Good afternoon, dear readers!
Examples of cues made in Shatov’s workshop
Thanks to a happy coincidence, the other day I was able to visit an amazing place - unique carpentry workshop, which exclusively produces billiard cues. And not just billiards, but Russian. And not just Kiev, but exclusive Kyiv self made . And in general, this is not an ordinary workshop, but a workshop of one of the best masters for the production of handmade cues in our country - workshop of Ivan Shatov.
workshop manager Ivan Shatov at work
The workshop team received me very warmly and shared with me all the intricacies of the cue making process with great pleasure. Alexey Shatov gave me a fascinating tour of the workshop. Today I will share this most valuable knowledge with you.
general form workshop 
master Alexey Shatov
The most important thing about a cue is the material from which it is made. The tree must meet many criteria: first of all, it must be both super strong and very flexible. In addition, handmade cues are true works of art, which is largely achieved through the use of several types of wood with different grain structures and colors. Due to such stringent requirements, the range of wood species used is quite limited and is represented mainly by exotic species. For example, the striking part of the cue (shaft) is in most cases made of hornbeam (density 750 kg/m3). The rest of the cue can be made from species such as rosewood, merbau, wenge, padouk, coco-bolo, ebony and even the heaviest wood in the world - snakewood (1400 kg/m3). The quality of workmanship, the combination of species and, ultimately, the beauty of the product depends entirely on the imagination and skills of the craftsman.
material for cues - bars valuable species
The wood is delivered to the workshop in the form of blank bars, which have previously undergone a long process of natural drying (for some species this period can reach a year or even more). Raw materials arrive in the workshop long before they are used: already dried bars must be aged for at least three months directly in the workshop before they are put into use - to establish the required humidity.
planer-thicknesser machine
First of all, a workpiece of the required size is made from a block. In this case, a high-precision planer-thicknesser machine is used. Due to the high density of the processed wood, the machine knives wear out several times faster than when processing soft wood. At the end of this stage, perfectly smooth workpieces measuring 30x30mm are obtained.
sawing out desired angle on a band saw
Next, the workpiece falls on band saw with the thinnest blades (0.35mm) - to ensure the cleanest possible cut. The photo shows that with the help of tsulagi ( special device), the cut occurs at a special, strictly specified angle. This angle itself is distinctive feature masters and each master has his own.
knives for finishing parts after band sawing
Despite thin blade, the band saw is not able to make a cut of the desired shape - at the end of the cut there will always be a right angle (step). To bring the cut to perfection, custom-made knives are used that have exactly the blade angle that is required.
final finishing hand tools
perfectly precise connection
Then, in the same way on band saw Similar elements are cut from other species or of a different size, depending on the master’s plan. After which the entire workpiece is placed in clamps for gluing. To merge elements into a single whole, it is used epoxy resin. Resin is better suited for this type of work than glue, since it has a longer setting time (about 30 minutes) - it is possible to accurately assemble the workpiece without rushing. In addition, PVA glue has some elasticity even after hardening, which is unacceptable for a cue, as it can give additional play. The resin after curing is completely monolithic.
the workpiece is clamped into the clamps during gluing
After the resin has completely hardened (after a week), the workpiece is prepared for the next stage - processing on a lathe.
workpiece before turning 
the workpiece is installed in the lathe
One of the key stages is selection required quantity lead for the cue handle. The cue is balanced in a special way. Often, when making a cue to order, the customer has wishes, including the required weight of the cue.
lead rod
Final grinding is done exclusively by hand on a special homemade abrasive stand. Painting is carried out at the request of the customer: it can be varnished or natural oil, which is the most popular at the moment.
devices for final manual polishing of cues
There was also room in the workshop for a machine with CNC program control. It has a cutter for carving and a laser for burning. It is mainly used to apply the master's mark to an almost finished cue.
CNC machine 
examples of works from Shatov's workshop
I express my gratitude to the workshop team for an excellent opportunity to get acquainted with the process of making cues, the workshop itself and the finished products!
Dear readers, tomorrow you will find the most exciting part of the report - photographs finished works Shatov's workshop. Who can't wait for tomorrow, look now at
It started a long time ago and continues to this day. Today this game has reached a new level of popularity and the number of its adherents. Therefore, more and more clubs and communities are appearing that practice billiards, train beginners, and also organize tournaments different levels, including international ones. All players, without exception, want success in the game and high achievements, but skill alone is not enough. Very often a cue is made to order that will help you achieve your goal.
How and from what is a cue made?
The pleasure of playing billiards, as well as our success, largely depend on the correctly selected cue. Therefore, in order to choose a cue that will show your professionalism, you should take this process very seriously. The cue is very important in billiards because if it is correct, an experienced player can easily win. Therefore, this necessary attribute for playing billiards must have excellent qualities.
It is no secret that how a cue is made, as well as from what material, determine its properties and final quality, and therefore its purpose. It must be hard enough to make strong and sharp shots, and also flexible, this is very important in billiards. Hard and soft rocks natural wood, as well as various alloys, allow you to combine these qualities. Materials for making this important attribute for playing billiards are easy to find, but their price is quite high.
How they do it billiard cue? First of all, the valuable wood species from which it is made are carefully selected and processed. They should not have cracks or knots, and must be well dried. For production, wood species with high density and elasticity are used. Basically, cues are made from valuable wood. These are rosewood, buckout, colobolo, wenge, snakewood, black and white tree. The most expensive material is ebony. All these types of wood have very high hardness. In order to add the necessary flexibility to the product, pine or mahogany is usually used.
Quite often, the tip of the cue, which must be dense and resistant to impacts, is made from hornbeam. When making a cue, pay attention Special attention for even distribution of its weight. This is what helps you hit the balls accurately. During manufacturing, the shape, design, size, as well as the ability to fold (very convenient for frequent moves) are taken into account. For a long time, cues have been made from two or more types of wood. The wood is assembled into them using cuts, which at the final stage are folded into a certain pattern. Therefore, the following models are classified according to the type of cuts and their number:
- crown- the most expensive and difficult to produce. This type of cue is made using special, expensive equipment and equipment. The construction and design of the crown cut are of several types: four-feather long crowns, four-feather regular crowns, as well as a rare and complex crown cut on the crown. These are the main types, but there are other varieties. Such products have very high density. Gaming characteristics at a high level;
- Viennese or classic washed down, has the widest distribution. All workshops make cues with this type of cut. Most often, it is the Viennese cut that becomes the first work of a novice master. Different craftsmen have different feather angles, and this is the most important characteristic. Most players and craftsmen agree that this simple type of cut is the best for a billiard cue;
- tulip. It is one of the variations of the classic feather pen. How to make a tulip cue? When gluing, the classic Viennese cut is combined in a special way, and the result is a tulip cut. This product is characterized by high density. Due to the labor-intensive process, as well as the high consumption of wood, the price of such models is quite high.
A good cue is the key to a successful game
You don't have to use the most expensive cue to enjoy playing billiards. We already know how a cue is made, so it is always possible to choose a model good quality"by hand", from good stuff and not spend it a large amount. To maintain its characteristics and ensure its durability, you should definitely purchase care products.
The accuracy of a shot in billiards takes years to perfect. In order to comprehend the fascinating science of playing billiards, professional players systematically train in friendly tournaments and fights. Billiards in Melitopol is a great way to take a break from the worries and bustle of the city, have a great time, chat with friends and enjoy the atmosphere of this interesting game.
Hold the cue at hip level with your dominant hand. Grasp the mark on the cue with one hand, closer to the far part of it. There's usually symbol. Grab your hand approximately 10.2 to 12.7 cm from the end of the cue. Ideally, the hand further away should form a 90-degree angle with the cue.
- Most beginners grip the cue too tightly. Keep the cue relaxed, but control the process.
- Your body should be in line with the cue ball. This will help you aim correctly for your shot.
- Hold the cue with your thumb and forefinger, you can use the middle one if you want to give more force to the blow.
Lean lower towards the table. When you take the cue in your dominant hand and choose right place To hit, you should lean lower on the table so that you can look straight down the cue line at the billiard ball. You won't get a good shot if you stand up straight and are tense.
- Relax your legs and spread them a little, at least ten centimeters.
Make an open position with your other hand. Place your other hand on the table 15-20 cm from the cue ball. The closer you are to the ball, the more accurate your shot will be. When your hand is on the table, you should place a cradle on it so that this allows you to balance the cue on your hand and make shots. Of course, certain types of stops are more or less suitable for different situations. It’s best to start by familiarizing yourself with the most common type of stop – the open stop:
- To begin, place your hand on the table and spread your fingers.
- Place the cue between the phalanges of the index and middle fingers in the V-shaped space created.
- You can adjust the height of the cue tip by raising or lowering your hand.
- This will allow the cue to slide as you aim to hit the ball.
Hold the cue steady while you aim. Lean forward and mentally place the tip of the cue on the spot on the cue ball that you will hit. Hitting techniques Right place You will improve the ball for more accurate scoring later. Ideally, you want to hit the cue ball in the center or the sweet spot to get the ball to roll where you want it to.
- You should see a straight line between the cue ball and the object ball (the ball you want to pocket).
Hold the cue with the longitudinal center of gravity in mind and make the shot. Carefully slide the cue forward while keeping your aim clear. If you're not entirely sure of your shot, gently move the cue back and forth across your open fence to get a feeling of confidence and balance before making your shot. Remember that you need to hit the ball, not push it. Follow through with the punch, continuing the movement a little after you've completed the kick.
- Let your body remain low to the table until the end of the stroke.
- Keep your cue relaxed and free. Don't squeeze it too hard during impact. If the compression is too tight, the cue may break and change the direction of your shot.
- Hold the cue with your hand on the outside and support it thumb. This will provide better control. Use the thumb, index and middle fingers of your other hand to hold the cue in the desired position.
How to straighten a cue
Let's take a strong board, the cue is attached to it first with the thick end using a strong rope. At the place of the curvature (we determined it in advance by rolling the cue on a flat surface), place a spacer (for example, a simple pencil) between the board and the cue. Let's pull the second end of the cue to the board. We do not pay attention to the fact that the bend is decent. It should be 2-3 times larger (and, naturally, directed in the opposite direction) than the curvature itself. Let's adjust this by the thickness of the spacer.
The second method of straightening the cue.
We use a professional hair dryer for these purposes. We set the temperature to the maximum (>400 degrees), but heat the wood to 50-60 degrees (possibly more, but you have to be careful, the wood may burn), so as not to burn the wood, you need to “move” the nozzle and maintain a distance. The heating distance is up to 10 cm, the frequency of scanning the cue surface increases as the distance decreases. As a rule, only the convex side is subject to heating, but with significant coverage of the areas adjacent to the convexity.
We focus heating on the convexity. In this case, the convexity is mechanically pressed between two support points and warms up for 1.5-2 minutes. If the cue is dismountable, then you need to edit each part separately. Mark the convex side with a pencil. We take an old shoe, rest one end on it, and the other on the floor (preferably not a pile carpet, so as not to burn it), press it next to the bulge and warm it up. Next, place it on the surface and rotate again. When everything comes together, you need to do important operation- relieve tension in the tree. To do this, take a “cloth” or a flap of flannel and vigorously rub the entire shaft (or cue) until it is evenly heated; this cannot be done with a hairdryer. We check on the plane. If there is curvature, we need to repeat everything until we achieve the desired result.
How to make a sticker
Let's take leather (thick from old boots, for example), sand it with sandpaper to make it thinner, then chop it or cut it with scissors, degrease it with Acetone and coat it with instant glue, glue it again and fold it into layers, and into your device, and tighten it with nuts even more tightly.
According to the experiences of some craftsmen, after several months of playing with a 4-layer sticker, no fundamental differences were found from a cheap store-bought sticker, and the 6-layer one turned out to be softer. Factory stickers have a rounded shape, but homemade ones turned out flat and therefore the ball vented a little worse; you can make a small rounded depression in the lower part so that the sticker takes pressure the required form As for the glue, it turns out that you only need a little bit of it; the layers stick together well under pressure even without glue.
