How to make a beautiful bed from boards. A wooden bed as a means of improving well-being. Children's, bunk, double - features of use and choice. What is better to make it from?

The bed is the main place in the bedroom, which should be comfortable and spacious. For this reason, you should be careful when choosing a piece of furniture. We must not forget about strength so that the product does not fall apart in the first month of operation. You don’t have to buy a ready-made bed from a furniture store; you can make it yourself. In this case, you can show your imagination, develop a diagram and drawing, with the help of which you can make a suitable design in accordance with your preferences. But it’s still worth considering the nuances first; they will help you do it correctly and accurately.

Creating a drawing and diagram of the future bed

Before you start making a double bed, you should develop a drawing. It reflects all the necessary elements and dimensions. Using the diagrams, it will be possible to correctly calculate the required volume of material from certain parameters. You can also give the drawing to professionals who make furniture; they will make a product that you would like to see in your bedroom.

Example drawings

It is worth deciding on the type of bed structure that will be made. Stationary models are popular. Unlike Transformers stationary options simple and durable, they do not have a folding mechanism.

Stationary beds consist of the following components:

• Support frame;
• Supports;
• Headboard;
• Foot;
• Mattress holders;
• Side guards.

Now that it is clear what the bed consists of, you can start choosing a drawing for it. Examples of diagrams can be taken as a basis, and with the help of them you can make a sketch with some modifications and additions.

The diagram shows a double bed with drawers and a bed under the mattress.

The model in the diagram is perfect for a room with classic design. It has a small width of 1.5 meters. For this reason, the product will fit into large and small rooms.

All-turf bed under a standard double mattress.

The diagram shows a model of a double bed that will complement the interior of a classic bedroom. The drawing shows standard dimensions.

Drawing showing a cross section of a fixed double bed. It will simplify the process of making your own design. The diagram shows a bed with load-bearing frame and supports made of wooden beam. To lay the mattress, lamellas with a cross section of 20x80 mm are laid out on the sides, one after another.

Diagram of a double bed, which is suitable for self-production. It has a simple design that anyone can handle assembling.

Different sizes

You should first decide on the size of the future bed. The standard length of the structure is considered to be 2 meters or 200 cm. But the figure varies in the range from 190 to 220 cm. To determine the size of the bed in length, you need to add 30 cm to the person’s height.

The minimum bed width should be 160 cm. But there are options:

• 170 cm;
• 180 cm;
• 190 cm;
• 200 cm;
• 220 cm.

There is a trick that will help you determine the appropriate bed width. To do this, you need to lie on the bed, put your hands on your chest, straighten your elbows. Then the distance from one elbow to the other is measured. 10-20 cm is added to the resulting figure.

Material selection

It is important to choose the right material from which the structure will be made. The strength, durability and attractiveness of the product depend on it. Before you begin the manufacturing process, it is worth considering the types of bases from which beds are made.

Tree

Wood is a durable material that is often used to make furniture. Among the advantages it is worth highlighting:

• Strength. Wood is considered a reliable material, especially hardwood, which does not crack or deform over time;
• Attractive appearance. Wooden furniture looks beautiful, stylish, the pattern gives the products a unique design;
• Environmental friendliness. The tree does not have a negative impact on human health. In addition, furniture from natural wood has a positive effect on the indoor microclimate and helps to constantly maintain the required humidity;
• Durability of furniture. Wood products can last for several decades. They endure unfavourable conditions, do not collapse and retain their appearance after long-term use;
• Compatibility with different interiors. Bed from natural wood can fit into any style and design. This material is also combined with textiles, leather and other bases.

But don't forget about the disadvantages:

• The tree does not like changes in temperature and humidity. This can lead to deformation of some structural parts and the appearance of cracks on the surface;
• Some insect pests can spoil the material;
• Over time, the wood begins to dry out.

timber

Timber is often used for beds. This material has the same characteristics as wood. Among the advantages it is worth highlighting:

• Strength. The material withstands negative influences, does not crack, does not deform;
• Beautiful appearance;
• Long wear. Furniture made from timber can last for several decades;
• Environmental friendliness;
• Easy processing and installation;
• Compatibility with different materials.

But there are also negative features:

• When temperature and humidity changes, it begins to crack and deform;
• It is necessary to cover the top with protective agents - varnish, stain;
• The material can be damaged by pests and insects.

Plywood

Plywood is perfect for making your own bed. This is due to the advantages of this material:

• Good strength. Plywood has a multi-layer glued structure, which makes this material durable and wear-resistant;
• Smooth and even surface;
• Simple processing. To cut and carry out other carpentry operations there is no need to have special skills;
• Elasticity. The plywood sheet can be easily given a rounded shape;
• Affordable price.

But there are disadvantages:

• Low weather resistance;
• Sheets with certain dimensions are available on sale.

Array

Products that are made from natural material, have a number of advantages:

• Beautiful appearance;
• Eco-friendly and natural. Solid wood products have a beneficial effect on health; they create a favorable microclimate in the room;
• Excellent strength and durability;
• Structures made from solid wood are highly stable; they do not become loose even after repeated use;
• Resistant to mechanical damage (chips, scratches, cracks);
• Create a warm and comfortable atmosphere in the room.

But there are disadvantages:

• High price;
• Heavy weight;
• When temperature and humidity changes, the material begins to deform and crack.

What tools will you need?

To make a bed with your own hands, you should prepare the equipment from the list below:

• Circular saw (grinder);
• Hacksaw;
• Drill;
• Drills with different diameters;
• Screwdriver;
• Self-tapping screws;
• Wood glue or PVA;
• Clamps;
• Square;
• Screwdriver;
• Roulette;
• Simple pencil;
• Iron corners;
• Varnish or stain;
• Sandpaper;
• Brushes for painting.

This is a standard kit that is required for the manufacture and assembly of a wooden structure. Additionally, you will need material, the volume of which is calculated using drawings and diagrams.

Project details

The table below contains the materials that will be required to make a standard bed with two beds.

Frame making

The process of making a bed should start with the frame. This is the main part that holds the product. Additional elements will be installed on it in the future.

The first step is to glue the components together to create the following parts:

• Side panels;
• Headboard;
• Leg back.

The main features of the frame assembly include:

• The surfaces to be joined must be treated with glue. To ensure reliable coupling of materials, it is worth placing a load on top;
• To reliably and firmly connect the corners at the edges of the bars, you need to saw off a small fragment - 40-50 mm. As a result, the corners are firmly fastened, but they additionally need to be lubricated with glue;
• After assembling and gluing the main box, you can begin installing the internal jumper rail;
• When the frame is assembled and fixed, you can begin attaching the legs and supporting elements.

Grinding

The surface should be smooth and even. For this reason, the wood is planed and sanded. Otherwise the parts will not stick well. Grinding is carried out using a grinder and an abrasive disc. Afterwards the end parts and grooves are polished.

Note! To remove fine lint from the surface of the elements and prepare them for painting, experts advise using thin sanding discs with sizes 80-120.

Painting

Before assembly, you should paint the elements for the bed. It is recommended to select the color of the paint so that it fits into the interior in the future. For wood, it is recommended to use protective agents - varnish or stain. These coatings can protect the material from premature wear, but will also make it brighter and more beautiful.

It is worth noting! When choosing paints, you should pay attention to the fact that they should be ideal for the wood. Preference should be given to water- or oil-based options. Acrylic paints are the best coatings for wooden products.

The surface and end parts need to be painted. To do this, you must use special brushes. Be sure to wait until all parts are completely dry. After this you can start assembling.

Attaching supports for slatted bottom

Support components are attached at the corners of the frame. First, they are fixed with glue and then reinforced with self-tapping screws. Experts recommend securing the legs with metal corners for greater reliability.

Additionally, supports can be made in the middle of the side panels. They will provide excellent stability to the structure, and will also ensure even distribution of the weight of the sleeping person. After the glue has dried, the frame can be placed on supports.

Installation of slats (lamellas)

After the frame has dried, you can begin making the base from the lamellas. Among the important features of this stage are:

• On the side drawers, the position of the plank on which the base will be installed is marked;
• The supporting components must be flush with the center lintel. For convenience, you can focus on the line of the upper beam;
• Boards are laid on the prepared supports;
• So that there are no squeaks in the future, cross members should not rest against the side drawers. For this reason, it is recommended to leave a gap of 4-5 mm;
• The flooring can be made not only from lamellas, but from ordinary boards;
• The flooring must be fixed using self-tapping screws. Fastening is done along the edges and in the center of each lamella.

Legs

Legs don't count mandatory elements, but still they facilitate the process of moving the structure in the room. They can be made from wood or other materials. They must be the same length.

Important! There is no need to make the legs too high, as this can lead to instability of the product. They must be fastened at the corners of the structure.

The legs can be attached using glue and metal corners. Additionally, you can fix it with self-tapping screws for better strength.

Decorative elements

The decor is chosen as desired, the main thing is that it can make the furniture stylish and not too bright or pretentious. It should be in harmony with other interior elements.

The following decorative components can be used for the backs and sides of the structure:

• Wood patterns;
• Metal inserts;
• Textile embroideries;
• Drawings on wood;
• Carved elements.

Assembling the backboard for the headboard

The side back or head of the bed is optional. It gives the product a luxurious look and makes it richer. The backs can be of different shapes - rectangular, semicircular or consist of several edges. Lattice options also look stylish.

The process of making a headboard is simple:

• This part will require 2 or 3 bars. They stick together;
• For better gluing, you can place a weight on top;
• After complete drying, the wood is processed;
• You can apply varnish or stain on top;
• The headboard can be painted with wood paint;
• Soft textile padding can be attached to the top;
• The back is attached to the frame using corners, self-tapping screws or regular PVA glue.

Drawer design

The drawer design is practical and comfortable furniture which can save space in the room. But still, its production is quite complex and requires special skills in this matter.

When making a product, metal strips are attached to the bottom of the frame and the base from the inside; they will serve as supports. Two transverse ones are attached to the longitudinal slats, on which the drawer will slide. Then we make a box of four elements. We glue them together with PVA glue and keep them under pressure until they dry completely.

Building a bed with two sleeping places is a rather labor-intensive process that requires experience and skill in this matter. At the initial stage, it is necessary to develop a drawing according to which the structure will be manufactured. Everything needs to be thought out in advance, the volume of material must be calculated and notes with dimensions must be made on each element. The finished bed should be durable, comfortable and beautiful.

There are many recipes on the Internet on how to make your own bed. We will not repeat them. We will tell you how to make a real bed with your own hands, which, like the old ones, can be passed on to children and grandchildren, withstanding everything that happens on it. But such a bed is unlikely to cost more than the cheapest purchased one, and it will cost nothing at all in terms of labor and materials. True, it will take about 10 days due to the necessary technological interruptions.

This bed is wooden, made exclusively from environmentally friendly pure materials. When assembling, apply nitro glue once small quantity, but basically completely harmless PVA. The finished product will look approximately as shown in the figure. The shape and design of the headboard and footboard are at your discretion; the parameters and quality of the entire structure do not depend on them at all.
Our double bed has one more feature: the complete absence of connections visible to the eye - fastener heads, brackets, etc. and their minimum number. In creating the bed, some design and technological techniques of wooden aircraft manufacturing were used, which at the dawn of its era also borrowed a lot from furniture makers.

Materials

The parts of the bed that “look outwards” are made of MDF with the texture of valuable wood or laminate; both are 20-30 mm thick. If there are comic fights with pillows, etc. turbulent events among the owners not at the factory, then it is quite possible to get by with 16 mm blanks. MDF is preferable - it is not laminated, and this will allow you to do without nitro glue and assemble everything using PVA; It does not adhere to laminated surfaces. Internal parts are made of wood or plywood with a thickness of 10-20 mm.

Let’s say right away that it’s easier and cheaper to order blanks of either MDF or laminate from the nearest furniture shop. Buying sheets yourself at retail price will cost much more. Furniture makers will cut it exactly to size and edge it - they will cover the ends with PVC to match the texture or contrast it, as you wish. Edge thickness – 0.2-2 mm.

For lumber, you will need to purchase timber 50x50 mm, approximately 8-8.5 m (can be in pieces), a couple of boards (30-40) x 100 mm, necessarily solid, 2 m long. For the flooring of the sun lounger (see below) you will need 20x100 boards mm, ten to one and a half pieces, 1.6 m long, or ordinary construction plywood, from ten to twenty, 2000x1600 mm. Boards are preferable, they are cheaper, and the dimensions of a standard sheet of plywood with the dimensions of the bed do not match well.

All lumber is edged and planed. Wood species – any. Independent additional processing, except for sawing to size and cutting out quarters and grooves, is not required.

Note: for a bed with drawers (see below) you will also need chipboard. You can take any cheapest one; parts made from it are loaded only in compression and only slightly. But chipboard won’t work for flooring a sunbed; it’s not elastic.

Fasteners

Expensive special fittings: minifixes, confirmats, eccentric adjusters, etc. are not used in the described design. At the same time, its strength and durability are higher than serial models, and its weight is less. This was achieved thanks to manufacturing technology with fairly long interruptions. Professional furniture makers need to quickly assemble products for sale in accordance with quality standards, otherwise they will go broke. But a homemade bed can wait until it is brought to full condition. Using this circumstance, it was possible to obtain a design that was simpler, cheaper and better than the factory ones.

You will need the following fasteners:

1. Self-tapping screws 5-6 mm, regular phosphated (black, cheapest). Length – the sum of the thicknesses of the parts being connected minus 10 mm. How many specific ones are calculated according to the design chosen from the ones described below.
2. Nails 60-70 mm.
3. Steel corners with stiffening rib.

Note: because Since all connections are made with gluing, the best self-tapping screws are phosphated, their surface is slightly rough. PVA will adhere worse to smooth, shiny fasteners.

You should pay special attention to the corners. Firstly, the stiffener. It should be wide and round, as shown in the picture. Secondly, the folding and stamping surfaces must be completely smooth. Burrs and ripples are a sign of raw, and then burnt and overtightened metal. These corners are prone to fatigue and may crack for no apparent reason.

Connections

All connections, as stated, are made with gluing. Glue is applied to flat surfaces in a zigzag pattern (on both sides) and spread with a small notched spatula. Then it is kept until liquid tack-free (3-10 minutes), the parts are assembled into a unit and tightened with metal fasteners, also with glue, see below.

Self-tapping screws

For self-tapping screws, blind holes are drilled in advance, on dry parts. Depth – 2/3 of the length of the self-tapping screw. Diameter – 3/4 of the thickness of the self-tapping screw body without thread. For 5 mm screws it will be 2.5 mm; for 6 mm – 3 mm. To accurately match holes in prefabricated units, the parts to be connected are temporarily fastened with clamps, one at the ends and between the edges, one per 0.5 m of length.

Calculation example: Let's say the frame beam is connected to a frame made of 20 mm MDF, see below. Total thickness – 70 mm. Self-tapping screws are needed 10 mm shorter, see above; take 6x60 mm. We make holes for them with a depth of 40 mm. The fifty beam will not pierce through. This means that you also need to glue and drive the screws with clamps.

Note: at the factory, the timber would have been drilled right through, and then a blind counter board would have been drilled into it. But this is only for the sake of speed and ease of assembly. The connection is greatly weakened in this case. For yourself, it’s better to do it painstakingly, but much more firmly. Also, by the way, the best masters They also make exclusive ones to order.

Next, add drops of water-polymer emulsion to the top into the blind holes. When it is absorbed (this takes a few minutes), coat the inside with PVA with a thin stick. Then we apply glue to the plane as described above, compress the parts with clamps and drive in dry screws. There is no point in applying glue to the threads - it will be squeezed out along the threads when screwed. The glue in the hole will drive the screw into the wood; in its mass, something like a glue bulb is formed, firmly holding the parts, like an anchor. Clamps can be removed one day after assembly.

Notes:

1. Seen in dried out old furniture screws falling out with wood chips or fiberboard stuck to the threads? They were driven in by dipping them in glue, rather than by coating the holes from the inside.
2. Water-polymer emulsion is not sold in small packages, but for a bed you will need a glass and a half. Therefore, instead, dilute it with water 3-5 times, until translucent and aqueous liquid, a little PVA. We prepare in small portions as needed: homemade emulsion is not stored even in a closed container.

Nails

For nails, you don’t need to drill anything in advance: we glue the parts together under pressure or in clamps, then fasten them with nails. But there are still two nuances:

• Nails must be taken with a ring notch (see figure on the right). It is with a ring one, not a spiral or point one.
• You need to score after 12-16 hours. after gluing; preferably without removing the clamp or weight. If the place for the nail is covered, then, having removed the clamp and hammered it in, we compress the parts again until a day or two has elapsed from gluing.

The point here is that the notch of the nail will drive the undried remains of glue into the wood. Then, when the wood dries out, the nail will still hold tightly.

Dowels and dowels

Probably everyone has seen dowels without knowing what they are. Dowel - a round wooden boss in two blind holes, connecting flush wooden parts. Dowel connections are extremely widely used in furniture and carpentry, but, alas, over time they dry out and no longer hold. To last for generations, dowels should be replaced with dowels. IN serial production dowels are not in use - manufacturing process slows down and production costs become unacceptable.

How a dowel is made from a dowel is shown in the left position of the figure on the right:

1. We soak the inside of the hole with emulsion and coat it with glue;
2. Lightly drive (attach) wedges about 1 mm thick from hard wood or fiberglass into the end of the boss, so as not to fall out;
3. We hammer the dowel (now dowel) into the hole with a mallet;
4. We attach the same wedge to the protruding surface of the dowel;
5. We soak and coat the response hole;
6. We put on the mating part and use a mallet to beat it until it fits tightly.

The most important condition for the reliability of the connection is that the wedge must be oriented across the grain of the wood, left pos. on the image. If the parts are connected at an angle - along the bisector of the angle. When connecting at right angles - with a 45-degree turn in any direction. In this case, the wedges with different sides dowels should be oriented perpendicular to each other.

The maximum permissible diameter of the boss is half the thickness of the board or the smallest size of the parts being connected. Minimum – 5% of the board width, but not less than 5 mm. Thus, for a 30x200 board, 10-12 mm bosses are needed, and for 50x50 beams - 15-20 mm. The length of the bosses is 2-3 times their diameter. The depth of the response hole in a thin part is half its thickness.

Dowel connections last for decades without gluing under the most severe operating conditions. And with sizing, the house will last for generations, and the wood may not be seasoned and of low quality, i.e. cheap.

For your information : Viking drakkars and knorrs, Hanseatic merchants' kogs and Pomeranian kochs were sewn together with dowels. Shipbuilders of the southern seas still preferred bronze and red copper nails. The copper compounds slowly oozing into the water to some extent scared off drillers and foulers, who warm waters swarm and rage.

Dimensions

For ergonomic reasons, the dimensions of a double bed bed are recommended to be 2 m long and 1.6 m wide. They can be increased to 2.4x2 m if desired; it is difficult to do even more using conventional technological methods and construction materials.

A standard single bed is 1.9-2 m long and 0.9 m wide. On this occasion, people of normal build can fit two people. If there is not enough space, the width can be reduced to that of a carriage shelf - 550 mm. But at the same time, there must be a side rail even at the bed for adults.

The height of the surface of the bed (at the top of the mattress) is within 350-500 mm, depending on the height and build of the owner. The upper limit is better suited for those whose lower leg is longer than their thigh, and vice versa. Fashionable “Japanese” beds with a height of 220-260 mm are just fashion. The thickness of the layer of greatest dust content in the air in the room is 200-300 mm from the floor. Therefore, children's and teenagers' beds should also be of an adult overall height; the smallest ones need to be stepped up for convenience.

The height of the bed is distributed as follows: 180-300 mm - mattress, 150-200 mm - drawers, the rest - under-bed space. It may turn out to be close to 0. In this case, you need to make a bed with drawers: without ventilation from underneath, the bed will soon suffocate, begin to exude miasma, or even become sticky to the touch. The minimum height of the under-bed space is 80 mm.

Mattress

The lion's share of the cost of a homemade bed is the mattress. Because of this, problems may arise when constructing a bed yourself. Finally, if you are going to make a bed yourself, then the comfort must be absolute, and a purchased mattress must be expensive. Therefore, we will figure out how to lay a ready-made mattress on a lounger without any difficulties, or how to inexpensively make your own, which is not inferior to the best orthopedic ones.

Warning: a homemade mattress is completely individual, and only for adults over 25 years of age, whose bones have completely ossified and stopped growing, and who are able to understand their sensations and interpret them correctly. The children's bed must be equipped with a special factory-made mattress, otherwise visits to an orthopedist with associated costs are very likely. The high price of orthopedic mattresses is precisely explained by the fact that they need to be made suitable for people of different heights, weights and builds.

Laying

Typically, the mattress is simply placed in a lodgement - a recess formed by the flooring of the bed and the sides of the sides of the bed - the drawer, on the left in Fig. If this method of installation is intended, then before taking on the bed, you need to buy a mattress. Branded sizes, even from the same batch, may differ from the standard 2000x1600 mm by plus or minus 10 mm. If you make a mistake, the mattress will either not fit into the cradle, or there will be a wide gap-garbage bin around the perimeter.

Note: A gap around the perimeter of the mattress is still necessary for the convenience of tucking in the sheets. But no more than 3-4 mm. This must be taken into account when calculating sizes makeshift bed.

Tossing and turning on a bed with a mattress in a support, sometimes you have to bump into the wood of the sides. It is unpleasant and can be painful if it hits a knuckle or ankle. Therefore, the flooring of the bed is often raised to the level of the top of the drawers (for this you have to move the timber frame upward, see below) and the entire bed is made the width of the mattress, on the right in Fig. The mattress is protected from slipping with retaining bosses made from waste wood, plywood, plasterboard, and EPS. The clamps are glued to a completely soft mattress; to a mattress with a rigid base - attached with screws or nailed. Holes are drilled or openings are cut out for the fasteners in the flooring of the sun lounger.

Homemade

Making a homemade mattress is easy: foam rubber different brands mosaic layers, PVA glue - and that’s it. You will need three grades of foam rubber: 45 – the densest and most elastic, 35 – medium elasticity, 25 – soft. The number of layers is 6. The overall height of the mattress is increased compared to the standard 180-200 mm, this must be compensated by the height of the drawers and legs. The design of the mattress is clear from the drawing; it also shows which parts of the body should have which inner block.

Note: layers and their blocks are not glued together over the entire plane, for ventilation. You need to glue it with an envelope; at least 60% of horizontal areas must remain free. And no more than 80% - for strength.

When buying, the quality of foam rubber is checked “by shooting”: they squeeze it to the limit with their fingers and sharply release it. The material should straighten instantly, following your fingers. If a gradually disappearing depression is noticeable, the foam rubber is suitable for anything except a mattress.

The location of the internal stops made of dense foam rubber is determined individually. Experimental equipment - 4 pillows, covered with a cotton blanket or 2-3 jacquard ones. For a couple's mattress, the lumbar support is positioned according to the convenience of the fair half (it is assumed that the couple is normal and the partner is shorter). If there is a significant difference in height, the head support needs to be widened. Thick sidewalls of the 4th layer prevent sleepers from rolling off.

Single double

Design elements

The bed, when viewed from the outside, is a rectangular frame consisting of two backs, a headboard with a footboard, and sides - a drawer. Inside, the load-bearing timber frame is integral with the backs and drawers. IN wide bed There are also longitudinal stiffening elements - spars, one or more. The timber frame is covered with a flooring made of boards or plywood (see figure), forming a flat plane - a deck chair - or a recess- tray. The flooring should have gaps or holes for ventilation. This information is enough to build a bed yourself. Let's get started.

Notes:

1. Sometimes the recommended upward deflection of the lounger is archaic. This was done at a time when sun loungers were covered with mattresses and feather beds, which had absolutely no elasticity. Any modern mattress doesn’t care whether it’s flat or curved. But a curved one is more difficult and will cost more.
2. The diameter of the holes in the plywood bed is 30-40 mm. Slots in planks vary in width from the thickness to the width of the board. The first is stronger, but more boards are needed. For ourselves, we look at the total weight of those lying down: up to 140 kg of maximum gaps; 180 and more are the minimum.

About corners and dowels

The most important and most loaded places of the bed are the corners. Therefore, the parts of the bed in the corners are connected into one twice: with dowels in the boards and quarters of the timber frame. The holes for the dowels must match exactly, so they are marked during the preliminary assembly process, see below.

Back

The design of the backs is shown in the figure. The top can be anything you like. The 50x50 cross beam is attached with glue and self-tapping screws. Glue – PVA for backs made of MDF or “Moment”, etc. for laminate. The cutouts in the center are for the spar mustaches, see below, 25 mm deep and 40 mm wide. The distance between the inner edges of the cutouts is 50 or 40 mm, depending on what trimmings will be used to connect the transverse stiffness of the spar, also see below.

This back is hard. The soft back (which, of course, is very convenient) is a special, rather complex design, and... Back thickness – 24-40 mm. The lower value applies to custom made laminate/MDF; more - to a homemade typesetting made of planed boards. In this case, it is assembled using plywood from two panels 20 mm thick, the boards of which are oriented perpendicular to each other. Glue over the entire surface of the PVA, dispersed with a notched trowel. Dry for a week under a load distributed over the entire plane with a total weight of at least 80 kg. Paint with stain several times to the desired tone or with mordant; then the wood texture will stand out.

The length of beam A depends on the size and method of laying the mattress. If it fits into the cradle, then A is equal to its width plus 6-10 mm. For a standard double, respectively, 1606-1610 mm. If the mattress is placed on a sunbed, then A will be its width minus the double thickness of the drawer boards and minus another 10 mm. For a standard mattress and a magpie frame – 1600-(2x40)-10 = 1510 mm.

The width of the backrest B for the headboard is any, not less than the width of the mattress plus double the thickness of the drawers (mattress in a bed) or the width of the mattress plus 10 mm (mattress on a lounger). The width of the footboard is exactly the width of the mattress plus double the thickness of the drawers (mattress in a bed) or the width of the mattress plus 10 mm (mattress on a lounger). The footboard, widened even slightly, significantly impairs the comfort of the bed. Making it high or level with the sides is a matter of the owner.

The design shown does not require legs. The cutout at the bottom is also not necessary - on a flat floor, the headboard and footboard will become all the lower ends. This will only make the job easier and reduce clutter under the bed. If you still want legs, you need to place them under the corners of the timber frame, using glue or grabbing them with a couple of nails without much effort. The entire load on the legs is from above. Beds have been known to stand on bricks and books for decades. Which is, of course, barbaric, but they don’t fall.

Tsargi

The design of the drawer is also clear from the drawing: it is a T-shaped beam made of fifty-fifty timber and 20-40 mm boards. Assembly - with glue and self-tapping screws, as already described. The length of the beam and the board are the same; The described bed does not require complex calculations of grooves and cutouts. The pin bosses are shown conditionally; they are installed after preliminary assembly.

For drawer boards, it is not necessary to order sawing from furniture makers. An edged planed board, thirty or forty, 150-200 mm wide, will do. Paint it in advance with stain or mordant, as described. You don't have to paint the inside, it will just make the bed easier to breathe.

The drawers of antique beds are genuine works of decorative art, but modern furniture is designed based on the principles of minimalism. Low drawers in any interior do not catch the eye, so varnishing, polishing and decor in general are not needed for them, as long as they match the tone.

Note: For the sake of ease of operation and economy, the footboard is often made the same in design as the drawers. In this case, it should be somehow finished: varnished, laminated; this detail is immediately visible. At the same time, legs at the back are needed for the sake of the overall design and ease of cleaning, see fig. on right. How to attach the legs is described earlier.

The height of the beam can be arranged in two ways. For a mattress in a cradle - the indentation of the top of the timber from the top of the board is 30-50 mm (this is the recess of the mattress into the cradle) plus 20 mm if the plank flooring is plank, or the thickness of the plywood (12-20 mm) if it is plywood. For a mattress on a lounger, the distance from the top of the board is simply equal to the thickness of the flooring, or even 2-3 mm less, so that the edges of the underside of the mattress do not rub against the boards of the drawer boards.

Spar

The plan view of the bed base is shown in the figure. Possible locations of mattress clamps are shown conditionally. The openings for the fasteners are already selected in the flooring of the lounger. For reliable fixation, you need 4 in the corners or 2 between the spar flanges. For a mattress in a cradle, clamps are not needed at all.

The spar is the longitudinal connection in the middle in the figure. Typically, a double bed has three spars, each from one 40x100 mm board. The proposed design is similar to the spar of a wooden airplane wing. It is stronger, stiffer and allows you to get by with two of the same boards.

Transverse stiffening inserts between the shelves are made from scraps of the same board or timber from the frame. There should be 4-7 of them along the length of the spar, evenly distributed. At the ends of the shelves, quarters up to 25x50 mm are selected, for cutouts in cross bars frames The top of the spar flanges and frame beams should form one plane.

The spar is assembled using glue and nails. Each insert requires 4 nails; 2 diagonally on each side. Diagonals from different sides - crosswise.

Bed assembly

Preliminary

After the frame elements are manufactured, the backrests (the footboard - already with legs, if so intended) are placed vertically, supported by stools or drawers. Then the drawers are applied and the rectangularity of the frame is checked along the diagonals. Wrap the assembly with rope, check the diagonals again and level the frame.

Now you need to mark the places for the dowels connecting the drawer boards with the backs. To do this, use a pencil to draw lines from the inside in the corners from the boards to the backs, having first noted the height; you need 2 dowels per end. The distance from the top and bottom is half the distance between the bosses, i.e. divide the width of the board by 4, 1/4 from the top and bottom; between bosses – 2/4.

We remove the drawers and drill holes in the ends of the boards. We smear the ends of the boards with easily washable paint around the holes (you can erase them with a felt-tip pen), slightly move the backs apart (an assistant is needed here), put the drawers in place, and squeeze the backs tightly; It is not necessary to check the squareness here. Where the response holes are needed is now immediately visible. If it doesn't print well, you can wash it off and repeat, but for all holes at once.

Frame

Now we select the holes in the backs and assemble the base so far only on the dowels of the boards/backs, as described above, and with gluing the quarters of the beam. That is, we drive the dowels into the ends of the boards using glue, lubricate the holes in the backs and quarters of the bars with glue, dry them until they are wet and tacky, and use a mallet to guide the backs onto the drawers until they fit tightly. After this, the frame needs to be covered, but not with fabric.

To cover the frame, we place pieces of packaging cardboard on its corners and the middle of the sides and wrap everything tightly with three turns of rope. The knot should be in the middle of the width of the headboard. Here again you can’t do without an assistant.

Then we spread the coils evenly along the width of the boards and insert pieces of pipe or wood of equal diameter in the middle on all four sides. It can be in the range of 20-80 mm, depending on how tightly the rope is stretched, but it is the same for everyone. Immediately, before the glue begins to gelatinize, we check the rectangularity along the diagonals, level it while the frame moves across, and dry without touching it for 2-4 days.

Advice: If you haven’t fitted anything like this before, practice on a dry frame, pick up the round pieces, and only then assemble without glue.

The meaning of this operation is illustrated by the diagram in Fig. school course physics. A small amount of tension in the transverse direction, according to the parallelogram rule, produces a large pulling force along the rope, and the frame will shrink to the limit needed for strength and rigidity after final assembly.

Information for your information: This method of creating great force is well known in military practice for pulling out stuck equipment. The machine's winch cable is led around a tree and caught with a hook. Then the winch is turned on for winding, and the fighter constantly pulls the cable to the side by the middle. In 10-15 minutes, one little wagon pulls a ZIL-131 with a kung with a total weight of 12 tons out of a swamp or quicksand. And without a pull-up from the side, the winch stops as soon as the cable goes tight.

After drying, we drill holes in the corners of the timber frame for the dowels there and place them, also with glue. Then we try on the spar in place; we customize if necessary. We lubricate its mustache and the corresponding cutouts in the beams with glue, put it in place and secure it with steel corners, as shown in the figure. For each wing of the corner you need 3 self-tapping screws.

We perform all these operations without removing the covering. We remove it 2-3 days after installing the spar. Then we reinforce the spar with steel corners according to the diagram in Fig. Now the base is ready, and there is very little left.

Sun lounger

What the flooring of the sun lounger is made of has already been said. The flooring is attached to the frame using glue and nails. It is necessary to glue: the flooring not only holds the mattress, but also plays an important role in the overall mechanics of the structure.

For a boardwalk, 20x (80-100) boards are enough. You can take it thicker, it won’t be weaker, only heavier. But you need to decide on the thickness of the flooring right away in order to correctly calculate the location of the frame beam.

Each board requires 8 nails: 2 for the edges and 2 for each intersection with the spar flanges. If the flooring is plywood, then the nails are driven into the corners (it was on the dowel - no big deal) and into the flanges of the spar. Then we “nail” along the perimeter and along the axes of the spar flanges in increments of 80-120 mm.

We wait another day or two, lay out the mattress, make it - the bed is ready! Can be updated in any imaginable way.

With drawers

The diagram of the bed frame with drawers is shown in the figure. Since there are no drawers and their boards providing rigidity, strength and stability are provided by additional beams in height from the floor to the plane of laying the mattress, i.e. to the top of the frame beams. Beams only work in compression, so the cheapest material is suitable for them: 20 mm chipboard, etc.

At intersections with shelves and beams, appropriate cutouts are made in the beams. The shelves and beams remain intact, otherwise the structure will weaken. The beams are inserted into place by turning the frame over. Align the boxes, drop a couple of drops of PVA into the joints and dry for an hour and a half. Then they turn it over (glue is needed only to prevent the beams from falling out), check it again “on the box” and fasten it with corners according to the diagram.

After this, the box fittings are installed: slides, rollers. The flooring is installed and the bed is ready.

Notes:

1. The dimensions of the described beds can be increased to 2.4 x 2 m without changes in design. Strawberry lovers call such beds Swedish. Perhaps associating with the “Swedish troika”.
2. The spar of a single bed of this type can be made of a single board 40 x 100 mm.

Generally speaking, a podium bed is any bed without an under-bed space, with or without drawers. But fashion is fashion; It is generally accepted that a podium bed is a bed with a rigid decorative frame around the bed, with or without drawers, as in Fig. There is no big sense here, only the living space is taken away. But fashion is fashion. In the end, you can store something in a frame and arrange drawers.

Drawings of the podium bed are shown in the figure. The dimensions by the author of the design are given in centimeters. Durability and performance are satisfactory. But wooden boards They won’t use it anymore, you need laminate, MDF or plywood. And the cutting accuracy of the workpieces needs to be high, plus or minus 0.5 mm. Assembly specifications are in the list below the figure.

• A – side panel 1910x330 mm.
• B, C – headboard panels, 2 pcs. 1650x330 mm.
• D – strip 1932x150 mm.
• E – the same, 1710x150 mm.
• F – top panels of drawers, 2 pcs. 953x320 mm.
• G – crossbar 1910x100 mm.
• H – backrest sides, 2 pcs. 330x100 mm.
• I – far walls of drawers, 2 pcs. 778x240 mm.
• J – drawer sides, 4 pcs. 760x240 mm.
• K – internal panels, 2 pcs. 1910x330 mm.
• L – back, 1606x330 mm.
• M – central panels, 2 pcs. 1479x272 mm.
• N – central block crossbars, 2 pcs. 272x42 mm.
• O – podium partitions, 8 pcs. 330x81 mm.
• P – drawer bottoms, 788x748 mm.

Parts A – H are made from 22 mm boards; I – J from 16 mm board; K – O is made of 19 mm chipboard, and P is made of 10 mm plywood. In addition, you will need a beam of 27x27 mm for the transverse and 27x47 mm for the longitudinal supports of the mattress; There is no deck chair provided. Overall, it’s still a bit difficult.

Bunk

There are many varieties of bunk beds on sale, and no wonder: the product is in great demand, given the shortage of living space and the desire of many to have a second child, fueled by benefits. The bunk bed shown in the picture on the right differs from others in that it can be made independently with a minimum of cost and skill.

Note: think of homemade mattresses! More precisely, forget it. Experiments with a skeleton that has not yet formed are fraught with defects in the child’s musculoskeletal system!

The highlight of this bed is in the design of the corner posts, the weakest point of all bunk beds. In this case (see figure on the right) they are made each of two boards without inserts and external fasteners. The rigidity and support of the timber frames are provided by sections of ordinary floor plinth on glue and screws; The joint of the boards is also glued. The bottom of the upper frame, so that the corners and heads of the screws do not become an eyesore, is sewn up with thin fiberboard with a decorative coating using glue and small nails.

The width of the bed in the figure shows the minimum allowable width; it can be increased to 710 mm. It is impossible to make it even wider; the assembly principle does not allow obtaining the required strength. Length – maximum permissible, based on growth. Small ones, unlike adults, are not at all worried if they have to sleep in a rookery that is too large for them.

Attic

Another popular bed and sleeping product is the loft bed. Usually it is arranged in a niche, see fig. Purchased ones are a rather complex (and expensive) design with metal elements of strength. But a mattress tray that is in no way inferior to them in strength can be made yourself from the same fifty-fifty timber and 20 mm plywood, see fig. on right. Pay attention to the order of inserting the beams at the ends; it must be followed.

The plywood sheathing on top and bottom needs to be solid. Since the dimensions of a standard plywood sheet are in no way sufficient for sleeping, each shield is assembled from two parts on nails and glue using gusset strips from the same plywood 60-80 mm wide and the length of the internal size of the frame cell. The scarves will go inward; The shields are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws and gluing, as described at the beginning, in increments of 60-80 mm.

When installed in a niche, the pallet is mounted on a rectangular frame made of 80-100 mm steel angle. It is highly advisable to make the staircase steel and use it as an additional support: welded to the frame and with “nickels” on the floor. A suspension bracket around a corner or two needs to be made with support: a bracket, as in the figure, fittings from a triangular corner in the corners, through bolts 12-16 mm with washers 60-80 mm in diameter under the heads.

Mounting racks to the ceiling - made of steel pipe not less than 30 mm with flanges welded at the top. Fastening each rack to the ceiling - at least at 3 points, evenly distributed around the circumference or perimeter of the flange, with 10-12 mm bolts in steel anchor collets. In this case, if one bolt becomes loose, the others will go awry and still hold, and the slanted gap will immediately let you know that repairs are needed. When fastening to one point or several in a line, a sudden collapse cannot be ruled out.

Notes:

1. Don’t be tempted by hooks for chandeliers, even if they hold tons according to the specifications. The chandelier does not climb to its place every evening and does not descend from there in the morning. And she doesn’t toss and turn in her sleep.
2. And most importantly, before you start building a loft bed, make sure that the walls and ceiling can support it!

Folding

A folding bed is already relevant for adults living in cramped conditions. There are folding mechanisms on sale (see figure) that allow you to make one yourself. The legs (bottom on the left side of the figure and on the right in the central one) recline under the influence of their own weight. The mattress, of course, needs a hard base.

The support requirements are indicated in the specification for the mechanism, but they are low and allow the bed to be installed in rooms with ordinary walls and floors. The principle of operation of the mechanism is such that the force circulates inside it and little is transmitted to the external surfaces.

When choosing a mechanism, you need to pay attention to the design of the dampers, whether they are gas-lift or spring. The first ones work smoothly if the weight of the frame with the mattress is within certain limits. If it turns out to be larger, the frame will come out of the niche with difficulty, and will immediately clatter and clatter, but there is no adjustment. Spring dampers are more expensive, but are adjusted on site to the weight of the bed.

There are also ready-made frames with a mattress on sale, see fig. left. This one can only be attached to the floor, but the price is less than 10,000 rubles. you can't buy a good one.

To install the folding beds described above, you need a wardrobe: the legs spoil the view, but you can’t hide them, they have to fold down. There are also floating folding beds, see fig. on the right, not spoiling the interior when raised. However, due to the heavy loads on the mechanism, this design is not for the DIYer. Even among many furniture companies, only a few can make decent floating beds.

Nowadays it is fashionable to make furniture yourself at home, and every year the number of home craftsmen is increasing. Some people prefer to purchase blanks and assemble them from the necessary furniture, and someone does all the work themselves from start to finish. A homemade bed can be very simple or with intricate shapes and patterns. It's not just about skill and availability of equipment - personal preferences and financial capabilities play an important role. In this article we will tell you how to make a bed with your own hands from various materials.

In order for the product to please you and to be able to use it for a long time, you need to approach the matter very responsibly, realizing the limits of your capabilities. It is necessary to select a suitable model and prepare the tool taking into account the material used.

Required Tools

Depending on the material chosen, certain tools will be required to work with it.

For working with metal

• Electric welding machine.
• Bulgarian.
• File.
• Metal brush.
• Electric drill.
• Roulette.

For working with wood

• Jigsaw. If the product is made of boards, you can get by with a hacksaw.
• Screwdriver.
• Electric drill.
• Roulette.
• Construction corner.
• Pencil.
• Plane.
• Chisel.
• Grinder machine.

Concerning Supplies, then we’ll talk about this separately, considering this or that model.

Material selection

Materials for making a bed:

1. Metal corner.
2. Profile or round pipe.
3. Solid wood.
4. Plywood.

The above materials can be used either individually or in combination. So, a metal bed can be equipped wooden backs, and the product is made of plywood and assembled on a frame made of timber. There can be many options, and you can understand this in more detail by reading the article.

Location

The first step is to clearly determine what the dimensions of the future bed will be, taking into account its location. It is possible that you are modernizing your bedroom, changing its design, then you can move away from the usual bed placement patterns and find a new place for it. If so, then pay attention to a number of tips that will help with this.

• Do not place the bed with the head of the bed facing the window opening, as if the window is open there will be a draft and your head may get blown out.
• If you place the head of the bed towards the doorway, you will not be able to see the person entering the bedroom.
• It is better not to have a chandelier hanging above the bed. It can break and fall on a person lying in bed.
• In uninsulated houses, the outer walls are very cold, so it is better not to place the bed in such places.
• A shelf that is precariously nailed to the wall above your head can also cause a lot of trouble.
• IN narrow bedroom a bed located in the center of the room will not allow you to move freely. In addition, this arrangement may cause discomfort.
• Many people leave a place at the head of the room for a laptop. Note that this “time thief” will in this case deprive you of many hours of proper rest.

It may seem like there is no room left for a bed in the bedroom, but this is not the case. We have only given recommendations, and you can decide for yourself how relevant they are in your case.

Wooden bed

Don't be fooled by the apparent simplicity of the design. You need to be prepared for the fact that you will have to work a lot to make a bed from solid wood. If you are determined, then there is every chance to do something original while saving money. It is quite natural that it is not easy to immediately decide on the design of the bed, so first look at a few photos of wood products.

Photos of wooden beds

Having chosen the product you like, you can find a similar drawing on the Internet or draw it yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the room and personal preferences. Often, home craftsmen take a drawing of a bed and remake it to suit themselves, removing or adding something.

From the array

If you are not going to sleep on boards, then when planning the size of the bed you need to take into account the dimensions of the mattress. If you have not purchased it yet, then you need to take care of this in advance or find out the standard sizes on selling sites and build on this data. If you plan to make a bed of non-standard sizes, it is important to know that the mattress will have to be made to order.

A custom-made mattress will cost a little more.

It is clear that in a relatively short article it will not be possible to describe the manufacture of several wooden beds, and we are not striving for this. Based on the example given, you can understand how to assemble a bed from solid wood.

Let's look at an example of making a wooden bed for a 200x160 cm mattress, if you have a minimum of tools - only the most necessary ones.

The actual dimensions of the mattress often differ from those declared by the manufacturer, and to a smaller extent. After purchasing a mattress, measure it, and then adjust the dimensions of the bed to fit it.

If there is no drawing with a bed suitable for the size of the mattress, then you can take any one you like as a basis, altering it to your size. If the design is very simple, then you can draw a sketch yourself.

Let’s say that after checking the dimensions of the mattress it turned out that its length and width are one centimeter less than stated - 199x159 cm. The following material will be needed:

• Beam 50×40 mm, length 209 cm – 19 pcs.
• Planed board 22×100 mm, length 159.5 cm – 18 pcs.
• PVA glue (furniture).
• Self-tapping screws 41 and 65 mm.

Having a clear idea of ​​the quantity and size of the required material, you can go to the store to buy it.

Making a frame

The frame can be assembled on the floor or on four stools.

So, we need to make a rectangle with internal dimensions of 200x160 cm, which corresponds to the dimensions of the mattress + 1 cm tolerance. Each side of the frame will consist of three beams assembled into a single structure.

• Of 19 pcs. purchased timber 40×50 mm you need to select 4 pieces. the smoothest and with the minimum number of knots.
• For further work, you need to saw off the excess at a right angle. With sufficient skills, you can mark the timber, and then, using a construction angle, draw a cut line. If you cannot cut straight along the line with a hacksaw, then it is better to use a miter box.
• You should get 2 bars of 160 cm each and 2 bars of 208 cm each (the internal size of the bed length is 200 cm + 2 bars of 4 cm each).
• The cleanest side of the bars will be used as the front side (top of the bed), so we will place the bars with this side down.
• You will need 4 more bars with the same dimensions. You also need to cut 2 bars of 200 cm each, and 2 bars of 168 cm each (the internal size of the bed width is 160 cm + 2 bars of 4 cm each).
• In order for the frame to be strong, the corner joints must be overlapped, so for the second row we use bars of a different size, which we cut last.
• Glue is applied to the bars of the first layer, and then the bars of the second row are laid and secured with self-tapping screws. Excess glue must be removed immediately, otherwise it will interfere with surface grinding later.
• Now the bars of the third row are attached in exactly the same way.

• You need to check that the corners of the bed are assembled at an angle of 90˚. To do this, let's measure the dimensions of the assembled frame diagonally - they should be the same.
• After the glue has dried, you can continue working.
• Since our mattress is 159 cm wide, this size is quite large - the boards we use can sag. To eliminate this, in the center of the bed, from one back to the other, from below, you need to make a stiffening rib. To make it you will need 2 bars, each 2 m long. They are also fastened together and installed in the same plane with the bottom of the bed. This is clearly visible in the photo.

The bed being manufactured has 4 legs located in the corners, but to be on the safe side, you can install a fifth support point in the center - then the base will definitely not bend.

• We will make the legs from two 40x50 mm bars, fastened to each other. Their height is selected according to the owner’s preference in such a way that they will be attached to the lower two bars.
• Having glued and secured the legs with self-tapping screws, we wait until the glue dries, and only after that we turn the bed over to the position in which it will now be permanently located.

• To make a base for a mattress along the sides of the bed frame, you need to secure the remaining 50x40 mm timber (or existing scraps), since it is to this that the boards will be attached. The reference point will be the lower edge of the upper beam of the frame.
• The width of the internal part of our product is 160 cm, so in order to avoid squeaking, the board can be made 5 millimeters shorter - 159.5 cm (or a little less).

• Having sanded the boards, you need to lay them on the frame so that their sides do not touch the walls of the frame, and secure them.
• Since the screws will be screwed into the edge of the board, you will need to drill holes for them in each board using a thin drill.
• As for the distance between the boards, we find it experimentally. In our case, the length of the inner part of the bed is 200 cm. We will retreat 5 mm from the edges. 199 cm left. Divide by 16 (number of boards). 199/16 = 12.44 cm. Round it up, and it turns out that you need to apply markings on the support beam every 12.4 cm. Since the width of the board is 10 cm, the gap between them will be 2.4 cm, which completely suits us.

• If you need to get a larger distance between the boards, then you need to reduce their number and again perform the calculations according to the scheme we have given.
• Now we need to sand the entire structure. To do this, it is better to take the bed outside the room, as there will be a lot of dust.
• It is convenient to use a grinder or a drill with an attachment on which the sandpaper is attached. After mechanized processing, you need to complete the process manually using fine-grained sandpaper.

• The bed must be primed and varnished in several steps, each layer is applied after the previous layer has dried. The work is best done using a spray gun. As a last resort, you can use a brush, but it is important to understand that the appearance of the applied coating will not be the same as when using a spray gun.

You may have noticed that we still have 3 boards left. We will make a backrest out of them, as in the photo.

The height of the backrest is 45 cm and the width is 170 cm, but this is not important, since it will not be integral with the bed - we will fix it on the wall at the same level as the mattress.

Making it is not at all difficult. Three boards are sawn off to 170 cm each. From the scraps we make 11 boards of 45 cm each. If there are not enough boards of 45 cm each, then 2 boards of 40-42 cm each can be screwed through one board. Just like the bed, the backrest needs to be given a presentable look , varnishing it.

The backrest can be hung on hooks, only in this case it will knock on the wall. More practical is to firmly fix the backrest to the wall. Now the wooden bed can be used.

Video: making a wooden bed

Chipboard bed: step-by-step instructions

Making structures from chipboard may seem very difficult due to the characteristics of this material. If you cut, sand and glue the edges at home, then some difficulties arise, especially with we will open the chipboard, as the decorative layer can be damaged. Many problems can be avoided if you make a drawing in advance and order the production of parts in furniture workshop. At home, all that remains is to assemble the structure.

This time we will look at the process of making a small single bed with two drawers. Here is an example of cutting a standard chipboard sheet for one bed.

From the remains of the stove you can make shelves for books or something else needed in the household.

So, we have a ready-made set of parts that need to be assembled to make a bed.

To do the job you will need the following tool:

• screwdriver;
• drill (you can use a screwdriver instead);
• jigsaw;
• confirmation drill;
• bit extension;
• bits (cross and hex);
• mallet;
• pencil;
• ruler;
• awl;
• roulette.

You will also need consumables:

• Confirmations – 50 pcs.
• Stickers or plugs for confirmations – 50 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 3.8×45 mm – 15 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 3.5×30 mm – 30 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 3.5×16 mm – 40 pcs.
• Furniture corner – 12 pcs.
• Direct roller – 8 pcs.
• Wide furniture handles – 2 pcs.
• Plastic legs – 12 pcs.
• Bar 20×45 mm (3 m) – 3 pcs.

Now let's start assembling.

Since a 200x70 cm mattress will be used, we will adjust the existing slats to the width of the mattress, making them 70 cm long. As a result, there will be 12 of them.

On ten slats on one side you need to fix the corners.

First, let's make drawers that can be pushed under the bed. First of all, let's assemble the frame. To do this, we lay out the blanks so that the part covered with the edge is at the top. When assembling, it is important not to mix up the sides. It’s good if the edge is not glued to the end of the inner part, then you won’t get confused. If the edges of the parts are glued in a circle (which is incorrect), then you need to try to fold the box without twisting it, and then attach the bottom. Once you are sure that everything matches, you can begin assembly.

Stepping back about 3 cm from the bottom (or top) edge, you need to drill a hole with a confirmation drill. This must be done carefully, as one awkward movement will ruin the part. The thickness of the chipboard is 16 mm, so we retreat 8 mm from the edge of the workpiece, slightly core it and drill a hole without the slightest deviation.

If you have never assembled furniture from chipboard, then first practice on unused leftover sheets.

By connecting the parts, we get such a box.

In order to screw the bottom, eight confirmats are enough - 2 on each side. These drawers are not designed to hold very heavy items because the plastic casters are not designed for that.

All that remains is to attach the handle and install the rollers. One box is ready, now the second one is assembled in the same sequence.

Putting the finished drawers aside, let's start assembling the bed. Since the drawers will be installed on one side, you need to assemble 3 parts together, using 3 confirmats on each side.

As a result, we will get a “bench” like this.

Now let's collect decorative box, thanks to which the mattress will be fixed. This part is not as high as the base of the bed, so 2 confirmats will be used on each side.

We put the resulting frame on the bed frame so that it does not interfere with pulling out the drawers, and we connect them together from the inside with 3.5 × 30 mm self-tapping screws.

You need to nail down the plastic legs.

Let's start making the fins. On the front of the frame, you need to draw a line from one edge to the other along the height of the bed frame. Now we will fasten the bars with corners screwed to them every 13 cm, so that their lower part is aligned along the line.

Instead of fins made from boards, you can use a laminated chipboard cut to size.

After this, all that remains is to screw the bars to the opposite side using 30 mm self-tapping screws.

Having rolled up the drawers and laid out the mattress, you can start using the bed.

As we see, when the right approach It won’t be difficult to assemble a bed from chipboard at home. The design can be of any size, as in the following video.

Video: making a double podium bed from chipboard

Pallet bed

Beds made from pallets are now in fashion. At first glance, it may seem that this kind of design would be appropriate only in some provincial dacha, but this is not so, because beds made from pallets can also be found in houses with rather rich furnishings.

Let's move on from words to action. Let's consider one of the options for assembling a bed from pallets. How many of them will you need? It all depends on the size and design of the product being manufactured. So, a single bed with legs can be made from 2 pallets, and without legs - from 4. We used 8 pallets to make our double bed.

If there is such a possibility, then you need to choose as complete pallets as possible. They need to be sanded.

All pallets should be painted using non-toxic wood paint. Since wood is very hygroscopic, most likely the pallets will need to be painted 2-3 times.

If there is such a desire, then you can open the blanks with varnish.

Having laid the first row of pallets, you need to fasten them together. If the wood is very strong, then holes are drilled for the screws.

Then the second row is laid.

All pallets are fastened together using metal plates, are fixed with wood screws.

Thanks to this simple technology You can make a pretty decent bed out of pallets.

You can also make a back from pallets.

You can assemble some furniture from the remains of pallets and install it near the bed. In general - who likes what.

From plywood

A product made from plywood will not surprise anyone, but it can also be used to make furniture at home. We will use FSF brand sheets, since not all plywood is suitable for making a bed.

Let's look at an example of making a bed for a spring mattress 1900x900x200 mm.

Materials for making a bed

The thickness of the plywood used can be 12, 15 or 18 mm. Thin sheets can be used when fastening plywood with screws. A bed made from 18 mm plywood will be more durable, but very heavy, so it is preferable to use sheets 15 mm thick - they are much stronger than standard laminated chipboard.

• Plywood 2.44×1.22 m - 1 sheet.
• Beam 30×40 mm - 2 pcs. 1.9 m each.
• Beam 30×40 mm - 7 pcs. 0.9 m each.
• If the edges of the parts need to be pasted over, then purchase additional PVC edge. Its consumption will be no more than 8 p/m.
• Glue “Moment” - 1 tube.
• Screws 5×40 mm - 26 pcs.
• Screws 5×60 mm - 12 pcs.
• Screws 3×9 mm - 8 pcs.
• Thrust bearings - 4 pcs.

As for the tools, they are the same as for working with chipboard. Instead of screws, you can use wood screws.

The side wall of the back side of the bed has big sizes in height. This is done so that the drawers pushed under the bed do not rest against the walls. If there are no boxes, then side walls can be made the same.

Making a bed

From an existing sheet of plywood you need to cut out parts corresponding to the drawing.

If desired, you can use laminated plywood. In this case, it is important to consider that cutting such a sheet at home without damaging laminated coating, very difficult. In addition, the edges will then need to be covered with furniture edges.

To cut plywood you need to use a saw with small tooth, and move the jigsaw slowly - this way we will get an even cut without chips. As a result, we should have parts of the following sizes:

1. Front back – 932×650 mm.
2. Rear backrest – 932×500 mm.
3. Front side panel – 1900×200 mm.
4. Rear side panel – 1900×350 mm (if without cabinets, then we also make 1900×200 mm).

• The ends of all parts must be sanded. To do this, you can use a small wooden block wrapped with medium-grit sandpaper.
• After this, we assemble the bed frame.

Bed base

• The backs are attached to the side strips with 5x40 mm screws (2 on each front side, and 3 on the back).
• Then we screw the beam to the side rails of the bed using 5x40 mm screws (7 pieces per side). The head of the screws should be slightly recessed into the timber. If you drive deeper, the screw will go right through the plywood.
• We will fasten the crossbars made of timber to horizontal beams with 5x60 mm self-tapping screws (1 for each point).
• Using 5x40 mm screws, screw the bars to the backs from the inside (3 self-tapping screws for each).
• At the last stage, we will screw the thrust bearings from below to the backrests - 2 screws 3x9 mm for each.
• We install the bed, lay the mattress and use our product.

If instead spring mattress If you use a soft one on the frame, then you need to cut out the bottom from plywood and screw it to the bars on top.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in making a bed from plywood.

Made of metal

If you have some welding skills, you can make a metal bed. We will not even consider the bolted connection option, since such a product will very quickly become loose.

Look at the photo of a collapsible metal bunk bed. Agree that she looks very presentable.

For its manufacture the following materials were needed:

• Profile pipe 50×25 mm – 8 m.
• Profile pipe 40×40 mm – 8 m.
• Profile pipe 20×20 mm (or 15×15) – 40 m.

In addition to the pipes, metal primer and hammer paint were purchased.

One of the advantages of such a bed is the absence of bent parts, so a pipe bending machine is not needed to make it.

If you buy pipes rather than use those that have been lying in the garage for several years, then do not opt ​​for rusty ones, since they will then need to be cleaned for a long time.

Frame making

Since the bed is collapsible, its parts can be made in parts. Let's start with the backs.

• The base will be 40x40 mm pipes. We cut them into equal parts of 2 m each. If the ceilings are low, then you can reduce them to 185 cm.
• The width of our backs will be 90 cm, so we will cut 8 identical pieces of 82 cm each (90-(4+4) = 82) from a 20x20 mm pipe, and 8 pipes of 30 cm each.
• For now we will use only half of the prepared material.
• On a flat plane, parallel to each other, you need to lay the rack pipes.
• Stepping back 40 cm from the bottom and 1 cm from the edge, a pipe 82 cm long is grabbed.
• You need to check with a construction angle that the angles are set correctly.
• After 95 cm, the second pipe is tacked.
• We return to the first one, and use tacks to assemble the grille - 2 pipes of 30 cm each and a crossbar of 82 cm.
• We do the same with the second lattice.
• After checking the angles and alignment of the tacked parts, they can be thoroughly welded.
• The second backrest is made in the same way.

Now let's start making the shelves.

• We will also cut the 50×25 mm profile pipe into 4 equal parts of 2 m each.
• The width of the shelves will be 88 cm, so we will need 26 pieces of pipe 20x20 mm, 83 cm each (88-(2.5+2.5)=83).
• 2 pipes are laid on edge parallel to each other.
• We mark 13 cm from the edges and grab one jumper at a time, placing them along the bottom edge.
• We lay out the remaining 11 jumpers every 14 cm and grab them.
• After checking, the shelf is scalded, and the second one is assembled in exactly the same way.
• To the shelf that will be installed at the top, it is necessary to weld a fence of the same height as the height of the grille on the back. The pipe used for fencing must be bent and not welded at an angle. If you don’t have a pipe bending machine, you can fill it with sand and bend it in a vice or between two supports. This pipe must be welded in the middle of the bed, as in the photo.

• In the same way, 3 more vertical posts are welded, but it will not be welded to the back, so you need to weld a small strip at the end.

The time has come to assemble the structure together; for this we will use some more welding.

Since our bed is collapsible, we will make universal fasteners for it.

• From a 20x20 mm pipe you need to cut 16 pieces of 10 cm each and weld them to the backs at the junction.
• Each attachment point uses 2 tubes. They are inserted into the grate pipe and secured to the back. If this is not done, then you will not be able to assemble the bed, since the attachment points will not match.
• After checking the correct location of the part, we thoroughly weld the tubes to the back.

• Using a grinder, you need to process the welding seams.

Assembly

• Now let's assemble the bed.
• In order for the dismountable parts to hold securely together, they will need to be secured with self-tapping screws (after final assembly).

It is also necessary to make a small ladder, the dimensions of which can be arbitrary.

• We attach it to the shelves with bolts and nuts.

• At the final stage of work, the entire structure is disassembled, degreased, primed and painted.
• Once the paint has dried, the bed can be brought into the house and assembled.
• To close the ends of the pipes, specially designed plastic plugs are purchased.

If the bed is made for children, then its length can be significantly reduced.

As you can see, you can make a beautiful and durable metal bed at home.

Manufacturing of decorative elements

If you want to do something original, then when making a bed, instead of standard profile pipes, you can use forging elements.

Such parts are sold in specialized stores or made to order. Good results can be achieved using bent parts, and you can bend them yourself.

Bed legs

People may have the misconception that the legs of a metal bed will look rough. If you set a goal, this element can also be made very attractive.

Video: making a metal bed with forging elements

Design selection

An incorrectly selected bed can cause a lot of inconvenience. Here are some tips from experts in this field:

1. It is best if the bed is made from natural materials. When using laminated chipboard, plywood, laminate and other materials with synthetic additives (glue, etc.), the products must be certified, intended for the manufacture of furniture.
2. Bed size has great importance. A single room can be 100, 90 or 80 cm wide, and a double room can be 200, 180 and 160 cm wide. If there are no restrictions on the size of the room, then you need to act on the principle - the bigger the better. The length of the bed should be 20 cm longer than the person’s height (minimum 10 cm).
3. Structures made from chipboard (and laminated chipboard) are the most unreliable and brittle.
4. A solid bed bottom does not allow the mattress to ventilate, but too few fins can cause the mattress to become deformed.

Since we are talking about a mattress, there are some nuances of choice here.

1. The mattress should not be hard. It should be soft enough, but not too deformed under the weight of the person lying on it, so it needs to be selected individually. For a double bed, you can choose 2 mattresses of different elasticity. To make sure that the mattress is right for you, you need to lie on it for 15-20 minutes before purchasing.
2. If you purchased a hard mattress, then you can put a thick mattress cover on it, made from latex or memory mold (3 to 10 cm thick). If you haven’t decided on your choice, then it is better to purchase a mattress with double-sided rigidity.

Concerning design features beds, then it is a matter of personal preference and convenience. In a small room you can place a bed, under which there will be drawers, foldable or pulled out from the podium. In a large room, you can give free rein to your imagination by making a wide bed.

Video: how to choose a bed for your bedroom

Single

A single bed is installed in cases where it is planned that only one person will sleep on it, be it a child or an adult. Also, 2 or more beds can be installed in one room, for example for two children. Be that as it may, you first need to decide which design is suitable, and then start manufacturing. Photos of homemade single beds can help with this.

Photos of single beds

Double

As a rule, married couples sleep together (at least for the first few years), and in order for this bed to be comfortable to sleep on, you need to take care of its size and design. Look at the photo exhibition of double products.

Photos of double beds

Bunk bed

Usually a double bed is made for children. It can be either a simple bed or a fairytale castle in which the child will be happy to fall asleep. When choosing the design of this kind of children's bed, you need to think about both convenience and design.

Video: designing a children's bed

Photos of bunk beds

Drawings and diagrams: bed assembly

Increasingly, owners country houses They try to decorate the interiors of bedrooms with hand-made wooden furniture. Self-made furniture allows you to demonstrate the personal talent of the designer and show others own feeling style, save on expensive interior items. If you want to surround yourself with stylish and high-quality furniture, then a do-it-yourself double bed is suitable for this, which is easy to make by listening to our advice.

The bed plays a huge role in the life of every person, so its choice should be approached with full responsibility. A comfortable sleeping bed will guarantee healthy sleep, reliable support for the spine, and good health. That is why this piece of furniture can be found in every home.

Today, manufacturers offer a lot of different sizes, shapes, and materials for making beds, sometimes you don’t even immediately understand which one is relevant, since the choice is too huge. Therefore, first, let’s try to understand the standard sizes of beds for sleeping and relaxing. In size they can be:

• DIY single bed made of solid wood (width 80-120 cm, length 190-220 cm). This model is optimal for one person;
• do-it-yourself one-and-a-half bed made of wood for the bedroom (width 120-160 cm, length 190-220 cm). Suitable for one person who likes to sleep freely, or for a baby to relax with mom;
• wooden double bed with mattress (width 160-230 cm, length 200-220 cm). The models are intended for married couples; such designs are comfortable and practical.

Was it decided to make a double bed with a backrest on your own? The main details in the work will be:

• classic bed made of timber;
• drawings that help in the preparation and manufacture of structural elements of the product;
• action plan dividing operations into stages.

It’s worth starting work on creating a bed by creating a drawing in which all the details are carefully described with an exact indication of their dimensions. It is also required to calculate the current quantity of materials and accessories, as well as their cost. Mistakes at this stage of work can lead to disastrous consequences. IN best case scenario you will have to spend more time on additional operations, in the worst case, you will have to purchase new material to replace damaged parts.

If you have little experience in these matters, you can use ready-made diagrams and drawings. For experienced craftsman creating a bed for two people of a non-standard shape is not difficult. For beginners in this matter, we recommend choosing a simple rectangular shape.

Preparing tools and necessary parts

During the work process, you will need to purchase the following items from the nearest building materials store.

Headboard materials

The volume of materials is calculated based on the drawing of the future product indicating the dimensions of each of the necessary elements. It is better to purchase a little more natural wood so that there is definitely enough to make the entire structure.

Experts in the manufacture of furniture for residential premises recommend selecting high quality wood without knots when making a double bed frame. Having a large number of knots will require a lot of sanding time. And save cash You can purchase material for the supports and slats of the lattice. The material for the supports may be second grade, it costs slightly less. And for slats, choose the cheapest options possible.

If you decide to make a bed with lifting mechanism made of metal, then you will need to buy materials in larger quantities, because in addition to the main frame, you should make a lifting frame for the sleeping bed. Be sure to include in the drawing both the type of building material and the type of lifting mechanism.

As for the tools that are relevant for work, you will need:

• measuring tape for taking measurements of space and structural details;
• circular;
• a special Kreg Jig set that allows you to drill holes at an angle;
• electric drill for making holes;
• adhesive composition for bonding wood surfaces;
• adjustable square;
• self-tapping screws (30,50,60 mm);
• water-based acrylic varnish;
• wood stain, which allows you to emphasize the natural beauty of wood and improve its performance;
• brushes for painting wooden surfaces;
• sandpaper or grinding machine for polishing parts of the future design;
• putty for wood surfaces.

The process of sawing parts for the bed must be performed strictly following the dimensions of the drawing. Next, we will describe step by step how to make a double bed with your own hands.

Tools

Assembly process of elements

Many people wonder how to make a double bed with their own hands, where to start? The assembly of the future structure can be divided into stages, which will allow each operation to be described in more detail.

The process of making a double bed from wood with your own hands begins with the main frame. It must certainly be durable and have high strength characteristics in order to serve its owners for a long time.

Using a drill, make holes in the prepared parts for fastenings with a diameter of 30 mm. Thoroughly clean the ends of the boards with sandpaper, or better yet, with a sanding machine, so that there are no nicks left on the surfaces. Apply wood adhesive in two layers, allowing each layer to dry thoroughly. After the varnish has dried, drilled holes insert the purchased screws, fastening the boards using a screwdriver or screwdriver.

If excess glue appears at the joints of the boards, they must be removed with a damp cloth. At the end of the work, check the straightness of the corners of the product with a construction square. When the frame is dry, paint it with stain. Modern models double beds can be equipped with a solid or slatted bottom. The first option is made from a single sheet of plywood. To create slats for a double bed, plywood is cut into bars of the same width.

All boards must be pre-sanded

The boards are fastened with self-tapping screws

Ready frame

Back shield

The headboard of the bed is worth making for several reasons:

• this decorative element enhances the beauty of the entire structure, allows you to create a cozy atmosphere in the room, gives the interior a complete, laconic look;
• he performs reliable protection for walls from getting dirty, rubbing;
• It's always nice to lean your elbows on the headboard.

Often a wooden double bed has an impressive weight, so the headboard should be removable. If the structure needs to be moved to another location in the future, the backrest can be easily dismantled. For the back use furniture board, made of two boards 6 m long. They are cut into pieces, which are spliced ​​into a shield using dowels and glue. To ensure that the holes for the dowels completely coincide, place marks on the edge of the board and punch small nails without heads into them using pliers.

To give sleeping place more beautiful view, the headboard can be decorated in various ways, covered with foam rubber and covered with textiles. If you do not plan to cover the back panel with upholstery, be sure to sand it thoroughly so that no nicks remain on the surface. A polished surface is pleasant to touch, but poorly treated wood can cause splinters. Next, the surface is treated with a primer, varnished or painted to increase the protective properties of the wood.

Headboard

Cutting out the headboard

Backrest fastening

Installation of lamellas

Next you need to make slats for the bottom of the bed. To make the process go faster, create a standard slats and use the template to make the rest of the slats. Align the ends of the products, outlining the line along which you need to cut. When a sufficient number of lamellas have been made, they are thoroughly polished. Next, each of them is individually fixed inside the frame of the future product using self-tapping screws.

It is important to understand what level of load will be placed on the slats. The greater the total weight of the users of the double bed and the mattress itself, the stronger the slats should be. Make them wide and mount them on the frame with minimal spacing. If the load on the frame is minimal, then the slats can be made narrow and mounted away from each other.

Lay on top of the lamellas orthopedic mattress, which is selected taking into account the structural characteristics of the body and the age of its owners. This product for two people will allow you to get a good night's sleep and restore strength.

Slats for the base

Fastening the slats

Legs

To make the supports, use a beam with a cross-section of 10x10 cm. From it you will need to make 6 bars of 10.5 cm in length, which are carefully polished. To determine where to install the central supports, measure half a meter from the ends of the support beam. Draw straight lines in the center, outline the perimeter of the supports, which will allow you to drill holes quickly and without errors. Installation support legs They do it on the frame using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws.

If you don’t have time to make the supports yourself or you want to give the structure some mobility, you can choose caster supports for it. Such details will allow you to easily move the bed for two people to another place in the room. You can also choose metal supports of curved shapes and original colors. This will allow you to diversify the design of a standard bed made by yourself.

Leg blanks

Headboard design

The external aesthetics of the bed largely depends on the shape of the headboard. It can be round, square, rectangular, or have a non-standard shape. For example, have the shape of a star, a dome. To make a custom back, you will need a paper pattern and an electric jigsaw.

Note that the shape of the backrest will largely determine the location of its attachment to the structure frame. Non-standard forms It is better not to mount it on a sleeping bed, but to hang it on the wall. As a result, the headboard and the bed will exist separately, but if you move the structure close to the headboard, you will get a complete picture.

No less important are the materials from which the headboard is made and decorated. Suitable for expensive interiors:

• genuine leather, suede are very expensive materials, so they are suitable for creating stylish, luxury interiors in the bedroom;
• eco-leather - excellent performance parameters are demonstrated by this alternative to genuine leather. Eco-leather is inexpensive, practical, beautiful, and therefore is often used in furniture production;
• velor, velvet are beautiful, stylish options, however, they can accumulate dust over time. Therefore, you will have to take care of this upholstery a little more often.

The material is used to upholster the wooden frame of the head of the bed, fixing the joints with construction stapler on wooden shield. If the back is of an impressive size, you can fix it upholstery in several places on the front side. To make the headboard of the bed look neat, ugly staples are covered with decorative buttons.

The use of rhinestones and Swarovski crystals allows you to decorate the headboard of a double bed that you made yourself. These small decorative elements can be used to create mosaics, ornaments, curved lines and designs. More good options the decor of the headboard of a homemade bed for two people is metal forged elements, wood carving. But it is worth remembering that when decorating a bed for two in this way, its cost increases significantly. But the finished product will be unique and inimitable.

Video

Made from solid wood they are a real work of art. These furniture items are distinguished by their naturalness, durability, and aesthetics.

They are not only comfortable and attractive, but also guarantee a sound and healthy sleep. Of course, beds made from natural solid wood are an expensive pleasure, and not everyone can afford them.

But, if you have a little skill in carpentry, know how to work with electric and hand tools, and you have free time, then you can make such a piece of furniture on your own.

Natural solid wood is an elite and noble material. You can make a bed from solid wood with your own hands from different species:

Advice: what type of wood to choose when self-production beds - it's up to you. In this case, it is worth starting from financial capabilities, personal preferences and the characteristics of the bedroom.

Double bed drawing

To make a wooden bed yourself, you need:

• think over its design;
• determine the dimensions and design;
• select consumables;
• calculate the number of parts.

In order to avoid mistakes in the process of manufacturing and assembling a piece of furniture, as well as to correctly calculate consumables, it is necessary to make a drawing of the product. It is necessary to indicate on it, with millimeter accuracy, the dimensions of all individual parts, places of fastening of elements, and materials of manufacture.

You can make a drawing yourself, in a specialized furniture company, or using special computer programs.

Advice: if you doubt your own abilities, it is better to use the services of professionals. Otherwise, you may end up wasting expensive wood and making the bed will become a lengthy work step.

Tools and materials

After making the drawing, purchasing materials and other preparatory work, you need to prepare tools. During manufacturing and assembly individual elements you will need:

From materials prepare:

• screws, nails;
• plastic plugs;
• paints and varnishes;
• wood putty;
• Eurobolts.

Manufacturing and assembly

Now you can safely begin making individual elements of the bed and their further assembly. The flow of work will look like this:

Wood finishing

After making all the parts and carefully assembling the product, you need to clean it with a grinder. If you don't have one at hand, you can use sandpaper different grain sizes.

After this, all dust is removed from the product with a brush.

Optional bed Can be coated with stain of any shade. After it dries, the product is coated with two layers of varnish.

Photo

Solid wood beds are a real treat. Just admire:

Useful video

The manufacturing process can be seen in the following video:

Conclusion

In conclusion, it can be noted that knowing how to work with wood, having free time and necessary tools, making a stylish, practical, and most importantly easy-to-use bed on your own is quite simple in a timely manner and without any special financial costs.

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