Crop rotation is an agronomic term that refers to the natural, scientifically based annual change or alternation of crops in one or more fields included in the cycle of cultivation of these plants.
Sowing planning
Vegetable crop rotation contributes to the accumulation of nutrients in the soil, making it healthier from pathogens and wintering stages of insect pests. Layout and joint cultivation create opportunities for increased yields. Every amateur vegetable grower should have a crop rotation table. It is advisable to remember the principles of fruit change according to various characteristics:
- By type of economically valuable part of the crop in direct and reverse order ROOT VEGETABLES are replaced by FRUITS, then LEAFY VEGETABLES - FLOWERS;
- Based on belonging to the biological family: plants from the pumpkin, legume, goosefoot and cabbage families are replaced by the nightshade family.
What to plant next
In addition to clear ideas about the sequence, it is important to know a number of rules related to soil fertility and a favorable phytosanitary regime:
- The same crop should not be cultivated in one place for more than one year. Even if the crops are different but belong to the same botanical family, they should not follow each other, since they are damaged by the same pests and react the same to soil toxins;
- It is useful to leave the soil fallow, without planting anything for 1-2 years; during the season the area is weeded and loosened, watered if necessary;
- Plants that were grown on the site last year leave behind volumes of root residues, which then rot and create a supply of necessary macro- and microelements in the soil. In addition, bushes with a deep-penetrating root system saturate the soil with oxygen and make it moisture-permeable;
- Tops of vegetable crops and flowers significantly enrich the soil with organic matter, and the site looks clean and tidy;
- Plants that emit substances that repel insect pests can significantly reduce the pesticide load on the soil and the environment;
- The annual cultivation of plants that are highly demanding in terms of mineral nutrition significantly depletes the soil.
Watch the video! What can you plant after - tips for gardeners
Advice! Use the tops of vegetable and flower crops to make compost and create warm beds!
If you follow the above rules, the accumulation of nutrients and soil health will occur in a systematic and targeted manner. Gardeners need to keep a diary where they can record all manipulations in the garden and vegetable garden.
Use of mixed plantings
A number of studies and practical experience of vegetable growers indicate the positive effect of mixed plantings of vegetables. The most suitable planting schemes include:
- onions + carrots;
- radishes + carrots;
- onion + cabbage;
- beets + cabbage.
Seeds are sown in alternating rows, while they help each other to germinate and protect against possible pests. When planning joint plantings of vegetables, it is important to take into account their relationship to light.
There are no shade-loving crops among vegetables. In the complete absence of direct sun rays they stop developing and produce poor quality crops.
Table 1 – Relation of vegetable crops to light level
Good predecessors of vegetable crops
All plantings leave behind in the soil, in addition to a set of mineral and organic substances, beneficial or toxic substances, root residues. If you choose the right sequence of plants and actively use compost, you can effectively manage soil fertility. Basic vegetable crops and good precursors for them are given in Table 2.
Table 2 - Main vegetable crops and good predecessors for them
| Culture | Predecessor |
| Beans, beans, peas | White cabbage, Chinese cabbage, broccoli, potatoes, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, onion, garlic, pepper, eggplant |
| Cabbage, beets | Cucumber, potato, pepper, carrot, beans, pumpkin, eggplant, tomato |
| Potato | Cabbage, cucumber, pumpkin, onion, garlic, carrots |
| Onion garlic | Cabbage, potatoes, legumes, greens, radishes |
| Carrot | Cucumber, potato, cabbage, tomato, legumes |
| Cucumber, pumpkin, zucchini | Cabbage, legumes, onions, garlic, corn |
| Pepper, eggplant | Cabbage, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, onion, garlic, legumes, carrots |
| Tomato | Cucumber, carrots, cabbage, onions, beets |
All plants have certain requirements for soil fertility and tolerate fixed amounts of nutrients. Table 3 presents the categories of vegetable and green crops according to the level of removal of nutrients from the soil.
The level of nutrient removal from the soil means that in order to grow subsequent crops, nutrients must be added back to the soil in a volume exceeding that which was carried out by the previous crop in order to accumulate fertility.
Healthy! Leave the soil under clean fallow for 1-2 years after every 5-6 years of use.
Scheme of alternating plants at a summer cottage
Let's look at how to correctly draw up a vegetable crop rotation scheme for a summer residence. The primary task is to draw up a map-plan of the site indicating buildings, utility facilities, trees, area of beds and cardinal directions. This will allow you to see the most illuminated and shaded areas. The easiest way to create a crop rotation is to divide the entire area under the beds into 4 sectors and move the entire set of summer vegetable crops along them.
Important! In the garden where crops from the first group grew last year, representatives of the second group should be planted this year, etc.
Thus, dacha crop rotation includes 4 groups of vegetable plants:
- Cucumber, cabbage, zucchini, pumpkin, squash;
- Tomato, onion, radish, garlic, green crops;
- Carrots, beets, radishes, root parsley;
- Potato.
This combination of vegetables takes into account the ratio of the volume of demand in each type. The following year, the set of crops moves to the neighboring sector. The proposed scheme is very convenient. Over time, summer residents develop the habit of correctly arranging crops and the need to keep records disappears.
Attention! For soil under greenhouses and temporary shelters, the requirement for crop rotation also remains.
Good and bad neighborhoods
Good compatibility of crops for joint planting
Many years of experience in cultivating garden crops allows us to compile a list of plants that have a beneficial effect on each other:
Watch the video! Vegetable neighbors in the garden beds
Poor compatibility of crops for joint planting
The peculiarity of growing plants in summer cottages is that it is relatively small area accommodate a wide range of crops, both trees, shrubs and vegetables. The fact is that many fruit and nut trees can have bad influence on plants that are in close proximity to them. Here are examples of negative proximity:
- Walnut inhibits any plants that come into contact with the substance it secretes - juglone;
- Fennel oppresses all crops in close proximity;
- Legumes and wormwood do not get along well;
- Potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes and strawberries grow worse if they are in the zone of influence of each other’s roots, this also applies to all representatives of the Solanaceae family;
- Cabbage and strawberries are two crops that attract a huge number of pests to the site, which negatively affects the growth of each crop individually.
Thus, time spent on designing crop rotations at the dacha is not wasted. A competent approach and thoughtful decisions will allow you to correctly design your dacha crop rotation, save on fertilizers and plant protection products, and get a significant harvest of vegetables.
Watch the video! Crop rotation of vegetable crops
Properly organized crop rotation can significantly increase the yield and quality of crops grown on the site. By planting vegetables in the same place, we deplete the soil, creating favorable conditions for the propagation of diseases and pests. The authors of reference books for gardeners and vegetable gardeners unanimously state: vegetables need to be planted in a new place every year, and returned to the old place only after 3-4 years. In practice this is not always possible, but it is still worth trying. And the information given in this article will help you 😉
Predecessors of vegetable crops
- Divide the plot into 3-5 parts and alternate vegetable crops on them annually. In this case, vegetables are combined into groups (cabbage, nightshade, onion, legumes, pumpkin, green, root vegetables) and move in groups around the site. Perennial crops are placed outside the crop rotation (for example, along a fence).
D. G. Hession in the book “All about Vegetables” gives the following crop rotation scheme:
The author says that it is enough to alternate root crops and crops in the garden beds whose aerial parts are eaten. And one more thing: do not plant vegetables from the same group where they grew poorly last year.
Tables
Based on observations and practical experiences, tables of vegetable crop predecessors have been compiled. There are many such tables, and the data in them may differ insignificantly.
Table No. 1: PREDECESSORS TO VEGETABLES
Table of PREDECESSORS OF CULTURES No. 2:
Table No. 3: PREDECESSORS TO VEGETABLE CROPS
Take note of one of the tables you like and draw up your crop rotation plan. To do this, you can keep a notebook and write down the layout of vegetables there every year so as not to forget.
Vegetable neighbors
It has been proven that plants are able to influence each other in different ways: oppress a neighbor in the garden or, conversely, promote active growth and even repel pests. Therefore, when planning the placement of vegetable crops on a site, it is also necessary to take into account the characteristics of the neighborhood. As a rule, this is important for mixed and compacted crops. And if incompatible plants simply grow in neighboring beds, nothing critical will happen. Our dacha plots are sometimes so small that it becomes simply impossible to make long-distance divisions.
Table No. 4: NEIGHBORS OF VEGETABLES IN BEDS
Table No. 5: COMPATIBILITY OF CROPS IN MIXED CROPPINGS
In order to achieve higher yields and save space on the site, compacted sowing technology is used (vegetables are planted in a certain sequence in one bed). There are a lot of options for combinations of crops in such crops described in the literature! We recommend you read it 😉 And this article, we hope, will help you decide on the predecessors and neighbors of vegetables in your beds. Happy sowing and rich harvests!
Crop rotation– correct alternation of fruit, berry and vegetable crops in a certain area. The main tasks of this process:
- Preservation of soil fertility;
- Increased productivity;
- Reducing the likelihood of crop disease.
To horticultural crops from year to year they were pleased with their harvest and did not get sick, you need to adhere to the crop rotation scheme.
Let us explain in more detail. According to the rules of botany, it is impossible to grow a plant in the same place every year. This is due to a number of reasons.
Firstly, any crop, no matter vegetable or berry, tends to take certain microelements from the soil. If you do not follow the rules of crop rotation, the land will become depleted and lose its fertile properties.
Secondly, when a certain vegetable crop is grown in the same area, pests appear in the soil, which will damage it when replanted.
Crop rotation of vegetable crops
Observations have shown that the correct plant rotation allows you to evenly distribute microelements in the soil.
Today there is list, which determines the order of planting both vegetable and berry crops.
The best and worst predecessors:
- Onion (onion), garlic. Do not plant after carrots. Good predecessors for these crops are: cabbage (early or cauliflower variety), zucchini, potatoes (early), pumpkins, legumes (beans and peas)
- Carrots and parsley. They grow well after any varieties of cabbage, greens (except lettuce), and potatoes. You cannot place a garden bed where carrots and parsley have already grown for 2-3 years.
- Cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkins. These crops are usually planted after colored or early cabbage, onion, garlic. Precursors such as potatoes, beets, peas and greens (lettuce, dill) are also not prohibited. It is not recommended to plant the above vegetables from the pumpkin family where cabbage grew ( late varieties), carrots, and tomatoes
- Cabbage, radish, turnip. For the listed vegetable crops, it is customary to allocate a new bed every year. You cannot plant it in the same place for 2 years in a row. Good predecessors are considered to be: potatoes, tomatoes, onions. It is permissible to plant in the place where beans, peas, carrots and beets used to be
- Tomatoes. It is also advisable to plant tomatoes in a new place each time. This crop grows well after cucumbers, turnips, cauliflower, and greens. It is forbidden to plant tomatoes where potatoes used to grow.
- Potato. An excellent potato harvest can be harvested if it is planted after legumes and grains, cabbage, pumpkins, cucumbers, beets and herbs. Poor predecessors include tomatoes. It is very important not to place potatoes in one place for 2 years in a row, in order to prevent the Colorado potato beetle
- Beet. The list of excellent predecessors includes: cucumbers, potatoes (early) and greens. It is also allowed to plant beets after cabbage (cauliflower or early variety), onions, tomatoes and carrots. It has been noticed that beets grow poorly and get sick if they are planted in the place where they grew last season.
- Eggplant. You can safely plant after cucumbers, onions, cabbage of early ripening varieties, perennial herbs (schizandra, mint, etc.). The worst predecessors: potatoes, tomatoes, peppers and eggplants. (By the way, about how to plant eggplant seedlings, read
- Corn. The plant is unpretentious. It is not demanding of its predecessors. It grows well in place of legumes, but can be sown after any other crop.
- Green crops (mustard, lettuce, radishes, sorrel, etc.). They bring a good harvest after legumes, cabbage (early and cauliflower), cucumbers, onions and garlic. Bad predecessors are carrots and late varieties of cabbage.
Crop rotation of fruit and berry crops
When growing fruit and berry crops crop rotation rules are not canceled.
Here you should also try to alternate subsequence planting:
Crop rotation of flower crops
It is noteworthy that the crop rotation also includes flower crops.
Some varieties of flowers are usually planted after vegetables, others are not demanding at all and can grow well in one permanent place:
Crop rotation scheme at a summer cottage
For successful cultivation on summer cottage vegetable and fruit crops, experienced gardeners recommend drawing up your crop rotation scheme.
- The very first thing to do is to mentally divide the area into four sectors(in no particular order)
- In the first Potatoes should be planted, as well as vegetable crops sensitive to frost (zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, etc.)
- Second sector can be used for any root vegetables (carrots, radishes, beets, etc.)
- On the third site it is permissible to place cruciferous crops (various types of cabbage), and on the fourth site legumes, onions and garlic.
Good to know! Vegetable crops can be returned to their original planting site after about 4-5 years (this is why you need to divide the plot into four sectors)
At the beginning of the season, it is recommended to plant each crop in the next sector, and in their place those plants that were placed in the previous section. Let's give a clear example:
1 year
Sector No. 1. Potatoes, vegetable crops that do not tolerate frost well (tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, etc.);
Sector No. 2. Root vegetables (carrots, beets, etc.);
Sector No. 3. Cruciferous vegetables (cabbage, lettuce, etc.);
Sector No. 4. Onion, garlic, legumes (peas, beans, etc.).
2 year
Sector No. 1. Onions, garlic, legumes;
Sector No. 2. Potatoes, vegetable crops that do not tolerate frost well;
Sector No. 3. Roots;
Sector No. 4. Cruciferous.
Sector No. 1. Cruciferous;
Sector No. 2. Onions, garlic, legumes;
Sector No. 3. Potatoes, vegetable crops that do not tolerate frost well;
Sector No. 4. Roots.
4 year
Sector No. 1. Roots;
Sector No. 2. Cruciferous;
Sector No. 3. Onions, garlic, legumes;
Sector No. 4. Potatoes and vegetables that do not tolerate frost well.
It is believed that due to the change of cultures, personal plot No pests or diseases are scary. Even if harmful insects appear, they will not cause much damage to the next crop.
You can watch detailed information on how to organize crop rotation at your summer cottage in this video.
Ecology of life. Estate: Crop rotation of vegetable crops is the necessary alternation of plants grown in your beds. Crop rotation in the garden should ideally be annual and continuous. This means that nothing should grow in the same place for two or more years in a row!
Crop rotation of vegetable crops is the necessary alternation of plants grown in your beds. Crop rotation in the garden should ideally be annual and continuous. This means that nothing should grow in the same place for two or more years in a row! This, of course, is ideal, and not every summer resident can realize such a utopian vision. However, “Gardener and Ogorodnik” will try to help you in this difficult matter.
We have definitely prepared for you useful diagrams and tables, which you can download, as usual, from the link at the end of the article. For now, let's get down to theory.
Crop rotation of vegetable crops: table for busy gardeners
In general, establishing crop rotation is not a quick task and requires a certain amount of time. This is due to the fact that when alternating crops, it is necessary to take into account quite a few factors: the plant’s need for nutrition, belonging to a biological family, soil contamination by pests, etc. For those who do not have enough time for lengthy calculations and construction of diagrams, we offer a quick and easy solution.
“Crop rotation table: successors and predecessors of vegetables when planting” will help you navigate the choice of plants for a particular garden bed, without going into details. The only thing you need to remember when using it is that the crop can return to its original place after at least 3 to 4 years.
Crop rotation table: successors and predecessors of vegetables when planting
As can be seen from this summary table of crop rotation, there are the best predecessors of vegetable crops, acceptable and bad:
The best predecessors of tomatoes are cauliflower and early cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, greens, carrots and green manure. It is permissible to plant tomatoes after onions, garlic, herbs, beets, cabbage of late and medium varieties. After other crops, it is no longer worth planting tomatoes in the garden.
Wonderful predecessors of cabbage are cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin and legumes. But then comes the division. For late and medium varieties, early potatoes and carrots are good, and for early and cauliflower It is better to sow after green manure and onions and garlic.
Good predecessors of onions and garlic (which you do not grow for greens) are cauliflower and early cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, early potatoes, peas, beans, beans and green manure.
The best predecessors of cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, etc. are onions, garlic, legumes, corn, early cabbage and cauliflower.
Good predecessors of peas are any cabbage, early potatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins and squash.
Excellent predecessors of carrots are cabbage, potatoes, herbs and spices, cucumbers, zucchini and green manure.
The best predecessors of peppers and eggplants are cucumbers, onions, carrots, green manure, etc.
Good predecessors of beets are spices and herbs, potatoes, cucumbers, etc.
Wonderful predecessors of potatoes are zucchini, garlic, legumes, green manure, etc.
It seems that you managed to figure out how the table works without much difficulty. So, the “hurries” leave us, and we move on.
Crop rotation of vegetables in the beds: necessity or whim
For those summer residents who are not limited in time, “Gardener and Ogorodnik” invites them to “dig deeper.” First let's look at objective reasons, which speak of the undoubted practical benefits and need for crop rotation in the country.
Causes of soil fatigue:
1. Accumulation of pests and pathogens.
If for a long time plant, for example, potatoes in the same place, then the number of wireworms, Colorado potato beetles and late blight pathogens will inevitably increase in this area. The same is true for other crops. By growing the same vegetables in the same beds all the time, you risk getting dominated by onion flies, another cabbage clubroot, on the third carrot flea beetles, etc. What can we say about root and leaf nematodes, rot and other “minor” troubles.
2. Accumulation of toxins.
Another reason that speaks of the need for vegetable crop rotation is the inevitable toxic root exudates - colins. Many vegetable crops are very sensitive to their own toxins. If you continue to plant them in one place, the harvests will become worse and worse every year, even despite the absence of pests and diseases. For example, spinach and beets are most susceptible to their root secretions. Parsley, radish, radishes, celery, carrots and pumpkin crops. The least affected crops are corn, leeks and legumes. A lot of toxins remain in tomato, cucumber, carrot and cabbage beds.
3. Nutritional needs.
The supply of nutrients on the site is not unlimited. Each plant has its own nutrient requirements. Some cultures are less demanding, while others are more demanding. Therefore, it is very important to know “who is who” in order to track the condition of a particular bed. So, if you plant related plants in the same place, then in a few years they will “suck” out of it everything necessary for growth, depleting the supply of some elements. As a result, productivity will fall.
All these factors together give rise to the so-called soil fatigue. We can and should fight this. The most effective remedy- this is the same crop rotation of vegetables at your dacha.
Crop rotation in the garden: combating soil depletion
To prevent the horrors described above from becoming a reality at your favorite dacha or plot, it is enough to remember and adhere to three simple rules crop rotation.
1. Rule of botany.
You should never plant not just the same plant one after another, but even related crops belonging to the same species! This is the very first, most important and important thing.
Judge for yourself:
- Their diseases and pests are most often the same. Therefore, the first reason will not be eliminated.
- Their toxins are also similar. Colins of one plant are processed only by cultures of another botanical species. This means that the second reason will remain in place.
- The nutrition and need for microelements in crops of the same family are also almost identical. It turns out that the third reason is here to stay.
Conclusion: Crop rotation of vegetables within the same botanical family is useless!
2. Rule of time.
The longer the culture does not return, the better!
The minimum period after which the plant can be returned to its original place is 3 years. For carrots, parsley, beets, and cucumbers, it is better to increase it to 4-5 years. Cabbage, when clubroot appears, can only be returned after 6-7 years. If there is an opportunity (there is enough space, many crops are grown), then feel free to increase these numbers, it will only get better.
Otherwise, the same three causes of soil fatigue will again not be eliminated.
3. Rule of fertility.
When determining the order of crop rotation in a crop rotation, remember about nutrition and plants that help enrich the soil with the necessary elements.
All crops use nutrients for their growth, some more, some less. Plants that are very demanding on nutrition should not be planted one after another.
Some crops improve the fertile layer by the very fact of their growth in this place. These include almost all legumes. They not only loosen the soil, but also fill it with mineral elements. No wonder many vegetables love them as predecessors. By the way, plants of other species have similar qualities, in which root system deep, powerful and developed.
Others contain essential substances in their roots and leaves. These plants need to be known and, if possible, composted. Although this is a separate topic, we will still give a few examples.
In accordance with this rule, we advise you, when drawing up the order of alternating crops in a crop rotation, to pay attention not only to the botanical species and timing, but also to the nutritional requirements and improvement of fertility. Thus:
- after each plant that requires nutrition, next year it is worth planting legumes or seriously fertilizing the garden bed,
- after a less demanding vegetable, you can plant a more demanding one, moderately fertilizing the soil.
To make it more convenient to navigate when alternating crops in crop rotation, “Gardener and Gardener” has prepared a special memo for you.
Memo: “What to consider when alternating vegetable crops in crop rotation”
Vegetable crop rotation scheme at the dacha
Giving any options for crop rotation schemes is a waste of time. Each gardener’s dacha plot is unique, which means that few standard crop rotation plans will suit anyone. And it’s not even about the size of the plot or the number of beds. It’s just that the vegetable crops that are cultivated are different for everyone. Someone plants a lot of cabbage different types, and some literally have 5-6 plants. Some people plant 5 acres of potatoes, while for others 5 square meters is enough. meters. Some people plant many crops in a greenhouse, while others have a greenhouse only for tomatoes and cucumbers. Therefore, it is more advisable for each summer resident to independently plan crop rotation and draw up individual schemes for himself.
We outlined the basic principles that should be adhered to above. Now let's step back from the ideal and plunge into reality. Next, “Gardener and Ogorodnik” offers you a list of practical tips on arranging crop rotation.
Crop rotation at a summer cottage: practical advice
1. Human memory is not limitless. Remembering what kind of vegetable was sitting in this garden bed five years ago is an impossible task for most summer residents. Therefore, the first piece of advice is not to be lazy and draw up a plan of your plot with all the beds in a notebook. On this plan, you will mark the planted crops every year. Those with a lot of free time can immediately mark plants that are likely to be planted a year, two or three in advance. The rest, to make up full map Crop rotation will take 5-6 years (according to the average time of crop return).
2. During the sowing process, decide and write down in your notebook how much space each crop takes up.(a third of the bed, a quarter, half, a whole, etc.). This is necessary in order to next years could be "folded" suitable landings like pieces of a mosaic. After all, it is not necessary to sow the entire garden bed with one crop. If you can plant cabbage and greens after the onions, do so - half a bed of one, half a bed of the second. Just remember to check the compatibility of neighboring plants.
3. If it is not possible to change the place of some culture(well, this happens too), don’t despair. Just add a “neighbor” from another family to her garden bed (don’t forget to check the compatibility table). Thus, self-poisoning plants (beets, spinach, carrots, etc.), which we talked about in the second reason (Accumulation of toxins), can grow in one place completely calmly and without loss in yield for up to 3 years. After all, neighbors of another species are good at processing and absorbing their destructive toxins. Mixed planting Works better when it's really mixed. That is, not half a bed of beets and half a bed of carrots, but a row of this, a row of that. Or better yet, fill the row spaces with the same beans.
Here, perhaps, is all the information you need to organize correct and effective crop rotation at your dacha. The table will help you quickly decide on the crop to be sown. Reminder - plan everything in advance. Practical advice- solve problems that arise during the process. Have a good harvest! published
What should I plant next? Smart planning crops
Crop rotation table
When planning future crops, you must first take into account order of crop rotation. This is very important for the future harvest. After all, correct crop rotation allows you to avoid damage by pests and diseases, as well as maintain soil fertility. Conversely, when growing the same vegetables for several years in a row, the supply of nutrients in the beds is depleted and soil infections accumulate.
Experienced gardeners always take this factor into account, which allows them to get more high yields. In order not to get confused in the “five hundred square meters”, it is worth drawing a plan for your garden for the coming summer and a rough planting plan for the next year, observing correct order rotation of vegetable crops.
Cabbage
You cannot plant cabbage and other cruciferous vegetables (radishes, radishes) in the same place earlier than after 2-3 years. It is better to place white cabbage after potatoes, tomatoes, and onions; It is permissible to plant after beans, peas, carrots and beets.
Potato
The best predecessors for potatoes are cabbage and various root vegetables. A bad predecessor for potatoes is tomato, since these crops have common pests and pathogens. Potatoes should be grown in the same place no earlier than -3.
cucumbers
For cucumbers, you should look for a new place every year. They are placed after cauliflower and early white cabbage. You can also grow them after tomatoes, potatoes, peas and beets.
Tomatoes
According to the rules of agricultural technology, you cannot grow tomatoes after potatoes, since - we repeat - the diseases and pests of these crops are the same. Good predecessors for tomatoes are cauliflower and early white cabbage, pumpkin and legumes, root vegetables and onions are acceptable.
If you plant tomatoes in the same place every year, then the soil in this area becomes acidic, so every autumn, when deep digging the soil, you need to add fluff lime to the soil. small quantities(from 50 to 100 g per 1 sq.m.), since tomatoes grow better on neutral soils (pH 6.5-7).
Beet
Growing beets in one place should be done no more than once every three to four years. Beets grow well after cucumbers, zucchini, squash, early cabbage, tomatoes, early potatoes, legumes. It is not advisable to plant beets after vegetables from the goosefoot family (chard, spinach, and again beets).
Onion
Onions should not be planted in one place for more than three or four years in a row. The best predecessors of onions are crops to which large doses were applied organic fertilizers, as well as cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkin, cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes. On heavy clay soils onions won't work good harvest, he prefers light, loose fertile soils and good lighting.
Garlic
You can grow garlic in one place for no more than two years, otherwise contamination of the soil with stem nematode cannot be avoided.
It is better to start garlic after cucumbers, early potatoes, early cabbage and other early-harvested crops (except onions). 
Carrot
Sown after early potatoes, cabbage, green crops (excluding lettuce), placement after tomatoes and peas is allowed.
Eggplant
The best predecessors for eggplants are cucumber, onion, early ripening cabbage, and perennial herbs. You cannot plant eggplants where potatoes, tomatoes, physalis, as well as peppers and eggplants grew last year.
Strawberries
The best predecessors for strawberries: radishes, lettuce, spinach, dill, peas, beans, mustard, radishes, parsley, turnips, carrots, onions, garlic, celery, as well as flowers (tulips, daffodils, marigolds). On poor soil The best predecessors of strawberries are mustard and phacelia (also known as honey plants). Potatoes, tomatoes and other nightshades, as well as cucumbers, are not suitable as predecessors. After them, the plots can be occupied with strawberries only after three to four years.
Strawberry
It is good to plant strawberries after radishes, beans, mustard, radishes, peas, parsley, and garlic. Potatoes, tomatoes and cucumbers are of little use as predecessors. Strawberries should not be placed after all species of the Asteraceae family (sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke) and all types of ranunculaceae.
Together is better
Many years of experience and ingenuity of gardeners suggested one more correct solution — joint plantings. This is both convenient and allows you to get a large assortment of vegetables in a small area. However, not all vegetables can be placed in close proximity, since not all crops have a beneficial effect on each other. This is explained by the mutual action of phytoncides and other volatile substances released by plants.
Carrot can be planted together with peas, marjoram, and onions (this is even useful, since joint planting with onions repels the carrot fly). Bulb onions goes well with beets, chicory, and carrots. Peas and vegetable beans get along well with potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, cucumbers, pumpkin, melon and watermelon. TO potatoes it is quite possible to plant vegetable beans and sweet corn, to cucumber- dill and corn, radishes will benefit from proximity to watercress, and peas - with leaf mustard.
It has been proven that potatoes and beans, garlic and black currants have a beneficial effect on each other. You can make the following bed: plant parsley, lettuce, and sow garlic between them.
As for the undesirable neighborhood, then can't be planted next to each other potatoes and cucumbers, white cabbage, strawberries and tomatoes, tomatoes and pumpkin. If legumes are placed next to onions, both crops will be suppressed.
