As you may remember, I didn't have enough lumber to finish building the shed and the completion of the job had to be delayed. And finally, after 2 seasons, I started last stage the buildings.
The boards I needed were left over from building the house, which I will talk about in another section of the site. All that remains is to buy two wooden doors with frames and the necessary hardware: door hinges(left), handles, as well as fire protection for wood with maple and pine colors.
If you remember, I left the barn in this unfinished state:
I started work, perhaps, from the very difficult moment– assembly and installation of door frames. I bought solid wood doors, and as a box, each door was accompanied by a set in the form of three bars with cuts made in them for door leaf. Therefore, we had to take measurements, cut these bars taking into account the door gaps and connect them into a box.
We install the internal door.
I started with the installation interior door leading to that part of the barn that I prepared for a small workshop.
On the one side assembled box secured it to a vertical wall beam, on the other hand, to secure the box, I installed a vertical stand from a scrap of forty board, fortunately there were quite a lot of such two-meter scraps left over when making the rafters.
Next we had to tinker a little with installing the hinges. To do this, I first set the lower gap between the door and the frame using slipped corners - they are convenient to adjust the gap by increasing or decreasing it by hammering or pulling out the corner.
Then, having marked the locations of the top and bottom hinges, using a set of chisels, I selected excess wood (about 2-3 mm) so that when installed, the hinge would sink slightly into the frame and door leaf.
Having attached the upper and lower hinges to the door with a pair of self-tapping screws, I placed suitable pieces of wood under the door leaf and, adjusting the hinges to their places, finally secured the door in the frame.
Install outer door.
Using the same principle, I installed an external door to the barn. Only in this case, as a second vertical support for the door frame, I used a piece of timber and a piece of magpie board on top. I also secured them with steel corners and sewed them on the side diagonally with self-tapping screws.
It was necessary to use 100x100 timber due to the convenience of attaching the outer wall boards, as well as in the future door frames, under vertical board which we leave a gap in the thickness of the board used (approximately 25 mm).
Important! Let me remind you that I processed all the boards from the front (outside) side with an electric planer. At the same time, we save wood impregnation and also increase the wood’s resistance to adverse conditions. external influences water.
For the convenience of working with a plane, I slightly modernized the sawhorses for sawing firewood, namely: I screwed two planks to the “horns” of the sawhorses with self-tapping screws. Now it has become convenient to place a whole board on them and go through them with a plane.
We cover the walls with boards.
Well, then everything is as simple as shelling pears - we saw the board to size and sew it in place where it should be.
Internal wall, between the woodshed and the workshop, I sewed up the boards end-to-end, having previously processed them with a plane on all sides, paying attention Special attention"ribs" to minimize gaps. Of course, they still form when the wood dries, well, for aesthetics...))
Co external wall I had to tinker a little so that the boards didn’t start to “peck” up or down. To control, I used a level and also took measurements along the sheathed wall through the door for each board from the bottom.
Having finished sewing up the outer front wall, I left an unsewn area above the door for installing a small canopy there in the future. A little lower you will see what I meant.
Having finished painting, I began manufacturing and installing the door frames and the canopy over the door. Well, there’s nothing special to explain, everything can be seen in the photograph.
To make doors, manufacturers are increasingly using composite materials, plastic, steel. However, the tree has not lost its popularity. Durable and warm material ideal for entrance doors to the house. From the boards they independently assemble the canvas for outbuildings and baths. Making a wooden door with your own hands is not difficult. You just need to have good board and a set of tools.
When producing wooden doors, you need to know the advantages and disadvantages of the material. The final result depends on this. The main difference between wood is its hardness. Soft woods are easy to work with, but are less resistant to moisture. This material is suitable for interior doors. Process hard wood hand tools difficult, but the material is more resistant to moisture. This wood is suitable for making entrance doors.
When talking about wood species, it is worth considering the resin content of the material. Larch takes first place in this regard. A product made from it will withstand dampness for a long time. Resin protects against rotting.
The following requirements apply to choosing a board:
- minimum number of knots;
- wood moisture content no more than 15%;
- perfect evenness.
For outbuildings, used material taken from the dismantling of old buildings is suitable. Beautiful doors It is better to make one for the house from a new board.
Hardwood
- Birch quite hard and difficult to process, but has an attractive texture.
- Beech characterized by increased strength, but deforms with changes in humidity.
- Alder soft and with high humidity rots quickly.
- Oak hard, tends to split, but is resistant to dampness and beautiful.
- Nut It has an interesting texture, is easy to process, and is not afraid of moisture and mechanical stress.
- Maple moderately hard, well processed, moderately resistant to dampness.
For the manufacture of wooden entrance doors, oak or beech is most often used.
Conifers
- From coniferous species considered the most popular pine. Soft wood is easy to process, but does not withstand moisture well. The material is best used in the manufacture of wooden interior doors.
- Larch characterized by a beautiful texture and great resinity. Solid wood perfectly resists moisture, which makes it possible to use the board for assembling entrance doors.
- Spruce knotty, lighter and softer than pine, slightly inferior in strength.
Tools
In production, special machines are used to make wooden doors.
- Reismus necessary for processing the board. The most productive are double-sided planing machines, which clean the workpiece in one pass.
- Without milling machine Manufacturing wooden doors is not possible. It is used to make locking joints on boards, select chamfers, and process shaped workpieces.
- When pasted on wooden frame linings are used press.
- Circular saw loosen the board to the desired size.
To make wooden ones with your own hands at home interior doors, no one will buy expensive machines. An electric one is suitable for unraveling the board. disk saw.
You can select grooves and process the surface of the workpieces manual router.
Additionally, you should have on hand:
- drill;
- screwdriver;
- wood hacksaw;
- grinder;
- chisels, mallet, corner, level, tape measure.
To paint the door leaf, it is advisable to use a compressor with an air gun.
Necessary materials
For the manufacture of wooden door do it yourself you will need the following materials:
- dry tongue and groove board;
- self-tapping screws;
During the purchase, the thickness of the boards is selected taking into account the installation location of the door leaf. For an interior door, 25 mm thick wood is sufficient. For the front door, use a 50 mm thick board. After purchasing, it is advisable to dry the wooden blanks by laying them on a flat surface using pads.
Additionally, they buy a wooden entrance door mortise lock, hinges, handles, viewing eye. For an interior door, it is enough to take hinges and a handle with a latch.
How to make a wooden door?
When assembling a simple wooden door with your own hands, a drawing or complex diagram is not needed. It is enough to measure the height and width of the door leaf. The dimensions of the sash are calculated so that it fits into the grooves of the door frame, leaving a gap of about 5 mm around the perimeter. When making a wooden door, the main elements are prepared: a tongue-and-groove board with a tongue-and-groove lock for the door leaf and a crossbar made from edged blanks.
Consists of step-by-step instruction Assembling a wooden door with your own hands using the following steps:
- the boards are sawn to the height of the future canvas and laid out on a flat surface, observing one direction of the pattern of annual rings;
- the tenons with grooves are lubricated with wood glue, all the boards are connected, tightly squeezing the canvas with a clamp;
- After the glue has dried, the tenon on the outer plank is cut off from the end of the product, and the entire surface of the shield is milled and polished.
- To prevent the sash from falling apart, the structure is secured with cross members. Edged board shape into a trapezoid, grooves are made on the canvas to a depth of 1/3 of the thickness wooden blank and lubricate them with wood glue. The crossbars are inserted into the recesses by tapping with a mallet. For reliability, you can fix it with self-tapping screws.
- To make the sash last longer, treatment is performed antiseptic impregnations. If it is necessary to install a double-glazed window on a wooden door, a window is cut out in the panel using a jigsaw. A board is nailed to the center of the end of the entire perimeter of the opening - a stop for two glasses. After installing the double-glazed window, the edges are framed with glazing beads or decorative strips.
If thick fabric is required, the sash is made of two layers. In the two-layer technology for manufacturing a wooden door, the perpendicularity of the boards of both panels is maintained. Glue them together with wood glue.
Keyed
Assemble warm wooden doors for a private house without special effort can be made from boards with dowels. The manufacturing technology consists of the following steps:
Usually for entering a house massive doors made of oak, beech or cedar. The canvas can be decorated in an antique style or given modern style. A simple wooden door, assembled with your own hands from a pine board, will fit into a bathhouse or barn.
Panel
A panel door is a budget option. The frame is a rectangular frame made of boards. Fiberboard sheets are glued to both sides. In industrial conditions, additional veneer or laminate cladding is used. Another feature of the door design is the filling of the frame voids with insulation from wood waste: sawdust, shavings, small chips, corrugated cardboard.
Let's look at how to make a wooden panel door out of boards with your own hands step by step:
- A fiberboard sheet is cut to the size of the sash, as well as blanks from boards for the frame;
- all elements are laid out on a flat surface, connected to each other with wood glue and self-tapping screws;
- bottom panel made of fiberboard with wooden frame formed voids that are filled with sawdust;
- The upper part of the frame is smeared with glue, a second fiberboard panel is laid and the entire sash is pressed with a press.
You can glue veneer on top of the finished door leaf as a finish, and round off the sharp corners with a router.
Paneled
Design paneled doors It is a frame made of timber, inside of which a set of horizontal crossbars, vertical lintels, and also mullions are inserted. As a result, cells are formed for inserting the panel. The technology allows you to make a wooden door with glass, plastic, and other materials. The strength of the web depends on the number of crossbars.
The panel is cut to such a size that it fits into the cell with a gap of 2 mm. Glass inserts or fiberboard is immediately secured with glazing beads. The edges of a thick panel of plywood or chipboard are milled until they become 2 mm thinner than the grooves cut on the frame. The last to be attached are the framing beads.
Decor
Decorating a homemade wooden door begins with sanding. Next, the treatment is carried out with an antiseptic that protects the wood from dampness and pests. After drying, the surface of the door is covered with two layers of primer or putty. Finishing layer paint or varnish is applied.
If there professional tool, as well as certain skills, the canvas is decorated with carvings, stencils are cut out and even a mosaic is made.
Today, not only city dwellers, but also the majority of country property owners prefer metal structures as entrance doors. In theory, they are much stronger, more reliable and durable than their wooden or plastic counterparts. But in fact, many solid-looking metal doors from the budget segment can be opened with a can opener, and a crowbar for them is universal key. Not everyone can afford to install a massive, expensive structure, and high cost is not a guarantee of appropriate quality.
Therefore, craftsmen with skills welding work and the corresponding tool base, they prefer to make such doors themselves. In this situation, you can be confident in the strength of the frame, and in decent parameters of noise absorption and thermal insulation, and also give the appearance in the general style. FORUMHOUSE users They have also mastered the process and are sharing the results. We study their experience and prepare a metal door.
- Experience - best helper
- Useful tips for beginners from experienced ones
Metal entrance doors - constructive
IN standard version a metal door consists of a frame, leaf, hinges and mounting elements(plates, lugs, pins). You cannot do without certain costs for materials and components, but a self-made door will cost much less than a purchased one. The exact list of consumables depends on the design, dimensions and purpose - if for a simple frame with lining and a latch, then to enter the house the door must be multi-layered, with effective locking fittings and decorative cladding. In the second case, an approximate set of what is needed looks like this:
- Metal corner(from 5 mm) or profile - for the box;
- Metal corner or profile pipe - for the frame, stiffeners;
- Sheet of metal - for power sheathing ( optimal thickness 2-3 mm).
- Thermal insulation material(mineral wool, polystyrene foam, EPS or PSB);
- Components – hinges (preferably with bearings), seal, peephole, lock/locks, handle, etc.;
- Finishing – wood, forging, plastic (for inside various panels or laminate).
One of the most important stages is measurements; if you make a mistake, the installation of the door will become much more difficult in the future, so you should adhere to certain recommendations:
- All measurements are taken not from the finishing layer, but from the rough wall;
- There should be a groove left between the frame and the opening, the standard one is 2 cm (for alignment and installation seam);
- The gap between the box and the canvas on the hinge side is 3 mm, on the lock side – 5 mm.
Having a working drawing with dimensions or at least a sketch will become good help, not everyone’s imagination is developed enough to imagine the end result in their mind. Fortunately, there are plenty of quite workable drawings on the Internet, although drawing and drawing are also difficult.
Experience is the best assistant
But the best assistant is the experience that the participants of our portal generously share.
A 20x40 mm profile pipe was used for the frame, a metal sheet 3 mm thick, insulator – mineral wool, finishing – MDF.
Since it is necessary to cook the frame on a hard, flat surface, and the craftsman did not have a suitable cooking table, he used beams placed in the same plane. He also used clamps to maintain the geometry of the product; some of them slightly “grab” the elements to the cooking table during the welding process. dronduletus I made the door in several stages.
I cut the pipe to size, did not observe the 45⁰ angles, since the welding was carried out end-to-end, assembled the frame, beat off the diagonal, grabbed it, checked it, and secured it with clamps. I welded the frame and welded the stiffeners.
The sheet for the sheathing was cut taking into account allowances for overlap along the entire perimeter (1.5 cm), and secured to the frame with clamps. I first welded it from the inside of the frame - from the middle to the edge, using clamps (about 2 cm in increments of 15-20 cm). To make the sheet less sticky, cook it diagonally - opposite sides in different directions. Afterwards, I welded the external seams in the same way, cleaned them with a grinder, and welded them along the stiffening ribs in the same order. It was possible to get by with just one rib, but the sheet turned out to be curved. Next, I welded the “pocket” for the lock - I cut a groove in the end, and scalded it around the perimeter with profile scraps.
I made the box from a 40x40 mm corner, used a 100x50 mm channel for the threshold, and when cutting the segments I added gaps not only for the hinges and the lock, but also up and down (4 mm each). As a protection against those who like to profit from other people's goods, I welded additional plates/plugs over the place where the crossbar will fit the full width (on both sides). I welded metal strips to attach the box to the wall (two on top and three on the sides). It protected not only from knocking out the bolt, but also from removing the door from its hinges.
dronduletus
I welded pieces of corner 8 cm wide inside the door, on the back side of the frame, lifting it 8 mm from it - these are anti-removal crabs.
I welded the canopies in a horizontal position - placing the canvas in a box and placing a 2 mm thick steel plate between the canopy and the canvas, so that the seal could be glued on afterwards and avoid friction. I welded the canopies at a distance of 25 cm from the edge of the canvas to the center of each canopy, having previously checked the level and secured with clamps.
Since the walls are old and leave much to be desired, I abandoned conventional anchors and used pins only to fix the threshold (channel). The frame was secured with studs 25 cm long (diameter 12 mm) and chemical anchors. After installing the frame, I hung the door and drilled holes for the bolt. I laid insulation in the door cavity and sewed everything up MDF panels, painted.
Another portal participant did not photograph the process, but his observations will be useful to anyone who is planning to start making a door.
outsider FORUMHOUSE Member
I also welded the doors; I didn’t take any photos during the process, but I’ll tell you the details. I did this with my father-in-law, they welded a bunch of these doors as a sub at the factory.
DIY metal door, life hacks and conclusions:
- It is better to take hot-rolled iron for cladding; cold-rolled iron has tight geometry and right angles;
- To weld the hinge plate to the box with a clamp, you need to hold it lightly and immediately release it. When the seam cools, the plate will bend with the required gap. All loops are scalded after fixation;
- If you do special device(as in the figure), pressing the sheet to the corner when welding will avoid “bubbles”;
- To prevent the door leaf from touching the frame during operation, the hinges are welded so that the hinge axis is on the edge of the sheet;
Intermediate draft result in the photo.
Master81 welded two metal doors - double-leaf and single (255x110 mm and 210x0.72 mm), and, looking at his creation, it is clear that he is “on the short end” with metal.
The box was welded from a corner five millimeters thick, six is possible, but four is undesirable, the frame is made of profile pipe 40x20 mm. The manufacture of the structure did not cause any difficulties.
Master81 FORUMHOUSE Member
I measured the doorway, minus a centimeter from the width and length, cut the corner straight with a grinder, first assembled the frame, then the frame for the door.
Another one of our craftsmen, a FORUMHOUSE member from Moscow with the nickname oss, has already made the sixth metal door, if you count Garage Doors. The canvas is three millimeters thick, the frame is made of a 50x40x3 mm profile pipe, like most, but he approached the issue of safety thoroughly. Armor plate, internal plate, lever lock with four bolts, protective curtain in the hole. These improvements have increased the cost of the product, but peace of mind is more valuable. No photo oss compensates with an optimized assembly process and useful tips.
oss FORUMHOUSE Member
Before this, I made doors using different techniques, including first tying, and then tacking and assembling the frame. The sequence chosen this time seems more optimistic.
The optimized version looks like this:
- I started with the front vertical profile, made a frame, secured the lock in the frame, checked how it worked;
- I made a rear vertical profile, immediately welded the anti-pullers (behind the hinges);
- I assembled the entire frame from profiles using tacks;
- I cut out the trim along the frame (with an overlap of 20 mm);
- “I baited” the sheet, scalded it with oven mitts in increments of 150 mm;
- In the racks of the box (trimming) I cut out grooves for the crossbars and anti-removals;
- I welded a box with gaps (3 and 5 mm);
- Welded the hinges.
ABOUT ss advises to insert one combined door lock instead of two different types.
Conclusion
In a thread on the forum dedicated to, the opinion was expressed that the costs of homemade products would be significant, and the savings would not be so significant that the game would be worth the candle. However for skillful hands and the manufacturing process is quite feasible, and the ability to choose decent materials, and not guess what’s inside the purchased structure, is an important factor. Therefore, while some are talking about feasibility, others are doing and sharing real experience to make things easier for beginners.
You can learn how to save on wooden entrance doors from the article - also on our portal. The video contains an overview of popular new doors from the famous exhibition.
To equip the opening of a utility room, practical owners purchase inexpensive but fully functional door structures. The article talks about choosing and ordering a door to a barn or outbuilding. You will find out what the requirements are for input products, get acquainted with the qualities of inexpensive and reliable design, as well as with the features of metal and wooden models.
The door as the basis for security Source: allamericanwholesalers.com
About the requirements for doors
Anyone who lives outside the city acquires a substantial amount of things - this and garden tools, and construction tools, and everything that helps maintain order on the site. This entire arsenal is stored in different ways, often in a house or garage. But the most common storage method is a shed or outbuilding (which often surpasses any shed in its capabilities).
In such outbuildings it is not customary to install expensive products equipped with an Italian or Israeli lock. A wooden door will do the job of isolating the room from the street. If the building is brick and is intended to store something more valuable (not only a lawn mower, but also, for example, an ATV), a practical owner will think about metal protection. Whatever the door for a utility room or barn, it must satisfy the following conditions:
Reliability. The protective function is the main one by default. Reliability depends on the level of burglary resistance, and this depends on the material and design of the door leaf, as well as on the quality of the lock.
Practicality. Cost and ease of operation play an important role when choosing a particular model.
Dimensions. The size is set based on specific conditions. It is worth considering the width of the opening if you plan to store a walk-behind tractor or garden wheelbarrow in the shed.
Lifetime. The door structure must demonstrate wear resistance; special requirements are presented to a metal sheet that should not be susceptible to corrosion.
Appearance . In many cases, the owners want the door to fit into the design concept of the site, and will consider the finishing of the door from an aesthetic point of view.
Types of structures
A properly equipped outbuilding cannot do without modern, high-quality and convenient door. The simplest classification door design- according to the material of manufacture, and here the choice is small: your barn (or outbuilding) will most likely be decorated with a door leaf made of metal or wood. To manufacture it, you need quite high qualifications; you can make it yourself only if you have the appropriate skills and experience.
In order for the door to perform its functions without fail, in most cases you should focus on purchasing a ready-made model or ordering one if for some reason you need non-standard option. The door structure includes a frame and door leaves; Based on the number of canvases, models are distinguished:
Single-sex(single-leaf hinged). Classic version, which protects the contents of the building from prying eyes. Both metal and wooden options are common.
Double-field(double-leaf hinged). Two canvases of the same width.
One and a half. The canvases have different widths.
Sliding. The advantage of the sliding model is that it saves space, which can sometimes be very convenient. The second advantage is that you don’t need it to install it. door frame. Sliding doors can also have one or two leaves.
As a rule, doors for outbuildings are made solid (solid), which is fully justified by its protective function. Sometimes there are glazed structures that increase daylight premises (often it is complemented by a transom on top). Some metal models, related to technical ones, are produced with double-glazed windows.
Features of metal doors for outbuildings
Metal doors for a barn or outbuilding have the following features:
Design. The release of all entrance doors is regulated by GOST 31173–2003. For economy-class products, this means that the door leaf consists of one sheet of cold-rolled steel and is mounted on a welded or solid-bent frame. For the manufacture of inexpensive models it is used steel sheet thickness 1.2-1.5 mm; sometimes there are also stiffening ribs, characteristic of more expensive options.
Video description
ABOUT sliding doors in loft style in the following video:
Lock. To protect outbuildings, locks of the second or third class of burglary resistance are chosen, which is quite enough to protect the contents of the barn from unprofessional burglary (even a fourth class lock will not save you from a professional one).
Loop system. The hinges are selected according to the dimensions; they must be strong: not deform and reliably support the weight of the canvas. Depending on the weight of the sash, from two to four hinges are designed.
Insulation. Most doors for outbuildings do not have a thermal insulation layer or sealing contours, which reduces cost input block. If it is important for the owners to maintain an acceptable temperature in the utility room winter time, polystyrene foam will help increase the level of thermal insulation of the product. If you want a soundproofing effect, the door leaf on the inside is supplemented with a layer of mineral wool, polyurethane foam or basalt slab.
On our website you can find contacts construction companies that offer. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
Appearance. The door leaf is painted with primer or polymer (which is somewhat more expensive) paint. Powder coated doors are also produced. Any coating plays a protective and decorative role and increases the service life of the product, protecting against corrosion and mechanical stress.
Details. The door closer and ergonomic handle will make the operation of the doors more comfortable. Additional options include a peephole, insulation and (or) sealing contours; You may consider it necessary to install armored linings on the locks.
Features of wooden doors for outbuildings
Despite the solid characteristics of metal barn doors, wooden models boast a number of advantages:
Versatility. Classical wooden surface looks organic on any facade, in any architectural style.
Long term services. Correctly and timely processed wood significantly increases the service life of the door. For protection, you can use an additional layer of varnish.
Performance characteristics. Wood does not freeze during severe frosts and has excellent heat and sound insulation. Installing a three-layer wooden door or two (50 mm thick) in a heated room will solve the problem of retaining heat in the winter. The room will not be cooled and you will save money on heating.
Tamper resistance. A door made of solid wood, reinforced with reliable hinges and a lock, is comparable in resistance level to its metal counterpart.
Environmental friendliness. Wood is a natural material, the environmental friendliness of which no one has doubted for a long time.
Diversity. On construction market available wide choose doors made from different woods(pine, oak, larch); the tree is treated with an antifungal solution. When made to order, it is possible to decorate with metal (forged) parts.
Video description
About installing a wooden door in the following video:
Choosing street doors for a utility room or barn
The model is selected depending on the type of outbuilding; it must guarantee safety both at night and during the absence of the owners. If you are planning to purchase (or order) doors, the right decision there will be an appeal to the relevant organization; Such cooperation has many advantages:
High quality. A company with a narrow specialization ensures the strength and durability of the product thanks to the detailed workmanship and experience of its craftsmen, for a long time working in this field.
Careful selection of material. For production, high-quality metal and durable wood species are used, the best fittings are selected, thanks to which the product is reliable and functional.
The price corresponds to the quality and is formed depending on the dimensions, shape, material, and the presence of insulation.
Standards. The products are manufactured in accordance with GOST (with mandatory quality control) and are safe for health, which is confirmed by a certificate.
Custom design. Ready-made doors are made for a specific opening. Perhaps the opening of your shed is designed for large items and has non-standard dimensions. In this case, the optimal solution would be to order a one-and-a-half or two-leaf design. You cannot do without individual execution if you want all doors to be in the same style and the design to make a pleasant impression.
Changes. The package can be modified if desired by the customer. Replacement isn't just about hardware; the door can be equipped ventilation grille, install an additional lock, and a double-glazed window on the metal structure.
Installation. It is carried out by experienced specialists. They perform the whole range of work: prepare the opening, install the frame, install the canvas, seal the cracks. On average, the work takes two to three hours.
Conclusion
Technical doors, designed to protect the contents of a barn or outbuilding, are located in the inexpensive price segment. Reducing the cost does not mean reducing quality. Usually for metal structures the budget price is formed through the use of slightly thinner steel, inexpensive facade coating (powder paint, nitro enamel, varnish), simple but reliable hinges, handles and locks. If insulation is optional, then installation rubber seals masters recommend in any case. The seal extends the service life: softens impacts, improves heat and sound insulation, and does not allow odors to pass through.
External doors for utility units are economy class metal doors. They have simple design, consisting of a frame, canvas, lock, hinge system, closer. To make inexpensive doors, the manufacturer uses steel with a thickness of 1.2-1.5 mm. Stiffening ribs at doors for utility units are often absent, but in some models they are included.
The lock for the doors of outbuildings usually corresponds to the second class of burglary resistance. This is enough to protect the shed from attempts to open it with the simplest household tools. Door hinges must be strong and reliable.
Doors for outbuildings, as a rule, do not have insulation or sealing contours. Their absence reduces the cost of the input unit.
At the buyer's request, the door leaf can be supplemented with cheap foam, which provides minimal heat and sound insulation properties of the product. If you need soundproofed entrance doors, take a closer look at structures with an internal layer of basalt slab, mineral wool or polyurethane foam.
Doors are made from one or two sheets of cold-rolled steel. The frame of the product is welded or bent. The number of hinges varies from two to four, depending on the weight of the sash. For convenient operation, a comfortable ergonomic handle is attached to the blade.
Barn doors are painted with polymer or primer paint. They protect metal well from corrosion and also serve decorative coating. Primer paint is cheaper, polymer paint is more expensive. Powder-coated doors have proven themselves to be durable and practical entrance blocks.
Outdoor metal doors to order
Metal doors for utility rooms are produced using automated equipment. In the manufacture of doors, welding machines, polymerization ovens, painting chambers, painting guns, guillotines, grinders, hacksaws and much more are used. The work is performed by a staff of qualified specialists. The finished doors are packaged and delivered to the customer.
They are installing doors experienced craftsmen. They will clear the opening, install the door frame, insert the sash, attaching it to the frame, and seal the cracks. The work usually takes about two to three hours.
When choosing an outdoor metal door, consider the size of the opening. For outbuildings with large items the best option there will be installation of one and a half floor or double doors. Metal doors with non-standard sizes can be ordered from the STROYSTALINVEST company.
