Wood is known to be an organic material. All that pests such as bacteria, fungi and mold need is the presence of organic matter, moisture and oxygen. So without protection, the chances of wood to survive tend to zero. For protective coatings, a wide range of impregnations are used, which contain potent substances that are not always safe for nature and humans. In this article, we will look at one of the safest types of protection - wood oil.
As we have already said, impregnations for woodwork are different. You can find aqueous solutions of salts, solutions based on alcohols and other organic solvents, formulations based on waxes and oils. It is the last two groups that are of mass interest, since they are the most natural and safe - both for the wooden surface itself, and for humans, pets and the environment.
If we consider the oil - properties and application - we can easily make sure that we have the optimal remedy. A tree treated with such an impregnation not only retains its natural advantages, acquires hydrophobic properties, but also additional charm, looks solid and expensive. The oil is suitable for coating a wide variety of tree species, including rare and valuable varieties.
The main enemy of wood is moisture. It penetrates through numerous pores and capillaries, which abound in the structure of the material. When the surface is treated with oil, these channels are filled and remain inaccessible to water, while maintaining the ability of the tree to "breathe".
Wood covered with oil is reliably protected from bacteria and mold. Moreover, as a result of oxidation, the composition partially polymerizes, thereby closing the pores even more. As we know, water does not dissolve fats, so the oil does not wash out.
Important! The oil fills the pores and clogs the capillaries, so it does not allow moisture to be absorbed deep into the material. Bacteria, fungi and mold cannot survive in the absence of water, and the tree remains unharmed.
Features and Benefits of Wood Oil:
- It is an effective agent that repels moisture and dirt.
- Completely natural, environmentally friendly and safe.
- Protects the material from biological corrosion as a result of the activity of bacteria, fungi, mold and insects.
- It gives the surface a noble appearance, retains decorative qualities, emphasizes the grain pattern.
- Protects the material from drying out and cracking, increases its elasticity.
Important! The product does not clog pores so much that the board stops breathing. After applying the impregnation, the material retains its ability to pass air.
It is interesting to know that there is also a tinting oil that combines the properties of protection and decoration. In addition, various impurities can be added to it, for example, wax, turpentine, rosin, biocides, fire retardants, etc. When buying a drug, be sure to be interested in its composition.
Ways to use oil for wood
It is very important to dwell on how to apply oil-based impregnations. First of all, you should properly prepare the surface.
Preparatory processing includes the following steps:
- Removal of old finishes. If the surface is covered with paint or varnish, it must be completely removed or sanded.
- Removing grease stains. If there are greasy or oil stains on the surface, they should be removed with turpentine or white spirit.
- Sandpaper processing. All surfaces of the product should be processed step by step with fine sandpaper (P100 - P150) to open the pores.
- The better prepared the wood, the more evenly the oil will be absorbed.
- Dedusting. Chips and dust must be carefully removed.
- Impregnant treatment. For basic protection, impregnate the material with an antiseptic, IMPREGNANT GOODHIM 320 is well suited.
Important! The moisture content of wood should not exceed 12 - 15%. The temperature in the room also plays a role, it should not be lower than +5 degrees.
Application method
To apply the oil, use a brush with natural bristles.
Impregnation must be thoroughly mixed. Then a small amount is poured onto a board or a brush is dipped into a jar, thus applying the product. Next, it must be carefully rubbed along the fibers. The dosage depends on the porosity and type of wood, as well as on its moisture content and the skill of the painter.
When the entire surface of the board is evenly covered and painted over, it must be left for 8 to 15 minutes. After that, you should take a clean cotton rag and remove the remnants from the surface by rubbing it along the fibers. As a result, the structure of the wood is clearly visible. The final layer is applied after 6-8 hours.
Important! Wax oil is thicker and requires more thorough rubbing, in addition, it is less absorbed than the first layer. Rub it longer and harder.
Oil for interior work
Initially, wood oil was perceived as an interior oil. This is due to its ecological purity and naturalness. In addition, the use of oil impregnations is associated with the production of furniture and decorative elements. Indeed, oil treatment makes even inexpensive wood refined and pleasant to the touch.
The use of this method of protection indoors is justified from all points of view. Interior oils do not emit unpleasant odors, do not contain toxins and are even suitable for treating children's toys and furniture.
An example of a good interior composition is the product TM GOODHIM. This is an indoor wood treatment containing 100% natural oxidized linseed oil with added beeswax, carnauba and candelilla waxes, pine resin, UV filter and pigments. The solvent is gum turpentine.
Important! One of the advantages of the oil is the ability to restore the coating of the damaged area without repolishing the entire product. The agent is applied to the area and simply rubbed until its borders are completely smoothed.
Oil for outdoor use
Oil impregnations for wood have found application not only in the interior, but also in the open air. They are used to process the following products:
- facades of wooden or clapboard houses;
- platbands, railings and other elements of external decor;
- garden furniture, benches, tables, benches;
- fences, doors, gates, gates and other wooden structures;
- sheds, stables, chicken coops and other similar buildings.
The application of external oils does not differ significantly from the generally accepted rules. It should be borne in mind that the product must be treated with an antiseptic before being impregnated with oil. This will significantly increase the level of protection and extend its life. Good fit.
ТМ GOODHIM also produces terrace and facade oils. These products are excellent for external use and consist of 100% natural linseed oil with the addition of waxes, turpentine, pine resin and other natural ingredients. The composition contains desiccants to accelerate polymerization, but they do not contain lead compounds.
Oils can be clear or tinted. Tinting allows you to change the color of absolutely any breed, ranging from dark chestnut to whitish. To achieve a more saturated shade, more layers should be applied, the same measure helps to achieve a higher degree of protection against moisture and a glossy sheen.
Oil rating
The best oils for wood are always natural formulations. The most popular and widespread products based on linseed oil, as it penetrates deep into the wood and has water-repellent properties. Tung, teak and Danish oils are also used.
If you use regular oil, the results will not be the same as using the oxidized form. This form is different in that the oil was pre-purged with air or ozone, which made it thicker and ready for rapid polymerization.
For better penetrating power, the oxidized oil is slightly diluted with natural gum turpentine. This solvent allows the product to penetrate deeper into the pores and small capillaries, thereby significantly increasing the effectiveness of the impregnation.
To improve the strength properties of the polymer film, components such as natural wax are added to the composition. Beeswax and carnauba wax have proven themselves especially well. Impurities of other oils, for example, pine, are also used.
Considering that hardening will proceed under conditions of weak UV radiation and the absence of wind, the product is improved by introducing so-called driers - salts of certain metals that accelerate polymerization. Good varieties do not contain lead salts and other harmful metals.
So, a good wood oil should meet the following criteria:
- consist of natural raw materials;
- be pre-oxidized;
- contain other oils;
- contain natural wax;
- be slightly diluted with a natural solvent;
- include lead-free driers;
- have a solids content of at least 90%.
Important! Dry residue is one of the main indicators of the quality of wood oil. The higher this indicator, the higher the hiding power of the product, respectively, fewer layers are needed.
For those who do not know which wood oil to choose, we will present a table with the best, in our opinion, manufacturers. There will be Russian and foreign companies.
wood impregnation cost
Prices for oil impregnations are highly dependent on their purpose and the country of origin of the brand. In addition, the composition and quality of the components play a significant role. The average price in Russia is about 500 rubles per liter if we are talking about high-quality oil with all additives and processing stages. However, if you buy oil from the manufacturer, the price can be much lower. For example, like GOODHIM, it starts from 400 rubles per liter.
Working hours:
from Monday to Friday: from 9:00 to 18:00
Saturday - Sunday: day off
- a) closes the smallest pores of wood, polymerizing on the surface;
- b) makes large pores and the entire surface hydrophobic (water-repellent).
- linen
- hemp.
- tung;
- teak;
- tar;
- linen.
- The most popular of these products is flaxseed oil. It is versatile and can be used both outside and inside the house. Linen impregnation is great for wet rooms, because. has good hydrophobic properties. The oil dries long enough, up to three weeks, to speed up the process, wax is added to it. At negative temperatures, the oil becomes solid, which complicates the processing of external surfaces.
- Tar oil is ideal for processing the facades of log and timber houses. It perfectly withstands all weather conditions and is resistant to sub-zero temperatures. In addition, it is one of the best natural antiseptics, and protects external surfaces from decay. It is undesirable to use tar impregnation indoors, since it contains turpentine.
- Teak oil is suitable for impregnation of any surfaces, it provides effective protection against moisture, UV radiation and other adverse factors. This tool is also used to cover expensive wood species.
- Tung oil is intended for the treatment of internal surfaces. It differs from other types of oils in a higher drying rate. The oil creates a durable film that has a high water-repellent effect. Very often used for the restoration of antiques.
- Conifers contain resins that prevent the penetration of oil into the structure, so they do not need oil impregnation. To protect the surface, in case of emergency, you can use thick compositions in one layer or process the tree of this species by waxing.
- For low density wood, alder and linden, it is also better to use thick saturated impregnations. The use of fluid compositions is undesirable, since with deep penetration, they remain inside in a liquid state.
- Beech and birch are characterized by high density, and therefore, they are first treated with liquid compositions, and then with thicker ones, which have a high degree of dry residue, and with wax.
- Vacuum impregnation. This technique is commonly used in industrial settings. Such processing requires special equipment, so it is impossible to cover the surface using this technology on your own.
- Soaking. The method consists in placing the tree in heated oil, soaking for a certain time, and then drying it. In this way, only small wooden products can be painted.
- Layer coating. This technology is the most common. It is used for processing wooden surfaces of different sizes. This method is discussed in detail below.
- If you have to oil an old log house, first of all, remove the old coating. Paint or varnish is removed with a metal brush. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the wood itself. If it is not possible to clean off the coating in this way, you can heat it with a building hair dryer, when the paint bubbles, it can be removed with a spatula.
- Then you need to carefully sand the wood. Professionals perform this operation using a grinder with circles of different grain sizes, which are selected based on the condition of the surface. For rough cleaning, nozzles No. 40-80 are used, for medium - No. 100-120, for polishing - No. 150-180. If there are no machines, you can grind manually with sandpaper of different fractions.
- Before finishing polishing, all cracks and cracks must be repaired. It is necessary to putty with putty in the color of the wood so that the patches remain invisible after applying the oil.
- After finishing the preparatory work, all dust must be removed with a construction vacuum cleaner. The remaining dust will also be visible after applying the oil, so do this work as carefully as possible.
- First, the first layer of impregnation is applied. The oil is applied with a brush or cotton cloth in a thin layer and evenly distributed over the surface.
- Remove excess oil immediately, if this is not done, the impregnation will dry out and form a crust, which will then be very difficult to remove. To remove excess oil, you need to wipe this place with a dry cloth. It is necessary to rub the impregnation until the rag collects the oil. If the oil is not absorbed and lies on the surface of the floor, you can take a rubber spatula and rake the excess into puddles with it, and then collect it with a rag.
- Next, the surface is polished with a soft cloth. After that, all wet areas are wiped dry with a cotton cloth.
- With a cold method of processing, the application of the second layer is started no earlier than 5 hours, in some cases it is necessary to wait up to 12 hours. It depends on the type of oil. The second treatment with hot oil can be done after 2-2.5 hours, because. it dries out much faster.
- Re-processing is carried out similarly to the first, each layer must be polished. The number of coats depends on the condition of the surface, the wood species and the type of oil. Usually 2-3 layers are enough.
- impregnated with oil - then the fibers will not be able to absorb water and dirt;
- covered with a protective layer (lacquer, wax or paint).
- distributed unevenly;
- not stored for a long time;
- when applied, they dry quickly, which increases their consumption.
Modern houses have a lot of wood. Of course, there used to be more. But even now there are a lot of wooden parts in the house (knife handles, window-sills, cutting boards, door handles, door jambs, handicrafts, and so on). Like any other element, wood can age and deteriorate. Therefore, the question How to treat wood with oil to make it last longer? - this is a topical issue not only in antiquity (when wood was the main building material), but also now.
How to treat wood with oil? Well, you probably know that there are building supermarkets. And in construction supermarkets there are entire departments with varnishes, stains and other wood impregnations. But on our site, we prefer methods, so this article is mainly about what you can do to process wood yourself.
So let's get started. And let's start with the simplest way to process wood - impregnation with simple vegetable oil.
Impregnation of wood with vegetable oil is one of the oldest ways to process it. The main purpose of wood impregnation with oil is to increase the moisture protection of wooden products. So, wood itself is hydrophilic (loves water) and swells when water enters. Then it dries. Then it swells. And after a few cycles (depending on the amount of water, air humidity, etc.), the wood cracks. Which does not improve either its mechanical or its aesthetic properties.
Whereas impregnating wood with oil
Well, besides this, the impregnation of wood with oil increases its aesthetics, showing the structure of the tree. What looks prettier than when the tree structure is not visible.
How oil works: vegetable oils, remaining in the air, under the influence of oxygen, light and heat, thicken, and in a thin layer they “dry out” (polymerize), turning into a semi-solid mass. This characteristic property is inherent in those vegetable oils, which include polyunsaturated fatty acids, in particular linoleic and linolenic. The more of them, the greater the drying ability of the oil. Oils differ in the highest content of glycerides of linolenic and linoleic acids:
Sunflower oil works worse because it has fewer polyunsaturated fatty acids.
Let's see how this is applied in practice.
How can linseed oil be used in wood processing.
For example, you have a wooden knife handle that you want to process. The easiest way is to pick up the oil and rub the handle well. Wait for absorption. Rub again. And so on - until you get bored. In principle, this is enough for the household level. But if you want more (for example, increased resistance to water), then you can do the following.
The knife handle (or other product) should be placed in linseed oil for several days. To do this, the knife can be placed in a jar with a screw-on lid with a thin slot for the blade, which, after placing the knife in it, must be hermetically sealed.
When the wood of the cutting is soaked through, it must be wiped with a smooth, dry rag. After that, let it dry completely for a few weeks. When the oil evaporates, the surface is oxidized and polymerized, which after some time becomes strong and elastic.
As you noticed, the period is several weeks for the oil to dry when processing wood.
Why? Everything is very simple.
Vegetable oil in its natural form, even with a high content of linolenic acid, oxidizes extremely slowly. To reduce the drying time, the oil is subjected to heat treatment with the addition of metal compounds (desiccants) to its composition. When heated in oil, substances that slow down hardening decompose, and metal salts provide faster oxidation.
Thus we get drying oils- compositions that, within 6-36 hours (depending on the composition, preparation technology and additives used) after being applied to the surface, turn into a hard, elastic film. As you understand, the use of drying oil significantly speeds up the process. Drying oil can be bought at any store.
But, as we said at the beginning, we are trying to find ways to process wood ourselves. So let's go further.
The first way to accelerate the polymerization of oil. You can buy both linseed oil and desiccant at the art store. Well, to provide heat treatment with the help of friction - rub the oil well into a wooden product for, say, half an hour.
It's easy and simple 🙂 Although it's cheaper - it must be considered ...
Second way to speed up the drying and polymerization of the oil is to dilute the oil by half with turpentine. Turpentine is a mixture of essential oils, which are obtained by extraction from the resins of coniferous trees (i.e., from resin).
In the case of dilution with turpentine, the drying time is reduced to 1-2 weeks. Also keep in mind that turpentine is a toxic substance (see Wikipedia on this) and should not be allowed to come into contact with the skin, let alone breathe or drink it.
If you want not only to speed up the drying of the treated product, but to change its color, then you can dilute the oil by half with tar. Tar is a product of dry distillation of wood (wood is burned without air access). That is, this is the same turpentine, only in a coarser and much less toxic form.
Linseed oil can also be mixed with wax. Wax dissolves in linseed oil (if you do this by heating, then use a water bath and keep a fire extinguisher handy), and when treating wood with this composition, you not only oil, but also wax the surface. This enhances the water-repellent properties of wood many times over.
Naturally, the wood processing methods do not end there. But we will finish for now, leaving other ways for next time.
Happy woodworking!
Oil treatment of wood is a traditional way of caring for wooden surfaces. Oil compositions ensure the safety of the material for many years of operation, give the surface hydrophobic properties and protect against the development of all kinds of adverse processes. However, oil treatment is not such a simple operation as it seems at first glance. The application of oil products to wood has its own characteristics, without knowing which, you can get a completely opposite result and spoil the coating. In this review, we will focus on how to apply oil on wood, what subtleties and nuances exist in this work.
The most common oils used for wood processing:
Each of the oils presented has its own characteristics, a brief overview of all products is given in the article. Here we will focus on the criteria for choosing an oil, and also consider the best way to cover a tree in a particular case.
All the above oils are natural products, their use does not cause any adverse effects on humans. Today, mineral oil, which is based on petroleum products, is often used for surface treatment.
Manufacturers claim that synthetics are safe and can be used to treat interiors. However, this is not the case, synthetic additives are released into the atmosphere and are harmful to health. Therefore, the use of artificial oils is permissible only outside, and only if the product has undergone deep cleaning.
The choice of oil according to the type of wood
When choosing a particular oil, you should always consider the wood species. To determine how the oiled surface will look, it is necessary to test on a small section.
What can dilute the oil
To improve one or another characteristic of the oil, various components are added to it. For example, to increase the absorbency of tung oil, it is diluted by 40% with white spirit.
To increase the drying rate of linseed oil, it is mixed with turpentine in a ratio (70:30) and then heated. However, it should be noted that turpentine is toxic and has a pungent odor, so this composition can only be used for external processing. Tar is less toxic and can also be added to oil to speed up the drying process.
To impregnate wooden surfaces inside the house, wax is added to the oil. It increases the water-repellent and antistatic properties of the surface and accelerates the process of solidification of the oil composition.
If you want to change the color of the wood or get a more saturated shade, you can tint the oil with pigments. Tinting allows you to ennoble the look of a wooden house, painting it in natural tones of more valuable tree species.
If you want to give the house an unnatural color for a tree (red, green, blue), oil paints or casein-oil tempera are added to the impregnation. You can also dilute the oil with gouache, but in this case, mixing must be done hot to remove excess liquid from the paint.
Oil application technologies
There are three ways to paint wood with oil:
Preparatory work
Properly preparing the surface is 80% of success in this work. Oil is very strongly absorbed and under it it is impossible to hide defects. Any scuffs, scratches, bumps after applying the oil will remain noticeable. Therefore, the main task here is to bring the surface to an ideal state.
It is quite difficult to do this manually, it is advisable to use professional equipment for this - grinders, polishing pads. If there are no special tools, you can do the work yourself, but of course, the appearance of the surface will be far from ideal.
So what needs to be done:
Oil application instructions
Interior surface treatment
The oil can be applied cold or hot. Application rules are the same for both options. The difference is in the temperature of the oil impregnation. In the first case, room temperature oil is used, in the second case, the composition is heated to a temperature of 80 degrees before use. It is also necessary to warm the surface itself with a special thermal pad, since it will not work to soak a cold tree with hot oil, the product will not be able to be absorbed and will remain on the surface.
Regardless of the chosen method, you need to paint a tree with oil in stages:
It takes two to three weeks for the surface to dry completely, the exact period depends on the combination of the factors listed above.
House treatment outside
Applying oil on the facade of a house made of timber and logs should be done in warm sunny weather. It is advisable to prime the surface before this. Let's take linseed oil as an example. If the treatment is carried out with oil from flax, it must first be cleaned of impurities, since under the influence of solar radiation the flax impregnation turns yellow.
German technician Winfried Müller tested the products of 13 major European manufacturers of wood oils and waxes. We present an abbreviated version of an article published on the website www.wikidorf.de.
Introduction
The start of testing turned out to be simple: most of the products proved to be almost identical, since the main component was the same natural oil - linseed. However, the further, the more noticeable were the differences.
Confusion arose as soon as it came to the composition: some products resembled paint or azure. The solid oil from one manufacturer looked like the azure from another manufacturer and the oil with wax from a third. If we were to be strict, we would have to name different compounds differently - but we only need to know what we can expect from the product, so there is no need to go into too much detail.
Types of coatings
Usually wood is protected in two ways:
But now there are many hybrid options on the market - so you need to look at whether the coating absorbs the wood or whether it forms a protective layer on it. In the second case, we need to know how reliable the protection will be.
When applying wax, the protective layer is soft, you can even scratch it with your fingernail. Therefore, wax is most in demand as a filler for wood fibers to protect against moisture.
A thin protective layer forms an oil, which contains wax (especially hard), resins and drying agents.
Solvent
In recent years, manufacturers have increasingly offered water-based products. This trend is likely to continue as such formulations are less polluting. But water-based coatings also have disadvantages.
In this regard, I prefer solvent-based products to which I am not allergic, or natural oil. The latter requires more processing time, but is also more durable than varnish or synthetic paint. This must be borne in mind - although do not forget: durability also largely depends on the ability of wood to absorb the composition.
Another aspect: reviews of various compositions can only be useful if they are not superficial. Unfortunately, reviews are often limited to only a few products, while for a full comparison it is necessary to consider all well-known brands that are widely available for sale.
Overview of oils and waxes
Kreidezeit Products
Since 1987, the company has been producing environmentally friendly products from natural renewable raw materials. The compositions are based on traditional recipes adapted to today's requirements.
There are about 200 products in the company's catalog - they are developed and produced in the company itself (except for color pigments).
Solid oil PureSolid
Ingredients: linseed and tung oils and rosin. Does not contain synthetic solvents. Oil entered the market in 2006.
Can this composition without a solvent penetrate deep into the tree? The experience of its use on beech showed that yes. During the test (60 minutes, 20°C), the wood absorbed about 130 g/m² of oil. The manufacturer recommends PureSolid for coating worktops and wooden floors: unfortunately, it was not possible to test the oil on surfaces subject to heavy wear, such as floors.
If necessary, the oil can be diluted with turpentine, which makes sense when working with resinous wood (pine, larch, spruce).
The oil can be heated in a water bath up to 60 ° C for hot application, which, however, is not always necessary.
The oil is absorbed for a long time - before rubbing in excess, you should wait at least 45 minutes.
A surface treated with PureSolid oil becomes shiny, especially if it is rubbed twice with a soft cloth (eg white pad).
In general, the composition is easy to apply, even beginners can work with it.
Kreidezeit hard wax
Ingredients: linseed and wood oils, beeswax and carnauba wax and turpentine as a solvent. The consistency of the wax resembles solid honey.
It is easy to work with the material, but it is important to apply a thin layer. If you do the opposite, then when the solvent evaporates, a thick layer of wax will become sticky.
After 4-6 hours after applying the wax, the surface must be polished; if you do it earlier, then the pad will stick, the same is possible when applying a thick layer of wax. The end result is a silky-smooth surface with a slight sheen, which, alas, shows even slight damage. The cover itself is durable.
Attention! Wooden children's toys are not covered with wax.
Carnauba Wax Emulsion Kreidezeit
It is a maintenance product for waxed and oiled floors. It consists mainly of water-emulsified carnauba wax (from the leaves of the copernicia cerifera palm).
This is a care product that can be added to the water for washing the floor (3 tablespoons per 8-10 liters). Since wax does not have a cleaning effect, wash a heavily soiled floor first with a cleaning agent. If the floor has been recently oiled or waxed, it is best to wax it before walking on it.
Products Natural
Natural is a small family business in Austria that has specialized in the production of natural dyes since 1976. The company is a member of the registered association of natural paint manufacturers ENAV, which also includes: Auro, Beeck "sche Farbenwerke, Naturhaus, Leinos, Livos and Biofa.
Winfried Müller: “What I like more and more when working with natural oils is their smell. It can be addictive"
Hard oil for wood
This is a classic processing oil that contains a solid and solvent in a ratio of approximately 1:1. The oil is well absorbed and has a pleasant aroma - it contains isoaliphates (solvents with low toxicity) and orange peel oil.
The composition gradually penetrates into the pores of the wood and dries for a long time. Tests on beech showed that the wood was well impregnated and very little oil was needed for the second coat, but it also took a long time to dry.
The composition is suitable for children's toys. Due to the simplicity of the application and processing technology, even beginners can work with oil. For heavily loaded surfaces (floor, countertop), the company recommends parquet oil, as it is even more durable.
Natural parquet oil
The product resembles solid wood oil, but contains less solvent: the ratio of solvent to solids is approximately 2:3.
The oil dries long enough (60-90 minutes); when using a thin layer, a polymer film forms on the surface of the composition half an hour after application. In this case, either more oil needs to be added or the supernatant (supernatant) removed after 10-15 minutes. It is important not to miss the moment.
The oil is mainly used for floor treatment, but it is also recommended for countertops.
Finishing oil
This oil is applied to the oiled surface. It easily forms a polymer film and makes the surface more elastic. After polishing, the surface becomes silky-glossy - and this despite the fact that the oil does not contain wax.
The oil forms a rather hard surface (does not scratch with a fingernail), which is most likely due to the high content of resins (rosin and damar). It is well suited for processing coniferous wood.
The smell is mild, slightly reminiscent of an orange. It is important to shake the jar well before use, it is worth stirring during operation: the resins quickly form a precipitate. Not recommended for use on waxed surfaces.
Finishing oil is suitable for surfaces that need special protection. It can also be used in place of natural azure oil for temporary surface protection.
Winfried Müller: “Although oil is only used as a finish on an already finished surface, I used it as the only wood treatment. It is well suited for normally loaded surfaces (when applied in two coats)."
The oil has not been tested for use on children's toys!
Natural azure for wood
Azure can be used as a coloring oil: in this case, it emphasizes the structure of the surface. But it is important to note: not every wood is suitable for azure treatment - coloring pigments can unevenly penetrate into the pores of hardwood. For example, beech becomes spotty after processing.
There is an option: you can apply the coating in a very thin layer. In this case, the azure (very liquid and well absorbed) is well distributed.
For interior work, it is also better not to apply the azure in a thick layer, since different parts of the surface will shine differently. In addition, azure is not very hard; its polished surface is easily damaged.
Another option for using azure on hardwoods is rough sanding (P120).
At the ends of buildings, azure should be used with caution: since in these places the composition is absorbed better than on a regular surface. This can lead to deep color changes on the edge surfaces.
Drying with the formation of a polymer layer takes a little longer than in the case of oil. A fully treated surface dries out only after 1-2 weeks.
Natural oil for terrace treatment
This oil - colorless or pigmented - is intended for outdoor wood processing. As it dries quickly, it is ideal for terraces, decking and garden furniture.
Outside, it usually makes sense to use pigmented oils. This is where the visual aspect comes into play, although some woods treated with colorless oil are also quite beautiful.
However, pigments always provide UV protection, although to a lesser extent than special additives.
Natural patio oil penetrates the wood like normal oil, but forms a hard thin layer on the surface due to the natural resins it contains.
After 20-30 minutes after application, the oil must be again distributed over the surface in a uniform thin layer. After drying, it will acquire a characteristic sheen. Under natural conditions, drying lasts about a week, after which it is recommended to treat the surface with a second layer. To renew the coating, it is enough to cover the wood with one layer of oil.
Beginners like to cover the surface with too thick a layer, guided by the principle "A lot - not a little!". In this case, this is not true: excess oil will have to be removed from the surface with a rag or clothing (this is as lucky), and the coating itself will remain sticky for a long time.
Osmo Products
Osmo products differ markedly from conventional oils and waxes: when used, a polymer layer is almost always formed on the surface of the wood. Unlike other manufacturers, Osmo does not use linseed and tung oils in its products, but sunflower, soybean and thistle oils. The composition also includes candelilla and carnauba wax, paraffins; as a solvent - white spirit.
Osmo is trying to combine the naturalness of the product and good properties, so sometimes you can find chemical compounds that are by no means "problemless" in the composition, for example, 2-butanone oxime (banned from production in Canada as a potential carcinogen). However, this substance evaporates rapidly after processing and is not contained in the coating after polymerization. Also in recent years (as of 2015), the company's products contain sorbents based on cobalt salts, which is criticized by Ökotest.
The oils used by the manufacturer are not as high quality as linseed, but Osmo somehow managed to make quality coatings based on them. Their advantage is the absence of a strong odor.
Osmo hard wax oil
Osmo Hard Wax Oil is Osmo's best known product. His treatment of countertops, floors, and other surfaces that are subjected to constant exposure has proven to be very effective. Osmo Hard Wax Oil is often seen as an alternative to the classic oil in terms of how it is applied.
It is applied to the surface in a very thin layer. It dries fairly quickly without rubbing. For application, it is better to use a brush with artificial fiber, the bristles will be too coarse for the oil.
It is very important to mix the oil well before starting work! Excess oil should not be allowed to form on the surface, so as not to spoil the natural pattern of the wood.
It is not necessary to sand the surface between coats, but if after the first drying the wood fibers remain rough, they can be smoothed out with fine-grained sandpaper (P320-400).
Winfried Müller: "Despite the fact that the oil dries relatively quickly, I will still be careful with the surface for the first two weeks after applying the top coat."
The surface after processing became pleasant and smooth to the touch. The film formed over the wood is strong and elastic. In addition, it is resistant to moisture: even after spilled water was left on the treated surface for a day, no stains formed.
It is better to process small parts in a different way: apply oil with a thin soft cloth in several layers (from 3 to 6 - depending on what kind of load is expected on the surface). The gloss in this case will be matte.
Osmo Hard Wax Oil, unlike most products, protects wood mainly on the surface: beech is characterized by a penetration depth of 0.1-0.5 mm (usually for oil this figure is 1-4 mm). Because of this damage and deep scratches need to be treated again.
The solvent used is gasoline with aromatic compounds. The treated surface smells strongly, especially in the first weeks, and then the smell is almost not felt.
If an oil is required for painting wood, the manufacturer's line has a colored oil with hard wax. After its application, it is recommended to renew the coating with a colorless composition or decorative wax.
Before using the oil, the wood must be sanded with an abrasive with a grain size of at least P150. For hardwood furniture, this figure should be increased to P180–240.
After processing and polishing the coating, a thin layer of wax becomes quite hard, but it is important to consider: if the oil layer is more than recommended, the layer will remain soft even after years.
Sometimes information appears on the Internet that the treated coating may deteriorate if a hot bowl is placed on it, etc. The test results (a cup of boiling water stood for an hour on the treated surface) showed that there were no marks left on the wood.
In 2009, Osmo Hartwachsöl Pure was developed, which contains almost no solvents (less than 1%). The way it treats wood will be different, because the composition is more viscous compared to the oil in question.
The composition of the oil contains white pigments, but as a result, the color is rather restrained. Oil should be applied in a thin layer no more than 2-3 times.
Testing the composition on pine and beech showed good results. The oil was applied twice, after each layer the surface was polished.
Osmo Low Wax Oil
The composition is quite liquid, the consistency resembles water. Unlike many other Osmo products, this oil penetrates deep into the wood and does not form a protective layer on the surface. 30 minutes after application, the composition should be completely wiped off the surface.
Testing has shown that beech absorbs about 100 g/m² of compound in 30 minutes. During this time, the oil penetrates quite deep into the pores of the wood and gives the material a slight yellowish tint.
The processing technology is simple: it is unlikely that something will be done wrong. The oil does not stick if you wipe off its residue after processing.
The composition of the oil is approximately the same as that of other Osmo oils: sunflower, soybean and safflower oils, carnauba and candelilla waxes, paraffin, drying agents, polysiloxanes (based on silicon dioxide), 2-butanone oxime, dearomatized white spirit.
Osmo Single Coat Glaze and Clear Glaze
Winfried Müller: “Advertising claims that a single coat of this glaze is enough to protect the wood. I'm very skeptical and think it's a "lazy compromise". Of course, it will take less time to process the wood if the coating is applied in one layer, and the result is quite acceptable.
But there is a problem: there will always be a surface that has not been treated properly by accident, and one layer will not cover all the flaws, and a two-layer coating will solve this problem. Therefore, I believe that a coating with good protective properties is always applied in 2-3 layers. Everything else is nothing more than advertising promises.
Azure is intended for both internal and external work (except for windows - they need a coating with a thicker protective layer). After the first application, the effect is barely noticeable, unless the wood completely absorbs the composition: in this case, a transparent layer remains on the surface. After applying the second layer, a satin sheen remains in any case on the surface.
Due to its oily-liquid consistency, the azure impregnates the wood well. In places where there is resin on the tree, a shiny surface first forms, but after weathering it becomes matte.
After processing with a transparent azure, a matte sheen remains on the surface, otherwise it does not differ in any way from a single-layer azure.
Livos products
In 2003, the company with a turnover of about €4 million employed 55 employees. Now the company's products are one of the best-selling natural paints and oils on the market.
Manufacturers do not use drying agents based on cobalt salts. Of the solvents, isoaliphates are most often used, despite the fact that these substances are petroleum products, they practically do not cause allergies. Some of the company's products, along with ethanol and water, contain orange oil and turpentine.
Typically, Livos oils are liquid in consistency with sediment due to the small amount of wax they contain. When the wood treated with Livos oil dries, it acquires a uniform silky sheen.
Natural oil Koimos 196
Koimos 196 is particularly interesting for testing because it contains neither cobalt salts nor solvents. It is a good alternative for people who are allergic or sensitive to chemicals.
Winfried Müller: “Is this oil as good as the others? I think there are trade-offs to be made when using it. First, the oil dries for quite a long time. Practical tests showed that 8 hours after applying it to a glass plate, it was still liquid. After 24 hours it was pretty soft. Finally, the oil polymerized only after 4 weeks.
The second point: even after drying, the oil remains much softer than Kunos Arbeisplattenöl or natural Kunos oil.”
Since the oil contains wax, it lends itself well to polishing; the second layer of coating is actually polishing and is - after applying it to the surface with a very thin layer (about 3 g / m 2), the wood must be polished with a soft cloth, white pad or a special machine.
Parquet oil Livos Koimos 277
In terms of composition, Livos Koimos 277 parquet oil practically does not differ from the previous composition.
For a floor that is subjected to serious loads, it is worth using an oil with a stronger protective film - at least for applying the finishing layer. Oil consumption is quite small - about 30-40 g / m².
Liquid oil Livos Kunos 243
This oil is suitable for processing countertops, window sills, as well as for work in bathrooms. It is resistant to prolonged exposure to water, and the presence of wax makes it possible to polish to a shine.
Since 2012 (from lot #21281), orange oil has not been added to the composition, now it can also be used by allergy sufferers.
3 layers are enough for wood processing. The second and third are applied, respectively, 12 and 24 hours after the first. The oil dries completely a month after the top coat.
Its consumption when applied in 3 layers is approximately 65–100 g/m 2 . For the subsequent restoration of the coating, a minimum is sufficient, approximately a teaspoon per m 2.
Natural oil Livos Kunos 244 for highly loaded surfaces
Livos Kunos 244 is the multipurpose oil in the Livos range. It is suitable for processing any surfaces: floors, furniture, tables (including multiplex), children's toys.
However, this oil is from the Classic range, so people who are sensitive to chemicals may experience an allergy (this applies to processing, not subsequent use).
Natural oil is colorless or pigmented in different colors. Colorless oil almost does not differ from Kunos 241 in composition, processing technology and price.
Wood with small pores must be sanded before processing. Tests on beech have shown that with fine sanding (P180), the pigments do not stain the wood, and when sanding with P120, the color is clearly visible.
After polishing, a thin protective coating with a silky-gloss sheen is formed on the surface of the wood.
Oil for furniture Livos Darix 297
"Darix" is very similar to colored oil, but it is also suitable for fine work to achieve more color options. Surfaces that experience high loads, after the initial treatment with colorless oil, must also be treated with Darix oil. This will protect the color pigments from wear.
As with Livos Kunos 244, pre-treatment is important: dense woods absorb pigments slowly. Testing showed that when processing with abrasive P120, the color turned out to be better than after P180. The end result also depends on the color of the tree.
Direct comparison with Natural Glaze: Natural is applied thinner and stains the wood more strongly. You can remove the supernatant completely, but the color will still be well defined.
After the first treatment and drying, the supernatant is leveled with a cloth or dry brush. To apply the second layer, it is enough to wipe the surface with a cloth moistened with the composition.
AURO products
The AURO company is located next to Livos and is engaged in the production of natural paints. After Hermann Fischer - the founder of Livos - left his post in the early 80s, he founded AURO some time later. Today he still works for AURO Aktiengesellschaft. In 1992, he was named Eco-Manager of the Year (Capital/WWF).
In recent years, many water-based products have been developed to reduce the amount of solvents in oils, varnishes and paints. This transition was not always easy. Experience shows that some water-based products do not give the best results, but they do not have a negative impact on the environment. Obviously, development will continue in this direction.
AURO refrains from using petrochemical raw materials. As a solvent, if necessary, orange oil is used.
Hard wax AURO No. 171
The consistency of hard wax from AURO is pasty, slightly softer than candied honey. In the composition - only natural oils and waxes.
After application, the composition must be left for an hour, and then polished while it is still soft. Smooth the surface with a dry brush or cloth and remove excess wax. If the surface has already been treated with oil or wax, it is enough to apply a thin layer and leave it without further polishing. A thick layer will take a long time to dry and will be sticky for a long time.
The resulting protective layer is quite hard and durable, but it should not be used for countertops due to the sensitivity of wax to high temperature - even a hot cup will leave traces on the countertop.
AURO Hard Wax No. 171 is suitable for stressed surfaces and even unfinished wood. Thanks to the oils it contains, the surface of the wood becomes less susceptible to moisture, which is not the case with pure wax.
After a day, the surface dries up, but still not completely. The final wax hardens in 3-4 weeks.
Attention: in an open jar, a film quickly forms on the wax. The wax container should be closed to avoid access of oxygen to the composition.
Oil AURO for drawing in one layer No. 109
The composition of the product is flax, tung and milk thistle oil. The oil does not contain any resins and can be used by people allergic to rosin.
The consistency of the oil is quite viscous; in half an hour when applying the first layer on a beech surface, from 30 to 60 g / m² was absorbed (at a temperature of 20 ° C).
After application, the oil should be left for 30 minutes, and then the supernatant should be removed, as surface polymerization will begin after an hour and the supernatant will be difficult to remove. And if direct sunlight falls on the coating, then polymerization will occur even faster.
The oil dries completely only after a month, which is a very long time, but this is compensated by a good end result.
Solid oil for wood AURO PurSolid No. 123
This oil is suitable for the treatment of surfaces subjected to increased loads: floors, furniture, work surfaces. It contains linseed, tung and thistle oils. Resins, as in the previous case, are not used, which is important for allergy sufferers.
The consistency of the oil is similar to AURO No. 109, but less prone to polymerization within an hour. The problem, however, remains: if the “capture” process has already begun, it will be extremely difficult to remove the supernatant: even adding fresh oil does not help.
The oil is absorbed into the pores of the wood longer, but the consumption is much higher: 150 g/m² with polishing and 132 g/m² without polishing. When applying the second layer, the consumption is minimal - about 5 g / m 2.
The final oil hardens 2-4 weeks after applying the top coat. The smell from it completely disappears after 6-8 weeks.
A solvent can be added to the oil (up to 20%), but the manufacturer assures that this is not necessary for most tree species. This may be required for the processing of rocks in which there are a lot of resins (pine, larch).
It is worth noting: although the oil dries slowly, if you leave the jar open for several days, a jelly-like film forms on the surface.
Experiments on beech, spruce, pine, paulownia, oak, ash and walnut gave good results.
Solid primer AURO No. 127
Aqueous solvent primer suitable for wood pre-treatment prior to application of AURO No. 187 wax or AURO No. 267 floor finish. It is formulated with linseed, ricin, sunflower, rapeseed oils, rosin, mineral fillers, borates and several additives.
A test on beech showed that the original color of the wood was almost preserved: the primer does not penetrate only into the uppermost layer of wood and makes it insensitive to moisture and dirt. After applying the oil, the wood should be treated with a dry brush so that the primer completely penetrates the wood.
After 24 hours, the surface has dried well and can be treated with an abrasive. It is enough to use sandpaper P180-240, gently rubbing the surface. Do not sand the wood too hard: the protective effect of the primer will then be lost.
Products Biopin
Biopin Biopin is the largest manufacturer of natural dyes in Europe; not least because of the attractive prices.
Some Biopin products contain water as a solvent: you can almost completely eliminate other solvents, which is good for the environment, but can make it difficult to work with materials.
Many Biopin products were developed prior to 2009 using orange oil as a solvent. After it was recognized as an "irritant and environmentally hazardous substance", the composition of the products was changed. Biopin no longer uses orange oil and has switched to using isoaliphates.
Natural hard wax
Usually wax is applied to an already oiled surface. The consistency is like a cream, the smell resembles a lemon.
Provides additional protection to already treated surfaces. The application process is very simple: just apply the wax and rub it in with a soft cloth.
Initial drying takes from 10 to 30 minutes, the coating can be polished after 3-6 hours. Wax is relatively soft, so they should be used on surfaces that are not subjected to a lot of stress.
Worktop oil
This oil has a very low viscosity, so it can penetrate deep into the wood. A measurement by Winfried Müller showed a ratio of approx. 60% solvent to approx. 40% solid content. Previously, orange oil was used as a solvent; since 2009, isoaliphates have been used.
To apply the first layer, you need a lot of composition, because it penetrates deep into the pores of the wood. The second layer is applied more economically, so when working in two or three layers (and this is how it is recommended to use oil), the consumption is small.
Both beech and spruce showed good saturation of the wood after the second coat, but for stressed surfaces such as countertops, it is recommended to work in three coats.
The oil is easily and quickly applied, it is better to remove its excess with a rag: when applying the composition in a thin layer, a film quickly forms on the surface; too thick a layer will hinder the drying process. When in doubt, it is better to apply too thin a layer than too thick.
After surface treatment, wait 15–30 minutes (the manufacturer recommends 15 minutes) and wipe off the oil remaining on the wood with a cloth.
Oil for furniture treatment
The composition of the oil is about the same as that of the oil for countertops, but resins are indicated as additional ingredients.
It is suitable for any type of wood from Europe, in fact, it is a universal tool for wood processing.
After applying the oil, the surface should be left for 10 minutes (as the manufacturer claims), and then the supernatants should be removed. Testing on wood has shown that even after an hour, the oil does not polymerize and is easy to wipe off.
During the application of the second layer, the oil continues to be strongly absorbed into the wood. Its total consumption is up to 150–200 g/m2, but if the supernatant is removed in a timely manner, the consumption will vary from 50 to 80 g/m2, depending on the type of wood.
The oil dries quickly enough: already after 3-5 hours it hardens (as opposed to 12-24 hours for other oils) and a second layer can be applied.
Always open the jar only for a short time to keep the oil longer. Never apply directly from a can unless you intend to use the entire can soon.
solid oil
The composition of the product, in principle, remains unchanged: linseed and tung oil, isoaliphates as a solvent, resin. The ratio of solvent to solids is approximately 55 to 45.
The thinner the layer, the faster it becomes sticky (10-20 minutes after treatment). If you have not had time to remove the supernatant, you can dissolve the polymer film in fresh oil.
After polishing, the surface acquires a silky-gloss sheen. Since the oil contains quite a lot of resins, a protective layer is formed after two coats.
To work with oil, you need a lint-free cloth; paper towels will not work.
For beginners, working with oil may seem difficult, but experienced users will appreciate all its advantages.
Hard wax oil
Ingredients: linseed and tung oil, isoaliphatic solvents. Rosin and carnauba wax give additional properties to the oil.
After processing the wood, a wax film appears on its surface, which remains very soft for the first few days. Hardening takes approximately 1-2 weeks: up to this point, the surface remains tacky.
Polishing wax that has not had time to dry is difficult: 12 hours after application, work with a cloth did not bring any results. A week later, the same surface after polishing gives a beautiful silky-gloss sheen.
Leinos Products
Since 1986 Leinos has been one of the leading manufacturers of natural wood products. However, Leinos GmbH went bankrupt in 2007 and Reincke Naturfarben GmbH from Buxtehude now manufactures products under its brand.
Almost all products are hypoallergenic, but a number of impregnations contain turpentine and orange oil, which can cause allergies. In other cases, isoparaffin is used as a solvent.
Leinos interior oil
This newly developed product of the company is intended for the treatment of wooden surfaces, mainly in public places, retail outlets. The oil forms a strong protective film on the surface of the wood, probably due to the ingredients used: urea polycondensate and polysilicate nanoparticles.
The oil must be well mixed before application as it contains suspended solids which dissolve quickly. It is necessary to remove the supernatant within 20-45 minutes after application. A second layer can be applied after 5-8 hours.
Finally, it hardens, as shown by testing, after about 2-5 days.
The main problem of the composition is that it is unstable to moisture: spots appear on the surface, which is especially noticeable on beech and pine.
Leinos wood coloring oil
A liquid oil that is mixed with a reddish brown pigment. It shows its properties differently on different types of wood: on beech, for example, it lays down with a warm reddish-brown tint.
Before processing, it is necessary to carry out testing - after all, in case of an incorrect choice, the color of the wood may deteriorate.
The composition and method of application do not fundamentally differ from the previous composition. It is important to know that when working with any pigmented oil, it must be mixed well before use.
Coloring oils sometimes reveal the previously invisible structure of wood - including its defects and scratches. In order for the result not to disappoint, special attention must be paid to surface preparation.
Naturhaus Products
Naturhaus is focused on the use of renewable and natural raw materials. The company is known as a supplier of materials for the processing of large cruise ships such as the Queen Mary II, one of the largest passenger ships in the world.
Naturhaus High Solid Oil
This solid oil contains practically no solvents: it contains little orange oil (less than 5%). Nevertheless, there are drying substances - compounds of calcium, zirconium and cobalt.
The oil is easy to apply; the long polymerization time of the supernatant (about an hour) makes it easy to remove the supernatant.
For an hour of work, the oil consumption on the beech was 84 g/m 2 ; when applying the second layer - about 10-20 g / m 2. Drying time about 12 hours; complete drying takes several weeks.
Where the surface is subject to severe wear, the manufacturer recommends pre-priming with hard oil.
Naturhaus hard wax for interior use
Close in consistency to the ointment, Naturhaus hard wax contains carnauba and beeswax, linseed oil. It does not contain solvents.
The surface should be polished 1–2 hours after waxing: at this time the wax is still soft and polishing will be easy.
Wax hardens quite slowly: you have to wait 2-3 days before it becomes hard. The manufacturer says about 12 hours, but this is too little. Fully wax hardens after 7 days.
Wax in a jar will often polymerize on the surface unless oxygen is cut off.
PNZ products
PNZ has been on the market for over 20 years and since 1994 has been increasingly switching to solvent-free products.
The peculiarity is that most PNZ oils for wood are not based on linseed or tung oil, but contain thistle, poppy, walnut and rapeseed, sunflower and soybean oils.
On the one hand, this ensures the absence of a bitter smell from linseed oil. On the other hand, the used components are much more difficult to apply and obtain good results when using them.
Colored oil PNZ
This is not a classic wood oil, but rather a water-based oil paint. The manufacturer indicates that one coat is often enough: for a water-based oil, this is a very good result.
The surface dries rather quickly: after an hour, the colored oil is usually dry. Grinding, polishing and removal of the supernatant are not possible. The oil is suitable for both internal and external use.
Hard wax PNZ
This is an oil wax product that penetrates the wood to a very shallow depth and has a protective layer on the surface. It is designed for use on surfaces that are subject to heavy wear and tear such as wood floors and countertops.
Due to its slightly thick consistency, it is also suitable for wood with large pores: even in this case, the consumption remains quite low. However, the surface must be smooth, so after drying it is necessary to polish the coating under pressure.
The supernatant must be removed 10–30 minutes after application. The sediment on the surface is vigorously wiped with a cloth. Final polishing is carried out one day after the final coating. The result when applied correctly: a homogeneous, silky-gloss surface.
Beginners should not use such a composition; it is necessary to at least try to work with wax on a small area before starting work.
And the main point in the composition is water resistance. Tests on beech have shown that a short exposure to water does not affect the surface in any way. A long test (1 hour) showed disastrous results: water penetrates the wood, which begins to swell greatly. Ugly matte spots remain on the surface. If such an impact is extremely rare, it is not critical: you can make a good partial repair - sand the surface and apply the composition again.
Wood treatment oil PNZ
The composition of the product remains virtually unchanged: linseed, walnut, sunflower, poppy, rapeseed, tung and thistle oils. This provides an almost complete absence of odor, which is characteristic of impregnations based on linseed and tung mala or those containing a solvent.
On the other hand, the oil dries for a long time - complete hardening occurs 7-10 days after application. The coating remains relatively soft even after this period. It is much softer than after treatment with other oils - even the relatively soft thistle. Testing has shown that the coating, even with slight pressure, is easily scratched with a fingernail.
Despite the fact that the recommended area of \u200b\u200buse is wooden floors, this oil is not suitable for treating heavily loaded surfaces as a top coat - only as a primer on top of which a solid oil or wax is applied.
Wood wax PNZ
A water-based product that looks more like wax blue. A viscoplastic protective film with a silk sheen is formed on the treated surface.
The results of applying the first layer will not impress: the wax is almost completely absorbed into the wood and does not give shine. The second coat after polishing gives a light silky sheen.
The instructions say that the composition is well suited for the treatment of wet rooms: the treated surface has good water-repellent properties. The test showed that even after 8 hours water does not penetrate into the wood. The staining liquid left a barely visible stain on the wood after 4 hours.
PNZ wood wax is heat sensitive: a hot coffee cup is enough to damage the surface. Therefore, the material is suitable for processing tables and countertops very conditionally.
Volvox / Ecotec products
Volvox / Ecotec is a manufacturer of natural paints that has been on the market since 1989. It is a relatively small manufacturer in Lüdenscheid.
Volvox solid oil
A classic oil containing about 60% solids and about 40% solvent (isoparaffins). The oil contains prophylactic agents for the skin, (possibly butanone oximone, which is avoided by many other manufacturers of natural paints).
Dried oil is medium in hardness: a scratch is formed even if you press hard on the protective layer with your fingernail.
Products Dick GmbH
The company has been specializing in the manufacture of high quality instruments for many years; the production of oils and paints for it is a related area. The products are 100% natural oils.
Chinese tung oil Lignea
Tung oil is found in most of the treatments we've looked at above, but in this case it's a pure oil that usually dries to the touch in a week or less without drying additives.
The oil has a rather strong smell, which is sometimes described as "the smell of fried potatoes". It is very resistant and will appear even after many years if there is a lack of oxygen, so it is not recommended to treat the inner surfaces of cabinets and chests of drawers with tung oil.
In its liquid state, tung oil can irritate the skin, so wear protective gloves when handling it.
Swedish linseed oil Linolja
Pure linseed oil is available pre-oxidized or untreated. "Pre-acidification" occurs by bleaching it in the sun; it dries on the surface without desiccants within a short time (1-3 days).
Untreated oil will take more than 1 to 4 weeks to dry, which is impractical without desiccants. Swedish linseed oil is said to dry out faster.
poppy oil
Poppy oil is also completely drying; it is popular because it does not have a yellow tint and therefore is well suited for processing light woods: maple, birch. It dries much slower than linseed oil.
Poppy oil is rarely used by natural paint manufacturers: its technical properties are not as good as those of linseed or tung oil.
Commercially available poppy oil is safe and can even be used in foods. But it is strongly not recommended to pour oil from a can into the pan if you want to fry cutlets.
Camellia sinensis oil
Camellia oil is a non-drying liquid with a slightly nutty scent. In Japan, it has been used for centuries to care for knives and weapons. Oils that do not dry should not be used to treat the surface of wood. The exceptions are kitchen boards that are oiled regularly (eg Adam's wood boards).
Products Erzgebirge Steinert
Erzgebirge Steinert does not specialize in the production of natural paints, but their catalog contains oils designed and produced by Livos. Related to this is the fact that they so strongly resemble these oils both in composition and in technical characteristics.
Products
The production of natural dyes Biofa was founded in the late 70s. Information about the ingredients is completely open, so that the consumer can decide for himself what risks he is exposed to. This is especially important for allergy sufferers.
In recent years, the company has developed several solvent-free and water-free products that are nevertheless easy to use.
Oil for working surfaces Biofa 2052
Solvent-free oil contains some microlax that settles to the bottom. Therefore, before use, the composition must be shaken or mixed. The smell is rather weak, a bit like a nut.
Processing is carried out as usual: after 20-30 minutes, the supernatant must be removed. The oil penetrates the wood very slowly: a test on sanded beech for an hour showed a consumption of 46 g/m². The second layer is almost not absorbed - less than 3 g / m².
In general, wood should be treated in 2-3 layers. Depending on how well the wood absorbs the oil, even the second layer after hardening can be easily polished with a cloth. The first coat should be applied with a brush so that there is enough oil on the surface.
The composition of the oil is by no means indisputable: in addition to linseed, tung and ricin oil, it contains rosin ester, microlax, dryers based on cobalt, zirconium and manganese salts.
It is suitable for processing countertops, and can also be used as a universal oil for furniture.
Linseed oil continues to be one of the most popular wood finishes. Despite the availability of alternative coatings, which are superior to linseed oil in many respects, it is still appreciated, first of all, for its environmental friendliness, antiseptic properties, the ability to emphasize the natural texture of wood, accessibility and ease of handling. Despite the simplicity of linseed oil, many questions arise regarding the properties and features of working with this finishing coating.
Linseed oil and drying oil: understanding the concepts
Flaxseed oil is a natural substance obtained by cold or hot pressing of flaxseeds. Pure oil can be used as a stand-alone topcoat, but it is ineffective in the untreated state due to its low polymerization (drying) ability.
Speaking about the impregnation of wood with linseed oil, as a rule, they mean the use of drying oil. This is a composition modified by heat treatment and the addition of chemical additives that accelerate the polymerization process. Drying oil is also called "boiled" or "boiled" linseed oil.
Features of finishing with raw oil and drying oil
When processing wooden products with pure linseed oil, you should be prepared not only for long-term drying, which can take up to 3 days (for each layer), but also to know a number of important features. The raw product is actively absorbed into the structure of the wood, so the coating of wood with linseed oil has to be done in 5-7 or more layers. Drying on the outside, it polymerizes poorly inside, which is why a dry-looking product can leave oil stains for a long time. Exposure to ultraviolet significantly speeds up the drying process. In the sun, treated wood can dry in 6-8 hours, but the tone of the coating will change: it will become yellowish or even slightly brown.
Drying oil, due to the high polymerization rate, has completely different properties: it dries quickly, is not so actively absorbed, does not change its color. This makes it more practical to use. Regardless of the conditions, the answer to the question of how long the drying oil dries is unequivocal - no more than a day (at 20 ° C). This sets it apart from raw linseed oil. In the future, speaking about this type of finish, we will mean linseed drying oil.
Where is the best place to apply this finish?
Impregnation of wood with linseed oil does not provide a hard protective film that is resistant to scratches and abrasion. But this type of decorative finish is valued for something else, first of all - environmental friendliness, antiseptic properties, the ability to emphasize the texture of wood and keep it from cracking.
Linseed drying oil is used for finishing products used indoors. It is optimal for covering furniture surfaces that are not subject to intense abrasion, wooden walls and ceilings. She processes wooden utensils, children's toys. As a decorative and protective finish, it is appropriate to apply linseed oil to the surface of precious woods to maximize their natural qualities.
How to coat wood with linseed oil?
Training. The oil is applied to a dry and sanded surface. The moisture content of the wood must be at least 15%. Work is recommended to be carried out at a relative humidity of no more than 80%. When applying the composition to oily wood species, the prepared surface is additionally wiped with white spirit.
Application. To work, use a brush, swab or lint-free cloth. The composition is evenly distributed on the surface, and allowed to penetrate into the structure of the tree for 15-30 minutes. Excess oil that is no longer absorbed is wiped off with a cloth or swab along the fibers. Keep the oil evenly distributed on the surface to avoid staining.
Each new layer is applied after complete polymerization of the previous one with preliminary grinding. The number of necessary layers (in the case of drying oil from 1 to 4) depends on the characteristics of the product and the type of wood (small-vascular species require fewer layers due to low absorbency).
The time of complete drying of each layer is up to 24 hours.
How to restore the oil coating?
Over time, the surface impregnated with linseed oil changes its color, begins to look dry or wears off. This coating is short-lived, but this disadvantage is compensated by the ease of its restoration. When applying a second layer, the oil will hide all scratches and return the external attractiveness of the wood. If desired, linseed oil can be tinted with pigments, achieving the desired color shades. For products not subject to intensive use, the restoration procedure is carried out every two to three years.
What is oil wax and how to make it yourself?
Linseed oil with wax is an effective decorative and protective coating that gives wood high moisture-proof properties and increases its wear resistance. The impregnation adds a silky sheen to the surfaces and enhances the natural qualities of the wood. Suitable for processing light and dark woods. Completely natural impregnation is optimal for finishing wooden floors, stairs, doors, furniture and other items subject to intense wear.
Linseed oil and wood wax are easy to make yourself. The easiest way: add grated beeswax to the oil heated in a water bath and bring to a homogeneous consistency. The classic proportion by weight is 1:1. The ratio of wax and linseed oil can be varied, creating compositions of varying degrees of viscosity: from thick mastics to liquid impregnations that penetrate deep into the wood structure.
How to avoid spontaneous combustion?
The process of oil oxidation upon contact with air is accompanied by an increase in temperature, which can lead to spontaneous combustion of steam-oil rags, swabs, sponges, etc. All consumables that were used to wipe linseed oil should be thoroughly dried outdoors in a straightened state before disposal, and it is better to soak in water or immediately burn them. Sealed containers are used to store the dispenser and other tools in contact with oil.
