What to make a camping pot from. Fire pots for solo hikes. Features of using tripods

A tripod for a cauldron or teapot is a real find for a tourist. Especially if it is a folding model of the mechanism. The cost of purchased models is too high, therefore, despite the demand, the level of sales cannot be called high. I don’t want to pay a huge sum for simple hardware.

Features of using tripods

An experienced tourist can make such a device himself. The design scheme is not complicated, and there are more than enough design options. A tripod for a pot with your own hands is an indispensable thing in a tourist’s inventory. The device will be useful for both fisherman and hunters.

Often, improvised means are used as a stand for a camp pot - spears or crossbars found in the forest. And this option is good, but it is more convenient to make a tripod yourself, using more reliable materials.

Of course, you can resort to a simpler option and just find spears or purchase a ready-made model of a stand for a camp kitchen, so as not to bother with designing and preparing parts. Many people do this, but true connoisseurs of outdoor recreation prefer to do everything themselves. Having designed a stand, you won’t have to waste time looking for crossbars in the forest or planting, or spend a considerable amount of money on a purchased model.

By the way, constructing a tripod with your own hands is an excellent chance to gain survival experience on a camping trip. After all, without a place where you can prepare food, you will simply remain hungry.

What is required for design

In the process of assembling a tripod with your own hands, the following materials will be useful:

Nuts and screws - 6 pcs. It is better to choose parts called lambs. This is a great option for a hike.
Din-rail made of steel - 3 m. You can purchase it at a hardware store.
Wire 2-3 mm - 30 cm.
Chain.

Preparation of material

The classic version of a tripod for a pot with your own hands, 1 meter high, consists of three steel supports. The rail is cut into equal parts, resulting in three identical parts 100 cm high. After this, each rail is further divided in half. The result is 6 structural parts of 50 cm each.

When folded, a tripod for a pot with your own hands will be 50 cm long, when unfolded it will be about 100 cm. This option is invaluable in hiking conditions, especially if there is a long trek with an overnight stay.

Having prepared the supports, transverse holes are made at the end of each part of the rail, into which a ring of wire will later be threaded.

Insert the slats into the ring or triangle, choosing the more preferable option, and secure the structure. So, a tripod for a pot with your own hands, 50 cm in height, is almost ready.

Using the lambs, the remaining 3 slats are screwed to the legs of the tripod, increasing the length of the structure from 50 to 95 cm.

To attach the chain, take a nail and bend it in the shape of the letter “M”. It turns out to be a good tripod for a pot with your own hands.

Remember! When folded, the tripod is half the size of the product when fully unfolded.

This is one of the most simple options, for a pot with your own hands.

This product will come in handy while relaxing near a river, lake, or in the forest. Folding tripod - the best option for hiking and weekend tours. It is easy to fold, carry and operate. Thanks to the presence of a chain and a homemade hook, you can adjust the height of a suspended pot or kettle.

In preparation for the next “Throw March”, I decided to make myself light cauldrons, since the stuffy amphibian did not allow me to buy ready-made titanium ones. In fact, everything is very simple, first you go to the store and buy 1-2 mugs of a suitable volume, but you must take into account that the volume indicated on the price tags clearly does not correspond to reality, for example, a mug with a diameter of 11 cm is advertised as one-liter, while while it only holds 800ml. A mug with a diameter of 12 cm holds 1 liter, although it is written 1.4.

We are remaking "555" mugs for use as a cauldron. In preparation for the next "Throw March", I decided to make myself light cauldrons, since the stuffy amphibian did not allow me to buy ready-made titanium ones. In fact, everything is very simple, first you go to the store and buy 1-2 mugs of a suitable volume, but you must take into account that the volume indicated on the price tags clearly does not correspond to reality, for example, a mug with a diameter of 11 cm is advertised as one-liter, while while it only holds 800ml. A mug with a diameter of 12 cm holds 1 liter, although it is written 1.4.

So, let’s take a freshly purchased mug by the handle and deprive it of what? Right! This very pen! The most convenient way to do this is with a small cutting wheel on a machine like “DREMEL” or, as in my case, “SKIL”. Fortunately, the cost is quite affordable and will pay for itself already on the second pot made.

Moreover, it is not at all necessary to cut to the end, you can also cut through the mug itself, it is made of quite thin stainless steel, you just need to file a little in the area of the welding area...

Then just break it off. The uneven edges then need to be sanded with a sharpening stone.

The top fastening can also be cut off or, if you are lazy, simply torn off, while almost ready-made holes for the cable are formed in the pot at the places of resistance welding.

It is advisable to make the lower (and upper) stub as flat and smooth as possible so that in the future it will not cling to anything.

The holes for the cable can either be drilled, if you don’t mind the drill, or, as in my case, just punched with a center punch

And then remove the bulging metal with a small sharpening wheel.

Now all that remains is to cut it off suitable tube a couple of pieces about 1cm each (I used a piece of an unnecessary telescopic antenna) and crimped on a 1mm thick cable (bought at the same Maxidom as the mugs).

And the cauldron with a volume of about 800 ml and a weight of 104 g is ready for use.

The next largest pot, 1 liter, weighs only 124g, is made in the same way.

What is typical is that the pots fit perfectly into each other, you can make up to 6 pots that fit into each other for different volumes and take with you those that are most suitable at the moment.

You can also make a very small pot for one mug of tea, and it can be hung over a fire or burner to boil water. Effective volume 450ml, weight 80g, mug diameter 9cm. Or 600ml 95g 10cm respectively.

And if you sew a ribbon to the cauldron cover, you get a light mug!

What is characteristic is that the resulting pots, although they cost 10 times less than branded titanium ones, weigh no more, with the same volume.

The introduction of new rules and laws on fire safety in the forests, as well as the ban on lighting open fires in any place I liked that was not equipped for these purposes, pushed me to the idea of how to satisfy my needs without breaking the law. The fine for this administrative offense probably hits your pocket quite hard. Personally, I have not undergone this offensive and unpleasant procedure, and in order to avoid this in the future, I designed a stove (or a primus, if you prefer!) for heating and cooking food in a pot. You could, of course, buy a gas stove, but it was quite expensive. And why buy it if you have hands and a head! This oven turned out to be small and light. Fits easily into a backpack.

In addition, inside this stove you can place the pot itself (if it is smaller!), a spoon, a mug, salt, seasonings and other camping items, so the space in your backpack will not be reduced at all by its presence there.

Since I have had this stove for a long time, and have been successfully using it for just as long, I will make myself a new one to show clearly how to do it correctly. So, let’s prepare everything you need and start manufacturing.

Will need

Three liter tin can.
A small sheet of metal, approximately 10x10 cm, 1 mm thick.
Sander.
Bolts and nuts from metal constructor(or similar, same size).
Marker.
A small hinge.
Wrench and screwdriver to suit the size of the nuts and bolts.
Drill.
3 mm drill bits. and by 10 mm.

Making a primus stove

The work ahead will be short, easy and simple. To begin, we will mark the holes with a marker and drill along the perimeter of the upper and lower edges of the ten-millimeter holes. In increments of 3-4 cm.

Bottom openings will be designed for unobstructed access fresh air into the furnace (instead of a blower) for efficient combustion of fuel, and the top ones for the release of combustion products. Now we mark the place for the door and, using a grinder, cut out a rectangular window for the firebox in the middle of the can. Approximately 6x4 cm.

Next, we cut out a door from the prepared sheet of metal, slightly larger than the window, and adjust it to the shape of the can. We also cut out a strip of metal that will serve as a shutter for the firebox. We drill holes in the door for the shutter and for the hinge. We screw the hinge and the shutter to the door.

We, in turn, try this entire structure onto the stove, make marks for the holes with a marker, drill it and attach it to the stove itself by the hinge.

Don’t forget to screw some kind of hook to the stove, on the side of the door, where the shutter will go.

I made it from a metal jumper from an electric plug - it had a suitable thread for a bolt. (By the way, you can use rivets instead of bolts, it will probably even be better, but in the absence of a rivet gun, I’m content with what’s available.) That’s basically all. If the bank had paintwork– just heat it once in idle, the thin coating will immediately darken and peel off. This stove will be heated with small chips, twigs, cones and dry pine needles. Before using the stove, clear a small area of the ground from leaves, pine needles, moss and other flammable material, and use it in this place.

Having lit the stove, place the pot on top of it. If your pot turns out to be smaller in diameter, like mine, for example, then simply make two crossbars from thick wire that can be inserted into the upper holes.

After use, pour the coals and ash from the stove into a small hole dug in the ground, fill it with water and cover it with sand. The stove will last you depending on the intensity of use. My old stove worked fine for the second summer.

And this despite frequent use - every weekend and holidays.

When hunting, fishing and on a camping trip, it is vital to quickly warm up and prepare food when there is an acute shortage of fuel; perhaps without leaving the tent. At the dacha - in the summer, cook dinner or boil water without wasting gas, without starting the house stove or without building an outdoor summer house. The choice of one or another portable compact heating and cooking device or campfire equipment is another matter. But in any case, a device known as a wood chipper or Bond stove will help out: such a stove using waste wood fuel can be built from scrap materials using only a knife, it is omnivorous and in some of the most difficult cases (see below) it can properly perform its function in places where wood fuel is not and cannot be.

A country wood chip stove weighs up to 1.5-2 kg when folded and has a volume of less than 2 cubic meters. dm allows you to cook soup for your family; the portable one is three times lighter for preparing one serving and when folded it takes up 0.2-0.3 cubic meters. dm. The cost of high-quality materials for a durable wood chipper is unlikely to require more than 300 rubles, and you can almost always get by with free spare parts. For reference: more or less reliable all-weather gas-burner will cost from 1000 rubles; You will need to purchase an additional 3 liter cylinder for it. All this equipment will pull (with a filled cylinder) 4-5 kg and take up the same amount of cubic meters. dm.

A little history

The wood chip stove, apparently, was invented by Russian gold miners in Chukotka, when American canned food began to arrive there through Alaska (then still Russian). After Alaska became the property of the United States, many of our compatriots remained there; The surname of the main character of one of the famous stories of Jack London's Alaskan cycle is Souvarine. To the American prospectors and pioneers of the Klondike, the wood chipper was known as the Russian Can Stove.

The properties of wood chips as a means of survival were fully appreciated by Stalin's prisoners. From them, the NKVD guards also learned about the wood chipper. Pre-war survival manuals for scouts include instructions for making wood chips. It was nicknamed Bond's stove thanks to the screenwriter of one of the Bond series - an avid hunter, fisherman and single tourist. The screenwriter and the actor who played Agent 007 in that episode need to say a huge thank you without any pretense. Einstein once put it: “If you have an apple and I have an apple, and we exchange them, then we will each have an apple left. And if you have an idea and I have an idea, and we share them, then each of us will have two ideas.” The idea of the Russian Can Stove saved the lives of dozens of people already during the exploration of the Klondike; by now their number, worldwide, is likely to be in the hundreds, if not thousands.

Buy or make?

This article describes how to make a wood chipper with your own hands. There are many types of ready-made camping wood chippers on sale, but it’s not even a matter of obviously inflated prices; V in monetary terms they are generally acceptable. The fact is that the marketing-oriented “improvements” of many factory-made wood chippers actually deprive them of their main advantages: simplicity, reliability and versatility(see below, about turbo wood chippers). That's why It is better to make a wood chip stove yourself.

Types of combustion

The simplest wood chipper is actually a flame-burning basket roaster. Make one from purchased semi-finished products for 150-200 rubles. You can do it at home in half an hour (see below), but a wood chipper on a flame will turn out to be very voracious. In nature, you will need to prepare a platform for it, like for a fire: embers from the side holes can be shot quite far. In terms of heating technology, a flaming wood chipper has one advantage over a fire: the fuel load does not spread, so you can use difficult-to-burn materials such as pine cones, mountain and desert shrubs.

A good wood chip stove uses pyrolysis and afterburning of waste gases (wood gas) to one degree or another; There are also purely pyrolysis, especially economical wood chippers, see below about turbo stoves. Cost-effectiveness combined with even greater omnivorousness brings wood chippers with pyrolysis to the forefront when there is a shortage of fuel. In emergency situations, a wood chipper with sluggish, but very long and extremely economical surface combustion can literally be a lifesaver, see at the end.

For example

The simplest flaming wood chipper can be built from ORDNING cutlery dryers sold in IKEA, trade article 300.118.32, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig. The advantage of this workpiece is the material, quite thick food grade stainless steel, so the “IKEA” wood chipper will last a long time. However, it is only suitable for a morning mug of tea or soup from a bag, so the blank needs to be supplemented with a burner made of bolts (item 4): the diameter of the ORDNING is 130 mm, which is a bit too much for a traveling mug.

Already with soup on the IKEA wood chipper, problems arise: one load even of pine or birch chips is not enough, so you have to cut out a window for additional loading, pos. 3. It is inconvenient to put small chips into it, especially in the cold with numb hands. The Ikea wood chipper is not very stable, and a clumsy beginner will almost certainly topple it when adding fuel.

Finally, you can only run the IKEA wood chipper outdoors, but then you need legs. No matter how you make them (positions 5 and 6), in the backpack they cling to something and tear something. In general, an IKEA wood chipper will be useful if you take it in the trunk on a fishing trip or at the dacha for quickly heating small portions of food.

Video: example of making wood chips from an IKEA dryer

With pyrolysis

Turbo - not turbo?

“Turbo” is a catchy slogan, and manufacturers and traders under it launched supercharged chippers to the masses; they are repeated by many amateurs, see fig. on right. But on a hike, it’s enough to be a novice travel companion to understand: batteries for a boost motor are an energy-dependent stove and a completely unnecessary expense. Also, the micromotor and fan are prone to breakdowns in field conditions, and the boost pipe sticks out and gets in the way correct installation backpack However, hunters, fishermen and tourists, right up to the toughest pros, who go to the “seven” (the route of the highest, 7th, category of difficulty) should not discount the turbo chippers at all.

In fact, a turbo wood chipper is a pyrolysis camp stove, the diagram of which is shown in Fig. below the list; other sizes can be taken proportionally. Fuel is loaded to the bottom edge of the secondary air holes; ignition - from above. American tourists brought the wood chipper to this state. It must be said that careful attention to detail was the strongest side of American technical culture during its heyday; now, alas, there are clear signs of decline. For a solo hike, the pyrolysis stove-wood chipper is too big, but if a group goes, then it shows undoubted advantages:

A batch of 2-3 dozen pine cones can make lunch for 2-3 people.
Zone high temperatures is concentrated along the axis of the stove (where the flame is in the figure), so a durable pyrolysis wood chipper can be made from cans or thin galvanized steel.
It can also operate on dry gas hydrate fuel (dry alcohol).
Without modification, it can be used as a heating system in surface combustion mode, see at the end.
An overturned burning stove needs to be immediately placed straight so that it continues to work.
The scattering of sparks and smoldering coals is eliminated, and the bottom heats up to less than 80 degrees, so launching in a tent is possible.

The last case is, of course, an emergency. It is necessary to take precautions so as not to get burned, and under no circumstances climb into sleeping bags until the stove has completely burned out and is empty of ash. In addition, if the tent is made of synthetics, you need to put some kind of tarpaulin or something similar under the stove, otherwise the bottom of the tent in that place will become brittle.

Partial pyrolysis

American interest in full pyrolysis in camp stoves is largely due to local environmental regulations; True, outside the zone of its action, tourists there have a terribly ugly attitude towards nature. So, you can collect cones, but you can’t take them from a tree. Raise dry wood from the ground - no thicker than a certain size. In some states and Canada, you can go to jail for breaking off a live branch. And he violated - in the wildest wilderness, an inspector suddenly appears out of nowhere with an M14 rifle and then, as in Tsarist Russia: once it comes down to the protocol, it’s a big deal.

In the Russian Federation, there are no draconian restrictions on the use of natural resources yet, so domestic hobbyists prefer to make fairly effective, but much simpler structural wood chippers with partial pyrolysis and variable combustion modes. At first, such a stove burns like a flame. As the light fractions of the fuel burn out and its load settles, the role of pyrolysis with afterburning from secondary air becomes increasingly stronger, and the coals burn down to ash through pyrolysis. In terms of efficiency, camp stoves with variable combustion modes are somewhat inferior to pure pyrolysis stoves, but temperature regime They have almost the same smoothness and cooking takes almost the same amount of time. All samples considered below (except for the emergency ones at the end) work exactly according to this principle.

Under the bowler hat

Most of all, tourists, hunters and fishermen use wood chippers. A typical set of their equipment also includes an army bowler hat, so a wood chipper for a bowler hat is an object quite in demand. Unfortunately, if the authors of the most advanced designs on thermal engineering know anything, they successfully ignore this information. There are few sufficiently fully developed designs; one of them is shown in Fig. The legs and burner made from fragments of a hacksaw (middle in the top row) are visible for clarity; Normally they are placed in a pot.

The material of the product is canned tin or thin galvanized. The bottom pattern is traced along the lid of the pot: there is a flange on it, in the stowed position the pot fits into the stove with a minimum gap and no extra volume is required for installation. Additional holes in the bottom for the mounting brackets of the legs are shown with red arrows.

Special for the bowler

Once upon a time, Soviet “Sporting Goods” sold tourist mini-kettles. Those who served in the communications troops as cable operators or at small-channel radio relay stations R-405, R-405, etc., and often traveled to points, were surprised to recognize in them the “secret” pots for cooking food from high-calorie concentrates, which were equipped with their equipment rooms. Only in the army was a special pot supplied with a stove for dry alcohol and fine fuel, i.e. wood chipper In Gorbachev’s times, its description was published by MK (declassified?); For a drawing of a wood chipper for a tourist pot, see Fig. The air flow for afterburning wood gas is fully ensured by the gaps between the spokes of the burner with a diameter of 2 and 4 mm holes for them. The advantage of this wood chipper is very quick cooking food and absolute wind protection. No laws of heating engineering prevent you from making the same stove for an ordinary army bowler.

Note: best material for the stove-wood chipper for the pot - stainless steel from an old tank washing machine. It is quite difficult to process, but the stove will be light, durable, easy to clean and eternal. It will also become a little more economical ( stainless steel conducts heat worse than the design) and will be less likely to accumulate carbon deposits.

Folding

The next most popular wood chip stove is a camping and country folding one. Such wood chippers are assembled into a working configuration from flat parts, which when folded form a compact package. It is placed in a cooking container or in a special pocket inside the backpack so that the corners do not tear anything. Due to its compactness when folded, parts of the folding wood chipper can be made from ordinary structural steel with a thickness of 1-2 mm. The weight of installation in the stowed position then increases to 0.8-1.2 kg, but the stove turns out to be quite durable without the use of special steels. In addition, the same approach allows you to make a summer wood chipper of increased size, on which you can cook lunch for everyone in a cauldron or boil a bucket of water.

Mini hiking

Drawings of the parts from which the folding camping mini wood chipper is assembled are shown in Fig. higher. The assembly process is simple:

wing a Det. 4 is inserted into cutout a’ Det. 2;
hooks b of Parts 1 are inserted into the cutouts b’ Det. 2;
Parts 1 are moved slightly apart and pushed down until they stop;
Det. 4 is raised and Parts 1 are brought together so that its wings c’ fit into the cutouts c of Parts 1;
The stove is fixed in assembled form by putting Det. 3 with its grooves d’ onto the hooks d of Parts 1.

Folding country house

A country folding wood chipper must, firstly, withstand a significant load. Secondly, with its increased dimensions, it becomes difficult to ensure a variable combustion mode by simply drilling holes in the sidewalls. Thirdly, a country wood chipper should make it possible to place dishes on it different sizes and at the same time, the requirements for maximum compactness when folded and minimum weight are not necessary for it. In Fig. Patterns of the sidewalls of a country wood chip stove that meet these conditions are given; side of the square of the scale grid - from 10 to 50 mm, depending on the purpose of the furnace and the availability of material.

Material – structural steel with a thickness of 1.5-2.5 mm. The red-filled blades of the sidewalls, forming the burner, bend inward at angles of 45 degrees after cutting out the blanks. This ensures, firstly, the possibility of installing vessels on the burner various sizes. Secondly, together with the shaped cutouts at the top, the dimensions and configuration of the bottom of the installed vessel, the flow of secondary air is regulated, i.e. This stove is self-adjusting according to the cooking utensils. If you put a frying pan or a small saucepan, it will burn longer, but heat less. Under a large cauldron with a rounded bottom it’s stronger, under a bucket it’s even stronger, and under boiling water it’s generally at its maximum.

Note: In order for this oven under heavy cookware to be as stable as possible, the assembly grooves in the sides (filled with green in the figure) must be made exactly as wide as the thickness of the sheet of metal used.

About pyramidal wood chippers

Sometimes amateur designers, in order to achieve more complete combustion of fuel, make folding wood chips of a pyramidal shape. Indeed, in such furnaces the share of pyrolysis in the heat release increases. But the additional heat is easily lost, as can be clearly seen in Fig. on right. The stove is not a cooling tower after all.

Emergency

Finally, let's see how to make a wood chipper as a last resort from scrap materials. At pos. 1-3 fig. the same Russian Can Stove that survived unchanged to Bond’s stove. This kind of wood chipper is primarily used for heating: the combustion in it is quiet and superficial. A surface burning wood chipper produces a weak flame, but a lot of soft heat. When starting in a tent, you can use a metal bowl as a tray, into which small pebbles of approx. same size. Not sand, you need air flow! You also need to place something under the bowl that is not self-igniting and does not conduct heat well: the bottom of the stove, when the load burns out, heats up to 300-400 degrees, and the bottom of the bowl through pebbles 2-3 cm in diameter to 140-160 degrees.

By the way, the best fuel load for an emergency surface burning wood chipper is a tightly tucked roll toilet paper, also tightly packed medical cotton wool, etc. loose fuel, which contains more cellulose and less of something else. To ignite you need 30-100 ml of alcohol or any other flammable liquid, strong alcohol (vodka, cognac, local moonshine) or vegetable oil. The fuel load is pierced along the axis to the bottom with a pencil, writing pen or sharpened stick, doused with kindling and set on fire. It burns for a long time, without soot, and produces a lot of heat.

If among the empty cans there is a pair that fits into one another, then from the cans it is possible to quickly assemble a wood chipper with a mixed combustion mode that is more economical and suitable for making tea or soup in a mug, pos. 4 and 5. The holes, of course, do not have to be so neat; they can simply be punched with a knife. If the stove will be loaded with loose fuel, holes in the inner can must be pierced from the inside so that burrs do not interfere with loading. Also, 1-3 rows of holes are punched at the top in the shell (cylindrical sidewall) of the inner can. Branch fuel is loaded to the bottom edge of the holes in the top row, pos. 5. These, of course, are not all options for wood chip stoves as a last resort; Other quite effective designs are also possible camping stoves from cans, see eg. video:

Video: wood chipper from a tin can

One of the benefits of outdoor recreation is cooking over an open fire, which makes ukha, kulesh and even simple tea seem incredibly tasty. But it's not always possible to find suitable stones to build something like a fireplace. Therefore, take with you a lightweight tripod made of aluminum tubes - perfect solution, since it does not take up much space, is quickly assembled and easy to use. Of course, you can buy a ready-made factory-assembled product, but for a craftsman who likes to do everything with his own hands, this is not interesting.

Required materials and tools

To build a tripod for a hike, you will need the following materials:

3 pieces of aluminum or thin-walled steel pipe 150–200 cm long. The longer the pipes are, the higher the tripod will be.
3 steel eye bolts.
3 S-shaped hooks.
Metal chain for hanging the pot.

Tools you will need:

Hammer.
Bulgarian or hand saw on metal.
Pliers.

Making a hiking tripod

Now you can proceed directly to assembling the tripod. If pipes of greater length were prepared, they need to be cut to a convenient length, which can be any.
To connect the bolts to each other, you need to loosen one of the loops a little so that you can put on the other bolts.

The most convenient way to do this is to hold the bolt in a vice and loosen the ring with pliers or a gas wrench. This is the most the hard part on assembling the tripod, so you will have to tinker a little.
When the eye is pressed down sufficiently, the rings of the other two bolts and one end of the chain are put on it.

After this, using a hammer, the loosened ring is compressed so that the put-on elements do not fall out and the structure remains intact.
The tripod legs are connected in this order.
The end of a bolt with a nut screwed onto it is inserted into one of the ends of the pipes. If the nut dangles loosely in the pipe, then you need to tap the pipe on a hard base just above and below the nut and flatten it a little. This will allow you to securely fix the nut in the pipe so that the tripod does not fall apart at the most inopportune moment.

When this is done, an S-shaped hook is put on the chain 3-5 links from the top of the tripod, which will allow you to adjust the height of the dishes above the fire.
Advice! The end of the hook, which is put on the chain, must be clamped with a hammer or pliers so that it does not fall out and is not lost during transportation.
If the length of the chain is too long, then it needs to be shortened so that the dishes are located at a height of several centimeters above the ground when the tripod is unfolded.

Another S-shaped hook is placed on the last link of the chain and the end is clamped. Utensils will be hung on this hook: a cauldron, a pot, a teapot or other suitable utensils.

You can adjust the height of the dishes above the fire by moving the legs of the tripod or by re-hooking the chain into several links on the top hook.

Among the advantages of this design, one should note its compactness and ease of folding/unfolding.

If desired, you can slightly expand the functionality of the tripod. For example, you can drill holes in the legs and attach additional hooks on which you can dry shoes or hang dishes away from the fire so that food does not get cold.
Note! When lighting an open fire in nature, you must follow fire safety rules! You also need to be careful when drying clothes or shoes over the fire so that they do not burn. To do this, the tripod legs must be of such length that their lower part can be located at a sufficient distance from the fire and remain cool.