Installation of a gable roof rafter system. Do-it-yourself gable roof for a house: we make a gable roof for a house with a rectangle at its base. Installation instructions for beds, racks, rafters, struts and tie rods

On a variety of buildings you can see a roof with two slopes. They choose it for a reason - it is a relatively simple and comfortable way to build a roof, reliable and beautiful to look at. But there are many subtleties that both builders and customers must take into account when creating it.

Advantages and disadvantages

The stability of the walls and the strength of the foundation, the elegance of the design of the designers can bring joy only in one case - when there is no “drip” from above. Technologists and engineers have put a lot of effort into inventing many roofing options. But in terms of the ratio of pros and cons, the classic pair of stingrays still takes one of the first places. These are two surfaces placed at an angle and having support points on load-bearing walls. The use of a gable roof is equally good for a shopping pavilion, a country cottage, or an ordinary canopy over a car or the entrance to a house.

Rainfall flows down from such a roof almost instantly. The snow doesn't stay on it. And even the wind will not be able to expose the underlying parts of the roofing pie of cabins, sheds, and outbuildings.

Below there can be a comfortable attic or even a full-fledged residential attic with large rooms. Consumers can choose different designs, modify the length of the slopes and the steepness of each of them.

Country houses are equipped with gable roofs most often not only because of their resistance to weather conditions and comfort. The anti-vandal properties of such structures also set them apart from others. Disadvantages are revealed only during the construction of attics. It is necessary to install dormer windows and strengthen the rafters. But even taking these problems into account, this format can still be considered a universal type of roofing.

Varieties

It is important to understand that a gable roof is not something single and monolithic; in fact, this name hides a number of subspecies.

• Traditional symmetrical design(base is an isosceles triangle, slope exactly 45 degrees). It withstands the pressure of snow and rain flows well, but cannot be used for the attic.

• Broken type increases the efficiency of using attic space. At the top the slopes are relatively flat, but at the bottom they are sharply inclined. An inevitable consequence of this choice is the complication of the rafter system.

• Roof without symmetry(such a “double slope” makes it possible to create only an attic of limited area). The main motive when choosing is an extremely unusual appearance.

• Asymmetrical multi-level(with different slopes) roof - in it the ridge is moved away from the center. The roof can serve as a canopy for a veranda or even a terrace located near the house.

Most practically used structures have inclination angles of at least 11 and no more than 45 degrees, because they are the most practical. In dry and warm climates, you can make the roof as flat as possible.

If the frequency and intensity of precipitation are very high, then you will have to build a steeper roof. But again, it has its own weak point - increased susceptibility to wind pressure.

Equipment of different slopes not only increases the area of ​​the attic or attic, but also allows you to make their walls as straight as possible.

Asymmetry, if thought out properly and implemented technically competently, can become an attractive design solution. It has also long been noted that the difference in the parameters of the slopes increases the snow and wind resistance of the house. There is slightly less pressure than usual on the walls, rafters and foundation. And solar panels work much more efficiently on asymmetrical roofs. There is only one minus - the design and work will have to be entrusted to professionals.

Many gable roofs are equipped with dormer windows, which increase the attractiveness of the structure. The image of the house as a whole becomes more cheerful, the building acquires unique features. In a gable roof, windows in the shape of a quadrangle are often installed, although the number of shapes is simply impossible to count. Dormer windows are designed to replace doors for access to the roof during repair, finishing and emergency work, and in case of emergency.

A gable roof with short and long slopes requires the most careful measurement of all parameters and calculation of the necessary properties of the system. A hydraulic level can provide the necessary accuracy.

A roof with three gables is installed mainly on houses made in the shape of a square or rectangle. When equipping an attic, a separate roof is placed on it, and you can choose any type you like, including a broken one. Please note: the presence of three gables allows for enhanced lighting of the attic floor.

Quite a lot of roofs are made with a protrusion - this element helps organize canopies, awnings and cornices. A roof with a valley is equipped in cases where it is necessary to ensure that slopes forming a negative angle are connected to each other.

Such roofs can be made:

• in the shape of a cross;

• in the shape of the letter T;

• in the shape of the letter G.

Preparing a roof plan involves assessing its top view, in this case, all attic and dormer windows and points of connection of surfaces must be taken into account. Reflected in the plan of the roof over the terraces and verandas, for each surface and detail you need to write down the size. The master plan is divided into elementary figures; it must indicate where the main premises and extensions will be located. Only if this condition is met can it be guaranteed that all nodes, valleys, and protrusions will perfectly fulfill their tasks. If the size of the purlins changes, the angle at which the valley slopes is also adjusted.

Where such parts are located, the connecting slopes are covered with a continuous sheathing. When laying out waterproofing, it is recommended to place it in two layers, and then attach the valley to self-tapping screws. When the joints of the part are in a horizontal plane, the overlap is at least 10 cm, and ideally 30 cm. If the slope has only a slight angle of inclination, it is advisable to use an additional layer of waterproofing. A valley with a self-expanding seal is placed under the metal tiles.

A gable roof with a bay window can be quite inexpensive and quite beautiful. This element is placed on a reinforcing belt; to make it, they usually do not put one of the rows of bricks or blocks during construction. The belt will not only support the rafter beams, but will also strengthen the wall and reduce the pressure on the window lintels. The formwork can be made from old boards, and for the reinforcement itself a welded network with 5x5 cm cells is used.

The off-center shape is often chosen due to its increased energy efficiency. This valuable property harmoniously combines with external attractiveness. Architects use a variety of tricks; original designs were especially popular in the middle of the last century. The most radical experiments, of course, did not justify themselves, but solutions in which one slope is directed to the south, and a different angle or length to the north. It is important not to forget in this kind of search that no one has yet canceled the careful calculation of wind and snow loads and the determination of the composition of premises.

The overall level of efficiency of a home, if everything is done correctly, is much higher than that of an ordinary house covered with a standard gable roof. Accurate calculations by the architects showed that if you introduce one angle steeper than 45 degrees, the unused space in the house will sharply decrease.

The original step is to imitate the roof of an ancient Russian tower. Moreover, it is much easier for modern builders than for their predecessors several centuries ago. Mathematics and effective computing programs come to the rescue, allowing you to calculate parameters as accurately as possible.

It is much more pleasant to install an attic under a pitched roof than under a regular one. A semi-dark nook almost right next to the ridge brings joy to few people, especially since sharply inclined slopes and sharp corners located inside and outside do not contribute to visual comfort. Instead of following the lead of designers who creatively play with a simple type of gable roof, it would be more correct to solve the problem radically. Roofing material with cut corners helps to cover those places where it is not possible to lay full sheets or rolls.

A popular type of gable roof is the gable form; it would be more accurate to say that this is an assembly of several roofs, each of which covers individual parts of the house and is mechanically connected to the others. The advantage of this solution is that it allows you to create both dormer windows and balconies. “Pliers” in the terminology of roofers are, of course, not a metal tool with sharp gripping edges, but pediments. The radical complication of the rafter system is justified by its external aesthetic appeal. To imagine what it all looks like, you need to look at any image of an ancient castle.

A gable roof can be not only steep, but also flat. The increased steepness of the slope strengthens the structure and makes its sophisticated strengthening less relevant. The need for lumber is reduced, and therefore overall costs increase. But if in a particular area there is a high probability of storms and hurricanes, or simply strong winds, it is better to choose a more flattened option. At the same time, completely flat roof(inclination angle of 10 degrees or less) is also impractical - caring for it and clearing snow often becomes a painful task.

It is important to consider that when choosing heavyweight finishing materials (corrugated sheeting and metal tiles) it is not recommended to make an angle steeper than 45 degrees. Then conventional fastening will be unable to prevent their rapid sliding along the diagonal slopes. And you will need to strengthen the fasteners and install additional elements. As a result, unnecessary expenses will appear - and this is not one, or even two thousand rubles (if you also take into account the work and complicated design).

You won’t be able to save money on building a completely flat roof either – you will have to create a particularly strong rafter system underneath it.

Device

Once the required level of roof pitch has been assessed, you need to understand its basic elements. And primary attention should be paid to such a detail as the Mauerlat. Builders use this word to describe a stable structure laid around the perimeter of the walls and used to secure the rafters. The Mauerlat ensures that the loads created by the roof overhang are distributed evenly to the limit. It also prevents various mechanical influences from tearing the roofing system away from the walls.

The protective characteristics of the Mauerlat are especially important when it comes to resisting gusts of wind. Some craftsmen and even architects consider it acceptable to construct roofs without this element, with direct connection of the rafters to the ceiling beams. But the simplicity of such a design results in the fact that 100% of the load is collected monolithically on the rafter supports. If everything is done correctly, these impulses are dispersed over a much larger area.

The Mauerlat can be made from:

• I-beam;

• channel;

• softwood timber.

The standard cross-section of the timber in such cases is 80x180, 100x100, 100x150, 150x150 or 200x200 mm. It is very simple to use; you just need to place a beam under the legs of the rafters.

When assessing the quality of wooden raw materials, one cannot ignore knots, which make up 2/3 of the thickness of the tree or more. Such defects threaten not just the release of resin outward, but also a weakening of tensile strength.

A gable roof over a lightweight frame house, which will not have to endure excessive loads, can be placed on a mauerlat made of joined boards. Some developers add steel pipes attached to the ends of the support part. The structures used must have a maximum cross-section that allows them to be passed through the rafter holes. Increased strength is no less important; it is even better to lay it in reserve. And you should not take pipes if you are not sure that they are made of high-quality steel.

The connection of the Mauerlat to the wall is carried out in strict accordance with technology that has been proven over decades. It is extremely rare to refuse reinforced belt. And even if the building itself is strong and stable, it is still necessary. When there are aerated concrete walls below, it is worth spending time laying bricks or pouring plain concrete. These materials are less fragile and will avoid damage to the main part of the wall.

The size of the sealing belt is selected individually, taking into account the level of loads, including variable ones. But its width is always equal to at least the load-bearing walls.

A cornice (eaves overhang) must be present on any roof, and a gable roof is no exception. The purpose of such an element is to block water, which, when precipitation occurs, tends to penetrate into the space under the roof. Importantly, the cornice is one of the finishing elements, and when it is hemmed, the internal components of the rafters are covered.

The frame (box) for the construction of the cornice is made of a flat board that does not contain even single traces of bark and knots. An alternative to the cornice is the use of rafter extensions. You also need to think about covering the gables by at least 50 cm.

For your information: internal organization the cornice on the slope and on the pediment have little in common. If you do not want to delve into such subtleties, it is better to seek help from professionals.

Unlined overhangs have found their main application in the process of working on hip roofs; the hemmed type is most often used in combination with a hip roof with two slopes. The shortened format is compatible with absolutely any type of roofing structure.

The visor also extends beyond the main contour. Such a solution will reliably cover the wall and base from precipitation. It’s easy for people to hide there too: even if the rain pours like a storm, it’s always dry and comfortable under the forward part of the roof.

Calculations by architects and engineers show that a projection of 150 cm allows the wall to remain dry, regardless of the intensity and duration of the rain. But this is not the limit: the technical capabilities of modern builders allow them to build canopies twice as large. Such structures are used mainly as terrace organizers. On the hottest and hottest day, the overhang casts a shadow that protects the plants from the heat. You should not try to make such long visors yourself, the responsibility is too great.

The cross-sectional structure of a gable roof cannot be considered thoroughly studied., if we don’t mention the inclined elements of the rafter system. The slopes have struts that are firmly attached to vertically placed racks. It is not recommended to take boards for rafters with a cross section of less than 5 cm, and the width of the material is determined by its length. When calculating each part, attention is paid to how great the risk of its deflection under the influence of standard load is. An insulated gable roof implies an arrangement of rafter legs that requires a minimum number of cuts on the heat-insulating material.

Materials

Despite the availability of a wide range of roofing materials, a considerable part of developers unconditionally trust structures made from corrugated sheets. No wonder: it is he who combines those two qualities that many centuries have painfully tried to combine - high strength and aesthetic perfection. Russians especially value corrugated sheeting for its resistance to snow and ice, and for the minimal accumulation of solid sediment on the surface. Additionally, choosing blocks of two different colors will help to improve the design characteristics of a roof made of corrugated sheets.

It should be noted that even quickly falling raindrops still make a fair amount of noise. So that those living in the house do not feel like the inhabitants of a giant drum at such moments, they will have to shell out some money to purchase sound insulation. When the clouds go away and the sun comes out, another problem appears - extreme heat. To sunbathe, you need to take with you a lining made of soft fabric and wear shoes everywhere. And if the corrugated sheet is damaged, corrosion will spread inside at amazing speed.

Typical fastening of a sheet involves screwing it to the substrate using 7 - 8 screws. These fasteners are placed in a checkerboard style, so the roof structure is held more firmly. It is prohibited to use nails to attach the corrugated sheeting, otherwise at the first strong wind it will go flying. The skates are pressed with screws to the tops of the corrugation every 3.5 - 4 cm. The ends must be covered with wind strips, screwing in the same screws in increments of 50 cm.

Important: you will have to work very carefully with a gable roof; this is an extremely dangerous type of repair. Even if the slopes are not steep, and the weather forecast indicates complete calm, you cannot climb up without a safety belt tied to stable parts of the buildings. All manipulations with the profiled sheet are performed exclusively with gloves; you cannot press it towards yourself or others.

Prohibited:

• throw damaged sheets from above, even after warning about this (scattering is unpredictable);
• leave the tool unattended;

• touch the profiled sheet and carry out any work with it without special clothing and safety glasses;
• bend sheets.

Gable roofing made of polycarbonate is installed almost exclusively over greenhouses and other secondary buildings. But even this circumstance and the high transparency of polycarbonate do not give the right to take its installation lightly! The advantages of this coating are lightness machining and excellent strength, variety of design elements. The absolute exclusion of corrosion and bacterial contamination will also please you. For installation, you will have to take self-tapping screws of a special type, which are able to compensate for the intense thermal expansion of polycarbonate.

The monolithic type of coating with a thickness of 1.2 cm is recognized as anti-vandal: the impact of a large hammer with great force does not leave visible damage. Resistance to snow and wind will also be a tangible advantage.

The cellular variety cannot boast of such mechanical parameters, but it is much lighter. The rafter frame under both types of polycarbonate is created mainly from wood.

Honeycomb sheets are used for arched and dome structures, and if you need to make an arch of a significant radius, you will have to additionally install:

• supports;
• struts;
• profile stiffeners.

Straight polycarbonate roofs are built over open terraces, gazebos and small garden houses. The rafters for them are made of boards 4 cm thick. It is mandatory to treat the wood with an antiseptic composition and fire retardants. But painting in one way or another is left to the discretion of the homeowners themselves.

Much more often than from polycarbonate, roofs are built from wooden beams. The most popular sizes of its blocks are 5, 8, 7-meter options. It is logical to use similar structures on houses that are generally made of timber - this will ensure perfect combination. It must be remembered that the high mechanical stability of such a material does not mean that it is permissible to load it with excess weight. Therefore, the first step when calculating a structure is to find out what the level of overloads may be. The side beams are pulled together on the top row - due to this, the pressure from the rafter joists is reduced.

The screed will have to be made in pieces measuring 15x10 cm. Siding is also used in finishing gable roofs (more precisely, their gables). Metal profiles are actively used as the main finishing material. When choosing it, you need to check the ratio of the width of the bottom shelves and the ridge (if the ridge is smaller, the water flow will be more active). You should also evaluate how correctly the side gutters are positioned and whether they are broken. Another important point– marking: the profile for walls and fences is not suitable for riding work.

When working with a gable roof, it is imperative to use additional elements.

When metal tiles are used, they solve three main problems at once:

• formation of a single whole instead of isolated blocks;
• prevention of penetration of moisture and foreign substances into the gaps of profile sheets;
• improving the decorative qualities of the coating.

The most important detail modern tiled roofing is a ridge strip, which ensures the joining of slopes directed at an angle to each other. If there is no such strip, they are in different planes and a gap appears through which precipitation and wind can penetrate. On metal tiles, skates are most often placed in the form of a semicircle with a radius of 7-12.5 cm. A more universal solution is to use a trapezoidal or figured structure. In the last two cases, you can extend the wing by 15-30 cm, focusing on the shape of the roof and the slope of the slopes; The skate itself has a length of 200 cm in any configuration.

In addition to the ridge, you will need other parts to help complete the construction of the upper roof assembly. Plank caps (flat, conical or tent-shaped) are used exclusively for semicircular ridges. With their help, birds are blocked from visiting the under-roof space and it is possible to avoid its clogging.

The sealing underlay under the metal tiles helps ensure that the profile is pressed particularly tightly against the base of the roof. Thanks to this, both rattling sounds and the penetration of water into the under-roof space are excluded.

On a sloping gable roof, valley strips must be used, placed in negative angles. They will receive precipitation flowing from nearby slopes and direct it into the drain. The internal strip is placed under metal tiles or other profile sheets. The outer one is placed on an already formed roof, and this part must be elegant in appearance - otherwise it will not fulfill its function. The end or wind strip usually looks like a profile sheet bent in length; it is attached to the ends of the gable units.

Kapelnik and cornice strip are closely interconnected and act as additional parts of the drainage system. The adhesive strips provide a connection between the roof covering and the elements protruding beyond its contour. Even if there are no chimneys, there will definitely be antennas, intersections with walls, and so on. In Russian conditions it will not be possible to do without snow guards. Saving on any roofing components results in serious losses.

A metal roof with lightning protection is the only practical option. Protection against lightning is achieved by using special receivers lightning discharges, made using pin or cable technology. It is advisable to consult with specialists to ensure reliable electrical contact of the roof along its entire length. The rafter system as a whole and each wooden fragment individually are always treated with fire-resistant reagents. The costs of such treatment are relatively low, and it allows you to minimize the likelihood of a roof fire.

Gable roofs are often created from profile pipes.

For the most part, such elements are awnings over:

• car parking place;
• outdoor recreation area and barbecue;
• swimming pool;
• terrace.

The pipe allows you to create an impeccably strong frame, and a corrugated sheet or polycarbonate is mounted on it. It is recommended to choose a flat piece of soil as a working platform. Covering the area with concrete or tiles will improve the decorative qualities, and placing it on an elevated area will help eliminate drainage problems.

The cross-section of the profile pipe is determined by how significant the structure is formed. If you take a 6x6 cm profile, it will no longer support canopies wider than 4 m and longer than 6 m. It is not at all necessary to choose round pipes for columns - if the parts are connected at right angles, square blocks will be even more practical. In addition to bolts and welding, clamps and threads can be used to mechanically connect parts. Do-it-yourself dyeing is no worse than branded dyeing, but 30-40% cheaper.

Some home craftsmen and even professionals believe that it would be best to cover the attic roof with clapboard. The advantages of this material are its environmental Safety, comfortable price and excellent appearance.

Cedar wood has an excellent visual texture, in addition, it is also extremely beneficial for health.

Solid pine is strong and reliable, somewhat cheaper than cedar blanks.

It is also worth considering pine, oak, spruce or larch - each of these options has its own advantages.

Dimensions

Calculating the height of the roof is very important, and if you make a mistake in determining the dimensions of the ridge, you may encounter problems during use.

Whether the roof will be low or large depends on many subtleties and nuances:

• climatic parameters of the area;
• organization of the attic under the roof or its absence;
• type of laying material.

The heavier the coating being created, the steeper its installation should be. As the size of a single element decreases, the ridge rises higher. But we must not forget that raising the ridge inevitably entails costs, and the amount of costs increases rapidly. Residential attic or actively used attic sanitary standards cannot be less than 150 cm in height and 120 cm in length. An exception is made only for very complex structures.

The gable roof is very popular, since its construction is considered a relatively simple and quick stage in the construction of a house. Different types of gable roofing allow you to choose the appropriate option for a specific building. Installing such a roofing structure will not be difficult if you have even a little experience in construction, but, of course, you cannot do it alone. All work is carried out in stages, taking into account the characteristics of such a roof.

Peculiarities

When erecting a gable roof, a rafter system and the main parts of the roof structure are installed. This includes the frame (in the form of rafters with struts), the Mauerlat. They are made from high-quality wood - beams 150x150 mm and boards with a section of 50x150 mm. Gable roofs of a symmetrical type with straight slopes (gable roofing) are considered traditional. The angle of inclination of the slopes of such a roof reaches 45 degrees, which avoids loads on the structure (for example, during snowfalls and wind).

Other types of gable roofing, for example, with broken slopes, allow you to equip an attic under the roof. In this case, the slopes on top of the roof are more gentle slopes, and on the bottom - with a sharp slope. A sloping gable roof should be erected on a more complex and robust construction. When constructing an asymmetrical roof, the roof ridge is offset from the center. This is done taking into account the design features of the building.

Kinds

The frame structure of a gable roof can be:

• layered;
• hanging.

It is characteristic that most buildings use a layered rafter system, inside of which there is load-bearing walls. The frame thus serves as an intermediate support. When the roof width is no more than 10 m, one support is usually used. A roof more than 10 m wide has several proportionally located supports. A frame in the form of a hanging type rafter system is possible in the case when the structure can get by with one support and without internal load-bearing walls. Such a roof is built from two belts - the upper (two rafters), the lower (rigidly connected puffs). The rafters rest on the mauerlat, and the ends of the rafters go to the outer walls.

A gable sloping roof can be reinforced in the form of support frames that prevent the sloping roof from sagging. This way you can get a more durable structure. Hanging sloping roof has additional support frames to which the attic walls are installed. The support frame, which is located under load-bearing wall inside, it takes on part of the load, which makes the roof structure slightly lighter.

Device

The design of a gable roof is characterized by the presence of inclined surfaces on both sides. The roof base area has a rectangular surface. The slopes prevent snow and melt water from collecting on the roof. The roof is naturally cleaned. The roof consists of structural units: a mauerlat, a rafter system, a ridge and filly, roof overhangs, struts, tie-rods, sheathing and racks. It is worth understanding what characterizes all the structural elements of a gable roof.

Mauerlat is necessary for proper distribution of the load on the load-bearing walls from the rafters. For this purpose, durable wood is usually chosen - timber (it can be oak, larch, pine). The choice of beam cross-section is determined by the type of wood (solid or glued). For example, 100 by 100 mm or 150 by 150 mm. It is worth noting that when choosing a metal rafter system, the mauerlat must also be made of metal.

The main element of a gable roof system is the rafter leg. These elements are made from durable timber and logs. When connecting the rafter leg from above, a truss is formed with different types intermediate support. The rafter parameters and structural components play an important role here.

Tightening is necessary to connect the rafter system (rafter leg) and to impart strength and the necessary rigidity to the structure.

There are two types of purlins: ridge purlin, in which installation is carried out at the junction of the rafters (the ridge of the roof is then installed in this place), and side purlin, which provides the roofing elements (truss) with additional rigidity (the size and number of such purlins will depend on the load on the structure ).

Rafter supports in the form of vertical beams also take on a significant part of the load from the roof. The rack for the rafters of a gable roof is usually located in the center. If the width of the span is greater than usual, then also on the sides. When constructing an asymmetrical roof, the racks are placed depending on the length of the rafters. For a sloping roof, the installation of racks is carried out on the sides, leaving free space. If you plan to have two rooms under the roof, then the rafter racks are placed in the center and on the sides.

Struts are supports for racks. When braced at an angle of more than 45 degrees, the roof is better protected from deformation (snow, wind). Depending on the climatic zone, both longitudinal and diagonal struts can be installed with a pair of rafters on the same plane.

The bench serves as a reliable support for the racks. This is where the strut is attached.

Lathing is necessary to secure materials and structural elements roofs. The sheathing is installed perpendicular to the rafter legs. One of the important purposes of the sheathing is to redistribute the load from the roof to the rafter system.

Requirements for building materials

The choice of materials for the rafter system is an important step in preparing for the installation of a roof structure. When calculating the material for a gable roof, you must proceed from the fact that it must be high-quality wood, the material does not have knots, damage or wormholes, is well processed and impregnated special compounds(for safety and reliability during operation). For the reliability of the structure, there must be a stable connection between the elements of the entire rafter system. The roof must be a durable structure made from modern high-quality materials.

Wood species such as larch, cedar, spruce or pine are easy to process, so they are most often used in the rafter system. The rafters are made of timber with a width of 10 to 15 cm and a thickness of 5 cm. In this case, aged timber is usually used, which will not change shape after the roofing is installed. This is necessary to increase the stability of the structure. In addition to timber, boards are used for rafters, especially if we're talking about about raising the roof of a private house.

In multi-story construction, metal rafters are used. The disadvantage of a metal rafter system for private housing construction is that such a structure is not capable of retaining heat. Wood has more advantages in this regard - the material is distinguished by a high degree of thermal insulation and energy saving. Wood is distributed by grade. First-class material goes into creating hanging rafters and puffs. Racks and struts are made from both first and second grade materials.

Projects and drawings

In the process of planning a gable roof, a drawing is prepared. This is a diagram of the future structure, where there are slopes, a pediment, and a ridge. Essentially, the plan is a drawing with detailed elements in different projections, showing how to tie the rafters. Drawing up a drawing of a gable roof is carried out taking into account all stages of work.

Its construction scheme includes:

• beams for sheathing;
• beams and rafters;
• scheme for laying thermal and waterproofing;
• roofing layout layout;
• installation diagram of additional fasteners;
• installation drawing of a ventilation system and chimney.

A well-designed roofing plan will reduce the cost of purchasing building materials. To create a project of any type, one or another type of material is used, based on calculations and taking into account the reliability of the coating. The size of the roof covering is also taken into account. When drawing, a part of the rafter system must be indicated, which allows you to understand how maximum the load on the roof can be.

The plan also includes:

• storm drain plan (storm sewer of a certain length);
• slope connection elements;
• construction area;
• diagram of roof junction points (pressure profile).

The design diagram must clearly indicate the type of roof. Detailed details in the diagram will allow you to complete the work faster and better.

Drawing up a diagram

Depending on the characteristics of the roof (single or gable, shape, etc.), design documentation is drawn up.

This work takes place in several stages:

• a sketch of the future roof is drawn up (at this stage the drawing should have a finished appearance of the roof with elaboration of the style design of the building);
• the main roofing elements are being worked out (the drawing shows the degree of load and the amount of materials);
• The diagram shows the construction of the roof.

It is worth considering that differences in pitched structures are associated with the type of rafters(hanging or layered), with uneven angles of inclination, with the dimensions of the overhang of the cornice. It is also worth considering design errors. One of the most common of them is considered to be an error in calculating the consumption of materials for the entire complex. The process of drawing up drawing diagrams is best left to specialists. The roof structure is erected in accordance with accepted building codes. In addition, it is important to minimize possible mistakes and defects. So, if the choice of roof type and installation method are chosen incorrectly, this will cause the roof structure to collapse. If the slope is incorrectly drawn and constructed, there is a risk of increasing the load on the roof. Although mistakes are made in the design of ventilation elements. The drawing itself should not be complicated, however, the rules for installing all roofing elements must be followed, and accordingly, they must be spelled out. A professionally executed roof plan increases the safety of the structure.

Calculation

The importance of calculating the rafter system of a gable roof cannot be underestimated. During the design process, it is necessary to calculate the usable area and, based on the data obtained, decide how high the vertical posts will be. In this case, several factors come into play.

When erecting a roof structure, it is important to calculate the maximum load on the roof of the house, on all rafters and beams. It may be necessary to strengthen the rafters, then adjustments are made to the project. For example, it may be necessary to use additional pads or timber with a larger cross-section than planned. The weight of the entire rafter system is also important. In this case, the calculation is carried out taking into account not only the cross-section of the lumber, but also the density and moisture content of the wood, and the pitch distance between the rafters is determined.

Today there is a special classification of loads on the roofing system:

1. The main load concerns the weight truss structure, load temperature, snow and other weather factors.
2. An additional burden concerns calculations of the influence of wind and ice.
3. Force majeure loads are associated with man-made circumstances (a modern roof must withstand everything).

Limit calculations of the rafter system, taking into account all loads, are constructed according to two criteria (limits or states): the limit at which destruction of the structure is possible, and the limit at which the probability of deformation and deflections is taken into account.

Slope

It is important to correctly calculate the angle of inclination of the slopes. At standard width in a house 6-8 m high, the angle of the slopes is 45 degrees, but this is not enough for the space in the attic. With a tilt angle of 60 degrees, the structure will cost more, but the entire roof will be designed more successfully. At 45 degrees of inclination, you can choose any roofing materials. If the gable roof is initially planned to be asymmetrical, then you can easily arrange a residential attic in the attic space, but for this you need to calculate the usable area. A standard gable roof is usually selected. It is important to take into account the load on the roof due to wind and snow. As the angle of inclination of the slopes increases, the consumption of materials will also increase. But also performance characteristics such a roof will compare favorably. If you plan to build a gable roof with unequal slope angles, then all work can be done in the original design. However, when designing, it is better to start from the classic design in the form of a symmetrical roof with an isosceles triangle at the base.

Step

The pitch of the rafters used to create the roof is one of the fundamental ones in the construction of the structure. There is a dependence of the pitch of the rafter system on roofing material. The latter is used corrugated sheeting, slate, soft roofing or metal tiles.

Slate roofing is used everywhere. This roofing material is characterized by relative strength, low cost and resistance to temperature changes. However, the material has a certain weight, so it is necessary to provide the roof with a powerful rafter system. It is worth considering that for a slate roof there must be at least three points of support (in the center and along the edges).

In recent years, metal tiles have become quite widespread among roofing materials. The material is easy to install and has an attractive appearance. Metal roofing sheets are convenient to use because they are light in weight. In this regard, the distance between the rafters can be large (for example, 600-950 mm with sectioned timber 150x50 mm).

The corrugated sheet covering can be made of galvanized steel sheet with a special protective coating (from external weather influences). Modern corrugated sheets differ in color and corrugation width. Externally, this coating differs in design. The pitch between the rafters under the corrugated sheet will depend on the type of profile, the angles of inclination and the configuration of the roof. For the rafter system in this case, timber with a cross section of 50-75 mm is used. This can be a board 20-50 mm wide.

Tools

When installing a rafter system, a set of tools is required. For this purpose, they usually make do with traditional tools - a power saw (this can be a hacksaw), a hammer and screwdrivers. Sheathing the roof with metal sheets is done with special metal shears. Do not cut material with polymer coating a simple grinder so as not to damage upper layer with sheet protection. Otherwise, the casing will quickly rust. To cover the roof with roofing felt, you need a barrel in which the bitumen will be melted.

Undoubtedly, when performing installation and any construction work You can’t do without a reliable ladder. It's also worth thinking about your own equipment. For example, when working, shoes with non-slip soles are required.

Installation

It is better to do the installation of a gable roof rafter system yourself with help, and many structural elements cannot be installed alone. Installation of the rafter system is carried out in several stages.

Let's look at them step by step:

• First you need to make a template. Rafter trusses are assembled according to a template. So, you need to take two boards the same length as the rafter leg. They are attached to each other from the edges with one nail. The result is a “scissors” design.
• This structure, with its other edges, must be placed in those places where there are supports for the rafter legs. The angle obtained in this way (according to the slope of the roof slope) is fixed with several nails. Fastening the corners must be done on an additional crossbar between the boards.

• Next, another template is prepared. With its help you can further assemble the structure. Installation of cuts on the rafters is being carried out. The template itself is easier to make from plywood.
• The cuts are cut on the rafters using a template. The elements are connected at an angle of inclination of the slope. The finished triangle is the roof truss. It is lifted onto the roof and attached to the Mauerlat (this will require logs and ladders).
• The rafter system is fastened to the mauerlat using nails, staples, and corners. And wooden “shorts” help to secure the structure from displacement along the axis; they need to be positioned over the entire area.
• At the initial stage, two gable trusses are installed along the edges. Installation and correct fixation horizontally and vertically is carried out using temporary struts to which the structure is attached.

• For reliability and convenience, a cord is stretched along the edges (between the tops of the trusses). It must be secured in such a way as to mark the place for the future skate. You will also need a cord when installing intermediate rafters.
• At the next stage, the remaining trusses are lifted and installed (at a certain distance (usually 0.6 m) from each other).
• In the presence of bulky structures, if there is a need to strengthen the structure, they are strengthened with crossbars, struts and supports.
• The purlin (ridge beam) is placed on special supports. Rafters of various types (short, intermediate or diagonal) are then attached to it.

The basis of the frame is the Mauerlat. Its production and assembly forms the basis of the roofing structure.

Mauerlat fasteners

The frame structure of rafters is fixed to the floor beams. However, in this case, the load on the rafter structure is distributed at the points where the beams are attached. This approach to installing roofing structures is possible for small and light buildings. Mauerlat is needed to evenly distribute the roof load in the upper part of the walls. The Mauerlat is mounted parallel to the ridge of the future roof. This is how the main frame is formed. The manufacture of the Mauerlat requires a wooden beam with a section of 150x150, 100x100 or 100x150 mm.

Are you already at the finish line in building your dream home, and it’s time to understand the intricacies of the rafter system? Let's just say: pleasant worries await you: calculating the angle, weight and safety factor of the rafters, an agreement with a familiar craftsman or company, or preparing all the necessary tools for independent carpentry work.

And so that tomorrow all these worries do not become a headache and you do not worry about whether this or that knot is being done correctly, we have prepared this article for you. So, let's figure out how to make high-quality rafters for a gable roof with your own hands so that it is no worse than purchased ones.

• Short production times.
• Technological precision of all details.
• Identical, already adjusted dimensions of all structural elements.

But then be prepared for the following disadvantages:

• High cost (at least twice as much as if you planed the rafters yourself).
• Delay in delivery (especially during the season).
• Using low-quality or under-dried wood (and then the roof will “sink”).

So convenience or quality? If this is not your first time carving or planing something out of wood, feel free to take on making rafters! Here's what it all looks like in real life:

In the construction world, in simple language, rafters are usually divided into the main ones, i.e. load-bearing ones, on which the roof is supported, and auxiliary ones, which are located inside the roof and serve as support for hemming the ceiling and walls of the attic (if one is planned). The strength and reliability of the future roof depends on how accurately and correctly you calculate the rafter system in advance.

The rafter system of any gable roof itself consists of the following basic elements that you need to make:

• Mauerlat.
• Vertical racks.
• Crossbars.
• Rafter legs.
• Spacers.
• Ridge run.

It is better to entrust complex roofing structures with multiple elements to a professional, but you can handle a small roof of a private house. To do this, you will need these simple formulas that will help you find out how thick the rafters should be, with what slope and what span:

How to draw up a project for a future roof?

The golden rule in roof construction is to measure seven times and cut only once. And first of all, it is important for you to understand that each rafter leg has its own individual location. Therefore, first be sure to compose detailed project, and better in a special program. Only after this, using your 3D model of the future roof, mark exactly where and what kind of connections the rafters will have with the Mauerlat and with each other.

It is important to determine as accurately as possible the angle of inclination of the rafters and at what angle they need to be cut. And don’t worry about how to make all these rafters for a gable roof yourself: all you need is a regular machine.

Determining the angle of inclination of the roof: calculating the loads

The angle of inclination of a gable roof is made from 5° to 90°. But the most proven and standard option is 35°-40°, where loads are distributed most rationally and building materials are consumed.

Straight slopes are built when in the future there will be only a non-residential attic under the roof, the main function of which is ventilation and regulation of heat exchange. But when the under-roof space is planned to be residential, attic, they initially plan a so-called sloping gable roof. Its difference is that the slopes in the middle have a kind of kink, which changes their angle to a steeper one. This design is quite suitable both for arranging an attic and for protecting the entire house from bad weather.

Please note that most roofing materials are only suitable for pitches greater than 45°.

Constant and variable roof loads

The same loads determine what rafter pitch you need for your gable roof. This table will help you choose the right section of rafter legs:

Indicators of rafters for deflection

Even strong-looking rafters may not be suitable for constructing the roof of a residential building due to the fact that they have insufficient deflection properties. There are separate paragraphs in the SNiP section called “Loads and Impacts”.

And the easiest way to increase the deflection strength of rafters is to make the cross-section larger. It’s a little more difficult to strengthen it with a special beam, bringing its edge to the strut.

Reinforcing elements for rafters

The more racks, struts and contractions, the more durability and stability the entire rafter system has.

If you have a suspicion or even an accurate estimate that a simple roof structure will not withstand future loads, make additional reinforcements for it. Such prevention will never hurt, but it will save you from many problems. Note that it is especially offensive when the garage roof falls in - right on top of the car. And such problems are not a joy for a residential building.

The rigidity of the rafter structure is enhanced by struts, additional purlins and support posts. The braces are designed to reduce the span of the rafter legs. Their angle of inclination to the horizontal is usually at least 45°.

A purlin is a horizontal beam that is parallel to the ridge and secured to vertical posts. More details in the video:

Determining the type of roof: cold or warm?

And now about the concept of the attic. If you are building a roof for a bathhouse or a small utility room, it can be done using the most simplified technology - install rafters, connect them at the ridge and cover them with sheets of roofing felt. But for the roof of a residential building, where ventilation is important, this principle cannot be used. There will already be at least three levels:

1. The upper or first level of the rafters is about 200 mm.
2. The average one is always equal in height to the auxiliary rafters.
3. The third one is already on the edge of the wall.

This makes it convenient to lay insulation, because the roof of a residential building is characterized by the fact that heat rises upward even in the absence of thermal insulation roof covering constantly heats up.

The result: in winter, the snow melts and slides down, freezing and accumulating even more at the cold cornice. This causes a lot of problems: long dangerous icicles, a clogged drainage system, and the gradual destruction of the entire roof. Decide for yourself!

Determine the type of rafter system: layered or hanging?

So, now is the time to think about the support bases for future rafters, which also need to be prepared in advance and on which many parameters of the roof itself will depend. Thus, rafters are divided into layered, hanging and hybrid.

Hanging rafters are usually the lot of small and light roofs, the distance between the supports does not exceed 6 meters. But in buildings with a load-bearing middle wall or additional supports, layered rafters are installed to strengthen the roof. Or like this combined option:

Another difference is that the hanging rafter system forces the Mauerlat to work in compression, while the layered rafter system works for shear. But the main task of both layered and hanging rafters is to transfer the loads of the entire roof to the walls and foundation as evenly as possible.

Selecting material for rafters

So, if you have decided on future loads, it’s time to choose the right material. The following are usually used for making rafters:

• Wood. Solid wood, boards or laminated veneer lumber.
• Lightweight metallic profile. We are talking about galvanized steel profiles.
• Black metal. These are I-beams and steel channels.
• Heavy reinforced concrete structures for industrial construction.

Dry board: economical option

If large loads are not expected on the rafter system, then make the rafters from dry planed boards with a small cross-section. But if knee-deep snow is not uncommon in your area and the roofing material is not light, then you will have to make some of the component elements glued. That's the whole difference.

It is most convenient to make elongated side rafters and diagonal rafter legs from the board. So, a 40 mm thick board, which is often used for outbuildings, is not suitable for a roof. At least 50 mm! Moreover, the longer the rafter leg is planned, the wider the board itself should be. So, rafters 6 meters long will have to be made from boards 150 mm wide, and even longer ones - from boards 180 mm wide.

For the roof of a frame house, this is truly one of the best options!

And also rafters made from boards are the most economical, and at the same time they are almost as strong as lumber. It is only important to choose the right section and use quality material. Therefore, when purchasing material, be sure to take with you a special device for measuring wood moisture content and use it. There is nothing worse than damp rafters. And it’s not just a matter of future mold: such a roof will begin to warp and warp, because this material changes its shape when it dries. The fastenings at the rafters will fly off and even the covering of your gable roof will bounce off in places. In a word, there will be no problems!

But it is most convenient to splice rafters along the length from a regular board:

Durable metal: resists moisture

And, you will be interested to know that rafters can be made not only from wood! Thus, iron rafter systems, which were once used exclusively for industrial construction, are regaining their former popularity today. And, let us note, this roofing material has many advantages, the most valuable of which is the complete absence of fungus from dampness. After all, the space under the roof most often “pleases” with random leaks.

And the work itself with such rafters during installation is no more difficult than with wooden ones - see for yourself:

Beams: the benefits of high-quality wood

The beam is more durable, but the disadvantage is that it has a lot of weight and you have to make cuts in the fastening areas. For the log this is not only a problem, but also some loss bearing capacity such a rafter leg. But so far this material is the most popular for making rafters.

Most suitable for the manufacture of rafters is lumber that meets the requirements of GOST 8486-86 or 2695-83. And this:

• Humidity no more than 18%, measured with a moisture meter.
• Cracks that are not through and do not exceed half the length of the board.
• For each linear meter– no more than three knots, and each of them is no more than 30 mm in diameter.

Therefore, when purchasing wood for rafters, be sure to check the documents from the seller, which indicate the quality of the product.

The type of wood is also important. The fewer knots and cracks there are on the beams, the better. Some varieties also boast good moisture resistance and resistance to rot and pests. For the roof this is what you need. Therefore, we recommend making rafters from coniferous wood, which is rich in resin, and resin is a natural barrier against rotting. But special processing is still needed.

And also take into account this fact: when manufacturing a rafter system, you need to purchase 5-7% more material than necessary, because it will not always be possible to make an ideal rafter cut or notch of the required depth. There will still be overspending, so stock up on it in advance so that you have wood of the same moisture content and properties for the entire rafter system.

Otherwise, if you had to purchase some individual roof elements separately, they may take longer to dry (wood always dries), or vice versa. The distortions can be considerable, i.e. the entire roof frame will be constantly exposed to different physical forces of tension and pressure. Any experienced roofer will tell you how bad this is and what it entails. Therefore, take more material for making rafters than you plan. If everything goes smoothly, there will be something to use to make the first bench in front of the new house.

Treatment with antiseptics and propylents

And at this stage it is already important to protect the future rafter system from biological destruction. You don’t want your roof to collapse after a couple of years of use, do you? Therefore, be sure to treat the wood for the rafters with fire and bioprotection.

The rafters are usually impregnated with an antiseptic and then treated with a fire retardant on top. You can also alternate this processing several times. If you use universal impregnation, know that it usually contains products with for different periods services. For example, fire protection will end before bio.

But the choice of means for processing today is huge. These include universal protective agents, a variety of fire retardants, and antiseptics. It’s easy to decide: if you are building in a fairly hot and dry area, first of all use fireproofing impregnations, which deprive the wood of its natural flammability. And if your house is located where the air humidity is almost high all year round– protect from rotting.

You can, of course, use both drugs - but just do not mix, otherwise the whole material will deteriorate. You just need to choose one product as an impregnation, and the second as a protective surface layer. Just try to dilute everything in the concentration indicated by the manufacturer. But do not treat frozen or damp wood with anything: its fibers simply will not absorb anything.

Video tip on the topic of processing rafters:

Note that a brush or spray when processing rafters gives little result - complete immersion and subsequent drying are much better. Just use a regular container, cover it with film from the inside and make a “bathtub” for future rafters. Moreover, it is advisable to do all this on the ground, as soon as you bring the material to the site, because in the finished rafter system it will be difficult to reach the internal elements of the connections. And they are the most defenseless in terms of moisture penetration. After processing, dry the parts so that all sides are ventilated for at least 24 hours.

Do not forget also that wood, like any natural material, is subject to biological destruction. Therefore, in addition to fire-bio-protection, it is important to consider waterproofing in all places where the rafter system adjoins the brick walls of the house, if any.

Making the correct cuts on the rafters

Now let's move on to practice. First of all, you definitely need to make a convenient template according to which you will make even, identical rafters:

And follow these instructions:

You will have to tinker with the rigid mount:

If we are talking about moving units, then follow this principle:

In practice, everything is actually simple:

As you can see, the eyes are afraid, but the hands do!

How to assemble a rafter system?

Finally, the rafters are ready, and you can start installing them.

Build on the ground or on the roof?

So, in reality, everything is quite simple and somewhat similar to a children's construction set. The easiest and most convenient way is to make trusses directly on the ground, and only then raise them. It is a little more difficult to assemble the rafters directly on the roof, but it is easier to lift them there. This is where you start: if you have the opportunity (a crane, for example) to drag 200 kg of one truss onto the roof - drag it, if not - lift each individual rafter 50 kg using improvised means and do the assembly on the spot.

So, first of all, for convenience, make a template according to which you will assemble the roof trusses, and another template for mounting cuts on the rafters (use plywood). All you have to do is cut out mounting cuts on the rafters, attaching a template, and connect them together at a certain angle. This triangle is called a roof truss.

Attention to strength - rules for increasing length

If the thickness or length of the board is not enough to make a normal rafter leg, extend the rafters. And there are several ways:

1. Connect the boards together by folding them with their wide sides and stitching them with nails.
2. Lay the boards half the length, resulting in a particularly strong rafter leg that can withstand considerable loads.
3. Make an oblique cut at the ends to create a vertical anti-slip stop, and connect with a bolt.
4. Lay two overlapping boards a meter long, connecting the rafters with pins or nails.

Also keep in mind when calculating that the roof ridge accounts for about 50% of the load of the entire rafter system. Therefore, always make a ridge beam so that its safety margin is at least 25% greater than originally calculated.

And the most vulnerable parts of the rafter structures are the lower ones, those that rest on the Mauerlat.

Preparing roof trusses

Fasten rafters needed using:

• External straight bracket.
• Metal corner plate.
• Internal metal rod.

You can also connect such rafters with studs - this will even be stronger. To do this, instead of making a cut, we now make a cut into half the tree and connect the rafters with a ledge. Next, drill a hole for a 12-14 mm stud and secure it with nuts and wide washers.

Let's start with a review of proven old-fashioned methods:

Here's how they work:

When assembling a hanging type truss, you need to connect the upper ends of the rafter legs. To do this, cut the end of each at exactly the same angle at which you are making the roof, connect the beams with cut planes and secure with two nails. Cover the joint with a wooden cover or metal plate.

Another useful master class:

Lifting and installation of finished trusses

Already on the roof, first of all, you need to start by installing those rafters that form the two outer trusses of the gable roof (they are also called gable). To further secure them, install temporary struts. Next, stretch a strong cord between the outermost peaks of the trusses, which will become a level for the intermediate rafters.

Now we lift and place all the remaining trusses at a distance of at least 0.6 meters from each other. Again, if some of your structures turn out to be quite cumbersome, support them with the same temporary supports.

The rest is a matter of technique:

Erection of the roof is one of the most critical stages of building a house. To the most simple designs These include gable roofs with straight slopes. If you decide that you will build a gable roof with your own hands, then you need to carefully read step by step instructions and video. The functional parameters of the roof also depend on proper insulation, characteristics and quality of installation of the finishing coating.

Preparatory stage

To determine the configuration and size of the roof, it is necessary to take into account the snow and wind loads in the existing climatic conditions - the smaller the angle of inclination, the better the structure can withstand the loads. But the small angle of inclination (40 degrees or less) does not allow full use of the attic space.

The shape and structure of the roof are developed in accordance with the design plan of the house: the key support points of the roof truss system must coincide with the lines and locations of the load-bearing structures of the underlying floor. Thus, it is necessary to take into account the width of the house and the presence of a longitudinal load-bearing wall in the center. If the attic is not planned to be used as an additional usable area for permanent or seasonal residence, you can make a reliable roof with layered rafters. In this case, the rafters are attached to the ridge girder, which is supported by racks resting on the internal load-bearing wall.

Hanging rafters - the most practical and economical option for light buildings. In this case, the rafter legs are connected in pairs with crossbars - horizontal jumpers that provide the necessary rigidity of the structure. The hanging rafter system rests on the side walls of the structure.

If the width of the house exceeds 6 meters, in addition to the crossbars, which act as the basis for the ceiling, purlins and racks are installed. The purlin is a horizontal beam that acts as an additional support for the rafters that form the roof slope. Installation of the purlin requires the use of racks. The racks, in turn, rest on the beds - a special beam laid along the slope. The beds and racks serve as the frame of the walls of the attic room. This layered design allows you to create an attic or spacious attic for household needs with your own hands.

If you need to build a simple and reliable roof, a gable structure with a slope of 45-50° is optimal. This rafter system is suitable for installation on residential buildings and buildings for various purposes. When calculating materials, it is necessary to take into account that the rafter system must be light enough to avoid excessive load on the foundation, but at the same time strong. The cross-section of lumber should be selected based on the dimensions of the rafter structure.

Mauerlat installation

Let's look at a step-by-step method of building a roof with layered rafters and an attic space with your own hands. At the first stage, installation is carried out on the longitudinal walls of the house top harness- Mauerlat. The strapping takes on the pressure of the entire roofing system and transmits it evenly building structures– walls and foundation.

The Mauerlat is made of timber (section from 50×150 to 150×150 mm), treated with special protective equipment to protect against rotting and fire.

Mauerlat can be made in various ways:

• Rolled wire is embedded into the brickwork, through which the beam is fixed to the wall (the wire is threaded through specially made holes and twisted tightly);
• Long metal pins with a diameter of 12 mm or more are embedded in the masonry;
• At the top of the wall there is a monolithic concrete beam with embedded steel studs.

The studs should be spaced at intervals of no more than 120 mm. The height of the protruding end of the fastening element should be 20-30 mm higher than the total thickness of the waterproofing and the timber in which holes should be made in advance. The beam is put on the studs and tightened tightly with nuts and wide washers.

Construction of the rafter system

The rafter system, which you can make with your own hands, consists of a number of elements combined into a single whole. The A-shaped rafter truss is a rigid structure that works “for expansion”. If the roof construction is carried out on timber house, opposite walls should be strengthened with ties made of 100x150 mm timber at the level of the ceiling beams. This is done to prevent the walls from moving apart under load.

On ceiling floors are laid - additional elements made of timber 150×150 mm or more, which serve as support for the racks and redistribute the point load on the floor surface. Laying the beds with your own hands should be done along the lines of the walls of the future attic space. If the attic is not planned to be used, the bed can be laid directly under the ridge for installation support posts. If necessary, you can splice the timber, but only in places where the joint will lie on the beam. The tenon joint is strengthened with a bracket or metal plate.

Repeating parts of the rafter system should be made completely identical to each other in order to build an isosceles gable roof, the weight of which will be distributed evenly even under atmospheric loads. For this purpose, templates of identical parts are made with your own hands.

50x150 mm boards are laid out on the floor of the house, a triangle of the required height is made from two rafter legs and a stand board (its length corresponds to the height of the future roof), connected with a nail. Two or three people lift the structure - the stand is installed on the central axis of the ceiling, the rafters are installed on the mauerlat.

In the process of preparing the template, you can lengthen the elements by varying the height of the roof and choosing the most suitable option.

Having decided on the dimensions, it is necessary to make curly cuts on the rafters at the points of their contact with the strapping. The rafter leg should rest firmly on the mauerlat. There are a number of fastening methods; you should choose the most convenient and reliable one; it is advisable to use metal pads. The intricacies of the technology can be found in the video. The resulting rafter structure subsequently acts as a template, and the support board helps control the height of the installed trusses.

Gable

The pediment is a continuation of the wall, limited by the roof slopes. If a gable roof is provided, the gables of the house have the shape of a triangle. When installing a truss structure, the outer trusses are installed first, which later serve as the frame for the gables. It is necessary to strictly check the verticality of the structures and ensure that they have the same height. A ridge girder is attached to the upper part of the gables, to which the remaining rafter structures are subsequently mounted.

Usually the gables are sewn up after the roofing work is completed, but this can be done at an earlier stage. Installation of boards 50×100 or 50×150 mm is carried out in a vertical or horizontal direction. The pediment, which you can build with your own hands, is often equipped with windows.

It is also necessary to provide for insulation of the gables.

Roof insulation and roof installation

A sheathing is placed on the rafter system, the pitch of which is calculated based on the characteristics of the roofing material - its size and rigidity, and installation method. If flexible materials are to be used ( bitumen shingles, PVC films, rolls bitumen roofs), it is necessary to make a continuous, even flooring.

Roof insulation must be treated with the utmost care, since otherwise heat losses will be very significant. Typically, a gable roof is immediately made taking into account the use of certain materials for insulation - when building a rafter system with your own hands, the pitch of the rafters is calculated relative to the width of the sheet insulation. This allows you to build a roof with minimal economic costs, since the material for insulation does not have to be cut. In addition, this approach speeds up and simplifies the installation of insulation and vapor barrier systems.

In this high-quality video you can see in detail how to make a gable roof yourself and make sure that there is nothing complicated about it.

Thanks to simple device, ease of maintenance and durability, ensuring long-term operation, a gable roof is the most common solution when arranging houses.

Types and features of a gable roof

The shape of the gable roof is determined at the design stage. It largely depends on the further use of the attic space. There are three main types gable roof:

• Symmetrical. The most common option provides a reliable device and uniform load distribution. There is virtually no risk of rafters bending down. A significant drawback is the impossibility of arranging an attic. Sharp corners form areas of the attic that are unusable.
• Simple asymmetrical. The formation of one angle exceeding 45° ensures an increase in usable area. This allows you to organize additional living rooms under a gable roof. Uneven distribution loads on the foundation and load-bearing walls causes difficulties at the stage of calculations for installing rafters.
• Broken. The fracture of a gable roof can be internal or external. Thanks to the non-standard design, it becomes possible to use the attic space to create a full second floor. Calculations for installing rafters become much more complicated.

Calculate correct angle slope is a key task preceding the installation of rafters for a gable roof. The climatic features of the region are taken into account. The presence of frequent and heavy rainfall necessitates the need for a steep slope of the gable roof. Installation of flat slopes is preferable in case of significant wind loads. With a possible range from 5 to 90 o, the most common roof option is one with a slope of 35 to 45 o, characterized by savings in material consumption and uniform load distribution.

Rafter system options

The Mauerlat and rafter system are the load-bearing elements of a gable structure. The rafters themselves consist of several parts:

• rafter legs and tie rods connecting them and imparting rigidity;
• vertical racks;
• crossbars;
• ridge and side girders;
• longitudinal struts; in regions with significant snow and wind loads, additional installation of diagonal struts is performed;
• spacers;
• bed and sheathing.

Advice ! The rafter diagram necessarily includes the installation chimney and ventilation shaft.

For the selected gable structure, there are three options for installing rafters. Let's look at the features of each method.

• If the roof width is less than 6 pm, the option of installing hanging rafters is considered. The process involves fixing the leg between the ridge girder and the supporting wall. This ensures a reduction in the impact of bursting force on the rafter legs. The connection of rafter elements is carried out using tightening made of wood or metal. Their installation below allows them to serve as load-bearing beams. An indispensable condition is reliable fixation of the tightening, as it is subject to bursting forces.
• Layered rafters are not limited to the size of gable structures; they include beams and posts. A significant advantage of this type of rafters is ease of installation. The practicality of the design is overshadowed by the presence of a stand.
• Complex configurations of gable roofs require the installation of combined rafters.

Having determined suitable look rafter system, proceed to calculating the amount of material. In this case, each element of the roof needs a separate drawing and recording of the obtained calculation results.

Calculation of the rafter system

In fact, the rafter system is triangular elements connected together, characterized by maximum rigidity. If the gable roof has a broken structure, the irregular rectangles need to be divided into separate components, followed by calculation of the loads for each part. At the final stage, the data is summarized.

Determination of permanent and temporary loads

An integral condition for installing rafters is determining the loads on a gable roof. They are divided into constant, variable and special. The components of the magnitude of constant loads are the weight of the sheathing, finishing materials of the attic, insulation and other elements that generally form the weight of the roof. On average, this load on the rafters is 40-45 kg m2.

Advice ! Calculation of the strength of a gable structure provides for a 10% margin.

Based on the indicators in the table indicating the weight of individual materials for roofing, you should adhere to a maximum load of 50 kg per 1 m 2 of roof area.

The very name of variable loads indicates their inconsistent action. This includes wind force, snow cover and other types of intense influence weather conditions. A gable roof is like a sail; an incorrectly calculated angle of inclination can provoke its destruction under the influence of strong winds. To calculate this parameter, we turn to the indicators specified in SNiP “Loads and Impacts”, taking into account related factors (location of the house in open space or among high-rise buildings). Determining the influence of snow cover on a gable roof is the product of the weight of the snow and a correction factor that takes into account aerodynamic effects. According to SNiP, the weight of snow ranges from 80-560 kg/m2. The dependence of the coefficients on the angle of inclination of the roof is presented in the following figure:

If the angle exceeds 60°, this parameter is not taken into account due to the impossibility of retaining snow cover on a gable structure. Special loads are provided in regions with increased seismic activity, with possible storm winds or tornadoes, which is not typical for most territories.

Calculation of technical parameters of rafters

The installation of the rafters is based on the shape of the gable roof; the more complex it is, the more rafter elements the system includes. When using a soft roof, the angle of inclination of the roof does not exceed 20 o; steeper designs require the installation of ondulin, metal tiles or standard slate.

The choice of rafter pitch depends on the roofing material used and the weight of the gable structure; it varies between 0.6-1.0 m. The number of legs is determined by dividing the length of the roof by the gap between the rafter pairs and then adding 1. The result shows the number of legs per one side of the roof, to determine the overall indicator, the figure is doubled.

Installation of rafters will not be complete without determining their length, for which the Pythagorean theorem is used (c 2 = a 2 + b 2), where:

• The roof height (a) is selected based on the possibility of further use of the attic space.
• Let us denote half the width of the house as b.
• The hypotenuse (c) represents the desired quantity - the length of the rafters.

Note! The result obtained should be increased by 0.6-0.7 m for cutting and moving the rafter element beyond the wall.

If the maximum beam length of 6 pm is not enough to install the rafter leg, it can be spliced ​​by joining or extending.

When determining the cross-section of the rafters, the following factors are taken into account:

• constant and variable loads:
• what roofing material will be installed;
• type of wood used;
• the length of the rafter legs and the pitch between them.

The table below will help you determine the parameter you are looking for:

Rafter installation pitch (m)	Rafter leg length, m

Analyzing the data, a pattern emerges: increasing the installation pitch of the rafters proportionally increases the load on each leg, therefore, its cross-section should increase.

Approximate sections individual elements gable roof rafter system are given below:

Installation of a gable roof

After carefully checking the calculations, they begin to install the Mauerlat.

Mauerlat

Installation of the Mauerlat includes the following steps:

• Fixing the beam on the wall intended to support the rafters. If the house is made of logs, the function of the Mauerlat is performed by the upper crown. Buildings made of porous material require the installation of a Mauerlat along the entire length of the load-bearing wall.
• The problem of exceeding the standard dimensions of lumber when installing a mauerlat is solved by merging them.
• To connect the Mauerlat of a gable roof, the timber is cut exclusively at a right angle; the function of the connecting link is performed by bolts. The use of wire, nails and wooden dowels is not acceptable.

Installation of the Mauerlat can be done in the center of the supporting wall or offset. When fixing the structure, at least 5 cm must remain to the outer boundary of the wall. The use of waterproofing protection will protect wooden frame gable roof from moisture damage. Reliable fastening is an essential condition for installing rafters and mauerlat on a gable roof. There are several ways to fulfill this requirement:

• Anchor bolts are ideal for a monolithic structure;
• It is preferable to equip log houses with wooden dowels;
• porous materials combine well with reinforcement or studs;
• annealed wire is used as an additional fastening when installing rafters;
• hinged fastening involves displacement of the rafter legs during the process of shrinkage of the house.

Installation of rafters

Installation of rafter pairs is carried out in two ways: directly on the roof, which is very impractical, or on the ground. With the second method, difficulties may arise when moving the assembled elements onto the roof. The installation of assembled pairs on the mauerlat is preceded by the preparation of cuts; they are made exclusively on the rafter leg, so as not to weaken the base wooden structure. Mounting options are shown below:

To install paired rafters, temporary spacers and struts are used. The ridge knot is formed by connecting at the top of the rafter legs. The process involves several options for completing the task:

• the small design of the gable roof allows for the absence of a support beam;
• large dimensions require the use of rafter beams, which subsequently serve as support for the rack.
• cutting method.

Arrangement options are shown in the photo:

Installing the sheathing makes it easier to attach the roofing material; its pitch directly depends on the coating used:

• a maximum pitch of 44 cm is possible when arranging the roof with slate or corrugated sheeting;
• a distance of 350 mm will be sufficient when covering with metal tiles;
• soft roofing requires continuous sheathing.

Installing rafters contains a lot of nuances that are difficult to foresee in advance. Templates made from thin boards can make it easier to prepare cuts and cuts. The video will also answer some of your questions.