How to properly insulate the floors of a cold attic with mineral wool? Why insulate attic floors? What is the best way to insulate an attic floor?

Heat, as we know, rises. And he safely leaves the premises through an uninsulated attic.

Losses in winter can reach up to 15%.

To eliminate these losses, regardless of the purpose of using the under-roof space, insulation of the attic floor using wooden beams is required.

Attic insulation is a whole complex of works, which, subject to technology and requirements, meets a number of criteria:

• High-quality thermal insulation of the attic prevents heat loss and the entry of cold air into the building, which significantly affects heating costs;
• IN summer period insulation of attic floors does not allow the building to warm up through the ceiling and allows you to maintain an optimal microclimate without resorting to additional air conditioning;
• Insulation in compliance with technological requirements is capable of allowing air to pass through and does not allow condensation to accumulate in the attic;
• The use of hydro- and vapor barriers protects wooden structures from the appearance of mold and mildew, which significantly increases their service life;
• Properly performed attic insulation work prevents the formation of ice and icicles.

Technology for insulating attic floors

After installation wooden beams, waterproofing of the ceiling is carried out. It prevents moisture penetration and additionally protects the insulation.

The waterproofing material can be a multilayer reinforced material made of polyethylene or polypropylene.

The ideal option for fastening the waterproofing is considered to be fastening under the beams in a continuous layer. If this cannot be done, the installation is carried out overlapping between the beams, overlapping the wooden structures, and secured with tape on top for tightness.

Direct insulation of the attic floor over wooden beams is carried out by laying heat-insulating materials between them.

When using bulk raw materials, the filling of all voids and the evenness of the surface are controlled. If the thickness of the insulation used is greater than the width of the wooden beams, additional installation of sheathing is required, fixed across the supporting structure.

In addition, it is necessary to provide options for covering the beams themselves with heat-insulating material to eliminate “cold bridges.”

Regardless of the type of finishing coating, it is advisable to lay another layer of waterproofing on top of the thermal insulation.

The floor of an insulated attic is made of boards laid across beams, plywood, and chipboard.

Video tips:

Insulating the attic with mineral wool

Mineral wool is a fairly popular raw material as a thermal insulator for floors. The material is cheap, non-flammable, can withstand fairly high temperatures, retains heat well and is easy to use.

Disadvantages include susceptibility to moisture, which requires good waterproofing when using it.

Found in rolls and slabs. Both types are suitable for thermal insulation. But the use of a roll version allows you to simultaneously cover beams. Laying is carried out close to the guides, trying not to crush the mineral wool.

Mineral wool is easy to install, so it is in demand for DIY projects. It is mandatory to use protective equipment when working with mineral wool.

Clothing that covers all parts of the body, gloves, as well as a respirator and goggles are required.

Polyurethane foam as an attic insulator

If you choose the ideal insulation according to quality characteristics, then polyurethane foam will lead the leaders.

The raw materials retain heat excellently, are non-flammable, durable, lightweight, resistant to external influences, non-hygroscopic, uninteresting to rodents.

But all its advantages outweigh the cost of raw materials. In small towns and villages, purchasing such insulation is problematic.

If a decision is made in favor of the characteristics, it is necessary to decide on the type of polyurethane foam insulation.

It is easier to install ready-made slabs made from this raw material, but this method has the disadvantage of joints and uncovered beams.

Polyurethane foam in the form of foam is applied by spraying and penetrates into all possible places. A thin layer is enough to obtain a protective effect.

Spraying polyurethane foam requires special equipment and certain skills.

So is polystyrene foam good?

Laying foam plastic slabs to insulate the attic floor between wooden beams can be done even by a novice, inexperienced, self-taught builder.

Installation is carried out on top of the film, tightly adjoining the slabs to each other and to the floors. The gaps are sealed with polyurethane foam.

A waterproofing material is laid on top and finishing is done.

The popularity of this insulation is dictated by its low cost, thermal insulation qualities and ease of installation.

All advantages are crossed out by the fire hazard of the raw materials. In addition to the low melting and ignition temperature, foam releases gases that are hazardous to health when heated.

Therefore, insulating wooden floors with foam plastic is not the best option. This heat insulator is more suitable for concrete slabs and exterior finishes.

Insulation with bulk materials

For bulk insulation Expanded clay or sawdust is used. Both heat insulators are environmentally friendly natural raw materials that retain heat well.

For backfilling, sheathing is installed in the attic. The bulk layer reaches 250–300 mm. A finishing board or plywood is laid on top.

Video on the topic:

When using expanded clay, it is necessary to carry out additional calculations on the load-bearing capacity of the floors. Expanded clay is not a lightweight insulation material and the ceiling may not withstand the load.

Sawdust, despite its apparent ease of use, requires additional processing and is not poured in its pure form, but is prepared special composition, in which sawdust is only one of the components.

To prepare the solution, the following materials are required:

• 10 parts sawdust;
• 1 part lime;
• 1 part cement;
• 5–10 parts of liquid with an antiseptic.

The choice of heat insulator for the attic and the technology for its installation depends on the required insulation characteristics and financial capabilities.

In any case, even minimal insulation will protect the structure and save on heating costs.

Heating the ceiling of a cool attic

Since the roof of a cool attic serves only the function of protecting against rain, snow and partial wind, special attention should be paid to insulating the soil. Thermal insulating heating is carried out using various thermal insulation materials with mandatory organization of wind protection, especially from the roof.

Thermal coating in two layers with mineral wool cylinders

Installing insulation is usually done directly on the floor of a cool attic.

Of course, if the attic doesn't work. This will save on a layer of waterproofing film, as well as on organizing a complete flooring.

Read below to learn how to insulate an attic ceiling and what materials can be used for this.

How thick is attic insulation?

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer does not depend on the construction of the attic ceiling on wooden beams or reinforced concrete.

Is there a thermal conductivity coefficient on the packaging of any insulation? And it has two meanings: A - for a dry environment and? B is for wet. The lower this coefficient, the better the insulating properties of the material.

Based on this value, the insulation of the lower part of the attic is calculated.

Attic insulation thickness:

where R0 is the heat transfer resistance coefficient, which is 4.15 m in the standard? °C/W.

Floor heating over wooden beams

In the majority small houses and cold roof villas use wooden ceilings, so their thermal insulation we will look at first.

Installation ceiling ceiling on wooden beams, as a rule, is carried out as follows:

1. Ground floor;
2. Vapor barrier;
3. The beams overlap;
4. insulation;
5. Waterproofing;
6. Completion.

The ceiling installation in a private house with a cold attic begins with the installation of load-bearing beams.

Since they usually have maximum length 4 meters, it is necessary to build supports or use metal programs for large areas.

Diagram of a wooden attic device by laying the heater in two layers

Once the beams are laid, a vapor barrier is created that blocks the cold attic. To do this, a vapor barrier film is attached to the bottom, which protects the insulation from moisture penetration from the lower room.

When you are performing rigid insulation on a floor, as with film, it is advisable to use special reinforced laminates made of polyethylene or polypropylene, as they are stronger and more firmly attached.

It is best for the protective layer to be hard.

However, building a wooden attic does not always allow this. If for some reason you are unable to place a vapor barrier under the beams, the film is placed between the two overlapping c's and secured with special adhesive tape to ensure a seal.

A wooden attic structure poses a risk of damage to supporting structures due to rotting.

Therefore, before the furnace is placed in a cold attic, wooden beams and strips are impregnated with special solutions that prevent the formation of rot and mold.

The attic roof is then insulated on beams, for which thermal insulation material is placed between them.

If you use loose insulation, it should be carefully aligned and tracked to fill any gaps.

Minimum insulation thickness for attic insulation wooden floor, calculated using the above formula, may be greater than the width of the supporting supports. In this case, the correct size is attached to you.

Then another layer of insulation is laid between them, with the obligatory covering of the joints of the previous layer.

The fact is that they are formed by so-called cold bridges, due to which it loses heat in the house.

Mansardi wood beams typically work with floor decks of regular treated stacked box panels or cross beams.

However, thick plywood, particle board, MDF and other similar materials can also be used as the final covering.

If you want to use a leveling screed as a finishing layer, the cold attic above the insulating layer must be watertight.

Heating the attic over a reinforced concrete slab

If you need to insulate your attic over reinforced concrete slabs, you can do it in two ways: with or without a box.

The first method is universal, but is most often used for light types of insulation.

In the attic in this case you will see:

1. The vapor barrier is carried out in a cool attic, which should cover the entire layer of insulation, even on the sides.

   Since the vapor barrier must be easily installed on the floor, there is no need to use special materials for this purpose - inexpensive polyethylene film will usually be made.

2. At the top of the film, a wooden stick with a width equal to half the required thickness is placed on the narrow side, which should have a cold attic heater.

   The distance between the rods is usually equal to the width of the cylinder or panel of the selected brand of insulation.

3. Among the boards is an attic heater. If the thickness requires more layers of thermal insulation material, it is laid by overlapping the joints of the previous layer.
4. They are completely identical to the already installed sticks. at the same distance from each other. Between them is a second layer of insulation in the attic.
5. Waterproof cool attic waterproofing installed on top.

   which is secured either with a special adhesive tape or with a thin stick adapted along the box. This level can be lowered if the waterproofing is of good quality cold roof already made from corrugated cardboard.

6. Sex lanes or traffic bridges are connected through sticks.

Since it is important that the ceiling under a cold roof is sufficiently insulated to save on heating costs in the home, I recommend using an overlay insulation system.

This decking will minimize the possibility of cold bridging across the wood studs since most of them will be insulated by the heater.

Another method of heating a cold attic of reinforced concrete slabs without using boxes is suitable where they are used to insulate solid, wet insulation that can withstand heavy loads without loss of property.

Scheme of a pressure block on a reinforced concrete block

In this case, the first section is in the attic.

The insulation of the attic plates is then completed with a layer of thermal insulation of the designed thickness.

A leveling screed is poured onto it. Estrich is already covering the first floor.

If the insulation of a concrete attic is made of aerated concrete and similar density and properties of materials, you can dispense with hydro- and vapor barrier and screed.

Attic Heater: Which Choice?

Before you insulate your attic roof, you must remove the insulation material that matches your enclosure.

Unfortunately, there is no universal option; it is better to insulate the attic. This choice depends on a number of factors, the most important of which are:

• Thermal insulation properties of the material;
• Fire safety;
• Expenses;
• Easy to install;
• Environmental compatibility;
• hygroscopicity;
• Power;
• Resistant to fire, temperature, acid and alkali.

You need to decide which of these factors is most important to you and which you can ignore.

Heating the first floor of a cool attic with mineral wool

Mineral wool is one of the most popular materials for floor insulation.

The best features of home attic insulation are the varieties based on basalt fibers called stone (basalt) cotton.

Insulation based on basalt fibers belongs to the class of non-combustible materials with a melting point above 1000 ° C; and has excellent thermal insulation properties.

Heating the attic on wooden beams - 5 levels of ceiling insulation work

However, it easily absorbs moisture, so the requirements for hydro- and vapor barrier are particularly high in use.

Drain in two layers of mineral wool between the warmth of the attic

Heating the mineral wool overlay is best done using rollers, since the joints between the plates are not strong, but they reduce the effectiveness of the thermal insulation. If you want to fold it, you need to close the beams close or direct it without disturbing the interference.

Installation of mineral wool is very simple, which is why this insulation material is most often chosen when people want to insulate their attic themselves without the help of experts.

While working, do not forget to use personal protective equipment: thick rubber gloves, goggles and clothing that cover the entire body. For people who are prone to allergies, this kit should be supplemented with a respirator.

• Fire safety;
• Environmental compatibility;
• Ease of use;
• Relatively low price.

flaws:

• Possibility of forming fillings, good wrinkles;
• Hygroscopicity.

Insulating the bottom of the attic with foam.

However, all its advantages are offset by one drawback - this material is a fire hazard.

Already at a temperature of 80 ° C; polystyrene melts, releasing a huge amount of harmful substances at a temperature of 210 ° C; there is fire. Therefore, insulating the attic over polystyrene foam carriers is not a good idea. However, it can be used in non-combustible materials, for example, when they are stacked on concrete block by casting in the form of concrete.

flaws:

• nausea;
• Highly flammable;
• It is already deformed at 60°C;
• This is an excellent mosquito refuge.

Heated attic with expanded polystyrene foam

However, insulating wood floor slabs is not recommended.

Despite the fact that open ignition of this thermal insulation material occurs at a fairly high temperature, fire is still dangerous. Firstly, extruded polystyrene supports combustion, and secondly, it releases very corrosive and toxic substances by heating at very high temperatures. low temperatures, in most cases the cause of death is fire. Therefore, penoplex is far from a better option than insulating the attic of a house, although it is reinforced.

• High thermal insulation properties;
• Resistance to humidity;
• Resistant to decay;
• High density;
• A light weight.

flaws:

• When heated above 80°C; it begins to release toxic substances;
• Fire;
• Deforms when heated.

Heating the attic of a house using polyurethane foam

flaws:

Heated ceiling of a cool attic with sawdust

Previously, due to the lack of other materials, cold roof insulation with sawdust was widespread.

Now this method of thermal insulation is used by those who love environmental compatibility. In this case, despite popular belief, designing an attic using such a heater is not cheap at all. Sawdust is not placed “dry”, but in a special solution, the production of which requires money and a lot of time.

The structure of a sawdust solution for insulating a cold attic is as follows:

• 10 tablespoons (wood is necessary, which is formed when cutting and processing wood, furniture dust is too small for this purpose);
• 1 bucket of hydrated lime (thrusters);
• 1 bucket of cement;
• 5-10 pieces of water with antiseptic.

  for example, with boric acid, soap or copper dome (gradually poured into the feeding vessel, the final amount depends on the size of the sawdust).

The resulting mixture is placed on a substrate between the beams and wrapped. The thickness of the layer of such insulation for the attic ceiling should be at least 300 mm, but it is better to do more, because the thermal insulation properties of sawdust can vary greatly. Moving bridges are installed on top of such a heater covering the attic, which can be used as leaves particle board or thick plywood.

• Comparatively cheap;
• Environmental compatibility;
• Good thermal insulation properties.

flaws:

• Intensive independent production;
• The thickness of the attic is large;
• Complex installation;
• Differences in thermal insulation properties depending on the composition.

Thermal insulation of the lower part of the attic with expanded clay

Another relatively cheap material that can be used to insulate an attic in a private home is expanded clay.

It is made of baked clay and is one of the most environmentally friendly building materials. In addition, expanded clay has good thermal insulation properties, is stable, durable and inert to acids and alkalis.

With expanded clay you can insulate reinforced concrete and wood attic floors. But in the latter case, the calculation of the load-carrying capacity of the carriers must be carefully weighed, since expanded clay insulation weighs much more than modern insulations.

Concrete floor slabs simply endure very high loads, so they can be used without additional calculations.

A layer of expanded clay insulation covered between attic roof beams

If the wooden attic of the house is insulated, the bar is first made at the top of the beams, and only then the insulation is poured out.

Spread the clay in a layer of 250-300 mm and level it thoroughly. It is then covered with floor boards.

If you are insulating concrete attic floors, waterproofing the coating with filler or coating materials, then the expanded clay is mixed with cement and filled with a layer of 350-400 mm.

• Environmentally friendly material;
• Good thermal insulation properties;
• Fire;
• Resistant to acids and alkalis;
• Not subject to rotting;
• constant;
• Low cost.

On the materials pages: http://oprofnastile.ru

During the cold season, 25 to 40% of the heat is lost in a heated room. To avoid heating up the streets in the future, initial stage construction, it is necessary to decide how to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof.

An insulated ceiling performs three important functions:

1. By its composition, the insulating material is a sound insulator.

   He's a good supporter.

2. During the cold season, insulating material keeps the room warm.
3. In summer, the heater creates a thermal insulating effect without entering hot air.

With development construction technologies, new materials, tips and methods for making ceiling insulation in the house. To choose the right material Based on your budget and stacking complexity, consider several options.

If you choose an insulating material, you should consider some properties:

1. Thermal conductivity.
2. Water resistance.
3. Material security.
4. Durability of operations.

The following materials are widely used for ceiling and attic insulation:

• mineral wool;
• sawdust;
• expanded polystyrene;
• polyurethane foam.

Previously, straw or hay were used instead of these heaters.

Some craftsmen still use them, but insulation requires compliance with installation technology.

Ceiling insulation is lightweight and does not overload the roof structure.

Mineral wool insulation material

Mineral wool is the leader among all materials that insulate the ceiling.

It is used for heating inside the house and attic, according to the data, which is excellent for this.

Glass wool

This insulation is made from molten high temperature glass with fine fiber extraction.

In addition, continuous foil and roll-to-roll are formed. Glass wool has weak thermal conductivity properties, such as basalt insulation, but there is much more to casting. It is commonly used for attic insulation.

To install glass wool we only need the interior of the attic, so it is not advisable in rooms.

Polyurethane foam

This material is used by spraying, special equipment is needed for polyurethane foam insulation.

If necessary, it can be dispersed in several layers, which is why it is often used in northern regions. When sprayed, polyurethane foam fills the entire space and forms a tight, sealed lid without stitches.

After choosing the insulation material, you can continue with the main task - how to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof.

Also read: How to insulate an attic floor

Ceiling insulation from the inside

You can do this in two ways:

1. Gluing on ceiling tiles for thermal insulation and fixation with special terminals.
2. Making a special container made of wood or metal on the ceiling and laying insulating material between the guides.

If you want to warm up either option, you need to do some preparatory work, otherwise the insulation will not give the desired effect.

Ceiling preparation

The installation of the ceiling depends on the material from which it is made.

A wooden ceiling requires the following parts:

1. The entire surface of the ceiling must be cleaned with an antiseptic and fire-resistant material.

   Coat the wood surface with antiseptic to slowly treat each slot.

2. Then you need to fix any cracks. If there are large cracks between the plates, they can be sealed with whales, but it is better to use foam, and when the foam has hardened, the excess part is cut with a knife.

Concrete ceiling

The concrete ceiling is prepared in different ways:

1. If the ceiling has decorative elements, they should be removed and any plaster that can be cleaned should be cleaned.
2. Cracks on the surface must be widened, thoroughly cleaned of dust and prepared.
3. Small gaps can be closed with liquid cement mortar or sealant.

   We heat the attic above the wooden beams

   Large cracks should be sealed with foam. After hardening, the foam is leveled according to the level of the entire surface.

4. The ceiling is covered with an interior base designed for use on concrete surfaces.

   After complete drying, installation work on insulation should begin.

Installation with glue

To heat using this method, all materials will be made in the form of plates of different sizes. This can be basalt wool, expanded polystyrene, expanded polystyrene.

Cement-based mortar and prefabricated foam should be used as glue.

The glue on which the cement is based is prepared according to the recipe on the package.

Pay attention to the specific drying time as it affects the amount of solution required for mixing.

If you choose precast foam, apply it to the heater with a special gun.
The panel with the adhesive attached should be pressed against the ceiling and held for about a minute.

After installing several heater squares, there are holes in the ceiling designed to attach a mushroom to which a spacer nail is later launched. If there are gaps between the plates, they must be carefully filled with foam. The basalt wool heater is installed in a similar way.

This method is carried out under suspended ceilings.

Installation between rails

Thermal insulation with a container is used if plasterboard or lining will be covered by the ceiling.

First you should place marks on the ceiling to give up the lines where the container pieces will be attached.

They should be located at a distance corresponding to the width of the insulation.
The wooden frame is attached to the ceiling with screws. The metal profile is fixed with special springs, which allow the hopper to lower to the required distance from the ceiling.

Next you need to install the insulation. The wooden rods are built by the enemy.

The mineral wool itself is well distributed and has, and it can also be grabbed by shelves with pendants.

The foam is installed very carefully as it can interrupt the panel with a good load.

If after installing the heater there are gaps between the box and the foam, they should be filled with pre-assembled foam.

After installing the insulation, the ceiling should be covered with vapor barrier film. It is attached to a wooden frame with staples or staplers and to a metal profile using double-sided construction tape.

The stretched vapor barrier film is finally covered with sheets of drywall or backing.

The hybrid plates are attached to guide screws with an inclination of 150 mm. The seams between them are reinforced with mesh and applied to the coating layer. After drying the joints, you can fill the entire surface of the ceiling and then finish the finishing work.

Properly performed insulation of the attic floor of a house ensures that heat is retained inside the premises, rather than being wasted on heating a cold attic. Warm air, rising, will freely pass through the ceiling, which means that all expenses for heating the room will ultimately be spent on heating the street.

This means that it is necessary to insulate the attic floor using suitable thermal insulation agents at the stage of building construction or before finishing the interior.

The technological process of thermal insulation is determined by the design features of the building: wooden beam or solid reinforced concrete structure.

However, in any case, thermal insulation products for insulating the attic must:

• have minimal thermal conductivity;
• have moisture-repellent properties;
• be fireproof;
• resist rotting or mold formation;
• have little weight.

Based on this, today the following is usually used as insulation for attic floors using wooden beams:

• Mineral wool. Inexpensive, lightweight, durable material that is easy to work with. Typically, mineral wool is laid in the space between the beams in two layers with the expectation that the thickness of the material will be at least 20 cm. In this case, the joints are tightly adjusted, but not jammed. If you plan to further develop a living space or attic, then insulating the ceiling of a cold attic necessarily includes the installation of sheathing.

• Expanded clay. It is a loose mass of baked clay. Suitable for all types of floors, however, it is more often used for insulating concrete slabs. However, the use of this material can only be limited by the load-bearing capacity of the building structure. The optimal layer of expanded clay when constructing a thermal insulation layer is at least 16 cm; this must be taken into account when calculating the material.

• Styrofoam. The cheapest option used for insulating the attic floor reinforced concrete slab or wooden beams. Its advantages include: ease of installation, light weight, excellent thermal insulation and low cost, however, polystyrene foam is not resistant to the formation of fungal mold and is susceptible to high temperatures.

• Sawdust. Inexpensive natural insulation, often used in the attics of private houses. It has excellent heat and sound insulation qualities. However, such material attracts rodents and insects, is easily flammable, is susceptible to mold, absorbs moisture, and cakes.

Preparation of materials and tools

Before you insulate attic floor in a private house, it is necessary to prepare lumber, hydro- and vapor barrier, standard carpentry and power tools. Thus, to carry out the technical part of the work, you will need:

From hand tools:

• a pair of hammers (heavy and light);
• rip and cross saw;
• plane;
• set of chisels;
• roulette;
• building level.

From power tools:

• drill;
• screwdriver with replaceable attachments;
• Instead of a crosscut saw, sometimes it is much more convenient to use an electric cutting machine.

For fixation roll insulation It is convenient to use a special construction stapler with staples.

A film made of foamed polyethylene or a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane is suitable for creation. To seal the joints tightly, you will need foil tape.

From lumber you will need bars with a cross-section of 62x62 mm, as well as boards with a thickness of at least 25 mm. For finishing On the floor, each owner uses finishing materials at his own request.

Important! Before carrying out thermal insulation work, all wooden components of the structure must be treated with special antiseptics and, if possible, antipyretics. This will avoid the occurrence of putrefactive or moldy processes in the wood, and will also provide fire-fighting properties.

Filing the rough ceiling

When constructing wooden houses, the entire load from the roof falls on the wooden load-bearing beams from timber or logs, with cross section not less than 120x120 mm. Most often they are mounted on the load-bearing walls of the house structure, parallel to its narrow side, and they are load-bearing elements of the upper floor ceiling and attic floor.

The insulation of the attic floor using wooden beams is called hemmed, since both the rough and finished ceilings are hemmed from below to the load-bearing elements.

Before you start insulating the attic, you need to make a rough ceiling. The main materials used here are usually edged boards and plywood. In this case, the boards are fastened tightly using galvanized self-tapping screws.

Vapor barrier

For any type of floor, vapor barrier is an integral step. A thin and durable film is attached to the ceiling itself, since this helps prevent vapor condensation in the heat insulator when heat enters from the heated room.

can be installed under any finishing materials. They have additional functions such as protection from wind, water, and dust. Therefore, the space under the roof will be reliably protected not only from the harmful effects of condensation, but also from atmospheric influences with maximum effect.

To install a vapor barrier, it is enough to evenly distribute the film over the surface of the attic floor and secure it with metal staples, while the joints should be taped with foil tape.

Installation of thermal insulation

After installation draft ceiling and vapor barrier layer, the ceiling beams will be located on the attic side, so the thermal insulation will be between them. Based on which insulation is chosen, the installation process itself may differ slightly.

So, for example, to insulate the ceiling of a cold attic with mineral wool, sheet or roll material laid on the vapor barrier layer without any creasing or compression. Another layer of film is laid on top of the insulation.

This entire pie is attached using a furniture stapler to beams and walls throughout the entire area of ​​the room. The joints of the vapor barrier membrane must be sealed with metallized tape.

When installing polystyrene foam, a waterproof film is unnecessary, since polymer insulation itself does not allow air and moisture to pass through. Typically, foam plastic is mounted on the surface of the rough ceiling in two layers.

When using expanded clay as insulation, a two-layer vapor barrier is used. However, in this case it is necessary to fill in a mixed-fraction granular mass of baked clay. This will avoid the formation of voids in the thermal insulation layer and improve heat and sound insulation.

The technological process of insulation with sawdust is similar to the use of expanded clay. However, here very often wood chips are mixed with other binding components: clay, cement or gypsum. In any case, the sawdust must first be dried, treated with antiseptics and, if possible, antipyretics.

Note! Any mineral insulating material is capable of transmitting heat and moisture. To improve the heat-saving properties and extend the service life of the insulation, it is necessary to use special vapor-proof films.

Waterproofing

When the interfloor pie is ready, it is necessary to waterproof the cold attic space. It will help prevent the appearance of leaks and condensation. Most often, the role of waterproofing is performed by foiled polyethylene foam.

It is attached using a stapler with the metalized side facing out, leaving ends 15-20 cm long wrapped on the walls. The joints, as in other cases, are sealed with foil tape.

A sheathing is installed over the entire surface of the resulting structure, which will subsequently serve as the basis for the final coating of the ceiling. Moreover, this is necessary to create an air-thermal floor cushion.

Installing a floor in the attic

In most cases, attics in private homes are used as utility rooms for storing unnecessary rubbish. But it is also often used to make a living room or attic. In any case, this room must have a reliable, safe floor.

The type of thermal insulation material used in a particular case will help you choose the right material for creating a subfloor in the attic. So, for example, if the attic floor is insulated with mineral wool over wooden beams or polystyrene foam is used as insulation, then the floor covering must be rigid. Thick plywood, edged boards or OSB sheets are most often used as rough material.

Expanded clay insulation is covered with thick plywood. Cement screed is sometimes used as a rough floor covering when arranging a living space in the attic, if the load-bearing characteristics of the building allow.

Sawdust-cement or sawdust-clay insulation after drying becomes rigid and resembles a reinforced concrete rough coating, so finishing can be done directly on it.

Conclusion

There are several variations on the theme of how to insulate an attic floor. Which one to apply to a particular room depends on technical features structure and preferences of the owners. The main thing here is the correct observance of all technological stages of laying thermal insulation.

To maintain normal temperature and humidity conditions in a private home, it is necessary to provide reliable protection against the penetration of cold air. It is necessary not only to insulate the walls and ceiling of the basement, but also to insulate the attic floor with effective materials on wooden beams.

Types of attic floors

The following types of horizontal structures can be used in a private house:

• prefabricated reinforced concrete;
• monolithic reinforced concrete;
• on metal beams;
• on wooden beams.

For construction wooden house The most rational solution would be to cover it with wooden beams. Wood has higher thermal insulation characteristics than concrete, but the thermal insulation is still insufficient.

Insulation technology

How to insulate the attic floor so that there are no problems in the future? In general, the technology for do-it-yourself thermal insulation is almost the same. But the methods of its installation depend on specific situation.

Insulation of the attic floor is carried out in the presence of a cold attic. Thermal protection of the structure is carried out from above, since in this case the thermal insulation is most competent. But in some cases, another scheme is used - protection from warm air.

The answers to the question why insulation from the ceiling side of the upper floor is undesirable can be the following disadvantages of thermal protection from below:

• the insulation only protects the ceiling, and the ceiling remains cold;
• doing work from below with your own hands is quite labor-intensive;
• the point of condensation moves inside the floor pie, which can lead to rotting of the structure along the wooden beams.

It is also important to observe correct order all related materials.

When insulating, you need to remember one rule: the vapor barrier is always located on the warm air side, and the waterproofing on the cold air side.

Incorrect placement can lead to the following problems:

• insulation getting wet;
• condensation on the ceiling surface;
• rotting of the ceiling of a cold attic along wooden beams.

Whether vapor barrier and waterproofing is needed depends on the chosen insulation.

Choice of insulation

The methods of insulating the ceiling of the upper floor of the ceiling along beams in a private house are very diverse. When doing the work yourself, the insulation is placed between the joists and provides reliable thermal insulation and noise protection. There are many options for insulating a structure, the most common of which are:

• insulation with mineral wool;
• laying expanded polystyrene (foam plastic or penoplex) on wooden beams;
• filling with expanded clay;
• insulation with sawdust;
• filling the ceiling space with foam.

Each of these options has its own characteristics and advantages.

Insulation with mineral wool between joists

Mineral wool insulation

The material is available in two versions: plates and rolls. Insulating the attic floor with mineral wool has the following advantages:

Styrofoam

Foam plastic has become one of the most common materials for thermal insulation. It has earned its place in the top three thanks to its very attractive price. Using this insulation in an individual home provides the following advantages:

• high degree of protection;
• resistance to rotting and mold and mildew;
• low degree of water absorption;
• ease of installation and no need for complex tools and protective equipment;
• the light weight of the material prevents excessive load on the structure and allows for insulation from below.

Extruded polystyrene foam

More often this material is called a shorter word - penoplex. Being the closest relative of foam plastic, penoplex is devoid of most of its disadvantages. In the process of improving performance characteristics, the cost has increased. The material is produced fireproof, it has sufficient strength for use as a base for flooring and is light in weight for use in ceiling construction.

Do-it-yourself installation is quite simple. This issue is discussed in detail in the article. The text discusses options for using both penoplex and polystyrene foam for different types of floor construction.

For people who decide to build their own wooden house, the naturalness of the materials is usually important. Here penoplex, like foam plastic, loses to other types of insulation due to its artificial origin.

Expanded clay or sawdust

Insulation of wooden floors

If you decide to use completely natural materials in the house, these two types of insulation will become indispensable assistants. They do not have high heat-protective characteristics, like previous types, but provide reliable protection from the cold with a sufficient layer thickness. Sawdust can be obtained almost free of charge; expanded clay is also an inexpensive material.

Insulation of the attic floor can be carried out by non-professionals and does not require special skills. The application is limited by the physical characteristics of these materials: they cannot be used for thermal protection from below.

Foam for thermal protection

Polyurethane foam insulation is sufficient new material in construction. At self-construction buildings, this method can provide high speed work and reliable protection from the cold. You can read about insulating a building, including attic floors, with foam in the article.

This provides big choice materials for insulation and significantly save on construction.

The insulation of a wooden floor is carried out between the joists, and therefore does not require heat-protective material high strength: the main load from people, furniture and equipment will be taken by boards or timber.

A large percentage of heat losses occur precisely through the ceiling of the upper floor, which is why it is so important to choose the right insulation and follow the installation technology.

Are you insulating your house for winter and don’t know how to insulate the attic floor using wooden load-bearing beams? Having gained experience in this matter, I will definitely convey technical points thermal insulation, and I will also describe step by step the procedure for carrying out the work.

Why insulate an attic?

We must not forget that a significant part of heat loss occurs through the roof. Therefore, when constructing buildings with cold attics, it is very important to pay attention to proper thermal insulation of the ceiling between the heated room and the attic.

I'll try below accessible language explain how attic insulation affects the internal microclimate and overall heat loss in the house:

1. Purpose of the attic. Any unused attic under a sloping roof is, in fact, a buffer technical floor between the street and the living space. Its purpose is to smooth out significant changes in air temperature inside the house and outside;
2. Temperature conditions. At any time of the year, during the day the air temperature inside the attic will be several degrees higher than outside. Thus, in winter there will almost always be negative temperatures in the attic, and on sunny summer days there will be intense heat;
3. Heat losses in winter. When the temperature of any substance increases, its density always decreases. Therefore, in heated rooms, heated air from household heating devices, always rises up to the ceiling. If the ceiling has insufficient thermal insulation, then during the cold season, all the heat from the room will go outside through the attic;

1. Excess heat in summer. On hot summer days this process will occur in reverse. The air in the attic will become very hot from the hot roof in the sun, and then transfer its heat through the uninsulated ceiling into the apartment.
2. Reverse air circulation. After touching an uninsulated ceiling, the heated air quickly cools down, and due to the increase in density, it sharply sinks down. Indoors, this leads to excessive reverse air circulation and the constant formation of drafts, which have an adverse effect on the health of residents;
3. High humidity. Upon contact of heated humid air with a cold, uninsulated ceiling, small drops of condensation may form under the ceiling. This will lead to an increase in air humidity in the house, and will also contribute to the appearance and development of mold on the walls and ceiling;

1. Economic factor. Confirmed heat loss through an uninsulated roof is at least 20-30%. It means that proper insulation attic floors on wooden beams will save up to 30% of fuel during each heating season. Air conditioning in summer will also require lower costs;
2. Damage from a “warm” attic. Among other things, the penetration of warm air into an uninhabited attic, from time to time, can lead to unpleasant consequences:

• As warm and cold air mixes, condensation will begin to form in the attic. Drops of water will settle on all surfaces, which will lead to rotting and destruction of the wooden supporting structures of the roof;
• From the warmth of the attic, the snow masses on the roof slopes will gradually begin to melt. Thawed water will freeze as it flows down. This can lead to the formation of large icicles along the edges of the roof, as well as freezing of rain gutters and downspouts.

All the factors described are characteristic not only of residential buildings. They should be taken into account when designing and constructing any outbuildings on the site in which the heating system will be used (for example, a garage, bathhouse, barn, etc.).

Stage 1: Selecting insulation

When choosing materials for ceiling insulation, you should be guided by several criteria. In addition to low thermal conductivity, attic insulation must have the following qualities:

• Moisture resistance and mechanical strength. The material should not be deformed or destroyed under the influence of mechanical load, and should not change its properties in the event of direct contact with water;
• Heat resistance. The insulation must be absolutely non-flammable and should not be destroyed under the influence of high or low temperatures;

• Light weight. In order not to create additional load on the load-bearing structures of the building, the thermal insulation of the attic floor should be quite light, so you need to choose insulation with a low specific gravity;
• Vapor permeability. To ensure normal temperature and humidity conditions in residential premises, all finishing and building materials must freely allow air and water vapor to pass through;
• Environmental Safety. Insulation for residential buildings must be hypoallergenic and chemically neutral. It should not contain any harmful substances volatile compounds or toxic substances;
• Lack of organic matter. I recommend using exclusively mineral or polymer based materials. They do not contain organic substances, therefore they are not susceptible to mold, and are not suitable for food for small rodents and pests.

Taking into account all these factors, several types of thermal insulation materials can be used to insulate attic floors:

1. Mineral wool. Produced in the form of rolls or rigid mats, from intertwined frozen fibers of molten sedimentary rocks. Mineral basalt wool is characterized by all of the above qualities, so it can be considered the most suitable material. Below I will give some recommendations for its use:

• Basalt wool itself is very soft. To prevent it from being pressed or dented while walking, plank flooring should be laid on top of it in the attic;
• When choosing insulation, I advise you to give preference to rigid slabs that are covered on one side with aluminum foil;
• They need to be mounted with aluminum foil inside the room. It simultaneously reflects heat and acts as a vapor barrier layer.

1. Glass wool. It has a similar manufacturing technology, only molten glass is used as the raw material for its production. I do not recommend using this material for insulating residential buildings for the following reasons:

• Glass fibers are more fragile, so they can break under load;
• The price of glass wool is much lower, but after creasing or getting wet, it partially loses its heat-insulating properties;
• Small particles of glass penetrate deeply into a person's skin and cause severe irritation.

1. Expanded clay. This bulk insulation is produced in the form of small round pellets of light brown or red color. Expanded clay balls are formed as a result of sintering special varieties of red clay under high temperature conditions.

Expanded clay has the following characteristic qualities:

• The internal structure of the material has many closed pores, so it has low thermal conductivity;
• Each pellet is covered on the outside with a dense glassy layer of baked clay, so moisture practically does not penetrate inside it;
• Small crumbly expanded clay pellets freely fill the entire volume, so they are convenient to use for insulating hidden cavities and hard-to-reach places in building structures;
• Thanks to its mineral base, this material does not burn at all, does not emit harmful substances, is not susceptible to mold, and is not suitable for rodent food.

1. Styrofoam. This polymer thermal insulation material is made by hot molding from small round granules of polystyrene foam. It is usually produced in sheets measuring 1000x1000 mm, which can be from 10 to 150 mm thick. The following features are characteristic of polystyrene foam:

• Of all existing species insulation, it has the lowest thermal conductivity;
• The foam contains no organic substances, so it is absolutely not afraid of water, does not rot and does not contribute to the formation mold fungus;
• By itself, polystyrene foam does not burn and does not support combustion, however, when exposed to high temperatures, it can emit toxic gases and acrid thick smoke;
• Due to the polymer base and closed porous structure, foam sheets do not allow air and water vapor to pass through. For this reason, it is not very good to use for insulating living rooms and rooms with high humidity air.

1. Extruded polystyrene foam Abbreviated as EPPS. It has the same composition as polystyrene foam, but is made by hot extrusion from a molten mass of polystyrene foam. The technical characteristics of these two materials are also very similar, however, EPS still has some differences:

• Expanded polystyrene has a porous, uniform structure and a higher specific density;
• Due to this, it has higher thermal conductivity, but at the same time is more durable, and therefore is able to bear higher weight loads;
• For this reason, I recommend using it for insulating unheated attics that will be used for storing seasonal items or household equipment.

1. Foil polyethylene foam. It is also called “Penofol” in another way. This roll material consists of thick polyethylene foam film, which is covered on one or both sides with a thin layer of aluminum foil. I recommend using it in combination with other types of insulation, because by itself it has specific properties:

• The porous structure of polyethylene foam provides a low heat transfer coefficient, so it functions as an additional insulation;
• Polyethylene film does not allow air, drops of moisture and water vapor to pass through at all, so Penofol can be used as waterproofing;
• Mirror aluminum foil reflects infrared heat waves well. In other words, it does not allow radiant heat to pass through itself, and returns it back to the room.

1. Wood sawdust. This one is cheap and available material, is still often used to insulate ceilings in bathhouses, heated barns or small country houses. It is applied to the wooden floor from the attic side, in the form of a homogeneous thick mixture of sawdust and liquid clay mortar. Despite the seeming primitiveness of this method, it has its advantages and disadvantages:

• Sawdust or small shavings can be bought inexpensively, or even taken for free, at almost any large sawmill;
• There can be no problems with clay either, so such insulation is easy to prepare with your own hands in the required quantity at any time;
• The mixture of sawdust and clay has a low specific gravity, and after hardening it becomes quite hard. Therefore, it does not place a significant load on the load-bearing beams, and allows you to walk on it with your feet;
• Due to the mineral components, such a coating is permeable to air and steam, however, due to sawdust, mold may form on it, or mice may chew on it.

All mineral-based thermal insulation materials, to one degree or another, are capable of allowing water vapor and air to pass through. To protect such insulation from the formation of condensation or moisture penetration from the outside, they must be installed using a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane.

Stage 2: Preparation of materials and tools

In addition to insulation, for the work you will need lumber, waterproofing, as well as the usual set of carpentry and carpentry tools:

1. Two hammers: one medium, weighing 200-300 grams, and one heavy, weighing 800-1200 grams;
2. Longitudinal and transverse hacksaw for wood. Instead of a cross saw, it is more convenient to use an electric cutting machine;
3. A carpenter's plane, a large wooden mallet and a set of chisels;
4. As for electric tools, you need to have an ordinary household drill, and it is advisable to have a cordless screwdriver with a set of replaceable attachments;

1. For fastening rolled materials (waterproofing, vapor barrier), I recommend using construction or furniture stapler with a set of metal brackets;
2. You will also need a straight metal ruler, a tape measure 3-5 meters long, a building level and a simple rope plumb line;
3. To work near the ceiling, it is most convenient to use a folding stepladder. If it is not there, you can adapt a high strong table or homemade goats from scraps of boards;
4. From lumber you will need wooden blocks with a cross section of 62x62 mm, and planed edged boards thickness 25-30 mm;

1. As a waterproofing layer, you can use a film of foamed polyethylene and a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane;
2. To seal the joints of the panels, you will need metallized aluminum tape, which is usually used in ventilation systems;
3. Each homeowner chooses materials for finishing the ceiling at his own discretion. This could be lining board, drywall, laminated OSB or plywood, or other finishing materials;

If you plan to use mineral or glass wool for insulation, then I recommend purchasing a special protective suit that is designed to work with these materials. Otherwise, severe irritation may occur on exposed areas of the skin from small glass fibers.

Stage 3: Filing the rough ceiling

When building an attic floor or erecting a sloping roof, you can do without expensive and heavy concrete floor slabs. Instead, the entire load from the roof is carried by wooden load-bearing beams made of logs or timber, with a cross-section of at least 120x120 mm. They are usually laid on top of two main exterior walls, perpendicular to the long side of the house.

Such beams serve load-bearing structure for the ceiling of the top floor, and for the floor of the attic. The same beams will be used for installing insulation between residential building and the attic. This type of ceiling is called hemmed, because both the rough and the finished ceiling are hemmed from below to the load-bearing beams.

Before insulating the attic floor, you need to mount the rough ceiling:

Illustration	Description of work
	Installation of a rough ceiling. To hem the rough ceiling, you should use dry edged boards 25 mm thick, or plywood sheets 10 mm thick or more.
	Hemming boards. They must be secured to the lower plane of the supporting beams and beams around the perimeter of the room. Hemming boards must be fastened without gaps or cracks, close to each other. For fastening, use galvanized self-tapping screws 5-6 mm.
	Waterproofing. When the entire rough ceiling is hemmed to the load-bearing beams, panels of foiled polyethylene foam need to be secured to it from below. This can be done using a stapler. "Penofol" will perform the functions of heat and waterproofing. It should always be placed with a foil layer towards the warm room.
	Sealing joints. To prevent moist air from the room from entering the insulation, the ends of the polyethylene film must be wrapped on the walls by 150-200 mm. The joints between the panels must be glued with metallized tape on an aluminum base.
	Attaching the sheathing. From below, across the entire area of ​​the rough ceiling, nail a counter lath made of wooden slats 15-22 mm thick. It is needed in order to provide a ventilation air gap between Penofol and the finished ceiling. The distance between the slats should be about 400-600 mm. In the future, a finishing ceiling covering will be attached to them from below.

Before starting work, everything wooden elements structures must be treated with antiseptic and fire-retardant impregnations. Antiseptics are needed to protect wood from rotting and mold development. Fire retardants give dry wood fire retardant properties.

Stage 4: Installation of thermal insulation

After filing the rough ceiling, the transverse load-bearing beams will be on the side of the attic. Insulation will be laid in between them.

Depending on the thermal insulation materials used, further installation technology may have some differences. Therefore, below I will briefly discuss the use of the most common types of insulation.

1. Laying mineral wool. Mineral insulation materials, when wet, partially lose their properties. To prevent condensation from forming in the mineral wool, the entire thermal insulation layer of the cold attic floor must be permeable to air and water vapor:

Illustration	Description of work
	Vapor barrier. First, you need to lay a vapor-permeable waterproofing membrane on top of the rough ceiling. Its peculiarity is that it freely allows water vapor molecules to pass through, but does not allow bound liquid water molecules to pass through. The membrane panels must overlap each other by at least 150 mm;
	Installation of insulation. Place sheets or rolls of mineral wool in the spaces between the wooden beams. If it is very soft, then it does not need to be squeezed or squeezed much. Lay another layer of vapor-permeable membrane on top of the mineral wool. To prevent it from moving over time, it must be stapled to the beams and walls, throughout the entire area and along the perimeter of the attic.

1. Installation of foam plastic. Polymer-based insulation does not have breathable properties, so it does not allow air and moisture to pass through. There is no point in using a waterproof membrane in this case:

Illustration	Description of work
	Laying foam. Foam or extruded polystyrene panels can be laid between the cross beams, directly on top of the sub-ceiling boards. I advise laying them in two layers, so that the joints of the sheets are located in different places and do not intersect with each other.
	Polyurethane foam. To prevent the insulation sheets from moving to the sides, they can be glued to the sub-ceiling using a special glue for polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. Thus, it is necessary to fill the entire area of ​​the attic floor with insulation. If there are gaps and cracks between the sheets of foam plastic, then they must also be blown out from a balloon with polyurethane foam.

1. Clay with wood shavings. Insulating the attic floor with a sawdust-clay mixture does not require any additional materials, and is also quite simple:

Illustration	Description of work
	Preparation of the solution. To make the sawdust-clay solution plastic, the clay must be soaked in water 2-3 days before starting work. To prepare the solution, you need to take 3-4 volume parts of sawdust, and 1-2 parts of dry red clay without large solid particles and foreign impurities. Mix the soaked clay with water until a liquid, flowing solution is obtained; Add sawdust to the resulting mixture and mix thoroughly until smooth. To protect against mold formation, you can add to the prepared solution a small amount of copper sulfate.
	Laying sawdust-clay mixture. Lightly moisten the supporting beams and boards of the rough ceiling with liquid clay milk. After this, fill all the gaps between the beams with sawdust-clay mortar and leave for several days until completely dry.

1. Expanded clay backfill. I want to say right away that expanded clay does not have very good heat-insulating properties, therefore, in individual construction, such insulation of floors is rarely used. At the same time, it is considered inexpensive, unpretentious and the easiest to install:

Illustration	Description of work
	Preparatory work. Expanded clay pellets do not absorb moisture, and therefore are not afraid of water ingress or condensation. Therefore, they can be used both with and without a waterproof membrane. To prevent condensation from seeping through the ceiling into the house, I still recommend laying a waterproofing membrane under the pellets;
	Filling of pellets. Expanded clay pellets should be poured on top of the rough ceiling boards and evenly distributed in a thick layer over the entire area of ​​the attic. No covering material is required on top of expanded clay.

To prevent expanded clay pellets from bunching up and spreading throughout the attic, a retaining plastic geogrid is used. It needs to be stretched in the spaces between the load-bearing beams, and then expanded clay should be poured into its cells.

Stage 5: Arrangement of the floor in the attic

Many residents use the cold attic in their private home as a storage room for storing long items, seasonal items and all sorts of unnecessary rubbish. In order for a person to safely walk on the insulated floor, a durable subfloor must be installed in the attic.

The choice of material for installing the floor in the attic will depend on the type of insulation used:

Illustration	Features of application
	Mineral wool and polystyrene foam. These materials themselves are very soft. To prevent them from being destroyed or wrinkled while walking, the top floor covering must be sufficiently rigid. In such cases, OSB or plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 18 mm should be laid on the load-bearing beams. You can also use unplaned edged boards with a thickness of 25 or 30 mm.
	Extruded polystyrene. It has higher rigidity, so it can withstand significant loads. To prevent it from being pressed when walking, it is enough to put a light flooring of thin boards or plywood 5-9 mm thick on top of it.
	Under the weight of a person, they will crawl in different directions. To prevent this from happening, you need to lay 10 mm thick plywood sheets or light wooden ladders made of boards on top of the beam floor.
	Sawdust-clay insulation. After the solution hardens, it becomes hard like cement. A person can move freely on its surface, even without installing additional flooring.

When installing rough flooring in the attic, you should always leave gaps 15-20 mm wide between boards or sheets of plywood. This is done so that moisture and condensation can freely evaporate from the insulation.

Conclusion

Using this operating algorithm, you can special labor insulate the ceiling in the attic own home. More visual information on each method of insulation can be viewed in the attached video in this article, and I suggest leaving all your comments and questions in the comment form.

To understand why it is necessary to insulate the ceiling of a cold attic, let’s clarify a little why an attic is needed in a private house and what its purpose is. Our ancestors built houses that could last for more than 100 years, while it was warm inside, and wooden structure the roof always remained dry.

Previously, gable roofs were mainly built with slight slope stingrays This was done so that snow could remain on the roof in winter. Thus, snow was used as a natural insulation. One or two windows were made in the attic and kept closed in winter so that the trapped air acted as a heat insulator. In the summer, a slightly different situation occurred. Attic windows they were opened at night so that the air cooled, and during the day, in hot weather, they were closed so that the air did not heat up too much, thus regulating its temperature.

When snow fell in winter, it fell as a continuous cover on the roof, simultaneously becoming a natural insulation. Even in severe frosts, the temperature in the attic did not drop below zero. Thus, the air in the attic and the insulation of the ceiling made it possible to maintain the temperature in the house at +20-25 °C. The roof slopes were not insulated to prevent the snow lying on the roof from melting. The rafter system remained open, allowing it to be inspected and repaired if necessary. Therefore, in a cold attic, only the ceiling is insulated.

If the roof slopes are insulated, then the attic becomes a heated room, i.e. an attic, which has a completely different functional purpose.

Now it remains to find out how to insulate the attic floor in a private house, and what materials are used for thermal insulation.

Materials for insulating attic floors

There is a wide range of insulation materials on the market. To make a choice, it is necessary to take into account the conditions in which the thermal insulation material will be used:

1. The material must retain its properties when temperature conditions from -30 to +30 °C. It should not freeze in severe frosts and should not emit harmful substances in hot weather.
2. It is necessary to choose fire-resistant insulation if there is electrical wiring in the attic.
3. It is better to choose a moisture-resistant material so that when wet it does not lose its thermal insulation properties.
4. The insulation should not quickly cake in order to fulfill its purpose for as long as possible.

Before deciding on the type of material for insulating the floor of a cold attic in a private house, you need to consider what material the ceiling is made of. If the attic floor is made of wooden beams, then you can use slab, roll and bulk insulation. In the case where the attic floor is made of concrete slabs, they resort to the use of heavy bulk or dense slab heat insulators. Their use makes it possible to make a cement screed on the floor.

Materials produced in slab and mat formats:

• mineral wool (mineral wool) in mats;
• Styrofoam;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• seaweed;
• straw.

• mineral wool;
• glass wool;
• stone wool;
• seaweed ladders;

Bulk materials for attic floor insulation:

• expanded clay;
• ecowool;
• reed;
• sawdust;
• straw;
• slag;
• buckwheat tyrsa;
• foam granules.

Insulation of the attic floor in a wooden house must be done with environmentally friendly, natural and breathable material.

How to properly insulate an attic floor with mineral wool

Mineral wool is a common and modern heat insulator. Available in rolls or slabs (mats). It does not rot or burn, rodents and various kinds of microorganisms are also not afraid of it.

Insulating the ceiling of a cold attic with mineral wool begins with laying lining material on the floor. For budget option glassine is laid on the floor, but it is more expensive and quality option– flooring made of vapor barrier film. The film is laid with an overlap, and the joints are taped or secured wooden slats, which are fixed with a construction stapler.

The width of the insulation is selected based on the requirements of thermal engineering standards for each region. Mineral wool is placed between the joists tightly and without gaps. The joints are taped with tape. After the insulation is laid, level boards are simply laid on the joists, thus forming the floor in the attic. This simple solution for creating a floor allows the mineral wool to “breathe” and ventilate normally if it gets wet. To prevent moisture from entering the mineral wool, waterproofing material is laid under the roof.

Mineral wool is laid using personal protective equipment: thick clothing, goggles, gloves, respirator.

Insulation of attic floor slabs with extruded polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam are not very dense materials, so they are used when the attic floor is a structure made of joists and beams. If it is necessary to insulate the slabs, insulate the ceiling of a cold attic. extruded polystyrene foam. This material is stronger and therefore denser than regular foam. Before laying it, the surface of the slabs should be leveled. There is no need for vapor barrier on the warm side of the floor, since concrete slabs have almost no vapor permeability.

To aligned concrete plates lay a vapor barrier film. Next, slabs of extruded polystyrene foam are laid in a checkerboard pattern. The joints are blown with polyurethane foam. After the foam has dried and hardened, the insulating boards are poured concrete mortar 4-6 cm thick. When the screed is dry, it is already suitable for use as a floor. Although you can go further and put any floor covering on the screed.

Thermal insulation of a cold attic with ecowool

Ecowool is a cellulose, lightweight and loose insulation material, consisting mainly of waste paper and newspapers. Other components - borax and boric acid - are used as flame retardants.

Before insulation, it is necessary to place a film on the floor. The procedure for laying ecowool occurs using a special blowing installation. The insulation layer is applied as a continuous cover, without creating cracks. Since ecowool contains a large amount of air, a layer of 250-300 mm is usually enough.

Do not forget that over time, the material will shrink. Therefore, apply a layer of ecowool 40-50 mm more.

After the insulation of the cold attic floor with ecowool is completed, it must be moistened. You can do this with plain water or prepare a solution of 200 grams. PVA glue on a bucket of water. Soak a regular broom in this solution and moisten the cotton well. After drying, a crust forms on the surface of the cotton wool - lingin, which will not allow the cotton wool to move.

As you can see, there are plenty of ways to insulate the floor in the attic. Which one to use depends on each specific situation. The main thing is to follow the correct technology for laying thermal insulation! Then your home will always be warm, and the materials used will last for many years.

How to insulate an attic floor

How to insulate a ceiling in a cold attic. Insulating the attic floor with mineral wool and extruded polystyrene foam. How to properly insulate the floor in the attic.

How to properly insulate the floors of a cold attic with mineral wool?

When ensuring insulation of a private house and insulation of the roof along the rafters, one must not forget that special attention should be paid to such a place as the attic.

Development of attic floor insulation with mineral wool

Warm air tends to rise to the top, and therefore, in a temporarily unheated room, heat can escape through the cold attic space. Therefore, the issue of insulating the attic must be resolved without delay.

1 Why do you need attic floor insulation?

Insulation of a cold attic floor with stone or mineral wool, according to by and large needed in lightly used rooms that are properly equipped with special roof ventilation.

The attic, or rather its ceilings, serves as a kind of boundary between heat and cold. In such places, the attic floors are exposed to intense moisture due to the formation of condensation.

However, you can properly insulate the floors in the attic of a house with mineral wool with your own hands. The very process of insulating the floor in the attic with mineral wool is the creation of a durable thermal insulation coating, which will have a low degree of thermal conductivity.

The technology itself for insulating mineral wool floors in the attic, as well as Energoflex thermal insulation for pipes, implies strict adherence to its stages and requirements.

The technology itself is quite simple and understandable. Good thermal insulation Attic flooring using mineral wool helps close unwanted gaps.

To do this, the insulation must be laid tightly. In most cases, mineral wool is used to insulate the attic of a house.

The presented insulation is the most suitable for this type of work; it can also be used to insulate the floor surface in the living areas of the house.

Schematic insulation of the attic floor with mineral wool

By organizing good insulation with mineral wool, the most optimal temperature will be maintained in residential premises.

If the procedure is performed incorrectly, moisture rising from the floor of the house will lead to the formation of condensation.

It will accumulate on the ceiling and then seep through the ceilings. The resulting temperature difference in those areas where the attic floors adjoin the walls of the house initiates the formation of mold and microscopic fungi, which can be causative agents of allergic diseases.

1.1 Requirements for attic insulation

The process of insulating the attic floor and insulating the roof of the house with your own hands, or rather the level of its quality, has a direct impact not only on the size of heat loss, but also on the duration of the operational life of the entire truss structure and roof coverings.

The fact is that water vapor located inside the heated room diffuses to the attic of the house. In order for the insulation used to provide a high degree of calculated efficiency of the thermal insulation layer, it must always be dry.

Based on this, the insulation must be protected from excessive humidification by vapors of rising heated air using a special vapor-proof material.

If the attic space is well insulated, it will not only provide high-quality thermal insulation, but will also help increase the service life of the entire roofing structure.

Insulating the ceiling of a cold attic with mineral wool

If there is no vapor barrier, steam will penetrate through the unprotected attic floors and condense on the floor surfaces.

This will lead to moisture flowing onto the rafters, which, under its influence, will begin to slowly rot from the inside.

As a result, the likelihood of destruction increases roofing pie. The thermal insulation performance of the structure is also reduced due to the fact that the tightness of the vapor barrier layer has been compromised.

Before insulating the attic, you need to drain the layer and remove moisture from the entire attic space. To do this, ventilation should be done through windows. They can be:

In order to ensure maximum ventilation intensity, the total area of ​​all ventilation openings should be equal to 0.2-0.5% of the attic floors.

If all work is carried out correctly, then icicles will not form on the roof in winter. The insulation process itself attic space It is carried out not from the living quarters, but from the attic floor.

This is the most convenient way to lay insulation, the choice of which depends on the technology used and design features buildings.

1.2 Features of insulation of beam floors

When implementing such an insulation scheme using mineral wool, heat is retained in the space between the beams. Their usual height is almost always enough for this, but if necessary, several bars are packed on top.

Insulating the ceiling with mineral wool from the attic side

The lower part of the ceiling is sewn up using molded material, as when insulating the attic of a private house. For this, lining or sheets of plasterboard can be used.

The subfloor covering is laid on top of the beams. This can be a tongue and groove board, plywood sheet or OSB board. Mineral wool is placed on a previously prepared special vapor barrier layer.

An alternative can be an ordinary film made using polyethylene. If the vapor barrier material is foil-coated, then it is laid with the shiny surface down.

The intermediate distance between the beams is filled with mineral wool with the required thickness parameters. The surface of the beams must be equipped with an additional insulating layer.

This will lead to blocking the so-called cold bridges and will significantly reduce the overall level of heat loss. If high quality timber was used to create the beams, then finishing material creep directly onto their surface.

Mineral wool is placed between them as when insulating a roof using polyurethane foam, and the attic floor is laid on top. The use of this technology is especially important in houses that are made of logs or beams.

It is important to reliably protect mineral wool from the smallest drops of moisture, this is especially true if the roof has minor coating defects that cause leaks.

The layer of mineral wool must be reliably protected from the effects of wind from the eaves. For this purpose, mineral wool slabs with a high degree of density are used.

2 Why is mineral wool used to insulate an attic?

In most cases, when insulating attic floors, the consumer's choice falls on mineral wool. Its advantage is that its installation does not require special skills.

Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation properties. Its structure consists of thin glassy fibers, the length of which ranges from 2 to 60 millimeters.

Insulating the attic with mineral wool

High sound insulation characteristics are ensured due to the presence of a large number of air pores.

These pores are located in the space between the fibers and can occupy 95% of the total volume of the insulation. Mineral wool is presented in three varieties; it can be basalt glass and stone.

Basalt wool is made using molten basalt rocks, to which binding elements are added.

This may be a carbonate type rock, which regulates the acidity level of the substance, which entails an increase in the service life of the insulation. Glass wool exhibits high heat-resistant properties and can withstand temperatures up to +450 degrees Celsius.

2.1 Technology for insulating attic floors with mineral wool

When carrying out work related to mineral wool, it is important to comply with all safety requirements and regulations.

This is due to the fact that in the process of cutting and laying such material, the air is filled with tiny particles that can enter the respiratory organs and thus cause harm to human health.

During installation, be sure to ensure the availability of personal protective equipment. Goggles, a respirator and thick rubber gloves must be available.

The process of insulating attic floors begins with the selection of the necessary tools and additional materials. You can't do without:

The essence of insulation technology is that the insulation must be carefully laid in the space between the attic floors or beams.

To enhance the thermal insulation qualities, reliable vapor barrier protection should be used. Warm and moisture-saturated air will continuously rise from the living rooms and reach the top through the ceiling.

There, in the under-roof space, it will collide with a layer of insulation. Due to the fact that mineral wool is generally considered a vapor-proof material, it will absorb all the outgoing moisture inside itself.

If she is left without the necessary air access and sun rays, it will gradually shrink and eventually lose all its heat-insulating qualities.

Cold attic interfloor covering 20 cm min. wool

In order to avoid such destructive consequences, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier material under a layer of mineral wool.

Before starting the main work, you will need to carefully calculate required quantity insulation.

The amount of cotton wool purchased depends on how many layers are planned to be used when covering the attic space. In addition, the thermal insulation thickness parameter directly depends on the climatic conditions in the region.

Insulating the ceiling of a cold attic with mineral wool

Insulating the ceiling of a cold attic with mineral wool - advantages. Features of insulation of cold attic floors with mineral wool.

Rules for insulating floors with mineral wool: 1st floor and attic

When building a private house, special attention should be paid to the insulation of structures. Important elements that are directly exposed to cold air are the floors of the first floor in a cold basement, external walls, attic floors, mansard roof. As universal type mineral wool can be used for insulation.

Insulating the floor with mineral wool allows you to ensure a comfortable floor temperature and retain heat in the room. Due to its non-flammability, the material can be used in both wooden and stone construction without any fear.

What is mineral wool

This insulation is a material with a fibrous structure. The fibers are arranged in a chaotic manner. Each manufacturer has its own preparation recipe. All components are melted at very high temperatures and then broken into fine fibers in a centrifuge. Next, mineral wool is produced using heat treatment.

Types of mineral wool

For the construction of a house, mineral wool is produced in three types.

1. Glass. The material is made from broken glass.
2. Stone. This type can be called the most common. Most often you can find material made from basalt fiber, but it is also made from other minerals. Perform insulation stone wool easier compared to the other two.
3. Slag. Has the lowest thermal insulation characteristics and increased fragility. Not suitable for facade work and pipelines.

In addition to this classification, there is a division according to the form in which mineral wool is produced.

1. Rolled material has low rigidity, therefore it is mostly used for insulating the walls of a house or the floor along joists.
2. Rigid mineral slabs or mats are excellent for use in insulating floors and attic roofs.

To insulate the floor covering, it is preferable to use the second option, since hard mineral wool will ensure reliable operation of the floor under load.

Advantages and disadvantages of the material

TO positive qualities mineral wool can be classified as:

• good thermal insulation;
• simple installation technology; mineral wool does not require special fastening in the floor structure;
• low degree of moisture absorption from the environment;
• reasonable price;
• resistance to high temperatures and open fire;
• safety for humans while complying with the technology;
• resistance to bacteria, mold and mildew.

Thanks to these qualities, mineral wool has become widespread in both wood and stone construction.

But one cannot help but mention its features and disadvantages, which include:

• necessity additional protection for workers: overalls, gloves, mask;
• it is necessary to protect the insulation from moisture, the technology includes vapor barrier and waterproofing;
• ability to absorb water, inability to use in wet areas;
• high degree of shrinkage when installation and operating conditions are violated;
• when laying in a wooden building between the joists, it is necessary to provide a gap of 3-5 cm between the insulation and the floor covering structure.

If these features are not taken into account, insulation will become dangerous for humans, for example, the lack of special clothing for workers will lead to particles of material getting on the skin and into the lungs. This will cause irritation, itching, and allergic reactions.

Application for floor insulation

As floor insulation in a house mineral wool slabs apply in the following cases:

• in the floor structure of the first floor in the presence of a cold basement or underground;
• in the design of interfloor ceilings to increase sound insulation;
• in the design of the attic floor in the presence of a cold attic.

For an individual house, when installing, in all cases it is necessary that the technology be strictly followed, otherwise the insulation will not perform its function.

Insulation technology

When laying insulation, the technology must be strictly followed. The insulation “pie” depends on the type of floor, so let’s look at the instructions below.

First floor covering

If there is a cold basement or underground, insulation of the floor structure is required. Regardless of the building in which the work is carried out, wooden or stone, the layers are laid in the following order when installing mineral wool on top:

In wooden house construction, slab or roll material is laid between the joists, observing the order of the layers. It is possible to secure the material from below; this is more intelligent from the point of view of thermal engineering, but it is very labor-intensive.

Insulation with mineral wool from below

Sound insulation of interfloor ceilings

As protection against sound propagation, mineral wool is placed in the floor pie in the following order:

The event is especially effective when constructing brick or concrete house, but in a wooden one it won’t be superfluous either.

Note that in reinforced concrete floors, 3-5 cm of mineral wool under the screed is sufficient to dampen impact and airborne noise. And in wooden floors, the layer of material should be at least 5-10 cm.

Insulation of the attic floor

If the building has a cold attic, it is necessary to protect the ceiling of the upper floor. In a wooden building, mineral wool is laid between the joists, in a stone building - both between the joists and under the cement screed.

The installation procedure is the same as in the previous case. The difference lies in the material of the attic flooring and the thickness of the insulation layer.

In this case, protection of the structure is carried out to prevent excessive heat loss from the room to the cold attic. Heated air accumulates under the ceiling and, in the absence of necessary measures, easily enters the attic space, creating large heat losses for the house.

Thickness calculation

In an individual house there are no requirements for thermal protection of structures, so the thickness of the insulation can be selected approximately. It depends on the climate of the area; for most cases, protection with mineral wool 100-150 mm thick will be sufficient.

To calculate a more accurate value, you can use the help of a specialist or the simple Teremok program. It can be found freely available on the Internet.

Mineral wool is a modern thermal insulation material that, if used correctly, will last a long time and reliably protect building elements. The material is suitable for working with all types of floors from basement to attic.

Insulation of floors with mineral wool: attic, floor of the 1st floor

Due to its non-flammability, the material can be used in both wooden and stone construction without any fear.

Insulation of the attic and attic floor

For comfortable operation of the building, it is necessary that the attic floor be well insulated to prevent a decrease in temperature ceiling surface below the dew point. Otherwise, moisture spots will certainly appear on the ceiling and walls, which will only worsen appearance rooms, but will also cause mold growth and the development of fungi, which are difficult to get rid of. Therefore, increased demands are placed on the thermal protection of the attic floor.

Insulating the ceiling of a cold attic

In accordance with the standards, the heat transfer resistance for the attic floor must be no less than the following value: Ro = 4.15 m 2 °C/W. Attic floor country house insulated with slabs of mineral (basalt) or glass wool. Insulation boards must be laid in the spaces between ceiling beams or on floor slabs. Mineral wool is laid on a vapor barrier layer or on a plastic film.

Foil thermal insulation material is laid with the shiny side down. The space between the beams is filled with a layer of heat-insulating material. To reduce heat loss through cold bridges, another layer of thermal insulation is laid on top of the beams.

To reduce heat loss from lightweight fiber insulation due to drafts, it is protected with vapor-permeable windproof material. The use of such material makes it possible to increase thermal protection overlap the attic and protect the insulation from getting wet if drops of moisture get on it (if the roof is damaged or leaks).

From the eaves, the insulation layer should also be protected from the wind by high-density mineral wool slabs or boards that are installed on the edge.

Roof attic insulation

An attic or attic space divided into compartments by partitions can be insulated in different ways.

• The first method: if the attic is non-residential, then only the floors should be insulated - ceiling building.
• The second method: if the attic has an attic, then you need to insulate the roof, in addition to the floors.

To insulate the roof of the attic and rooms, the following are usually used:

1. Construction felt.
2. Mineral wool in various designs.
3. Styrofoam.
4. Polyurethane foam.
5. Basalt, glass wool, ecowool.

Floors in the attic can be insulated with the following materials:

1. Construction felt, mineral wool, glass wool.
2. Foam silicate slabs.
3. Expanded clay, slag, ash, sawdust, straw, reeds.

Before insulating the attic, the joints of the floor and roof are checked, the cracks are sealed with tow soaked in lime mortar. You can also use polyurethane foam, silicone adhesives and sealants.

Before carrying out work, all wooden structures are coated with antiseptic and fire retardant compounds.

When insulating a roof made of asbestos-cement sheets, special attention should be paid to the gaps that are formed by the waves of asbestos-cement sheets. If there are cracks, they are filled with tow in lime mortar.

The presence of protective covers, collars and aprons is checked at the junction of asbestos-cement sheets to parapets, pipes and walls. The covering elements should be extended onto the protective ceilings by at least 15 cm.

An alternative option for insulating the attic is to insulate the ceiling in a private house. The effect of the work will be approximately the same.

And here are instructions for insulating an attic ceiling. We'll tell you step by step how to carry out the work from start to finish.

Insulating the attic with various materials

To insulate attic spaces and the attic in a private house, different insulation materials are used:

The insulation process is the same for all materials, so let’s look at attic insulation using mineral wool as an example.

Before you begin insulating the attic, it is necessary to waterproof the roof. Mineral wool is versatile and easy to use, has low thermal conductivity and density, withstands high temperatures well and is insensitive to aggressive environments. Mineral wool is also an excellent sound insulator.

Attic slopes can be insulated with slabs and mats made of mineral wool. The slabs are more rigid, and the mats are more elastic; this property helps to lay them better and more densely. Mineral wool mats with foil coating are also used for vapor barrier.

Since the thickness of mineral wool is usually greater than the thickness of the rafters, overlays are made on them to increase the thickness. Also, the rafter system is pre-impregnated with an antiseptic solution.

Mineral wool is laid in the spaces between the rafters on the sheathing and covered with a vapor barrier film. Vapor barrier film overlapped on rafter system. The width of the overlap of the canvas is visible on the film - a line is drawn along the edge of the canvas. The joints of the film are insulated with special glue and adhesive tape.

Floor insulation with expanded clay

Expanded clay should be laid on the attic floor on roofing felt. The thickness of the expanded clay layer is determined by the thermal conductivity of the floor, but in any case, the thickness of the expanded clay should be at least 15 cm, and better - 20-25 cm.

It is known that up to 15% of the heat from a house can escape through the ceiling. Therefore, to reduce heat losses, the ceiling is insulated with expanded clay and other materials. Expanded clay not only retains heat, but also increases sound insulation.

Expanded clay is usually used for insulation concrete floor. To do this, it is covered with a layer of 200-250 mm, and a cement screed up to 50 mm thick is poured on top. The screed will serve as the floor.

The cement-sand mortar for the screed must be of a dense consistency so that it does not flow into the expanded clay backfill.

Insulation with mineral wool

1. Mineral wool should be laid from the farthest point of the attic.
2. The insulation must be cut on a hard surface.
3. Beams, pipes, ventilation shafts, etc. should be covered with insulation.
4. Mineral wool should be laid in a layer of at least 25 cm.

When working with mineral wool, it is necessary individual means protection. These include safety glasses, rubber gloves, a respirator and clothing with long sleeve. Do not work near open food or drinking water. Contact of mineral wool on the skin causes irritation and itching.

In fact, mineral wool is widely used in construction, for example, when insulating facades with mineral wool.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

The attic is insulated with polyurethane foam by spraying onto the partitions, roof, gables and attic floors, so the thermal insulation layer is obtained without seams or joints, that is, a monolithic vapor-tight layer is obtained.

Polyurethane foam has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, so the thickness of the polyurethane foam layer is several times smaller than the layer of mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

The use of polyurethane foam increases usable area attic space.

An attic insulated by spraying a layer of polyurethane foam is not affected by humidity, condensation does not form on the walls, because the polyurethane foam retains warm air inside. Moisture does not pass through polyurethane foam and cannot settle on a cold roof.

Insulation with sawdust

Floor insulation with sawdust is used only in non-residential attics, since when walking, the sawdust will gradually become compacted, which will lead to the appearance of cracks in the concrete screed. The most common recipe for a solution using sawdust for insulating an attic floor:

1. Ten buckets of small sawdust.
2. One bucket of cement, grade no less than 300.
3. One bucket of fluff lime.
4. Ten liters of water with antiseptic. It could be boric acid copper sulfate, laundry soap.

The volume of water varies depending on the moisture content of the sawdust. The finished sawdust solution is laid in layers 20-25 cm thick and compacted. All building materials used in the walls of the house must be vapor permeable. That is, you cannot use roofing felt, polyethylene, roofing felt and other materials that do not allow moisture to pass through.

When insulating, the layer of sawdust on top is covered with panels made of plywood, fiberboard or boards. The thickness of the sawdust layer on the walls should be at least 15 cm, on the ceilings and on the floor - at least 25 cm. When insulating the floor, a cement screed 5-10 cm thick is placed on top of the sawdust.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic and attic spaces - materials and methods of insulation

Insulating the attic of a residential building is necessary to avoid heat leakage and to save energy resources when heating the building. Use of various insulation materials