Anyone who has had to deal with replacing electrical wiring in apartment building, knows that the most difficult thing is to replace it in the floor slabs, where it passes to supply voltage to ceiling lamps and chandeliers. This problem does not exist for apartments where there are suspended, suspended and other types of ceilings; in their design, there is space between the slab and the decorative plane in which wiring can be laid anywhere and however you want. But in the case where you plan to paint the ceiling, cover it with wallpaper or foam tiles, this procedure can cause a lot of trouble. There are three types of floor slabs. The first two are structures with internal channels - voids, where the electrical wires pass, the only difference is that they can run along or across the slab. If you are unlucky, you will have to deal with the third type, the U-shaped one, in which there are no voids, and the wires pass under the floor of the upper neighbors, then there is only one way out - to do suspended ceiling. In the first two cases, we start by expanding the hole through which the wire exits to the chandelier. We do this with a hammer drill, with which we first drill holes with a drill, and then with a nozzle - a chisel we destroy the jumpers.
Now you need to determine the direction of the channel, since it may not be perpendicular to the walls. To do this, we drill control holes in the slab.
Having identified it, we find the place where the wire exits; it can be in the same room, or maybe in the next one, but always next to the branch box, which must be looked for under the old plaster and wallpaper.
In the place where the wires meet different rooms and different lines you need to find the right one. To do this, we turn off the power to the apartment, disconnect all the twists or couplings and use a dial to find the one we are looking for. Then, as at the beginning of work, we widen the hole in the plate and try to pull the wire through from different ends one by one. With some luck, he may immediately have some slack, but you shouldn’t immediately pull him out to celebrate. You need to connect its end to the end of the new wire and carefully pull this twist through the channel.
If you can’t pull it out right away, you can increase the force with a tool, for example, pliers, sharply pulling the wire from one end and the other, but in this case you can overdo it, old aluminum wires are quite fragile and you can simply break them, then the further process becomes more complicated. Therefore, there is no need to rush, you need to firmly connect the end old wiring by cutting off any wire on both sides and alternately applying force without sudden jerks, try to pull it out. The channels in the slabs are quite large in diameter, but they can be clogged with construction debris or mortar that gets into them, so it is not always possible to pull them out. If this happens, we move on to the next stage and try to extend the guide probe. The material for it should be quite rigid, but flexible. The soft one will bend when meeting an obstacle, but the hard one will be difficult to give the desired direction. The best option- a sheathed cable for sewer cleaning, it is quite flexible to change the direction of movement in the channel and will not bend when meeting an obstacle. We insert the end of the cable into one of the two holes and, giving it the desired direction, move it forward.
When jamming, we make reciprocating movements with simultaneous twisting. If the channel is not tightly clogged with solution, then everything will work out. Then we firmly attach the new wire to the cable, making the twist streamlined, without protruding corners, and pull it through the channel.
If it happens that the void is not passable, you can use the adjacent one, finding it by test drilling the floor panel at a distance of 15 - 20 cm from the old hole. But this is acceptable when the slab is hollow and has several voids, but if it is monolithic with one special channel for wiring, then this option is not suitable and all that remains is to carry out external fines, which is not encouraged by SNiP or to make a suspended ceiling.
Don't forget about something new:
Federal Law of July 22, 2008 N 123-FZ
"Technical regulations on requirements fire safety"
Article 82. Fire safety requirements for electrical installations of buildings, structures and structures
1. Electrical installations of buildings, structures and structures must comply with the class of the fire and explosion hazardous zone in which they are installed, as well as the category and group of the combustible mixture.
2. Cables and wire systems fire protection, means of supporting the activities of fire departments, fire detection systems, warning and management of evacuation of people in case of fire, emergency lighting on evacuation routes, emergency ventilation and smoke protection, automatic fire extinguishing, internal fire-fighting water supply, elevators for transporting fire departments in buildings, structures and structures must remain operational in fire conditions for the time necessary for the complete evacuation of people to a safe area.
3. Cables from transformer substations backup sources power supplies to input distribution devices must be laid in separate fire-resistant channels or have fire protection.
4. Power supply lines to premises of buildings, structures and structures must have protective shutdown devices that prevent a fire from occurring in the event of a malfunction of electrical receivers. The installation rules and parameters of residual current devices must take into account the fire safety requirements established in accordance with this Federal Law.
5. Distribution boards must have a design that prevents the spread of combustion beyond the board from the low-current compartment to the power compartment and vice versa.
6. The distribution of cables and wires from floor distribution panels to premises must be carried out in channels made of non-combustible building structures or molded fittings that meet fire safety requirements.
7. Horizontal and vertical channels for laying electrical cables and wires in buildings, structures and structures must be protected from the spread of fire. In places where cable channels, ducts, cables and wires pass through building construction with a standardized fire resistance limit, cable penetrations with a fire resistance limit not lower than the fire resistance limit of these structures must be provided.
8. Cables laid openly must be flame retardant.
9. Emergency lighting fixtures on escape routes with autonomous power sources must be provided with devices to test their functionality when simulating a shutdown of the main power source. The operating resource of the autonomous power source must provide emergency lighting on evacuation routes during the estimated time of evacuation of people to a safe zone.
10. Electrical equipment without fire and explosion protection means is not allowed to be used in explosive, explosive and fire hazardous areas of buildings, structures and structures that do not have measures aimed at eliminating the danger of an ignition source in a flammable environment additional measures protection.
11. Fire-proof electrical equipment is not allowed to be used in explosive and fire-hazardous areas.
12. Explosion-proof electrical equipment may be used in fire-hazardous and non-fire-hazardous premises, and in explosive premises - provided that the category and group of the explosive mixture in the room corresponds to the type of explosion protection of the electrical equipment.
13. Rules for the use of electrical equipment depending on the degree of its explosion and fire resistance fire danger in buildings, structures and structures for various purposes, as well as fire hazard indicators of electrical equipment and methods for their determination are established federal laws O technical regulations for this product and/or regulatory documents on fire safety.
Modern renovations can no longer get by with just one chandelier hanging in the center of the room; we often highlight individual zones with our own points of light or attach them to the ceiling optional equipment, such as smoke or motion detectors.
Sometimes it happens that you need to solve a problem that can baffle an inexperienced technician, namely, laying wiring in the ceiling, without using suspended or suspended ceilings.
So we’ll try to fully cover the topic of wiring in the ceiling by examining 5 ways to solve the problem.
Laying wiring in a plastic box
Probably the easiest way to solve the wiring problem, which relates to open method gaskets There is no need to talk about the aesthetics of this method of laying, but it is quick in terms of time.
Beauty: -
Simplicity: +
Laying wires on the floor of the upper floor
The wiring is laid in a protective corrugation along the floor top floor in the groove or between the lags and through through holes in the floor slab they are lowered to the points of the lamps.
The method is convenient during a major renovation of your home, and for apartments in panel house doesn't quite fit.
Beauty: +
The work ahead will be dusty, but the result will be worth it. If you have to embed a spotlight, or rather not like this, if the thickness of the interfloor ceiling allows you to embed a spotlight, you can use special drill bits and cut niches for them.
Beauty: +
Simplicity: -
Wiring under the plaster in the ceiling
A flat wire PPV, VVP, PV1 is laid along the “dirty” ceiling; more details about the types of wire are in the article and plastered over the beacons. It is important that the wire fits tightly to the ceiling, then plaster mortar it will take less.
The method is used in monolithic slabs ceilings without voids.
Beauty: +
Simplicity: +
Laying wires in the voids of floor slabs
In the floor slab there are void channels along them and wires are pulled. True, there are also disadvantages, such a channel must first be found, for this you can make a lot of holes in the reinforced concrete floor slab. Unlike the method of gating the interfloor ceiling, the strength of the latter does not decrease.
After the channels-voids in the ceiling have been found, you can stretch a wire through them using wire.
In houses with concrete slabs PC-type ceilings (with air channels inside the pipe) make it possible to make hidden electrical wiring inside the slab.
Wires are laid there for chandeliers, lamps, and even lines for sockets if necessary.
Now I will show how we changed the wire going to the chandelier from the junction box.
Do not forget that all work must be carried out with the voltage turned off at the work site!
The hardest thing was finding the entrance old electrical wiring into the channel of the plate coming from the junction box.
Along the floor slab, a purely visual line was drawn, passing through the hole in the center of the slab for the chandelier - to the wall with the junction box.
At this junction of the floor slab with the wall where the proposed line ended, the plaster was chiselled.
Having found the old wire in the wall, we carefully gouge out the hole for its entry into the floor slab.
Be careful - this is so as not to interrupt this wire, it will be useful to us later.
By gouging the hole, we free the wire from residues old plaster, mortar and, as far as possible, remove pebbles and other construction debris from the floor slab channel.
Lightly tugging on the old wire makes sure that it moves freely along the channel in both directions.
Only after this do we attach a new wire to it (naturally copper, with a cross-section of at least 1.5 sq. mm).
The main thing here is not to overdo it, the wire in the channel constantly clings to the walls and the remains of the solution, and if you pull without measure, you will simply break the wire and have to start all over again, and even look for steel wire to pass through the channel.
That's basically all this simple technology.
With new construction, construction is of course a little more difficult - you need to find a channel in the slab on both sides. Under the chandelier and the wire entry into the stove.
Here you can tap the slab with a crowbar or hammer to find the approximate location of the channel in the floor slab by sound.
Mostly found near the wall. You can drill a small hole with a hammer drill. If the drill goes deeper than 5-7 cm, it means that they didn’t hit the center of the channel, we drill another hole slightly retreating until we find the channel.
Then we crush the plate in this place, not very wide, so that a new wire can be inserted. And we hammer along the slab along the channel so that there is no sharp bend in the wire when entering the slab.
The smaller the bend, the easier the wire will be pulled through.
After this, we take a rigid steel wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm and insert it into the channel of the slab so that it hangs from both sides. Next, we attach the mounted wire to this steel and, pulling the wire, tighten the electrical wiring into place.
Then the place where the wire enters the slab (in the ceiling) is plastered.
Sometimes it happens that the channel in the floor slab becomes clogged with crushed stone or mortar and there is no way to get the wire through the channel.
Then you have to make several vertical holes in the floor slab along the channel where the wire enters.
We insert the wire as far as possible and measure how far it has entered the slab, then look at this distance on the slab and make a hole in this place to remove stones or remaining mortar.
If only you had heard what words electricians do not use in these cases to call builders who have clogged the channels with debris)))
In the same way, you can stretch not only the wire to the lamp, but also the main wires to the sockets, for example, from wall to wall.
There are situations where wires are run in the channel of the slab near the wall itself (along it). It all depends on the situation.
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Nowadays, it is rare for anyone to use only one lamp hanging in the center of the room for lighting. Everyone wants to have in their apartment, in addition to the main lighting, additional lighting to highlight separate local areas and recreation areas.
When the number of lamps on the ceiling becomes more than one and they are located in the most unexpected places on the ceiling, the question immediately arises, how to connect wires to them?
If there is a suspended or stretch ceiling Usually there are no problems, but there are cases when a suspended ceiling is not planned, and lamps are used in large quantities. What is the best thing to do in this case? There are several options here. All of them differ in labor intensity, reliability and beauty of the result obtained. Let's look at the main methods of laying wires to lamps in the absence of a suspended ceiling.
1. Laying the wire in plastic boxes . This method applies to. Despite its lightness, it scares off many because, despite their large assortment, they spoil the design of the room. But if your smart and creative designer can beautifully disguise and fit the boxes into the interior, then why not do just that? At least this method of laying wires is considered the easiest and most convenient.
2. Laying wires on the floor of a higher floor. The wire is laid along the floor, and then through the holes in the plates it is lowered to the lamps. This method is applicable only in private homes and only if you decide to renovate the entire house at once.
3. Ceiling chipping. In the presence of normal tool You can make a groove on the ceiling in the same way as they are made when installing wires into the wall. Although this method seems to be the simplest in our case, it is the most dangerous and it is very undesirable to use it, because when chipping the slab, the strength is compromised concrete structures(microcracks appear in the slab). Especially the ceiling after it has been chipped with long longitudinal and transverse ones is dangerous for those living in multi-story buildings. residential buildings, because the ceiling is load-bearing structure Houses.
4. Laying wires along the ceiling under the plaster. To do this, all the plaster is removed from the ceiling, the route is marked, a flat wire is laid and secured, which is then plastered on top. The ceiling is made using plaster, to which the lamps are attached. This method requires proper adherence to the technology for laying and securing the wire and a large consumption of plaster, but it has to be used in the case when the apartment does not use hollow slabs with channels, but monolithic ceilings.
5. Pull the wire between reinforced concrete slabs in the spaces between them. This method is only possible when prefabricated floor slabs are used for the ceiling in the apartment. In this case, you need to find these voids (usually the seams between the slabs are visible) and make a groove along them. The difference from the method of scoring the slab itself is that the strength is not compromised here ceiling tiles, since the plates themselves are not grooved, but the wire is laid in the void between them. Along with the wire exit on the wall for the switch and on the ceiling to the lamp, two holes are made.
6. Laying wires in the channels of ceiling tiles. Channels for laying wires are made in floor slabs during their manufacture at enterprises. Using a hammer drill, channels are found, and then a rigid steel wire or cable is inserted into the channel, and a wire is tied to the end of it. The wire is pulled to the point where it exits the slab. After pulling the wire, the wire ends up in the channel. If the channel is clogged with construction debris, then make additional holes and clean it.
The number of wires that can be laid in one channel depends on the diameter of the channel and the cross-section of the cores. With a channel diameter of 15 mm, 3 - 4 wires with a cross section of 1.5 - 2.5 mm2 can be laid in it. This is the most preferred method of laying wires to lamps, although it is the most labor-intensive of all listed.
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