Water underfloor heating. Detailed description of installation of water floor heating Water floor heating system

Warm floors are considered, in our understanding, to be a more modern heating system than radiator heating. However, this is far from true - they appeared much earlier. Stubborn historical facts indicate that heated floors were successfully used back in the days of Ancient Rome, in Korea, and in Russia too. True, only stove heating was used at that time, since the system for transporting hydrocarbons through pipes did not yet exist. In the modern world, the most economically successful countries widely use underfloor heating, and this is done not only for reasons of obvious comfort, but also takes into account the fact that such heating allows saving energy resources, the demand for which is growing every year.

This type of heating is not a cheap pleasure. Parts and labor are very expensive. That is why any zealous owner may have the idea of ​​making a water-heated floor with his own hands. Why not? Moreover, the experience of both successful and unsuccessful implementations has already been accumulated enough to give specific recommendations. The purpose of our article is to give specific advice to those owners who are going to make a warm water floor, but at the same time so that they save their money and ultimately get what they wanted - comfortable and economical heating.

Why water heated floor?

Of course, they are simpler to implement and easier to manage, but the cost of energy makes its own adjustments - this type of heating is much more expensive to operate than a water-heated floor. Only 4-5 years will pass and the warm water floor will pay for itself with interest, but only on the condition that it is done competently and correctly. This is exactly what the authors of the article want to tell our readers. Disregarding colorful catalogs with expensive equipment, and based only on the experience of people who were able to implement a warm water floor in their home.

Most heating systems currently use natural gas as a heat source - and this makes perfect sense, since this type of fuel is cheaper than others. And this trend will continue for at least several more decades. Therefore, it is best to implement heated floors with water, in which the coolant is heated by the energy of combustion of natural gas. But for this, a number of conditions must be met.

Water heated floor installation

A warm water floor is a complex multi-component system, each part of which performs its own function. Let's look at its structure in the following figure.

Typical design of a warm water floor “pie”

This type of underfloor heating is called “wet” because it uses “wet” construction processes, namely pouring cement-sand screed. There are also so-called dry heated floors, but they are made mainly. In this article, we will consider “wet” warm water floors, since they are much better, although their installation is more difficult.

A warm water floor is mounted on a stable and durable base, which can be a concrete slab or soil. A vapor barrier made of polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.1 mm is laid on the base. The next layer of the “pie” is insulation; it is best to use extruded insulation, which has a very low thermal conductivity coefficient, high mechanical strength and reasonable cost. A cement-sand screed is installed on top of the insulation, to which a plasticizer is necessarily added - for the mobility of the mixture, ease of installation and reduction of the water-cement ratio. It is advisable to reinforce the screed with metal wire mesh with a cell pitch of 50*50 mm or 100*100 mm. There, inside the screed, there are underfloor heating pipes with coolant circulating in them. It is recommended to make the height of the screed above the pipes at least 3 cm, however, practice suggests that 5 cm is better, as the strength will be higher and the heat distribution across the floor will be more uniform.

At the junction of the walls and the screed, as well as at the boundaries of the warm water heating circuits, a damper tape is laid, which compensates for the thermal expansion of the screed when it is heated. The final floor covering must be designed specifically for use with heated floors. The best solution is ceramic or porcelain tiles, but some other types of coverings - laminate, carpet or can also be used with heated floors, but they must have a special symbol in their markings.

Such coatings, however, require strict adherence to the thermal conditions of the floor, which is achieved by using automation - special mixing units.

Requirements for premises where heating with warm water floors will be implemented

The smartest move in construction is when the underfloor heating pipeline is laid at the stage of erecting the floors. This is very successfully used in Germany, Sweden, Norway, Canada, and in other economically successful countries where energy resources are very expensive and therefore they use underfloor heating, which is 30-40% more economical than radiator heating. It is quite possible already in the finished premises, but it must meet certain requirements. Let's list them.

The most correct underfloor heating pipeline is the one that was laid during the construction of the house

• Considering the significant thickness of the warm water floor - from 8 to 20 cm, the height of the ceilings in the room should allow the installation of such a heating system. It is also necessary to take into account the size of the doorways, which must be at least 210 cm in height.
• The base of the floor must be strong enough to withstand a heavy cement-sand screed.
• The base for heated floors must be clean and level. Irregularities should not exceed 5 mm, since differences greatly affect the coolant current in the pipes; they can lead to airing of the circuits and an increase in hydraulic resistance.
• In the room where a warm water floor is planned, all plastering work, windows installed.
• Heat loss in the premises should not be more than 100 W/m2. If they are larger, then you should think about insulation rather than heating the environment.

How to choose a good pipe for heated floors

Warm water floor pipes are written in sufficient detail on our portal. Obviously, for heated floors it is better to choose pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene - PEX or PERT. Among PEX pipes, preference should be given to PE-Xa pipes, since they have a maximum cross-linking density of about 85% and therefore have the best “memory effect”, that is, pipes, after being stretched, always tend to return to their original position. This allows the use of axial fittings with a sliding ring, which can be walled into building structures without fear. In addition, if a pipe is broken, you can restore its shape by heating the problem area construction hairdryer.

PERT pipes do not have a memory effect, so only push-in fittings are used with them, which cannot be walled up. But if all the contours of the heated floor are made with solid pipe sections, then all connections will be only on the manifold and it is quite possible to use PERT pipes.

In addition, manufacturers produce pipes of composite construction, when aluminum foil is placed between two layers of cross-linked polyethylene, which is a reliable oxygen barrier. But the heterogeneity of the material and the difference in the coefficients of thermal expansion of aluminum and polyethylene can provoke delamination of the pipe. Therefore, it is better to choose PE-Xa or PERT pipes with a polyvinylethylene (EVOH) barrier, which significantly reduces the diffusion of oxygen into the coolant through the pipe wall. This barrier can be located in the outer layer of the pipe, or inside, surrounded by layers of PE-Xa or PERT. Of course, the best pipe is the one with EVOH layer located inside.

For underfloor heating circuits, there are three main pipe sizes: 16*2 mm, 17*2 mm and 20*2 mm. Most often they use 16*2 and 20*2 mm. How to choose exactly the “right” pipe.

• Firstly, the brand matters in this matter and you need to pay attention to it. The most famous manufacturers: Rehau, Tece, KAN, Uponor, Valtec.
• Secondly, the marking of pipes can “tell” a lot; it should be carefully studied and do not hesitate to ask more questions to the sales consultant.
• Thirdly, the qualifications of the sales consultant are very helpful when choosing a pipe. Don’t forget to ask for certificates of conformity, inquire about the availability and price of fittings, mixing units, manifolds and other equipment. It is necessary to find out in which coils the pipe is sold, and how many meters, in order to take this into account in future calculations.
• And finally, if a PE-Xa pipe is selected, then you can conduct a small test. To do this, you need to bend a small section of pipe, and then warm up this place with a hair dryer. A high-quality PE-Xa and PE-Xb pipe should also restore its original shape. If this does not happen, then no matter what is written on the label, it is simply not a PEX pipe.

Principles of designing heated floors

One of the most important stages in the installation of warm water floors is their proper calculation. Of course, it is best to entrust this to specialists, but sufficient experience already suggests that this can be done independently. You can find a lot of free programs and online calculators on the Internet. Most reputable manufacturers provide their software for free.

water heated floor

First you need to decide what temperature the heated floor should be.

• In residential areas where people spend most of their time standing, the floor temperature should be in the range of 21 to 27°C. This temperature is most comfortable for the feet.
• For work areas - offices, as well as living rooms, the temperature should be maintained around 29°C.
• In hallways, lobbies and corridors, the optimal temperature is 30°C.
• For bathrooms and swimming pools, the floor temperature should be higher - about 31-33°C.

Heating with warm water floors is low-temperature, therefore the coolant must be supplied at lower temperatures than to radiators. If water can be supplied to the radiators at a temperature of 80-90°C, then the heated floor cannot be supplied at more than 60°C. In heat engineering there is such an important concept as temperature drop in the heating circuit . This is nothing more than the difference in temperature between the supply pipe and the return pipe. In heated water floor systems, the optimal modes are 55/45°C, 50/40°C, 45/35°C and 40/30°C.

A very important indicator is (loops) of a warm water floor. Ideally, they should all be the same length, then problems with balancing will not arise, but in practice this is unlikely to be achieved, so it is accepted:

• For a pipe with a diameter of 16 mm, the maximum length is 70-90 m.
• For a pipe with a diameter of 17 mm – 90-100 m.
• For a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm – 120 m.

Moreover, it is advisable to focus not on the upper limit, but on the lower one. It is better to divide the room into large quantity loops, rather than trying to achieve circulation with a more powerful pump. Naturally, all loops must be made of pipes of the same diameter.

Step of laying out (laying) heated floor pipes - another important indicator, which is made from 100 mm to 600 mm, depending on the thermal load on the heated floor, the purpose of the room, the length of the circuit and other indicators. It is almost impossible to make a pitch of less than 100 mm with PEX pipes; there is a high probability of simply breaking the pipe. If the heated floor is equipped only for comfort or additional heating, then you can make a minimum step of 150 mm. So, what layout step should be used?

• In rooms where there are external walls, so-called underfloor heating is used. edge zones , where pipes are laid in increments of 100-150 mm. In this case, the number of rows of pipes in these zones should be 5-6.
• In the centers of rooms, as well as in those where there are no external walls, the laying step is 200-300 mm.
• Bathrooms, baths, paths near swimming pools are laid with pipes with a pitch of 150 mm over the entire area.

Methods for laying heated floor contours

The contours of a water heated floor can be laid in different ways. And each method has its advantages and disadvantages. Let's look at them.

• Laying a heated floor pipe in a “snake” pattern easier to install, but its significant drawback is that there will be a noticeable temperature difference on the floor at the beginning of the circuit and at the end - up to 5-10°C. The coolant, passing from the supply manifold to the return manifold in the heated floor structure, cools down. Therefore, such a temperature gradient arises, which is clearly felt by the feet. This installation method is justified in boundary zones, where the floor temperature should decrease from the outer wall to the center of the room.

• Laying a heated floor pipe "snail" more difficult to implement, but with this method the temperature of the entire floor will be approximately equal, since the supply and return pass inside each other, and the difference is leveled out by a massive floor screed when the calculated requirements of the laying step are met. In 90% of cases this method is used.

• Combined methods of laying underfloor heating pipes are also used very often. For example, the edge zones are laid with a snake, and the main area with a snail. This can help to correctly divide the room into contours, distribute the pipe coil with a minimum of residue and ensure the desired mode.

In each of the methods it can be used variable laying step , when in the edge zones it is 100-150 mm, and in the room itself 200-300 mm. Then it is possible to meet the requirements for more intense heating of the edge zones in one room without using other installation methods. Experienced installers most often do just this.

Layout of the heating circuit “snail” with a constant pitch (left) and with a variable pitch (right)

To calculate contours, it is best to use special and very easy-to-learn software. For example, the well-known manufacturer Valtec, which distributes its program for free. There are also more simple programs for calculating the layout of contours that calculate the length of the loops, which is very convenient. For example, the “Snail” program, which is also distributed free of charge. For those who are not very computer friendly, you can calculate the contours yourself by using graph paper, on which you can draw a floor plan to scale and, on this sheet, “lay out” the contours with a pencil and calculate their length.

When dividing rooms into water-heated floor circuits, the following requirements must be met:

• The circuits should not move from room to room - all rooms should be regulated separately. An exception may be bathrooms if they are located nearby. For example, a bathroom next to a toilet.
• One heating circuit should not heat a room with an area of ​​more than 40 m2. If necessary, the room is divided into several circuits. The maximum length of any side of the contour should not exceed 8 meters.
• A special damper tape must be laid along the perimeter of the room, between rooms, as well as between individual circuits, which, after pouring the screed, will compensate for its thermal expansion.

Choosing the type of insulation for a heated floor and its thickness

Insulation for a warm water floor is mandatory, because no one would like to spend their money on heating the ground, the atmosphere or unnecessary building structures, but the floor is exactly what is needed, which should receive the lion's share of the heat from the heating circuit. This is why insulation is used. What types should be used? Among all their diversity, the authors of the article recommend that you should pay attention to only two of them.

• Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS). This material has low thermal conductivity, high mechanical strength. EPS is not afraid of moisture, it practically does not absorb it. Its price is quite affordable. This insulation is produced in the form of slabs standard sizes 500*1000 mm or 600*1250 mm and thickness 20, 30, 50. 80 or 100 mm. For good joining of the plates there are special grooves on the side surfaces.

• Profile thermal insulation made of high-density polystyrene foam. On their surface there are special round or rectangular bosses, between which it is very convenient to lay the pipe without additional fixation. The pipe fastening pitch is usually 50 mm. This is very convenient for installation, but the price is much higher than EPS boards, especially from famous brands. They are produced with a thickness of 1 to 3 cm and dimensions of 500 * 1000 mm or 60 * 1200 mm - it depends on the manufacturer.

Eps boards may have an additional foil layer with additional markings. Marking the slabs is, of course, useful, but the presence of foil only increases the cost of the insulation, and it will be of no use for two reasons.

• The reflectivity declared by the manufacturers will not work in an opaque environment, such as a screed.
• Cement mortar is a strong alkaline medium that will perfectly “eat” an insignificant (several tens of microns) layer of aluminum before it hardens. You need to realize that foil plates are a marketing ploy and nothing more.

The authors of the article recommend using EPS boards for insulation. The savings compared to profile mats will be obvious. The difference in cost will be enough for fasteners, and there will still be a lot of money left over. Let us remember the popular wisdom that money saved is akin to money earned.

How thick should the insulation be in the construction of a warm water floor? There are special and complex calculations, but you can do without them. If you learn a few simple rules.

• If heated floors will be made on the ground, then the thickness of the insulation should be at least 100 mm. It is best to make two layers of 50 mm each and lay them in mutually perpendicular directions.
• If heated floors are planned in rooms above the basement floor, then the thickness of the insulation is at least 50 mm.
• If heated floors are planned above rooms heated from below, then the thickness of the insulation is at least 30 mm.

Additionally, it is necessary to provide for fastening the EPS boards to the base material, since when pouring the screed they will tend to float. Disc-shaped dowels are ideal for this. They must be used to secure all slabs at the joints and in the center.

To attach the pipe to the EPS, special harpoon clamps are used, which securely fix the pipe. They are fastened at intervals of 30-50 cm, and in places where the PEX pipe turns, the step should be 10 cm. It is usually calculated that 500 pieces of harpoon clamps are required for a bay of 200 meters of pipe. When purchasing them, there is no need to chase the brand, as it will cost several times more. There are very high-quality and inexpensive staples from Russian manufacturers.

Selecting a collector-mixing unit for heated floors

The water floor collector is the most important element that receives coolant from the main, distributes it among the circuits, regulates flow and temperature, balances circuit loops, and promotes air removal. Not a single warm water floor can do without it.

It is better to entrust the choice of a collector, or, more correctly, a collector-mixing unit, to specialists who will select necessary components. In principle, you can assemble it yourself, but this is a topic for a separate article. We’ll just list what elements should be included so as not to make a mistake in choosing.

• Firstly, these are the collectors themselves, which can be equipped with various fittings. They must be equipped with tuning (balancing) valves with or without flow meters, which are located on the supply manifold, and on the return manifold there may be thermostatic valves or simply shut-off valves.

• Secondly, any manifold for removing air from the system must be equipped with an automatic air vent.
• Thirdly, both the supply and return manifolds must have drain valves to drain the coolant from the manifold and remove air when the system is filling.
• Fourthly, to connect the pipe to the collector, fittings must be used, which are selected individually in each specific case.

• Fifthly, special brackets are used to fasten the collectors and ensure the required center distance.

• Sixthly, if the boiler room is not equipped with a separate riser for heated floors, then the person must be responsible for preparing the coolant mixing unit, including pump, thermostatic valve, bypass. The design of this node has many implementations, so this issue will be discussed in a separate article.

• And finally, the entire collector-mixing unit must be located in a collector cabinet, which is installed either in a niche or openly.

The collector-mixing unit is located in such a place that all the lengths of the mains from it to the heated floor loops are approximately equal and the main pipes are in close proximity. The manifold cabinet is often hidden in a niche, then it can be placed not only in change houses and boiler rooms, but in dressing rooms, corridors and even living rooms.

Video: What calculations are necessary before installing a heated floor

Do-it-yourself water heated floor installation

After making calculations and purchasing all the necessary components, you can gradually implement a warm water floor. First, it is necessary to outline the places where the manifold cabinets will be placed, niches are hollowed out, if necessary, and passages are made through building structures. All slotting and drilling work must be completed before the next step.

Installation of insulation

Before this stage, it is necessary to prepare the premises for this - take out everything unnecessary, remove all construction debris, sweep and vacuum the floors. The room must be absolutely clean. When installing slabs, you must wear shoes with flat soles, as heels can damage the surface. We list the sequence of actions when installing insulation.

• First of all, the level of the clean floor is marked on the walls using a laser or water. All unevenness of the base is measured using long rule and level.
• If the unevenness exceeds 10 mm, then they can be completely leveled by adding clean and dry sand, which should subsequently be leveled.

• If the heated floor is installed on the ground or above the basement floor, then a waterproofing film is spread with an overlap of adjacent strips of at least 10 cm and overlapping the wall. The joints are taped with tape. A polyethylene film of 150-200 microns is quite suitable as waterproofing.
• Starting from the far corner of the room, the process of laying EPS boards begins. They are laid close to the walls with the marked surface facing up.
• The EPS boards must fit tightly together using grooves on their side surfaces. When laying each slab, it must fit tightly to the base and be in a horizontal plane, which is checked by the building level. If necessary, add sand under the slab.

• If along the laying path there are obstacles in the form of protrusions, columns and other elements, then after preliminary marking the slab is trimmed with a construction knife along a metal ruler. In this case, the EPS must be placed on some kind of non-solid base so that the knife does not become dull, for example, a piece of plywood or OSB.
• When laying the next row, it should be taken into account that the joints of the slabs should not coincide, but run apart, like brickwork. In order to ensure that at least 1/3 of its length remains from the last remaining EPS slab in a row, then laying the next row should begin with it.
• If it is planned to lay the second layer of EPS, then it should be laid in a mutually perpendicular direction with the first layer.
• After laying the thermal insulation, use a hammer drill with a long drill and a hammer to secure the disc dowels at each joint - at each joint and in the center of each EPS board. The joints between the EPS are sealed with construction tape.

• If after installing the insulation there are cavities or cracks left, they can be filled with EPS cuttings and blown out with foam, but this can also be done later, after the pipes have been installed.

After this, we can say that the installation of insulation has been completed. Although EPS boards are dense enough to support the weight of an adult, you still need to take precautions when moving on them. It is best to use wide boards or pieces of plywood or OSB.

Installation of a warm water floor pipe

The most crucial and difficult moment has arrived - installation of underfloor heating pipes. At this stage you need to be especially attentive and careful, and you can’t do it without an assistant. It is also advisable to have special device for unwinding the pipe, since it is strictly forbidden to remove the pipe from the coil with rings, since then there will be very strong stress, which will complicate or make installation impossible. The main rule is that the coil must be twisted, and not removed from the fixed coil. In principle, this can be done manually, but with a device it is much easier.

If there are markings on the top side of the EPS slabs, then this is simply wonderful, then laying the pipes will be greatly simplified. And if not, then you shouldn’t go for the purchase of thin foil insulation made of foamed polyethylene with markings applied. It won't be of any use. You can apply the markings yourself. To do this, marks are made with a marker on the top side of the slabs at the distance of the required contour step, and then the lines are marked with paint thread - this way you can make markings in a short time. After this, you can draw the routes of the heated floor contours.

screed for heated floors

A manifold cabinet is attached to the intended location and a manifold is mounted in it, without a pumping and mixing group for now, it will be needed later. At the entrance to the collector, at the exit from it, and also at the entrance to the pipe, each pipe must be protected with a special corrugation. However, corrugation from famous manufacturers costs mind-boggling money, so it is quite acceptable to replace it with thermal insulation of the appropriate diameter. Also, pipes must be protected during transitions from room to room and from circuit to circuit.

Installation of underfloor heating pipes should begin from the areas furthest from the collectors, and all transit pipes should be covered with thermal insulation made of foamed polyethylene, which will ensure maximum energy conservation to the destination point and will not “lose” heat along the way. Next, the pipe “emerges” from the EPS slabs, already “naked” it bypasses its entire heating circuit and “dives” back and, already in thermal insulation, follows to the collector. The transit pipes themselves are placed inside the EPS slabs; for this, passage routes are first cut into them with a knife.

If the thermal insulation consists of two layers of EPS boards, then the first layer is laid first, then all communications are laid, including transit pipes for the heated floor, and then the second layer is adjusted and trimmed on site.

In addition, in the area where the heated floor is located, pipes to radiators, as well as hot and cold water supply lines, can run. If there are several pipes, then they can be secured in a bundle either with disc dowels or with a perforated metal strip and dowels. In any case, they should not protrude beyond the top surface of the EPS slabs, so that the heated floor contour can be laid on top without any obstruction. All cavities are filled with polyurethane foam, which, after hardening, is cut flush from the surface of the insulation boards.

Along the perimeter of the room where there will be heated floors, a damper tape is glued to the walls, which is designed to compensate for the thermal expansion of the screed. The tape comes with or without an adhesive layer. When purchasing it, you don’t have to chase the brand and pay several times more. A damper tape that is worthy in every sense is now being produced Russian production. If there is no tape at all, then this is also not a problem - it can be replaced by foam plastic 1 or 2 cm thick, glued to the wall with liquid nails or polyurethane foam.

Damper tape should also be installed between rooms and different circuits. For this purpose, a special tape with a T-shaped profile is produced. And in this case, it can be replaced by thin foam plastic glued with polyurethane foam or glue.

Pipe installation is done as follows:

• 10-15 m of pipe is unwound from the coil, thermal insulation and a corresponding fitting for connection to the collector are put on its end.
• The pipe is connected to the supply of the corresponding outlet of the manifold.
• The pipe is laid along previously marked routes and secured with harpoon clamps on straight sections after 30-40 cm, and on turns after 10-15 cm. The pipe should be bent carefully, without creases.

• When laying, you should not try to fasten the pipe immediately, but should first lay it out approximately along the routes for 5-10 m, and only then fasten it with brackets. The pipe should lie on the insulation without tension, there should be no force that tries to pull the staples out of the EPS.
• If for some reason the bracket has flown out of its place, then it is mounted in another place, at a distance of at least 5 cm.
• After bypassing the entire circuit of the heated floor, the return pipe returns to its supply pipe and follows next to it to the collector. If necessary, thermal insulation is put on it.
• Upon arrival at the collector, the pipe is connected to it with the appropriate fitting.

• Near the corresponding loop of the heated floor on the wall, as well as on paper, the length of the contour must be written down. This data is necessary for further balancing.

All contours are laid in the same way. At first it will be difficult, but then, after one “snail” has been laid, everything will be clear and the work will go without problems. When moving along already laid contours, you need to lay boards, plywood or OSB under your feet or knees.

Walking in shoes through pipes is not recommended. It is better to organize such “paths”

Video: Laying a heated floor pipe

Installation of reinforcing mesh

Disputes about the appropriateness of reinforcing mesh are ongoing. Some say that it is needed, others say the opposite. There are many examples of successful implementation of a heated floor without a reinforcing mesh and, at the same time, there are examples of unsuccessful implementation of a heated floor with reinforcement. The authors of the article claim that reinforcement will never be superfluous, but only if done correctly.

The Internet is replete with examples where a metal mesh is laid and secured onto the insulation, and only then a heated floor pipe is attached to it using plastic ties. It seems convenient, but this is not reinforcement, but simply placing an absolutely useless mesh under the screed, on which money was spent. Reinforcement is when the mesh is inside the screed and not under it. This is why the authors recommend placing the mesh on top of the pipe.

To reinforce the screed, a metal mesh made of wire with a diameter of 3 mm with a cell size of 100 * 100 mm is suitable - this is quite enough. It is not recommended to use mesh made from reinforcement due to the fact that the reinforcement has a corrugated surface and can cause damage during installation. smooth surface pipes. And you shouldn’t spend extra money on the excessive strength of the screed, because it is assumed that the heated floor is already installed on a fairly solid foundation. The mesh is laid overlapping one cell and tied either with knitting wire or plastic clamps. The sharp protruding ends must be bitten off so that they do not damage the pipe. Additionally, the mesh is attached to the pipe in several places with plastic clamps.

Instead of a metal mesh, a plastic mesh can be used, which will perfectly reinforce the screed and save it from cracking. It is more convenient to lay plastic mesh, as it comes in rolls. The use of plastic mesh virtually eliminates damage to pipes, and its cost is significantly lower.

After laying the mesh, the question of protecting the pipes again arises, because when moving in shoes on a metal mesh, you can easily damage both it and the pipe. Therefore, it is again recommended to move only on boards, plywood or OSB. But there is also a very smart solution that will avoid damage to pipes when pouring screed.

Getting ready cement mortar- the same as it will be when laying the screed (1 part M400 cement and 3 parts sand) and during the laying process, “lappers” are made from the solution, which protrude slightly beyond the surface of the mesh - 2 cm is enough. These “slips” are made at such a frequency (30-50 cm) that will allow you to later put boards or plywood on them and move around completely safely. Another advantage of this approach is the fixation of the mesh, because when walking on it it tends to bend, and this can damage the welds.

“Bands” from the solution will fix the mesh and help you move safely

Filling the contours. Hydraulic tests

This operation should definitely be carried out before pouring the screed, since in case of a hidden fault it is easier to eliminate it immediately than after the floors have been poured. To do this, a hose is connected to the drain pipe on the manifold and discharged into the sewer, since a lot of water will be spilled through the heating circuits. It is best if the hose is transparent - this will make it easy to track the release of air bubbles.

Connect to the input of the supply manifold, which must be equipped with a shut-off ball valve. tap water through a hose or pipe. If the quality of tap water is low, then it is worth filling the system through a mechanical filter. A pressure testing pump is connected to any other output connected to the underfloor heating circuits. This may be the free outlet of the supply manifold, the return outlet from the manifold, and other places - it all depends on the specific implementation of the collector unit. In the end, you can screw a tee into the ball shut-off valve of the supply manifold and use it to fill the system and perform pressure testing. After testing, the tee can be removed and the manifold connected to the supply line.

Filling the system is done as follows:

• On the collector, all the contours of the heated floor are covered, except for one. Automatic air vents must be open.
• Water is supplied and its purity and air output are monitored through the drain hose. On inner surface During pipe production, process grease and shavings may remain, which must be washed off with running water.
• After all the air has escaped and the water flows absolutely clean, turn off the drain valve, and then turn off the already flushed and filled circuit.
• All these operations are performed with all circuits.
• After flushing, removing air and filling all circuits, turn off the water supply valve.

If leaks are detected during the filling stage, they are eliminated immediately after the pressure is released. The result should be a system of warm water floors filled with clean coolant and de-aired.

To test the system you will need a special tool - a pressure testing pump, which can be rented or invited experienced craftsman having such a device. Let us describe the sequence of actions during crimping.

• All underfloor heating circuits connected to the collector are fully opened.
• Pour into the container of the pressure testing pump pure water, the pump supply valve opens.
• The pump builds up pressure in the system twice as high as the working pressure - 6 atmospheres; it is controlled by the pump pressure gauge and on the manifold (if it has a pressure gauge).
• After raising the pressure, a visual inspection of all pipes and connections is carried out, which, in principle, should only be on the manifold. The pressure is also monitored using a pressure gauge.
• After 30 minutes, the pressure is again raised to 6 bar and all pipes and connections are again inspected. Then after 30 minutes these steps are repeated. If leaks are detected, they are repaired immediately after releasing the pressure.
• If no leaks are detected, then the pressure is again raised to 6 bar and the system is left for a day.
• If after 24 hours the pressure in the system has dropped by no more than 1.5 bar and no leaks are detected, then the underfloor heating system can be considered correctly installed and sealed.

When the pressure in the system increases, the pipe, according to all the laws of physics, will try to straighten out, so it is possible to “shoot off” some staples in those places where they were “greedy” with them. Therefore, “blobs” from the solution will greatly help to hold the pipe in place. In the future, when the screed is poured, the pipe will be securely fixed, but during pressure tests, a poorly secured pipe can present unpleasant surprises.

Video: Filling the system with coolant

Video: Pressure testing of a heated floor system

Installation of beacons

The heated floor screed must be poured through pipes under operating pressure. Considering that in most closed systems For heating, the operating pressure should be in the range of 1-3 bar; you can take the average value and leave a pressure of 2 bar in the circuits.

It is best to use guides as beacons plasterboard profiles PN 28*27/UD 28*27. They have sufficient rigidity and a smooth top surface, which is very useful when leveling screeds.

Beacons should be installed at the level of the finished floor minus the thickness of the finishing floor covering. To secure them, very often they simply use mortar pads, on which a guide profile is laid, and then it is recessed according to the level. But this approach has the disadvantage that if the beacon falls below the required level, it has to be taken out, fresh solution added and set again.

It is best if the beacons made of a guide profile have a rigid support underneath, and concrete dowels and a screw of the appropriate length can serve as it. It is preferable to use special concrete screws - pins, which do not require the installation of a dowel, and, therefore, the drilling diameter will be smaller. If you need to drill a hole with a diameter of 10-12 mm for the dowel, then 6 mm is enough for the dowel. The top surface of the screw head should be level with the surface of the future screed.

Concrete screws - dowels

Beacons should be located at a distance of no more than 30 cm from the walls. There should not be a large distance between the beacons, since the solution tends to settle and a hole may form on the finished screed. Optimally - 1.5 m, then use screeds to level building code 2 m. When installing beacons, do the following:

• Two lines are drawn from the walls to the left and right of the entrance at a distance of 30 cm - this will be the position of the outer beacons.
• The distance between these two lines is divided into equal parts so that it does not exceed 150 cm. It is desirable that one of the stripes falls directly on the entrance to the room. If necessary, the strip at the entrance can be smaller.
• Lines for the position of future lighthouses are drawn on the floor. Marks are made on them for the location of the dowels in increments of 40-50cm.
• Using a hammer drill with a drill corresponding to the dowel, holes are drilled to a given depth.

To align the dowel heads in one plane, it is best to use a laser level. If the home craftsman doesn’t have it in his arsenal, then it doesn’t matter, now this one is quite useful tool You can rent it, especially since you only need it for one day.

Laser level — indispensable assistant when marking and installing beacons

The position of the beacons is marked on the wall. To do this, subtract the thickness of the finishing floor covering from the finished floor level previously drawn on the wall. The laser level is aligned to this mark, and then, by screwing or unscrewing the dowels, their caps are aligned at the same level. If you use a regular building level for this operation, it will take much longer, and the error will be higher.

Next, guide profiles are placed on the caps of the dowels, and the correct installation is checked with a building level. To fix the beacons in their places, use a cement mortar of the same recipe as for floor screed (1 part cement + 3 parts sand).

The beacons are removed from the dowel caps, and then slides are made from the prepared solution slightly higher than the height of the screed. It is enough to do them every 1 meter, since the beacon will already be securely fastened to the dowel caps. Next, the profile is laid and pressed into the solution, and its excess on top is immediately removed with a spatula. Finally, the level checks the correct installation of all beacons.

At the same time, you can check the correct installation of all damper tapes separating the rooms and contours and, if necessary, strengthen their position with a solution.

water heated floor

Video: Installation of beacons for underfloor heating screed

Pouring heated floor screed

Increased demands are placed on a heated water floor screed, because in addition to the mechanical loads it carries, it also experiences temperature deformations. And usually a cement-sand mortar will not work here; the concrete mixture must be modified with a plasticizer and fiber.

The plasticizer is designed to reduce the water-cement ratio, increase the mobility of the mixture and increase its strength when drying. Mobility when laying underfloor heating screed is extremely important, since the solution must tightly “grab” the pipes and easily release air bubbles out. Without using a plasticizer, the only way to increase the workability of the mixture is to add water to it. But then only part of the water will react with the cement, and the rest will evaporate for a long time, which will increase the setting and hardening time and reduce the strength of the screed. The water-cement ratio should be exactly the same as to allow the screed to set. Typically, 1 kg of cement requires 0.45-0.55 kg of water.

The plasticizer is available in liquid and dry form. It must be used exactly as the manufacturer recommends, and no other way. All sorts of “substitutes” in the form liquid soap, washing powder, PVA glue are not acceptable.

The fiber is intended for dispersed reinforcement of a concrete mixture, which allows one to significantly reduce or virtually eliminate the formation of cracks, increase strength and abrasion resistance, and increase bending and compressive strength. This is achieved by the fact that fiber microfibers are distributed and fasten the screed throughout the entire volume of the concrete mixture.

Fiber can be metal, polypropylene and basalt. To screed heated floors, it is recommended to use polypropylene or basalt fiber. It is added according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, but it is recommended to use at least 500 grams of polypropylene fiber per 1 m3 ready solution. To obtain a mixture with the best properties, add 800 or more grams per 1 m 3.

On sale you can find ready-made mixtures for pouring heated floor screeds from well-known and not so well-known manufacturers. These mixtures already contain a plasticizer, fiber, and other components. Despite their undoubted ease of use and high quality, the cost of the finished screed will be significantly higher than a solution prepared independently.

Before pouring the screed, it is necessary to remove all unnecessary objects from the floor and, if necessary, vacuum the surfaces. It is also necessary to prepare all the tools and utensils for mixing and transporting the solution. All work on pouring a heated floor screed in a room must be done at one time, so it is advisable to have two assistants: one prepares the solution, the second carries it, and the main person lays and levels the screed. All windows in the room must be closed, the screed must be limited from exposure to drafts and direct sunlight.

Independent preparation of a solution for screeding a heated floor should be done only by mechanization - the quality of the solution must be high. A concrete mixer or a construction mixer can be used as auxiliary mechanisms. No attachments for a drill or hammer drill will work here, no matter what various “truthful” sources say.

The basis of the solution is Portland cement of a grade not lower than M400, which must be dry and with a shelf life of no more than 6 months after the date of issue. The sand must also be dry, washed and sifted. River sand will not work - it is too regular in shape. For screed, the ratio of cement to sand should be 1:3 by weight, but in practice, few people weigh sand and cement, and a universal measurement method is used - a bucket. Considering that the density construction sand is in the range of 1.3-1.8 t/m 3, and for cement during transportation 1.5-1.6 t/m 3, then you can not be afraid to measure cement and sand in buckets, since the quality of the mixture will be quite acceptable.

The water in the solution should be approximately a third of the mass of cement, that is, for 1 bag of 50 kg of cement, approximately 15 liters of water are needed. However, the use of a plasticizer reduces the water-cement ratio, so when preparing a solution with water you need to be very careful - it is better to underfill a little and then add it, rather than overfill it.

The technology for preparing the solution with a mixer and a concrete mixer is slightly different. Using a mixer, you need to mix dry cement, sand and fluffed polypropylene or basalt fiber at low speeds and then gradually add water with a plasticizer dissolved in it. In gravity-type concrete mixers, which absolute majority, it is difficult to mix dry cement and sand (dry cement sticks to wet blades and drums), so first pour some water with a plasticizer into it, and then gradually add first cement, then sand, then another portion of cement and the remaining water. Fiber is added gradually. One part with water, the other with sand. In this case, the fiber cannot be thrown into the drum of a concrete mixer in a lump, but must be divided into portions and fluffed before loading.

The time for preparing the solution in a concrete mixer is usually 3-4 minutes, and with a mixer it is a little longer - 5-7 minutes. The readiness of the solution is determined by its uniform color and consistency. If you take a lump of solution in your hands and squeeze it, no water should come out of it, but at the same time the solution should be plastic. If you place the solution in a heap on the floor, it should not spread much, but only settle a little under its own weight. If you make cuts in it with a spatula, they should not blur, but should hold their shape.

Laying the screed begins from the far corners of the room and is carried out in strips along the beacons. Only after completing one strip, the next one is laid and leveled; the process should end at the entrance to the room. During the leveling process, there is no need to immediately try to perfectly level the surface of the screed along the beacons. The main thing is that there are no dips in the screed, and small sagging and marks from the rule can be easily corrected later.

After 1-2 days (it all depends on external conditions), when you can already walk on the screed, you need to clean its surface. First, the damper tape protruding from the screed is cut with a construction knife and the damper tape protruding from the screed is removed, and then the construction rule is taken and the sharp end is pressed against the plane of the beacons. In the direction away from you, with short but energetic movements, stripping is done until the beacons are completely exposed. Then the resulting debris is removed, the screed is moistened with a spray bottle and covered with plastic wrap.

The next day, the beacons are carefully removed, the pins can be unscrewed, and the resulting grooves are rubbed with mortar or tile adhesive. The screed is moistened and covered again; it is recommended to do this daily for the first 10 days after pouring.

Balancing the contours of a warm floor. Commissioning

After the screed has fully matured, which is at least 28 days, you can begin to balance the contours of the heated floor. And manifold flow meters will help a lot in this process. That is why it is necessary to purchase a manifold with balancing valves and flow meters.

The fact is that the loops of the heated floor have different lengths, and accordingly they have different hydraulic resistance. It is obvious that the “lion’s share” of the coolant will always follow the path of least resistance - that is, along the shortest circuit, while others will get much less. In this case, in the longest circuit the circulation will be so sluggish that there can be no talk of any heat removal. A well-designed underfloor heating project always indicates the flow rate in each circuit and the position of the control valves, but if the underfloor heating is done on your own, then a simplified but effective method will do.

• If the pumping and mixing unit has not yet been connected, then it is being installed. The underfloor heating collector is connected to the supply and return lines.
• All circuits of the heated floor are opened completely, the supply and return ball valves of the manifolds are opened at the inlet. Automatic air vent valves must be open.
• The circulation is turned on. The maximum temperature is set on the head of the mixing unit, but the boiler does not turn on yet; the coolant must circulate at room temperature.
• The pressure in the entire heating system is brought to working pressure (1-3 bar).
• All contours of the heated floor are closed, except for the longest one. The position of the flow meter on this circuit is noted and recorded.
• The second longest circuit opens completely. If the flow rate in it is greater, then the balancing valve is tightened until the flow rate is equal to the longest one.

• Next, all circuits are opened sequentially in descending order of their length, and the flow is regulated by balancing valves.
• As a result, the flow rate in all circuits should be the same. If this is not the case, then you can adjust the adjustment on the contours without touching the longest loop.

All of the above operations are performed correctly and the flow meters show that circulation in the circuits is occurring, then you can begin testing the heated floor with heated coolant. You need to start with low temperatures - from 25°C, and then every day gradually increase the temperature by 5°C, until the coolant is supplied to the circuits at its operating temperature. What is the sequence of actions at this stage.

• The temperature on the thermostatic valve of the mixing unit is set to 25°C, the circulation pump is turned on at first speed, and the system is allowed to operate in this mode for a day. At the same time, the circulation through the flow meters is controlled and adjusted.
• After a day, the temperature rises to 30°C, and the underfloor heating system is left on again for a day. The flow and temperature of the supply and return are controlled.
• The next day the temperature rises another 5°C, to 35°C. This is much closer to the operating mode of a heated floor, so it is already worth adjusting the temperature difference between the supply and return collectors. If it is in the range of 5-10°C, then this is normal, but if it is more, then the speed of the circulation pump should be increased by one step.
• The maximum temperature to which you can raise the temperature in the heated floor supply manifold is 50°C, but it is better not to do this, but check it at operating modes - 45°C or 40°C. The temperature difference between the supply and return is checked in the same way. The pump must operate at the lowest possible speed to maintain a temperature difference of up to 10°C.

The correct adjustment of the heated floor cannot be assessed immediately, since such a heating system is very inertial. It may take several hours to feel a change in temperature. Therefore, anyone who has made a heated floor on their own should arm themselves with patience and gradually bring the system to a mode that would ensure the desired floor temperature taking into account the coating. To do this, you will need to “play around” with the settings of the balancing valves, thermal heads (if the collector is equipped with them) and the speed of the circulation pump. The main thing is that the water heated floor system, made by yourself, works.

Find out how by studying the instructions with photos in a special article on our portal.

Conclusion

Stubborn statistics show that the system of warm water floors, in addition to obvious comfort, also provides significant energy savings. The same statistics indicate that the number of successful independent implementations of such heating is growing every year. All technologies have already been developed, the market is flooded with any components for every taste, color and budget. The necessary information is always available in open sources; you can always ask experts for advice. The team of authors hopes that this article dispelled the initial fear and made it clear to readers that it is quite possible to make a water-heated floor with your own hands.

Video: How to calculate and make a water heated floor with your own hands

This method of heating rooms, such as water floor heating, has long been firmly established in our lives among other methods, and has gained considerable popularity. Its essence is that the coolant warms the entire area of ​​the floor covering, thereby ensuring a comfortable temperature in the room.

There is another type of this heating method - electric heated floors, although they are less common. The reason is simple: you can heat water using different methods using different coolants, but with electric heating there is no such choice, and in the event of a power outage, the heat in the house will disappear. In any case, electric and water floor heating systems do not lose their relevance today.

Underfloor heating: advantages and disadvantages

Surely no one will argue with the fact that the underfloor heating system is the best of all existing ones. If we take a traditional radiator system for comparison and air heating at home, then heating the floors has advantages over them:

1. Economical. The coolant temperature in the circuits rarely reaches 50-55 ºС, while in other systems it can reach 95 ºС. Accordingly, heating water to 50 ºС will require lower costs.
2. Comfort. During the cold season, there is nothing more pleasant for a person than the feeling of warmth in the legs.
3. Uniform distribution of heat flow throughout the room.
4. Each water floor heating system is inertial. After a long “acceleration”, the screeds heated by the water circuits release heat slowly and long after the energy source is turned off.
5. Long-lasting operation. The result of correctly performed work from materials High Quality The system will operate for up to 50 years.

You can install heating circuits anywhere in your home, even water heated floors on the balcony.

Distribution of air masses in the room by temperature during use in various ways heating

Despite all the advantages, heating a house with heated floors has some disadvantages that deserve attention. For example, there is a misconception that such a heating device will completely rid you of radiators. In some cases this is indeed possible, but not always.

The fact is that to heat a room, it is necessary that each m2 of floor area emit approximately 100 W of thermal energy. If the house is well insulated, then for such heat release the surface temperature must be at least 35 ºС, in other cases – 40 ºС and higher. The graph below shows statistics on what proportion of people and how they react to an increase in floor surface temperature.

As can be seen from the graph, the comfort zone for most people lies within the temperature range from 20 to 30 ºС. When water heating in the floor heats it over the entire area to a temperature of 35 ºС and above, then at least 60% of people feel discomfort.

For reference. Regulatory documentation regulating sanitary and hygienic standards in buildings for various purposes (SNiP 41–01-2003 “Heating and Ventilation”, clause 6.5.12) clearly states that the surface temperature in rooms with constant occupancy cannot exceed 26 ºС, and with temporary stay – 31 ºС.

From the above, the conclusion is the following: if heating under the floor from pipes heats its surface to a temperature of 26 ºС, then the heat transfer will not reach 100 W/m2. Then the thermal power of the system will not be enough and you will still have to install additional small radiators.

The second significant drawback, arising from the design features of the system and the labor costs for their implementation, is the fairly high price of underfloor heating with water heating. In addition to heating circuits, you will need equipment and fittings to regulate the coolant and pump it through the pipelines of these circuits.

Advice. In order not to have to deal with additional laying of branches for water heating devices, it is worth considering other heat sources, for example, local air supply units with air heating, long wave infrared emitters, electric or gas convectors.

How to calculate the power of a heated floor

Since floor heating in a private house or apartment is an expensive thing, its installation should be approached with the utmost seriousness. If, if you have certain skills, you can perform construction and installation work yourself, then to develop a diagram and carefully calculate it, it is recommended to contact specialists in this field. They will also help produce commissioning works in accordance with calculations.

If you have the desire and time to figure it out on your own, then first of all you should know that calculating the power of a heated floor begins with selecting the diameter of the pipe for the heating circuits, then you need to find the step of its installation and determine the number of these circuits. At this point, all calculations of the required power of the heating system must be made and the values ​​of the thermal power for each room of the building must be obtained.

For example, the value of a ceramic tile floor area is 10 m2, and the required power is 981 W. Then the required heat flow will be 98.1 W/m2; from this value it is necessary to find out the surface temperature, which will ensure water heating of the floor under the tiles. This can be done using a nomogram.

It can be seen that a heat transfer value of 100 W/m2 corresponds to a temperature of 28.8 ºС. In our case, this is unacceptable, since people are constantly in the room, which means we need 26 ºС. This value corresponds to a heat transfer of 68 W/m2, and the remaining 100 - 68 = 32 W/m2 will have to be supplied to the room in other ways. How to use the nomogram is shown below.

In this example, the suitable pitch for laying the heating circuit pipes is 0.3 m, according to which the average calculated temperature difference is 19.5 ºС, which corresponds to the temperature curve of the coolant – 45 / 35 ºС. It remains to find out the length of the pipe, for normal operation system, its length cannot exceed 100 m. The formula is simple.

Pipe length = room area / pipe laying pitch.

If the value exceeds 100 m, then the area must be divided into 2 parts and two heating circuits must be calculated, otherwise the hydraulic resistance will be too large and the heat transfer will be uneven. The heat transfer of a surface depends on the types of flooring, so nomograms are shown below for convenience, which will help calculate heated floors for laminate and linoleum.

Note. A detailed calculation of the power of underfloor heating is presented in an understandable manner in the book by V.V. Pokotilov “Water Heating Systems”.

Let us immediately make a reservation that the technology for installing water floors for heating differs in the following cases:

• work is carried out from the ground level, from the soil layer;
• installation takes place from the basement or rough concrete screed;
• water floor in an apartment or on the 2-3 floor of a private house.

The differences will be highlighted during the review of work technology. When the device starts from the ground, it should be compacted and a rough concrete screed should be completed according to all the rules. Ideally, the screed should gain strength within three weeks, but since during installation the loads will be significantly lower than the calculated ones, you can wait 3-5 days, after which you need to make a waterproofing layer on top. The result should be a smooth surface without drops or other rough irregularities.

Next, the installation of water heating in a private house or apartment will be described using the technology of the AQUATHERM company, which is one of the leaders in the market of underfloor heating systems. General scheme"pie" is presented below.

Water heating device inside the floor

First, the walls are covered with an elastic damper strip along the entire perimeter; it allows future heating plates to expand within 5 mm in each direction. Thermal insulation is laid on top of the waterproofing film, usually high-density polystyrene foam. With increased fire safety requirements for floors, slabs made of basalt fiber should be used as a thermal insulation material.

If water heating is being installed in a private house on the ground floor, then the thickness of the insulation layer is taken according to calculation, but not less than 50 mm. In the case when work is carried out in an apartment above the first floor or on the upper floors of a cottage, the thickness can be reduced to 20-40 mm, since the temperature difference between apartments is small.

It is recommended to lay a special layer on top of the thermal insulation layer. plastic film with markings, it is more convenient to lay out and install pipes using it. The material is rolled out with an overlap of 80 mm, after which the joints are taped.

If subsequently increased static or dynamic loads on the floors are expected in the room (heavy furniture, equipment, etc.), then it is recommended to lay meshes of reinforcement with a diameter of 5 mm on top of the insulation, and attach the pipes to them with plastic clamps.

Metal-plastic or other pipes for heated floors are attached to the insulation with special plastic brackets, the layout is carried out in calculated increments according to a pre-agreed scheme, of which there are several to choose from.

Pipe layout options

At the same time, the bending radii of the pipes must be observed so as not to damage their structure; for each type of pipeline, this data will be provided by the sales representative.

The AQUATHERM company offers for its systems not metal-plastic materials, but pipes made of polyethylene and polybutylene with a diameter of 14, 16, 17 and 20 mm with a minimum bending radius of 80 mm.

From the home boiler installation, the coolant is supplied to a rod distributor assembled complete with a circulation pump. This mixing unit ensures the required temperature and movement of the coolant in all heating elements; it is used to distribute heated floors throughout the rooms. If necessary, the distributor can regulate the room climate based on signals room thermostats, in its simplest form it maintains the temperature in the supply pipe using a clamp-on sensor.

Important! It is prohibited to connect the central water heating of apartments to the floor heating distributor. This will unbalance the entire riser and as a result everyone will be cold. Connection is only possible to an individual boiler.

After securely fastening the pipes and checking them for tightness (pressure testing), the installation of heated floors continues with the installation of a sand-cement screed, the thickness of which is within 100 mm, the layer of mortar above the top of the pipe is provided with a thickness of 50-55 mm. The screed is kept until it hardens, and during setting, false seams are made in it (between the contours of one room) and deformation seams (at the joints of slabs different rooms). Lastly, the coating is laid, after which only commissioning and balancing of the system remains.

Conclusion

Warm water floors are not a cheap pleasure; at all stages of work on their installation, responsible work remains. But the result will be significant savings (up to 30%) and a high level of comfort in your home.

It's no secret that room heating technologies are very widespread today, and engineers pay great attention to this issue. So, in this publication we will look at the advantages and disadvantages of underfloor heating, its types and installation and installation technology.

What you need to know about underfloor heating:

Underfloor heating systems

Underfloor heating is a type of heating in which the coolant circulation system is located under the floor.

As you know, the most common type of heating is wall heating, in particular using batteries. This type of heating has a number of disadvantages, one of them is that the room is heated unevenly and not rationally. The fact is that heat tends upward, and it turns out that the warmest places in the room are the part near the radiator and the ceiling, and from these zones the heat spreads throughout the rest of the room. Many will say that, despite such irrationality, the apartment is already warm enough - we don’t deny it, but it could be even warmer, or more economical in terms of resource costs.

In turn, underfloor heating is more efficient, since heat transfer goes from the bottom up, spreading over the entire area of ​​the room, besides, you have a warm floor on which you can walk barefoot, but there will be no radiator on which you can hang things to dry. The maximum heat area is just the height of a person, thereby creating the most comfortable conditions for the inhabitants, and does not heat the ceiling.

Underfloor heating has its pros and cons, some of which we have already discussed. Among the advantages it should be noted:

• • Rational heat distribution;

• • Economical;

• • Warm floor;

• • Aesthetic beauty, since communications pass under the floor.

As for the disadvantages of underfloor heating:

• • The coldest area of ​​the room – the window – will be without heating;

• • It will not be possible to dry things on the radiator;

• • The labor-intensive process of laying underground communications;

• • Expensive type of heating.

Underfloor heating is an excellent option for those residents who do not like carpets and prefer to walk barefoot. In addition, underfloor heating is an excellent heating solution for an apartment located on the ground floor, above a damp and cold basement. If you are making a complete replacement of heating with autonomous heating, then you might want to think about floor view heating.

Types of underfloor heating

We should also touch upon the types of underfloor heating. If there are a lot of types of heating, then there are only two types of underfloor heating: water and electric.

As the name implies, water heating is based on the circulation of water coolant inside floor communications. The essence of water underfloor heating is that a pipe is laid under the floor through which hot water, heated to desired temperature gas or electric boiler. And one more nuance, floor heating is autonomous, that is, making a branch from the centralized heating system for floor heating is illegal, and also impractical. In the next article you will find out.

The second type of underfloor heating is electric. This type of heating is known to many as “warm floors”. This heating system is based on special electric heating sections; they can be cable or. These methods are an excellent alternative to water heating.

Below we will briefly tell you how to properly install underfloor heating with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself underfloor heating installation

An integral part of solving the heating issue is thermal insulation and heat conservation. That is why these factors must be taken into account before installing underfloor heating.

First, you need to eliminate heat leakage, and the most common areas for heat leakage are windows and walls. First of all, it is necessary to install plastic windows, and it is important to pay attention to strict adherence to the installation technology, since its violation can lead to heat loss. No less important is the finishing of window slopes from the outside and inside, again to eliminate blowing. Also, if you insulate the walls, the increase in heat savings will be quite high.

Now let's touch on the floor installation procedure itself.

Installation of underfloor heating

First of all, when installing underfloor heating, you need to prepare the base. In accordance with the rules for laying underfloor heating, the base must be smooth, without bumps or other irregularities. First you need to check the floor level and, if necessary, level it. When the floor is dropped, we move on to laying the heat-insulating material, which is necessary so that the heat goes up and does not heat the floor slab. The next step will be choosing the location of the thermostat and the supply of communications - for electric underfloor heating, or where the pipes and taps will come from - for water heating. Further, the procedure for installing the heating system of these two types differs from each other, and we will consider each of them separately.

Installation of water underfloor heating

Let's first find out how best to install underfloor water heating. The installation of water heating begins with the organization of the coolant supply location. To do this, it is necessary to make appropriate holes in the wall to supply pipes and install taps on them. For this, we recommend making a special niche-cabinet that will cover all these so-called coolant supply mechanisms.

Then, on the leveled floor, on which the heat insulator is laid, a special mesh is laid, which will serve as the basis for attaching the pipe. The pipe itself is folded in half and laid on the floor, secured to the base with ties. It is important to note that the pipe must be folded in half and laid exactly this way, since it is necessary to ensure that the coolant water is removed from the system. The pipes are laid in a spiral; there should be no kinks, otherwise this will significantly reduce the permeability of the coolant.

When the water underfloor heating system is installed, it is necessary to ensure that it is correct installation, and then connect it to the supply and return taps. A test run of the system is done to check the permeability of the pipes and the presence of leaks. Then the temperature of the coolant increases and at the same time the intensity, that is, the pressure of the water supply in the system, increases. The final stage of installing underfloor heating is pouring it using a self-leveling floor, followed by laying the finishing floor material.

This is how you install underfloor water heating with your own hands, now let’s talk about electric underfloor heating.

Installation of electric underfloor heating

An electric floor is installed in principle using the same technology as a water floor, but has some nuances. The coolant is also laid on a leveled floor and on laid thermal insulation material. The installation of coolant begins from the thermostat.

When laying electric underfloor heating, the rolls are rolled out from one wall to the other, and in order to save money, you can bypass those places where a wardrobe, bed and other furniture will be installed, under which heating is not needed. Having reached the wall, a few centimeters before it begins, you need to cut the coolant base without damaging the so-called contour (how to cut correctly will be clearly demonstrated in the instructions). After this, the insulation tape is laid parallel to the first, close to it.

When the coolant is laid, check the correct installation and connect it. Then carry out a test run - if everything works, then we will lay the finishing floor covering.

Now, based on the information received, you can choose the most optimal type of underfloor heating and install it correctly.

Any normal resident can figure out what to do to improve the cottage system. Everyone knows that heat sources are constantly becoming more expensive. In every part of the Russian Federation it is necessary to heat a house in winter. It is difficult to imagine the life of a person in the Russian Federation without a heating complex for a dacha. Our web portal contains a wide variety of home heating systems that use exclusively different heating methods. Each heating system can be used as an independent system or combined.

Scheme for supplying coolant to water-heated floors (option):

1. Heating circuit.

2. Distribution comb.

3. Ball valve.

4. Distribution cabinet.

7. Electric pump thermostat.

double

Today, companies offer three types of heated floors depending on the type of heating: electricity; hot water; hot air (hypercaust systems). The growing need for such floors in our country has its own motivating reasons. Firstly, this is the already mentioned global trend towards increasing the comfort of housing, supported in Russia by the growth of cottage construction. Secondly, the housing and communal services reform that has begun, aimed, in particular, at energy saving.

Experts have confirmed that a person feels most comfortable when the air temperature near the floor reaches +22. +25°C, and at head level +18. +20°C, that is, when your feet are warmer than your head. This temperature distribution is best achieved by underfloor heating. A well-designed system can save up to 20% of energy resources. Uniform heating of the floor eliminates the formation of concentrated heat flows, which means the occurrence of drafts and dust circulation. Since radiators, risers and pipes are removed from the room, the architect and designer have opportunities for new planning solutions. It is also important that cleaning the premises is significantly easier.

Our sad experience of using central heating does not make it easy to believe in the benefits of such floors. What if there is a leak or a clogged pipe? What if the hot water supply turns off in winter? What, hack all the floors? Why take risks if you know about electrically heated floors - leaks and freezing are not a problem for them! Let's try to clarify the situation.

First of all, we note that for these floors they use durable plastic (polymer) or metal-polymer oxygen-tight pipes, which are completely resistant to corrosion. Such pipes for each heating circuit are laid from a coil without intermediate connections, in one piece. This eliminates the possibility of leaks under the floor. The autonomous heating system, which heats the floor, is made with a closed coolant circulation cycle. Therefore, it can be filled with antifreeze or special additives can be added to the water, such as ethylene glycol, which are not afraid of frost. If the system is filled with plain water, an additional device is provided for emergency drainage, for example a small compressor or a cylinder for blowing pipes with compressed air.

For water-heated floors, especially when small areas premises, metal-polymer pipes are best suited. Among them, the best are those whose metal core is made in the form of a seamless pipe or does not have an “overlapping” seam, since they can be bent repeatedly in the same area with a small bend radius equal to three values ​​of the outer diameter of the pipe (for other types of pipes - 5-8 diameters).

However, when independent choice and the purchase of pipes cannot be guided only by reference data and, even more so, by principles such as “more expensive-cheaper” or “liked-disliked”. It is necessary to coordinate the temperature and pressure of the coolant with the parameters of the pipe so as to ensure a service life of the pipes of at least 50 years, and the temperature of the coolant with heat loss in the house. If the house was like a sieve, the floor would have to be heated greatly. Therefore, doctors introduced their own restrictions: it is impossible to walk on the floor, as if on a hot stove. Thus, the temperature of the floor surface should not exceed certain values ​​(ISO 7730 standard): in living rooms +26 (29) ° C, in the bathroom + 30 ° C, by the pool and in basements + 32 ° C, and so that the bare foot does not feel temperature difference, the spacing of the heating circuit pipes should not be more than 0.35 m.

Typically, the required coolant temperature is in the range from +35 to +55°C. To ensure this, it is necessary to mix the hot water supplied from the boiler with the water leaving the circuit, which has already cooled slightly. This operation is controlled automatically using thermostat valves. It is their work that determines success or failure in creating the desired indoor climate. Only a few companies produce such valves, designed specifically for underfloor heating systems: OVENTROP (Germany), HERZ (Austria), TA-HYDRONICS (Sweden). The use of universal thermostats suitable for any heating systems is often justified - it all depends on the conditions of their use.

It is also very useful to think in advance about what the finished floor covering will be and what load it will bear. Thus, the desire to make the floor carpet rather than tiled will require increasing the temperature of the coolant by 4-5 ° C, which means it will increase energy costs by at least 15-25%. Every extra 10 mm of screed thickness increases the required energy consumption by 5-8%.

Capital costs for installing water-heated floors amount to $40-45 per 1 m2 of room area. This is almost double the cost of electrically heated floors. What makes people go to such expense? Firstly, with water-heated floors you don’t have to worry about protection from electromagnetic fields and obtaining the required high power supply (up to 30-50 kW per cottage). Secondly, with the current ratio of the cost of hot water and electricity, capital costs for water-heated floors will pay off in 7-12 years, and then (and the floor is designed for 50 years) heating with water-heated floors will be cheaper. However, electrically heated floors are preferable in homes with central heating and where there is a danger of freezing of pipelines: ground floors, basements, garages, etc.

● circulation pump;

● thermal insulation materials;

● heating boiler;

● fasteners, manifolds and fittings;

● control valves and shut-off ball valves.

You can not only install such a heating system yourself, but also make preliminary calculations. If the main source of heat is exclusively a water floor, then it is better to order the project from specialists.

Varieties

Water heating, which is installed on a plane, can be concrete or flooring. The first type involves the installation of a heated floor using a concrete screed, and the second - without it. Flooring must be laid on special aluminum plates, pre-coated with polystyrene padding, or on a wooden floor, as well as on pre-installed joists. But still, concrete screed is considered more common and popular.

Connection

The simplest diagram for connecting a heated floor should look like this: the first collector connects the water supply pipelines, and the second, in turn, the return flow. They are connected to the pipes with the coolant itself. This option has one significant drawback - the temperature of the water coming from the boiler is simply impossible to regulate.

The maximum that can be done is to close the shut-off valves, but this does not solve the problem itself. It is known that some floor decorative coverings spoil if heated to more than 30 ⁰C. Therefore, it is still advisable to provide temperature control.

In order for the heating floor connection diagram to be complete, it is necessary to add several additional elements, such as a three-way mixer or pump-mixing unit, a circular pump, an air vent and a drain valve.

In addition, instead of shut-off valves, it is better to install thermostatic mixers. By changing the size of the paraffin rod, it allows the tap's throughput to function without sudden changes.

The presence of a pumping and mixing unit in the circuit is also necessary. It adds chilled water to the supply when it needs to reduce its overall temperature so that it does not exceed permissible limits.

It is worth paying special attention to the installation of the mixing pump. It must be located between the supply pipe and the supply manifold. The liquid outlet from the output manifold is connected to its third output. This allows the pump to withdraw some of the chilled water and add it to the supply.

Installation procedure

Before you begin work on installing the system, you need to know the sequence of how to make a heated floor from heating according to all existing rules.

The installation procedure consists of several main stages:

● establishing a collection group;

● leveling the floor surface and its preliminary preparation;

● laying pipelines for the future heating system;

● temperature regulation.

Collector group

Work on the installation of floor water heating begins with the installation of a manifold cabinet, which should be located at the same distance from the end consumers. For example, if the heated floor will be located in two rooms, then the box should be placed in the middle between them.

To ensure that the manifold cabinet does not spoil the interior of the room, it is hidden inside the wall. During the preparatory activities, a special niche is made using a grinder or a hammer drill. Its size should be slightly larger than the dimensions of the cabinet, and it should be placed near the floor.

The auxiliary water floor system consists of a certain number of pipelines. They are joined in a manifold cabinet and drawn from the main heating system. The box must contain both shut-off and control valves.

After installing the manifold cabinet, the supply and return pipelines are inserted into it. The first one carries hot water from central system, and according to the second, it returns already cooled. At the ends of these pipelines, shut-off valves are installed in the form of valves or ball valves, which right time you can turn off the water supply. The transition between them is a special compression fitting.

All the constituent elements of the manifold cabinet are connected to a rail with outlet pipes, to which the pipelines forming the circuit stretch. As you can see in the photo, the heating floor connection diagram is quite simple, so it can be done without the help of a specialist.

Preliminary floor preparation

First of all, you need to check the horizontal plane on which the heating system will be located. Warm water floors are laid only on a previously prepared and leveled surface. And this stage of work should not be neglected. The uniformity of heating directly depends on the same layer of screed over the entire surface of the floor.

After leveling, they begin laying the waterproofing layer. Then a special damper tape is glued to the walls around the perimeter of the room, which can compensate for the linear expansion of the screed or heated floor. The excess is cut off.

"Heated floor (water)" heating is installed only using heat-insulating mats made from materials such as aerated concrete, velotherm, technical jam, mineral wool or polystyrene foam. They prevent heat loss.

Installation

At this stage, they are fixing the heating circuit pipelines. The most popular method is to lay and fasten pipes to a special masonry mesh made of metal and laid on insulation. The pipeline is fixed to it using a binding wire.

If the thermal circuit exceeds the length of 70 m, then a second one is made. The pipeline is always carried out according to this principle - from colder zones (windows and doorways) to the warmest zones.

Examination

Hydraulic tests of already laid pipes are carried out only before they begin to fill them with cement-sand mortar. They are considered successful if no leaks appear in the pipeline at a water pressure of 6 atmospheres. The time required for the concrete floor to dry completely is at least 10 days. Only if all installation conditions are met, water heating will be as efficient, reliable and durable as possible.

Adjustment

The temperature of water floor heating can be adjusted in two ways: manual and automatic. The first is carried out using a ball valve, and the second - by electric drives. It must be said that automatic adjustment is the most effective for water heating.

When building a new house, the question inevitably arises about what type of heating to choose. Considering all the pros and cons various types heating rooms, you can come to the only correct decision, that a better system than water-heated floors simply cannot be found. In addition, it can be connected to almost any heat source that uses various energy sources. And since it’s not at all difficult to make a warm floor from heating yourself, you can also save a decent amount of money.