficiency. Here you will need a cultivator - ripper. It has several short-toothed curved shapes mounted on it. So they will save your energy when developing clayey area. And root removers are ideal for spot loosening the soil, for removing weeds that have deep and powerful roots, and for preparing holes for planting.

Ideal depth when digging up a site

Now you know what you can use to dig up your garden. Now it is important to talk about other points. There has long been an opinion that the optimal depth is at the bayonet of a shovel, that is, 20-25 cm. More modern farmers believe that 4-5 cm will be quite sufficient and natural. This is enough for sowing seeds, and the roots themselves will then go deeper to the depth they need. But with this approach it will be necessary to mulch the plantings 10-15 cm thick

But when cultivating virgin soil, you will have to dig up the area properly for the first time, at least to remove the deep rhizomes of weeds, which will noticeably deprive the cultivated plants that you plant.

Quick and easy digging of the site

To cope with this task with minimal effort on your part, the algorithm of actions should be as follows:

• Use pegs and string to mark the required area of ​​the site.
• On one side of the perimeter, a trench is made the width and depth of a spade bayonet.
• The soil from the ditch must be immediately cleared of stones, debris and weeds.
• Such soil is stored in a separate place for further use.
• Now, parallel to the first groove, we dig a second one. We put the earth from it in the first groove.
• We continue this way until the end of the marked area.
• We load the deposited soil from the first groove into the last groove.

Fast cultivation of virgin soil

This is land that has not been cultivated for ten years or more. The turf grows over the years and makes it much more difficult to cultivate such a neglected area. Sowing and caring for plantings without first cultivating the soil will be a fruitless effort. But console yourself with the thought that the soil, which has rested over these years, has accumulated nutrients and will gladly put them into your harvest, after its cultivation, of course.

Among the fastest options for cultivating virgin soil, we can recommend raised beds. We lay cardboard in the desired area of ​​the virgin soil, and pour herbicides into the spaces between the rows. Now we pour fertile soil onto the cardboard and sow seeds or plant seedlings.

The method is fast, but expensive on the budget, because fertile land will have to be purchased, perhaps more than one car. If you still have time, try another option. Cover the required area with cardboard, press it down with a weight and leave it for the whole summer. Under the cardboard, all the green mass will rot and rot, and in the fall the area can be cultivated with any of the shovels or pitchforks described above. Or you can cut out layers of turf and immediately turn them over with the grass facing down. Potatoes can be planted in the gaps between the pastes, and after germination they are mulched generously with organic matter. In the fall, you will harvest the potatoes, and the plot will already be prepared for normal cultivation next year.

Making the right beds

It is not necessary to strain yourself on the site, trying to bring it into “working” condition in one day. Some current advice on this topic will reduce your labor costs:

1. Do not walk on a freshly dug area, especially if seeds have already been sown there. And also protect it from trampling by children or pets.
2. And it’s better to dig it up in several steps, especially if you haven’t exerted much physical effort all winter.
3. Stick the shovel into the ground perpendicular to it, then it will easily go into the required depth, that is, the entire bayonet.
4. And don’t try to remove as much earth as possible with a shovel, your back won’t last that long. It is better then to take less land, but more often.
5. It is better not to start digging immediately after the snow melts, because even if the ground has thawed, it is still very wet, which means it is heavy. Wait a few days for it to dry out a little.

Digging a heavily overgrown area.

Don't be afraid, you don't have to raise virgin soil. It is enough to spray the area with herbicides, and then, after a few weeks, dig it up. And after another week, apply mineral fertilizers to it and loosen it. Now you can start planting on it.

If you need to dig up a frozen area.

It is better, of course, not to perform such feats, but there are such life circumstances that there is simply no other way. Then we will give you some detailed advice on this topic:

• Build a fire on in the right place. The earth will warm up, thaw, and then it will be possible to dig it up.
• Use a jackhammer or a pick to remove the still frozen surface of the soil, then the soil that is no longer frozen will go, it can be dug up normally.
• Autumn digging of the site. Is it really necessary?

Some gardeners do not know the answer to the question of whether it is necessary to dig up the soil in the fall. Now, if you just purchased your plot in the fall, and it is in a state of virgin soil, then it simply needs autumn digging. AND The best way- dig it up in larger layers and you can leave it like that for the winter. Frosty cold will perfectly penetrate the cracks between clods of earth and destroy the roots or seeds of weeds. And when digging, it is better to immediately add phosphorus preparations to the soil; in the spring, your plantings will really need them.

Another advantage of autumn digging is that after it the earth will be well saturated with oxygen, which will also be very useful for the roots of your plants.

If you are lucky and you get an already cultivated area, then you don’t have to dig it up in the fall, but it is advisable to cover it with a layer of mulch; in the spring it will serve as an excellent fertilizer.

Finally.

So, you have become familiar with the options for improved shovels and forks for every taste, now you will not have to break your back in the garden, as before, during the spring preparation of the site for planting.

Stop digging the beds! 5 reasons to make your life easier at the dacha

Vegetable garden for the lazy: why digging is harmful

Galina Kizima is a gardener-enthusiast with 50 years of experience, author of original techniques.

Spring was early this year, and very soon the first harvest will be harvested - greens, onions, young beets and potatoes. You have already decided what to sow in the vacant beds, you just need to dig up the soil. Stop! You and I are not on a collective farm, but at a dacha. Let's try to enjoy working in the garden - to make our work easier and at the same time increase soil fertility. Let's try. don't dig. There are at least five reasons for this.

Reason one: digging deprives the soil of living organisms

We are accustomed to considering the earth to be inorganic matter, that is, nonliving, and we treat it accordingly. And soil is a very complex living organism with its own hierarchical structure, its own laws of coexistence, densely populated by microorganisms and lower animal organisms, such as, for example, earthworms.

When digging to the depth of a spade bayonet, turning the layer over, we swap the layers of soil, and each type of microorganism finds itself in an unfavorable environment for itself. Most of them die, and the soil, devoid of microorganisms, loses fertility. And at the same time, it is completely useless to apply any fertilizers until its population is restored.

Losing its inhabitants, the soil loses its structure along with them. Such soil is washed away by rains and carried away by winds. You probably have your own experience on this issue. Remember: you fill up a large pile of earth, for example, removed from the place where you are going to build a house, and then you want to use it for garden beds. And suddenly you discover that the soil has somehow become barren, although you put mostly sod in this pile.

Thanks to the use of agricultural machinery, today we have almost completely destroyed the most fertile lands on the entire planet and an inexorable decline in soil fertility. You and I cannot bring all of humanity to reason, but on our own plots we are quite capable of stopping disastrous agriculture and starting to restore the lost natural fertility of the soil.

Reason two: digging disrupts the soil structure

When digging the soil, we disrupt all the microchannels through which moisture and air penetrate the arable layer. As a result, moisture and air do not enter the area of ​​sucking roots, and normal plant nutrition is disrupted. The roots literally suffocate and the plant weakens. What a harvest there is.

How are these microchannels formed in the soil? The fact is that root system plants are huge. Not only can it go deep up to 2–5 m (in beets, for example, the central root can penetrate up to 3–4 m deep, and in cucumber - up to 1 m), but also branches in all directions, and each of these roots is covered hundreds of thousands of sucking hairs, the total length of which can reach 5–10 km! As a result, every inch of earth is literally riddled with these hairs.

When the above-ground part of the plant dies, soil microorganisms begin to eat the remains of the roots. As a result, microscopic channels are formed through which moisture penetrates, and after it is absorbed by the soil, air rushes into the soil through the channels. In addition, worms make passages in the soil, which also serve as channels for water and air, only larger ones. Through all these passages, the roots of the next generation of plants easily penetrate deep into the soil.

We are strongly recommended to dig up the soil in the fall in order to destroy pests that have settled for the winter in the surface layer of soil, and also to ensure that moisture penetrates between the clods, freezes and expands the passages for spring water and air, which will rush through these cracks into the soil layer.

Yes, of course, some of the pests will die, but we will completely disrupt the system of water and air exchange, replacing it with several large cracks. In the spring, when we dig again, we will completely destroy the channels created by roots and bacteria. With such double digging, this entire complex system is destroyed, and the soil becomes so compacted in dry times that it has to be literally chiseled.

Reason three: weed seeds

During autumn digging, we bring all the weed seeds from the surface into the soil, where they remain until spring. And when we dig again in the spring, we bring overwintered weed seeds back to the surface, which immediately begin to germinate.

Reason four: exposure of soil

After digging, we leave the soil surface “bare”, and this leads to drying out and destruction of its topmost layer. In addition, “a holy place is never empty,” and weeds immediately begin to take up their place in the sun. The soil should not be dug up, but covered on top with any mulching material.

The easiest way to do this is to do it the way nature does it, that is, to cover the ground with organic residues. In autumn - fallen leaves and the aboveground part of dead annuals. In spring - young green shoots.

Why is she doing this? In autumn - to return organic matter used up by plants to the soil and to protect the surface root system from frost (where there is frost). In spring - to cover the surface from direct sunlight, to protect the top layer from drying out and destruction.

Fifth reason: preservation of humus

When digging, the upper, most fertile part of the soil, containing humus, turns out to be scattered throughout the entire thickness of the dug layer. Humus seems to be eroded or smeared, and since there is so little of it in poor soils, the fertility of the top layer decreases. Humus always “floats” to the top layer. But when will this happen again? Humus should be protected and highly valued, and not destroyed by digging.

What to do?

Of course, to raise, groom, cherish the inhabitants of the soil, and for this they need to be well fed, giving them green organic matter, and loosen, just loosen the soil, so as not to harm them!

But how can you make the soil loose enough to sow seeds and plant seedlings? Instead of a shovel, I suggest using a Fokin flat cutter. It has a pointed end - this is what you will use to make furrows, first along and then across, deepening it into the soil by about 5 cm. Then, with the flat part of the flat cutter, lightly dig up this layer, cutting it and immediately throwing the soil off the flat cutter. If necessary, you can rake it out. By the way, a rake can also be used to loosen the top layer of soil.

You can do this work with a sharpened hoe, a Strizh weeder and other devices. The only requirement for such tools is that they must be very well sharpened. These tools should not be buried below 5 cm in the soil, and they should not mix the layers.

This is how we will get rid of the most labor-intensive work on earth - digging up the earth. Next time we’ll talk about whether it’s possible to do without weeding and watering.

The summer season is coming to an end. Gardeners hastily harvest and leave their plots until spring. It is necessary not only to dig up flowers, remove equipment and fill the soil with fertilizers. To get a rich harvest in the new season, you should also think about digging up the soil. Previously, this was a mandatory practice for many gardeners. But today people most often refuse it. So is it necessary to dig up your garden in the fall?

It's not time to rest

The summer season is very exhausting even for experienced gardeners. Therefore, after its completion, you want to relax rather than study preparatory work. Many gardeners believe that digging up the soil in the garden in the fall is not necessary. For them it's just a waste of time. Is it really so?

Until recently, gardeners considered digging to be the most important preparatory procedure. It was traditionally done in both spring and autumn. But today, gardeners are increasingly digging up the soil only before planting crops.

During the winter, the soil changes greatly. During this time, it is saturated with a large amount of minerals. And the snow helps it absorb moisture. Therefore, it is important to prepare the soil for winter. Proper autumn digging will help make it more fertile. Accordingly, in the new season you will receive good harvest.

Autumn digging of soil has not only advantages, but also disadvantages. We'll tell you more about them below.

Why is autumn digging of the earth necessary?

Our ancestors also dug the soil in the fall. Were they all wrong and did all this work in vain? Not at all. Autumn digging has many advantages.

It is recommended to produce it for those gardeners who plan to fertilize their garden. It is in the dug up beds that it is easier to add mineral and organic mixtures. The effect of their presence in the soil will increase several times. This will help you get a rich harvest in the new season.

When you dig up your beds in the fall, you prevent weeds from multiplying. Their seeds are usually buried deep in the soil to survive the cold winter. Due to digging, they end up on the upper layers, so most of them die during frosts.

The same applies to pests and their larvae, as well as pathogenic bacteria that can destroy the crop. After digging, they also end up on the top layers of the soil. Some of them will die due to the cold and wind, but the insects will definitely be eaten by birds even before the snow falls. Don’t forget to fill the soil with chemicals, they will help get rid of pests more effectively.

Soil that is dug up at least 2 times a year becomes looser. It allows air and moisture to pass through better. In spring, loose soil warms up faster. Digging helps clear the area of ​​weeds, leaves, stones and other debris.

As you can see, digging is an important stage in the autumn preparation of the garden for the new season.

But digging also has its disadvantages.

Supporters of organic farming most often refuse to do autumn digging. Why do they try to avoid it? The thing is that soil is home to many living organisms. Each of them does its own job, which is useful for the ecosystem in its own way. When you dig up the soil, you lift up more than just weed seeds and pest larvae from the deeper layers. Along with them, beneficial microorganisms also appear on the soil surface, which make the soil more fertile. They will also die in winter, which will affect the condition of your garden. The soil may become impoverished, and restoring its fertility will be very difficult.

In addition, digging up the soil does not guarantee the death of weed seeds. Some of them are cold-resistant, so they can survive the winter. In addition, with deep and frequent digging, a less fertile layer of soil rises to the surface. Because of this, its soil structure is disrupted and it also becomes less fertile.

Finally, digging is hard work that is especially difficult for older people. At the end of the summer season, people want to relax rather than engage in physical labor.

Do I need to dig up my garden?

Digging the soil has both pros and cons. Experts advise each gardener to make an individual decision about its need. This should be based on two factors: the climate in your region and the type of soil on the site. The disadvantages of the process will manifest themselves most clearly where digging is not needed. On the contrary, if it is necessary for your climate and soil type, you will not be able to get a good harvest without it.

For example, you have heavy and clayey soil in your garden, which is also poorly cultivated. In this case, digging is definitely necessary, and it is best to do it every year. If the soil on the site is loose and light, then it is enough to simply loosen it. Sandy soil needs to be dug up only in the spring.

It all depends on the climate

Climate also affects the condition of the soil. In warm regions, the soil usually dries out faster, so it does not need frequent digging. On the contrary, it can worsen the condition of the soil, so it will not have time to absorb moisture during the winter. In regions with a cold and humid climate, it is necessary to dig up the soil. Due to natural conditions, the soil here becomes very compacted in winter. This reduces soil fertility and makes it unsuitable for growing some plants.

Proponents of organic farming often cite the example of forest ecosystems, where plants grow well without digging or fertilizers. But it is worth remembering that they are less demanding on soil quality. Varietal and hybrid vegetables will not be able to survive in such conditions.

How to properly dig up a vegetable garden?

Digging the soil incorrectly will, of course, do more harm than good. Therefore, follow certain rules that will help increase soil fertility. Of course, digging should be done after the harvest has been completely harvested. It is advisable to do it before the end of October, otherwise severe frosts can negatively affect the condition of the soil. It is best to finish digging before heavy rains begin. This will help the soil to be better saturated with moisture before frost and snow falls.

The depth of digging depends on the planted crops

How to choose the right digging depth? You need to focus not only on your soil type, but on the type of crop that you are going to plant in the beds next year.

Experts advise sticking to the following depth:

• 25-30 cm (per spade blade) - for potatoes, beets, carrots, pumpkins, melons and parsley;
• 5-10 cm - for tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, radishes and legumes.

It is advisable not to turn the soil layers over. This will help you retain more beneficial microflora. Be sure to remove weed roots and throw them away. If you bury them in the ground, there is a good chance they will survive the winter.

If the soil has not been dug up for several years, it is recommended to carry out two-tier digging. In this case, the layers of earth must be turned over.

Tools you'll need

To dig, you only need a shovel. You can also replace it with a pitchfork. These tools are the easiest way to dig up soil in small areas of up to 10 acres. Shovel - a budget option, which copes well with any type of soil. But digging will require a lot of physical effort from the gardener. Forks sift the soil better and help achieve a finer soil structure. This is beneficial for young plants.

Of course, the easiest way is to use a cultivator to dig up the soil. But it's not cheap. Moreover, it does not always cope with dense soil. Therefore, you will have to dig up parts of the garden yourself.

It's deep autumn outside, the last root crops have been harvested, and the earth is preparing to rest. At such a time, summer residents often wonder whether it is necessary to dig up the garden in the fall, because after harvesting all the vacant plots are already dug up.

Purpose of digging

Why should you dig up soil in your garden at all? For example, in the fall it increases in volume by almost one and a half times due to porous air ducts. When loose, carbon dioxide and oxygen help plant residues to quickly decompose and create nutritious humus. In such soil, the root system of crops easily penetrates deep, finds moisture and food, thanks to this, plants can withstand frosts and dry periods.

So, when is the best time to dig up your garden? There are a lot of arguments on this matter, arguments and conclusions too, and diametrically opposed ones.

Digging in the fall

The work ahead is hard and not everyone enjoys it, but, according to experts, the turnover of the earthen layer in the autumn is necessary and for the following reasons:

• to saturate the earth with beneficial microorganisms (and their number has already been calculated - ten kilograms per square meter), it is necessary to add organic matter - compost, humus, manure, rotted sawdust, ash, and all these useful things are added only during autumn digging

• allow microorganisms and the earth to breathe, because air helps the process of their reproduction

• weed seeds will fall to a depth from which they will not be able to germinate in the spring

• weeds moved deeper will rot and fertilize the soil

• pests that are in the ground and have prepared for hibernation (Colorado beetles, caterpillars, various wireworms), once on the surface, will die from the wind, sun or be eaten by birds

• in the soil loosened in autumn, nitrogen-containing microorganisms are activated and fixed; they saturate the soil with plant forms of nitrogen

• a layer of earth that reaches the top, saturated with fertilizers, minerals, that is, it seems to be useful for future plants

• if there are trees on the site, their leaves are buried and become useful humus

• After a dry summer and dry autumn, inverted clods of earth retain moisture, which is created by air, dew, and condensation. And it, in turn, results from differences in warm daytime and cold night temperatures.

Without waiting for the autumn rains, you can immediately dig up the vacated areas of the bed. Then nutritious organisms will begin to cultivate and improve the soil earlier.

Digging in the fall saves time, which will be useful when preparing gardens in the spring, and this is probably the strongest argument in solving the problem of when to dig up a garden in the fall or spring.

Controversial aspects of autumn gardening

Autumn digging is a controversial issue today, and experienced gardeners who prefer spring tillage also justify it:

• when turning over a layer of soil in the fall, beneficial worms may die, but according to statistics, there are only ten percent of them; most of them are in clods, which are not broken up in the fall

• during spring digging, all processes are actively renewed, the soil at this time is able to give all its useful substances to new plants and grains

• To avoid weathering of food and moisture, the dug up soil is immediately harrowed in the spring. Its structure allows this to be done, but in the fall this process is in no way possible, because during the summer the earth becomes so compacted that it has to be crushed

• fallen leaves - ideally healthy trees on the site are now a rarity, therefore, with the fallen leaves of fruit trees, their pathogenic microbes can get into the soil during autumn digging; they are preserved and waiting in the wings. So, regarding fallen leaves, the answer is obvious - they need to be removed from the garden.

Regarding the depth of digging, agricultural technicians have proven that it is the top five to ten centimeters of the soil layer that are 100% useful; the further in depth, the poorer the soil. By turning the layer over onto the bayonet of a shovel, we bury beneficial microorganisms in the fertile soil, but the top layer turns out destroyed, lifeless, and infertile. By nature, biological soil changes from active to passive, and it needs time to recover, which, out of annual habit, we simply do not give it.

It also happens that suddenly in the area allotted for a vegetable garden, the fertile layer is small and during deep digging, the subsoil comes to the top. And it can consist of sand, podzolic infertile soil, clay. They, mixing with already cultivated soil, reduce its fertility, and this area will constantly need additional fertilizer.

Do you need to dig up your garden in the fall?

And this depends on the composition of the soil. After all, each soil has its own density, and for our crops we need the optimal one.

For example, marshy soil is favorable for vegetables because it is light. It is not necessary to dig it up in the fall, and it is useless. After the autumn digging, in the spring it will have to be treated with a roller in order to regulate the humidity and create conditions for the beneficial development of the planted crops.

Chernozem is a mechanically heavy composition, moisture-intensive, very dense. The mandatory depth of plowing is up to thirty centimeters. It is especially necessary to work in heavily clogged areas, and it is necessary to apply fertilizers.

Sandy, sandy loam and peat soils do not need digging. And here, if you consider that only the top layer is useful, you can cultivate such land with a small cultivator. You should not apply fertilizers to the entire area; this is a difficult and impractical task, because the nutrition is quickly washed away by precipitation and watering. It is more convenient and useful to apply specifically to the planned separated areas. vegetable crops plots or directly into holes during spring planting.

You should also not adapt to your neighbors. Areas located very close may differ greatly in type and humidity. Lowland ones are damp, wet, they are well suited for arranging high beds, which will dry out faster and be better warmed up by the spring sun.

Light soil is soddy-podzolic, sandy loam is dry and not suitable for raised beds. Double drying out will cause the plants to suffer and will have to be watered more often. IN in this case They use conventional planting, at ground level, and this saves effort, time and the result is pleasing.

Labor-intensive activities, such as digging up beds with the addition of useful ash, lime, manure, forming areas for the necessary crops, are best carried out taking into account the above factors. After all, in the fall we have more time to prepare for the future dacha season, and in his garden, each gardener himself determines when, what and where to dig or not to dig.

Tips for a beginning gardener: how to dig up a vegetable garden “in winter”

(13.11.2011)

Among gardeners, there is no clear opinion as to whether it is worth watering the garden in the fall. Opponents of autumn digging claim that in this way all the organic matter of the earth created by worms and plant roots is “killed”. In addition, according to them, the top fertile layer of the earth may suffer from digging, since in the dug up state it will be blown more by the wind. Those who are sure that it is necessary to dig up the garden before winter say that it is these same roots and bugs that need to be frozen out.

All these disputes are based constructive basis. But in general, they don’t give specific advice for a simple gardener. To dig or not to dig a garden in the fall depends on many factors: the structure of the soil, the methods of its cultivation, the crops that are planted, and other things. In this case, practice is more reliable than theory.

From personal experience I can say that you need to dig up your garden in the fall. In support, I will give several arguments and add tips on how to properly dig a vegetable garden “before winter.” It is necessary to dig up the garden in the fall, if only because in the spring it will be easier to develop the soil for the beds. If the top layer of soil is solid, then during the winter it will become “clogged” from precipitation so that it will be very difficult to make the soil soft. And most cultivated plants prefer “fluffy” soil. You need to dig up the entire garden where you plan to plant it next year.

Digging “in winter” makes it possible to get rid of weeds. To do this, the soil must be turned over completely so that the remains of the grass are not visible on the surface. Having rotted, these weeds will not be superfluous fertilizer for the earth, and the roots that end up on the surface will freeze. You need to dig up the earth in large blocks, without breaking them. This way the organic matter of the earth will not be greatly disturbed. At the same time, moisture will penetrate deeper into the soil. And in early spring, the earth dug up in large blocks will shake out faster and become suitable for planting

It is better to use a pitchfork as a working tool rather than a shovel. You should be wary of the fact that the winter will be dry and frosty. This is bad for the soil, especially for dug up soil. Therefore, if possible, the beds should be covered with fallen leaves; as they rot, they will warm the earth.

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Do I need to dig deep into the soil often? Tilling the soil twice a year (often incorrectly) and continuously loosening it in the summer does not contribute to improvement, as many gardeners believe, but to the dispersion of the soil structure. This means that such deep tillage of the soil in the garden should not be abused unnecessarily, although in the fall on heavy clay soil it is practically impossible to do without it.

Digging of heavy soil to a depth of no more than 15 cm should be done only in the fall, without turning the soil over, but only shifting it and removing the roots of perennial weeds.

Leveling the ground in autumn

A mandatory operation is leveling, which refers to surface tillage of the soil. It is usually produced during spring processing using a rake. When the soil is sufficiently dry, you need to level its surface to reduce the evaporation of water that comes with the spring melting of snow. To do this, break up the clods of earth left in the fall and evenly distribute the entire volume of soil over the area using a rake; at the same time, you can scatter mineral fertilizers and level them with the soil. The rake is driven back and forth with constant force, in smooth, continuous movements, ensuring that the teeth glide over the surface of the soil without digging it up. Pre-dug soil is leveled

Latest articles about gardening

reciprocating movements of the rake, first in one and then in a perpendicular direction. A rake is usually used to lightly cover the seeds after sowing, move the soil into the furrows, and collect leaves, dry grass, last year’s mulch, and any debris from the area.

When to till the soil in the fall

There are several methods for autumn tillage using this technology, both using an EM solution and using EM compost. But there is one thing general condition: the higher the soil temperature, the more active microorganisms work. Therefore, the sooner you till the soil, the more benefit they will have time to bring it.

The first method: weed the weeds and, without removing them, treat the soil with a solution of the EM preparation. Microorganisms immediately get to work, decomposing the cut parts of plants and the roots remaining in the ground. Weed seeds germinate together, but with the onset of frost the seedlings die.

Method two: treat the damp soil with a solution of the EM preparation, loosen it by 5-7 cm and cover it with a layer of fallen leaves and plucked grass (mulch). Decomposing roots and mulch will make the soil much more fertile and improve its structure by spring.

What benefits does cultivating the land in autumn provide?

First of all, this simplifies and facilitates planting work in the spring. Even those who are against such an event agree with this. After all, when the last vegetables are collected, the cold weather is still quite far away. And if it's worth warm weather, then the beds become overgrown with weeds. This means that if you don’t remove them now, then next season it will be more difficult to fight the dominance of weeds. When cultivating the soil in autumn, a good water-air regime is created for plants;

The thermal properties of the soil also improve in the spring, the soil will ripen faster for planting.

One of the advantages of autumn work is that the remains of stems, stones and other debris were removed ahead of time.

To dig or not to dig a garden by autumn

And the black earth is his work. How does a worm do this? Feels hungry, rises to the surface, captures plant debris along with the soil, descends, passing them through itself along the way, then frees itself from waste products. And so on in a circle.

During its movement, the worm leaves behind a passage that has access to the surface of the earth. This passage, it turns out, is filled with air and waste products of the worm - roughly speaking, its manure.

Tilling the soil in autumn with a walk-behind tractor

Deviations to the sides often occur - these are withdrawals that usually occur in furrows that have already been cultivated. This may lead to another question: how to properly plow with a walk-behind tractor so that the rotating blades do not go into the ground? Only appropriate manipulation of the handles can help with this. Unfortunately, careful monitoring must be carried out on any soil. So, on loose soil, it is necessary to ensure that the cutters do not dive too deeply, and in the process of processing hard soil and virgin soil, it may be necessary to perform several approaches. It is advisable to carry out the first treatment at low speeds, and it is important to adjust the position of the coulter accordingly.

Fertilizing the soil with mineral fertilizers in the fall

These inorganic substances are obtained during chemical reactions that are controlled by humans, or are mined from the depths of the earth. Mineral fertilizers There are potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus. Moreover, they may contain various micro- and macroelements necessary for the normal functioning of trees.

Nitrate: calcium, sodium and ammonium;

Urea;

Ammonium sulfate.

Feeding with ash

You can make ash yourself. Just burn the weeds, tops and branches and scatter about 1 kilogram per square meter of soil, then dig up the ground. This is done once every 3 years. They love this food:

• strawberry;
• raspberries;
• currant;
• cabbage;
• potato.

Don't overdo it with ash. This is dangerous because the plants will begin to rot after planting.

Applying organic fertilizers to the soil in autumn

Humus. Organic fertilizers usually include humus, chicken manure, and compost in the fall. On poor soils, fresh manure is applied up to 300-500 kg per hundred square meters. In September-October, they are scattered over a designated area and embedded in the soil.

Application chicken droppings. Concentrated organic fertilizer. Fertilizer applied directly under the root causes a burn to the root system of plants. For fertilizing, bird droppings are diluted and used in the form of a liquid solution for fertilizing.

Compost. Compost is an organic fertilizer made from plant and animal waste with the addition of soil and (if available) peat.

Green fertilizers or green manures. Green fertilizers, or green manures, also belong to organic fertilizers. Winter green manure is sown after harvesting the main crop in the fall for digging or left until spring soil preparation. They are used on heavy floating soils for the purpose of loosening (rapeseed, oats, phacelia, mustard, rapeseed and others).

Killing weeds by autumn

I destroy weeds chemically in calm and cloudy weather. For these purposes I use the herbicide Roundup. Before spraying weeds, growing nearby useful crops I cover them with film, otherwise they may die along with the weeds.

When it comes time to cultivate the garden, be it spring or autumn digging or harrowing, most gardeners clutch their heads in despair. This rather complex and time-consuming procedure without knowledge of its rules can turn into a complete nightmare. It is especially difficult for beginners who take up a shovel as if it were a foreign object. Fortunately, there are convenient and the right ways land treatments that will help you simplify this process.

How to dig correctly, instructions

Most gardeners advise digging to the depth of the entire bayonet of a shovel when digging or planting. This will help to turn over top soil with weed seeds, mineral and organic fertilizers, which were sprinkled on the ground, at the bottom of the formed hole.

In autumn, the most effective method of the pass is digging up the earth in furrows 40 cm wide, but no more than the width of a spade bayonet. The area to be dug is mentally divided into two parts. The first row of furrows is dug, then the second row is buried. Thus, the soil layers are saturated with oxygen and nutrients. This method is also recommended if you fertilize the soil with manure or compost.

Having previously scattered it throughout the garden, dig up the ground to distribute it evenly. A “bed” of manure is also effective: place manure at the bottom of the furrow and sprinkle it with soil. If the soil of your garden needs lime, then it cannot be mixed with manure - they can enter into a chemical reaction.

Important! Lime should be scattered over the surface of the area without burying.

It is best to dig the soil while holding the bayonet of the shovel in a vertical position. This will increase the layer of cultivated soil due to deep penetration and make it easier to separate the breasts.

Is it necessary and when to dig up the soil in the fall?

This question is a stumbling block for most gardeners. Some believe that digging up a vegetable garden in the fall is not rational, while others, following traditional methods of tillage, argue that this will increase the yield next year. We will give several arguments that will help you answer the question of whether it is necessary to dig up the soil in the fall.

Advantages of autumn digging of soil is that the top layer of leaves, twigs and other plant elements falls into the inner ball of soil and rots over the winter, and the larvae of many insect pests rise to the surface of the earth and die from birds or winter frosts. The soil is enriched with nitrogen microorganisms, which are activated by oxygen.

The downside is that, that when you dig up the soil, you bury weed seeds, helping them to overwinter and sprout in the spring.

Important! When digging in the fall, you need to fence the area.

As you know, it is recommended to properly dig up the soil in the fall no deeper than 10 cm, since with more deep penetration beneficial substances disappear.

There is no clear opinion regarding autumn digging. The advantage is that the top layer of soil will not compact as much over the winter, and in the spring it will take you less time to prepare the soil for planting.

It is also necessary to dig up the soil in the fall because the soil needs replenishment before winter. When the first rains arrive, it is too late to dig up the soil; in the fall, this period falls at the end of October. So it’s better to do it by the middle of this month.

Is it necessary to dig up the site in the spring?

When digging up a garden in the spring, you must take into account the fact that the soil has hardened over the winter.

How to properly dig up the soil in spring? If you tilled the soil in the fall, then in the spring you only need to harrow the soil. In this way, moisture reserves will be preserved, preventing the upper layers of the soil from drying out.

Important! You don’t need to dig up the soil deeply in the spring, just half a shovel deep.

Shallow digging will help preserve the substances that you buried in the soil in the fall. All humus, fertilizers, and compost will become an excellent basis for your harvest. Enriched soil is known to promote active germination of seeds and their preservation in the event of frost.

Did you know? In the spring, there is no need to dig up the entire area: it is better to leave the paths, and then the weeds will be less of a nuisance.

What is a sole and how to get rid of it

The sole is a layer of compacted soil resulting from frequent digging of the garden to the same depth.

Heavy soils (soddy-podzolic, clayey) and swampy soils are susceptible to the formation of soles. It is recommended to carry out a two-tier excavation of the territory every 4-6 years.

Important! Do not overuse two-tier digging. Beneficial substances disappear.

The sole prevents the growth of many rooted plants: celery, carrots, beets, onions, parsley, etc., and deforms their roots.

If the sole is heavily compacted, then stagnation of water occurs, which promotes the development of unfavorable bacteria and microorganisms, which subsequently affect the development of vegetables.

A two-tiered digging of the garden will help you get rid of the sole. It is advisable to carry it out in the fall, so that beneficial microflora has time to form during the winter and spring. To do this, you need to dig a furrow the width of the bayonet of your shovel and loosen its bottom with a garden fork. In this case, the soil along the edges of the furrow should also be loosened. Then you can add compost or manure. As a result of such digging, the arable layer increases, and the earth is saturated with oxygen necessary for the development of useful substances, and its physical and water properties improve.

Did you know? During two-tier digging, the top layer of low-fertility soil is not removed.

How to dig virgin soil correctly

Virgin land is land that has not been subjected to any cultivation, not plowed by anyone and, on the one hand, wild.

If you have such an area, then this is a great reason to treat it and get moral and physical satisfaction from the results. Once you have gathered the strength, tools and inspiration, you can immediately begin. But keep in mind that this is terrible work and testing.

Important! When choosing a site, you should make sure that there are amenities nearby: water, a store, a gas station, roads.

You can process virgin soil either with the help of equipment or on your own (this depends on your health). The method of processing with machinery is quite simple, but before you think that, except for a tractor, there is nothing you can do to dig up virgin soil, remember about your hands and feet. An excellent tool, and most importantly, free, for conquering virgin lands.

Manual processing is a complex and labor-intensive process. First of all, you need to choose the right season. The autumn digging period is perfect for this type of work. Since to process virgin soil you need to clear your abandoned area of ​​weeds, start by choosing a lawn mower. You can use a regular one, but then the work time will increase.

Important! It is necessary to mow grass and weeds in virgin lands before mechanical processing.

You will also need a shovel. It is best to dig up virgin soil in parts, dividing it with a thread. You need to dig to a depth of at least 15 cm. Leave the dug area to dry for a while. Then you need to walk over it with a pitchfork and fluff up the soil.

When digging virgin soil, it is important to be patient, because such a task often remains abandoned due to its complexity.

Is it possible to make the digging process easier?

First of all, you need to choose the right shovel. Its handle should be strong, smooth and sufficiently polished. This will protect you from damage to your palms and unexpected breakdowns. The bayonet blade needs to be sharpened well - then the process will go faster.

You also need to protect yourself from injuries (rubbed calluses, splinters). Gloves for work should have rubberized palms, then the hand will not slip on the smooth handle. Choose shoes closed type with a hard sole, since with a thin one it may be painful for you to press your foot on the shovel.

So how can you make digging your garden easier? different ways Let's start with the simplest thing - how you hold the instrument.

The shovel must be placed vertically, with the bayonet to the ground. Press down on the shovel tray with your foot, while holding the handle firmly with both hands. The shovel bayonet must be inserted to the depth required for the type of digging - full length or half. The working leg can be chosen at your discretion. Typically, right-handers use the right hand, and left-handers, respectively, the left.

According to the rules, the shovel and its bayonet must be perpendicular to the ground, since at an angle you will not be able to dig deep into the soil. It is better to maintain an average digging pace.

The process of digging and cultivating the soil is quite difficult, but by following simple and useful tips, you will greatly simplify these tasks. seasonal work. Don’t be afraid to experiment - tillage is based more on experience and your own observations than on norms and rules.

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With the end of the harvest season, gardeners are wondering whether it is necessary to dig up the soil in the garden in the fall. For many years, it has been a tradition to dig up the soil after harvesting. Recently, an opinion has emerged and actively spread that such actions are not obligatory, but are considered irrational.

When to dig

Digging is a procedure that involves turning over the soil. As a result of such manipulations, beneficial humus-forming microorganisms are sent deep underground. Unfortunately, oxygen often cannot penetrate to such a depth. Experiencing oxygen starvation, beneficial microorganisms die, and the soil becomes significantly poorer and loses its beneficial properties.

Considering these features, it is recommended not to dig up the garden in the fall, but to loosen the soil. However, an exception is made for heavy soil. Digging is carried out, but with minor features. When carrying out autumn digging, about 15 cm of the top layer of soil is affected. The soil is not turned over, but shifted, removing the weed roots from it.

Besides, autumn digging clay soil favors the improvement of its water and air permeability. As a result of such actions in the spring, the soil warms up well and very quickly.

It is better to carry out autumn digging in accordance with the recommendations of experienced gardeners in the second half of September. By this time, the gardens are already cleared of all vegetable crops.

Plant tops that show signs of disease or infection are burned. Ash can be used as fertilizer during autumn or spring tillage.

The optimal period for digging up a garden is considered to be the period starting from mid-September and lasting until mid-October. It is important to complete such manipulations by the time the period of prolonged rains begins.

If you delay in carrying out such actions, digging up the soil can, on the contrary, provoke undesirable consequences. The soil will become compacted, and the access of oxygen will slow down significantly.

Why do they dig up the ground in the fall?

If the soil is excessively clogged with weeds, it is initially simply loosened. As a result of increased access to oxygen, weeds begin to actively germinate. After just two weeks, they move on to the next stage of digging, during which they remove:

• rhizomes of dandelions and wheatgrass;
• larvae of May beetles and wireworms.

Digging the soil allows you to detect and destroy underground passages of pests and rodent burrows.

This agrotechnical procedure allows you to saturate the soil with useful elements. While digging the beds, summer residents apply organic and mineral fertilizers.

If large pieces of earth form during digging, they do not need to be broken up. They will retain moisture and prevent the soil from compacting.

Weed control

Weeds are the worst enemies of summer residents. They grow quickly, causing significant harm to cultivated plants, taking away a significant portion of their nutrients, shielding them from sunlight. It is for these reasons that no gardener will put up with the presence of weeds in the garden. Several times a month during the season it is necessary to carry out weeding to destroy weeds.

Digging is an agrotechnical procedure that is one of the most effective in the fight against weeds. When carrying out such actions, the roots of the weeds appear on the surface, they are easy to detect, collect and throw away.

Of course, it will not be possible to ensure 100% destruction of weed rhizomes, but when digging, the strength of even the remaining weeds is significantly weakened. In the spring, less unwanted grass will begin to grow in such an area.

Fertilizer application

When deciding whether it is necessary to dig up the soil in the garden in the fall, owners of garden plots receive affirmative answers. Experienced summer residents explain that digging allows you to add nutrients to the soil and contribute to its deoxidation.

Organic and mineral fertilizers act as nutrients.

It is simply wrong to throw fertilizers around the garden. First you need to decide which vegetable or berry crops you plan to plant in specific beds in the spring.

After this, compost or humus is added to the areas where it is planned to grow seedlings, cabbage or cucumbers in the next season.

Mineral fertilizers will not be superfluous for any plants, so they can be distributed throughout the garden.

Change in soil acidity

The deoxidation effect will be achieved when the ash is mixed with the soil. This can only be achieved by digging up the area.

Minuses

Along with the multiple advantages that accompany the procedure of digging up a site, there are also tangible disadvantages:

• Such work is never easy and one has to experience excessive physical fatigue. Therefore, experienced summer residents recommend a sensible approach to this task, digging up the soil only where there is really a need for it.
• When using the wrong digging technique, soil inhabitants change places, which quite often negatively affects the condition of the soil.

Is it necessary to dig up soil in the garden?

If the beds survive the digging procedure, then similar manipulations in the garden can provoke extremely undesirable consequences.

When digging up the trunk circle of any fruit tree“dew roots”, which are small suction roots, are destroyed. It is their nature that has endowed them with the ability to absorb moisture and absorb nutrients. When digging, the shovel mercilessly destroys them.

For this reason, experienced gardeners do not carry out such manipulations on the eve of winter.

In addition, such agrotechnical treatment is extremely dangerous for stone fruit trees, apple trees and cherries. Their root system is located very close to the soil surface. Any careless movement can cause damage to the roots. It will be difficult for a weakened tree to move winter period. In addition, in places where the roots are damaged, shoots will begin to actively grow, taking away the strength of the main tree.

Digging is not an easy agrotechnical procedure; it is a real art, the level of mastery of which determines the yield in the next season.

• It is better to dig up the soil when it is sufficiently moist. If the soil is dry, processing will be accompanied by difficulties and you will have to make every effort.
• The shovel must be inserted into the ground in a vertical position, capturing a small layer of earth.

Beginning summer residents, setting tasks for themselves, strive to solve them in a short time. It is not recommended to apply this rule to the digging procedure. It’s better to do everything gradually, then fatigue will not be noticeable, and the quality of work will be higher.

If you spend a long time in the garden, accompanied by digging up the plot, minor health problems may arise. You often have to suffer from conjunctivitis.

This problem can be dealt with by using folk remedies. You can eliminate inflammation of the eyelids by wiping with your own prepared infusion. It is made from cucumber peels. You don’t have to wipe your eyelids, but make lotions. But before using any means, you should consult a medical specialist.

It is up to the owner of the dacha to decide whether it is necessary to dig up the soil in the garden in the fall, and then again in the spring. This procedure is complex both physically and technologically. Therefore, it is recommended to listen to experienced farmers to do all the work correctly.

Do you diligently dig up the soil on your site every year? Are you sure that it increases fertility, but you can’t grow a truly impressive crop? Perhaps it's time to switch to no-tillage!

Digging the soil is considered one of the most important dacha jobs. During the procedure, you can clear the soil of weeds and debris and make it looser. Also, after digging, some of the pests and their larvae remain on the surface, where birds happily feast on them. Every summer resident has carried out dump digging at least once in his life, when a lump of earth is turned over and the top layer is sealed to the depth of a spade bayonet. But there is more modern way– no-moldboard tillage, which allows you to revive land that suffers from intensive farming and does not produce the usual yields. The main difference of the method is that the excavated layers of soil do not need to be turned over and broken up.

No-moldboard tillage is becoming increasingly widespread in agriculture. It is also called No Till, or zero technology. Specialists from many countries (Brazil, Colombia, North Korea, Australia, etc.) are successfully implementing this innovation. Its main feature is that the seeds are sown in uncultivated soil, which still contains plant remains from previous harvests. Disc cultivators, flat cutters, etc. are used for work.

Why should you use no-moldboard tillage on your property? We have identified 5 main reasons.

Reason 1. To preserve and increase the number of beneficial soil organisms

Soil is the habitat of many insects, bacteria and fungi, some of which are responsible for soil fertility and maintaining the natural balance in it. During dump digging, the natural balance is disrupted, beneficial organisms die along with harmful ones. As a result, the land becomes impoverished and loses its valuable properties. And it will be quite difficult to restore soil fertility in the future.

Do not worry that the soil will become less loose after non-moldboard cultivation. Worms and beetles will remain in it, which will successfully loosen the top layer of soil and make it suitable for growing plants.

Reason 2. To get an environmentally friendly harvest

During normal digging, it is convenient to add fertilizers to the soil. In the case of no-moldboard processing, it will be more difficult to carry out such a procedure, which means that the risk that you will add more fertilizer than necessary is reduced. In addition, plant roots from previous harvests can be an excellent alternative to fertilizing (provided that they are not affected by diseases and do not contradict the principles of crop rotation).

One of the objectives of organic farming, of which no-tillage is part, is the preservation of soil organisms that improve the structure of the soil. Therefore, it is advisable not to use dangerous chemicals to control weeds, pests and plant diseases.

Reason 3. To increase fertility and reduce the risk of soil erosion (destruction)

Non-moldboard tillage allows you to improve the structure of the soil, retain moisture and humus layer in it. Summer residents who tried it this method, also noted an increase in the soil’s ability to retain snow and resistance to wind erosion. In other words, the quality of the soil became higher and it retained its physical properties for a long time.

During deep dump digging, a less fertile lower layer of soil appears on the surface.

It is believed that heavy clay soil still needs digging, especially in autumn, otherwise it will be difficult to grow anything in it. Light soils do not require careful cultivation. Therefore, before switching to dump-free cultivation, it is worthwhile to better understand the properties of the soil on your site.

To determine the type of soil, you will need an ordinary glass of water. Add a spoonful of soil to it, mix and leave for a couple of hours. Then see what happens. If the water is almost clean, and a small layer of sediment is visible at the bottom, the soil is loamy. Clear water with sediment of grains of sand and pebbles is a sign of sandy soil. Turbid water with small sediment and floating pieces of suspension means that the area has peaty soil. If the water is cloudy and the sediment is thin, clay predominates. Now it will be easier for you to decide what kind of treatment the soil on the site needs.

Reason 4. To reduce financial costs for soil cultivation and plant care

Outdated methods of working with soil are being replaced by new, less expensive ones. Financial reasons prompted many summer residents to switch to no-moldboard cultivation. Of course, you will still need equipment, but it will be almost universal, replacing a shovel, fork, hoe, rake and other tools. They can carry out a wide variety of care activities. In a country house, for example, a flat cutter will be sufficient, which can be used for:

• processing heavy clay soil;
• loosening and weeding the soil;
• forming beds and leveling their surface;
• hilling plants, etc.

There are different models of flat cutters, so depending on the task, it is worth choosing several tools.

This way you will significantly reduce the cost of growing crops, save a lot of time and get good results.

Reason 5. To maintain your own health

After digging up the garden, it’s rare that a summer resident feels invigorated. The most common concern is muscle pain. So, no-tillage will also save physical effort. You won’t have to strain your back and arms to prepare a large enough plot of land for future plantings.

Of course, mechanized digging can be some alternative, but it also requires a lot of effort and good physical training. In addition, you will have to spend extra money on gasoline. But working with a flat cutter will be possible for women and even teenagers, because... there is no need to turn over layers of soil.

Disadvantages of no-mouldboard tillage

Like any method of tillage, the non-moldboard method also has its drawbacks. We mentioned above that with such a procedure it is difficult to make required amount fertilizers, because the clod of earth does not turn over. In addition, it is quite difficult to control weeds, diseases and pests. Weed seeds remain on the surface and germinate faster. True, with ordinary digging there is also no complete guarantee that there will be no weeds, but at least it is easier for them to remove. You will also need to purchase additional equipment, for example, a flat cutter, which entails additional financial expenses.

But, despite the disadvantages, the method still has many more advantages. True, it is not so easy to completely master such processing right away. It is worth starting small, for example, cultivating a small area and comparing how the soil and yield have changed. It would be a good idea to do some preliminary research. chemical composition soil. Also, do not forget about observing crop rotation, sowing green manure and mulching.

Moldless tillage will help you increase soil fertility, maintain its structure, accelerate the biological activity of microorganisms and ultimately obtain a richer harvest.