To avoid cluttering your summer cottage or house premises gardening tools, you can build a frame shed with your own hands. It will become a convenient place for storing various household equipment. It is not very difficult to build such a building, the main thing is to follow the technology.
Construction of a shed begins with determining the location. The shed should not be conspicuous; it is better to place it in the backyard. The approach to this building must be made as free as possible in order to bring in or take out large objects and materials: watering containers, gas-powered tools, etc.
Width front door calculated based on dimensions garden wheelbarrow, which may have to be rolled inside the building. It is better to build a barn on a small hill, this will protect the building from melt water, which can wash away the foundation and destroy the entire structure.
Barn on a small hill
You can build an auxiliary structure from any lumber: boards, timber or OSB boards. The foundation can be used of any type - columnar, strip, monolithic or prefabricated.
Barn maybe various shapes– square or rectangular, with pitched roof or ridge type. There are also no special problems with roofing; corrugated sheets, ordinary slate or roofing felt are suitable if finances are limited. Colored colors will help bring the building to life. roofing material. Now you can find both corrugated sheets and slate on sale various colors and shades.
2 Calculation of material for a shed measuring 3x6 meters
First you need to draw up a construction plan or diagram, which will help you more accurately calculate the quantity required material. A correctly drawn up building plan will allow you to take into account all the nuances of construction, so that during the work you do not have to purchase additional materials. When purchasing timber and boards, pay attention to their humidity, which should not be more than 22%. Also, the wood cannot have large knots, blue stains, or traces of wood-boring beetles.
To make a frame shed you will need the following structures:
- Bottom and top harness. For this you need a beam with a cross section of 100 by 100 mm. Six 6-meter pieces and eight 3-meter bars.
- The flooring is made from boards with a cross-section of 40x150 mm; at least 20 pieces are required; you can add more if necessary. For finishing coating it is better to use OSB boards s.
- Vertical supports - here you will need timber with a cross section of 100x100 mm, in the amount of 11 pieces, each 2.5 meters long, two of them for the doorway.
Vertical supports of a frame shed
To create a pitched roof slope, one of two is used possible methods. If the vertical posts of the frame are made of the same length, then on one side of the perimeter of the building they are built up with bars with a cross-section of 50x50 mm, of which 4 pieces are required. According to another method, when installing vertical posts on one side of the building, either higher beams or slightly shorter beams should be installed. When using any option, the roof slope will be ensured.
To make rafters, you will need a board with a cross-section of 50x100 mm in the amount of 4 pieces, each 4 meters long, taking into account the roof overhangs. The lathing is made from a board with a cross-section of 22x100mm, which will require approximately half a cube. The rough ceiling is made from sheets of multilayer plywood, chipboard, fiberboard or OSB boards. The wind board is made of edged lumber with a cross-section of 25x100 mm. 6 boards of 3 meters each will be enough.
Boards with a section of 50x100 mm
The type of fastening depends on the thickness of the beam: the joint into a paw (half a tree) can be fixed with nails. The joint-to-butt connection is made with steel angles and strips. The work will also require self-tapping screws, screws, and L-shaped metal plates for fastening the timber at the corners. The main fastening element will be nails various sizes. They are selected such a length that when driven into two boards being connected from the outside, the tip should extend 1.5–2 cm from the back side. This connection will be more reliable.
All wooden elements buildings are treated with an antiseptic, which extends their service life. It is best to apply the protective composition in two layers.
3 Foundation construction
You can't build a shed without a good foundation. A strip foundation will reliably protect the structure from moisture and give it strength. In this case, the floor of the barn will rise relative to the ground level by 40–50 cm.
First, the foundation is marked on the ground, which will require pegs and a strong thin cord. Then a ditch is prepared with a depth of 40–50 cm and a width of about 30 cm. A sand cushion is poured onto the cleared and leveled bottom (it needs to be moistened and compacted a little), and polyethylene is laid on top so that the cement laitance does not absorb into the sand, thereby reducing the strength of the concrete .
Marking the foundation of the shed on the ground
After this, formwork is installed along the edge of the trench, with a height in accordance with the size of the base. In the upper part of the formwork, spacers are installed between its walls so that the boards do not move apart under the weight of the concrete. Next, a reinforcement cage is laid throughout the trench, where the rods are connected to each other with steel wire.
For pouring, grade 200 or 250 cement, crushed stone or pebbles, sand and water are used. Experts recommend pouring the foundation without long breaks in work, so that air voids do not form. It is better not to start work during rain, as concrete mixture will become liquid. Such concrete will take much longer to dry, and its strength may decrease. After 3-4 weeks, you can begin work on the construction of a frame shed.
They begin constructing the basement part when the concrete poured into the formwork gains the necessary strength, after which the formwork is dismantled. First, roofing material is spread on the concrete, which will act as waterproofing. Several rows of red brick are laid along it. Don't forget to re-bandage the seams in the brickwork. In the top row along the entire perimeter of the building in brickwork are laid wooden blocks every one and a half meters, onto which the beam of the lower trim will subsequently be attached.
Pouring the foundation of a barn
When installing the plinth, it is necessary to use a building level, keeping the masonry horizontal. If the horizontality of the basement part is violated, the frame of the shed will skew and build reliable design will not work. Having laid out the basement level and cleaned all the seams from mortar build-up, leave the structure for a couple of days to harden. After this, you can begin installing the frame elements.
4 Assembling the frame of the barn
First, roofing material is again laid on top of the plinth to protect the timber from moisture. It is better to put two layers of roofing felt and only then proceed with the installation of the lower trim.
For this purpose, timber with a section of 100x100 is used. The joints at the corners need to be made into a “claw”. At each end of the beam, a recess is made equal to half its thickness. The length of the cutout according to the cross-section of the timber will be 100 mm. This way, when connecting, you will get an even angle. If necessary, the junction of two beams can be worked with a chisel. The strapping beam is attached to the embedded wooden parts in the base with nails. Be sure to drive them in obliquely and check that the timber is laid horizontally.
The next stage of building a barn is installing the floor. Here you need boards with a section size of 50x100 mm, which will serve as logs. They are placed on the edge, resting on the beam of the lower trim, in increments of 60 cm. They are fastened with nails of the appropriate size. To make further work more convenient, you can assemble a subfloor from plywood or any old boards. Afterwards, if necessary, they can be dismantled or filled with other material. When the base is ready and you can move on it without the risk of falling, the installation of the vertical elements of the shed frame begins.
Construction of the floor of a frame barn
For vertical racks you also need a beam, the cross-section of which will correspond to the dimensions 100x100 mm. It is attached from the side to the bottom trim using L-shaped metal fasteners or 150 mm nails using an oblique face. The distance between installed racks is at least 1.5 meters. For reliability, they are fixed diagonally with temporarily installed boards with a cross-section of 40x100 mm.
Intermediate vertical posts are additionally secured with jibs so that their verticality is not disturbed. After installing the top trim, they can be removed.
The location of the vertical posts for mounting the door frame depends on where it will be located and on its type. If a single leaf door is selected, there are two ways to attach the supports:
- You can save a little on material by installing one stand. The second will serve as a corner vertical beam.
- If the entrance is in the middle, then two additional racks are installed.
Installation of a frame barn door frame
After measuring, the top strip is nailed to the height of the opening so that it is at the level of the top of the window blocks, for which the seat is prepared in the same way.
5 Roofing and wall cladding
To install a pitched roof, one side of the shed must be raised to a slope not exceeding 25°. Then the rafters are installed. The material is boards with a cross section of 50x100 mm, installed on the edge. In a structure with a pitched roof, the rafters are fastened with iron staples or nails, which are driven in using the “sloping face” method.
Installation of a pitched roof for a frame barn
Then the sheathing is installed. It can be sparse or continuous, it all depends on the type of roofing material chosen. For waterproofing, roofing felt or other modern membrane materials are laid, and after that the roofing material is installed.
The frame can be sheathed with any material, but usually corrugated sheets or planed boards are used. You can also use clapboard, but this option will be a little more expensive.
6 Metal or plastic shed
This is a new development in the field of construction for the rapid construction of utility blocks and auxiliary premises in summer cottages. All parts are packed in compact boxes, so they can be delivered quickly and conveniently to your location.
Advantages of ready-made frame structures:
- You can build a shed in a short time
- Practicality in maintenance. The building does not require maintenance.
- You will not need to do such work as treating purchased lumber with an antiseptic solution or updating the appearance of the shed with paint every year. All you need to do with such a new design is to periodically wash it with water from a hose.
- For assembly, you do not need to prepare a foundation; a compacted base, where a sand-gravel mixture or crushed stone can be used, is suitable.
Ready frame construction plastic shed
In general, the construction of a frame utility block is a simple procedure. It is important to calculate everything in advance and remember that, according to the existing law, it can be built in a place that is located at a distance of no less than 3 meters from the neighboring plot and 5 meters from the extreme line of the road. Everything else is up to you.
The 3x6 shed is one of the most popular formats. I have already published one report on the construction of a 3 by 6 meter shed, now I decided to add another one. This time a barn with a pitched roof.
Let's start with the foundation. Since the site is located on the banks of the Mother Volga (the upper layer of earth, and below it is river sand), I decided to pour a concrete foundation. I dug eight holes 600x600x600 mm. He mixed the concrete and poured it into the finished holes. I installed reinforcement in the concrete (vertically upward) so that I could then attach the platform for the shed to it.
I made the platform out of brick - laid out the brickwork, measured it level the next day and added it where needed cement mortar so that it is even.
Once dry, I began to assemble the lower frame of the shed.
For this, a board 50x200x6000 mm was used. The vertical posts of the frame are made of 50×100 mm boards. Here is a photo of the finished shed frame:
As for the roof: a 6 by 3 barn required 8 rafters. I took rafters 50x150x5000 mm. Cuts are made on the rafters and fastened to the frame with nails. You can also attach metal corners, but it seemed more convenient. Here is the diagram for fastening the rafters:
Here's a closer photo of the rafters:
I did not do any lathing, since the roof is galvanized 2500 mm. The roof took 2 sheets of galvanized steel with a slight overlap.
Shed paneling from edged boards 25x150 mm. The overlap is about 2.5cm. Fastened with galvanized nails 90mm. I decided to paint the board right away, before covering it. It seemed easier this way. And when the board dries, the unpainted areas will not be visible.
At the front of the barn, I first tried on the door, then began to plank it.
If anyone is interested, I painted it with Azure paint, impregnation V33. Bought in Leroy, it took about fifteen liters for the shed. I applied 2 layers. The paint seems to be good.
And here are the final photos of the 6 by 3 meter shed:
The construction of the shed took about a week of leisurely work. The barn stood fine over the winter, no problems were found.
It is difficult to imagine a country house or dacha without outbuildings. Gardening tools, summer swings, hammocks and folding furniture are stored in the sheds; farm animals and poultry can also be housed here, hay and feed can be stored. As a rule, outbuildings are constructed from materials that remain after the construction of the house. The owner can only choose a drawing of the barn, decide on its size and roof structure.
Barn construction
The most optimal size for an outbuilding is 3x6 meters. This area is enough even for the construction summer shower and a toilet inside the building, and you can also arrange a summer kitchen here.
You can make a drawing of a shed using photos found on the Internet, or come up with your own original shed, and then transfer the idea to paper. It is not recommended to build even the simplest buildings without a drawing. After all, all the dimensions and inconsistencies will become visible on paper.
The roofs of barns are most often made pitched. A flat roof retains too much precipitation and snow masses and requires careful waterproofing. Roofs complex shape They are also inappropriate for sheds, because this building is not intended to decorate the site, but to serve for household needs.
The optimal solution for a shed would be a pitched roof. Unlike a gable roof, there is no need to install a ridge; you will need half as many rafters. It is easier to assemble a pitched roof, and precipitation and snow disappear from it very quickly, without threatening the waterproofing.
Important! The angle of inclination of a pitched roof should be greater than 18 degrees. Such a slope will allow precipitation to freely leave the roof and protect the structure from winds and cold.
The optimal value of the pitched roof angle is 18-25 degrees.
The walls of an outbuilding can be erected from absolutely any materials, it can be:
- brick;
- foam concrete or aerated concrete;
- boards;
- plywood or MDF mounted on a wooden frame (frame type building).
Shed made of foam blocks
If you need to buy materials for building a shed, it is better to opt for foam concrete. Porous blocks have many advantages over other building materials:
- do not burn;
- do not absorb moisture;
- are light in weight;
- There are several standard sizes, from which it is easy to choose the best option for a small building;
- have higher strength and heat capacity than bricks;
- can allow air to pass through no worse than wooden walls;
- absolutely safe and non-toxic.
Despite the lightness of foam blocks, it is imperative to build a foundation for the shed. Considering the size of the building (3x6) and the weight of the structures, it is better to choose a foundation belt type. For stable, dry soils, a columnar base is also suitable.
A strip foundation for a small outbuilding is poured to a depth of about 40-60 cm, and it is necessary to take into account the depth of soil freezing on the site in winter.
The ground at the site chosen for construction is cleared of debris, roots and vegetation. They mark the perimeter of the barn and dig a trench for the strip foundation.
A “cushion” of sand, crushed stone and gravel is poured into the bottom of the trench and compacted thoroughly. Now you need to secure the formwork for the foundation from old boards, plywood or slate. Metal reinforcement is installed inside the boxes, which should strengthen the foundation.
Concrete is poured. The solution is pierced in several places with a metal pin, ridding the foundation of excess air. Now you need to leave the foundation for several weeks so that the concrete can gain the necessary strength.
Once the concrete has dried, you can begin building the walls. First lay out the bottom belt.
Attention! Blocks or bricks of the bottom row must be placed on a layer of waterproofing. The strip foundation is covered with a layer of roofing material or coated with bitumen mastic so that moisture from the concrete does not get onto the walls of the barn.
In accordance with the building drawing, the walls are laid out, making window and door openings. The outbuilding box made of foam blocks is ready.
Wooden barn
Much more often it turns out that the owner has leftover wood, and he decides to build a wood shed. For such work, at least minimal carpentry skills are required, because you will have to work with both a saw and a plane.
A building made of wood weighs very little; a columnar foundation can serve as its base. To do this, markings are made on the site, transferring the perimeter of the future building to the ground.
Posts are installed at the corners of the barn. Several more supports should be located in the center of the rectangle. The distance between the supports is 80-120 cm (depending on the size of the shed and the type of soil on the site).
The depth of the supports depends on the level of soil freezing in the construction region; on average, it is 40-60 cm. After the trenches for the supports are dug or drilled, wooden formwork is installed in them, a sand and gravel “cushion” is filled in, and metal reinforcement is laid.
Now you need to pour the concrete. After 5-6 days, when the foundation has hardened, you can dismantle the formwork and begin building walls.
First, you need to make the bottom frame of the building from timber. Before laying the wood, the foundation supports are covered with a double layer of roofing material. At the corners, the timber is connected with metal brackets and checked for level.
Install vertical supports in the corners of the barn, always checking the level. They are fixed with temporary spacers. Taking into account door and window openings The entire frame of the shed is assembled from wooden beams.
After assembling the frame, they begin covering the walls. This can be done with boards, moisture-resistant plywood or other sheet material.
Important! Before building a shed, wood must be treated with antiseptic agents to prevent it from rotting. To protect against fire, fire retardants are used, which are also impregnated with beams and boards.
Installation of a barn roof
Assembling a shed roof with your own hands step by step consists of the following steps:
Advice! Sheds with a pitched roof must be inspected after each winter: defects, leaks, and damp wood must be identified and eliminated.
Photos of finished sheds will help you decide on the type of construction and size of the utility room. But most owners of suburban areas and summer cottages choose small outbuildings, with parameters of 3x6 meters. And the roofs are made pitched; this design is easier to implement, cheaper and performs well in operation.
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The first building to appear on the new summer cottage- this is, of course, a barn, large and roomy. At first, until the bare territory of the dacha is “overgrown” with full-fledged outbuildings, a house, a summer kitchen and a garage, a simple shed with a pitched roof will for a long time remain the only shelter for equipment, building materials and country property.
Which type of shed to choose for your summer cottage?
Depending on the plans for the future development of the suburban area, the availability of free time and money, the problem of utility room on a suburban area can be solved in several ways:
- Hire a team and build a permanent shed from brick or foam block, with a pitched roof and a basement;
- Pour a concrete foundation for the future building with your own hands, buy a five-ton railway container and install it on your summer cottage instead of a barn;
- Build an ordinary barn with a pitched roof, 3x6 in size, from timber and boards, as in the photo.
Of course, experienced summer residents with experience will without hesitation cast their votes in favor of the last option; this is the most balanced and thoughtful decision.
Advice! To immediately build a shed from foam blocks on a “clean” site is not correct from a planning point of view; often outbuildings of this type have to be demolished or moved in favor of a summer house or garage.
In addition, the construction of stone, prefabricated, panel sheds, as well as the purchase of a container, will require an order of magnitude greater investment and time than is necessary for a wooden building with a pitched roof and a simple foundation. The main thing is that, at considerable expense, there are no tangible advantages over a lean-to wooden shed measuring 3x6.
Optimal design of a 3x6 wooden shed
The most difficult element homemade shed is its roof. Choose a pitched roof for your shed, you can’t go wrong. Even experienced craftsmen They prefer to put pitched roofs on barns; they are not so beautiful, but easier to build and more reliable in operation. Moreover, you can make a shed roof with your own hands step by step even with minimal construction experience.
The only one prerequisite is the correct orientation of the shed roof and the entire shed building relative to the wind rose in order to reduce the risk of rainwater flowing under the upper overhang and roof gables:
- The design of the barn, dimensions 3x6 m, with a pitched roof is shown in the drawing;
- The construction is carried out on a simple columnar foundation of 12 supports. A standard cinder block is used as the material for the pillars, but it is better to cast the supports from concrete in the formwork;
- The basis of a lean-to barn is a frame made of boards and timber, the dimensions of the building are 3x6 meters, with a ceiling height of 2 m and the most high point rafters 2.7 m;
- The pitched roof is made according to classic scheme, on hanging rafters with sheathing boards and flat roof. As roofing you can use corrugated sheets, ondulin, or make a two-layer version from roll material, for example, roofing felt.
The construction will be very simple and easy; if you assemble the foundation correctly, the wooden frame box with a pitched roof can easily withstand winds of 18-25 m/s. If there are no strong winds in the area in which the shed is planned to be installed, then when building walls you can limit yourself to vertical drains from boards and timber, as in the drawing. For open areas, it is recommended to strengthen the vertical load-bearing supports with side struts, as in the photo.
The same applies to the design of a pitched roof. For quiet areas, you can build a pitched roof without using beams ceiling, but in this case the upper frame of the walls and the mauerlat will need to be supported with additional vertical supports made of timber. For windy areas, a pitched roof must be reinforced with floor beams and supports in the middle of the rafters.
We build a barn with a pitched roof with our own hands
- For the frame, material with a cross section of 50x150mm - 14 pcs., 25x100 - 23 pcs., 50x100 - 19 pcs.;
- For the floor, boards measuring 25x100 mm - 27 pcs.;
- For the sheathing and roof supports, 43 boards with a section of 25x100 mm are required.
All joints and connections are made with black carpentry screws 50 mm, 70 mm and 110 mm. To reduce the cost of construction, you can use ordinary nails and construction angles, but such savings are not always justified.
Making a foundation for a 3x6 shed
After choosing a site for building a shed, you will need to plan and remove soil on an area of at least 3x6 m in size. Make a building spot bigger size doesn't make sense. To prevent vegetation from pestering you, the cleared space can be covered with salt and sand.
After marking the location of the supports, at the installation points of the pillars we dig 12 holes, 15 cm deep and the size of a standard cinder block. At the bottom of the mini-pits we pour a 5 cm layer of a mixture of crushed stone and sand, after which we lay out columnar supports from cinder blocks using masonry mortar with the addition of PVA.
Before laying out, you will need to pull horizontal cords, along which you can control the height of each support, so that the entire supporting surface of the pillars is in the same horizontal plane.
After a day, you can install the strapping beam. All corner joints and T-shaped mortises are made with the ends “half-timbered”, each connection is reinforced with self-tapping screws screwed into the beam at different angles.
Assembling the frame and pitched roof
At the next stage, you will need to install load-bearing vertical posts; they are highlighted in orange in the drawing. Next, we sew up the floor and lay the rafters of the pitched roof.
We make the central load-bearing racks from 50x100 boards, for the rear wall you will need to cut three 220 mm racks, for the front wall - four 250 mm racks. We first fix each support on the lower frame with one self-tapping screw, then set the exact horizontal position according to the building level and additionally fasten it with small half-meter struts, as in the photo.
After all the racks are installed, we strengthen them with additional temporary struts and tie the upper tier of the frame under the future pitched roof. To give the entire structure of the barn additional rigidity, before assembling the elements of the pitched roof, it is necessary to cover the floor with a tongue-and-groove board.
Next, all installed elements, floor boards, rafters, sheathing material, side posts, lower and upper trim must be treated with an antiseptic and preservative. During the time it takes to assemble the rafters and roof of the pitched roof, the procedure must be repeated twice.
For the upper overhang of a pitched roof, installation of rafters and sheathing, you will need to secure an additional horizontal beam of the mauerlat, as in the diagram.
The cutting of the seat on the rafter beam is carried out according to the markings or according to a prepared template. After installing and leveling the position of each beam, it is recommended to fill the space between the beams with short boards; they will fix the rafter from horizontal displacement and at the same time strengthen the base of the pitched roof.
Roofing and finishing works
At the final stage, we sew up the rafters of the pitched roof with a sheathing board. If bituminous materials are used for the roof of the barn - flexible tiles and roofing felt, additional OSB sheets will need to be laid on the boards or the sheathing will need to be hammered solid with wooden clapboard.
The easiest way to cover a pitched roof is with corrugated sheeting. Metal surface will withstand any disasters that may arise on a summer cottage, and laying and fastening roofing material is much easier and faster than euro-slate or roofing felt. Installed as waterproofing polyethylene film, the edges of which will be released from under the awnings and nailed to the upper edge of the wooden walls of the barn.
Laying the roof on a pitched roof begins with the bottom left sheet, as in the diagram. Each element is joined to the previous one in a row in an overlap of two waves, on bottom sheet make an overlap of 15-20 cm. Places of overlap, the lower and upper edges must be pierced with roofing nails with a silicone washer.
Wind strips are nailed to the sides of the roofing pie, protecting the pitched roof from water flow and gusts of wind. We nail a similar strip for installing a drainage gutter under the lower overhang. We protect the upper overhang of a pitched roof with a screen made of two wooden planks.
The assembled frame of a shed, as a rule, is not insulated for the winter, so lining, ordinary edged boards or OSB sheet panels can be used as a material for lining the walls. To install the cladding, you will need to install additional vertical slats and struts on the walls. Joints and cracks between OSB boards and edged boards must be blown out polyurethane foam, cut off excess polyurethane foam and be sure to paint it with weather-resistant paint.
Conclusion
The selected version of a shed with a pitched roof, measuring 3x6 m, can last up to 15 years without repair, subject to the proper choice of protective paint and varnish materials. This design has one undeniable advantage - a shed made of timber with a pitched roof can be relatively easily disassembled and moved to a new location after a summer house or a new shed made of foam blocks is built.
Arranging a suburban area is similar to renovating an apartment. The process cannot be completed, it can only be paused and then continued. Your own estate, like a living organism, always requires close attention from the owner, investment of labor effort and money. The issue becomes especially acute when it comes to domestic buildings. I want them to be strong, comfortable, outwardly decent, but inexpensive.
The combination of savings and results is possible if you build with your own hands. To do this, you need to know how to build a frame barn with a pitched roof - the most accessible option for an inexperienced performer.
It’s not for nothing that frame technologies are persistently being pushed out of domestic spaces usual ways construction. New methods are widely used in the construction of bathhouses, garages, dachas, solid residential buildings. In the field of shed construction, frame technology has no alternative at all, because it:
- Cheap. The consumption of materials required for the construction of walls is significantly reduced. Thanks to the lightness frame construction The basis is a budget columnar foundation.
- Fast. Construction is carried out many times faster than the construction of load-bearing structures made of foam blocks, bricks, timber, and logs.
- Easily. The installation of the frame elements of a small shed is carried out without special construction equipment.
- Practical. A building assembled from panels on a frame can be dismantled if necessary, moved and reassembled in another place.
Besides everything else, it's just convenient. The frame structure easily adapts to the economic needs and taste criteria of the owners. It is possible to add or change the configuration.
Rafter systems pitched roofs rest on the upper frame of the frame building, which plays the role of a mauerlat. When installing a pitched roof in classic version The rafters are laid separately on walls of different heights.
The difference in the height of the supporting walls provides the slope with the slope necessary to drain precipitation. However, this is not a necessary condition for installing a pitched roof. It is quite possible to build it over a box with walls located at the same level if:
- Build a cantilever-girder frame over one of the walls of the frame box. The frame in such structures serves as a support for the purlin, on which the rafters rest on top.
- Install trusses shaped like a right triangle. The long boat of the triangle is attached to the harness, the hypotenuse plays the role of a rafter leg.
The choice of covering for a pitched roof is closely related to the slope of its single plane. In most cases, these are flat structures with a slope of up to 8º. For their arrangement, bitumen or bitumen-polymer roll material is best suited.
Single-pitch systems with a slope of 10º to 25º are covered with profiled metal sheets or roofing steel without a profile. If it is necessary to maintain the integrity of the architectural ensemble, it is permissible to lay piece material on pitched roofs. But it should be clearly remembered that the lower the steepness, the greater the likelihood of precipitation stagnation and atmospheric water leaking into the roofing pie. Following the extremely undesirable hydration of the components roofing system premature destruction will inevitably occur.
Construction of a shed with a pitched roof step by step
Analysis specific examples – The best way learn how to properly build a barn with a strong pitched roof. Studying real solutions will help you study the principles of technology, get an idea of how to distribute the stages of work and what to focus on.
The projects we offer as a sample will give you the opportunity to easily build a similar object or tell you how to make your own design.
Construction of a frame shed on runners
The undeniable advantage of a light frame shed on runners is that it can be moved and installed anywhere in the garden if desired. For example, in the summer it can be placed near a pool or pond for temporary placement of pumping equipment, and at the end of the season it can be transported closer to the house for storing firewood.
For the purpose of periodic transportation, the structure is mounted on timber runners. If the idea of mobility does not excite you, the barn, depending on the properties of the underlying soil, rests on a surface reinforced concrete slab or on shallow concrete blocks located at the corners of the building.
We will illustrate the process of building a shed on skids. An owner who knows only basic carpentry techniques can build such an object with his own hands and equip it with a basic pitched roof. The dimensions in the pictures are given in inches; we did not change them so as not to confuse interested readers. Those who wish can translate the data by multiplying the given numbers by a conditional coefficient of 2.54.
For convenience, we will divide the construction into the following stages:
- Foundation construction. Structurally, it includes a frame attached to two parallel bars-runners. The runners are made of 4"x4" timber, the frame is made of 2"x4" timber. The space between the sides of the frame is filled with 2"x4" pieces of timber. The base elements are connected with nails or self-tapping screws. For reliability, it is advisable to duplicate critical areas with metal corners. The runners are secured with 4 screws. All fastening points must be at least 1.2 inches away from the edge of the workpiece to be joined, so that wooden parts did not split.
- Floor installation. We measure the diagonals before attaching a sheet of 3/4″ plywood to the frame, which plays the role of the future floor. The dimensions of the diagonals must match. If the condition is not met, we identify the flaws and correct them, then attach the sheet. We do not tighten the fasteners “all the way” so as not to damage the plywood. We lay additional piping along the perimeter of the floor, taking into account the doorway.
- Construction of the rear wall of the frame. We cut out the parts for it from an inch to size, taking into account the formation of the doorway. The top of the vertical elements should be sawed at an angle of 17.5º. The wall posts are fixed with temporary jibs. After checking the installation parameters with a level gauge, the racks are attached with corners to the base. The top of regular posts and short posts above the opening is connected by a board nailed on top - the back part of the top trim. It should be located at an angle.
- Construction of the front wall. This is done in a similar way, but taking into account the absence of a doorway. We cut the racks according to size and saw them at the top at an angle of 17.5º. In both cases, it is more convenient to make cuts before installation. However, if you are not confident in the accuracy of cutting and installation, it is better to cut the parts with a small margin. And after installation and fixation, file it down after the fact.
- Construction of side walls. They are made in the form of a frame with a central post in the middle. The outermost elements of the frame strengthen the corner posts of the frame shed.
- Making rafters. To cut the rafters, use a cut of an inch. We apply it to the site of the upcoming installation from the end and mark the cut lines. Using this template, we cut it out of 2ʺ×4ʺ timber.
- Installation of rafter legs. We place the rafters exactly above the posts of the front and rear walls. For fastening we use nails or self-tapping screws.
- Sheathing. It is produced using wall corrugated sheets, tongue-and-groove or non-groove boards.
- Attaching the wind board. After covering the walls at the top along the perimeter, a 1ʺ×4ʺ board is installed so that the edge of the previous element is covered by the end of the next one. The cutting of parts is carried out with preliminary fittings according to the actual position.
- Installation of sheathing. We cut 1/2" moisture-resistant plywood taking into account the actual area of the roof along with the board installed around the perimeter. Sheet material fixed to the rafters.
- Laying waterproofing and covering. On flat roofs we lay a continuous waterproofing carpet over the sheathing. The waterproofing strips are laid from bottom to top so that the seams are ultimately directed along the flow of atmospheric water. Waterproofing is laid with an overlap of 10-15cm. A roof is placed on top of it. In the example described, this is a flexible tile, the installation technology of which is.
At the end, the doorway is framed with jambs made of 1ʺ×4ʺ boards, and door hinges and the door is hung.
The proposed method of constructing a mobile shed with a pitched roof is suitable for constructing do-it-yourself children's houses, booths for storing equipment, and external components of well heads.
IN budget options the base frame can be simply secured by driving reinforcement into the ground. Metal rods, approximately 50cm long, are either simply driven through holes drilled in the frame, or driven close to the base and attached to it using metal plates.
Construction of a permanent shed
Despite the more substantial dimensions of the next shed, pour a strip or monolithic foundation doesn't make the slightest sense. Concrete blocks laid in three rows are sufficient. However, this does not mean that the work of digging and preparing a pit can be abolished. They are allowed to be abandoned only if a site is allocated for construction, previously leveled and carefully compacted during active use.
If the shed is to be built on an unprepared site, you will first have to completely remove the soil and plant layer. Then dig a pit 0.2 m deep below the seasonal freezing level in a particular region.
We will find the mark in the collection of standards “Construction Climatology”, not forgetting to check the readings with the type of soil on the site. The bottom of the pit should be compacted, covered with a crushed stone-sand cushion to a depth of 25-30 cm and filled with a layer of lean cement 10 cm thick.
After the concrete has hardened, we will mark a pit for the construction of brick or foam concrete pillars. We will build supports of the type that suits us. While laying the posts, we will lay anchors for future fastening of the lower frame frame.
We will lay scraps of roofing felt on top of the pillars to protect the wooden frame from rotting. We will assume that the stage of constructing the foundation has been successfully completed and will proceed directly to the construction of a shed with a pitched roof.
Work algorithm:
- We check how accurately the support pillars are built. We place a board flat on a row of pillars and set the spirit level. We correct any identified errors by installing cuttings of boards on the tops of the posts. We carry out control actions by placing the board along long and short rows.
- We lay the base beam on the leveled columnar foundation. If anchors were not laid during the construction of the pillars, we first try on the timber in place and mark the points for drilling holes for fastening to the pillars.
- We install the frame of the lower trim on top of the beam and fill it inside with ordinary logs.
- We lay a floor made of thick plywood, boards or OSB boards along the joists. We lay the floor elements with 2-3mm gaps for linear thermal expansion.
- We mount the front wall according to the dimensions. We fix its position with temporary jibs.
- We assemble and install the rear and side walls frame. If the cutting was done correctly, the result of the assembly will be a flawless frame with walls of the same height. Otherwise, you will have to file or build up. For craftsmen who doubt the impeccability of their work, it is advisable to assemble the walls not with a finished frame, but with separate racks, cut with a small margin in length. According to this method, the top of the posts is secured with temporary side strapping. And after the construction of all the walls, the excess is sawed off according to the indications of the upper edge of the trim.
- The top trim is installed on top of the ends of the racks in two rows. If a temporary side board was used for leveling, it should be removed. The stationary piping is laid with overlapping joints of the underlying row.
- We assemble a cantilever-girder frame from short racks, the top of which is filed at the required angle to form a slope. We calculate the angle in advance by drawing the roof profile in the diagram in the form of a regular right triangle.
- We make a template for the rafter legs from the board, placing the blank on the side to the installation site. Do not forget that the length of the rafter leg must provide the front and rear eaves overhang.
- We cut out the rafters, install them directly above the posts, and secure them with metal corners.
- We install a continuous sheathing along the rafters with a waterproofing carpet and lay the roofing covering: profiled roofing steel, etc.
Upon completion of the frame installation, we cover the barn with siding or any similar material.
Then we build doorjamb, we hang the door and lock it. We cover the cantilever frame from the inside with a mesh. If you are thinking about how best to make a roof with one slope on a frame barn with equal-height walls, information about carrying out construction using the described method will be very useful.
Installation of a slope with trusses
The use of ready-made trusses in the formation of a pitched roof is fully justified by the convenience and safety of the work. The main steps in the manufacture of rafter modules are carried out in calm conditions on solid ground.
Buy wooden or metal trusses can be prepared, they just need to be placed on the roof and secured. True, the purchase will increase the construction budget somewhat.
Self-construction of roof trusses will allow you to save an impressive amount. In addition, an inexperienced craftsman in carpentry who decides to do the work himself will be much more comfortable working on the ground.
It is easier to control the accuracy of dimensions and correct defects than to saw off, extend, or connect at height. Thanks to the comfortable conditions of carpentry work, the quality of the structure increases significantly.
The main advantage of using trusses in frame construction is that the closed triangular module does not transfer thrust to the walls, which is extremely undesirable for load-bearing structures of this type. The thrust is distributed and damped inside the truss without transferring the load to the building frame.
However, the method is still not ideal. It is used only in the case of arranging small buildings, because... rafter triangles without additional accessories has the right to cover spans only up to 7m, with additions in the form of struts and supports up to 24m.
Rafter trusses are installed on frames with walls of equal height. The principle of construction is elementary. Wooden modules are made according to pre-designed dimensions, with a configuration resembling right triangles.
The hypotenuse of the triangle is most often a rafter leg, or less often it is a supporting element on top of which the rafter is laid. The long leg acts as a floor beam. The short leg plays the role of a rack of a kind of cantilever-girder frame, made up of the end parts of the trusses.
Before making rafter triangles, it is necessary to make a drawing with calculations. The length of the rafter leg should provide eaves overhangs on both sides. If the truss is made for subsequent fastening of the rafters on top of the hypotenuse, then the triangle is drawn without taking into account the overhangs. Those. the long leg is equal to the width of the box being equipped.
The steepness of a pitched roof must be carefully considered. The predominant number of structures with one slope have slight slope due to increased wind load on the vertical part of the roof. However, manufacturers of profiled roofing steel, for example, strongly recommend using the material for arranging slopes with a slope of at least 25º.
Increasing the angle of inclination to the dimensions recommended by manufacturers sometimes brings results that are not very attractive by aesthetic criteria. In addition, the consumption of materials for the construction of the rafter system and laying the covering increases. As the steepness decreases, the consumption of waterproofing increases due to the need to lay a multi-layer continuous carpet and reinforce problem areas with additional water protection strips.
The videos will explain in a “live” form how you can make a high-quality pitched roof with your own hands: video instructions will clearly introduce you to the construction process.
An ingenious method of building on a tire foundation:
Common construction technology:
Frame shed on concrete slabs:
Construction of a shed with a pitched roof using frame technology is a task that can be safely undertaken by the owner who has not forgotten how to hold a tool in his hands.
There are not too many technological subtleties, but there are still specificities. Without taking into account the specifics of construction, there cannot be an impeccable result. This should be remembered both when choosing the optimal construction method and when implementing the plans.
No matter the size of the house, you can’t do without a shed on the site. Not everything can and should be brought into the house, even if there is space, and even if there is not, then even more so - outbuildings are necessary. By the way, this may be your first experience in independent construction: you can build a shed with your own hands without any skills. The main thing is that the hands grow from the right place.
What materials are they built from?
If the shed is located close to the house and you care about its appearance, it makes sense to use the same material as when building the house. If you don't want to spend a large amount for an outbuilding, you can choose the finish so that you won’t be able to tell it apart from a distance. In most cases, this is not very difficult: there are many technologies and many materials very accurately reproduce the appearance of expensive finishing materials. A striking example to that - . It is available for logs, beams, bricks, stones with different textures. So you don’t have to use expensive materials to build a shed. It is more practical to use inexpensive construction technology, and then cover it with material with a texture similar to the finishing of the main building.
How to quickly and cheaply build a shed
The fastest and at the same time inexpensive option building a barn - by . The frame can be wooden or, it is sheathed on the outside with finishing, a roof is installed and that’s it, the barn is ready. If the barn is planned to be made of wood, it is assembled from timber and boards. A metal shed can be more conveniently made from a profiled pipe: square section and it’s much easier to weld and join. There is also a special metal frame. It is assembled using self-tapping screws, and the entire structure is ordered and manufactured at the factory. Such houses are considered the cheapest; barns are unlikely to be expensive. Assembling both a metal and wooden shed takes several days: it has been tested more than once.
The frame building is lightweight, so the foundation for the barn needs a lightweight one. In most cases, columns and concrete blocks are sufficient; sometimes screw piles are installed or bored piles are made. On more difficult soils and for those who love reliability, you can build a monolithic or prefabricated () shallow strip foundation.
Another option. It is suitable for soils from which water drains well, and the groundwater is located deep. Then they mark out an area that is 50 cm larger than the planned barn in each direction, remove the turf and make a sand and gravel backfill. Framing beams are laid on compacted crushed stone and floor joists are attached to them (treated with anti-septic tiles for direct contact of wood with the ground). That's all. No difficulties.
This is far from the best option: even at a low level groundwater and careful processing of wood, the barn will not last long. If you are comfortable with this, you can do it this way.
Foundation for a frame shed
All types of pile or columnar foundations require the placement of single supports around the perimeter: always at the corners of the building and at the junction of lintels (partitions), if any are provided. The installation step of the supports depends on the size of the barn and what kind of logs you plan to use. The larger the span, the larger the section required for the logs.
For example, for a barn width of 2 meters, you can install only two rows of posts and the logs will be 150 * 50 mm (in extreme cases, 150 * 40 mm). If the width of the barn is 3 meters, then either install intermediate supports (posts, piles), or take a 150 * 70 mm board. Calculate what will be cheaper in your region and choose.
With a board width of 100 mm, the floor bends noticeably under your feet. So you have to make the installation step of the log about 30 cm. Then there is no deflection at all, or it is insignificant (depending on the weight).
The fastest way to make a foundation is to ready-made blocks: You can buy them or make them yourself. Under them, pits are dug a little larger in size than blocks. Sand is poured onto the bottom, compacted, then gravel, this is also compacted. The thickness of the compacted bedding is 20-30 cm. Blocks are installed on it, and the lower trim is mounted on the blocks.
If we are talking about a shallow strip foundation, then a trench is dug 40-60 cm deep relative to the ground level, the width of the strip is about 25 cm, and the trench itself must be wider by at least half a meter or more: the bottom is leveled and compacted. Crushed stone is poured onto the bottom and compacted again.
A frame is knitted from a 12-14 mm rod. Four ribbed longitudinal rods are connected using frames made of smooth rod 6-8 mm. The dimensions of the frames must be such that all reinforcement is located at least 5 cm from the edges of the tape. For example, if the foundation is 40*25 cm, then the rods are tied into a structure with rectangular cross-section 30*15 cm.
A connected frame is installed in the formwork, which is then poured at least M-200
Do-it-yourself wooden frame shed: step by step with photos
A frame barn measuring 6*3 meters was built. The roof is pitched, covered with ondulin. The height of the front wall is 3 meters, the back one is 2.4 m. Operation has shown that with such a difference in height, snow does not accumulate much (Len. region).
Standard FBS 600*300*200 blocks were used as the foundation for the barn. They are laid on a sand and gravel bedding 25 cm thick. A cut-off waterproofing is laid on top of the blocks - a layer of roofing felt, on bitumen mastic. A layer of “hydrotex” is also glued on top of the same mastic. This cake was made because the groundwater level was high, and it was necessary to ensure that the building was protected from dampness.
Start of construction of the barn. Waterproofing is laid on the foundation, a frame is placed on it, and a beam is attached to the frame
A beam with a cross section of 150*150 mm was laid on the waterproofing (all lumber was processed). Connected into half a tree, nailed - 100 * 4 mm. For those who are unfamiliar with carpentry, you can join the beams end-to-end, nail reinforced corners to the joints from the inside, and a mounting plate from the outside.
In this version, the frame was not attached to the blocks in any way. In regions with high wind loads this is unjustified. You can fasten it using studs: a hole of the same diameter (12-14 mm) is drilled under them, through the beam, into the block. A pin is driven into it, the bolt is then tightened with a wrench. To hide the cap, you can drill a hole for it.
The next step is to attach the floor joists. Installed on the edge of a 150*60 mm board. They are attached to the harness with special brackets of the appropriate size. Attached to 100*4 mm nails.
The logs were aligned along the upper edge of the strapping beam. Everything must be level, otherwise the floor will be difficult to lay. You may have to level it with a plane or redo it.
The frame was assembled using the “platform” technology: first the floor was laid, and the walls were mounted on it. The wall frame or part of it is assembled on the floor. In some cases, they are immediately sheathed from the outside if slab material is chosen for the sheathing. And already in this form (with or without casing) they are lifted, placed vertically and secured.
There is a second technology called “balloon”. The frame is mounted along it gradually: the corner posts of the frame are mounted on the frame or even directly on the blocks. They are leveled in all planes. A rope is pulled between them, along which the remaining racks are then placed. They are also nailed one at a time, fastening them together with slopes and temporary cross members.
In this case, the “platform” technology was chosen and 18 mm thick OSB was laid on the logs. In general, the floor can be made of boards, plywood (moisture resistant), OSB, etc. You will need 20 boards, 13-15 mm plywood, but you need moisture resistant (OSB is moisture resistant by default).
Next, the assembly of the walls began. The frame is completely knocked down: the lower frame, the racks, the top frame. In this form, it is installed exactly along the edge of the strapping beam, aligned, reinforced with safety struts, stops, and slopes. It is nailed through the flooring to the trim beam. The nails were 200*4 mm.
To assemble the frame, 100*50 mm boards were used, the distance between the posts was 600 mm, the rafters were installed with the same spacing. The rafter system was assembled from 150*40 mm.
Window and door openings are reinforced - two boards are nailed, which are nailed together in a checkerboard pattern every 20 cm. The load here is greater, so reinforcement is required. There is a gate at one end for loading/unloading large items. Therefore, in this wall (you can see in the photo) there are only corner posts and reinforced ones - for fastening the sashes.
Since the roof is single-pitched, the rafter system is simple: boards that are selected for the rafters are laid on the edge. Their length is longer, since the roof overhang is necessary. It is usually 30-50 cm on each side. In this option, with a barn width of 3 meters, the length of the rafter legs (taking into account the slope) was 3840 mm.
They were nailed obliquely with nails - two on each side. It can be strengthened by installing corners: this will withstand even significant wind and snow loads.
The external walls were covered with OSB 9.5 mm thick.
The doors were installed and small steps were made.
The finishing touches were to install the wind board. The barn was then clapboarded and painted to match the rest of the buildings on the site. The barn was built with your own hands on a ready-made foundation in two weekends. Cladding and painting were done much later - almost a month later.
The final barn...beautiful
The unattractive foundation is covered with asbestos sheets cut to size. It turned out to be a beautiful barn.
Shed with a gable roof made of metal tiles
This barn was built alone. The construction is also frame: the cheapest way. In this case, the assembly method is “balloon” - gradual alignment of the racks. It all starts the same way: first we made columns for the foundation. Only this time they are brick.
As you can see, there are studs built into the corner posts. Holes are drilled in the strapping beam and it is put on studs. They can be done not only in corners, but also on intermediate posts: it will hold on more firmly.
This barn has a small porch, so a cross beam is installed at the required distance. And the wall will support it. Columns were also pre-made for it.
The logs can also be attached with a notch. Then a notch in the shape of the log is cut out in the strapping beam. In depth it should not exceed 30% of the thickness of the beam, so the joist is cut so that it is flush with the frame. This method is more labor-intensive.
Next, the frame was assembled: corner posts 100*100 mm, intermediate posts - 50*100 mm, the top frame and rafter system were assembled from the same board. The triangles at the top are reinforced with overhead metal plates. Smaller plates were also attached at the junction of the upper frame beam and the racks. They were connected end-to-end without cutting, nailed on top and diagonally with nails. The plates reduced the likelihood of folding under lateral loads.
The frame was covered with OSB sheets - the most convenient size for construction. Subsequently, the walls will be finished with wood siding.
The sheathing, by the way, does not have to be made of plywood or OSB. You can attach the lining or board directly to the racks. But then, when assembling the frame, you need to install slopes: without the rigidity of the slab material, the building will be flimsy. If you don’t set the slopes, you can swing them by hand.
After installing the braces, you can fill the board, lining, block house, imitation timber - the choice is yours.
For those who are concerned about the appearance of the building, here are some ideas on how to make a barn beautiful in video format.
Video about building wooden sheds
The barn turned out to be beautiful, but not cheap. But it is decent in size, strong and in appearance no different from a house - it fits into the composition. Everything is shown/described in detail, there is one violation: the waterproofing under the metal tiles is laid vertically. Even with good gluing of the strips, sooner or later the water will make a path for itself. Otherwise, everything is correct.
In this case, the barn is built with your own hands on what is probably the cheapest foundation: concrete is poured into old tires. The frame stands on these “pillars”. Naturally, they need to be placed on a flat, reliable surface and they themselves must be at the same level. In terms of strength, the base will not be inferior to the best concrete blocks, and may even surpass them. Tires protruding from under the structure can be closed by making a step and subsequently placing flowers on it or using it for other needs. It will be even more practical.
Another video with a step-by-step illustration of the construction of a frame barn made of timber.
Drawings with dimensions
Several drawings to help you navigate the dimensions of the building. If necessary, adjust to your site or needs.
Shed with a pitched roof - drawing with a diagram of the arrangement of racks
Square barn - dimensions
