Or the owner of a country house is thinking about the need for a cesspool on the property. Expensive - you say? Not at all, and today you will see it. The option for installing a cesspool proposed below is extremely easy to implement and does not require you to have special construction skills or costs.
Interested? Still would! Now let’s take a closer look at what you can use to make and install a cesspool in your dacha.
We bring to your attention a cesspool made from tires.
What are its advantages?
The main thing is, of course, its low cost. There is no need to buy expensive building materials, be it bricks or concrete rings. You just need to find a couple of dozen tires. And even if you don’t have that many tires, don’t be upset, because you can always buy them at a more than affordable price or even get them as a gift. Drive through several auto repair shops in your city and make sure these words are true. Another advantage of course is that such a cesspool is very easy to install, which is very often a decisive argument in favor of a particular type of building material.
However, this type of cesspool also has several disadvantages.
The most important of them is a short service life. As a rule, the service life of such pits is ten to fifteen years, after which the pit becomes deformed and collapses. Another disadvantage is the difficulty of dismantling and repairing it.
So, after weighing all the pros and cons, you decided that there should be a cesspool of tires! Where to start?
First, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the general schematic structure of the pit and the features of its installation.
Then you should decide on the location on the site, the size and depth of your future hole. Think about how often you will visit your dacha - once every two to three weeks on weekends or arriving there every other day. As a rule, ten to fifteen tires will be enough to create a hole with optimal dimensions.
The next step is to dig a hole. To do this, measure the diameter of your existing tire and mark this diameter on the ground. It should be remembered that the hole should be dug with a slightly larger diameter than the diameter of the tires, so that in the future there will be no difficulties with installing them in the hole.
After digging a hole of the required size and volume, you should make a drainage hole in it. To do this, you need to drill a hole in the center of the hole with a drill and insert a drainage pipe with holes on the sides into the resulting hole. This is necessary so that wastewater does not stagnate in your pit and passes through the water-resistant layers of the earth. Important: the top of the drainage pipe and the side holes on its surface should be protected with a special mesh so that they do not become clogged with large particles of debris and waste.
We fill the bottom of the cesspool with crushed stone, creating a kind of foundation about ten centimeters thick. Then we begin laying tires on the resulting “cushion” of crushed stone. Please note that to ensure unimpeded drainage of water and debris, it is recommended to cut off the inner rim of each tire. This step will also prevent water from stagnating inside the tire and ensure longer operation of the cesspool.
After installing the tires, we install an inlet pipe for drains and water. To do this, use an electric jigsaw to cut out a hole on the side surface of one of the upper tires corresponding to the diameter of the inlet pipe, then insert the pipe into the resulting hole and secure it. Remember that to facilitate the flow of water through the pipe, it should be placed with a slight slope.
Important feature: tires must be laid in such a way that the last one is above ground level. We fill the space between the tires and the walls of the dug hole with earth, not forgetting to first seal the joints between the tires with sealant. To ventilate our cesspool, we install a ventilation pipe at the top of the pit, the height of which is about sixty to seventy centimeters above the ground.
Cover the pit with a lid or hatch. That's all - our cesspool is ready.
Such a cesspool, built with your own hands, is very unpretentious in operation, will serve you for several decades, and will add a lot of comfort to your life in the country.
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A self-built cesspool on a summer cottage can be an excellent solution that can replace the central sewage system. Of course, on the market today there are a huge number of different recycling systems that can become the main element of an autonomous sewer system, but they all have one drawback that does not allow such structures to reach every site - too high a cost. That is why the issue of arranging a cesspool remains relevant, and it is this issue that will be discussed in this article.
Choosing a place for a cesspool in the country
When the choice is made and the decision to build a cesspool is made, the first thing you need to do is choose a good place for its location. By and large, the choice of location is based on the capabilities of the site and personal preferences, but it is imperative to follow all the rules described in the relevant regulatory documents (in more detail: " ").The basic rules include the following:
- the drainage pit at the dacha must be located at least 12 m from the residential building;
- there must be a distance of at least 1 m between the fence and the pit;
- sewerage must be at least 5 m away from water sources;
- It is advisable not to build a cesspool near the orchard.
Size calculation
The dimensions of the drainage pit directly depend on both the number of people living in the house and the nature of the soil on the site (read: ""). For a family of three or four people, a pit with a volume of more than 18-20 cubic meters is needed: the average monthly volume of waste in this case is about 12-13 m3. Next, the soil structure comes into account. If the soil on the site has a good indicator of water permeability, then it will be enough to make a small reserve of pit volume, adding about 40% of the monthly volume of wastewater to the calculations. If the ground does not allow liquid to pass through well, then the volume should exceed the calculated one for the monthly runoff rate.
DIY cesspool installation
The most common types of sewer pits include the following:The simplest structure is brick. Knowing its dimensions, you need to purchase the required amount of material. The bottom of the brick drainage pit is concreted to simplify its further pumping. Concrete can also be used to create walls, but brickwork demonstrates better performance characteristics (more details: ""). The laying itself must be done in a checkerboard pattern to make it easier for water to penetrate into the soil.
The pit is closed from above with a ceiling or a solid slab. It is imperative to ensure that there is a hatch in this slab that will allow drainage to be pumped out of the pit. If the ceiling is not additionally insulated, then the distance between the upper edges of the walls and the ground level should be about 30 cm. When the slab is installed, it can be covered with earth, thereby creating a layer of thermal insulation that will prevent sewage from freezing.
Drainage pit made of concrete rings
Experts say that a do-it-yourself cesspool in a country house, made of concrete rings, can last about 100 years. There are reasons for this statement: firstly, concrete itself is quite strong and can withstand high loads, and secondly, this material resists well the effects of fermentation and rotting, which often occur in wastewater. In addition to a long service life, a pit made of concrete rings can boast complete independence from the type of soil and the nature of the movement of groundwater, does not pollute the latter at all, and is quite easy to install, not to mention use.When the location for the pit has been chosen and its dimensions have been calculated, you can begin selecting suitable rings. In most cases, the best option is factory-made products, and together with them it is worth ordering special equipment that will not only simplify the delivery of the rings, but will also install them directly at the installation site - most companies provide such services.
The process of creating a drainage pit begins with the bottom, which must be filled with concrete mortar made in a ratio of 1:6 (cement and crushed stone, respectively). The solution is poured into the hole and leveled. After a few days the mixture will completely harden. If the ambient temperature at the time of construction is high, the solution must be regularly sprayed with water, otherwise cracks will appear in the hardened concrete, the occurrence of which is inevitable when the solution hardens too quickly.
After waiting for the concrete to completely harden, you can begin laying the rings. Having installed all the rings and aligned their position, it is necessary to insulate all seams. Bicycle tubes, rubber gaskets or liquid glass can be used as a sealant. When using liquid glass, you should also add it to the cement solution, and then coat the gaps between the rings with the resulting mixture.
As a rule, internal waterproofing is a sufficient condition for the normal functioning of the structure, but if the level of soil water is high, it is worth insulating the pit from the outside to protect it from moisture. When mounting the rings, you should take care of connecting them to each other: for this purpose, you can use rings that are equipped with special “locks”. Conventional concrete rings are attached to each other with metal brackets. A floor slab equipped with a hole for a hatch is installed above the upper ring.
Creation of a septic tank
To create a complete system capable of acting as a septic tank, you will need another hole, and its depth must exceed the depth of the previous one. The second cesspool at the dacha is created with your own hands a little differently. Firstly, the bottom of the structure does not need to be filled with concrete: it is enough to install the rings in the prepared pit. Secondly, the upper rings of both pits must have special holes in which pipes will be installed to ensure the overflow of wastewater between the pits. The depth required to lay the pipe will depend on the dimensions of the pit and local climatic conditions. For example, in cold regions the pipe is installed approximately 80 cm from the ground surface.For high-quality septic tank operation, it is advisable to use biological preparations that allow the system to process wastewater into harmless substances. While being purified, the wastewater will flow from the first reservoir into the second, through the bottom of which it can go into the soil. Many biological products have a high purification coefficient: some substances are capable of removing 98% of all harmful substances from water, after which it can be used to water the garden or garden trees.
Having created a hole and mounted the rings, a drain pipe is laid. The slope of the pipe should be about 15 degrees. The average pipe diameter is approximately 15 cm: with this diameter, wastewater can pass through the system unhindered. Having completed the installation of all structural elements, you need to test it by performing a control descent. If everything works fine, then the pit and pipe are buried, after which the work on creating a septic tank is considered completed.
Plastic cesspool at the dacha
Cesspools, for the construction of which plastic tanks are used, are considered to be quite simple in their design (more details: "").Such a cesspool at the dacha is created with your own hands according to the following principle:
- Choosing a location for the pit;
- Digging a pit;
- Installation of a concrete pad;
- Creation of a 10 cm sand layer;
- Installation of a tank in a pit;
- Filling the hole with a mixture of concrete and sand in a ratio of 1:5;
- Backfilling the structure with a layer of soil.
Conclusion
All the described options for waste pits are in demand and are in demand. Regardless of the type of construction chosen, the relevant rules and regulations must always be followed, and the system will function normally for several decades.
After purchasing a plot for a country house or dacha, the new owner is faced with the question of how to make a cesspool? You can’t go a day without this attribute on the site. Depending on the period of stay in a country house or country house, it is necessary to choose the type of toilet.
Original outdoor toilet for a summer residence
For year-round living in a house outside the city or frequent holidays in the country, when you need to use a shower and a sink every day, in addition to the toilet, it is necessary to build a cesspool toilet. If the dacha is used as a place to relax on weekends, then it is enough to build a cesspool with your own hands to collect sewage under it.
There is no general requirement for choosing a site due to the differences in soil composition, landscape, and availability of access roads. But the location of the toilet and cesspool is strictly regulated by building codes and regulations.
According to them:
If the site is rugged, you should not choose a low place for construction, since the cesspool will be filled with melt and rainwater. If you choose a high elevation of the site, there is a possibility that the toilet will collapse due to erosion of the soil. An important factor when choosing a location is the prevailing wind direction in the area.
When using a sewage truck to pump out sewage, you need to take care of its convenient and safe access, taking into account that the standard hose length is 10–15 meters, of which about three meters are immersed directly into the pit.
Characteristics of cesspools
The cesspool is intended for collecting domestic wastewater and sewage for individual buildings where there is no central sewerage system. According to its characteristics, it is divided into filtered and hermetic.
Example of a filtered cesspool Filtered or absorbent cesspool
A characteristic feature of the pit is the absence of a bottom in the structure, which is why sewage, passing through filter elements such as sand, crushed stone, brick waste, enters the soil. This reduces the number of calls to the sewage disposal truck and saves money. The construction of such an object does not require much skill from the performer. However, if a large volume of water is consumed, then the cesspool and the soil are not able to accept it.
Summer cottages, where the volume of sewage per day is up to 1 m³, are mainly equipped with a filtered septic tank directly above the toilet cabin.
In country houses and dachas, an absorption pit is often used in separate sewers for use under domestic wastewater: bacteria for cesspools have time to process particles of shampoos, powders and other similar elements before they enter the soil.
This is what an absorbent cesspool looks like The main condition for canceling the construction of a filtered septic tank is the presence of soil water at a depth of two meters or higher from the surface.
Sealed cesspool
The methods for constructing a hermetic septic tank are identical to the absorbed one, with the exception of installing the bottom and high-quality sealing of the pit throughout the entire volume. For this purpose, bitumen is suitable for insulation inside the container and clay - outside.
Septic tank as a component of a treatment facility
To solve the problem of receiving and purifying sewage, they use. This is a technically challenging design that allows for wastewater treatment using biological products. The simplest is a container with a cushion of sand and crushed stone laid on the bottom, through which the crude mixture passes.
An example of a multi-chamber septic tank for a home A more complex septic tank design consists of two or three tanks connected to each other by overflow sewer pipes. In the first, mechanical wastewater treatment is performed, in the second, bacteria are used for cesspools, bringing wastewater and liquid to a state suitable for technical needs.
Installing a third tank increases the degree of purification to 60% of the initial degree of contamination due to the settling of particles in the liquid. In addition, sediment in the form of sludge can provide valuable fertilizer for the garden. However, building a septic tank is a rather labor-intensive and costly operation.
Materials for building a septic tank
The cesspool structure can be constructed from a variety of building materials. Depending on the complexity of the work and the level of funds, septic tanks are built from brick, plastic containers, monolith, and concrete rings. 
There are craftsmen who build a cesspool at their dacha from large used tires.
Calculation of the size of the cesspool
To calculate the size of the hole, you need to provide the following:
- The number of people living in a house or country house, subject to the consumption of 180 liters of water per day per person;
- Soil composition. Thus, clayey soil is reluctant to allow liquid to pass through, and the volume of the septic tank must be built with a reserve;
- The margin from the surface of the site to the filled cesspool must be at least 1 m to prevent sewage from leaving the boundaries of the cesspool during heavy rainfall;
- The depth of the septic tank should be no more than three meters, as this is the optimal height for the productive operation of the sewer machine.
Cesspool ventilation
The potential for unpleasant odors from a cesspool forces us to seriously consider the issue of equipping it with ventilation for air circulation.
Sump ventilation diagram If the manufacturer has already provided channels for ventilation in the factory plastic container, then when the cesspool is built from other building materials, it is necessary to lay holes for the ventilation pipe.
Good sealing of the floor slab and a tightly closing well hatch through which cesspools are pumped out will help reduce the smell emitted by the pit. In sanitary premises, it is enough to install a pipe with a diameter of 50 cm on the roof along the channels used for exhaust from a gas boiler or ventilation of the building.
To install ventilation in a cesspool toilet, it is enough to install a plastic or asbestos pipe with the lower end into the hole, through the floor, at 15 cm, and with the upper end into the roof of the toilet at a height of 20–30 cm from it.
The diameter of the pipe must be at least 100 mm. A deflector is installed on top to protect against precipitation and increase ventilation draft.
Drawing for making septic tank ventilation Instead of damaging your country toilet by drilling holes, you can fix the exhaust pipe on its back wall. The effect will be the same.
Maintenance of septic tank and cesspool with drugs
If at the dacha the volume of sewage is less than 1 m³, and it does not contain impurities from chemical elements, then the microorganisms present in the soil will themselves clean the wastewater, and this issue will not bother the owner. If the volume is larger, then various means and preparations are used to speed up cleaning.
A chemical cleaning agent for cesspools can be as follows:
Biological products for cesspools are designed to decompose household and fecal sewage with the help of natural microorganisms, for which fats, proteins, cellulose, starches and feces are the basis for their energy production. They are used for various types of wastewater and large volumes of their use.
The most popular biological products by type of use are:
- For cesspools and pits: Doctor Robik, Sanex, Micropan.
- For dry toilets: Biola, Biofresh, Sannifresh.
Features of biological products in a septic tank
The biological product Doctor Robik is recognized as the most effective remedy, as it contains concentrated bacteria for cesspools and can process complex compounds and easily break down tissues, phenols and fats.
Biological products that have entered the consumer market are successfully replacing chemicals that threaten human health and nature, accelerate the wear of metal products, and have a negative impact on the service life of the cesspool.
One and, perhaps, the most important drawback of a biological product for cesspools is that, unlike a chemical agent that acts at any ambient temperature, the antiseptic is productive at air temperatures from +4 to +30 degrees.
That is why the issue is so acute in the cold season. 
The performance of biological products may decrease for the following reasons:
- With irregular use of sewerage. First of all, this concerns the country septic tank. Microorganisms will work unproductively and may even die. Therefore, simple sewerage should not be allowed for more than two weeks. The ideal level of liquid above solids is at least two centimeters.
- When household chemicals containing chlorine enter the sewer system. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a biological product whose performance does not decrease even when chlorine and other chemical components enter wastewater.
- When antibacterial filters, manganese or drugs penetrate into sewage.
Mechanical maintenance of septic tank
In a country house or country house, septic tanks require periodic maintenance, and when they are full, cesspools must be pumped out. 
Pumping out by machine
Entrusting the pumping of sewage to enterprises that have sewage disposal equipment is not a problem. All you need to do is contact us and determine the time for the work to be completed. Untimely pumping of cesspools can lead to wastewater overflow, and eliminating this oversight will be very difficult and unpleasant. Good specialists will clean the septic tank efficiently and solve the problem of waste disposal, but it will be quite expensive.
If there is a septic tank with a small volume on the site, then you can do the work of cleaning it yourself.
Manual pumping with pump
Cleaning of cesspools is carried out both with and without a pump. The choice of fecal pumps on the market is very diverse in both cost and performance. There are pumps with a cutting device, which eliminates clogging of the hose. 
Cleaning can also be carried out using a water pump with a pre-installed filter on it.
Before starting work, it is necessary to find a sealed, tightly closing container of sufficient volume. The cesspool pump will pump sewage into it.
Manual pumping without pump
Cleaning a pit without a pump is done using a bucket on a strong rope and a shovel. Manual cleaning of cesspools is carried out by scooping up sewage with a bucket and moving it into a container. This process is extremely unpleasant and dirty.
The only advantage of manually cleaning the pit is better removal of sludge and solids from the walls and bottom of the septic tank.
After cleaning, the collected sewage must be disposed of in specially designated areas. Therefore, it is worth repeatedly calculating the benefits of using a sewage disposal machine that will do this job. 
When designing a cesspool for a country toilet, you should carefully approach the issue of choosing a place for it in the garden. First of all, measurements are carried out in accordance with the requirements of SNiP 2.04.03-85 “Sewerage. External networks and structures" (in particular, you are interested in table No. 1; further we will provide figures based on it).
The cesspool must be located at a distance of at least 8 m from your own residential building and at least 10 m from neighboring ones. You need to retreat at least 20 m from the centralized water supply, and at least 5 m from the gas supply pipes. The distance from the fence with the neighboring plot should be at least 1 m, and from outbuildings and fruit trees - at least 5 m.
Before starting excavation work, a drawing of the site and neighboring buildings is drawn up. The location for the future pit is selected taking into account the above standards, after which the selected point from the diagram is marked on the territory.
In some cases (when the site is located next to an open reservoir), the placement of a cesspool should be coordinated with the State Sanitary and Epidemiological Supervision and environmental authorities.
Also, before digging a pit, you should find out the location of groundwater in the area. It is especially important to carry out this activity if you plan to install a container with natural filtration of waste into the soil. The lower part of such a well should not cross the groundwater level.
Cesspool options
There are two main options for sump design:
- without bottom;
- with bottom.
When constructing a cesspool with your own hands without pumping, it means that waste is absorbed through the open bottom into the soil. To assemble such a cesspool, concrete rings, old tires, metal barrels, bricks, monolithic concrete or concrete blocks can be used. In the case of a cesspool that needs to be pumped out periodically, ready-made plastic containers are used.
To choose the appropriate option for the site, you need to understand the features and key differences between the two systems.
Sump with natural filtration
Most often, cesspools without a bottom are assembled from reinforced concrete rings. This material is durable, not afraid of aggressive environments, and is easy to install.
This system is suitable for both seasonal and permanent residence. The rings are installed on a sand and gravel bed, which filters wastewater, passing it through itself into the soil. To improve the quality of cleaning, it is recommended to pour solutions with anaerobic microorganisms into such cesspools.
A pit with an open bottom is placed at a distance of at least 5 m from the foundation of the building and 20 m from the water supply. The depth of the pit depends on the groundwater level; the lower part must be at least 0.5 m below the groundwater level.
Open-bottom cesspools must be approved by the relevant services, otherwise the owners risk receiving a fine.
Sump with bottom
Systems with a bottom are installed in areas with clay soils and low groundwater level. In this case, filtration of wastewater through the ground is impossible, and therefore a storage option is used. The size of the container must correspond to the level of water consumption in the house, but if more than 4 people permanently live, you will need to purchase special sewer systems.
To dispose of accumulated waste, you have to call a sewer truck, therefore, when placing a cesspool on a site, you should take into account the possibility of access by special vehicles.
Cesspools with a bottom require the mandatory organization of ventilation pipes that remove gases formed during the work of microorganisms during wastewater treatment.
Required materials and tools
To independently install a country toilet with an odorless pit cesspool, you will need the following tools:
- angle grinder;
- shovel;
- building level;
- buckets;
- perforator;
- drill with a set of drills.
Materials you will need:
- container for accumulating waste (metal barrels, bricks, concrete rings, tires);
- sewer pipes, diameter 100-110 mm;
- a set of pipes and couplings;
- geotextiles;
- sealant;
- slate;
- sand;
- fine gravel;
- cement;
- waterproofing mastic.
Calculation of the cesspool
When calculating, the following standards should be taken into account:
- Almost 200 liters of waste water per person per day. Thus, the monthly volume of wastewater in a family of four will be at least 20 m3 (the indicator is important when calculating the volume of a sealed container);
- when constructing pits with an open bottom, it should be taken into account that the filtration of wastewater in sandy soils is 15% faster than in loams;
- a one-time volume of sewage removal does not exceed 10 m3, which is equal to the volume of approximately four concrete rings with a diameter of 2000 mm;
- When calculating the volume of a container, you should take a safety margin of at least 10%, since it is not always possible to quickly call a sewer truck.
Marking and excavation work
When preparing a pit for a cesspool, the following rules and recommendations must be observed and taken into account:
- The marking is carried out according to the plan for linking the cesspool to the buildings on the site.
- The diameter of the pit should exceed the diameter of the concrete rings, tires or barrels by 300-400 mm, so that the walls do not interfere with installation.
- The depth of the pit should exceed the height of the rings by 200-300 mm, which will be required to create a sand and gravel cushion.
- If a non-filtering well made of concrete rings is being installed, a monolithic slab is poured at the bottom or ready-made slabs are laid, after which the joints between them are carefully sealed. You can put rings in the well after the concrete base has fully gained strength.
Instructions for constructing a cesspool
Let's consider the procedure for constructing cesspools made of various materials.
Concrete rings
The design of this structure resembles an ordinary well.
How to dig a pit for concrete rings? To a given depth (at least 0.5 m below the ground level), with a width slightly larger than the size of the ring. Depending on the type of pit, the bottom can act as a filter or be completely monolithic.
To connect the pit to the toilet, a trench is dug into which sewer pipes are laid. In the summer, the pipes will work without interference, but in order to prevent the drains from freezing in winter, the pipes are insulated.
The well is closed with a concrete lid with a hatch for pumping out sewage.
Car tires
The pit is dug with a width exceeding the diameter of the tires by 300-400 mm. A sand and gravel cushion 200 mm thick is placed at the bottom. The tires are laid one on top of the other with the joints sealed with plumbing sealant. The lid is made of boards or plywood with mandatory treatment with antiseptic agents.
Monolithic concrete
The pit is made with a margin of 500 mm in width. The formwork is being prepared, inside which the reinforcing mesh is laid. Cement-sand mortar for pouring is prepared from M300 cement in a 1:2 ratio with sand.
After pouring concrete, you need to wait at least 10 days for sufficient strength to develop. The finished concrete ring is coated with waterproofing mastic. A sand and gravel cushion 200 mm thick is placed at the bottom of the pit. The cesspool cover with a hole for pumping can also be cast from concrete.
Metal barrel
This option is suitable for houses with no more than 2 inhabitants and for sandy soils with low groundwater levels.
Holes with a diameter of 10-15 mm are made in the walls of a metal barrel with a volume of 200 liters in increments of 200 mm, and the outside is wrapped in geotextile along the height, securing it with wire.
The lid is hermetically secured along the diameter and a hole is cut for the inlet sewer pipe.
The pit is dug to a depth exceeding the height of the barrel by 300 mm; the bottom of the pit should be filled 200 mm with fine gravel. The side voids are also filled with gravel.
Brick
Let's look at the step-by-step organization of a brick pit:
- a pit is dug to the size of the future cesspool;
- a sand and gravel cushion 200 mm thick is made at the bottom of the pit;
- along the perimeter of the pit, according to the size of the masonry, formwork is arranged and a monolithic concrete slab is poured;
- After the foundation has gained strength, they begin laying brick walls. The easiest way is to make a well in a square or rectangular shape. The thickness of the wall is one brick;
- the outside and inside of the walls are plastered with clay mortar;
- a sewer pipe is laid in the trench connecting the pit and the toilet in the house;
- the cesspool cover is made of boards or cast from concrete, providing a hole for a hatch with a diameter of 500 mm.
After installing a country toilet with a cesspool, you should consider a sewage pumping system, even if natural filtration into the soil is assumed.
When using anaerobic microorganisms, feces are processed directly inside the container, but it will not be possible to filter and process waste in a filtration well without residue. From time to time, such systems need to be completely pumped out to clean the walls and replace the drainage.
If a pit with a bottom is installed in a private house, pumping will have to be done much more often. A sewer truck is ordered as the pit is filled with sewage, since there is simply nowhere for the liquid to go. Therefore, when owners plan to install a cesspool for a toilet in a country house, they need to provide convenient access for the machine to the well, taking into account that the length of the sewer hose is usually from 10 to 20 m.
The decision to make a cesspool yourself remains the ideal choice for a situation where it is impossible to connect to the central sewer system. Such a structure solves the problem of ensuring the removal of waste and sewage for a private home. The choice of this option is due to simple installation, easy maintenance and small financial investments required for construction and further operation.
The very structure of this simplest and most ancient sewer system is a depression dug and equipped with walls in the ground, intended for collecting and partially processing wastewater. Partially filtered liquid enters the soil below, and the accumulated residue must be removed periodically so as not to overload the container.
A light wooden structure is installed above the recess. After filling the hole, the upper part is removed and the remaining space is filled with earth. The accumulated elements undergo a process of decay and turn into compost. Fruit trees planted here will thrive in a fertilized area. And you can use the new building. 
But this method is clearly insufficient for the needs of a large building in which many people constantly live. In this case, large volumes of waste require modern structures with walls made of various materials. Most often used for these purposes:
- brick is an excellent masonry option even for beginners;
- concrete rings, the delivery and installation of which requires special equipment;
- cost-effective method of arrangement from tires;
- metal barrels that prevent the side surfaces from falling off;
- The use of ready-made plastic barrels has a long service life - more than 40 years.
It is worth mentioning a convenient and modern option - the use of septic tanks. These products are made in multi- and single-chamber modifications. The most complete and deep waste cleaning occurs in models equipped with several chambers. Purified water is suitable for watering gardens.
The construction of a cesspool involves the installation of two types - sealed and filtering. In the first case, wastewater accumulates until it is pumped out. The second provides for the presence of holes in the walls for partial penetration of waste into the ground. To carry out filtration around the tank, you will need to lay a gravel-sand layer with a thickness of at least 15 cm.
According to sanitary safety requirements, there must be at least 1 m of soil from the bottom of an infiltration-type structure to the groundwater table.
The purpose of such a recess is drainage from storm sewers and drainage.
With a large amount of household waste, there is always a danger of soil contamination, which can only be prevented by installing a sealed system.
Principles of design and preparation of waste pits
A carefully designed project and competent planning will help to avoid problems during the construction process in terms of existing norms and regulations. First of all, attention should be paid to the most important points:
- Safe location in terms of sanitary requirements.
- The choice of system type depends on the specifics of the site and housing construction.
- Determine the dimensions of the recess.
- Plan the technology of work in advance.
- Prepare appropriate materials.
Each of the items in the list has its own nuances, the implementation of which is very important for safe and reliable operation.
- The place where the structure will be located must be remote from fences, residential buildings, and wells. From a drinking water tank, for example, the distance is maintained at least 25 meters, and from the house - starting from 5 meters.
- For existing relief irregularities Placement at the bottom of the site should be avoided. Flooding during periods of heavy rains and melting snow threatens contamination of the soil and groundwater. Construction technology is selected based on the characteristics of the soil in the surrounding area.
- Dimensions are primarily calculated taking into account the number of residents. The planned daily volume per person is 0.5-2.0 cubic meters. m of waste. The need to pay for each call of equipment used to pump out a cesspool after it is filled requires adhering to one more rule - making the volume of the structure a multiple of the capacity of the sewer truck.
- The problem of drainage drainage is solved using perpetual cesspool technology. The design feature of this method is the construction of two containers connected to each other by a special pipe at a certain slope. After filling the first tank, the liquid flows into the second. This technique allows you to significantly increase the area of soil for water drainage, and only large fractions and feces will accumulate in the main pit.
- A do-it-yourself cesspool of a sealed design is a recess with a concreted bottom. The main advantage of such a device is complete isolation of sewage and the absence of any odors on the site and in the house itself. But relative The disadvantage is fast filling and frequent pumping, especially in the presence of washing machines and dishwashers, intensive use of the bath and shower.
A careless approach to planning and performing installation work threatens with the following consequences:
- unpleasant “aroma” inside the building and on the site;
- freezing of residual water inside the drain pipes;
- penetration of harmful substances into the soil.
Careful execution will create a favorable and comfortable environment for living and relaxing. You only need to clean the cesspools on time and periodically monitor the condition of the system.
Let us consider in more detail the features of the construction of different types of such sewer systems.
Construction of a brick cesspool
- as far as possible from any buildings;
- take into account the direction of groundwater flow;
- provide access for the sewer truck.
Sizes are always an individual choice. There is no doubt that a deeper device will require less frequent cleaning, but one should never forget about the level of soil water. The bottom cannot be placed closer than 30 cm to them.
How to make a cesspool if water is close to its location?
In this case, there is simply no alternative to the sealed type of device. In case of shallow depth, you can increase the length dimensions or use a design of several tanks. But digging more than 3 meters is not recommended, even in dry soil.
The standard option for a residential building with 4-5 people living in it is a depth and diameter of 3 meters.
Buy only red ceramic bricks. Silicate and cinder blocks will get wet pretty quickly and will be unusable. The best material is burnt brick, rejected for construction due to its irregular shape.
The construction process consists of several main stages:
- Digging a pit is the most labor-intensive procedure. With manual work, two people can dig a 1.5 x 3 m hole in sandy soil within a couple of days. But clay soil will cause many difficulties and will require the use of hired workers or an excavator. The shape for the pit is usually chosen in the form of a glass with a slight expansion towards the top, which gives additional reliability.
- The foundation should begin with the process of backfilling the soil with gravel and sand. This layer is poured with concrete with preliminary installation of reinforcement. Usually the thickness of this layer is 15-20 cm and depends on the diameter of the pit.
- Wall masonry is done in half a brick for a size, and in brick for a large diameter. The proportion of cement and sand in the solution is usually 1:3 and 1:4. After completing this stage, bitumen mastic is applied to the walls.
- A ready-made pancake with a hatch hole of the appropriate size and a self-molded lid are used.
- Finally, the ceiling is covered with a layer of earth. with the hatch cover located slightly above ground level.
Video of arranging a brick cesspool:
Over time, any structure becomes clogged. Various methods are used for cleaning. Biological products for cesspools remain one of the best methods for ensuring accelerated decomposition of waste and increasing the service life of such sewer systems.
How to make a concrete cesspool
The use of such elements will be an ideal option for the safety of soil and plants located near the wastewater storage area.
In the usual version, 2-3 concrete rings with a diameter of 1.5 m and a meter in height will be required. If a family of 3-4 people lives in a house, then to pump out the total volume of the structure of 4.5 cubic meters. We will have to call a special vehicle on average once a quarter. 
How to make a cesspool in a private house from concrete rings - sequence of installation work:
- at the required slope below the freezing point of the soil, the drain pipes leaving the building are laid and insulated;
- a pit is dug with a width exceeding the diameter of the rings by 80-90 cm. A 30 cm cushion of sand, fragments of brick or gravel is poured into the bottom of the recess;
- a crane or winch will be needed to lower the concrete elements;
- first, place the ring with the bottom, using a building level to avoid vertical and horizontal distortions;
- a layer of waterproofing made of bitumen mastic is applied to the internal surface and joints;
- the free space is filled up and thoroughly compacted;
- A reinforced concrete slab is laid on the last ring and a metal or polymer cover is attached.
There is a high probability of accumulation of methane and sulfur gas in the container, released during decay. To remove them, a ventilation pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is installed.
How to make a concrete cesspool video:
Instructions for making sealed and filtration cesspools
After selecting the location area for the drain tank and having all the calculations, you can begin excavation work. Using earth-moving equipment or manually, a pit of the required dimensions is prepared. Usually, an excavator is used for such events, but the specifics of the site do not always allow special equipment to arrive at the required location.
In such a situation, you can use the old, proven method - install one ring in place and begin to remove soil from under the walls with a shovel. It is important to control the level of the product. After leveling the upper cut of the element with the soil level, another ring is set and soil sampling continues in a similar way.
To make a cesspool yourself, you will need to prepare materials for the walls, formwork boards and prepare the following components:
- sand and cement the required brand for mixing the solution;
- crushed stone and rubble for the manufacture of a filtration layer;
- reinforcement or rod useful for arranging the lid;
- corner or suitable metal for making a hatch with frame;
- waterproofing materials;
- suitable container and buckets for solution;
- mason's tools;
- plumb line, construction cord and level;
- set of bayonet and shovel.
For large-scale work, you can rent or ask your neighbors for a concrete mixer.
Decoration of cesspool installation sites
Disguising the sewer from prying eyes will not be difficult due to the layer of earth with which it is covered. After this, there are many ways to decorate - sowing a lawn, laying out a flower bed, planting shrubs. Sewer hatches are decorated with stone and wooden elements. The owner of the site can show all his imagination and creative ingenuity in this process.
The photos below show examples of beautiful decor.
An excellent example of making a luxurious cover that is equipped with a septic tank for cesspools can be viewed in the video:
How much does it cost to make a cesspool on the site?
When determining the costs of constructing a sewer collector, one should proceed from the fact that equipping a small tank is not economically feasible. It is best to start calculating the total cost for devices from 3000 liters. Several major factors influence your financial investments. To make a cesspool the price of which matches your capabilities, you should analyze the following parameters:
- costs of materials for the selected type of device;
- prices for the services of specialists involved in construction.
For example, let’s take a cesspool structure made of two rings of one and a half meters in diameter. These elements are supplied with a neck, the presence of which will allow you to completely hide the main part below ground level.
If you order turnkey installation, the cost estimate includes:
- A complete set of materials, including concrete preparation components, waterproofing and hatch.
- Delivery depending on the distance to the installation site.
- Digging and subsequent backfilling of the pit.
- Installation measures for installing rings.
- Concreting the bottom of the well.
Currently, all these stages will cost the customer 30,900 rubles.
When performing such work on your own, professional builders recommend paying attention to the following points:
- To fill a three-cube tank, you will need about one and a half cubic meters of soil. It can be left, and the remainder can be removed immediately after the foundation pit has been constructed;
- Having concreted the bottom, let the mixture sit for 10-12 days to achieve optimal strength;
- brickwork cannot be done very smoothly. It is hidden from view and performs the main function of keeping the soil from crumbling;
- for formwork it is best to take a profiled sheet or board;
- bayoneting the mixture used to fill the floor helps ensure good filling of the reinforcement cage;
- carefully compact and level the soil around the entire perimeter and on top of the well.
An extensive selection of designs allows you to build a device according to your financial capabilities and needs. One of the main conditions remains compliance with sanitary standards in terms of protection against environmental pollution.
