Rose hip - perennial shrub, a genus of plants in the Rosaceae family. Its second name is “ wild Rose" Rosehip not only has beautiful flowers, but is also a storehouse of vitamins. On summer cottage it rightfully holds the record for vitamin C content, ahead of apples and currants. When planting shrubs, you need to take into account the composition of the soil, as well as the lack of groundwater, since their stagnation can lead to rotting of the roots. Caring for rose hips mainly consists of watering, pruning and feeding the plant. Reproduction is carried out by root suckers, seedlings, and also by growing from seeds. About 100 varieties of rose hips grow on the territory of the Russian Federation.
Varieties
When choosing rose hips for planting in your summer cottage, it is best to give preference to varieties with a high content of vitamins.
Rugosa rose (R. rugosa). One of the most popular species among gardeners. Its height reaches one and a half meters. It has a huge number of shoots, which facilitates the reproduction process. The species is frost-resistant and is not afraid of soils rich in salts. It can grow in poor soils and windy areas. The homeland of the wrinkled rose is the Far East.
Rosehip May, also known as Sh. cinnamon (R. cinnamomea L., R.maialis Herrm). IN wildlife grows independently in the European part of Russia, right up to Siberia. The height of this plant varies around 2 m. It is distinguished by sparse thorns, and on shoots with flowers there are none at all. The species blooms in May. 
Rosehip May
Rosehip (R. acicularisLindley). A winter-hardy variety that can withstand severe frosts (up to -40 degrees). The height of the bush varies from 1 to 3 m. The fruits of the needle rose are distinguished by a high content of vitamin C, and their size reaches 1.5 cm.
Webb's rose (R. webbiana Wall. ex Royle). A perennial plant whose height reaches 1 m. It has sparse, slightly curved thorns. The flowers are red or pink, sometimes white. It grows mainly on the slopes of mountain ranges (in the Himalayas, Pamirs, Tibet and Mongolia).
Dog rose (R. canina)– a type of plant with a low content of ascorbic acid. His distinguishing feature– absence of a hole on the top of the head and rapidly falling leaves.
Advice. Rose hips can be easily tested for vitamin content. It is believed that the vitamin species of the plant can whistle. If you blow into the hole at the top of the fruit, you will hear a small whistle.
Among the selection varieties there are:
"Vitamin VNIVI"– early middle grade. Requires pollination. Therefore, you will need to plant another bush, but of a different variety. It has massive fruits and a considerable amount of vitamins. The yield of the variety is about 2.5 kg per plant. There are no thorns in the fruiting areas, which facilitates the process of collecting fruits.
"Vorontsovsky 1"- a hybrid of two roses: wrinkled and Webb. In addition to vitamins C and bioflavonoids, it is high in folic acid. The yield of this variety is slightly higher than that of the previous one and is about 3 kg.
"Large-fruited VNIVI"– winter-hardy, high-yielding and resistant to diseases and pests. Characterized by long-lasting flowering. Rose hips are usually used to make jam, jam and other preparations. 
Rosehip large-fruited VNIVI
"Russian 1" – vitamin grade. Grown mainly in the Ural region. Productivity is from 1.5 to 2 kg. Rust resistant.
"Globe" – winter-hardy variety, high, contains many vitamins.
"Finger"– winter-hardy and pest-resistant variety. Grown in the West Siberian region.
"Victory". Not much different from the previous variety. In addition to the above characteristics, it has a pleasant aroma.
"Titanium"– a tall shrub with fruits growing in 3–5 pieces. Productivity is very high, resistant to diseases and pests.
"Apple"- a low shrub that has large fruits with a sweet and sour taste.
"Sergievsky"– a variety with an average ripening period. The fruits are sweet and sour with a high content of vitamin C.
"Ural Champion" A very winter-hardy variety that is suitable for cultivation in all regions of the country.
Planting and care
Rosehip – quite unpretentious shrub. It is planted to produce fruits that contain large amounts of vitamins. In particular, vitamin C. In addition, the plant emits an incredible aroma during the flowering period.
Rose hips are planted in the fall. The place should be bright. But even in a shaded area it will grow well. But if you want to get a good rose hip harvest, it is better to choose an area well lit by the sun.
Planting procedure: step-by-step instructions
1.Dig a hole of length, width and height, which should be about half a meter.
2. At the bottom of the dug hole there should be a small mound of soil.
3. Carefully spread out the roots and cover them with soil.
4. Water the planted plant.
5. Shelter for the winter period is not required.
Advice. Planting can be done in the spring, but it is better to do it before buds form. This is done so that the rose hips can more easily endure planting.
Another planting rule is maintaining the distance between bushes. It must be at least 120 cm.
Rosehip care involves watering, pruning and fertilizing. In the first year of life, especially during drought, the plant needs periodic watering. Mature shrubs are watered infrequently, but abundantly. Watering is required during the period when the ovaries appear, provided there is no rain. A young bush requires up to 30 liters of water, and a fruit-bearing bush requires even more – about 50 liters.
If the rosehip bush is trimmed, it will become a worthy element of landscape design
Rose hips are often used as a hedge. To ensure that the plant does not lose its decorative properties, it should be trimmed periodically. Pruning is done in the fall or in early spring before the buds appear. You can also prune at the end of winter, when all the dried and dead branches are visible.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing requires special consideration. Root feeding is done about four times during the year: before and after flowering, at the beginning of fruit ripening and after harvesting.
For the first feeding, organic fertilizer is required, which is diluted at the rate of 3 tbsp. l per bucket of water.
The second feeding consists of half a glass of Agricola per bucket of water. Sometimes organic fertilizer is added.
The third feeding consists of using only Agricola.
For the last feeding, take a bucket of water and 2 tbsp. l "Agricolaaqua" products. This solution is used to treat rosehip bushes after flowering has ended three times every 10 days.
Wild rose propagation
Rosehip propagation is carried out in several well-known ways.
Growing from seeds. Seeds are collected for planting in August, when the fruits are not yet fully ripe.
1. The fruits are collected.
2.The seeds are removed and washed.
3. Sowing is carried out in September, deepening the seeds by 2 cm. The distance between the seeds should be at least 5 cm. 
Rosehip seeds
By green cuttings. Convenient way with a high percentage of rooting.
1. Cuttings are cut with an oblique cut.
2.Dip into root growth activator.
3.Transplanted into pots.
4. Cover with film and water moderately as the soil dries.
5. Planted in open ground.
Reproduction by root suckers. The method is used to preserve the properties of the mother bush. Infrequently used.
Dividing the bush. A shrub about 6 years old is dug up and the rhizome is divided into several parts. Small shrubs are immediately planted in the ground, without waiting for the roots to dry.
Diseases and pests
"Wild Rose" is susceptible to diseases and pest attacks. These include rust, powdery mildew, gray and brown rot, and damage is caused by rose flies, leaf rollers, spider mites and sawflies.
Using garlic infusion with laundry soap. The shrub should be sprayed with this mixture before flowering and after harvesting the fruits. Topaz will help with rust, and Bordeaux mixture will help with black spotting. 
Treat the bushes against pests several times a season.
Rosehip is a high-vitamin plant and perennial. Often used in landscape design as a hedge. Planting and caring for it is not burdensome. Feeding plays a special role. They are held four times a year. Rose hips are used to make tea, decoction, preserves and jam. The shrub contains large amounts of vitamin C and is an excellent remedy for the prevention and treatment of colds.
Growing rose hips: video
The high medicinal value of the fruits, their suitability for processing at home, decorative properties, ease of propagation and cultivation - these advantages of the plant deserve that it find its place on every garden plot.
What's useful
Rose hips are a natural multivitamin concentrate, due to the high content of ascorbic acid, carotenoids and P-active compounds. Of the wide variety of plants growing in our country, rosehip ranks first in terms of vitamin C content. The vitamin C content in its fruits is 10 times more than in black currants and 100 times more than in apples. 1-3 fruits can provide the daily requirement of an adult for vitamin C. The value of fruits increases due to the significant content of vitamin P in them. medicinal properties rosehip was known already in ancient times. In Russia, rose hips became known around the time of Ivan the Terrible. Its fruits were called sworobrin, they were considered extremely effective means and were issued with special permission only to representatives of the nobility. Rosehip is highly valued in modern medicine, it is considered the main raw material for the vitamin industry.
The fruits, rich in iron and vitamins, are prescribed for dietary nutrition and the treatment of anemia. Used for the treatment and prevention of diseases associated with impaired capillary circulation. Eating fruits slows down the development of atherosclerosis, increases the body’s resistance to certain infectious diseases, intoxications, restores performance in case of mental and physical fatigue. Rosehip roots are used to treat dysentery, they are used as an anthelmintic, for cholelithiasis and urolithiasis, heart disease, malaria and hypertension. Both branches and flowers are used for medicinal purposes. The medicinal drug “Holosas” is prepared from the fruits, which is used to treat cholecystitis, hepatitis and other liver diseases. The drug “Karotolin” is also known, which cures trophic ulcers, eczema, and atrophic changes in the mucous membranes. Rosehip oil, obtained from its seeds, is used to treat trophic ulcers, dermatosis, bedsores, burns and radioactive skin lesions. Water infusions of rose hips are popular among the population.
Varieties - make the right choice
Breeders are working to develop rosehip varieties with large, vitamin-rich fruits and thornless branches. At the same time, pay attention to the fact that the fruits have few seeds or that they are combined into a lump that is not destroyed when the pulp is separated; this is convenient for obtaining clean pulp without felt. Using interspecific crosses and selection from wild species, rose hip varieties have already been created: Krupnoplodny VNIVI, Vitamin VNIVI, Vorontsovsky-1, Rubin, Besshipny VNIVI, Ural Champion, Rumyany, Bagryany, Yubileiny, Palchik, Pobeda, Rossiysky-1, Rukh, Shpil, Globe, Bakal, Apple, Titan, Taras, Tikhon, Luch.
The degree of vitamin content of rose hip species and varieties is determined by the sepals on the fruit. In high-vitamin fruits, they are lowered down and pressed against the walls of the fruit.
The secret to success is to create close company
Rose hips are propagated by seeds, root suckers, layering, green and root cuttings, dividing the bush, and grafting. When propagating from seeds, it is not possible to obtain homogeneous offspring; not all useful characteristics of the mother plant are transmitted to the seedlings. Conservation varietal characteristics mother plant promotes vegetative propagation rosehip.
Rosehip plants require cross-pollination, so several varieties, types or forms should be planted. In this case, it is advisable to include both large-fruited and small-fruited plants in this set. If the fruits of the first varieties (Large-fruited VNIVI, Thornless VNIVI, wrinkled rose hips and others) will be used for processing, then the second, more vitamin-rich Vorontsovsky-1, Rossiysky-2, Vitamin VNIVI and others) will be used for drying and subsequent use as medicinal infusions and decoctions. , vitamin teas.
How to prepare for future use
Rose hips do not ripen at the same time, so they are collected in several stages - from the 2nd half of August until frost. The vitamin C content in fruits is maximum when they ripen, when they acquire the color typical of the variety or species. The collection of small-fruited varieties must be completed before frost, since fruits exposed to frost reduce the vitamin C content by 10-15 times. Fruits of large-fruited varieties and the wrinkled rosehip type are removed slightly unripe when used for jam. When storing freshly picked fruits for a long time, you can lose a lot of vitamins. In order to better preserve the vitamins accumulated in the fruits, they are dried at a temperature of 80-90 ° C (in electric ovens, dryers or a Russian oven). Do not dry in the sun, as this will significantly reduce the vitamin content. Store dry fruits at a temperature close to 0°C, in a well-ventilated dry room. Storage duration is no more than 2 years.
Juice and vitamin syrup are obtained from fresh rose hips. Fresh, pickled and dried fruits are widely consumed.
Compared to all plants, rosehip stands out for its particularly high content of ascorbic acid, P-active substances and carotenoids. Small-fruited types of rose hips are a storehouse of vitamin C. All these vitamins and substances useful for humans are contained in rose hips, and vitamin C is also present in the leaves. Carotene gives the pulp of rose hips its characteristic Orange color. In addition, rose hips are a source of B vitamins (B1, B2, B9), E, PP, K. Rose hips contain phosphorus and potassium, and also contain microelements: iron, iodine, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, etc.
Rosehip in a summer cottage
Growing rose hips in your summer cottage means providing yourself with a supply of these valuable multivitamin fruits, which, undoubtedly, can be considered a very successful idea; the only question that arises is how to plant rose hips correctly and then grow. “j”>Rose hips tolerate drought well and adapt well to poor soils, although, of course, on fertile loamy soil, floodplain soils, and sandy loam soils, harvests are much better, especially with good moisture. Rose hips will not take root in heavily moist or excessively dry sandy soil, and it is unlikely that rose hips will grow in carbonate, over-limed soils.
Rose hips can be bred different ways- by seeds, dividing bushes, using layering and root suckers, cuttings, and finally, grafting.
Proper organization of rosehip planting
The most reasonable thing to do is to plant two groups of rosehip varieties on the site: several small-fruited plants and approximately the same number of large-fruited rosehip bushes. Small-fruited rose hips are good for drying, making vitamin tea, healthy infusions, and decoctions. Fresh large rose hips are eaten, they are used to make jam, compotes, and processed in other ways. In addition, large-fruited rose hips are often added to various dishes to enrich them with vitamins.
It is important to know that in a group of rose hips of the same variety, most plants do not form an ovary if they are pollinated by pollen from a rose hip of the same variety. They need pollen from a different variety of rose hips to fall on them, so it is necessary to have another planting of rose hips nearby, but of a different type or variety. Thus, for successful cultivation of rose hips, the site must be planted with at least two bushes of different varieties, or of the same variety, but grown from seeds.
Tilling the soil before planting
You can fertilize with compost (manure) at the rate of 6-8 kg per 1 m2. Organic fertilizers it must be added to the soil in advance, preferably 20-30 days before planting if it happens in the fall. For spring planting Fertilizers should be applied in October during the final tillage and embedded into the soil to a depth of 20-30 cm.
Experienced gardeners plant rose hips along the border of the site, forming one row of it, either in the form of a clump on the lawn or in a flower garden, leaving 1.5 -2 meters between plants. Optimal material for planting - these are one or two year old seedlings with a branched root system. A seedling needs a hole with sides and a depth of 30 cm. The size of the hole depends on whether fertilizers were applied beforehand; if the soil was not fertilized, then it is better to expand the hole to a width of 50-80 cm and make it deeper (40-50 cm). In these holes, having planted rose hips in them, they fill them with soil taken from the humus horizon and up to 10 kg of well-decomposed compost or half-rotted manure. Also add 100-200 g of superphosphate and potassium salt in an amount of 30-50 g. Then the plant must be well watered (pour out at least 8 liters), mulch the soil on the surface of the hole with peat crumbs or humus, applying a layer of 3-5 cm. For the planted seedling The above-ground part of the rose hips is trimmed, leaving branches that rise 5-10 cm above the soil. For good growth Rose hips, the soil around the planting should be kept loose, weeds should be removed in time, watered abundantly during dry periods, then loosened and mulched.
Formation of a rose hip bush
Usually, 10-12 branches of different ages are left in a rosehip bush, although in small-fruited varieties this number can reach 18-20, including basal shoots and shoots from the root in the bush.
In the second year, 4-6 strong basal shoots are left in the small-fruited variety, all weak, broken, diseased branches are removed. Those shoots that remain are pruned to a height of 60 cm, stimulating them to actively branch in the summer months. In the third year, in the spring, weak branches are removed again, leaving 4-6 strong branches from the root; first-order shoots from two-year-old branches are cut into 3-4 buds, from which fruitful shoots will grow in the summer. Over the next couple of years, they continue to act in the manner already described. New root shoots expand the bush in diameter to 30-50 cm.
As a rule, at a certain age (for large-fruited rose hips in the fourth or fifth year, and for small-fruited ones in the sixth or seventh year), the number of emerging shoots decreases, the buds become smaller, the fruits themselves become smaller, and their yield is significantly reduced.
Such old branches need to be cut off at the root, replacing them with the same number of strong basal shoots or root shoots.
Harvesting and drying fruits
A rosehip bush lives on average approx. 20-25 years, and usually no more than 10-12 years in one place. The maximum content of vitamin C is observed in ripe fruits of red or orange-red color. At this moment they need to be collected. Rose hips of large-fruited varieties and those intended for jam are removed unripe. Varieties that are valued for their high concentration of vitamin C must be harvested before the first frost, which can significantly reduce the vitamin content in the fruit.
The rose hip is not only a wonderful bush covered with flowers, it is a bush with a complex character - thorns. But the one who manages to cope with him will receive an inexhaustible source the most useful fruits and a living, beautiful, almost impenetrable hedge.
The garden rose is a close relative of the rose hip. But let's return to rosehips; they contain more vitamin C than apples and even lemons. Whichever way you look at it, it’s completely beneficial.
Landing
Rosehip loves the sun; in sunny, elevated areas with fertile soil it develops well and bears fruit. Does not tolerate stagnation groundwater. It puts its roots deep into the soil and if it gets into a low-lying, swampy place, it will not live long - it will wither away. The root system of rose hips grows like the root system of raspberries: after several years of life, its roots begin to grow in the upper layer of soil and gradually occupy a fairly large area. To prevent the uncontrolled growth of its roots, it is recommended to dig in pieces of plastic or slate 20-30 centimeters deep, or, as a last resort, dig a ditch of the same depth.
Now let's water and mulch
It is useful to plant rose hips on the border of a plot or in bushes in places that are inconvenient for other plants: near an outbuilding or near a compost container (heap). Remember that rose hips cross-pollinate, so plant the bushes at least in pairs, especially if you are interested in its fruits.
Reproduction
Rose hips can be successfully propagated by seedlings, seeds, and root cuttings.
For propagation by seeds, rose hips are best collected in August. You need to choose unripe brown fruits; in such fruits the seed shell has not yet hardened, they will germinate better. Seeds can be planted both in autumn and spring. Autumn sowing preferable.
We carry out autumn planting in October, sow the seeds in rows and sprinkle them with sawdust and humus, leaving the distance between the rows so that a cultivator, flat cutter or hoe can pass through. In early spring, for better seed germination, we build a cold mini-greenhouse: a frame with a fixed plastic film. When the seeds germinate and the seedlings throw out two leaves, they can be transplanted to permanent places.
Spring planting of seeds will require their stratification. The procedure is approximately this: prepare the substrate (peat with sand 1:4), remove the seeds from the fruits, mix them with the substrate and put them in a box. We leave the box in a cold room until spring, the temperature should be about 2-3°C. It is recommended to stir the mixture several times in winter.
Propagation by seedlings is most productive in the fall; during this period they take root better. The best time for planting is from October to November. A hole 20-22 centimeters deep will be enough. It is advisable to treat acidic soil with lime; rotted manure and compost will not be amiss. Before planting, we radically prune the seedlings, leaving a small part of them, 8-10 centimeters. To improve survival rate, you can make several root cuts, shortening the roots to 15-20 centimeters. After this, we immerse the roots of the seedling in a clay mash and lower it into the hole. Straightening the roots and placing the neck of the rhizome 5-8 centimeters below the ground surface. Afterwards, water well and mulch the soil.
Reproduction by root shoots (offshoots) is carried out when they want to preserve the properties of the mother plant, for example, high yield. The best period for harvesting is late autumn or early spring. There are two common methods. In the first case, no matter in autumn or winter, we select a shoot 25-40 centimeters in height and use a shovel to separate it from the mother plant. The second method involves regular watering and hilling of the bush. The bush begins to form adventitious roots. in autumn next year, the bush is separated from the mother plant, but not dug up. And when spring comes, the seedling is dug up and, without trying not to damage the roots, transplanted to permanent place.
When choosing the interval between plants, you need to know what is our priority. If this happens hedge, then we plant the seedlings together, after 0.5 m. If we need good harvests, more space needs to be allocated to the bush.
Care
Trimming
Two or three years after planting, the rosehip bush needs to be thinned out. To ensure high yields, leave 15 to 20 branches per bush. We try to ensure that the branches are of different ages. We remove those that are more than seven years old; they will bear fruit poorly. It is best to prune in the spring, although some gardeners recommend doing it in the fall, after the leaves have fallen. But I do not recommend doing this, fresh cuts will not tolerate frost well, the bush will weaken, so spring is preferable. Beware of turning bush pruning into shortening or trimming it, this will bring you a mass of young growth that will not yield a harvest.
Watering
Rose hips are a drought-resistant plant and can do without constant watering. If the summer is very hot and the dry period is prolonged, then 2-3 buckets of water for a young bush and 5-6 for a fruit-bearing one will be very useful. This procedure is performed no more than 3-4 times during the entire season.
Top dressing
Young bushes require feeding. In order for the bush to develop normally, usually from the second year, the plant is fed nitrogen fertilizers. The first feeding occurs in early spring, the second during the period of rapid growth of shoots (June-July), and the third in September.
Throughout the further life of the bush, once every three years we add at least three kilograms of humus or compost under the bush. After each feeding, water the soil around the bush, loosen it, and mulch it.
Harvest
Harvesting begins when the fruits turn red or orange-red, around August to October. As a rule, rose hips do not ripen at the same time, so you should not collect them all at once: some are underripe, some are overripe. It is better to collect fruits in several stages as they ripen. But don’t wait until it’s frosty – you’ll lose a lot of vitamins. Take care of protective equipment, you haven’t forgotten, rosehip is a plant with character.
Varieties and types
In modern gardening there are more than 250 types of rose hips, including high-yielding and decorative ones.
Variety Cinnamon (Rosa cinnamomea) also known as May (Rosa majalis)
The bark of the bush is red-brown, which is why it got one of its names. The bush grows up to 2 meters in height and can bear up to two kilograms of fruit. It has a complex imparipinnate leaf with 5-7 pairs of leaves, quite long, 5-6 centimeters each. The upper part has solid, slightly curved spines. It blooms depending on the area of growth, from May to July.
Fruit ripening occurs from August to September. The fruit has a fleshy wall and a sweet and sour taste.
Common name: May rose, wild rose.
Rosehip Wrinkled
This variety is quite common and has been cultivated by gardeners for a long time. It stands out among others for its long flowering period throughout spring and summer. Very productive, up to four kilograms of useful fruits can be collected from one bush. Frost-resistant, not susceptible to disease, but very densely covered with thorns.
Rosehip Spiny
The flowers are red or pink. The bush is up to 2 meters high, generously strewn with thorns. It tolerates both frost and drought well, so it has taken root in Siberia and Central Asia.
The popular name shipshina was revered among the Slavic peoples as a symbol of beauty, love and youth and at the same time symbolized strong male character. The variety was official in former USSR and was included in various pharmacy teas and infusions.
Needle rose hips
IN Ancient Greece Near the temple of Aphrodite, entire gardens grew of this variety.
Rosehip Terry (white rosehip)
Decorative appearance with beautiful double dense white flowers. Mentioned in literature, for example in the rock opera “Juno and Avos”.
Rosehip Gray
Rosehip with pale flowers Pink colour and in the shape of a star. The diameter of the flower is 3-3.5 centimeters. Fruits abundantly with bright red decorative fruits that are inedible. The shoots have a dark beet color.
The gray rosehip bush is elegant and attractive
Rosehip "Large-fruited VNIVI"
A large-fruited variety of rose hips, its fruits weigh 11-13 grams. The bush is characteristic rapid growth branches, very attractive during flowering, flowers are pale pink. And thorns, a large number.
Large-fruited VNIVI has the largest fruits
There are also such varieties as Rosa Webb, Vorontsovsky - 3, Yubileiny, Rosa Daurskaya, Late-ripening. All these varieties look very attractive during the flowering period, their fruits are edible and suitable for vitamin compotes and jam.
All ready to plant rose hips!
Rosehip – protector and healer | Near the househttp://site/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/ш-1-1024x768.jpghttp://site/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/ш-1-150x150.jpg 2019-01-04T20:14:04+00:00 Near the house Articles white, growing, breeding, gray, rosehipThe rose hip is not only a wonderful bush covered with flowers, it is a bush with a complex character - thorns. But those who manage to cope with it will receive an inexhaustible source of useful fruits and a living, beautiful, almost impenetrable hedge. Rosehip is a protector and healer. The garden rose is a close relative of the rosehip. But let's return to rose hips, they contain...Near the house [email protected] Administrator Near the HouseThere is hardly a person who has never seen a rose hip. This plant is widely used in landscape design; it is also popular among amateur gardeners. But abundantly flowering shrubs can not only decorate the garden, but also bring a harvest of extremely healthy fruits. There is nothing complicated in cultivating rose hips; even a novice gardener can grow it.
Description of the plant
Rosehip is a large genus of deciduous plants from the Rosaceae family. Most of them are shrubs; lianas, herbaceous and tree plants.They all have one thing in common - the shoots are densely strewn with sharp thorns of varying lengths. They are even present on annual branches, but there they look more like bristles.
The rose hip owes its name to the presence of many densely arranged spines dotting the shoots
In the northern hemisphere, rose hips are found everywhere. He is equally happy with temperate and subtropical climates. It grows almost like a weed, successfully adapting even to unfavorable environmental conditions in cities. In central Russia, cinnamon rosehip is especially common. Among its “relatives” it stands out for the highest content of vitamin C in its fruits.
Rose hips are widespread in nature; they grow mainly where the soil is moist and fertile, forming entire clumps and almost impenetrable thickets.
Leaves of rose hips dark green(there is a gray-gray, olive or reddish tint), complex shape(opipinnate), not too large (5–8 cm in length). The reverse side is most often pubescent. The edge is cut with small teeth.
Depending on the variety, rosehip leaves may have a bluish or reddish tint.
The average height of an adult plant is 1.5–2.5 m. The shoots are quite thin, almost twigs. At the same time, it is quite difficult to break them. The bark is reddish-brown, smooth, shiny, sometimes with a greenish or purple tint. The root system is powerful and developed. Tap roots go 2.5–3 m into the ground, adventitious roots reach a length of 25–40 cm.
The plant forms very abundant basal shoots, due to which it quickly grows in breadth.
Rosehip is widely used in landscape design
Rosehip blooms in June or early July and lasts 10–20 days. The flowers look very impressive and spread an amazing aroma. In wild rosehip varieties they are most often simple, five-petaled. The buds are single or collected in 2-4 pieces in inflorescences in the form of a shield or panicle. Breeders have also bred terry varieties of rose hips. The color of the petals is very different - from snow-white to dark purple, almost black. Various shades of pink are common in nature, from delicate pastel to bright crimson. The average diameter of a flower is 4–5 cm. They open daily from 4:00 to 5:00 hours, and “fall asleep” from 19:00 to 20:00.
Blooming rose hips decorate the area and spread an amazing aroma
Rose hips ripen towards the end of summer or in the first half of September. If they are not collected on time, they will remain on the plant until the first frost. These are almost spherical, sometimes elongated or flattened berries of various shades of red and orange. Botanists know them as hypanthium, which is formed during the growth of the receptacle. The average diameter is 10–15 mm. You can count on the first harvest 3–4 years after planting the seedling in the ground. The productive life of the bush is at least 25–30 years.
Rosehip is a non-self-pollinating plant. Its pollen is carried by bees and other insects. Therefore, if it is planted with the expectation of a future harvest, and not to decorate the site, it is advisable to have several varieties.
Rose hips look no less decorative than its flowers
Rose hips contain a record high content of vitamin C, which has a positive effect on the immune system, the body’s overall resistance to disease, reduces fatigue, increases performance (both mental and physical), stimulates tissue regeneration and blood cell renewal. Rosehip seed oil helps with wound healing and any skin diseases.
Contraindication to the use of rosehip is pathology of blood vessels (varicose veins, thrombophlebitis). After drinking rosehip decoction, be sure to rinse your mouth - otherwise it can cause dental problems.
Rose hips contain large amounts of vitamin C
Varieties popular among gardeners
Rose hip selection goes in two directions. Produced as large-fruited high-yielding varieties with a high content of vitamin C and microelements, as well as decorative hybrids with unusual petal colors and double flowers.
Of those varieties that are planted for harvest, the most popular among Russian gardeners are the following:
- Vitamin VNIVI. The bush is spreading, the shoots are erect. There are practically no thorns on fruiting shoots. The berries are almost spherical, weigh on average 3.5–4 g, and form clusters similar to clusters of grapes or red currants. They are characterized by a high content of vitamin C (4000 mg per 100 g) and carotenoids. The pulp has a pleasant sweet and sour taste. The average yield is 2.5–3 kg per adult plant. The variety is frost-resistant down to -35ºС, therefore, suitable for cultivation in the Urals, Siberia, and the Far East. It is also characterized by good immunity to diseases typical of the culture. The presence of pollinating varieties is mandatory;
- Large-fruited VNIVI. The bush is powerful, spreading, and differs in its growth rate. The average height is about 2 m. On young shoots the bark is greenish; with age it changes color to grayish-brown. The leaves are dark green, the surface is slightly wrinkled. Flowering begins in June and lasts until the first frost. At the same time, the fruits ripen. The flowers are large, the petals are pale pink. The fruits are slightly flattened, the skin is glossy, reddish-orange. Average weight is about 8 g, yield is 3–4.5 kg per bush. A significant drawback is the relatively low content of vitamin C in the pulp compared to other varieties. Frost resistance at -25ºС;
- Scarlet. The bush is 1.5–2 m high and has approximately the same diameter. The growth rate is no different. The thorns are quite short and sparse, concentrated at the base of the shoots. The unusual pear-shaped fruits are located on long stalks. The skin is shiny, bright scarlet in color. The taste of the pulp is pleasant, sweet and sour. The harvest ripens in the last ten days of August. The variety is valued for its high frost resistance and genetically built-in immunity to powdery mildew, but often suffers from black spotting;
- Globe. The height of the bush is up to 1.5 m, the shoots are quite thick and arched. The bark is greenish-brown. The thorns at the base of the branches are densely located; at the tops they are practically absent. The leaves are large, light green. The average weight of the almost spherical berry is 3–3.5 g, the stalk is long, and the skin is pale scarlet. The yield is very high - 6–7 kg per bush. It is not particularly frost-resistant, so it is grown in subtropical climates (southern Russia, Ukraine);
- Ray. Tall shrub, grows up to 3–3.5 m. The shoots are thin, the bark is greenish. There are practically no thorns, they are concentrated only at the base of the branches. The flowers are pastel pink, the fruits are bright scarlet. The berries have an interesting elongated shape, similar to a cone. Average weight - 4–4.5 g. The taste is not bad, with a refreshing sourness. The variety is valued for its high yield, cold resistance, and immunity to powdery mildew. It is also most often avoided by typical crop pests;
- Oval. The variety has a medium ripening period and is widely grown on an industrial scale in Russia. The bush is low (up to 1.5 m), compact. The shoots are thin, curved, the bark is matte. The thorns are not located too often, but along the entire length of the branch. The flowers are small, snow-white. The fruits reach a weight of 8–9 g. The skin is thick, the flesh is sweet, almost without sourness. The variety is characterized by very high frost resistance and is extremely rarely affected by diseases and pests;
- Ruby. The leaves and fruits are quite large. The berries are collected in clusters of 3–5 pieces. The skin is orange, becoming dark scarlet or purple as it ripens, the shape varies from almost spherical to elongated, oval. The pulp has a sweet and sour taste. The fruits ripen in the first ten days of August, the yield is low - 1–1.5 kg per adult bush. The variety can withstand frosts down to -30ºС, provided good care rarely suffers from diseases and pests;
- Titanium. Powerful spreading bush reaching 2 m in height. Flowering occurs in mid-July. The leaves are almost invisible behind the pale pink petals. The berries are collected in clusters of 3–5 pieces and are stored dry for a very long time. Frost resistance - up to -20ºС;
- Anniversary. The bush is powerful, but low (up to 1.5 m). The flowers are large, bright pink, flowering is very abundant. The fruits are shaped like bulbs. The average weight of the berry is 4–5 g. The skin is shiny, red-orange. The pulp is sweet and sour. The fruits are great for drying; they are also used to make jam;
- Apple. The height of the bush does not exceed 1–1.2 m, but this does not affect the yield in any way. It is comparable to that of tall varieties (4–5 kg). The flowers are large, the petals are dark scarlet. The fruits are painted in a rich bright red color, collected in clusters of 5–7 pieces. They are slightly flattened in shape. The pulp has a pronounced sweet and sour taste. The average weight of the berry is 10–12 g;
- Vorontsovsky-1. An interspecific hybrid, the “parents” are Webb’s rose and wrinkled rosehip. Height - up to 2 m. Productivity is not bad, about 3 kg of berries per bush. The fruits ripen at the end of August and are distinguished by a high content of not only vitamin C, but also E (folic acid). The skin is glossy, orange-red. The shape is almost spherical. Frost resistance is low - up to -15ºС. This is a good pollinator for other rosehip varieties;
- Russian-1. The bush is very decorative, graceful, the leaves are pale green. The vitamin C content is about 3200 mg per 100 g. The fruits are one-dimensional, almost spherical. Productivity - 1.5–2 kg per bush. Bred specifically for cultivation in the Urals. Has genetically built-in immunity against rust;
- Sergievsky. Medium ripening variety. The bush is compact, 1.5–1.8 m high. It has good frost resistance and is resistant to diseases and pests. Recommended for cultivation in the Volga region. The fruits are bright red, ovoid, weighing 3–4 g. The pulp is sweet and sour. Vitamin C content is about 2500 mg per 100 g.
Photo gallery: common varieties of rose hips
The root system of a rosehip seedling must be developed and healthy
The recommended depth of the planting hole is about 30 cm, the diameter is 15–20 cm larger. It is always prepared in advance, for spring planting - in the fall, otherwise at least a few weeks before the planned procedure. Upper layer fertile soil mixed with 2–3 kg of humus, simple superphosphate and potassium sulfate (20–30 g each) are also added.
A natural alternative is about 0.5 liters of sifted wood ash.
Step by step planting process
- Before planting, the roots of the seedling are soaked in water, trimmed to a length of 20 cm, and coated with a mixture of powdered clay and manure.
- When it dries, the plant is placed in a planting hole and covered with soil. It is imperative to ensure that the root collar is 3–4 cm above the soil level.
- The shrub is watered abundantly (25–30 l).
- The tree trunk circle is mulched, creating a layer about 3 cm thick.
- The shoots are trimmed to a length of 10–15 cm, the leaves are torn off.
To prevent the active formation of shoots, sheets of slate are placed along the walls of the planting pit.
When planting rose hips, do not bury the root collar.
Features of transplantation
To transplant an adult rose hip bush, you need to choose a cool, cloudy day. The roots should not be left in the sun, even for a short time. They dry out quickly, reducing the chances that the rosehip will successfully take root in a new place. The plant is removed from the soil along with a lump of earth. The procedure is carried out either in early spring, before the growth buds “wake up,” or in the fall, after harvesting and leaf fall. Flowering bushes It is not recommended to disturb.
Care
The plant is not demanding and capricious. Care comes down to keeping the tree trunk clean and loosening the soil in it, watering, fertilizing and regular pruning.
Watering
Rosehip is a moisture-loving plant, but it categorically does not tolerate stagnation of water at the roots. Therefore, water the plant infrequently, but abundantly. In extreme heat and in the absence of precipitation, 30–40 liters of water are spent on the plant every 10–12 days until the first harvest is obtained, and 60–70 liters per fruit-bearing bush. In the first year of life, young seedlings are watered more often, once every 5–7 days.
After each watering, the soil is tree trunk circle loosen to a depth of 3–5 cm. To retain moisture, it is mulched. Mulch also helps save time on weeding by inhibiting the growth of weeds.
Fertilizer application
If landing pit was prepared correctly, they begin to feed the rose hips from the second season of stay in open ground. Fertilizers are applied three times.
- The first feeding is carried out 1.5–2 weeks before flowering. The plant is watered with a solution of urea or any other nitrogen-containing fertilizer. Once every 2–3 years, about 20 liters of humus or rotted manure are additionally distributed in the tree trunk circle in the spring.
- The second time, fertilizers are applied immediately after flowering. Any complex product for fruit and berry bushes(Agricola, Zdraven, Effecton). 20–30 ml of fertilizer are diluted in 10 liters of water, the norm is mature plant- 12–15 l of solution.
- The last time the rosehip bushes are fed is 2–3 weeks after the end of fruiting. For proper preparation By winter, plants need potassium and phosphorus. The solution is prepared by diluting 20–25 g of simple superphosphate in 10 liters of water and half as much potassium nitrate. An alternative is complex phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (AVA, Autumn) or an infusion of wood ash.
If the condition of the plant does not suit you, during the vegetative season after flowering it can be sprayed once every 2-3 weeks with a solution of any biostimulant (potassium humate, Epin, Heteroauxin, Zircon). This has a positive effect on the yield and quality of the fruit.
Any universal complex fertilizer for berry bushes is quite suitable for feeding rose hips.
Proper pruning
Characteristic of rose hips high speed growth and active formation of root shoots. Therefore, pruning is a mandatory procedure for it. It is significantly complicated by the presence of thorns. To avoid injury, use pruning shears with long handles.
The first time the plant is pruned immediately after planting, leaving no more than 3 growth buds on each shoot. After another 2–3 years, the bush is thinned out, leaving 3–5 of the strongest and most developed shoots. They are shortened to a length of 15–20 cm. A properly formed plant should consist of 15–22 branches of different ages, but not older than 7 years.
Don't forget about sanitary pruning. In the spring you need to get rid of all broken, dried out, frozen branches damaged by diseases and pests. Also, weak, deformed shoots that thicken the crown and are located too low are pruned to the growth point.
Autumn sanitary pruning it is desirable to reduce it to the necessary minimum. Even properly treated cuts do not withstand winter cold very well.
The tops of rosehip shoots in hedges are regularly pinched. This way the height is regulated and more intensive branching is stimulated.
Preparing for winter
Most rosehip varieties bred through selective breeding are distinguished by good or even very good frost resistance, so they do not need special shelter for the winter. Even if the bush suffers from cold weather, it recovers quickly enough due to the basal shoots. Most often, growth buds on annual shoots freeze.
Ornamental varieties of rose hips suffer from cold weather much more often. For them, even -15ºС is a critically low temperature. Therefore, special preparation is recommended. The tree trunk circle is cleared of plant debris, and a layer of mulch about 15 cm thick is created. It is best to use peat, humus, and fallen leaves. As soon as enough snow has fallen, it is raked to the roots. If the height of the bush allows, it can be completely covered with snow.
Harvest and storage
The rosehip harvest ripens in several “waves”. It is collected from August to the end of September or even until the beginning of October. It is important to arrive before the first frost. Fruits damaged by cold significantly lose their benefits. When preparing for harvest, do not forget about the means personal protection- thick clothing, gloves. You can remove those fruits from which the sepals come off.
The rosehip harvest must be harvested before the cold weather
For long-term storage Rose hips are most often dried in the oven or in a natural way. Then the berries are poured into any suitable containers, which must be kept loosely closed. Otherwise, mold and rot will quickly develop. To add taste and aroma, the fruits are sprinkled with pieces of ginger and grated citrus zest. After drying, you need to wait at least a week, only then can the rose hips be used to prepare decoctions and infusions.
During the drying process, the benefits of rose hips are not lost, and the shelf life increases noticeably
Video: growing and harvesting rose hips
Methods of culture propagation
Rosehip reproduces both vegetatively and generatively. Amateur gardeners most often use the first option, which guarantees the preservation of the varietal characteristics of the parent plant. Growing rose hips from seeds is a rather lengthy and labor-intensive procedure that does not guarantee success.
Cuttings
Rosehip cuttings do not root very well. This is especially true for decorative hybrids bred with the participation of wrinkled rose hips. The success rate is no more than 15–20%.
Rose hip cutting is the upper or middle part of an annual green shoot 15–20 cm long, cut at an angle of 45º. They are harvested in mid-summer. Each one must have at least three growth buds.
Rosehip cuttings can be harvested throughout the summer, but the best time for this is July
- Before disembarking lower leaves cut off, the base of the cutting is immersed in a solution of any biostimulant for 12–16 hours.
- Root the cuttings in a mixture of peat and baking powder (sand, perlite, vermiculite), creating a greenhouse using a plastic bag placed on a container, a glass cap, and a trimmed plastic bottle. They are planted in the ground obliquely.
- Next, you need to ensure a constant temperature of about 25ºC, daylight hours of at least 12 hours, bottom heating.
- The substrate is constantly maintained slightly wet, the greenhouse is ventilated daily to get rid of condensation.
- When new leaves begin to appear on the rooted cuttings, they can be transplanted into open ground. On average, the process lasts 4–6 weeks.
- The seedlings are first hardened off for 2–3 weeks, gradually extending the time spent in the open air.
- The rosehip is removed from the container along with a lump of earth. If autumn planting not recommended in the region; you can wait until spring.
Using root shoots
Most rosehip varieties produce basal shoots in abundance. This method of obtaining new plants is provided by nature itself. At the same time, it is not recommended to immediately transfer seedlings separated from the mother plant to a permanent place. Their root system is weak and not very developed.
Most rosehip varieties and hybrids produce basal shoots in abundance, so there is a shortage planting material, as a rule, does not occur
“Sprouts” 25–30 cm high are separated from the mother plant using a shovel. In order for the transplantation procedure to be successful, approximately half of the leaves are torn off, the shoots are shortened, leaving 2-3 growth buds. The roots are dusted with Kornevin powder.
An alternative option is to hill the selected “seedling” high in the spring and water it abundantly during the summer, adding humus or rotted compost under the roots about once a month. Hilling stimulates the development of a system of adventitious roots. In the fall, it is carefully separated from the mother plant, and next spring it is transferred to a permanent place.
Germination of seeds
Rosehip seeds are extracted from unripe brown fruits while they still have a fairly soft shell. Otherwise, their germination is possible only if stratification is carried out at least six months, and seedlings will have to wait 2–3 years.
Rosehip seeds are extracted from unripe fruits - in this case they have a softer shell
Before winter, rosehip seeds are sown in furrows about 2 cm deep, leaving 5–6 cm between them. They are covered with humus and sawdust on top. In the spring, this section of the bed is covered with plastic film before germination. It is removed only when the daytime temperature reaches around 20ºC.
Seedlings in the phase of appearance of the third leaf dive, leaving only the most powerful and developed plants. Further care behind them is no different from what adult rose hips require. Next spring, the seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent location.
If spring planting is planned, during the winter the seeds are kept in containers filled with a moderately moist mixture of peat chips and sand in dark place at a temperature of 2–3ºС. They must first be thoroughly cleaned of pulp so as not to provoke the development of mold or rot.
Closer to spring, the seed shell cracks. They are planted in a mixture of peat and sand, providing the same conditions as rooting cuttings. Plants are ready for planting in the ground in 1.5–2 years.
Diseases, pests and their control
The thorny shoots of rose hips protect the bush well from many pests that can attack garden plants. The culture also has good immunity against pathogenic fungi. However, the plant does not have absolute protection.
Most often, rose hips suffer from the following diseases:
- leaf rust. On the underside of the leaf, areas of a “fleecy” yellow-orange coating appear. Gradually they turn brown and thicken, and the affected tissues die. For prevention, swelling leaf buds are sprayed with a 2% solution copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. During the season, treatments are carried out with soda ash (15–20 g per 5 liters of water). Having detected alarming symptoms, apply fungicides (Topaz, Vectra, Strobi) twice with an interval of 12–15 days;
- black spot. The disease spreads from bottom to top. Small, gradually growing rounded black-gray spots with a yellow border appear on the leaves and shoots. The affected parts of the plant dry out and die. For prevention, about once a month the soil in the tree trunk circle is watered with Fitosporin-M, in the fall after harvesting it is sprayed with a 2% solution of ferrous sulfate. Folk remedy- iodine solution (2 ml per 1 liter of water). For control, drugs Topaz, HOM, Abiga-Pik are used, 2-3 treatments are carried out with an interval of 7-10 days;
- powdery mildew. Leaves and shoots are covered with a layer of whitish or grayish coating, similar to spilled flour. Gradually it thickens and darkens, acquiring a brown tint. For prevention, rose hips are sprayed with an infusion of wood ash, garlic, mustard powder, a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, diluted with kefir water. They fight the disease using the drugs Topsin-M, Vitaros, Bayleton (according to the instructions);
- downy mildew. Lime-colored spots with a shiny, oil-like surface appear on the leaves between the veins. The fabrics in these places gradually dry out and crumble, and holes appear. For prevention, the soil in the tree trunk circle and rosehip bushes are dusted with crushed chalk, colloidal sulfur, wood ash. To combat the disease, Planriz, Gamair, Alirin-B are used, carrying out treatments no more often than once every 2 weeks;
- chlorosis. The leaves are covered with yellow or almost white blurry spots, limited by veins. The cause is most often iron deficiency. To eliminate it, in 1 l cold water dissolve 5 g of ascorbic acid and 2–3 g of iron sulfate. The shelf life of the solution is 12–15 days. Ferrovit and Ferrilene preparations can also be used for spraying.
A folk remedy for preventing chlorosis is to bury several rusty nails under a bush.
To combat leaf rust, as well as other fungal diseases, copper-containing preparations are used. Most often, chlorosis is provoked by iron deficiency in the soil
Most of the pests typical for the crop are also characteristic of roses, which are much more often subject to their attacks. Therefore, in order to avoid infection, it is advisable to place these crops as far from each other as possible in the garden plot.
Pests that threaten rose hips:
- spider mite Young leaves, tops of shoots, buds are entwined with thin translucent threads, reminiscent of a cobweb, and covered with small beige dots. The affected parts of the plant become deformed and dry out. For prevention, rose hips are sprayed with an infusion of onion or garlic pulp or a decoction of cyclamen tubers every 5–7 days. Having discovered a pest, acaricides are used (Omite, Apollo, Neoron, Vertimek) with an interval of 5–12 days. The medications need to be changed so that the tick does not have time to develop immunity;
- rosehip variegated fly. Adults lay eggs in fruit ovaries; the hatched larvae eat the fruit from the inside, leaving only the skin. For prevention, rose hips are sprayed with Actellik immediately before flowering. Chlorophos and Kinmiks are used for control;
- rose sawfly. The larvae feed on leaf tissue, leaving only veins, and eat away the longitudinal passages in the shoots. As a result, they turn black and wither. For prophylaxis, leafy flower buds and fruit ovaries are sprayed with infusion of wormwood or horsetail. Having discovered a pest, use Inta-Vir, Actellik, Fosbecid, Aktaru;
- rose leaf roller. Adult butterflies lay eggs in leaves that curl up along the central vein. The larvae eat away the buds and fruit ovaries from the inside, then move on to the leaves, leaving only the veins. For prevention, unopened buds are sprayed with Nitrafen, and after flowering, Karbofos is used. They fight caterpillars with Lepidocide, Dendrobacillin, Endobacterin;
- green roseate aphid. Small lime-colored insects stick to the underside of leaves, tops of shoots, flowers and buds, and fruit ovaries. Once every 5–8 days you need to spray the rose hips with any strong-smelling infusion. As raw materials you can use garlic or onion arrows, orange peels, hot peppers, wormwood, tomato tops, and tobacco chips. Using the same means, they fight the pest, increasing the number of treatments to 3-4 times a day. If there is no effect, use any general-action insecticide (Confidor, Mospilan, Iskra-Bio, Komandor). Spider mite not an insect, so they are used to combat it special drugs- acaricides Aphids are one of the most omnivorous garden pests, she won’t pass by the rosehip either
