How to properly heat a stove with birch wood. Rules to remember. Preparatory work before lighting the stove

From a conversation on a construction forum:
- If a potbelly stove with dry wood heated the room up to 20 degrees, then with wet wood it barely reached 15. And, the burning time is the same (if you count by the number of logs). Most best option(if there is no dry firewood) - dry the fuel right next to the stove, at least for several days. The effect is very noticeable. If there is no dry firewood at all, you have to make it slightly dried, and then add it raw. Damp wood burns poorly, but for a long time. They heat at half strength, but they burn longer. Why this is so is not clear...
- The energy (heat) of wood combustion is spent on heating the excess moisture (water) contained to the boiling point and evaporation of this water

  1. Third Nobel and reaped guarantees

Calculation of mass calorific value of raw firewood

In order to once and for all clarify for myself the topic of calorific value for raw and firewood, I found a calculation method on one of the forums, took out a school textbook and sat down to count.
This is what happened:


- dry combustible substance 0.8 kg
- water 0.2 kg

Heat of combustion of wood 4752.9 kcal/kg x 0.8 kg = 3802 kcal

Let's calculate the heat that water (0.2 kg) will take when heated to 100 degrees, and then when it turns into steam and heats the steam to a temperature of 800 degrees:

Heating water from 20 to 100 degrees: 1 kcal/kg°C x 80°C x 0.2 kg = 1.6 kcal
Steaming: 0.2 kg x 539 kcal/kg = 108 kcal
Steam heating: 0.2kg x 700°C x 0.51kcal/kg°C = 71 kcal

Total
3802 - 1.6 - 108 - 71 = 3621 (kcal)

For firewood, with a relative humidity of 40%
(damp firewood)

Estimated weight of firewood is 1 kg, incl.
- dry combustible substance 0.6 kg
- water 0.4 kg

Heat of combustion of wood 4752.9 kcal/kg x 0.6 kg = 2852 kcal

Let's calculate the heat that water (0.4 kg) will take when heated to 100 degrees, and then when it turns into steam and heats the steam to a temperature of 800 degrees:

Heating water from 20 to 100 degrees: 1 kcal/kg°C x 80°C x 0.4 kg = 3.2 kcal
Steaming: 0.4 kg x 539 kcal/kg = 216 kcal
Steam heating: 0.4kg x 700°C x 0.51kcal/kg°C = 143 kcal

Total
2852 - 3.2 - 216 - 143 = 2490 (kcal)

For firewood, with a relative humidity of 60%
(very damp, freshly cut firewood)

Estimated weight of firewood is 1 kg, incl.
- dry combustible substance 0.4 kg
- water 0.6 kg

Heat of combustion of wood 4752.9 kcal/kg x 0.4 kg = 1901 kcal

Let's calculate the heat that water (0.6 kg) will take when heated to 100 degrees, and then when it turns into steam and heats the steam to a temperature of 800 degrees:

Heating water from 20 to 100 degrees: 1 kcal/kg°C x 80°C x 0.6 kg = 4.8 kcal
Steaming: 0.6 kg x 539 kcal/kg = 323 kcal
Steam heating: 0.6kg x 700°C x 0.51kcal/kg°C = 214 kcal

Total
1901 - 4.8 - 323 - 214 = 1359 (kcal)

When analyzing the calculation results, the following becomes obvious:

  1. The mass calorific value of room-dry and freshly cut firewood varies by more than twice
  2. The decrease in the mass calorific value of firewood occurs mainly due to a decrease in the weight fraction of dry combustible matter per unit mass of fuel. Heat losses for heating and evaporation of water, as well as for heating water vapor, are relatively small. Accordingly, 180, 362 and 542 (kcal). Of the total mass calorific value of absolutely dry wood (4752.9 kcal/kg), this is (only) 3.7%, 7.6% and 11.4% for relative humidity of 20%, 40% and 60%.
  3. However, wood with a humidity of 60% practically does not burn. What kind of 11.4% heat loss is there? Obviously, there is something different here. Right now, let's try to get to the bottom of it...
  4. The only reassuring thing is that approximately the same figures were obtained using a completely different method for the calorific value of wood. This suggests the plausibility of the results and the chosen path.

Yes! In mass units, some kind of unconvincing calculation turns out...
What if we repeat everything for volumetric units?

Calculation of volumetric calorific value of raw firewood

To calculate the volumetric calorific value of firewood of different moisture content, let us take as an example oak firewood with a density of 0.81 kg/dm 3 and a calorific value of 3240 kcal/dm 3, with a humidity of 12% (see). Let's assume that there is a batch of firewood with the volume of each log 1dm 3 and weighing, respectively, 0.81 kg (for ease of calculation). It is quite obvious that each such log will contain the same amount of dry combustible matter (0.81 kg each). Moreover, this amount of flammable substance will remain unchanged, even if some log is soaked in water for a long time. And if the amount of combustible substance is the same in dry, wet, and wet logs, then their calorific value will also be the same.

Nobel Prize for calculating the calorific value of raw firewood

The conclusion is clearly worthy of a Nobel Prize!
The volumetric calorific value of both wet and dry wood is the same.
In principle, this is so, if we recall the definition for the calorific value of wood. The heat required to heat and evaporate the water contained in wood is called the latent heat of combustion. The heat required to remove water from wood during combustion is the famous difference between absolute and working calorific value

In the case of volumetric calorific value (as opposed to mass), when the moisture content of firewood changes, its volume does not change. Water is simply absorbed into the voids of the wood, but the volume of combustible wood substance does not change. Subsequently, during the burning of wood, this water will be evaporated and released into the atmosphere. Thus, the volumetric heating value of wet firewood is equal to the volumetric heating value of dry firewood minus the latent heat of combustion required to remove water from the wood.

In our case, with oak firewood:

From the absolute calorific value of dry oak wood (0% moisture content)

4752.9 kcal/kg x 0.81 kg/dm3 = 3849 kcal/dm3

you need to subtract the latent heat of combustion necessary to remove water from the wood, which is calculated based on the degree of its moisture content.

Another Nobel Prize for calorific value calculations

Let's check our own correctness using the method of extreme modeling of the situation.

Suppose we managed to moisten our oak log (volume 1 dm 3) to such a state that it absorbed 1 dm 3 of water. Then, the wood of such a super-wet oak will be:

The heat of combustion of wood is 3849 kcal/dm 3 minus the heat that water will take (1 dm 3 = 1 kg) when heated to 100 degrees, followed by evaporation and heating of the steam to a temperature of 800 degrees:

Heating water from 20 to 100 degrees: 1 kcal/kg°C x 80°C x 1 kg = 80 kcal
Steaming: 1 kg x 539 kcal/kg = 539 kcal
Steam heating: 1kg x 700°C x 0.51kcal/kg°C = 357 kcal

Total
3849 - 80 - 539 - 357 = 2873(kcal)

Well, the result was good.

There are still quite a few calories left to support combustion and evaporation of the second liter of water. It turns out that if we could moisten oak firewood to an incredibly fantastic degree such that 1 dm 3 of firewood absorbed 2 dm 3 of water, then such firewood would be able to burn. In other words, wood of any moisture content should burn hot and bright, even directly in water?

Despite the absurdity of the conditions of the task, a stupid result is also a result. In order not to admit his own idiocy, the author will immediately stop distorting the theory of combustion and take it as an axiom:

  1. 1dm 3 oak firewood is enough to heat 2 liters of water to a temperature of 100°C, evaporate it and then heat the resulting steam to 700°C (assuming the fireplace efficiency is 50%)
  2. 1dm 3 oak firewood, 70% humidity contains approximately 0.56 liters of water. Such firewood is not capable of burning on its own. Proven by practice.

Why is that?

Why doesn’t damp wood burn (burns poorly)?

Because the wood itself directly (does not oxidize). Only the products of thermal decomposition of wood - pyrolysis - burn (oxidize). The first signs of the process of thermal decomposition of wood (pyrolysis) appear at 400...500°C. For stable pyrolysis, a temperature of 700...900°C is required. To start pyrolysis, the wood must be heated to a pyrolysis temperature of external source heat (set on fire). If there is no heat loss in the high-temperature pyrolysis zone, the wood will ignite and burn. The high-temperature pyrolysis zone will heat neighboring areas of wood and move towards them. Thus, the wood will burn.

Now, our water.
Water in wood is found in pericellular and intracellular voids. That is, the water in the raw wood is located directly in the high-temperature pyrolysis zone and cools it. Until the water has evaporated from the wood, it is impossible to heat it to 400...500°C, much less to 700...900°C. Thus, the evaporation of water from the wood layer is mandatory process, which precedes the pyrolysis of wood and the combustion of pyrolysis products. Before that, wood was just non-flammable substance, if I may say so. But that's half the trouble...

After the water evaporates, the water vapor mixes with the gaseous products of wood pyrolysis and cools them. There is much more harm from water here. If in the case of water evaporation we are talking simply about heat loss, then when mixing water vapor with gaseous pyrolysis products - we're talking about about the direct loss of precious combustible substance. Because combustion (oxidation) of gases occurs on a fine line between its heated volume and the surrounding air, where there is oxygen. Water vapor, mixing with flammable gases, lowers their concentration and temperature, and facilitates removal from the combustion zone in an unburned (non-oxidized) form. Thick white smoke from damp firewood is nothing more than water vapor mixed with unburned pyrolysis gases.

It is necessary to carefully prepare the stove mechanism for the heating procedure. In standard industrial furnace models, you need to work using three main components - a combustion chamber, a specialized smoke and burning exhaust system, equipped with a blower and a device for storing ash from firewood - an ash pan.

It must be thoroughly cleaned of any remaining ash remaining from the time of the previous kindling - an excessive amount of this substance will interfere with the access of air to the stove. This will significantly slow down the ignition process. In most stoves, the ash pan is a small compartment, so cleaning it will not take much time and effort from the stove maker. After completing the preparation, you can proceed to the next stage - laying firewood.

On the question of how to properly heat a wood-burning stove, important place involves working with smoke exhaust and blower systems.

  • Before starting work, open both channels to fill the combustion chamber with oxygen.
  • While interacting with the smoke exhaust duct, open the shaft damper leading from the combustion chamber to the roof outlet.
  • Prepare the required amount of fuel to start work, as well as to complete the entire heating process.
  • The initial mass of firewood for kindling should be at least one third of the total volume of the stove chamber.
  • Only good quality firewood must be used.

Examples of loading firewood:

The first ignition is a responsible event. You should not try to light a stove with raw wood - all material for heating the stove must be easily and quickly flammable. Otherwise, there is a risk of wasting a huge amount of it, but not achieving the desired goal - to light the stove so that it is warm.

It is necessary to ensure that the base of the combustion material is well dried. At first, it is good to lay thinner wood logs first. It is possible to use various auxiliary means - dry paper from old books or newspapers, well-dried tree bark before starting work.

Features of the combustion chamber of different types of furnaces

There are several types of stoves, depending on the material:

  • Made of stainless steel;
  • Cast iron;
  • Brick.

How to properly heat a metal stove?

More often, these heating devices are found in bathhouses, but there are often cases when residents of ordinary rural houses build them for themselves. It is imperative to take into account the temperature in the wood burning stove when working with such a structure. Although such stoves are small in size, not every owner knows how to heat them in order to maintain heat in the room for a long time.

The general rules are identical for all types furnace structures, therefore, do not be afraid of this matter - there is absolutely nothing complicated in it, every master can do it if desired:

  1. It is important to remember that when working with metal stoves, there are several important restrictions that must be met immediately when starting work.
  2. First of all, in order to properly light the stove with wood without wasting it, you should not use flammable mixtures sold in stores to water the wood. This has an extremely negative impact both on the environment and on the general health of the stove keeper - excessive abundance chemicals, as well as the forced need to breathe their vapors for a long time have not benefited anyone.
  3. Prefer data aids special tablets made of alcohol, sold in the same department of the supermarket as lighter fluid - they burn for a long time. Thanks to them, firewood ignites quickly, easily, and also has a much lower level of toxicity. They can be used if there is a need to work with poorly dried firewood.

Features of working with a cast iron stove

  • One of the main rules for working with such a stove is to keep the doors and the blower structure tightly closed.
  • The air draft control device must remain wide open - this is the only way to ensure best quality working with a stove of this type.
  • In order to properly stack firewood in the stove, without fear of getting thermal burns, purchase special gloves to protect the skin of your hands, and an apron so as not to contaminate your clothes with soot.
  • Be sure to take precautions during work - when loading each new portion of firewood, you must carefully open the doors, in no case in a hurry - the intra-stove pressure must certainly return to normal.

Properly heating a brick stove

In the first half hour of operation, such a structure must be heated very intensively, exactly until it reaches optimal temperature indoor air.

When the desired value is reached, a draft regulator should be installed to avoid a further decrease in temperature. Furnace temperature wood stove must be stable. This will help significantly reduce raw material costs.

Brick stoves have the largest dimensions compared to other types of heating devices, so only physically resilient people who do not have health problems can work with such a structure. To ensure the smooth functioning of such a stove, you often have to lift heavy objects.

How to properly heat a brick stove with wood in winter?

In order to ensure maximum heat gain in brick oven during the cold winter period, certain working conditions must be observed. Please note that in in this case you just need to know how to properly place firewood in the stove - each new load should take place at least forty minutes apart.

Temperature in the stove when burning wood

Our country has an abundance of forests in its vast expanses; it is for this reason that firewood was, is and will be the most popular type of fuel. By burning chopped logs you can get a large amount of heat. But it’s worth considering: the stove can be heated as efficiently as possible only after reaching certain temperature readings.

The flame temperature has a direct relationship with the type of wood used to work:

  • For example, poplar gives a maximum temperature of only 500 degrees. This makes it not very suitable for kindling in winter time, as well as in rooms with a large area.
  • An excellent solution would be to use oak logs in your work - their thermal indicators are 900 degrees.

Temperature depends on the type of firewood

How to light a stove with raw wood?

Remember that the use of such raw materials in your work is highly undesirable. But, if there is an urgent need to use it, adding alcohol tablets to the firewood to speed up the ignition will be the best solution.

How to keep the room warm as much as possible?

You should not open the vent too often - when the temperature in the house reaches the desired level, close it and start working directly with the fire door. Add a new portion of firewood. This way, the temperature will remain at the desired level for more than one hour, and you will significantly save energy on maintaining it.

What should you do to avoid getting burned?

If the stove flame suddenly turns bright white, then excess air has begun to flow into the stove, which can cause a fire. To prevent such unpleasant consequences close the oven doors.

Fire safety rules

As in any production and heating work, working with stoves has its own rules fire safety, which all owners of these devices need to know. It is important to remember: how to light a stove with wood without excessive soot emission; after the last fire burns out, do not forget to rake away the smoldering coals and tightly close all stove openings upon completion of the work.

How to heat if there is no wood?

What to heat the stove with besides wood and coal? Other types of fuel can be used for heating. If there is no firewood, use:

  • Pellets are granules made from wood processing waste and peat;
  • Peat briquettes;
  • Peat;
  • Kizyak - in the steppe regions

According to the testimony of old people, straw had to be used as fuel. Small branches that fell from the trees were also used. They were tied into bundles and used to fire stoves. They collected dead wood in the forest.

conclusions

If you follow fire safety rules, as well as the simple secrets of proper heating described in the article, working with the stove will become simpler and easier - the efficiency of the procedure will significantly increase and the life of the structure itself will be extended.

Wood-burning stoves are still very often used today country houses, especially in baths, where you simply cannot do without it. Of course, it would be possible to install modern devices, made of metal, but the traditional Russian bathhouse is a brick oven, safe and reliable. Moreover, a huge number of generations of craftsmen have brought the design of a wood-burning stove to maximum quality indicators. So, don’t worry about which oven is best to choose. Better think about how to properly heat a stove with wood?

For many, this may seem like an insignificant problem. Place the wood in the firebox, light it and wait for the air temperature to reach the required limits. Everything is good in words, but in reality everything is different. Therefore, first we will deal with the question of how to properly heat a bathhouse with wood, then we will move on to the main house. Although both the processes are almost the same, there are some differences.

Features of the stove firing process

Let's start with warnings that will affect the quality of operation of the heating unit.

Attention! At the core efficient work of a wood-burning stove are: its good condition, the ability to light it correctly, the quality of the wood.

Furnace condition

This is an important indicator, because the heat loss of the device will depend on it. For example, a small gap between the combustion chamber door and the wall brick wall reduces work efficiency by 10%. Why is this happening? Because cold air will enter this gap, which, under the influence of draft, will draw thermal energy through the chimney. Just 2mm of clearance and you can count the losses.

Firewood must be stacked correctly

For example, an open firebox without a door reduces efficiency by 40%. And this means a decrease in temperature and extra firewood. There are obvious monetary losses, plus an increase in the process of melting the bath. Therefore, recommendations:

  • Carry out repairs to the brick kiln at least once a year. Pay attention to the cracks and gaps that appear at the points of contact various designs. Under the influence of humidity and temperature changes, even brickwork may crack. Repairs are best carried out in the summer.
  • Experts recommend cleaning the stove chimney two or three times a year. When wood burns, a large amount of soot is released, which settles on the walls of the combustion chamber and the chimney. All this reduces the size of the structure, which leads to its incorrect operation. For example, a soot thickness in the combustion chamber of 1-2 mm reduces the heat transfer efficiency by 20-25%.
  • Before each kindling, it is necessary to clean the grate and the chamber where ash remains after burning wood. If this is not done, then the flow of air into the firebox will be insufficient, which will lead to inefficient combustion of the fuel.

Of course, if these three operations are not carried out, the oven will still work. But work efficiency decreases, the time for kindling increases, more firewood is wasted, and, accordingly, your money.

Firewood harvesting

Quality of fuel used

Now we will answer the question: what kind of wood is best to heat the stove? First of all, they must be dry, so experienced steam lovers know that fuel must be prepared in advance, long before its use. Typically this period is determined by one year, and this is the minimum.

The firewood is placed under a canopy so that neither rain nor snow affects it. They are sawn into logs and split into four parts. This size is considered optimal. Although there are no strict restrictions. The fuel moisture indicator is very important, because wet wood under the influence of fire begins to release wet steam, which condenses on the walls of the stove structure and on the chimney.

  • This, firstly, threatens that all structures immediately become dirty.
  • Secondly, the heat removal channels narrow.
  • Thirdly, this process produces acid, which corrodes everything. So the service life of the furnace is sharply reduced.

I would like to touch on a topic that relates to the question: what kind of firewood is best for heating? Everyone understands perfectly well that such an indicator as wood density plays an important role. The denser it is, the longer it burns and the more thermal energy it releases. Below is a table that compares tree species according to the way they burn in terms of the release of thermal energy, depending on the volume of fuel used.

When the required temperature is reached, you will have to use oak firewood least of all, and aspen wood most of all. It was already mentioned above that there is optimal size firewood that ensures maximum combustion. So, experts in this matter claim that the cross-section of one log should be 80-100 mm.

Dry firewood

Furnace firing process

  1. Before any kindling, it is necessary to clean the grate and the compartment where ash from burnt wood falls. This will ensure normal flow fresh air through the blower into the combustion chamber.
  2. Now you need to properly stack the firewood. We have sorted out what kind of firewood is best to heat a bathhouse, but no less important point, how to stack them correctly so that they all burn to the end, while releasing the maximum amount of thermal energy. There are two options: you can lay them in a row or in a cage. It is important here that there is a small distance between the logs, within 8-10 mm. These gaps allow oxygen to penetrate and maintain the combustion process.
  3. Pay attention to the height of the stacked firewood. The structure being constructed must be at least 20 cm below the ceiling of the combustion chamber. This will allow the fuel to burn in the firebox and not transfer the flame to the chimney. The main essence of the process of burning wood is burning it in a firebox, from which heat spreads throughout all structures.
  4. At the very bottom of the structure being laid, it is necessary to place paper or dry small wood chips. With their help it will be easier to ignite. You cannot use kerosene, gasoline, diesel fuel, etc. Please note that the flames of the fire should spread from all sides of the fire.
  5. If the stove has not been used for a long time, it will smoke heavily when igniting wood. Therefore, the advice is to first light a small fire in a firebox using small branches, paper and wood chips. It is necessary to warm up the chimney. After which you can gradually add logs of larger cross-section to this fire.
  6. Try to place the stowage directly in the center of the firebox, but not closer to back wall. Possibly closer to the stove door.

Wood stove design

The design of a wood-burning stove has several devices that can be used to regulate the fuel combustion process and ensure correct and uniform ignition. There are only four of them: two doors from the blower and from the firebox, a valve on the chimney and a view on the boundaries of the combustion chamber and the chimney. The first two regulate the supply of fresh air, the last two regulate the draft. So, in order to properly light the stove, you need to close the ash door and open the firebox door. In this case, all the dampers (view and slide) open. As soon as the wood burns well, you need to close the firebox door and open the ash chamber.

By adjusting the furnace draft, you can create the maximum the right conditions, at which the fuel will burn efficiently. How to determine that wood is burning correctly (this again comes to the question of how to properly heat a Russian stove with wood)?

  • If the color of the flame is white, and also noise is heard in the outlet channels, it is necessary to close the ash door. Because this is an indicator of strong cravings.
  • If the flame has acquired a red tint and black smoke is pouring out of the chimney, this means that the draft is too low. We'll have to open the vent slightly.
  • Optimal combustion – yellow flame.

Wood stove in the house

There are several significant nuances that affect the quality of a wood stove.

  1. Do not touch the wood until it is half burned. After that you can stir them up.
  2. It is best to collect burnt coals in the center of the firebox floor, surrounding them with burning wood and coals. In this case, it is best to close the blower door or valve.
  3. If the fuel in the firebox goes out, this indicates that carbon monoxide has formed inside. Why? Because the firewood was not dry. And here many people have a question: what to do and how to heat the stove with raw wood? It's better if you don't use them at all. But if this happens, then close the combustion chamber door and fully open the view and valve. Keep the oven in this position for 10-15 minutes. During this time, carbon monoxide should completely disappear. Now open the door and flaps slightly.
  4. Never turn on the stove at night. God saves man, who save himself.

Wood burning stove made of bricks

Dry firewood ─ important detail successful firing of any, even the most obstinate stove. They flare up quickly, providing a stable flame. All that remains is to add new logs and stir up the resulting coals. But for some reason, dry firewood may not always be available, and wet firewood contains too much moisture and will not ignite. Using flammable liquids such as gasoline or kerosene for ignition is not always effective and is very dangerous. How to light a stove with raw wood?

Simple solutions

The algorithm of actions depends on the following factors:

  • type of wood;
  • availability special means for ignition;
  • stove location.

Damp aspen does not burn, but “melts,” and does not emit sufficient heat to dry the wood chips. Firewood from coniferous species They ignite more easily because they contain resins and essential oils. Birch burns best in its raw form, although it also requires time to ignite.

One of the options for solving the problem is to buy some dry firewood in addition to wet firewood, and mix the heat in the stove. You can light a fire using wood chips cut from dry logs.

How to heat with raw wood? You need to do the following:

  • pinch a splinter from the middle part of the raw firewood and fold it in the form of a hut, with the larger one on top and the smaller one inside;
  • If you have birch firewood, remove the birch bark from it and use it to light a flame.

In this case, thin wood chips or birch bark dry out a little, and when ignited they create heat, under the influence of which the moisture from the firewood gradually evaporates and they ignite without even drying completely.

Nuances of ignition

To light the stove, you can use dry alcohol in tablets or large table salt. Two or three handfuls of it are enough to ignite the wood.

To avoid facing the same problem the next day, you need to chop several logs as small as possible and dry them on the stove after heating the stove.

A few armfuls, enough for a day or two, can be stored in the room. By constantly renewing your fuel supply, you can temporarily get rid of the problem of damp firewood. Don't neglect correct installation woodpiles. In severe frosts, this will help the wood get rid of moisture faster.

However, it is not advisable to constantly use such fuel. When raw wood burns, steam is generated, which passes through the stove channels and settles on them. Drops of moisture mix with soot and gradually contribute to the destruction of the chimney. Using dry wood as fuel for the stove will help avoid this.

Instructions

At the end summer season inspect the oven and chimney for the presence of cracks and crevices between bricks. If it is whitewashed, then they are very easy to identify by the marks on the whitewash. Cover small cracks clay mortar, seal large cracks with clay with the addition of crushed stone. Thoroughly clean the stove and chimney of ash and soot. Don't leave the dampers closed; if they freeze, you risk jamming or breaking them when you open them.

Prepare firewood in advance. Deciduous trees are preferred - birch, oak, aspen. Place them in a place well protected from rain and snow and dry for 1-2 years. If you heat the stove with damp wood, a significant part of the heat (from 30 to 50%) will be spent on evaporating the liquid and will be lost, and the resulting condensate will begin to destroy the chimney. Chop the logs into pieces approx. same size(thickness 5-10 cm, length 5-10 cm smaller sizes stove firebox). Store firewood in the house for 2 days of burning so that residual moisture has time to evaporate.

After an hour, add a few more logs. You need to add them in the first hour, when the coals from the old firewood are already breaking. Place new logs into the firebox closer to the door.


If after 2 hours the coals are scarlet, close the valve halfway. You can close it completely only when all the carbon monoxide has left the firebox. This is easy to determine - stir the coals, if a blue-green glow appears - it is too early to close the valve.


In case of heavy kindling, remove all coals from the firebox and close the valve. And have an easy day.

Video on the topic

It would seem that what could be easier than lighting a stove? However, there are recommendations that will allow you to get maximum efficiency, and also enjoy pleasant moments at home.

Instructions

The success of lighting a stove depends on many factors: the design itself, the location of the stove, the type of fuel and its quantity, as well as simple skill.

So, before you put firewood in the firebox, you first need to clear the grate and ash pan of ash so that air flows evenly to all burning wood. This is done by removing the ash from the ash pit with a poker. The firewood itself must be absolutely dry, with the same diameter of 8-10 cm. It is best to use birch or oak firewood for the stove. Place them in the firebox so that there is at least 20 cm of space between the firebox ceiling and yourself. To prevent the firebox from cooling, add all the firewood immediately before ignition, so as not to constantly open the firebox door.

Of course, you can only heat with the fuel provided by the stove. That is, if it does not provide for kindling coal, then in no case should it be heated with coal. Therefore, it is better initially or a furnace that can work on different types solid fuel. The most effective is anthracite. When burned, a kilogram of this fuel releases 7200 Kcal. Hard coal up to 7000 Kcal, brown coal and briquette peat - 4000-4500 Kcal, lump peat - 3000 and firewood emit the least amount of heat - 2800-3000 kilocalories per kilogram. But firewood is the most environmentally friendly clean look fuel. In addition, its heat transfer depends on the degree of drying. Dry firewood can provide up to 4500 Kcal, while 50% firewood is only 2000 Kcal.

If you burn with coal, then keep in mind that the heat transfer of coal dust is no less than that of large pieces, so load it into the firebox in 1-2 bags along with large pieces of coal. If all the coal is very fine, you can bake the stove as follows: place a piece of wide tin pipe on the grate. Place short pieces of wood on the bottom, pieces of coal on top, and compact wet, fine coal around the pipe. Then the pipe is carefully removed and the stove is flooded.

Regardless of the type of fuel, it is necessary to regulate the flow of oxygen through the blower into the firebox, as well as the yoke in the pipe itself using a view. When the stove is lit, the view and the ash are open. If the firewood is well lit, the ash door is left slightly open so that not too much air comes in, otherwise all the heat will fly away during kindling. Close the view only when the blue flame continues to hover above the layer of smoldering coals. This is a sure sign that carbon monoxide is no longer dangerous.

Video on the topic

Russian bake- an integral part of folk culture. In the old days, in every hut she was the wet nurse, maintaining warmth and comfort during the harsh Russian winter. Even in the 21st century, people, if they did not use brick stove, then you definitely saw her in your favorite cartoons and fairy tales.

You will need

  • Dry birch firewood is best suited for lighting a Russian stove, as it smokes less but warms up the room better. To light firewood you need birch bark or wood chips.

Instructions

Place dry wood in the stove. Make them a “house”: alternate parallel laying of firewood. Place two logs parallel along the mouth of the stove, place the next log across the previous ones. You can stack the rest of the firewood on it, parallel to the first two. The unfolded “house” is a stable structure of firewood. If it is difficult for you to lean far into the stove, place the firewood using a gardener - a special wooden shovel.

Take a large log and remove the birch bark from it. Place it under the bottom log of the “house”, in the middle of the structure. If you are not using birch firewood and do not have birch bark, place wood chips and paper under the “house”. Such lightweight materials flare up quickly and help ignite the wood.

To ensure that the smoke from the stove escapes into the chimney and does not poison the room, before igniting the Russian stove, completely open the views (latches) located in the chimney.

Insert a burning match or splinter as far as possible under the “house” of firewood and set fire to the birch bark. To make the fire start better, set fire to the birch bark in several places.

While the wood is burning, you can use a grab handle to place cast iron in the mouth of the stove for cooking.

After the wood burns out, you need to remove the coals and ash from the stove. Open the “burners” inside the stove and use a poker to pour coals into it. They will end up at the bottom of the stove - underground, from where they can then be completely removed.

After this, you can place baking sheets and baking trays inside the oven. bakery products. They will be cooked without fire, since the heat inside the Russian stove will remain for a long time, sufficient for baking bread. After placing the baking trays, close the mouth of the oven with a barrier so that the heat does not escape outside.

When you remove the coals from the crawl space, cover the vents to keep the hot air inside the stove and warm the room.

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Helpful advice

The heat of a Russian stove is used to treat radiculitis. Once you have poured the coals into the underground, you can climb into the mouth of the stove and warm your body with the heat emanating from the heated bricks.

The ash remaining after burnt firewood is useful as a natural fertilizer for plants. Just sprinkle it on the beds, and the soil in the garden will become more fertile.

The bathhouse can be safely called the place where you can put not only your body, but also your soul in complete order. How nice it is to get together with friends after a hard week at work and take a steam bath with a birch broom in a Russian bathhouse. To an inexperienced person it may seem that heating a bathhouse is difficult task. In fact, everything is quite simple, you just need to follow some rules and recommendations.

You will need

  • - Broom,
  • - rag,
  • - dry birch firewood,
  • - matches,
  • - ladle

Instructions

Before you start heating the bathhouse, it must be put in complete order. Sweep and wash the floor in the steam room and prepare dry firewood. Birch trees are best suited for these purposes; they have a lot of advantages: they do not crackle or spark, they give much more heat than firewood made from other woods. Softwood firewood can emit bad smell and form soot.

First, put small firewood in the firebox, and then larger logs. You shouldn’t push them deep, leave the firewood in the area of ​​the grate, it will be more economical. Apply every thirty minutes required quantity firewood until the firebox is completely filled. Usually the stove is heated for 4-5 hours. Don't forget to open the damper, otherwise carbon monoxide and smoke will escape into the room. The duration of preparation of the steam room depends entirely on the quality of the firewood, the size of the bath and temperature conditions.

After the steam room has heated up to a temperature of 90 degrees, and only hot coals without a blue flame remain in the stove (blue fire means the release of carbon monoxide, do not close the damper until the blue flames die out completely), you can safely close the pipe and open it slightly door. The steam room should be slightly ventilated to remove foreign odors and carbon monoxide.

After ten minutes, close the door and wipe hot water all contaminated surfaces. Rinse the floor with cool water; this will create a temperature contrast between the lower and upper parts of the steam room.

Then you should warm up the ceiling and walls. To do this, just take a ladle, dial hot water and splash it on the stones. If desired, you can add a few drops to the water essential oil(at your discretion) or herbal decoction. To avoid spoiling the cozy bath atmosphere with excessive moisture, use the following: folk method: If the heat burns your ears while sitting on the shelf, you should no longer give in.

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The firebox of a real Russian bathhouse is a whole ritual that requires special and proper preparation. In order to take a steam bath and carry out all the bath procedures, you must first heat the room to the required temperature. A heater stove is used as a heater, which is heated with dry wood.

You will need

  • - firewood;
  • - paper;
  • - wood chips;
  • - matches;
  • - poker.

Instructions

Before starting to fire the stove, it is necessary to put the bathhouse and dressing room in complete order. Remove everything unnecessary items, which you will not need for washing, carefully sweep the floor, especially in the place where firewood is stored. There should be no soap residues or broom leaves in the bathhouse; this can be fraught with consequences. Also required wet cleaning walls and ceiling. After cleaning, thoroughly ventilate the room, open doors and windows.

Before putting firewood into the firebox, clean the ash chamber and grate from any remaining combustion products, so you can free up air access to the fuel. Otherwise, a furnace with a blower can turn into one with a blind hearth, and this is uneconomical. High humidity firewood impairs combustion, so they should be dried first.

Open the firebox door, the smoke window lid and the ash half-door completely. Light a match and determine the presence of traction. Tear off a few pieces of birch bark with a knife and stock up on a few crumpled sheets of newsprint. Select four or five completely dry logs, which should be the same size and thickness, and also match the dimensions of the firebox.

On the grate, place two thin logs parallel to each other with a gap of one palm. Fold a wad of paper between them and add a pile of wood chips. Secure the top of the pile with the remaining two logs, folding them diagonally. The pile of paper and wood chips should remain inside and not fall apart. Take two or three matches at once, light them and bring them to the paper. When it lights, close the firebox door to prevent smoke from entering the room.

Listen, without opening the door, whether after a few minutes the characteristic rather strong and even hum of the flame is present. If not, then you should start the kindling procedure from the very beginning. Cover the half-door slightly, as air is simply necessary for burning wood. Open the water boiler valve and close the damper chimney.

After ten minutes, use a poker to level the coals and load a portion of firewood of any thickness and size to two-thirds of the height of the firebox. The laying procedure is repeated in the same way for three hours in summer and five hours in winter. Monitor the water level in the boiler so that the process of adding firewood does not reduce the combustion temperature; do not wait until dull coals remain. Stir the coals and firebrands from time to time with a poker to ensure complete combustion.

Look into the firebox and make sure that the wood is completely burned out, the coals have turned red, and there are no blue flames (carbon monoxide) jumping through anywhere. If the steam room has heated up to 60-90 degrees, open the valve to the limit, close the ash door, make sure that the firebox door is tightly and securely closed. Open the door and windows, splash a ladle of water on the heater, floor, walls and benches. Close the door, close the windows after an hour. Now you can safely steam, adding water to the heater for more steam.

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Many residents of rural settlements are still forced to make do stove heating in the house. But the fuel consumption is high. And yet, by following some rules and tricks, you can save significantly on firewood and coal.

The stove should not be heated too much, but during severe frosts it is better to heat the stove twice a day - in the morning and in the evening.

When burning coal or peat, it is recommended to drill holes with a diameter of 10-15 mm in the smoke valve to remove gases accumulating in the stove. First, fire wood (2-3 kg) and burn it charcoal pour a layer of coal 50-60 mm thick. As soon as it flares up, a layer of approximately 150 mm is poured and the thickness of this layer is maintained throughout the fire.

To save fuel, fine coal is burned together with large pieces. You can mix fine coal with potato peels and wrap the mixture in newsprint in small packs.

When there is a shortage of coal or its low quality, briquettes are made, consisting of one part of fine coal or sawdust(preferably from a mixture of both equally), two parts sand and one and a half parts clay. The mixture is moistened with water and stirred until it becomes a thick dough. Round blocks are rolled out of it or bricks are made, they are dried until completely hardened in a dry room. The briquettes themselves cannot serve as fuel, but if you place 2-3 briquettes behind a pile of fire or coke near the wall, the fire will last longer and more heat will be emitted.

The largest fuel consumption in the house is on kitchen stoves, therefore, in order to avoid unnecessary waste of fuel, kitchen stove light the fire only when all the ingredients for cooking are ready.

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