Installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. Suspended plasterboard ceilings: installation and cladding of the frame. Video: suspended plasterboard ceiling

Plasterboard is usually produced in those living rooms or rooms where there is a need to level the ceiling surface or provide additional heat and sound insulation.

A significant advantage of the design is the wires and communications hidden under the casing.

There are 2 types of hanging facing ceilings from plasterboard:

with closed frame or solid;
with open frame or modular.

Materials and tools for suspended ceilings

For solid ceilings you will need:

plasterboard (regular gypsum board, moisture-resistant with reduced moisture absorption gypsum board, fire-resistant gypsum board or moisture-fire-resistant gypsum board);
ceiling profiles (PP 60×27 mm);
metal ceiling guides (PNP 28×27 mm) with holes for fastening.

If you plan a ceiling for rooms with high humidity paint later water-based paint, then you will also need gypsum moisture-resistant universal putty. Drywall is puttied with this composition before painting.

For modular installation use:

plasterboard slabs (perforated sound-absorbing PGZ, decorative ceiling PGD, moisture-resistant decorative ceiling PGVD);
T-shaped suspensions (vernier suspension, clip suspension and others).

List necessary tools:

roulette;
pencil;
level (preferably laser);
perforator;
screwdriver;
marking cord;
hammer;
spatulas;
knife for cutting gypsum board;
saw;
edge plane;
grinding mesh;
mesh grater.

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Solid suspended ceiling

It is recommended to install a continuous suspended ceiling in those rooms where there is a very strong ceiling slope or a large difference between the floor slabs. In these cases, it is not advisable to make a leveling layer of plaster that is too thick, and solid drywall will give an almost ideal, even and smooth surface, and labor costs will be much lower.

For a continuous frame, a frame is made of galvanized metal profiles. In completely dry rooms (with humidity up to 12%) it is possible to manufacture a frame from wooden beams, but there is still no guarantee that the beams will not deform over time and that cracks will not appear in the seams of the structure.

Figure 1. Types of profiles for drywall.

Depending on the plane of the frames, ceilings can be single-level or two-level. The installation of single-level suspended ceilings is recommended in rooms where shrinkage has long occurred and there are no vibrations building structures, and also where the ceiling height is low (about 2.6 m). In this case, a guide ceiling profile (NGN) is installed around the perimeter of the room, to which the remaining parts are attached.

It does not have a rigid attachment to the walls, and because of this it is sometimes called floating. In houses where shrinkage phenomena and deflections are still possible load-bearing structures and significant vibrations, the floating ceiling will the best solution. The disadvantage of this two-level design is that the ceiling height is noticeably reduced, sometimes up to half a meter, so this design is only suitable for buildings with high spans.

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Installation of suspended ceilings

Figure 2. Installation diagram of a two-level modular ceiling.

Before starting the installation of a suspended ceiling, markings are made and the places where the profiles for plasterboard will be attached are determined. A lobar or transverse axial line is drawn in the center, and parallel lines along which the axes of the main profiles will pass are already marked. Using a level, markings are made around the perimeter of the room and a horizontal line is marked on the walls where the lower boundary of the load-bearing profile will pass. A distance of about 10 cm is left between the wall and the outermost profiles.

After this, markings are made to determine the location of the hangers with which it is attached to the base one. The suspension holds the main profile, to which the supporting profile is attached. The connection is made using a special single-level or two-level connector. From the figures you can see how PP ceiling profiles are attached with a connector in one plane or in different levels X. Also shown here are anchor hangers with clamps, attached to the floor slabs using rods.

The actual installation of suspended ceilings takes place in several steps. At the first stage, in the places where the hangers are marked, holes are made with a puncher with a diameter of 6 mm and a depth of at least 400 mm, into which an anchor dowel is driven and the hanger rod brought to the stop is inserted. While holding the clamp, put the anchor suspension on the rod, then release the clamp.

After installing the hangers, the main profiles are attached to them with a latch and aligned horizontally. The length of the main profiles is approximately 10 cm less than the length of the ceiling. Special extensions are available to connect two PP profiles (Fig. 1). Then the main profiles are attached to the carrier mounted around the perimeter. By adjusting the rods according to the level, the entire structure is precisely horizontal.

The next step is to attach the drywall sheets. The drywall is raised to the level of the frame, installed horizontally, and sheet to sheet is adjusted. During installation, the screws should be recessed into the material by about 1 mm, then these depressions will be puttied. IN metallic profile The screws are inserted to a depth of at least 10 mm and at an angle of 90°. It may turn out that the screw entered the drywall incorrectly, then it must be removed and a new one screwed in at a distance of 5 cm from the previous place.

Drywall begins to be fixed from the corner of the sheet in two perpendicular directions. At the edges of different sheets, the screws are placed staggered and at a distance of 10 mm from the edge (if the sheet is cut, then the distance is 15 mm). The pitch for fastening drywall to the frame is maintained at about 150 mm. The sheets are joined only on supporting profiles.

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Treatment of drywall seams

Drywall seams can be sealed only at a certain temperature and constant humidity of the surrounding air. The temperature should not be lower than +15° C, and the room should be protected from drafts and dampness. To treat the seams of suspended ceilings, use universal gypsum putty and reinforcing mesh tape made of fiberglass or high-quality paper.

The longitudinal joints of the drywall are first primed, then the seams are filled with a spatula and a layer of putty is applied. Immediately, before the putty has hardened, a reinforcing tape is applied to it and pressed in with a spatula. After the initial layer of putty has dried, a covering layer is applied, and then a third leveling layer. At the same time, the places where the fasteners are installed are puttied. After the seams have dried, they should be sanded.

It is advisable to fill the transverse seams of a suspended ceiling with high-strength gypsum putty, since it has high ductility that prevents stretching and deformation. The edges of the transverse seams are first removed by 2/3 of the sheet thickness at an angle of 22.5°, and then a layer of putty is applied and the seams are filled. As soon as the putty has set a little (after about half an hour), remove the excess with a spatula, and carefully sand the uneven places. Before final finishing of the ceiling, you can perform leveling again using a ready-made finishing putty polymer based.

Finishing a suspended plasterboard ceiling with your own hands in most cases is associated with many doubts. Wide range of materials and colors, diversity design solutions– all this does not in any way contribute to making it easy to choose something specific.

Why drywall?

Type of drywall (brand)	Application area	Leaf color	Marking color
Regular (gypsum plasterboard)	Finishing walls and ceilings; construction of non-load-bearing partitions	Grey	Blue
Moisture resistant (GKLV)	Finishing walls and ceilings of kitchens, bathrooms; construction of partitions in rooms with high humidity	Green	Blue
Fire resistant (GKLO)	Finishing of air ducts and communication shafts; finishing metal structures in civil buildings	Grey	Red
Moisture-resistant (GKLVO)	Finishing of structures to achieve the required degree of fire resistance in wet rooms (kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms, baths, saunas, etc.)	Green	Red

Among the variety of finishing materials, experts advise choosing plasterboard. This is one of the most popular materials in our country, which, thanks to the latest developments, has recently acquired such qualities as resistance to moisture and high temperatures. In this regard, drywall can be:

The popularity of the material is due to numerous advantages, including:

no need for complex preparatory procedures - material processing is as simple as possible;
low cost;
ease of processing and installation;
wide range of applications;
low maintenance (you need to wipe the ceiling with a damp cloth every few months).

But there are also disadvantages:

lack of elasticity (in which plasterboard is inferior to PVC film);
susceptibility to moisture (if the material is not moisture resistant);
flammability (if not fire-resistant, respectively).

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Stage 1. Drafting

To work you will need a project. To create it, you can use one of the special architectural programs that allow you to get a ready-made diagram and the required volumes Supplies. If you do everything the old fashioned way, you will have to spend much more time and effort.

Step 1. Using a special formula, the perimeter is determined. It looks like this (if the room dimensions are, for example, 5x4 m):

(5 + 4) x 2 = 18 m (P)

It turns out that the length of the guide profiles will be 18 m. Then the obtained data is displayed on graph paper.

Note! If the lengths of opposite walls are different (this happens quite often), then a larger figure is taken for calculations.

Step 2. After this you need to start calculating the frame profile. The work will use 6x2.7 cm profiles - they will be fixed in increments of 0.6 m. It is important that the length of each profile is equal to the width of the room. To calculate the number of slats, the width of the room (400 cm) must be divided by the pitch (60 cm). As a result of simple calculations, we get: 6.66 (the amount is rounded to 7.0).

The first and last slats are attached 10 cm from the surface of the walls, and all the rest - according to the above step.

Note! The step of 60 cm was not chosen by chance. The fact is that standard width plasterboard sheets is 0.6 or 1.2 m.

The mounting locations for the slats are transferred to the project.

400/60 x 7 = 47 pieces.

The first and last suspension is attached 30 cm from the surface of the walls. The attachment points are indicated in the diagram by crosses. We also note that it is preferable to use spring suspensions, while straight ones are acceptable only in two cases:

with a completely flat ceiling surface;
with a structure height of more than 12 cm.

Step 4. After this, you need to determine the number of jumpers that will add rigidity to the structure.

((400/60) – 1) x 7 = 40 pieces.

Step 5. All that remains is to determine the required number of screws and plasterboard sheets. Given the known area of the room (20 m²) and the sheet (3 m²), this is quite easy to do - you will need almost five sheets of material.

There shouldn’t be any difficulties with self-tapping screws either:

“thirtieth” self-tapping screws will be used to fix the drywall (step length – 25 cm);
60x6 products will be used for walls (step length - 30 cm) and ceiling (60 cm);
LN11 screws will be used for fittings: 4 pcs for crabs and profiles, 2 pcs for hangers and profiles.

You also need to note the number of lighting devices and determine the length of the electrical wiring.

Stage 2. Preparing equipment and consumables

Of course, each master has his own list of necessary tools, since in this matter a lot depends on dexterity and the ability to use them. But there are those without which it is unlikely that the work will be completed successfully:

Note! Depending on the characteristics of the ceiling, the list can be supplemented, for example, with clamps for joining profiles located at different heights (if there are large stones in the concrete that interfere with normal drilling), etc.

Stage 3. Guide frame

After preparing everything you need, you can start working.

Step 1. First, use a tape measure to determine the lowest corner of the room. It is marked with:

5 cm from the ceiling, if you do not plan to install built-in lighting fixtures;
9 cm, if planned.

Step 2. Using a level, mark the same height in the remaining corners. After this, several more marks are placed along each wall at the height of the first point; all marks are connected to each other with a pencil, using a stretched cord or a long ruler. Although there is another option - to mark these lines pointwise.

Step 3. A guide profile is attached to the walls. If joining seams are planned between the corners (and in large rooms this cannot be done without it), then the structure must be additionally strengthened to prevent the elements from “moving apart” under its weight. Any dense material is suitable for this - tin, plastic or plywood - which must be placed over each seam and secured to the wall with strong dowels.

Note! A special sealing tape (“serpyanka”) is more suitable for this, but it is not sold in all hardware stores.

After this, the corner joints of the profile are strengthened.

Stage 4. Main ceiling profile

Step 1. As noted above, most often the plasterboard sheets have dimensions of 120 x 250 cm, which is why it is advisable to fasten the ceiling profiles in increments of 40 cm - this way each sheet will be fastened at the edges and twice in the middle.

The ceiling is marked with parallel lines in forty-centimeter increments.

Step 2. Every 2.5 meters (that is, at the transverse joints) jumpers from the same profile are attached. Of course, if the sheet sizes are different, then the distance is determined individually. “crabs” are installed at the joints.

Step 3. Next, you need to determine the location of the hangers. The first of them is installed 25 cm from the wall surface, all subsequent ones - in increments of 50 cm. Anchors are used to attach the suspensions (ordinary dowels will not work, because they do not have threads, and the structure can be “pulled out” from the ceiling under the influence of gravity).

Step 4. Ceiling profiles are attached to the suspensions. You need to start from the corners of the room. That's it, the frame for the suspended ceiling is ready.

Stage 5. Thermal insulation

If desired, the suspended ceiling can be insulated using a special fastening system, which is popularly called a “fungus”.

Prices for popular types of insulation

Insulation

Stage 6. Installation of plasterboard sheets

First, you should understand a number of important nuances: drywall is extremely sensitive to high humidity, temperature, and also to deformations. Therefore, the material must be stored exclusively in a horizontal position, and a few days before the start of work, it must be moved to the room where the repairs are being carried out so that it can rest. This will allow you to adapt the structure of the material to specific conditions.

Further actions must be carried out according to the instructions.

Step 1. First, material for those places where less than a whole sheet is needed.

Step 2. The chamfer on the edge is removed using a mounting knife - this will ensure deeper penetration of the putty material into the cracks.

Step 3. Fastening the drywall begins from one of the corners, the first screw is placed 10 cm from the edge. The distance between the screws is 20 cm.

Note! The screw heads must be recessed. It is also important that the screws on “adjacent” sheets are not located opposite each other, but at random.

Step 4. The following sheets are installed. There remains a small gap around the perimeter (approximately 2 mm); the sheets are joined with a minimum shift of 1 cell. You need to make sure that each sheet is attached both in the center and at the edges.

Video - Installing a suspended ceiling

Stage 7. Final finishing of the ceiling

Particular attention is paid to seams, since the aesthetics of the future structure directly depends on the quality of their sealing.

Step 1. First, the seams are sealed with a primer - this will change the porous structure, it will become denser and, as a result, absorb the putty better. After this, you need to wait until the primer is completely absorbed and dry.

Step 2. Putty is applied to the screw heads and seams between the sheets. To do this, you need to use only a high-quality spatula, with sharp and even edges.

It must be special, intended for seams (this point needs to be clarified in a hardware store or in the manufacturer’s instructions).

Step 3. When the seams are completely dry, they should be taped with seam tape. It is typical that the joints are sealed with an overlap. The tape is treated with putty, and all detected cracks are sealed at the same time.

Step 4. Once dry, apply a finishing coat (such as paint, plaster, etc.).

Step 5. Installed (if they are provided for by the previously drawn up project).

Video - Installation of spotlights

Note! InstallingDIY plasterboard, do not forget about the means personal protection. Use goggles and a respirator - they will keep you healthy.

Operating rules

The quality of the ceiling largely depends on the moisture resistance of the plasterboard used. The average indoor humidity is 40-75%, as a result of which regular ventilation is desirable.
To increase the service life of the suspended ceiling, you should clean the surface on time. This can be done with a dry or damp cloth (in the second case, you need to add a small amount of cleaning agent).
The use of abrasive materials is strictly prohibited!
To ensure that the temperature inside the structure does not differ from the temperature in the room, the panels are removed immediately after installation. Next, a layer of vapor-tight material is laid (even if insulation was previously laid).
Pencil stains can be removed using a regular eraser.
The internal space of the structure must be ventilated, for which a gap of approximately 2 mm must be left around the perimeter.

As you can see, installing a suspended ceiling is quite simple, but only if you have the appropriate tools and detailed instructions.

TOP 5 best drywall manufacturers

	Photo	Name	Rating	Price
#1		Knauf	⭐ 100 / 100
#2

Choosing a ceiling design is one of the most difficult, yet entertaining puzzles when renovating an apartment.

This article will help you not to get confused in the variety of variations on the theme of style, proper lighting and design of the structure, so that upon completion repair work the ceiling has become the final eloquent chord in your new interior.

The building materials market represents a gigantic variety of means for decorating floors, walls and ceilings. Much of what is presented is only suitable for office space, while the other is suitable for use only in residential premises.

But there is a third option, a universal one - drywall, which is suitable for any type of room. The ceiling seems to be the main visual element of any room, since when we find ourselves in a new place, the ceiling is the first thing we pay attention to.

Peculiarities

Drywall is a material used in construction for sheathing, installation of partitions, ceiling cladding, mainly in rooms with dry and non-humid environments. It is a sheet of two dense layers of construction paper and thickened gypsum filler with various additional fillers.

Drywall is a unique environmentally friendly and clean finishing material.

This material does not burn and does not emit toxins, maintaining a favorable atmosphere in the room. The standard size of any drywall is a width of 120 centimeters.

The plasterboard sheet is fixed to facing surface using gypsum mastic or on lathing using metal screws. Being inexpensive, convenient and practical material, drywall has been one of the main elements in construction work for several years, which has been preferred by many builders.

Previously, plasterboard sheets were used exclusively for leveling the surface, but after some modifications and the emergence of a wide range of plasterboard sheets began to be used as structural elements. In particular, the designers liked the material for creative possibilities which he provided to them.

Drywall can not only level your ceiling, but also radically change your interior. Unusually shaped ceiling with lighting, wall panels, fireplace, arch, shelf, partition and much more - these are excellent solutions for highlighting areas of a living space, which will make it more functional.

Advantages and disadvantages

Before you decide on the finishing material for your living space, you need to find out all the advantages and disadvantages of plasterboard sheets. Having the knowledge and intricacies of this material, you can insure yourself in the future against disappointment and all sorts of unpleasant situations during the repair process. The use of plasterboard in ceiling construction has both positive and negative qualities. Let's analyze each of them.

Advantages:

Easy installation. When installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling, there is no need to wait for the solution to dry, given the dimensions of the living space and even the meager skills of repair work - finishing takes no more than three days.
Light weight material.
Wide choice of shapes– with the help of drywall you have the opportunity to implement multi-level structures various forms with unusual curves.
High ductility– when using water, drywall takes the shape you need.
Possesses high level noise and heat insulation. Using this material, you will increase the insulation characteristics of the room.

Communication camouflage. Easy and fast production various designs, in which you can hide a wire, cable, pipe, air duct and different kinds communications.
The surfaces of plasterboard structures can be used for further painting, pasting any kind of wallpaper, tiling with ceramics and tiles.
Wide choice of material. The market makes it possible to select the desired hemmed plasterboard of the required thickness with different operating properties. For example, moisture-resistant material is used for cladding in rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom).
Lighting system. A plasterboard ceiling is often used as a frame for any type of lighting.

With all the advantages of this material, you should be prepared for certain disadvantages:

Reducing the height of the room. Suspended ceiling structures take up about five centimeters of height due to the use of additional relief profiles; accordingly, they are contraindicated in low rooms.
The appearance of cracks. If the drywall is installed incorrectly, cracks may appear at the joint in the future.
To preserve the material in its original form, certain conditions are necessary, namely, it is prohibited to store drywall in rooms with high humidity and lack of heating.

It is not advisable to use plasterboard for ceiling cladding in a room where there is a high probability of being flooded from above, since the plasterboard sheet swells under the influence of water, the mass becomes larger and the structure may collapse.
When installing plasterboard shelves, it is not recommended to fix massive elements on them, since the gypsum “filling” is easy to damage.
Upon completion of installation, it is extremely difficult to carry out extraordinary finishing work, to mask the joints of the gypsum sheets and the cracks that have arisen.
Fragility. Plasterboard sheets can break during careless transportation, installation and operation, so you need to be extremely careful and careful when repairing or constructing ceiling partitions. It is also recommended to refrain from using drywall where you plan to install a heavy structure, for example, a massive chandelier. In this case, use a double layer of drywall for finishing. This will ensure secure fastening.

Kinds

After assessing all the possible advantages and minor but important disadvantages, you need to decide on a specific type of drywall that will meet exactly your needs.

So, in the renovation of residential premises there are several types of drywall. They have different properties. These are the ones worth focusing on.

GKL– gypsum sheets, which are lined on both sides with light and soft cardboard fixed on the surface of the gypsum. The standard size of such a sheet varies and ranges in length from 2000 to 3000 millimeters. The width usually remains the same - 1200 millimeters. Thickness – 12 or 9 millimeters. For residential premises, it is recommended to resort to sheets with a thickness of no more than 9 millimeters to weaken the mass of the ceiling structures.

Widely used in the implementation of design and construction plans for the repair and installation of walls and partitions. The cardboard used in production is gray shades.

GKLO– fire-resistant plasterboard sheets. This type material, surprisingly, is not used in residential premises, but is widespread in industrial buildings, for finishing the air duct and communication shaft.

GKLV– moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets. They are used in rooms with high humidity, namely in the bathroom, kitchen, toilet, if available. exhaust ventilation and protecting the front surface with a waterproofing compound, waterproof paint, primer or ceramic tile finish. Green cardboard is used in production.

GKLVO– mixed-type plasterboard sheets, highly resistant to fire and moisture, combine all the characteristics of the previously mentioned types.

GVL– gypsum fiber sheets. During production they are not fixed with cardboard, like the previous ones. Gypsum is strengthened using special high-quality cellulose waste paper. This type of sheet has high strength and heat resistance to fire and flame. It matches standard size an ordinary sheet with a thickness of more than 6 or 10 millimeters. GVLV – gypsum fiber moisture resistant sheets.

Arched plasterboard sheets have the smallest thickness of the previously presented types - less than six millimeters. Used to reproduce various types of designs of different radii of curves and curved lines.

Facade plasterboard sheets covered with a layer of fiberglass, have standard thickness at 12 millimeters. The cardboard used in production is yellow.

Plasterboard sheets with insulation– a modification material in which polystyrene foam blocks are fixed to standard sheets with an adhesive base. The insulated layers reach 60 millimeters, which makes it possible to increase the insulation parameter of the wall several times.

Vinyl Coated Plasterboard Sheets– another modification of our time, which increases its versatility. The gypsum board package has been expanded and today you can purchase a profile with a decorated vinyl coating, which will allow you to install walls with a ready-made color scheme.

With the help of such a gypsum board you can make both single-level and multi-level ceiling.

Forms

The use of plasterboard sheets to give a smooth surface to walls and ceilings during repairs has long become widespread. The manufacture of complex structures and decoration of the ceiling has become possible using a standard plasterboard sheet. Such ceilings create interesting lighting solutions and become real works of art.

There are many options for using plasterboard forms, and for this it is not at all necessary to turn to the services of a builder or decorator. However, there are some conditions for the use of decorative forms on ceiling cladding that you need to familiarize yourself with.

Ceiling rectangular shape from plasterboard- This is a universal option, as it is suitable for all types of premises. It copes well with its function – correcting the shape of the room. For example, a rectangular ceiling is intended for a narrow space; it will visually expand the walls.

Figured ceiling square shape from plasterboard- This is a kind of rectangle, but is found mainly in residential premises with the corresponding characteristics. For this type of room, a multi-level ceiling with a circle in the center of the structure is recommended.

Ceiling round shape – the best option to highlight the center of the living space, for example, where there should be a table, a sofa or a place with the largest concentration of people.

Oval and curved ceiling made of plasterboard visually enlarges the room; this type of ceiling is used for unobtrusive zoning of space, regardless of its dimensions and shape.

Abstract or geometric volumetric ceiling made of plasterboard - this can be the shape of a flower or a geometric figure, it serves solely to add decorativeness and originality to the living space.

Project

To construct a complex multi-level plasterboard ceiling, it is necessary to resort to specialized computer program, it will calculate the recommended amount of material.

In this article we will look at a single-level ceiling structure without complex decoration. Creating single-level ceilings does not involve developing a complex project.

Calculating it at home will not be difficult; the only nuance in this project that cannot be ignored is how the lighting fixtures will be located so that during installation the fixtures do not coincide with the location of the supporting metal profiles.

For clarity and approximate calculation schemes, let’s take a room measuring 3 by 6 meters as an example:

The first thing on the priority list is to calculate the perimeter of the required room, in in this case P = 6 + 6 + 3 + 3 = 18 meters. This is the required number of ceiling profile guides. Be prudent and purchase a small supply in advance in case difficulties arise during installation. Do not forget that often the walls in residential premises are not equal to each other, in this case, focus on the value that is greater.

Then you need to calculate the required volume for load-bearing ceiling profiles. This device is very important. As an example, let’s take a gap of 50 centimeters in length - the distance at which the profiles will be fixed one after another. When a plasterboard sheet is fixed along the length of the room, the size of the standard sheet is 2500 mm, therefore, the boundaries fall on the load-bearing elements of the profile.

So, we substitute our parameters and do not forget that 6 m = 600 cm, therefore, 600: 50 = 12. Twelve pieces is the required amount of profile.

The second option is for placing plasterboard sheets across the width of the room. In this case, the gap should be sixty centimeters long: 600: 60 = 10. Ten pieces is the recommended amount of profile.

The next stage involves calculating the number of hangers. The hangers are fixed to the supporting profiles at a length of sixty centimeters. Let's take a three-meter long profile as an example. Accordingly, 300: 60 = 5. Five pieces is the required number of hangers. We have twelve load-bearing ceiling profiles at our disposal, therefore 12 * 5 = 60.

At the last stage, the required volume of crabs is calculated - cross-shaped elements for fixing the frame structure. In our case, it is recommended to purchase 24 crabs, in other words, twice as many as the ceiling profiles calculated in the second stage.

Draw up your drawings carefully to make your work easier in the future.

Equipment and materials

An extremely important stage in the installation of a plasterboard ceiling is, of course, the preparation of everyone necessary materials and tools.

So, to work with plasterboard sheets you need:

guide profiles;
ceiling profiles - do not give preference to cheaper material, as thinner material is used in manufacturing, which can lead to sagging;
A rather important device is a U-shaped suspension;
profile connectors;
fasteners – dowels, anchors;
plasterboard sheets - the ceiling is usually installed from sheets whose thickness reaches 9 millimeters; with a larger size there is a risk of some difficulties (a more durable frame structure or alternative technology installation);

screws for metal and drywall;
sealing tapes;
materials for thermal and waterproofing;
Decoration Materials;
jigsaw and metal scissors, hammer;
tape measure, level - it is recommended to use two different levels (the first - up to a meter, the second - from two to 3 meters);
construction knife;
hammer drill, screwdriver;
consumables.

Installation

Upon completion of the preparation of all the necessary tools and materials, after developing the project, you can begin the most interesting stage of the entire work - installation of drywall, as well as the finishing that follows.

You can hem the plasterboard yourself, without turning to the services of professionals, but it would be a good idea to ask someone to help you. The filing of this material should occur in several stages.

Frame and thermal insulation

First you need to use a tape measure or level to measure all the corners of the living space. By height we determine the shortest angle of all. We mark it 5 centimeters from the ceiling, provided that in further installation lighting fixtures are not planned, 9 centimeters - with the planned installation.

Using a level, similar marks are indicated in other corners. Marks are then placed along the walls at the same level as the first mark. It is necessary to collect all the marks in one line using a long ruler or a stretched cord - this is quite simple to do. Next, guide profiles are fixed to the walls.

In a large room, it is advisable to begin strengthening the structure at the joints in advance. to avoid displacement of materials under their weight. You can sheathe the ceiling with anything. Any dense materials will do for strengthening.- plastic, plywood, which must be fixed on top of each joining seam and attached to the wall using dowels. Afterwards, the corner joints of the profiles are secured.

A standard sheet of drywall is 120 by 250 centimeters, and therefore It is recommended to screw the ceiling profile at a distance of 40 centimeters, since the sheets will be secured along the borders and in the middle. Next, the ceiling is marked with lines parallel to each other at a distance of 40 centimeters.

At the transverse joint, you need to screw a jumper made of the same material as the profile. After that, a crab is installed - a cross-shaped element to strengthen the frame structure. Next, the location of the suspension is determined. The main suspension is installed 20 - 25 from the wall, the next ones - at a distance of 50 centimeters.

An anchor is used to fix the suspension; the usual dowel is not suitable in this case, since there is no thread and there is a possibility that the structure may not hold up. Ceiling profiles must be attached strictly to the suspensions. Start work from the corner of the room. And with this, the frame structure for the plasterboard ceiling is ready.

Special attention should be paid to the installation of thermal insulation. This is a simple and straightforward process that will require a little patience. The ceiling is insulated according to the same scheme as the walls. After installing the frame structure, the empty areas that have formed in the middle of the frame and the existing floor slab are filled with mineral insulation, the basis of which is fiberglass. After which you can start laying electrical communications.

There is one important nuance- built-in lighting devices can cause overheating, and it does not matter what type of lamps you prefer - energy-saving, diode or incandescent lamps. Powerful overheating will provoke a number of unpleasant consequences. Nearby wires can melt, after which, at best, a short circuit will occur, and at worst, a fire will occur.

Removing some of the insulation will solve the overheating problem, but the insulation function will be greatly reduced. In this case, it is recommended to abandon the installation of a built-in lighting system and opt for a chandelier or wall lamp.

Pay special attention to the initial preparation of drywall. He needs to rest for a while room temperature . Drywall should be stored exclusively in a horizontal position. At the initial stage, the chamfer is removed from the drywall. In other words, parts of the edges are cut at a 45 degree angle. This procedure is necessary to ensure the reliability of further finishing works. Today, many manufacturers produce sheets with processed edges.

Installation of plasterboard sheets begins from the corners. They are fixed using self-tapping screws at a distance of 15 centimeters. It is customary to place screws on adjacent sheets in a checkerboard pattern. The sheets are attached a little randomly. This means that the sheets are not joined on the same line - this will allow the drywall to attach more securely. The installation of drywall is completed, the final stage is finishing.

Finishing work

After completing the main work on installing a plasterboard structure, many people wonder what finishing work comes next. There are many variations on this theme - paint, wallpaper, use decorative putty or polyurethane elements for decorative purposes. The question is really difficult.

Let's start with the fact that the resulting plane must be made uniform - this will help hide all kinds of seams, joints and joints of sheets. In addition, if there is a question about painting or finishing with thin decorative plaster, the ceiling needs to be leveled in any case.

Water-based and water-dispersion paints are the most popular materials for ceiling finishing work.

Water-based paint is a paint consisting of small drops of oil that are dissolved in water. Water-dispersion paint- this is a combination of small particles of different polymers, it is resistant to washing and does not have a pungent odor. Both work well for painting drywall surfaces, in addition, they have one feature - it is possible to choose a matte base. This is true for the case when there are small errors on the ceiling that remain after puttying. This will camouflage them perfectly.

Gloss-based paint, on the contrary, will expose all the roughness and imperfections. Its use is appropriate only when the quality of the coating is ideal, for example, it is previously covered with wallpaper. The use of oil-based paint on ceilings is not recommended.

Wallpapering involves two options for subsequent events - with or without painting. The choice of shade and color is something with which you need to be careful and attentive. An overly dark shade will create the atmosphere of a low, pressing ceiling, while a light shade will visually increase the height of the living space. Both options require you to take into account the existing relief pattern on the wallpaper. There is no point in gluing embossed wallpaper so that it gets lost under impressive layers of paint.

It is worth mentioning this type of finish as liquid wallpaper. This is a fairly commonly used material for finishing work, which fits perfectly on drywall. They are similar in composition to thick paint, to which decorative filler was added.

The choice of plaster for the ceiling is yours; the only thing is that it is not recommended to use water-based decorative plasters. The gypsum sheet does not tolerate moisture, which causes it to swell, lose its shape, and the entire structure becomes deformed. Used in rooms with high humidity decorative plaster on acrylic base. It copes perfectly with the effects of humidity and at the same time retains its properties.

Based on the size of the filler, plasters are divided into several types:

low-texture– filler up to 1 millimeter;
medium texture– filler up to 1.5 millimeters;
large– filler from 3 to 5 millimeters;
fine-textured– filler less than 1 millimeter.

When choosing plaster, keep in mind that thin fillers will not mask uneven surface. Give preference to denser fillers.

Tiles are another attractive option for finishing a plasterboard ceiling. But there is one condition here - it is necessary to treat the entire surface of the plasterboard ceiling with a primer in advance. If you ignore this step, the tile will not last long and will fall off at any moment.

Ceiling products are rarely finished ceramic tiles, in this case, a material such as polyurethane or polystyrene is used. Such materials stick easier and faster.

There are really a lot of options for finishing plasterboard surfaces with your own hands; the choice depends on the characteristics of the living space and plans for decorating the entire room. Our step-by-step instruction will certainly help you install drywall and finish the ceiling.

Do not neglect the steps and materials for preparing the surface for future finishing, for example, leveling the surface with putty.

Sooner or later, when working with plasterboard sheets, you will encounter a situation where the sheet will need to be cut to size. To do this, use a tape measure, a ruler and a sharp construction knife, stationery will also work. Having made the markings, slowly cut the cardboard layer using a knife, trying to catch the gypsum filler. Then place the sheet on the edge of the table and with a sharp movement break the gypsum filler to the bottom cardboard layer.

Preparatory work with drywall are not limited to just cutting it to required size. If you want to get a smooth surface, the joints and seams need to be masked after installation on metal frame structure. For this purpose, the technology of chamfering along the edges of the plasterboard sheet is used. The dimensions of the chamfers directly depend on the chosen method by which the plasterboard sheets will be puttied.

If you choose the method using reinforcing tape, then the chamfers are removed at a 45-degree angle. When using putty with self-adhesive serpyanka, it is necessary to chamfer at a 25-degree angle, which is already two-thirds of the sheet density. To carry out this process, you need to purchase a specialized edge plane.

Puttying plasterboard sheets and sealing joints is inevitable if you need a smooth surface without seams.

Grouting of joints and seams is carried out strictly after dust, crumbs and other small particles left behind have been removed. installation work. After that, the drywall is treated with a primer, which increases the adhesion of the sheets to the putty. After the first layer, you need to wait until it dries completely, then apply the second layer, and remove the excess with a spatula. After the putty joint has dried, it is actively sanded using sandpaper . The same procedure is applied to places that are fixed with self-tapping screws, as well as all corners.

As stated earlier, plasterboard sheets can take on any sophisticated curved shape. Before you start shaping drywall, you need to remember that dry sheets can be bent, provided that the radius does not exceed the established standards:

sheet thickness 6 mm– radius not less than 1000 millimeters;
sheet thickness 9 millimeters– radius 2000 millimeters;
thickness 12 millimeters– radius 2700 millimeters.

In the desire to save money, many people prefer a wooden frame made from slats and timber. Such a frame will perform the function of securing the plasterboard sheet, but how durable this structure is is another question.

It is no secret that wood has low resistance to moisture and is susceptible to it even more than plasterboard. As a result, you will experience constant deformation of the wood frame, which leads to new chips, cracks and uneven joints. In addition, wood is natural natural material, which is preferred by many insects. When working with drywall metal carcass can give you a guarantee for a long and strong fastening of the sheets and will save you from many difficulties in the future.

Beautiful examples in the interior

A plasterboard ceiling is a good opportunity not only to give the ceiling a more elegant look, but also to play a significant role in the interior of the room, for example, to highlight any interior object. In this case, these are columns.

The sharp curves of the ceiling emphasize their massiveness and elegance. And the diagonal built-in lighting gives the space symmetry and harmony.

The complex designs of plasterboard structures immediately attract attention and give the living space new uniform, changing it beyond recognition. The interior looks richer and more refined. A smooth flexible line and built-in lighting give an atmosphere of warmth and comfort.

A correctly selected plasterboard ceiling design will radically change the atmosphere of the entire living space: it will add height, volume, luxury and increase space. The so-called floating plasterboard ceiling with lighting fixtures - one of the most popular options, suitable for both private houses and apartments.

Suspended plasterboard ceilings can be found in many houses and apartments today. We will talk about how to install such a structure with your own hands in this article.

First of all, you need to draw a drawing of the frame on paper or on the wall, with a separate frame, and a separate layout of the gypsum board sheets. Consider the arrangement of the sheets - along or across, this will help save materials. In the drawing you can determine the installation locations of the hangers so that they do not fall on the junction of the main and load-bearing profiles.

For marking we use a level or a cutting cord.

Frame assembly

We fix the guide profile 28/27 on the walls along the perimeter. The profile is made of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.6 mm. We glue sealing tape to the base of the profile. It, being an element of sound insulation, dampens vibrations and to some extent protects plasterboard sheathing from cracks.

The profile fixation step is 50 centimeters, i.e. One profile 3 m long requires 6 dowels.

Drywall is not screwed to the guide profile!

The main profiles will come from the window. Let's place all the profiles on the ceiling and connect them at the same level.

We fix the hangers starting from the corner and the window. The first line of suspensions is fixed at a distance of 10 cm from the window, then 40 cm and then a step of 50 cm. The longitudinal pitch of the profile will be 120 cm, the width of the plasterboard sheet.

The length of a standard profile is almost always less than the length of the ceiling, so we use extensions.

We fix the connector (or simply “crab”) at a distance of 120 cm from the wall.

We install the load-bearing ceiling profile 6027 in increments of 50 cm, but we fix the load-bearing profile closest to the wall with a distance of 10 cm, the next one at a distance of 40 cm, and all the rest - 50 cm. The edge of the load-bearing profile, which is inserted into the guide profile, is NOT fixed.

At this stage it is very important to attach a diagram of the lamps and make sure that the lamps do not fall on the frame. After all, a suspended ceiling is rarely without lamps.

Main mistakes:

using the wrong profiles;
use plasterboard with a thickness of 9.5 mm;
The suspended ceiling frame is assembled according to the principle “the narrower, the stronger,” i.e. take a step between the main profile over the entire surface of 30–40 cm.
the supporting profile and gypsum board sheet are secured with screws to the guide profile (PN);
the seams are sealed incorrectly: they use the wrong putty, bad reinforcing tape and do not make a covering layer.

If you plan to hang heavy chandeliers, then the pitch of the supporting profile should be 40 centimeters, in other cases - 50 cm.

In the places where the profiles adjoin the walls, we put marks with a pencil, this will make it easier to navigate where the load-bearing profile goes. When fastening the gypsum board there is a risk of missing. And under the guide profile we glue a separating tape; after puttingtying the junction, it ensures the sliding of the gypsum board sheet when the structure moves from the settlement of the building.

Often apartment owners want to have a illuminated ceiling. This can be achieved using multi-level plasterboard structures. The process of creating such structures is similar to creating conventional suspended structures, but requires a more responsible approach at the calculation stage.

Sheathing: sheet installation technology

Let's start the sheathing, using KNAUF sheet with a thickness of 12.5 mm. It is impossible to use material of a different thickness (exceptions are side curved surfaces). To secure the sheets, we use a special lift, which greatly facilitates the work of constructing the ceiling - you can work alone.

Screws must be screwed sequentially from the middle to the edges of the sheet or from the corner to the sides every 15 cm. You cannot fasten the sheet around the perimeter for the purpose of pre-fixing it.

The edge of the plasterboard sheet is NOT secured to the guide profile screwed to the wall.

When cutting a sheet along the edge, be sure to make a bevel of 22.5 degrees.

We space the transverse joints relative to each other.

We prime the edged joints with Tiefengrunt primer.

After the primer has dried, it is necessary to fill the seams and screw holes, then re-prime the surface, and then proceed to putty the entire surface.

Neither gypsum board sheets nor load-bearing profiles are fixed to the guide profile 28/27 (on the wall), i.e. The walls and ceiling should not be tightly connected! GCR with a thickness of 12.5 mm is used. When cutting sheets, a chamfer of 22.5 degrees is made on the edge. The sheets are fixed staggered.

Video

This video will help you properly seal drywall joints:

September 28, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobby: mobile connection, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

Today I will talk about how to make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard. In my opinion, this is one of the pretty simple ways its arrangement. The instructions presented below are understandable even for the most inexperienced novice builders.

Using it, you can do all the work yourself, saving on construction labor costs. And since the price of the material itself is not that high, the cost of the entire project will be quite affordable.

Ceiling installation and necessary materials

Structurally, a plasterboard ceiling is a frame that is attached to the walls and ceiling of the room, and then sheathed with plasterboard, after which it is decorated with decorative materials. The frame can be single-level or multi-level.

If you have not made suspended ceilings from plasterboard with your own hands before, I advise you to go with the first option. This is what we will talk about next.

To construct a single-level frame, you need galvanized ceiling profiles PP (CD) 60 by 27 mm and PPN (UD) 28 by 27 mm. To connect them together, metal screws and single-level connectors (“crabs”) are used.

I will hang the profiles from the ceiling using U-shaped brackets (“pawns”). You can replace them with spring hangers. The brackets and profiles will be attached to the walls with screws and plastic dowels.

I recommend using plasterboard 9.5 mm thick, 1200 mm wide and 2500 mm long. If you are going to sheathe a room with increased level humidity (bathroom, toilet), you need to buy moisture-resistant green plasterboard. In all other cases, standard brown (grayish) will do.

If you follow the tips listed above, you will achieve the optimal combination of strength characteristics and weight. Normal value – 13 kg per 1 square meter ceiling.

As for tools, you will need:

perforator for making holes in the floor slab and enclosing walls;
screwdriver for tightening screws;
metal scissors for cutting profiles;
laser or water level for marking;
tools for puttying drywall.

The process of installing gypsum boards on the ceiling consists of only three stages:

Beginning of work

So, before you make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands, you need to properly prepare the ceiling and develop a project for the future structure.

Surface preparation

I want to say right away that the suspended ceiling perfectly hides all the defects of the floor slab. Therefore, the preparation work will not be extensive. Their main task is to ensure reliable fastening of the frame to the floor slab and walls.

To do this I usually do the following:

I am dismantling the old finish. You need to strip off the old wallpaper or paint down to the layer of putty or plaster. By the way, if the paint on the ceiling does not fall off, but is held very firmly, it is also not necessary to scrape it all off. It is enough to remove damaged areas that may crumble.

I am repairing a floor slab. Before installing gypsum boards, it is necessary to repair defects reinforced concrete slab ceiling coverings. To do this, use repair cement mortar or polyurethane polyurethane foam Large gaps and cracks need to be sealed.

If you find areas with exposed reinforcement, then before sealing you need to clean the metal from rust, coat it with a rust converter, and after the latter has dried, seal the cracks.

Ground surface. This operation allows you to remove dust from the ceiling slab. If you are going to make a ceiling in a room with high humidity, it is better to take a primer with antiseptic properties, designed for working on a mineral base.

I install engineering communications. Before installing the ceiling, you need to take care of installing engineering systems. Usually we are talking about ventilation ducts And electrical cables. I recommend making the first ones from plastic pipes. And the wires should be placed in protective corrugations, which will protect them from fire in the event of a short circuit.

There is no need to bring the ceiling to perfection and level it strictly according to level. After all, this will be done using a frame and plasterboard sheets.

Project development

Now let's get down to creating a project for the future ceiling. Again, if you are going to design a complex multi-level ceiling, I recommend using specialized computer applications for this. They will also calculate the amount of materials needed.

In the case I am describing, the ceiling will be single-level, without complex zigzags and steps. Therefore, you can calculate it yourself. I'll bring you approximate diagram calculations for a room measuring 3 by 6 meters:

First you need to determine the perimeter of the room - ours will be 3+3+6+6=18 meters. This is exactly how much UD ceiling guide profile is needed. Naturally, take with a small reserve, in case something goes bad. In addition, they will need to be nested within each other, which also needs to be taken into account.
When measuring a room, measure all walls. There are times when opposite walls are not equal to each other. Then take a higher value.
Next you need to calculate the number of load-bearing ceiling profile CD. In my case, it will be mounted at a distance of 50 cm from each other across the room. Accordingly, 600 / 50 cm = 12 pieces. This is for the case when the gypsum board will be attached along the room. The length of the sheet is 2500 mm, that is, its edges will fall directly on the supporting parts.
If you lay gypsum board sheets across the room, the distance between the supporting profiles should be 60 cm (since the sheet width is 120 cm). Then 600 / 60 = 10 pieces.
At the next stage, the number of U-shaped suspensions is calculated. They are attached to the supporting profile at a distance of 60 cm. The length of the profile in our case is 3 meters. That is, 300 / 60 = 5 suspensions. We have 12 profiles. That means 12 * 5 = 60 hangers.
Remember that the first and last hangers need to be mounted at a distance of 30 cm from the wall, and the rest - at a distance of 60 cm from each other.
You also need to calculate the number of crabs. You will need 24 of them, that is, twice as many as CD carrier profiles.

The number of screws and dowels can also be counted, but I do not advise you to stop there. Buy a box of self-tapping screws for fastening profiles, for screwing drywall, and screws with dowels for mounting the frame on the walls.

Step-by-step guide for installing gypsum boards

Sequencing:

I'm marking up. First you need to arm yourself with a laser or bubble level and mark a line on the enclosing walls of the room that will be located strictly horizontally. In my case, the floor slab has protrusions-ribs, so I drew the line a little lower. You can draw a straight line or mark it with a dotted line as shown in the photo below.

These marks will subsequently serve as a guide for fixing the UD ceiling guide profiles.

Next, I take an ordinary metal drill with a diameter of 7 mm and drill holes in the guide parts, which will later be necessary for installing screws with dowels.

Holes must be drilled in the profile at a distance of 50 cm from each other. The extreme ones should be 10 cm away from the profile cut. I make holes in the profile in advance so that later I do not have to drill the part with a drill with a Pobedit tip (which is intended for concrete walls).

Installing guide profiles on walls. To do this, I attach the profile to the drawings (lines) made on the wall, after which I use a hammer drill to drill holes in the walls through pre-drilled holes. The drill diameter in this case is 6 mm.

After this, I insert a dowel-nail into the hole made in the wall (with the attached profile, of course). He is plastic part with a thickening at the end where a metal core is driven in.

The dowel size is 6 by 50 mm. The dowel is simply driven in with a hammer. If you make any mistake during installation, you can later unscrew it with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

At the corners of the room, the guide profiles are inserted into each other, after which the connection point is strengthened with a small self-tapping screw. If you need to join two elements (if its length is not enough for the entire room), you will simply need to insert two guides into one another. This is where you need to drill through hole and drive another dowel-nail into the wall.

I install load-bearing galvanized profiles. As I already mentioned, in my case the gypsum boards will be laid along the room. Accordingly, the distance between adjacent parts will be 50 cm. You need to take a tape measure and mark the walls, placing marks at a distance of 50 cm from each other.

Then you need to adjust the profiles to the width of the room (if they are narrower). To do this, I recommend measuring the profile of the required length (5 mm less than the distance between the walls), then using scissors to make cuts along the side shelves, and then simply break it off by bending and unbending the part. Then the top ones need to be trimmed a little diagonally, as shown in the photo.

If the width of the room is such that the length of one profile part is not enough, you need to use two products, joining them together with a connector, which can be bought in a store. If you don’t have one at hand, you can make it yourself. The scheme is like this:

I cut a piece 20 cm long from the CD part (a little less is possible);
after that I cut off two short shelves that are located along the sides of the profile;
then this part is bent exactly in the middle along the central groove so that the profile takes on the appearance of the Latin letter W. This is clearly visible in the illustration below.

Then you need to insert the trimmed profiles into the guides. To do this, you need to place one end, then move the part diagonally and insert it into the opposite guide. In this case, the products must be positioned so that their center (visible on the profile) is exactly aligned with the mark on the wall.

If your distance between the last load-bearing plank or the wall of the room is more than 50 cm, you need to divide the remaining distance in half and install an additional profile in this place for strength. But keep in mind that the CD parts must be positioned so that the edges of the gypsum board must be placed on them.

After you have placed all the profiles on the guides according to the markings, they need to be secured with self-tapping screws. I use one screw for each profile on each side. You can tighten the screws using a screwdriver.

I install the transverse elements of the supporting profiles. Here I’ll also start with markup. Considering that I will be placing the sheet of drywall lengthwise, I need to measure a distance of 1200 mm from one of the walls and make corresponding marks on each load-bearing profile. For this, it is better to use a marker, since a pencil does not draw well and is difficult to see on galvanized surfaces. You will get this markup.

To connect two frame elements at the same level, a special part is required, which is popularly called a “crab”. It looks like this. It has special latches, thanks to which it is securely fixed to the CD profile.

These crabs need to be inserted into already installed parts, guided by pre-made marks. To avoid longitudinal sliding of the bracket, it is advisable to secure it to the carrier with a self-tapping screw. For this purpose, the part has the necessary holes. One screw is enough.

Then the crossbars are attached to the crabs. To do this, you need to cut the required number of parts (their length must correspond to the distance between the supporting profiles), and then fix them with two self-tapping screws. The outer crossbars are inserted into the supporting profile mounted on the wall. The result will be the design shown in the photo.

If the width of the room is more than 2.6 meters, you will need as many rows of transverse elements as there will be plasterboard joints. In my case it's two rows. Everything will depend on the perimeter of the room. But the installation principle will remain the same.

It happens that you incorrectly calculated the number of crabs, and there were not enough brackets for installation. Then you can fasten several parts without them. To do this, you need to correctly cut the guide profile:

first you need to measure a profile, the length of which will be 40 mm greater than the distance between the guides;
then the side flanges should be cut so that tongues are formed from the wide edge (their edges should also be cut at a slight angle).

Then this part can simply be screwed onto the CD profile using one self-tapping screw. You need to orientate along the central stiffening rib. In principle, using this advice, you can completely stop using crabs. This will not affect the strength in any way.

I fix the frame on the concrete floor. Without this, the plasterboard structure will not hold securely, since its length is quite large. For fixation, U-shaped perforated hangers are used, which craftsmen call “pawns”.

Suspensions should hold long supporting profiles at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Therefore, you must first make marks on the parts with a marker at the same distance from each other.

Above the marked places you need to make two holes to secure the bracket. To avoid mistakes, you can attach a bracket and then make holes. In the end it will look like this:

To secure the suspensions themselves, you can use dowel nails or anchor bolts. In my case, I use screws that I screw into dry birch tips. This is due to the fact that the thickness of the floor slab in this room is not enough to reliably drive the dowels into it. But this is only a feature of this particular installation.

Then I screw on the hangers. In my case, the distance between the ceiling and the frame is such that I have to use two hangers, placing them on both sides of the supporting profile. But, as a rule, one suspension will do. Then you just need to bend its petals at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the floor slab.

Mounting is done as shown in the photo:

Remember that you first need to secure all the suspensions to the ceiling, without attaching them to the supporting profiles. Before screwing the brackets directly to the frame, the latter must be leveled relative to the horizontal, since now the profiles sag a little under their own weight.

Now I’ll tell you how you can easily align this entire structure:

First, you should raise the entire frame in the center so that it is obviously higher than the required level, and secure it in this state to the hangers using self-tapping screws in two or three places. This will be a temporary mount that will be removed later.
Then you need to secure the cord. A screw with a string attached to it is screwed into the guide at one wall, then it is pulled across the entire room and screwed to the screw on the opposite guide profile. If you raised the ceiling (as described in the previous paragraph), then a small gap will form between the rope and the frame.

If you do not want to raise the ceiling, you can fasten the thread from the top of the guide profile. Then the ceiling will sag and a gap will still form, which is necessary for leveling.
After all the threads are tensioned, you can align the profile with a reference point and secure it to the hangers. Be sure to leave a gap of about 1 mm so that the already aligned parts do not disturb the plane formed by the stretched ropes.

This process of leveling the surface takes up most of the time required to install the ceiling. But it must be done carefully and without haste, otherwise you will end up with a crooked surface.

One more thing. If after fastening you still have protruding parts of the brackets, you just need to bend them back. No need to cut.

I am insulating the ceiling surface. You can also omit this step if insulation of the ceiling is not required. But in my case, the floor slab is too thin and requires thermal insulation. In addition, the material used will act as a soundproofing layer.

As thermal insulation, I will use foil penofol 4 mm thick. An additional reflective heat shield will be effective enough to thermal energy was not wasted through the ceiling.

The difficulty in my case is fixing the penofol, since I will not attach it to the profile with a stapler or screws. The solution for me was shoe glue.

By the way, you can replace it with liquid nails. Well and one more Alternative option– use double-sided tape.

I coated the bottom surface of the profiles with glue, and then those areas of penofol that will be glued. After this, I installed the insulation. Remember that you need to glue it so that the foil side is located towards the living room. All this is clearly visible in the photo.

I attach the sheets of drywall to the profile. It is better to do this with a partner who will hold the sheets while securing. But I’ll tell you further how you can still get by only on your own.

In this case, to work you will need two supports shaped like the letters T (or mops). Their length should be such that in a vertical position it practically rests on the surface of the ceiling frame (even without taking into account the thickness of the plasterboard). A support of the simplest design is shown in the photo.

I'll tell you how to use this mop:

First you need to install the mop against the wall so that there is a gap between it and the ceiling, where you can place a plasterboard sheet of thickness.
Then you need to take a sheet of drywall and lean it on this support.
After this, you should grab the sheet by the opposite (bottom) edge and lift it to the ceiling. In this case, the opposite edge should touch the wall tightly and be fixed between the frame and the short part of the mop.
Having lifted it from the floor, you need to slip a second mop under the bottom and bring the sheet to the level of the previously made frame.
As a result, the plasterboard sheet will be pressed against the ceiling in the manner shown in the photograph.

Then you can take a stepladder and fix the sheet to the frame using drywall screws. They need to be screwed along the edge of the sheet and into those areas where profiles pass under the sheet. The distance between adjacent screws should be 30-40 cm.

When screwing in the self-tapping screw, be sure to hold the gypsum board with your hand. Because when screwing a self-tapping screw into a profile, the sheet may move slightly away from the surface. There is a danger that it will fall from your supports.

The screw head after screwing should not rise above the level of the sheet. It needs to be sunk a little deeper, but not completely destroy the sheet of cardboard that protects the plaster from destruction.

Installation of all other sheets is carried out in the same way.

I am finishing the ceiling. To do this, it is necessary to putty the places where the screw heads are visible, as well as the joints of the plasterboard sheets (usually fiberglass mesh– serpyanka).

And the further design depends on you. The most common option is puttying and subsequent painting.

Summary

I hope the information presented is enough so that, based on it, you can construct a plasterboard ceiling yourself. For more tips, see the video in this article.

You can leave your opinion on the information presented in the comments.