Interior decoration of a bathhouse: how to create a zone of comfort and coziness. Do-it-yourself bathhouse: interior decoration Construction of a bathhouse from bricks or blocks

The arrangement of the bathhouse is the final stage of its construction. It refers to the interior decoration of premises. Most often, wooden lining or boards from various breeds wood Before you begin finishing, you need to decide on the material, evaluate its positive characteristics, and identify its disadvantages. In addition, you should think over the design of the room, purchase the necessary devices, accessories and original decor to decorate it.

Features and finishing requirements

Why do you need finishing in a bathhouse? This question arises often, especially when carrying out work in a room that is a log house. The log surface of its walls is quite decorative in itself. Let us give a number of arguments - why finishing is still necessary in conditions high humidity and temperature. It performs the following functions:

• protects walls from moisture;
• behind it you can hide thermal insulation and waterproofing, providing an even greater degree of protection;
• compensates for the heating of surfaces and prevents getting burned, thereby increasing the level of comfort for visitors;
• has a variety of therapeutic and preventive effects depending on the type of wood;
• Decorative finishing makes staying in the bathhouse not just useful, but also enjoyable.

Step-by-step plan for interior work:

1. We cover the walls, ceiling and floor with lumber in sequence.
2. We line the stoves.
3. We construct benches in the steam room.

When choosing the optimal wood for finishing a bath, you need to be guided by certain parameters. Products must have the following qualities:

• resistance to high temperatures and humidity;
• safety when contacting people;
• durability;
• ease of processing;
• reasonable cost.

Finishing boards must be dried to a moisture content of 10% and subjected to thermal exposure. These procedures help improve their performance characteristics.

Bathhouse premises and their functionality

Even the smallest bathhouse should be divided into several rooms. This allows you to select separate zones with different functionality, maintain the required level of temperature and humidity in each of them, and make the use of all options comfortable and safe.

Traditionally, a bathhouse consists of:

• dressing room - prevents cold air from entering the room and warm air from leaving it. This is a mandatory element of construction. If it is not possible to equip a full-fledged vestibule, you can get by with a miniature nook with two doors opening in different directions. You can arrange a changing room in the dressing room - place small benches and a hanger so that you can leave clothes and change shoes. If the vestibule is combined with a rest room, then there may be a table, equipment for broadcasting video and audio, a grill and much more;
• washroom - a room separated by a door from the steam room. A comfortable temperature is maintained here. Washing in a hot steam room with a hot stove is difficult and unsafe. In addition, it is much more difficult to thoroughly warm a large room than an isolated space of 3-4 square meters. m. The size of the washing room depends on its purpose and the number of family members. If you plan to use it also as a laundry room, or you are going to bathe several children at the same time, you will need a spacious room. If the bathhouse is being built in a country house and is intended for meetings with friends, a shower in one of its corners will be enough, and half a square meter will be enough for this;
• The steam room is the main room - the “heart” of the Russian bath. It has no windows and is located as far as possible from the entrance. It contains a stove that heats the room. There are also shelves to accommodate people. They can be shortened - intended only for sitting or long. On horizontal beds you can steam, stretching out to your full height. If you need to make the most of a small space, you can install a cascading shelf structure on several “floors”.

Selection of material for thermal insulation

In order to ensure high-quality thermal insulation of a log or brick bathhouse and avoid the formation of condensation, it is recommended to use the following materials:

• foil mineral wool– one of the most effective heat insulators in the mid-price category. Of all types of wool, basalt wool is best suited for insulating baths. It has minimal thermal conductivity and high durability. The material is presented in the form of plates or rolls with a thickness of 5 to 10 cm, equipped with one layer of foil. To install it, you need to build a frame from wooden planks;
• penotherm - the base is foamed polypropylene, onto which one layer of foil is applied.

Significantly speeds up the process of heating the steam room to the required temperature and retains heat for a long time. The material is safe for humans because it does not contain toxic substances. It was specially developed for thermal insulation of baths, so it is not afraid of the heat of a steam room. Attaches directly to the wall using a stapler and then secures with lathing for finishing.

Materials used for finishing

Selection of materials for interior design depends on various factors. This is influenced by the type of bath, the characteristics of various materials, and the size of the budget. In any case, it should contribute to a comfortable stay, be cozy, aesthetic and functional. If you wish, you can do the finishing work yourself and invest the allocated money in more expensive materials.

Give preference to quality products. This will ensure maximum safety and health for you and your family.

Wall and ceiling finishing

For cladding walls in wet rooms - washrooms and steam rooms, you cannot use particle boards, linoleum and other products chemical industry. Natural wood should reign here. For walls, lining or tongue-and-groove boards made of cedar, linden, aspen, larch, and abacha are suitable. The surfaces in the steam room must not be coated with varnish or paint - when heated, their fumes can lead to toxic poisoning.

In the washing compartment, the walls can be lined with inexpensive pine clapboard or tiled. IN brick bath installing tiles will not cause difficulties, but in wooden ones you will need to create a base from sheets of moisture-resistant plywood, gypsum board or OSB.

Slats made of cedar, linden, and aspen are suitable for finishing the ceiling.

Floor finishing

The process of arranging the floor is as follows. The first step is to install the logs. They are made from 200x200 mm timber. A board is laid on top - edged or tongue-and-groove, with a tongue-and-groove system. When heated strongly, coniferous wood releases resin. Therefore, it is better to choose lumber made from hardwoods other than oak. The optimal choice is larch. Small gaps are left between the joints, which are useful for ventilation and removal of excess water. This is especially important for a washroom.

The floor in the steam room must be raised 15-20 cm from the main level. This is done to prevent unnecessary heat loss.

To protect boards from fungus, they are treated with antibacterial compounds. In order to prevent swelling, they are coated with a primer. You can install a drain and make the floor with a slight slope towards the drain.

Matte or grooved tiles are perfect for the floor in a brick bathhouse.

Characteristics of wood used for finishing steam rooms

From the right choice The finishing material of the bathhouse depends on the comfort and safety of its visitors. Traditionally, natural wood is used - an environmentally friendly and affordable raw material. Bath culture originated a long time ago and since then a lot of knowledge has accumulated about the properties of this or that wood. Each of them has special characteristics and healing qualities that allow you to create a unique microclimate in the steam room. There are many options for wood that can be used to decorate a bathhouse. These include the familiar linden, alder, larch, birch and exotic Abacha oak. Let's figure out how they differ and which breeds are better suited for a particular bathhouse.

The African Abacha oak is a member of the malvaceae family. It is also called abashi, ayous, samba. This tree is capable of reaching gigantic sizes - the height of its trunk can reach up to 40 m, and its diameter up to 3 m. Abacha has durable wood with a dense and even texture. It retains its shape well and is easy to process due to the absence of knots - the crown is located at the very top of the tree. This is an expensive material, comparable in cost to mahogany, but its remarkable qualities allow it to remain very in demand and popular.

Properties of Abacha wood. The main advantage of this material is its low ability to conduct heat. Thanks to this, rooms with such finishing will remain cool in summer and warm in winter. In a bathhouse, this feature manifests itself as follows: the boards practically do not heat up, so it is impossible to get burned while sitting on an abacha shelf. In contact with the human body, wood takes on the temperature of his body. In addition, it does not release resinous substances, even with strong heating.

The positive characteristics of African oak do not end there. The list of its advantages includes resistance to:

• deformation during drying;
• mechanical damage;
• shrinkage;
• color change with prolonged use;
• high humidity - the boards remain dry even at a humidity of 12%. They practically do not absorb water, even from the end sides

Abacha oak is easy to process, which can be done with your own hands. Thanks to its dense structure, cracks do not form in it when driving nails, and the screws are screwed in well and held securely. Lumber can be easily glued and tinted. In the interior they go well with other types of wood.

Abacha wood is an expensive commodity. If you decide to decorate your bathhouse with this particular material, be careful - choose a really high-quality product.

Noble cedar is the choice of aesthetes. Finishing from this material looks expensive and impressive. Light ocher-yellowish cedar wood has a smooth and beautiful texture. The annual rings and resin ducts are clearly visible on it. Cedar is a natural antiseptic. The finish made from its wood makes the air sterile and cleanses it of harmful bacteria. Essential oils have a beneficial healing effect on human health and fill the room with a wonderful pine aroma.

The wood has a high density and at the same time softness, which makes it easy to process and is not afraid of moisture, temperature changes, exposure to fungus and insects.

The disadvantages of the material include its high cost and insufficient aroma persistence. It is noted that the smell disappears within six months after the start of use of the bathhouse.

Alder wood is very popular. It has one of the most important qualities for a steam room - it does not heat up too much. Thanks to this, you can ensure that you and your loved ones will not get burned when touching wooden surfaces. Immediately after cutting, the wood has a light shade that magically changes upon contact with air. It acquires a reddish tint, which makes it similar to more valuable species - cherry, walnut. The unique aroma of alder is reminiscent of the smell of cognac, and like the latter, its richness and nobility only intensify over time.

Finishing made from this wood is excellent for a bathhouse, since it is not afraid of humidity and temperature changes. No resin is released from it, and this is very important for a hot room. The only difficulty is to choose high-quality material - smooth, defect-free alder paneling at reasonable prices.

Reddish larch wood contains many substances beneficial to the human body. This material has high mechanical properties and is capable of serving honestly for decades. Elevated temperature and humidity are not scary for her. Among the disadvantages of larch is the difficulty in processing - due to the large number of knots and low thermal insulation ability.

The cost of wood is quite adequate to its characteristics. The long service life will more than pay for the investment made.

In Russia, this tree has long been revered for its beneficial features. Its fragrant, pale pink wood is very popular and is often used to decorate baths. It compares favorably with other breeds with its even structure and characteristic shine. Linden is easy to process because it is a soft wood and does not create cracks during the process. The relatively low density of the material increases with decreasing humidity.

A steam room decorated with linden wood has healing properties and is recommended for the prevention of diseases of the respiratory organs, in particular the lungs.

A humid environment may cause the wood to gradually change color, but this will not affect its strength and durability. If handled carefully, the linden finish will delight you long years. The cost of the material cannot be called too low, but it is not too high either. Therefore, it is suitable for most bath lovers who want to set up their own steam room.

Aspen occupies a leading position among Russian deciduous species and is second only to birch. Its white wood with a subtle bluish-greenish tint has a uniform structure, softness, and straight grain. Lining and other lumber made from aspen are light in weight and can be easily processed - cutting, turning, and are resistant to abrasion. Due to their strength, durability, and excellent ability to retain heat, they are widely used in the improvement of baths and saunas. Aspen shelves do not overheat and do not burn.

The main advantage of this material is that being in water for a long time does not damage its integrity and does not “lead” after drying. That is why aspen was often used in the manufacture of well logs.

Birch wood has a pinkish or yellowish with white tint. Old trees boast a light brown cut color with a soft, luminous sheen. Winding fibers combined with dark inclusions form an interesting pattern. Birch has a homogeneous, dense and elastic structure. Thanks to this, it is easy to process not only with machines, but also with ordinary hand tools.

A bathhouse decorated with birch boards helps relieve fatigue and feel a surge of energy. Regular visits to such a steam room increase the body's resistance to colds.

Unfortunately, this material will not last long in “wet” rooms, since high humidity and heat are extremely harmful to it. It would be much better suited for a rest room. You can extend the life of birch trim using special treatment that will prevent rotting.

Ash is the owner of hard, heavy and strong wood. The light brown heartwood with an olive-brown tint gradually blends into the yellowish-pinkish sapwood. Large vessels make the wood texture very impressive and beautiful. When dyed, the fiber pattern becomes even more expressive and contrasting. The material is highly resistant to moisture and is characterized by moderate drying. It lends itself well to processing and polishing.

Picturesque texture, high strength, hardness, low water permeability, resistance to deformation, high impact strength, resistance to fungus and insects. All these qualities allow ash to stand on the same level as oak and even surpass it in some respects. It is these properties that make it possible to widely use its wood in the production of building materials, which are very useful when arranging a bathhouse. This is eurolining, imitation of timber, logs, in other words - a block house.

Design, decoration and equipment of premises

The choice of design depends on the preferences of the future owner, size, character and purpose functional zones inside the bathhouse.

Steam room design

The interior of the steam room should ensure the comfort and safety of visitors. The accessibility of elements, straight and rounded lines of its filling will certainly make the room as comfortable and ergonomic as possible.

The main space is given over to shelves. To make them, narrow wooden planks are used, which are stuffed at a certain pitch. Gaps are necessary for proper air circulation and quick drying of wet boards. In addition, the gaps make the structure more elegant, light and airy.

It is better to organize lighting using small built-in or pendant lamps with soft diffused light. Lampshades made of wooden slats are ideal for the decoration of the room.

A stove-heater is an essential element of a steam room. There are many variations in its design and location. The choice and placement of the heater depends on the size of the room, its configuration, and the location of functional areas. If the heater must heat two adjacent rooms, then it must be placed between them. In a polygonal grill sauna, the stove is installed in the middle, and the chimney is led out through the center of the roof.

The decoration of the steam room will become more impressive if you alternate slats from different breeds wood Aspen inserts become even darker over time, so the wooden mosaic will become more contrasting and more expressive. Inserts made of brick, glass or marble, placed in hard-to-reach places, perfectly complement the interior.

Oven - types and selection criteria

Sauna stoves can be classified according to various characteristics. Firstly, based on the material of manufacture:

• brick - a traditional solution, quite expensive to implement and maintain. Such stoves retain heat for a long time, can heat large rooms and are relatively safe. Their disadvantages are that they take a long time to warm up and take up a lot of space in the steam room;
• metal made of steel - their advantages are small in size, easy installation, high speed warming up. The other side of the coin is that they are not powerful enough for large steam rooms, they cool down as quickly as they heat up, so you need to constantly maintain combustion, they do not have a sufficient level of fire safety, and you can get seriously burned if you come into contact with them.
• metal ones made of cast iron are strong, durable stoves with thick walls, which have approximately the same characteristics as steel ones.

Another sign of sauna stoves by which they can be classified is the fuel on which they operate. Heaters can operate on wood, gas and electricity.

When choosing a stove, you need to focus not only on the material and type of fuel. The most important criterion is the power of the device. It must correspond to the volume of the room. Otherwise, it may happen that a stove that is too powerful will heat the air and not the stones. And if it is too weak, you will have to work at the highest speed to warm up the steam room. In such conditions it will quickly fail.

Stones - which ones and how to choose

The quality of the stones directly affects the uniformity of heating of the steam room and the quality of the steam. This indicator depends on the type of stones, their heat resistance, size, shape, and location in the heater. The best stones for sauna stoves are those that were formed as a result of the solidification of magma. They have been tested at extreme temperatures and therefore have unsurpassed heat resistance. When you hit such a stone with a hammer, a ringing sound should be heard. If the sound is dull, this indicates that you have sedimentary rocks that are absolutely unsuitable for a sauna stove. For use, you can take the following types of stones: gabbro, porphyrite, basalt, crimson and white quartz, soapstone, soapmagnesite, jadeite.

Decoration of shower/washroom

Another finishing option is tile, marble or porcelain stoneware. The floors can be tiled with rough tiles, rubber mats or a wooden grate can be placed on top. You can combine materials and use tiles only in the shower area.

The washing room can be organized as a separate room, or located directly in the steam room. In this case, you need to ensure the location of different zones on two levels - place shelves at the top, and make a shower below, separated by a blank or transparent partition.

It is necessary to arrange ventilation in the washing compartment, which will help moisture evaporate in a timely manner and prevent rotting of the wooden finish.

If the room is small, a shower can successfully replace a bucket of cold water. It will be useful for contrast dousing to refresh yourself after leaving the steam room. In addition to such a bucket, you should put benches for clothes, hygiene products and accessories.

The modest dimensions of such a room do not allow installing a large chandelier. Therefore, it would be more correct to prefer wall spots or spotlights.

If there is enough space, the functionality of the washing room can be seriously expanded. Here you can install a miniature swimming pool, a massage table, and a stylist’s chair.

Arrangement of the rest room

If you have managed to allocate a room in the bathhouse where you can gather with friends or indulge in relaxation, do not forget to carefully consider its improvement. The rest room is a corner that can be filled with home warmth and comfort. Its interior must support general idea design and match the style with the rest of the bath areas. Therefore, you need to make sure that every detail fits harmoniously into the overall style and decorates the room.

In this room it is better to avoid large windows. There is no need for an abundance of sunlight and drafts here. For curtains, you can choose roller or narrow Japanese models. The atmosphere of “naturalness” will be supported by bamboo blinds.

If the recreation room is not also a formal dining room, you can do without a central chandelier. The dim light of spotlights will be quite enough. Furniture should be selected depending on its purpose and the size of the room. This could be a huge reception table or an area by the fireplace with soft sofas and cushions. If space allows, organize small shelves for storing oils, brushes, washcloths, caps, gowns and other bath accessories.

Everyone chooses the content of the rest room in accordance with their interests. Some people need a huge plasma, others will prefer to surround themselves with their favorite books, and still others will want to create a modern gaming area with a pool table or air hockey.

Decoration of bathhouses with billiard room

Fans of battles on a table covered with green cloth should consider having a separate room in the bathhouse, with access to the courtyard or balcony. The room should be:

• completely isolated from “wet” rooms – steam room and washing room;
• have at least two windows;
• have an area of ​​at least 35 sq. m.

In the billiard room they often place soft leather furniture, install an independent fireplace, organize a bar with drinks. The playing space is designed like everyone else similar projects when the billiard room is located in one of the rooms of a country cottage or private house.

In spacious rooms you can install a small bathing tank. It can be made of wood, concrete, metal or composite materials. In appearance it often resembles a trough or barrel. The font may be the most different shapes– round, angular, rectangular. The containers vary:

• according to the installation option - portable, recessed or open;
• according to placement in the bath areas - in the steam room, in the wash room or in the country courtyard;
• according to the configuration - with seats, with a metal ladder, with heating and hydromassage.

Conclusion

Arranging a bathhouse is a labor-intensive, but very enjoyable process. Just imagine how wonderful you will spend time in your own steam room, gaining strength and forgetting about all the troubles and worries.

The quality of interior decoration in a bathhouse consists not only of an attractive design and a pleasant aroma, but also of the practicality of the structure itself. The temperature in the Russian bath is humid air sometimes reaches +120 degrees, so proper lining of the steam room can not only protect the walls from the aggressive effects of steam, but also protect a person from burns and allergic reactions.

Peculiarities

Many home craftsmen are confident that all work on finishing the inside of a steam room comes down solely to the stylish design of the walls, floor and ceiling. This is a common misconception; in practice, the organization of many other processes is required: hydro- and vapor barriers, insulation of floors, installation of utilities, treatment of coatings with antiseptics, fungicides, antiprenes and much more.

The temperature in a traditional Russian bath, as a rule, ranges from +80 to +120 degrees, and the humidity level is over 30%. Such operating conditions are considered extreme for any finishing materials. That is why, in the interior design of such premises, only the strongest and most environmentally friendly materials are used, which do not emit toxic substances and do not emit any unpleasant odors.

For finishing, only such raw materials are suitable that heat up to a maximum of +50-60 degrees; only ceramics and wood meet this requirement. The area near the firebox, like the stove itself, as well as places that may come into contact with human skin, are lined only natural materials with a low level of resin. Therefore, coniferous wood varieties are suitable only for finishing auxiliary rooms. Otherwise, there is a high probability of burns and the development of a spasm of the respiratory tract, which leads to a sharp deterioration in well-being.

Wood must be treated with fungicides, as well as solutions that increase its hygroscopicity - this is necessary to protect the coating from the destructive effects of moisture and prevent the appearance of mold and mildew.

Materials

Many people wonder what material is best to decorate the interior of the bathhouse with. The most widely used lining is small panels used for cladding vertical surfaces. It is made from wood of different species. The main advantages of lining are as follows:

• prevents the formation of condensation;
• is a “breathable” material that does not interfere with air circulation;
• has an aesthetic decorative appearance;
• easy to install;
• has a relatively low price.

For finishing the interior of the bathhouse, finishing with unedged boards is allowed.

• African oak (abachi). It is lightweight, but at the same time strong and highly durable, lightweight, does not emit resin and contains virtually no knots. Abacha finishing materials do not burn the skin. However, this is a very expensive material, so not everyone can afford such cladding.
• Cedar. Ussuri and Altai species are most often used in decoration. They are resistant to high temperatures and excess humidity, and also provide an environment in which fungi do not multiply and mold does not appear. At the same time, the wood has an aesthetic appearance and exudes a pleasant aroma.

Cedar is widely used in medicine, where it is famous for its healing properties due to its calming and anti-inflammatory effects on the human body.

• Linden. Baths are often lined with linden slab. Its advantages include high strength and strength with relatively light weight. The tree of this variety tolerates temperature fluctuations and frequent exposure to moisture well, has an interesting texture and emits a healing aroma that has a healing effect on people suffering from diseases of the respiratory system.
• Alder. This is the optimal material for the interior decoration of a bathhouse; it is pleasant to the skin, and in addition, when heated, it changes color slightly, and after cooling, it returns to its original color. This interesting effect creates additional aesthetic pleasure and increases comfort when taking bath procedures. WITH practical point However, it is worth noting that alder does not emit resin and contains very few knots.

• Larch. This tree is a pine tree and is distinguished by its strength and pleasant texture. When heated, it releases a pleasant aroma, as well as phytoncides that are beneficial to health and the microclimate. Larch can serve for quite a long time.

• Aspen. This material has a low cost, so it is one of the most budget options. The advantages include zero resinity and ease of processing, however, this coating is prone to a variety of fungal diseases.
• Birch. It has a uniform, strong structure and attractive appearance, but at elevated temperatures it can become slightly deformed. To prevent this from happening, when purchasing, you should give preference to thoroughly dried materials.
• Ash. This is a very beautiful type of wood with which you can achieve a stylish decorative effect.

Very good species for finishing baths are meranti, cedrella and ofram - these are expensive types of wood. Their main difference is that even when exposed to high temperatures, they maintain a temperature equal to that of the human body. Therefore they are very convenient to use. However, their cost is quite high.

Not all wood is good for interior cladding of bathhouses. For example, pine and spruce can only be used to decorate the shower room and recreation area. Using them in a steam room is not allowed, since the material releases resins at elevated temperatures, which can burn the skin upon contact.

Wood is used to cover not only the walls, but also the floors. However, to finish the latter, you can also use ceramic tiles, and the place where the firebox is installed is lined with brick. Perlite is used directly under the floor covering - this is sand with good thermal insulation properties. This material is very light, so it is optimal for indoor use. closed type where there is no wind, otherwise it will blow up.

The materials used for lining the steam room should not contain any knots, protruding metal parts should not be installed - all handles and holders are made only of wood. Even the shelves are made without the use of nails, since any metal object becomes very hot at high temperatures and can cause burns. Some consumers decorate their baths with clay, brickwork, salt tiles, bast and stone.

Special attention should be paid to materials that cannot be used in finishing the bath, especially around the stove. Fiberboard and chipboard are flammable products that also absorb moisture well. The only place where their use is permissible is the locker room.

Regardless of the material used, they cannot be coated with varnishes and enamels, as well as stains and other organic compounds. When exposed to high temperatures, they begin to release harmful substances that can lead to general intoxication of the body.

Step-by-step finishing instructions

The interior decoration of the sauna includes several technological processes, each of which helps protect the structure from the aggressive effects of hot steam and creates a favorable microclimate in the sauna. Moreover, absolutely all work can be done with your own hands without the involvement of specialists.

First, the premises need to be insulated and a vapor barrier installed. For this, basalt wool, which has good thermal insulation, and foil, which prevents the accumulation of condensation, are widely used. The sequence of actions and stages of work are standard.

Ceiling insulation

You can start work by finishing the ceiling. At the first stage of the internal arrangement of the bathhouse, its thermal insulation is carried out. To do this, a foil film is fixed onto it with the reflective side down, while the coating is overlapped, and the joints are insulated with aluminum tape. The sheathing is mounted from wooden blocks, which are secured with screws. It serves as a frame for the finishing cladding of the steam room.

By the way, do not forget to protect the ceilings from the attic. Before pouring a layer of insulation there, you should take care of the installation polyethylene film, which will not let dust and debris into the bathhouse.

Thermal insulation of walls

The principle of insulating walls in a bathhouse is the same as for the ceiling. The only difference is that before insulating the walls, you must carefully cover all kinds of cracks and joints, only after that you can proceed directly to installation. Thermal insulation material is mounted from bottom to top, perpendicular to the floor in three layers.

The first layer is waterproofing, which is applied to prevent condensation from settling on the walls. The second is the insulation itself, which helps maintain the required temperature conditions. Vapor barrier is needed to effectively protect the thermal insulation material from moisture.

Floor insulation

The most practical and durable floor is considered to be one made of concrete. However, such a coating is quite cold, which leads to discomfort in the steam room. That is why most consumers prefer wood for finishing the floor in a bathhouse. To begin with, a foundation is laid on which beams and logs are laid. The voids formed between them are filled with insulation; as a rule, a layer of sand or expanded clay is applied for this purpose. Some are insulated with sawdust, but this material will not last long in conditions of high humidity.

Then, traditionally, a vapor barrier and the “first floor” are applied, insulation, a layer of waterproofing and only then the base “finishing” floor are laid on top. The first floor is a coating made of concrete and crushed stone, it is applied in a layer of 10–15 cm. To ensure effective waterproofing, roofing felt is used, and mineral wool or expanded clay should be preferred as insulation. The finishing floor is made of lining so that it lasts for a long time; it is treated with special antiseptic solutions.

The guide to finishing the bath has its own nuances. As already mentioned, lining is considered the best option for cladding steam rooms and washing rooms; it looks stylish and aesthetically pleasing in any interior. You can make it yourself, however, the modern market offers a wide selection of products from any wood, so everyone can choose a ready-made coating to suit their taste and budget. The main advantage of the lining is its ease of installation. To fix it on the wall, it is enough to use simple nails without heads or clamps.

The floor, ceiling and walls are finished in the same style. If the walls are lined with clapboard, then it is better to mount the ceiling from the same material. It is fastened with a small gap, which avoids deformation in case of swelling of the coating.

Such a gap protects against the need to rework the entire coverage area. It allows the lining to move if the situation requires it.

As for the floor, it can be made of wood or ceramic tiles. Wood floors can be leaky or non-leaky. In the first case, the boards are mounted on logs with a gap, which is usually 5–20 mm. The boards of the non-leaking coating are laid tightly to each other, so tongue and groove material should be used for them.

If you choose clay tiles, keep in mind that stepping on such a surface after the steam room is not very comfortable. In addition, you can easily slip on it. That is why experts recommend laying wooden flooring on top of the tiles, made in the form of a narrow sheathing, or using cork. The tiles are laid on a pre-leveled surface using a special glue, and all seams are treated with sealant or grout of a suitable color.

Separately, I would like to draw attention to the processing of lining and other materials that are used for interior decoration of bathhouses. To ensure that the cladding lasts for many years, does not lose its aesthetic appearance, does not crack or become covered with fungus, it is treated with special antiseptic compounds. The tree has a loose structure in which microbes like to “settle in.” If you neglect treatment, then most likely fungi and mold will simply colonize all the wood and destroy it.

There are certain requirements for impregnations: they must protect the raw material, however, they must not interfere with its “breathing”. In addition, the material must be made from environmentally friendly components that do not emit toxic substances at elevated temperatures. In addition, the impregnations used to cover shelves, benches and tables must withstand regular wet cleaning.

The shelves are additionally treated with deep absorption solutions. They are available in the form of gels, solutions and sprays.

Room design options

The design concept for the interior design of a bathhouse can embody the ideas of a wide variety of styles. The most common is Russian classical. This is an ideal option for decorating a wood-burning sauna. Its main advantage is that such decor does not require large expenses and can easily be arranged with your own hands.

The main components are wooden walls, plank floors, laconic benches and always a large wooden welcoming table. This interior is complemented by a Russian embroidered tablecloth and all sorts of little things in the Russian folk style ( wooden utensils, brooms on the walls and other elements). In such a bathhouse you will always feel cozy and comfortable.

Country style is very close to Russian design. This is also a model of a “village” bathhouse, but with national motifs from other countries. Light wood-burning furniture, usually skillfully aged, dishes depicting rural landscapes and bright textiles are the main features of a country-style design that any bathhouse owner can do.

Oriental lovers can be recommended to introduce the features of a hammam into their Russian steam room. In terms of decor, main feature A Turkish bath is considered to be a mosaic, which is used in this country for cladding all rooms or a room with a swimming pool, because this is where such a design would come in handy. In addition, the relaxation room can be converted into a hookah room, place a low table and scatter pillows in bright colors.

The Scandinavian style, which is fashionable these days, has also reached the bathhouses. This is not surprising, because the main feature of this trend is simplicity and natural chic. Deliberate roughness is combined with classic design, and all decorative elements are simple and functional. You can decorate a relaxation room in Scandinavian style. To do this, the surface is plastered with light shades and a couple of bright accents are created, for example, a richly colored lamp or unusual paintings on the walls.

Elements of classics can be introduced into the design of the washroom. If you build several arches, decorate the ceiling with stucco or install a multi-level floor.

Less common is the Art Nouveau style in the interior of bath rooms. It involves an abundance of curved lines, abstract images and bright colors. This is a solution for those who do not like stereotypes and are not afraid to experiment. Most often, this design is used in saunas made of foam blocks.

Steam room

The steam room is considered a fundamental element of any bath, so only the highest quality materials should be used for its decoration. At the same time, as a rule, it has small dimensions, so interior layout should be carefully designed so that there is enough space for everyone, as well as for all the necessary shelves and deck chairs.

Separately, it is worth paying attention to lighting. Usually small lamps are mounted in the ceiling, which will give a dim, dim light. Good visual effect is achieved by equipping semicircular ceilings and combining them with oval-shaped sunbeds and benches.

The bathhouse is an amazing place to relax and recuperate. Therefore, it should not only be hot, but also comfortable. Every owner strives to give his bathhouse an attractive appearance both outside and inside. In this article we bring to your attention some tips on how to set up a house, the interior decoration of which is no less important a stage than the construction itself.

So, if you are planning to do the interior decoration of the bathhouse yourself, then this article will be useful to you. Here you will find professional instructions on different types of finishing, and step by step photos important finishing works, and detailed videos that will help you solve your problems at the highest level. Our advice will help you not to deviate from the principles of construction technologies when performing cladding, cladding, etc.

Finishing the inside of the bathhouse is the most important stage of construction. Its quality and level of performance determine not only the aesthetic characteristics of the bathhouse, but also the atmosphere of coziness and comfort, the degree of convenience. In addition, the materials used for finishing directly affect the creation of a special microclimate in the bathhouse and its healing properties. The main task of finishing is to make your stay in the bathhouse as pleasant, comfortable and useful as possible.

A modern Russian bathhouse requires the presence of several rooms:

• vestibule;
• steam room;
• washing room

If you have built a large bathhouse, then it is quite possible to equip it extra room recreation, billiard room, kitchen area, playground, swimming pool and much more. Theoretically, you can plan and build any bathhouse, equipped with everything that seems necessary and useful to you. However, this does not in any way affect the basic defining requirements for a bath:

• all premises should have an attractive and practical design;
• the steam room should have hot and pleasant steam;
• the washing room should be comfortable and safe.

Finishing has a great influence on the functionality of the bath. Even if you used high-quality material for construction, which does not require mandatory interior finishing, it still needs to be done in the bathhouse. Properly selected materials will allow you to create optimal conditions for comfortable rest, and will also significantly extend the service life of walls, floors, and ceilings. Materials are selected in accordance with the purpose and characteristics of a particular room. Read below about how best to finish a steam room, washing room, vestibule.

When planning the decoration of a steam room, take into account the following features of this room:

• The constant presence of heated steam flowing in a concentrated and dense stream;
• Temperature changes, heating to high temperatures;
• High humidity levels.

The conditions in the steam room can be said to be extreme. Many materials are simply not designed for use in such an environment. However, the modern wide range of finishing materials makes it possible to choose an option that will best meet even such harsh conditions. We recommend paying attention to the cladding board. Its characteristics must meet the following requirements:

• Low heat capacity, ability to warm up quickly and not accumulate heat;
• Moisture resistance;
• High aesthetic characteristics;
• Pleasant smell, no resins when heated;
• Resistance to fungus and mold;
• Air purification.

Today there are several classes of lining:

• C-class. It is characterized by low cost. But its characteristics are not high enough for finishing a bath.
• B-class. Such material may have contrasting spots, cracks, minor damage, and resin pockets. This class includes material on which there are no more than four knots for every 1.5 m of length;
• A-class. Shallow cracks may be present. There should be no cores in the cut. No more than one knot per 1.5 m length is allowed on each panel.
• Premium class. The highest quality and corresponding price. The color is uniform, there are no cores or knots.

The most common profiles are eurolining, tongue-and-groove, Softline, Shtil.

Shows excellent results as interior decoration for a bath linden lining. Its density is quite low, so it does not heat up very much in a steam room. At the same time, it does not release resins. Linden panels provide excellent sound insulation.

Lining made from other types of wood is also suitable for solving this problem. For example, cedar and aspen have proven themselves well.

When choosing a particular material for cladding, carefully inspect the panels. The wood must be dry, high-quality processed, and free from nicks, knots and other obvious defects. High-quality material must meet these requirements, and only it will provide an aesthetic, reliable, durable finish.

The material for covering the steam room does not require additional treatment with special means. Do not use antifungal, antiseptic compounds or paints and varnishes. All these products are harmful to humans, and when heated, they will begin to actively release their wood, making bath procedures more dangerous than useful.

Before you start covering it with clapboard, the steam room must be insulated. An affordable and time-tested material that is suitable for this purpose is mineral wool. She is the most sought after in this area. Another option, no less effective, is basalt wool. It copes more successfully with exposure to high temperatures, so it will last slightly longer than mineral wool. But if we talk about the ideal insulation for a steam room, then we cannot help but recall cork agglomerate. Among its advantages are hypoallergenicity, resistance to fungi and rot, and fire resistance.

The floor in the steam room should be pleasant to the touch, non-slip, not cold and not too hot.

The washing room is intended not only to take a shower and wash properly at a comfortable temperature. The washing room should have a place to relax so that you can leave the steam room for a while and pamper yourself with a massage, face and body masks and other relaxing and pleasant treatments. It is necessary to think through all these possibilities before starting finishing work, and even better - at the construction stage.

In any case, the choice of finishing materials should be made taking into account all these functions of the washing room. The best option is wood or ceramic tiles. If you can choose among deciduous wood for the steam room, then only coniferous wood is suitable for the washing room - pine, spruce, larch. It is very simple to explain this choice. Coniferous wood resinous and has high water-repellent properties. Therefore, in washing conditions, it will perform better than hardwood and will last for many years, maintaining a pleasant appearance.

Particular attention should be paid to the selection of materials for finishing the floors in the washing room. The main qualities of the finished floor in this room are comfortable temperature and anti-slip properties. To achieve this result, the base for the floor is prepared from concrete, and ceramic tiles are laid on it. In order to prevent strong slipping, wooden pallets or removable logs are placed on the ceramic floor. After each visit to the bathhouse, they are taken out into the air to dry. However, the floor in the washing room can be completely wooden, but ceramic tiles as the main finish are a more practical and durable option. It copes well with an abundance of water, various cosmetics, shampoo, etc.

A high level of humidity is maintained in all rooms of the bathhouse. This most important aspect, which must be taken into account when choosing finishing materials. Any type of wood can be used for vestibules and other rooms. But don't limit yourself to using wood. For high-quality and stylish finishing of the vestibule, rest room and other bath rooms, other materials are also suitable:

• Porcelain tiles;
• Plaster;
• Natural stone;
• Fiberglass wallpaper;
• Majolica.

Various combinations of these materials open up wide possibilities for aesthetic and practical decoration of bathhouse premises. For example, the combination looks very solid and beautiful natural stone and wood. A do-it-yourself bathhouse will allow you to turn your non-standard creative ideas into reality. The interior decoration, photos of which are presented on this page, will help you choose the optimal materials and their combinations.

The ceiling of the bathhouse must withstand high temperature loads, and also cope well with streams of hot, humid steam. Do not forget about the need to protect the floors from heat and steam using heat and vapor barrier materials. For this purpose, you can purchase building membranes or aluminum foil. If you put them airtight, their effectiveness will be equally high. It is not recommended to perform a vapor barrier using foil with a layer of cotton wool, because this material is thinner, so it is much more difficult to work with it during the sheathing process. The same applies to foil with a layer of polypropylene foam. When exposed to high temperatures, this material releases substances toxic to humans and is therefore unsuitable for use in bath rooms.

Each joint between the vapor barrier and thermal insulation is taped with aluminum tape to ensure complete tightness. Sometimes, when performing work, the material is punctured, torn, etc. If this happens, then the hole formed in the material must be immediately sealed with aluminum tape, because later you may simply not remember about it or not find the damaged place. As a result, the vapor barrier will be leaky and of poor quality.

The steam room requires a pipe hole. It is equipped with a box with a stainless steel frame filled with expanded clay.

Cutting the ceiling for a pipe hole should be carried out taking into account maintaining a sufficient distance from the wooden ceiling to the external contour of the pipe, as well as taking into account the characteristics of the chimney used.

To make a pipe hole you will need:

• Two-millimeter stainless steel sheet;
• Galvanized box;
• Tie clamp.

The ceiling is cut mainly to ensure the fire safety of the ceiling. In addition, in this way, the chimney elements receive additional support and are securely fixed in place. Cutting allows you to design the outlet of the pipe.

A 400x400 mm box is installed from the attic side. A stainless steel sheet 500x500 mm is attached to it from below, on the side of the steam room. Near the steel lining, the pipe is covered with a clamp, preventing the pipe from coming into contact with the furnace. This significantly extends the service life of the furnace, since the entire load from the pipe falls on the upper steel circuit.

After the box and steel sheet have found their places, the inside of the box is insulated and covered with expanded clay. This will prevent heat loss through the box contour.

The steel sheet on the ceiling provides additional protection against high temperatures.

We bring to your attention instructions that will help you cover the ceiling in a bathhouse with clapboard quickly, economically and efficiently:

• The ceiling is lathed with 2x4 cm slats. They are attached at a distance of 40-45 cm. In those places where the frame is attached, ventilation gaps of 10 mm must be left.
• Horizontal slats are placed on the walls perpendicular to the lining;
• Fastening the panels begins from one of the walls. The first plank is aligned with the groove facing outwards. The tenon of another panel is driven into it. The order of connecting the tenon and groove can be changed, it is not important.

When performing sheathing, use rubber pads and a mallet to handle the material carefully and carefully without damaging it.

• Using special clamps, secure the planks. The clamps are attached to the rail with screws or nails. You can also use a construction stapler, it will be even more convenient. With the help of a stapler, the fastening is reliable, and the time required to complete the work is significantly reduced.
• There should be gaps of up to 2.5 cm between the sheathing and the wall. They are necessary for additional ventilation and to prevent deformation of the finish. To mask gaps, just nail ceiling plinth. The first panel and the last are attached with nails with inconspicuous heads. Such nails must be driven in at an angle, and the head must be firmly driven into the wood.

Do not forget that the sheathing must be carried out along strictly vertical lines. After each installed panel, a level check is required. If you don’t have a level at hand, you can simply measure the distance between the wall and the edge of the sheathing. It should be equal along the entire length of the bar.

If the values ​​obtained as a result of measurements diverge, then the lining must be tamped so that the measurements converge. Otherwise, the cladding will turn out uneven and sloppy. Tapping is done with a piece of panel, which is driven into the groove using a mallet or hammer to adjust the size.

You can achieve perfect evenness using another method. The wooden overlay is fixed and sharp wood chips are driven under it.

The only material suitable for covering walls in a steam room is wood. It is also suitable for other bath rooms, but other materials can also be used in them - stone, tiles, etc. In the vestibule and rest room, you can create original ensembles by combining various materials.

Cladding walls with clapboard

According to the main parameters, wall covering with clapboard is performed in the same way as ceiling finishing.

• The first stage is to fill a thick beam around the perimeter in a horizontal direction. Step – 80-100 cm.
• You need to put insulation in the recesses between the bars. For example, mineral wool. It is cut into appropriate pieces with a sharp knife. There is no need to compact the insulation.

Note! All work with mineral wool must be performed with gloves, a respirator and goggles.

• Then a vapor barrier is laid, each joint is glued with aluminum tape.

Pay special attention to insulating corner joints.

• Remember to leave gaps for ventilation. To do this, you can fill the spacer. The sheathing is created at right angles to the lining. Therefore, if you want to sheathe the walls, placing the lining vertically, then the sheathing must be nailed horizontally.

First of all, slats for the frame are installed in the corners of the walls in a vertical position. Care must be taken to ensure that their position remains strictly vertical. To make it easier to align the horizontal slats, string can be stretched between the vertical slats near the ceiling and floor.

• Separate bars need to separate the door area and the window;
• Now you can proceed directly to the paneling.

It is recommended to fasten the lining for baths from one corner in the vertical direction. Due to this, it will be easier for water to drain from the walls without getting stuck in the grooves of the panels. If you like a horizontal pattern, then the tenon of the panel should be directed upward so that moisture does not collect and remain in the grooves. In this case, you need to start work by attaching the boards to the ceiling. The lathing in this situation is performed in the vertical direction.

The lining is directly fastened with clamps, nails, self-tapping screws or a construction stapler. If you use screws or nails, insert them at an angle, driving the heads deep into the wood. There should be ventilation gaps of about 2 cm between the ceiling and the casing, the floor and the casing.

A common problem that people encounter when cladding bathhouse walls on their own is the need to cut the material. This is not difficult to do. You can cut the paneling with a fine-toothed saw or jigsaw.

The last panel on the wall is cut to the required size and secured to the sheathing. The next wall begins with a panel whose ridge is cut off. It should fit snugly against the last batten of the previous wall. In the corners, elements must be adjusted especially precisely. Determine the exact angles before cutting the strip or panel. Draw a pencil line on the material to avoid mistakes. There should be no joints left in the corners of the panels.

The most important point when performing finishing work inside the bathhouse, this is the insulation of the stove. The following materials are suitable for solving this issue:

• Stainless steel sheets of appropriate size;
• Minerite is a special material with high heat-resistant characteristics. It is a mixture of cement, reinforcing fiber and mineral fillers. If the stove is located close to the wall, the mineralite should be laid in two layers. If there is at least 40 cm between the stove and the wall, then one layer will be enough.
• Ceramic heat-resistant tiles;
• Solid red brick. They need to lay the walls from the floor to the base of the pipe or higher;
• Profile iron is the cheapest option.

Ceramic tiles are the best option for finishing all rooms of the bathhouse, except the steam room. Considering the modern variety of models and collections, it will not be difficult to make the design of a rest room or washing room not only practical, comfortable and durable, but also aesthetic. The most important argument in favor of tiling is its excellent moisture resistance.

Laying tiles is carried out step by step. The first step is preparation. The second is the actual execution of the work.

Preparatory stage

Preparation of concrete or cinder block walls involves removing dust, dirt, plastering and leveling. Preparing wooden walls involves performing waterproofing. Using a construction stapler, roofing felt and roofing felt are nailed onto wooden panels. A chain-link mesh is sewn on top of the waterproofing, on which concrete mortar is thickly placed.

Then, in both cases, it is necessary to nail down an even beam. It will become the basis for finishing. Instead of timber, a metal profile is also suitable. Do not forget to check the horizontal and vertical rows during the laying process. For horizontal ones, use a building level. For vertical ones, you can use a plumb line.

Instructions for laying tiles in a bathhouse

You can prepare the mortar for fixing the tiles yourself. To do this, you need to mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1:5. But you can also buy ready mixture. It is recommended to give preference to a special adhesive designed for laying tiles in rooms with high humidity and temperature changes. Before laying, the tiles must be placed in water to remove air. Thanks to this, the tile will stick to the mortar much better.

Work starts from the attached level. The first row must be laid out especially carefully, because it is this that determines the evenness of all subsequent rows and the neatness of the entire cladding.

The glue is placed on the back of the tile. Use a notched trowel for this. The glue can also be applied to the wall. Then the tile is carefully applied to the wall and pressed down so that the glue protrudes slightly beyond its edges. You can adjust the position of the tiles with a rubber hammer.

It is important to maintain equal distance between the tiles. Therefore, after you have laid adjacent rows, secure special plastic crosses in the corners of the tiles. This will allow you to maintain the same gap both in length and height.

It will take a couple of days for the tiles to dry. After this, you can remove the level and grind the seams. The color of the grout should be in harmony with the color of the tile.

Finish stage- This is the removal of grout residues, cleaning the tiles and giving them a final aesthetic appearance.

With the help of ceramic tiles you can realize your wildest creative fantasies. You can lay it flat, diagonally, offset, or patterned. The easiest and fastest way is to lay the tiles in even rows.

If you decide to tile a complex pattern or design, then it is best to transfer it to the floor or wall so that you can immediately see where each tile should be located. This will allow you to flawlessly complete the cladding and give your bathhouse a truly original and unique look.

Unusual and very stylish solution for a bath - this is finishing with terracotta slabs. They are ideal for this type of room as they are resistant to both temperature and moisture. At the same time, they allow you to create an original and interesting design that is environmentally friendly, practical and stylish. The laying of this material has its own characteristics, primarily due to its significant weight. This tile requires a special adhesive. Mastic will also work.

The installation process consists of the following steps:

• The mastic is spread thickly on the stove. This material will require much more adhesive than regular ceramic tiles;
• We apply the slab to the wall, press it down and level it;
• We continue to work in the same order with the remaining slabs;
• To align the joints between the tiles, pieces of drywall can be inserted into the seams;
• Do not forget to regularly check the parallelism and evenness of the rows with a level;
• 10 hours after installation is completed, you can begin processing the seams. It is made with heat-resistant grout for wide joints. The composition is diluted with water until the consistency of sour cream.
• Then pieces of drywall are removed from the seams;
• The grout is applied using a construction gun. The spout should be cut at an angle of 60º so that the width of the hole is 8-10 mm;
• The seams are carefully filled with grout. It should not get on the slabs themselves or other surfaces.

Working with a pistol requires experience. So be very careful with it. If grout does get on the tiles, do not try to remove it immediately. You will only spread the composition over a larger area. It's better to wait a little until the grout dries. This way you can carefully scrape it off.

• The direction of grout application can be any;
• Two hours later, you can move on to jointing, which will provide a finished look to this finish.
• Jointing is done with a 7-8 mm screwdriver or a wire ring;
• After this, you need to walk along the seams with a finger wearing a clean glove.

The wooden floor in the bathhouse does not require additional finishing. A concrete floor involves laying ceramic tiles with a non-slip coating.

Laying begins from one of the corners. In this case, perfect evenness of the rows is not required, because the floor in the bathhouse is sloping towards the drain. But it’s still worth marking the approximate location of the tiles on the floor level before you start laying them.

The work is carried out in the following order:

• The solution is distributed on the floor with a spatula in accordance with the size of the tile;
• Using the teeth of a spatula, a pattern is imprinted on the mortar, which ensures its reliable connection to the tile;
• The tiles are being laid out. During operation, its position is adjusted with a rubber hammer. Don't forget to form a slope! The tiles for the first row must be dry. It is advisable to pre-soak all other elements in water.
• Corner elements are cut to the required size using a tile cutter;

Having free space on a plot of land, you can build a strong and very functional bathhouse. Moreover, the last factor is due to the competent design of premises, their decoration and furniture. Regardless of the size of the building, rooms such as a steam room and an entrance hall with a wardrobe should be equipped inside.

But such an economical option can hardly be called quite comfortable, therefore, among the recommended rooms for design, decoration and equipment with all the necessary equipment, the following can be distinguished:

• shower, washing or washing room. Basic hygiene procedures in the form of taking a shower will be performed here. The room can be equipped with a small font and a waterfall bucket for dousing;

  
  

• separate bathroom. There is no need to talk about the purpose of this room. It is especially important to allocate a room for a toilet in two-story bathhouses with a kitchen and sleeping area;

  
  

• recreation area with dining area. This room is intended for relaxation after steaming and drinking tea. The area can be supplemented with a fireplace, a seating area and other furniture and decorations;
• kitchen area. Relevant for large bathhouses, where large groups often relax. The kitchen area can be small and consist of an electric stove, kettle and microwave oven. Sometimes the kitchen is supplemented with a herbal bar, equipped with a counter with high chairs and a cabinet for storing packages with elite varieties of tea and medicinal herbs;

  
  

• pantry. A small room with shelves and cabinets should be allocated for storing bath sheets, towels, hats, shoes, etc. It is also worth storing household cleaning chemicals here so as not to clutter the shower with them;
• sleeping area. For example, you can allocate the second floor for a separate bedroom. It will be pleasant for visiting guests to settle down here if there is not enough space in the house;
• boiler room for boiler equipment;

  
  

• billiard room;
• solarium;
• pool;

  
  

• laundry. It is recommended to design it next to the shower room for ease of installation of water supply and sewerage wiring. Can be installed in the laundry room washing machine, drying cabinet or regular floor/wall dryer, ironing board for bath linen;
• veranda or terrace;

  
  

• a small vestibule (relevant for baths that are used all year round).

  
  

Depending on the available budget, you can equip only some of the proposed premises, for example, a bathroom, shower and relaxation area. If you plan to build a truly luxurious health complex, and it’s not difficult to shell out a “tidy sum” for comfort, you should think about including all the above-mentioned premises in the estimate.

Arranging a steam room. 1 - foil. 2-insulation. 3-membrane. 4-ceiling plinth made of wood. 5-floor wooden plinth. 6-vent valve. 7-ceiling made of wooden lining. 8-light. 9-floor made of wood. 10-shelf 11-thermometer and hygrometer. 12-back shelf. 13-chimney. 14-water tank. 15-heater. 16-stove sauna. 17-protective screen. 18-non-flammable base under the stove. 19-door to the steam room. 20-bath accessories. 21-light therapy or LED lighting.

It is customary to arrange a steam room on the first floor of a building. The entrance to the steam room can be from the shower or dressing room. The door to the steam room is installed from tempered glass or wooden strictly without metal decorations, inserts and fittings (except for hinges), because the metal can heat up and burn the visitor. For one steamer, it is customary to allocate 1-2 meters of square footage of the room. The oven will take about another meter. Accordingly, the comfortable dimensions of the steam room are 3-5 sq.m. You should not make a steam room that is too large with high ceilings - it will take a lot of time and fuel to warm up the room, and the air will be dried out from the hot stove.

Video - Optimal sizes of baths and steam rooms

The ceiling height is set from 2.2 to 2.6 m, depending on the height of the bathhouse owners and the height of the shelves, which in turn can be 1-3 tiers. The shelves themselves are made so that it is comfortable to sit and lie on them, and a steamer with a broom can stand nearby and perform bath procedures. The top shelf is made the widest, and the recommended height of each tier is 35 cm. It is better to sew up the space under the shelves to reduce fuel consumption for heating the unused area of ​​the room.

It is advisable to make shelves from deciduous wood; the use of cedar/larch is acceptable. Wood can be combined, but it must be of good quality - dry, without knots, resin pockets, traces of rot and mold, carefully sanded. For convenience, it is worth purchasing or making your own headrests from aspen or linden, as well as a tub and a bucket with a long handle. You definitely need to hang a bath thermometer with a hygrometer in the steam room to regulate the degree of heating and air humidity.

The lighting in the bathhouse is rarely bright. Mainly ceiling and Wall lights covered with wooden lampshades/shades so that soft twilight reigns in the steam room. Additionally, diode tape can be used for color therapy, as well as optical fiber to create the effect of a starry sky.

The stove is usually located closer to the door. Moreover, the heater can be made of brick or made of steel (wood-burning, electric).

Sauna stove at the entrance to the steam room

Sauna heater installed on ceramic tiles

When installing a stove, it is extremely important to properly insulate the wall, floor, and ceiling at the point of contact with the exhaust chimney. The stove is placed at a distance of at least 10-15 cm from the wall, if the firebox door opens into the steam room, if the sauna stove is located simultaneously in two adjacent rooms and the firebox door leads into the dressing room, a recess is cut in the interior partition, its dimensions exceeding the dimensions of the stove by 10 -15 cm on each side of heating surfaces. Insulation is made using asbestos cardboard, brick, ceramic tiles, stainless steel sheets.

Separately, it is worth considering options for finishing the walls, ceiling and floor. In addition to the standard lining and wooden floor, there are several interesting ideas.

Table. Steam room wall decoration

MaterialAdvantagesFeaturesInstallation method

Salt crystals or blocks for halotherapy in your own bath/sauna	They have a pronounced therapeutic effect on the body as a whole, the respiratory system and the skin in particular.	Salt crystals are installed in dry steam saunas. Maximum evaporation of microelements occurs at 60 degrees, but already at 75 degrees the blocks turn into a salt solution. Salt bricks should not be allowed to come into contact with water, because... salt dissolves in it.	Salt crystals are used to make spectacular rectangular wall inserts; it is also possible to decorate one or more walls from floor to ceiling. Cladding with salt blocks is combined with diode or other lighting; to fix the masonry, a two-component quick-setting adhesive is used (hardening time from 10 minutes).
Wild stone or decorative brick	The uniqueness of the interior, the unusual combination of stone and wooden surfaces. Improved fire safety. When using medicinal types of stone, for example, soapstone or jadeite, there is an additional healing effect.	Stone can be used to cover both part of the wall behind the stove and the entire wall behind heating device. Sometimes stones are attached instead of baseboards to the floor and ceiling. It is worth remembering that the stones in the sauna get very hot, so you should not allow them even to come into accidental contact with the skin of visitors to the steam room.	If it is faced with stone wooden wall, you will need to attach construction waterproofing paper to it (overlaps on all sides of 4-8 cm). A painting mesh should be secured on top of the waterproofing layer with galvanized staples or nails (fastening spacing vertically is up to 15 cm, horizontally - up to 40 cm, at the corners the mesh is laid in two layers). The mesh is plastered, and after 1-1.5 layers of plaster have dried, facing stones are laid on a cement-sand mortar. It is recommended to first lay out the stones on the floor and number them for convenience. It is better not to use stones that are too heavy for cladding.
Ceramic tiles, porcelain tiles, polished natural stone tiles	Fire safety, aesthetics, interior decoration of the steam room, durability.	All of these tiles are laid on the wall behind the stove (all or only part of the wall). Tiles with a thickness of more than 10 mm are installed using metal fasteners and pouring cement-sand mortar/glue/mastic into the seams.	The tiles are fixed to the plastered surface of the walls. To fix tiles, highly specialized adhesives are used; for marble, latex or polyurethane based (waterless) compounds are used. The laying is carried out from the bottom up, the seams are laid with crosses or wedges to maintain the same thickness.
Cork moisture resistant coating	Suitable for both additional insulation of walls and their finishing.	Plates are used with a thickness of 20-40 mm.	Installation of slabs on the wall is carried out using specialized adhesive for cork coverings. It is permissible to use cork plinths for arranging a steam room.

Table. Materials for arranging flooring in a steam room

MaterialAdvantagesFeatures

Beautiful, durable, looks noble.	Quite cold, it is advisable to install heated floor systems under a porcelain stoneware covering. Must be non-slip. The seams are treated with moisture-resistant grout to prevent the spread of mold and mildew.
Shock absorbent, warm to the touch, goes well with wooden surfaces. Not slippery.	Suitable for installation in a steam room, because the floor temperature rarely exceeds 30-40 degrees.
Wooden boards and wood mats	Such coatings can be laid on concrete or porcelain stoneware.	Treatment with moisture-proof impregnations and periodic air drying are required.

Note! It is unacceptable to use any plastic, rubber coverings, linoleum, PVC tiles and panels for arranging a steam room. Finishing materials and furniture should not emit chemical odor or resin when heated.

The ceiling in a Russian bathhouse has long been made of timber, lining, and boards. It is wooden surfaces that withstand high temperatures well, fill the bathhouse with a pleasant aroma and do not contribute to the accumulation of condensation - wood tends to “breathe”.

There is no point in painting the ceiling, covering it with plywood, chipboard, or plastering - high humidity and temperature will quickly ruin such a finish. In Turkish baths, mosaics are often used to decorate the ceiling, but it is worth remembering that the humidity and temperature in hammams are much lower than in Finnish and Russian steam rooms. It is possible to use Thermocork cork covering 100 mm thick, specially designed for bathhouse ceilings (cost 3900-4000 rubles per 1 sq.m.).

It is advisable to equip the steam room with one window. A particularly eccentric option is a full-wall panoramic blind window. Such a window allows you to admire nature from your own steam room, while the mirror coating on the outside will prevent the curious from looking inside. But remember that the larger the window, the greater the heat loss.

The most common option is an opening single-leaf window 60x60 cm or 40x60 cm. The window is not placed on the wall behind the stove or sun loungers. The height from the floor to the bottom sash cannot be less than 170 cm - this is the height that implies effective ventilation of the room (natural air circulation). The frame can be made of wood or high-quality plastic that can withstand temperatures up to 120 degrees.

Sometimes instead of a window they insert glass blocks. They allow you to save on lighting the steam room during the day.

Arranging a shower or washing room

The shower room can be organized as a separate room or adjacent to the steam room, for example, separated only by a glass damper or a partition made of glass blocks. A cabin can be installed here or a shower tray with a drain for water drainage can be arranged. If you plan to have a large number of visitors, it is recommended to install two or three showers.

Directly in the shower room, in addition to the shower itself, there should be a bench, a mirror, as well as hooks and non-hazardous shelves for toiletries.

Often the washing room is equipped with a dousing bucket and a bathtub made of acrylic or cast iron. Fonts are also installed in the washing room, especially if there is not enough space to arrange a full-fledged swimming pool.

The temperature in the shower should be higher than in the dressing room, but significantly lower than in the steam room.

Hot water supply is organized by connecting to a central water supply, installing a boiler or installing a heat exchanger and a remote water tank (from 80 to 120 liters).

Water disposal is organized into a central sewer system, a septic tank or a drainage well. A drain ladder is installed in the shower room (the floor is poured or laid with a slope towards the drain funnel), from which waste liquid is discharged through a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm. One person needs about 50 liters of water to take a shower; accordingly, using this figure, you can calculate the volume of a septic tank or storage cesspool for a bathhouse. By the way, treatment and storage installations should not be located near the walls of the bathhouse or in the underground - an unpleasant odor will penetrate into the room. It is recommended to install a local installation 5-10 m from the walls of the bathhouse.

Coating options for wall, floor and ceiling cladding are shown in the following table.

Table. Arranging a shower in a bathhouse

MaterialFeaturesExample of finishing, photo

Wood	Showers adjacent to the steam room are often decorated with wood so as not to disturb the overall style of the premises. Wood does not tolerate constant humidity well - fungus develops and rot appears. It is worth considering the possibility of installing a shower tray or cabin in order to minimize the effect of moisture on the material of the walls and floors, as well as regularly dry the boards and treat them with antiseptics.
Wood Ceramic tiles, porcelain tiles, mosaics	These materials are most appropriate in a shower room, but it is important to choose products with a non-slip surface, and seal the seams with compounds that prevent mold. It is recommended to place wooden or rubber mats on tiled floors.
PVC panels	This material can be used for finishing walls and ceilings only in showers that are not adjacent to the steam room. Plastic does not tolerate high temperatures, but it is not afraid of high humidity. The panels are quite easy to install and clean, but the strength of the material leaves much to be desired.
Natural stone	This solution is not to everyone’s liking due to the extraordinary nature of the interior and the coldness of the coating. However, the stone tolerates high humidity well and is quite suitable for cladding shower walls.

Video - Example of finishing a shower with ceramic tiles

Don't forget about ventilation in the shower. There should be a hood under the ceiling electric fan. For natural ventilation, it is worth placing a small opening window closer to the ceiling, this is especially true for wooden baths and showers finished with timber and clapboard.

Advice! To ensure less heat escapes from the shower room, it is recommended to install a threshold at the entrance to the room, and also install a door of small height (from the standard 2.37 m, 2.07 m, 2 m and 1.87 m, the smallest is selected, and this value should be reduced further by 10 cm). The justified width of the doorway is 75-80 cm.

Bathroom

The bathroom can be a separate room or combined with a shower room. In the first case, in addition to the toilet or dry closet, it is recommended to install a washbasin with a mirror, a cabinet, a shelf, and a paper holder in the room. The finishing of a separate bathroom can be absolutely anything, starting from classic cladding tiles and plastic panels and ending with cork, linoleum, a combination of various materials.

Ventilation in the toilet is very important. According to the rules, a toilet room with 1 toilet should receive up to 50 cubic meters of fresh air every hour.

Often a heating radiator is installed in the toilet to make it comfortable during the cold season. It is also worth placing a boiler here so as not to spoil the interior of the washing room.

If you plan to install a toilet in the shower room, it is worth installing two forced hoods. One will prevent moisture from accumulating under the ceiling, the second will ventilate the space above the toilet.

The finishing of the shower room and toilet is done in the same style; for convenience, the toilet is installed in the far corner of the washing room and is fenced off with a partition, curtain, or screen. It is unacceptable to use materials similar to linoleum in the shower and toilet. Standard finishing options include tiles, lining, mosaic, stone, plastic, etc.

Water can only be drained from the toilet into a local treatment facility or central sewer system. If leaky floors are installed in the bathhouse, a separate sewer network must be provided for the toilet (or an independent mobile dry toilet, for example, of a composting or liquid type, is installed).

Of course, each private developer designs a bathhouse based on his own capabilities and preferences, but it’s worth familiarizing yourself with federal regulations prescribing the rules for arranging baths in general and restrooms in particular:

• SanPiN 983-72, 2.1.2.2645-10 and 42-128-4690-88;
• SNiP 30-02-97;
• SNiP 31-05-2003;
• and to organize a shower and toilet for a disabled person, it is worth paying attention to the second edition of the manual on integrated environmental design for persons with disabilities (dated 1997, prepared by the Moscow Committee for Architecture).

Files for download:

SanPiN 983-72 Sanitary rules for the design and maintenance of public restrooms

SanPiN 2.1.2.2645-10 “SANITARY AND EPIDEMIOLOGICAL REQUIREMENTS FOR LIVING CONDITIONS IN RESIDENTIAL BUILDINGS AND PREMISES”

SanPiN 42-128-4690-88 “Sanitary rules for the maintenance of populated areas”

PLANNING AND DEVELOPMENT OF TERRITORIES OF GARDENING ASSOCIATIONS OF CITIZENS, BUILDINGS AND STRUCTURES SNiP 02/30/97

SNiP 05/31/2003 " Public buildings administrative purpose"

SP RK 3.06-15-2005 DESIGN OF BUILDINGS AND STRUCTURES TAKEN INTO ACCESSIBILITY FOR SMALL-MOBILITY GROUPS

SNiP 41-01-2003 (Heating, ventilation and air conditioning)

Dressing room and wardrobe

The dressing room is the last room that must be on the first floor. This room can be large and spacious or very tiny. In any case, there must be an entrance to the shower from the dressing room. The finishing of dressing rooms is most often made of wood to emphasize the style of the bathhouse. It is advisable to arrange furniture made of wood.

The recommended air temperature in the dressing room is 26-28 degrees. Ventilation can be natural, for which opening windows are installed, which in turn are a source of additional light during the daytime. Artificial lighting should be sufficiently saturated (chandelier and wall sconces), but not harsh.

The dressing room can be combined with a dressing room if the entire bathhouse is small. In this case, you should follow the following recommendations:

The height of the ceiling should exceed the height of the person, taking into account raised hands. Optimal - 2.4-2.6 m;

• the number of seats, hooks and shelves for clothes should correspond to the expected number of bathhouse visitors;
• the floor in the dressing room and dressing room should be warm and non-slip so that it is comfortable to walk barefoot. For example, you can install a “warm floor” or lay a carpet;
• it is worth providing one or more electrical outlets;
• It is recommended to equip the dressing room with a mirror.

By the way, the dressing room can be combined with the kitchen area by installing a corner kitchen set with household appliances. If you plan to not only brew tea in the kitchen, but also fully prepare food, you need to install a separate hood, and also plan to lay water and sewer pipes for connecting a sink.

Advice! You should not install kitchen cabinets under the stairs so that dust from the steps does not fall on the dishes.

Video - Dressing area design

Second floor

Everyone decides for themselves how to arrange the second floor. Whether there will be a bedroom, a billiard room, a solarium or a simple storage room upstairs depends on the size of the bathhouse and the budget of its owner. However, we strongly recommend installing a safe staircase with wide steps between floors, and adding a small balcony to the residential floor.

Arrange the bathhouse so that you feel cozy and comfortable in it.

Video - Bathhouse project with billiards

Video - Construction of a bathhouse with a plunge pool

Bathroom arrangement: steam room

The steam room in the bathhouse is the main room. It is in it that the stove, sun loungers and other interior details that are necessary for proper organization process of receiving procedures.

That is why the question of how to arrange a bathhouse inside should be considered separately, paying attention to even the most insignificant details.

Steam room interior design

First of all, it should be noted that when arranging all items, you need to focus not on design qualities and beauty, but on functionality and convenience. Fire safety considerations should also be followed to prevent fires.

Bake

• This device is the main one in this room. It is this that creates and maintains the required temperature, which means that special attention is paid to its installation.
• First of all, it must be said that the seat for the furnace must be made at the stage of manufacturing the foundation. This is due to the fact that the device requires a strong and reliable base.
• The standard arrangement of a steam room in a bath assumes that the stove will be located in the corner farthest from the front door. This is necessary in order to reduce heat loss when visiting the room.

• Professional craftsmen advise installing protective screens immediately. Their function is to protect wooden surfaces from infrared radiation.
• This screen is made from brick or natural stone. However, professional bath attendants advise using factory-made products with a reflective surface, which will redirect the radiation to the center of the room, increasing the heating level.

• If the design of a sauna stove requires a water tank, then it should be installed in such a way that there is easy access to the tank.
• Taking into account all these features, the internal arrangement of the steam room begins with the stove.

Advice!
Quite often, factory-made products are sold together with protective screens and detailed instructions for quality installation.
These instructions must be followed carefully as they were designed specifically for these models.

Insulation

• This type of work can also be classified as landscaping. This is due to the fact that it is thanks to it that it is possible to reduce energy costs for heating and increase the thermal capacity of the room.
• To finish the walls and ceiling of the bathhouse, wooden materials are used, which are usually fixed to the lathing. This makes it possible to install almost any insulation.

• To ensure that the room retains heat well, the installation instructions recommend using a material that has a layer with a reflective surface. Thanks to it, infrared radiation is redirected into the room, which makes it possible to increase the heating level.
• It is worth noting that to organize joints you should use special tape with the same reflective surface. As a result, the insulation should create a complete seal.

Interior items

• When creating a steam room with your own hands, you need to properly think through the placement of all interior items. This is especially important if the room is small in size.
• Considering that the stove is installed at a certain distance from the bathhouse door, a sunbed with multi-level shelves should be placed on the opposite wall.

• Some craftsmen prefer to make two or three levels of shelves in the steam room. This will save space and at the same time make it possible to get a complete and functional interior.
• When creating sun loungers and shelves, it is necessary to focus on the personal preferences of users and their dimensions. However, it is worth remembering that there is standard solutions, which have proven their effectiveness over the years of use and can always be adapted to specific technical conditions.
• Many bathhouse attendants strongly advise installing a special thermometer in the room. Its price is not very high, but it is thanks to it that you can control the heating level.

• This device should be installed next to the front door. This place can be considered the coldest and all readings should be taken with this feature in mind.

Conclusion

In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic. Also, based on the test outlined above, you can understand that arranging a steam room in a bathhouse requires strict adherence to all instructions in order to obtain an interior with maximum functionality, which is very important for this room.

Finishing the bath inside

The coziness and comfortable atmosphere in the bathhouse largely depend on the decor and level of decoration of the premises. The specifics of the bathhouse require maintaining optimal temperature conditions and sanitation standards; the decoration of the bathhouse inside and the list of materials used for wall cladding are in many ways similar for both the sauna and the Russian steam room. It’s easy to verify this by comparing photos of baths of different construction and layout.

What and how to finish in the bath

The standard layout provides for the presence of four main components of the bathhouse indoors:

• Entrance and locker room;
• Restroom;
• Wash room, pool and shower;
• Steam room.

For your information! Decorating a bathhouse with your own hands largely testifies to the culture and attitude towards relaxing in a bathhouse as a therapeutic and restorative procedure, or even as a daily ritual.

The interior decoration of the bathhouse is the result of imagination and strict sanitation requirements

Decorating a bathhouse with your own hands is almost always done using natural materials - wood and ceramics, less often high-quality plastic that imitates expensive types of wood and stone, as in the photo.

The more rooms inside the bathhouse, the more options finishing can be tried in practice. Each finishing option should help provide the necessary microclimate inside the room and at the same time create a high level of comfort due to heat.

Finishing the walls and floors inside the steam room

The simplest choice would be to decorate the bathhouse with clapboard, as in the photo. For the steam room in a sauna or Russian bath, wood of certain species and varieties has always been used. The classic interior decoration of the bathhouse is made of standard lining made of linden, alder or ash.

But for finishing the walls inside the steam room, linden and alder remain the leaders in use. Finishing a bathhouse with clapboard makes it possible to obtain a cladding that has an excellent texture and a surface pleasant to the touch. It retains heat well and does not collect condensation on the walls inside the bathhouse.

The high temperature excludes the use of plastic, metal or ceramic mixtures inside the steam room, which can emit any odors or sweat condensation inside the steam room. In this case, the walls for finishing must be insulated with mineral wool, a vapor barrier layer is laid inside, and a ventilation gap is created between the wall and the thermal insulation. Even in the hot atmosphere of a steam room, touching the finish does not cause a burn due to the low thermal conductivity of wood. In addition, properly processed wood, heated to a high temperature, releases a specific odor, which is especially appreciated by those who like to take a steam bath. The surface of the lining inside the steam room is not polished or treated with various types of impregnations or sanitary solutions. High temperature kills microorganisms no worse than chemicals.

Floor finishing can be combined. In a Russian bath, the entire floor or part of it can be laid out with ceramic tiles from porcelain stoneware or natural stone, with the installation of wooden gratings or flooring for walking, photo. This method makes it possible to protect floors from excess moisture and condensation.

For your information! Finishing the floor with ceramics makes it possible to maintain sanitary conditions inside the bathhouse at the highest level.

The lining profile has a tongue and groove on the end surfaces, which allows the surface to be assembled with a minimum amount of fastening material. In various profile designs, the lining trim can acquire its own pattern of vertical or horizontal stripes.

Sometimes the walls of a bathhouse or steam room can be styled as timber or a log frame made of rounded logs. This wall surface looks very picturesque, especially in the construction of a Russian bathhouse.

Benches, stools, benches intended for use inside the steam room must undergo special grinding and finishing with wax mastic. This reduces the swelling of wood from wet steam and prevents the development of any microorganisms on the surface of the furniture. In addition, this treatment increases the comfort of using furniture and gives it a nice appearance.

Finishing the waiting room and locker room

The dressing room is sometimes combined with a relaxation room, but this combination is typical for small baths, which, apart from the steam room and changing room, essentially have nothing else. The requirements for finishing the walls inside the bathhouse dressing room are not so stringent, so ceramic tiles, decorative plaster or simple pine boards can be used as cladding materials.

But more often, the owners strive to make the walls of the bathhouse as warm as possible and at the same time maintain the overall style, so even in the corridor or locker room they usually use wood-like plastic decor or even wallpaper.

The floor in the dressing room or dressing room is mainly made of wood; it is much warmer than stone, ceramic or granite coverings, photo. Sometimes the floor surface is made of clinker tiles with electric heating.

In a dressing room with an external firebox, the space around the tunnel and part of the partition with the steam room must be lined with brick. In such cases, the size of the brickwork can be increased to the size of the wall and the heat can be used to heat the dressing room and rest room. In this case, the masonry can be painted, varnished, and the seams can be embroidered with white grout.

Arrangement of a rest room and shower

The second most important room in the bathhouse is considered to be the relaxation room. Most of the effort in decorative finishing goes to the room where people take a break from the stress and heat of the steam room. It is this room that accounts for more than half of the cost of finishing the bath.

The walls inside the room must be finished with wood. Unlike the steam room, expensive types of wood can be used inside the remaining rooms of the bathhouse, photo.

A large amount of steam always enters the relaxation room, combined with a dressing room, so the ceiling and the wall shared with the steam room must be treated with varnish or a wax composition. Often, to reduce the cost of finishing interior walls, contractors use cheap bleached pine lining or decorative boards. After laying on the walls of the bathhouse, the wood is treated with an antiseptic with a dye that imitates an expensive type of wood, and is varnished or treated with wax mastic.

The floor inside the bathhouse is most often laid from pine or spruce timber, without the use of additional finishing, except for the mandatory treatment with sanitary compounds. The light floor inside looks very beautiful, but requires careful maintenance.

When decorating the inside of a bathhouse, special attention is always paid to the presence proper lighting. With proper installation of lamps, even the most inexpensive types of finishing wood on the walls look no worse than expensive Canadian cedar or polished ash.

Showers and washing areas

In terms of materials and finishing methods, a shower or washing room is practically no different from finishing a bathroom in a regular house or apartment. The walls are always finished with ceramic or tiles, and the floor is covered with a wooden grate or rubber coating, photo.

The best option is to add a shower room to interior wall steam rooms In this case, on a warm wall, the brickwork inside the shower can be finished in the form of a thin layer of decorative earthenware tiles.

To improve lighting inside the washing room, a transom with frosted glass is always installed in the room. This option allows, if necessary, to provide additional ventilation and heat removal from the room.

Conclusion

Decorating the inside of a bathhouse with limited possibilities for using modern facing materials often requires great imagination from craftsmen in the use of wood and ceramics. The greatest demand is for original works of graphics on wood and carved versions of platbands, dishes and furniture. In the simplest finishing options inside the bath, you can add drawings to decorative plaster and photo wallpaper for the decoration of the corridor and locker room.

The article will be useful to those who plan to independently complete the interior decoration of bath rooms. Detailed step-by-step instructions with photos will help you perform cladding and cladding efficiently and in compliance with construction technologies.

Features of finishing of bath rooms

A classic Russian bathhouse necessarily contains such rooms as:

• steam room;
• washing;
• vestibule (locker room).

If the area allows, modern buildings will be equipped with a separate recreation room, a billiard room, a swimming pool, a veranda, a barbecue area and even a full kitchen.

Despite fashion trends, the basic requirements for a bath remain unchanged:

• the steam room requires persistent hot steam,
• in the washing room there are non-slip floors and the possibility of convenient bathing procedures,
• In general, the premises have a comfortable microclimate and an aesthetically pleasing environment.

The functionality of bath rooms largely depends on the correct finishing. Even if your structure is built from rounded logs, and the walls from the inside look beautiful and aesthetically pleasing, it is recommended to carry out interior finishing of the bathhouse, as this will significantly extend its service life.

Each room has a number of features that must be taken into account when choosing materials and cladding methods.

Steam room

When decorating a steam room, the following nuances must be taken into account:

• sudden temperature changes, the upper limit of which can reach 120˚C;
• the presence of hot steam emitted in a powerful and concentrated stream;
• high humidity.

A universal cladding option for a steam room is a cladding board, which must have the following properties:

• do not absorb moisture;
• have a low heat capacity, therefore, do not heat up from high temperatures and contribute to the rapid heating of the steam room;
• have a pleasant color and smell, and do not release resin when heated;
• protect walls from rot and mold, help purify the air.

Of all the variety of linings, panels made of linden, aspen, cedar or African abashi wood are suitable for use in a steam room. When choosing a cladding material, pay attention to the quality of the wood - well-dried and hewn, without knots or nicks on the surface, it will serve reliably for many years.

The lining in the steam room is not treated with varnish, paint or antiseptic. These substances are toxic and, when heated, can negate all the benefits of bath procedures.

Before covering, the walls and ceiling are insulated. The cheapest material for these purposes is mineral wool, which is what is most often used for finishing. Often, insulation such as basalt wool is used. It is more durable, as it is not subject to damage from high temperatures. However, cork agglomerate is considered the best insulation for baths. It is anti-allergenic, not susceptible to rotting, burning and fungus.

The floor in the steam room is made warm, non-slippery and pleasant for walking with bare feet.

Video - Interior of the steam room

Wash room

In the washing department, you usually not only rinse your body; here you can relax after a hot steam room, have a relaxing massage, or apply products to care for your face, body, or hair. The convenience of the premises for carrying out various procedures must be taken care of already at the stage of construction and subsequent finishing.

The washing room is faced with either ceramic tiles or wood. Moreover, if deciduous varieties of lining were used in the steam room, then in the washing room they give preference to coniferous species - larch, spruce or pine. The resin they contain has moisture-repellent properties and protects materials from rotting.

Particular attention is paid to the floor; it should not be slippery or cold. It is preferable to fill the base in the washing room with concrete, on which tiles are laid. Although a wooden floor option is also possible.

To prevent slipping on a wet surface, it is recommended to install removable flooring on the tiles. wooden joists. They should be dried after completing the bath procedures.

Tambour, locker room, rest room

Along with the washing room and steam room, high air humidity is maintained in the remaining bath rooms. Here you can use both deciduous and coniferous wood for decoration. The following materials are also used:

The combination is common in such rooms various types finishing, for example, wooden lining, tiles and natural stone.

Video - Rest room in the bathhouse

Ceiling decoration in the bathhouse

During operation, the ceiling is exposed to the aggressive effects of hot steam and high humidity. It is important to protect the floors with vapor and heat insulation to prevent damage to the materials. Aluminum foil or a construction membrane is often used for these purposes. They are equally effective at ensuring they are sealed.

For vapor barrier, do not use foil with cotton wool glued on it. It is much thinner and less convenient when carrying out cladding work. Also, do not use foil with polypropylene foam attached. It is toxic when heated, so it is not suitable for use in bath rooms.

It is important to carefully seal all joints with aluminum tape. If during the process of attaching the material you inadvertently damaged it, immediately seal this place, then you may forget to do this and the vapor barrier will be damaged.

In the steam room you need to lay out a hole for the pipe. It is equipped with a box made of thin stainless steel sheet, which is filled with expanded clay.

The ceiling above the stove is additionally insulated with a steel sheet, which protects the wood from excessive heat.

Step-by-step instructions for installing lining on the ceiling

Step 1. Slats with a cross-section of 2*4 cm are sewn onto the ceiling with a lathing pitch of 40-45 cm. In the places where the frame is attached, it is necessary to provide gaps for ventilation of at least 10 mm.

Step 2. The slats are placed horizontally on the walls, the direction is perpendicular to the lining.

Step 3. Wooden panels begin to be attached from one of the walls. The groove of the first plank is directed outward and the tenon of the next one is driven into it. It can be the other way around, there is no fundamental difference.

On a note! When installing, use pads and a mallet to avoid damaging the material.

Step 4. The planks can be fixed with special clamps; they are attached to the rail with nails or screws. But the simplest and most convenient way is to use construction stapler. It reliably fixes the lining and significantly reduces installation time.

Step 5. Gaps from the walls of 2-2.5 cm are left on the sides. This provides additional ventilation and prevents deformation of the finishing material. The gaps are subsequently hidden by the baseboard.

The first and final panels are nailed with nails with a small head. They are hammered in at an angle, the head is completely driven into the wood using a hammer.

It is important to ensure the verticality of the slats, which is checked after installing each panel using a level. Instead, you can use a simple construction meter. IN in this case you measure the distance from the wall to the edge installed panels on one side and the other.

If there is a discrepancy in measurements, the lining is carefully tapped to the required level. To do this, use a small piece of the same panel, which is inserted into the groove and a mallet (or hammer).

The panels are also trimmed in the following way: a wooden overlay is fixed, under which a pointed sliver is carefully hammered.

The walls in the steam room are decorated with wood. In other rooms you can use tiles or stone.

Wall decoration with clapboard

Basic installation equipment wood panels on walls is no different from attaching them to the ceiling.

Step 1. We fill a thick beam horizontally along the entire perimeter - every 80-100 cm.

Step 2. We install mineral wool insulation. We cut the insulation to the required sizes with a sharp knife. We lay it between the beams without compacting it.

Step 3. We lay a vapor barrier and carefully seal all joints with aluminum tape.

Note! Carefully monitor the quality of insulation in the corners.

Step 4. To provide a ventilation gap, we stuff the spacer strip. Sheathing is always performed at an angle of 90 degrees to the lining strips. Thus, if you plan to place the panels vertically, the sheathing is nailed horizontally.

First, frame vertical slats are installed at the corners of the wall, the accuracy of their fastening is controlled by a plumb line. To evenly arrange the horizontal slats, you can pull the cords at the top and bottom of the frame slats, that is, near the floor and above the ceiling.

The next strip is inserted after 40-50 cm, and then the remaining strips are attached around the perimeter, with the same step. Constantly check the evenness of the installation with a level or plumb line.

Step 5. Doors and windows are lined with separate bars.

Step 6. Let's start attaching the panels.

When covering walls in bath rooms, it is recommended to mount the lining vertically, starting from one of the corners. This will ensure that moisture quickly drains onto the floor, without trapping it in the grooves of the panels.

If you decide to do horizontal finishing, then lay the boards with the tongue facing up so that moisture does not accumulate in the grooves. With this option, start fastening the boards from the ceiling, and not from the floor. The lathing is nailed vertically.

Wooden panels are fastened using clamps, regular nails, or a construction stapler. When using nails or self-tapping screws, they should be inserted at an angle of 45 degrees, with the head completely buried in the wood.

Be sure to leave 2-3 cm gaps when attaching the lining from the ceiling and floor for ventilation.

Often the lining has to be trimmed. For these purposes, use a saw with small teeth or an electric jigsaw.

Before attaching the last batten, it is cut to the required size and attached to the sheathing. On the first panel next wall cut off the ridge and install it flush against the last batten of the first wall. Corner trimming requires special precision. The main thing here is to determine the required angle and draw a cut line before sawing. Adjacent corners of the panels must fit end to end, without gaps.

Video - Finishing a bathhouse with clapboard

Insulating the oven from the wall

Special attention must be paid to insulating the stove from the wall. For these purposes, you can use one of the following options:

• stainless steel - attached directly to the wall behind the stove;
• mineralite - heat-resistant boards made in Finland, consisting of cement, mineral fillers and reinforcing fiber. 2 sheets are attached if the stove is located in close proximity to the wall. When the stove is located at a distance of more than 40 cm, it is sufficient to use one sheet of mineralite.;
• heat-resistant kaolin clay tiles, for example, from the Russian company Terracotta;
• profile iron is the most cost-effective insulation option;
• red solid brick– laid out between the wall and the stove to the base of the pipe. If desired, you can insulate the entire space up to the ceiling.

Wall tiling

Often the walls in the washing department or in rest rooms are finished with moisture-resistant ceramic tiles. It is made from environmentally friendly, non-toxic materials that are safe for health when heated, do not absorb moisture and give a beautiful and modern look room.

Step-by-step instructions for laying tiles on walls in a bathhouse include the preparatory stage and cladding.

1) Preparation

If the walls are brick or cinder block, then they are cleaned of dirt and dust, rough plastering is done, and unevenness is leveled with mortar.

Wooden walls are covered with waterproofing material - roofing felt or roofing felt. It is nailed down with a construction stapler, and a fine mesh net is sewn on top. The preparatory work is completed by applying cement mortar, which completely covers the metal mesh.

A perfectly level nail is nailed to the floor level wooden beam, from which the finishing will begin. You can use a metal UD profile, which is mounted level along the wall.

To control vertical rows, use a regular plumb line or laser level.

2) Laying tiles

To attach the tiles, you can use either a self-prepared solution of cement and sand (in a ratio of 1/5) or ready-made glue. It is more convenient to use industrial glue intended for baths; it can withstand large temperature changes and high humidity.

Before starting work, the tiles are immersed in a container of water and left until all the air comes out of it. This will provide better adhesion to the solution.

Start facing from below, from the attached level.

It is important to lay out the first row perfectly evenly, since the quality of all subsequent cladding will depend on it.

Using a notched trowel, apply the adhesive to the back of the tile or directly to the wall. The tile is pressed against the wall, the glue should protrude slightly beyond its edges. To ensure that the square sits perfectly straight, align it with a rubber hammer.

Keep an eye on the gap between the rows of tiles; it should be the same along the entire length and height. To do this, when adjacent rows are laid out, plastic crosses are placed in the gaps in the corners of the tiles.

After 2 days the glue will dry completely and you can remove the level.

The gaps between the rows are filled with grout, which matches the color of the cladding. It dries in 11-12 hours.

The final stage is cleaning the walls from grout residues and other contaminants. The tiles are thoroughly washed and wiped dry.

Tiles create a lot of space for creative expression. It can be laid out in even rows, offset or diagonally. For beginners, the simplest and fastest option is recommended, when the squares are located exactly on top of each other.

The running drawing looks like this.

Laying tiles in a “running” pattern

Facing diagonally.

To create complex combinations of tiles of different colors, it is recommended to first lay out a pattern on the floor, then outline a diagram on the wall, and only then proceed with finishing.

Video - The principle of laying tiles

Wall cladding with terracotta flagstone

Heat-resistant terracotta tiles are a popular solution in bath rooms. It is moisture-resistant and durable, can withstand high temperatures and allows you to create an original and beautiful wall design.

The technology for laying it is somewhat different from facing conventional thin ceramic tiles. Terracotta is a heavier material and requires special glue or mastic.

Below are step-by-step instructions for tiling with terracotta flagstone.

1. Apply mastic to the flagstone in a thick, thick layer. More adhesive is required than when laying lighter tiles.
2. Press it against the wall and level it.

   

3. We install the remaining slabs.
4. For even joints, we lay pieces of drywall between the slabs.

   
   

5. When laying parallel rows, do not forget to check the horizon with a level.
6. After 10 hours, the seams can be filled. To do this, we use a special wide-joint heat-resistant grout. We dilute it with water and beat with a construction mixer until it has a homogeneous consistency. Properly prepared mass resembles thick sour cream.
7. We free the structure from the plasterboard squares.
8. Fill a construction gun with grout. We cut the nose of the gun at an angle of 60 degrees, the hole should be 8-10 mm.
9. Fill the gaps between the slabs with grout. The squeezed-out mass should not go beyond the level of the cladding, nor should it fall on the front side of the slabs.
   
   

   Be careful when handling the gun. If mastic does get on the decorative surface, do not try to wipe it off immediately. Wait 2 hours, then scrape off the dried compound without rubbing it.

10. The grout is distributed along the seam in any direction convenient for you. You can first go through the horizontal joints, then along the vertical ones, or vice versa.
11. After 2 hours we begin decorative stitching. This will give a complete, finished look facing.

    
    

12. For jointing, you can use a simple screwdriver with a working surface width of 7-8 mm or a rigid wire ring.
13. Finally, put on clean gloves and run your index finger along all the seams.

    
    

Video - Terracotta tiles in the bathhouse

Bathroom floor finishing

If the floor is made of wood, then it does not require any additional finishing.

Start facing from the corner. Unlike wall decoration, an ideal horizon is not created on the floor, i.e. the tile is located at a slight slope towards the drain hole.

Before applying the solution, mark the location of the squares on the floor using a level.

Finishing a bathhouse yourself takes a lot of effort and time. It is necessary to solve a number of important problems - what material to choose, how to attach it correctly, how to ensure safety during operation and create a cozy and harmonious atmosphere in the premises. The recommendations and step-by-step instructions given in the article will help you cope with the task and, after completing all the work, enjoy a good and complete rest during bath procedures.

Video - How to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a bathhouse

Finishing the bathhouse inside: photo selection

By the interior decoration of the bathhouse, one can judge the owner’s commitment to a particular style, as well as determine the degree of comfort. There are many options for decorating rooms, from old Russian wood paneling to original Japanese-style bamboo wicker finishing.

Whichever option you choose, the finish should be properly combined with the interior style.

An original style that combines a slightly updated “loft” and mosaic tiles. The interior decoration of the steam room, as expected, is wood.

Turkish-style bath decoration

A small lounger made of marble and thermal baths gives originality to the interior appearance.

Sprinkler in the bath

Today, almost no bathhouse can do without this mechanism. Attention should be paid to the compatibility of mosaic tiles and clapboard ceiling trim.

Standard tiles inlaid into the interior of the bathhouse.

Fits perfectly into the design and rounded log.

Another example of combining tiles and logs. The room is functionally divided. In the place where bath procedures are taken, tiles are laid, and wood beautifully complements the decoration.

Linden, birch, oak or ash - any lining used in the decoration of the bathhouse will allow you to decorate the steam room in an original way. The photo shows a variant of combined stitching.

Horizontal clapboard trim of the paired compartment. Panels of different colors add originality.

Another option for combined finishing of a steam room. The picture is complemented by individual lighting under the ceiling and inside the lounger.

Stone in interior decoration

The stone finishing of the steam room also looks beautiful.

The combination of stone and wood – modernity and antiquity in one breath.

Decorating the interior of the bathhouse in a fairytale style. Uneven corners and paneling give the impression of antiquity.

At the beginning of the last century, our grandfathers were content with this option for interior decoration of a bathhouse.

Sink with tiled floor, vertical clapboard lining.

How to arrange a bathhouse inside - materials and stages of work

Many lovers of bath procedures dream of building a bathhouse in their country house or near their home. However, not everyone knows how to properly arrange a bathhouse so that it is not only comfortable, but also safe. We will discuss the principles of choosing materials for the interior decoration of a bathhouse and methods of working with them later in the article with photos and videos.

About the requirements for materials

Since there are very high temperatures inside the steam room of a Finnish bath, the materials for its finishing must be such as not to burn human skin. Therefore, you need to pay attention only to those that can heat up no higher than 50-60 °C. This group of materials includes only ceramic tiles and wood. And the walls around the stove and it itself need to be lined with natural materials, such as rubble stone.

As for wood, wood with a high resin content is not used in the Finnish steam room. First of all, the restriction applies to the decoration of walls and ceilings, as well as pieces of furniture with which there is direct human contact.

The only means that can be used are antiseptic, fire retardant and hydrophobic impregnations. They do not harm health and reliably protect wood from destruction.

Characteristics of wood of various species

The interior of the bathhouse can be made from various types of wood available on the market. Let's give a brief description of each of them.

Abashi

The so-called African oak, or Abashi, has a number of advantages:

• ease;
• strength;
• durability;
• smoothness and uniformity of wood without stains or knots.

However, not every buyer can afford such a tree due to its high cost.

Cedar

This wood is presented on the market by Altai, Canadian and Ussuri varieties.

The advantages of cedar are:

• an abundance of essential oils and a wonderful aroma;
• presentable;
• resistance to attack by insects and fungi;
• not afraid of high temperature and its changes, high humidity.

In addition, cedar wood has bactericidal, healing and soothing properties.

Linden

Linden is very often used for arranging Russian baths, since it is quite common in the middle zone and has good characteristics.

The positive qualities of linden wood are as follows:

• pleasant fiber color;
• delicate aroma;
• healing properties;
• resistance to high humidity and high temperatures;
• strength and hardness coupled with low weight.

If you suffer from various diseases of the respiratory system, a linden steam room will be very useful for you.

Alder

A special feature of alder is its pleasant smell and the ability to change the shade of wood when heated. It is noteworthy that after cooling, the color of the wood returns to its original color, and no resin stains stand out. Alder does not heat up very much, so it is pleasant to the touch and does not burn the skin.

Larch

This conifer tree characterized by a long service life even at extremely high temperatures and humidity. In addition, they evaporate when heated essential oils have only a positive effect on the body. This wood is very strong and pleasant to the touch.

Pine

If you decide to make a sauna with your own hands from pine or spruce wood, it is better to focus on species from the northern regions, in particular from Finland. Such wood is not susceptible to rotting or attack by fungus and insects, and can resist high humidity because it is dense. In addition, pine will create a subtle aroma of pine needles in the steam room.

Aspen

Aspen is a cheap material because as it is used, the color of the wood changes from white to dark. It does not contain resins and is easy to process. However, this tree is not able to cope with rotting and fungal attack, as well as other tree diseases.

Birch

Birch board is quite strong and has a uniform structure. However, to finish the bath you need to use absolutely dry wood, so that when high temperature in the Finnish steam room it did not begin to deform. In addition, birch has medicinal properties and is attractive in appearance.

Methodology for interior finishing of a bathhouse

Since you can arrange a bathhouse inside with your own hands in several stages, it is recommended to start from the floor, then move to the ceiling, and end with the walls (read: “How to make the interior decoration of a bathhouse - step-by-step instructions”).

Experienced craftsmen recommend not using wood for flooring in a Finnish bathhouse, since it is quite difficult to dry such flooring, and over time an unpleasant odor may appear in the steam room. It is advisable to choose ceramic tiles for flooring.

Before installing a tiled floor inside the bathhouse, you should level the base and pour the screed with a slope of 1% towards the pit where water will accumulate. At the same time, you should prepare a foundation for the future stove, which should rise 10 cm above the level of the floor with tiles.

The next step is to make a pit near the place for the stove, from which to lay a drainage pipe with a diameter of 50 mm.

When the base screed has dried, you can begin tiling the floor with clinker tiles, which are optimal for baths and do not slip when wet.

Installation of the tiles begins from the corner farthest from the entrance to the steam room, laying it on heat-resistant adhesive with a layer thickness of 1.5-2 mm. To ensure that the seams are the same, crosses or wooden caps are used. The width of the seam should not exceed 4 mm, and excess glue released into the seams must be removed immediately.

As soon as the tile adhesive has hardened, that is, after 1-3 days, the joints should be grouted. There are special compositions on sale that can be matched to the color of the tile. It is more convenient to work with a rubber spatula, and after finishing work, wipe everything with a damp cloth.

At the last stage, wooden steps are laid on the floor, which are pleasant to walk on with bare feet.

Ceiling work

The operating conditions of the Finnish steam room suggest that it is the ceiling that will heat up the most. Therefore, when deciding how to equip a bathhouse inside, it is better to choose the option of hemmed structures.

To do this, first of all, assemble a frame from a 5x15 cm board. It is covered with a layer of plastic film, secured with staples.

Mineral wool is placed in the resulting frame nests to insulate the ceiling. On top of it is a layer of vapor barrier membrane material.

The insulation needs to be fixed by placing perpendicular 3 cm slats on the frame in 6 cm increments. And on top of the slats, the wooden lining is installed on clamps or other fasteners.

If you need to install a chimney into the ceiling, you should install a passage unit or flange into the frame. They can be purchased at specialized sales points.

How to sheathe walls

The steam room must be well ventilated, so before covering the walls it is necessary to provide ventilation holes in them.

The window for air flow is located 50 cm from the floor near the stove. The exit gate is made 50 cm from the ceiling. Wooden gratings are put on them, after which you can start working on the walls.

First you need to place vertical supports, which are leveled and secured to the walls with nails or self-tapping screws. Installation begins with the corner pillars, after which, focusing on them, all other beams are placed.

A membrane vapor barrier is fixed over the insulation and slats are filled perpendicularly.

The lining is vertically fixed to the slats using clamps or other fasteners.

If you want to cover the walls with clapboard horizontally, then there is no need to fill in additional slats - just attach the clapboard directly to the support posts. In this case, these racks should be 2-3 cm thicker than the insulation so that there is a ventilation gap. The work needs to be done from the bottom up.

We should not forget about the arrangement of the stove in the bathhouse. The walls adjacent to it must be protected with soapstone, jadeite or other natural minerals suitable for lining the stove.

The final stage of interior decoration of the Finnish bath

The steam room needs to be installed door leaf measuring at least 190×70 cm. It can be made of linden wood or tempered glass.

If, according to the project, the sauna is equipped with windows, it is better to opt for two-chamber models, which retain heat much better. They are mounted low above the floor level.

Lighting fixtures for a Finnish bath should be selected that are moisture and heat resistant. It is optimal to choose fiber optic lamps.

Well, at the final stage, masonry or installation is carried out finished oven to soon experience all the benefits of procedures in the Finnish steam room.

It's good to live in a private house. On your own land you can build a huge garage, a bathhouse, or an entire water park. But what about the owners of simple apartments? Of course, it’s impossible to build a water park and a garage in such conditions, but it’s easy to build a bathhouse. Moreover, everything necessary steps work can be easily done with your own hands.

Any construction works begin with planning and purchasing materials. The finished bath should have as little weight as possible, so only sheet lining is suitable for finishing the structure.

In addition to the lining, you will need to buy timber for the frame, galvanized screws to assemble all the elements into a single system, mineral wool insulation, foil, wires, a switch, a lighting fixture and, of course, a heating device.

Determine the required amount of materials yourself, taking into account the size of the future bathhouse. When determining the optimal size, keep in mind that one person needs at least 1 m2 of free space to spend time comfortably in the steam room.

After purchasing everything you need, proceed to arranging the floor.

Arranging a bath floor

The best place for arranging a bathhouse is the junction of three walls. If it is not possible to build a steam room there, choose a place near a load-bearing wall, but not an external wall.

Start installing the floor. This stage is performed before the frame is erected. You can make a plank or tiled floor.

First step. Remove any existing trim, if any, and carefully level the base.

Second step. Install the support rails. Boards will be attached to them. The bathhouse in the apartment will have small area, therefore, there are no special requirements for the sheathing pitch. You can install slats at a distance of, for example, 60-80 cm.

Third step. Attach 4-5 cm thick boards to the sheathing. Use self-tapping screws for fastening.

Wood must not be coated with any paints or varnishes.

Tiled floor

First step. Remove the existing floor covering and level the surface using a screed or, if there are no significant differences in height, with a self-leveling mixture. Pre-install low formwork according to the dimensions of the future floor. Let the fill dry and remove the formwork.

Second step. Lay the elements of the electric heated floor and pour the screed on top of them. The laying scheme, as well as the optimal thickness of the screed layer, is given in the manufacturer's instructions.

Third step. Place your preferred tile on the dry screed. There are no specific requirements for tiles. To attach tiles, it is best to use adhesive specially developed for this purpose.

Proceed to assembling the frame. It will consist of vertical posts and horizontal crossbars. Strapping with horizontal bars is performed in 5 levels:

First step. Install vertical supports. Place them in the corners of the future paired room. The height of each rack is up to 190-210 cm. To make racks, use durable wooden boards or bars.

It is important that in the future locations of benches the bars or boards are thicker than in other places in the structure.

Use dowels to secure the posts to the floor. The racks are attached to the walls with several nails without heads. Check the vertical installation of the racks using a level or plumb line. The walls in apartments are often uneven, so you will most likely have to spend additional time adjusting the frame elements.

Second step. Secure the horizontal strapping elements in accordance with the previously given recommendations. You can use screws for fastening.

Third step. Attach mineral wool insulation to the frame. Carefully place the mineral wool into the cells of the frame. If possible, secure the insulation with nails or screws. Cover the insulation with foil. Use tape or pushpins to secure the foil.

Aluminum foil will create the effect of a thermos in the sauna, helping to preserve maximum heat indoors.

During the construction of the frame, do not forget to leave an opening for installing the door. At the same stage, install the door frame - just secure it between adjacent posts using screws. It is better to remove the door leaf before finishing work is completed.

Ceiling frame structure

Installing the ceiling of an apartment bathhouse is done in one simple step: you simply tie the upper ends of the vertical support posts with wooden boards. At this point the frame is ready. Instead of boards, you can use a sheet of drywall. Next, the lining will be attached to this base.

If you wish, you can leave the “original” ceiling completely, but it is unlikely to fit into the interior of the finished bathhouse.

Before the start of the finish line decorative finishing solve the issue of installing electrical wiring in your apartment sauna. In a good way, at this stage you need to enlist the support of a professional electrician.

In general, you need to bring out the wires to install an outlet, a switch and a couple of low-power lamps.

Route the wires along the outside of the support frame. The electrical cable must run through a special protective sleeve. The latter is fixed to the frame elements.

The lamps are connected strictly in parallel. The phase for the lighting equipment will be provided by the heater, and you need to extend the power and lighting wires directly to the heater through metal hoses.

Finishing work

Lining is traditionally used to cover apartment saunas.

First step. Cover the ceiling. Start attaching the sheets to the previously prepared base from the side of the front door. Use hidden nails for fastening. You can make them yourself by first biting off the heads of simple nails using the appropriate tool.

Nails must be driven in at a slight angle. Fix the lining to each frame board.

Second step. Prepare the lining for finishing the walls by preparing holes in the appropriate places for the outlet of electrical wires. The diameter of such holes must correspond to the diameter of the metal hoses. Pass the metal hoses through the holes and begin fixing the lining.

Third step. Cover the frame of the walls with clapboard. Fastening is carried out in exactly the same way as in the case of finishing the ceiling.

Do not bring the bottom boards to the floor by about 2 cm - this will create the necessary ventilation hole.

Installation of benches and doors

The height of the ceiling in an apartment bathhouse, as already noted, will not exceed 190-210 cm. If the ceiling is higher, a “pipe effect” will be created in the steam room: the draft will increase, drafts will appear, and the heating efficiency will decrease.

In such conditions, it is possible to comfortably place only 2 benches. Place the top one at a distance of about 1 m from the ceiling of the steam room. Make the lower bench at a height of 60-70 cm from the floor. Additionally, install a step under the lower bench at a height of 20-25 cm from the floor for greater convenience.

First step. Prepare the material for the bench frame. For this, a beam with a cross section of 4x8 or 5x10 cm is optimal.

Second step. Proceed to assembling the frame. First, attach the main horizontal bar to the wall opposite the entrance to the bathhouse. Use screws for fastening.

Third step. Attach the side beams to the walls and connect them with the front horizontal beam.

Fourth step. For greater structural stability, install several vertical support posts along the length of the bench.

Fifth step. Assemble the frame for the second bench in the same way. Tighten the frames together with screws.

Sixth step. Finish the benches with clapboard. Attach the sheets with secret nails to each crossbar and frame post.

Finally, all you have to do is install the door leaf. The best option for a bathhouse in an apartment is a door made of glass, possibly tinted.

Buy a door that opens outward. There should be no “serious” locks in the door design for your own safety. The permissible maximum is weak magnetic or roller latches.

Selection of heating equipment

Traditionally, so-called saunas are used to heat apartment baths. electric heaters. Select the appropriate power of the equipment. For example, to heat a bathhouse with a volume of about 9 cm, an electric heater with a power of about 12-14 kW will be sufficient. Start from this.

It is also important to determine the optimal weight of the stones. To warm up 1 m3 of space you will need 5-5.5 kg of stones.

Also, special infrared emitters are well suited for apartment baths. They warm up the steam room as quickly as possible and have a beneficial effect on human health.

Even those who refuse to visit a traditional steam room due to high blood pressure will be able to take a steam bath with an infrared heater. Moreover, IR units are more economical compared to the mentioned electric heaters and do not require the use of stones.

It is best to install the heating device after all finishing work has been completed. Fasteners and installation instructions are supplied as standard. Install according to the manufacturer's recommendations.

The optimal place for placing equipment is opposite the benches at a height of about 200 mm from the floor surface.

At this point, the arrangement of your own bathhouse in the apartment can be considered complete. Follow the instructions, and very soon you will be able to enjoy bath treatments right at home.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself finishing of the bathhouse inside