Finishing with siding is an excellent solution for any building: be it a workshop or a private home. Not only the walls began to be “dressed” in this wonderful material.
The cornice projections could not help but pay tribute to fashion and common sense.
Types of siding panels
Wood siding
This type of siding looks very aesthetically pleasing and expensive. It is easy to install and does not require additional products.
But... The cornice tends to collect condensation. Therefore, wooden products will be constantly exposed to moisture.
And since the cornice is located on the street, the temperature effect also takes place. These two factors will inevitably lead to the destruction of wood.
Metal siding
Because it’s not entirely profitable to line a cornice with wood siding, let’s try something different.
Metal is a very durable and trustworthy material. But due to the same condensation, it begins to rust, even despite the galvanized layer.
As a result, red rust spots are visible. Aesthetics are lost, and along with it the strength of the structure is lost.
You can, of course, purchase a copper profile. It is resistant to corrosion and has a beautiful, noble shade. But before you line the cornice with this type of siding, it’s worth remembering the price. And she is relatively tall.
Vinyl siding
Both previous options are also distinguished by a fairly high price. Vinyl siding is more widely used in construction, largely due to its moisture resistance.
The polyvinyl chloride from which this type of siding is made has:
- sufficient strength;
- moisture and heat resistance;
- pleasant pricing policy;
- variety of colors;
- ease of installation;
- installation does not require multi-line instructions;
It should be taken into account that the siding itself, as such, is not suitable for finishing eaves. For this purpose, special products have been created - spotlights.
These are perforated or blind PVC panels that are designed to protect the building's eaves from excess moisture.
There are several types of soffits, differing in the degree of perforation:
- without perforation;
- with partial perforation;
- with full perforation;
Perforation serves to ventilate the eaves space. In order for the siding covering of the eaves to be selected correctly, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the project. Based engineering solution the cornice assembly, you can determine the degree of its possible moisture.
Also, using the project, you can choose the color of the product that will be used to finish the eaves with siding.
The most popular are soffits with combined perforation. They promote ventilation well, while preventing moisture from penetrating inside.
Good ventilation is especially important in wooden houses. Excess condensation causes wood to rot, which affects its load-bearing capacity. Metal carcass moisture will also not be spared. Rust will not only “eat” usable area elements, and will spoil appearance buildings.
In a warm attic space, it is more advisable to line the overhangs with solid soffits. They will prevent cold air from penetrating inside and protect the roof from moisture from the outside.
Fully perforated panels provide enhanced ventilation. In this case, the entire panel contributes to the movement air masses. This type of panel is used for roofs with a continuous, non-ventilated deck. For example, for roofs made of bitumen shingles or roofs covered with rolled materials.
Mounting points
In order for the lining of the cornice with siding to proceed correctly and produce the necessary aesthetic effect, you need to know several subtleties.
Types of pairing of load-bearing roof elements
Sheathing by tightening
In this case, the tie rod or the lower chord of the truss can serve as the lower part of the roof structure. In any case, it is necessary to determine the pitch of the trusses.
The approximate pitch of the structures will be 500-800 mm. The panel length is approximately 3m. After carrying out simple calculations, you can determine that the panel will have to be cut at the fastening points.
To check the flatness of the bottom plane load-bearing structures you need to pull the thread along them. The thread is stretched along the extreme points of the cornice. If in some place the elevation marks do not correspond, they must be aligned. Alignment of heights occurs by stuffing slats.
Sheathing along the rafter leg
This is the most common solution for cornice. In this case, it is necessary to check whether the trimming of the rafters corresponds to the same level.
To secure the cornice, two strips measuring approximately 100x40 mm are needed. One of them is attached to rafter leg, the second to the wall of the building. The bottom of the planks should be at the same level. The planks can be fastened with nails.
If the roof slope is small, then the overhang is gentle. Based on architectural expressiveness, you can hem the overhang directly along the rafters. This option will save time and timber. Only now, you will need a little more siding than for the horizontal version.
Enlarged cornice
In some cases it is necessary to widen the cornice line. This is especially true for reconstructed buildings. In such buildings, it is necessary to hide the elements that tighten the house or reinforcement elements. How to cover the cornice with siding in this case?
For such cases, an additional supporting frame is attached to the rafters and the wall.
The eaves siding is directly attached to such a cantilever structure. The bottom of such a cornice is sheathed with a perforated panel, for better ventilation. The side of the structure is covered with ordinary façade panels.
Siding – modern construction material, which are panels for cladding building facades. It serves to protect the building from various external influences, as well as for decorative purposes. Siding consists of strips 0.1-0.5 meters wide, 2-6 meters long and 1-10 millimeters thick.
What kind of siding is there?
There are three main types of siding:
- vinyl;
- metal;
- wood.
Vinyl siding is the most common. It has a lower cost than metal and is more practical than wood. Vinyl siding is PVC panels that can be painted various colors. This material is immune to various influences and has a low cost.
In harsh weather conditions It is better to use metal siding. It can easily withstand temperatures from -50 to +60 degrees without losing its properties, but it is more expensive than vinyl panels.
Various types of siding are increasingly used for cladding building facades, roof eaves and other construction work. Siding is easy to work with; installation can be done independently, without resorting to the services of specialists.
How to choose siding
The most popular type of siding is vinyl. It has the following advantages:
- strength and resistance to deformation;
- light weight;
- ease of installation;
- resistance to high and low temperatures;
- environmental friendliness;
- durability;
- variety of colors;
- low price;
- resistance to combustion, atmospheric and chemical influences.
When purchasing siding panels, it is important to pay attention to the cut thickness; it should be equal in each section of the panel. In addition, a sign of high-quality siding is uniform painting. If the coloring is uneven, then such siding may fade in the sun, or the paint will crumble. It is better to choose siding with a matte surface, as it is less susceptible to fading.
Holes for self-tapping screws must be located strictly on the same line and have same size. It is advisable to check a small piece of siding for plasticity before purchasing. If it breaks easily or cracks at the bend, then the material is of poor quality. Such panels will be easily damaged during installation. It is advisable to choose components from the same manufacturer as the siding panels.
Do-it-yourself siding on the eaves of a house
To cover the facade, as a rule, special siding is used - soffit. He is special panels with profile strips that can be attached to any surface. The soffit can be metal or made of PVC. There are solid and perforated soffits. To cover eaves in residential buildings, perforated siding is most often used to cover eaves. When covering cornices, it is imperative to take into account air circulation and not disturb it.
To make ventilated sheathing, you can proceed in several ways:
- Leave a gap of 0.5-1.5 cm between the sheathing and the wall;
- You can use special ventilation grates. Their use is only possible with metal siding or lining;
- If soffits are used, they must be perforated.
Vinyl soffit is the most popular material for sheathing eaves. When working with it, you need to consider the following points:
- The material should be stored in places where it is not exposed to direct sunlight;
- To fasten the panels you do not need to exert much effort;
- You should not drive nails into the soffits by recessing them;
- Nails are driven only into special holes.
Frame design
Covering the eaves with siding with your own hands begins with the construction of the frame. For its arrangement it is used edged board 40 mm thick. It is attached between the rafters and the wall of the house. To fix the frame along the wall of the house, a transverse board is attached. You can use timber instead.
If sheathing the roof eaves with siding is done simultaneously with insulation, you need to do it first. The greatest attention should be paid to the lower part of the roof eaves. The frame must be level around the entire perimeter of the house.
In order for the frame to have right angles, you need to use a water or laser level. This must be done when installing each board to avoid distortions.
The slats are attached to the corners located at a distance of 0.5 meters from each other and secured with nails or self-tapping screws. If the siding will have several levels, then you must first make a frame for each level, and then begin installing the siding.
After the frame has been installed around the perimeter of the roof, paneling can be done.
Siding installation
When using vinyl siding, you need to cut the panel 0.5 centimeters smaller, since the material expands when heated. You can cut the panel to the required length using metal scissors, a hacksaw or a grinder.
The panels are fastened with nails or self-tapping screws. Special holes are provided for them. Hammering nails or screws directly into the siding is prohibited, as this can damage it. The nail or self-tapping screw must be located clearly in the middle of the hole. The head of the fastening tool should not be pressed tightly against the surface of the panel or be recessed into it. It is best to make a gap of 0.1 centimeter so that when the panel expands, it does not deform or crack.
In order to provide ventilation, it is best to use perforated panels. If you use regular panels, you can drill holes in them at equal distances from each other.
At the corners of the roof, when joining panels, a special metallic profile for siding.
Using vinyl siding for roof eaves is very practical. It is easy to install and has a low cost, so its use is very popular.
Sheathing the gables - the final stage exterior finishing Houses. By this time, the master should no longer have any questions about working with the main finishing material: siding. Vinyl and metal installations have a lot in common. But still, working with each of them has its own nuances.
There are also some peculiarities in the cladding of the pediment, that part of the house that is located between the roof slopes. It (the pediment) can be either small in height or be a component of a full second floor. The latter also applies to buildings with a residential attic. Provence style houses look most comfortable. Therefore, most homeowners choose this method of exterior decoration of their home.
Key Features architectural style“Provence” – light colors, simplicity and clarity of lines, friendly family atmosphere. To decorate such a house, they choose materials that are affordable in price and of impeccable quality. Siding fully meets these criteria. It is durable and has all the necessary characteristics to ensure proper protection of the building walls.
For finishing in Provence style, the most good choice There will be vinyl siding. Unlike metal, it is able to bring the coziness, simplicity and discreetness necessary for this design direction to the appearance of the building. At the same time, a house covered with vinyl siding looks modern and well-maintained.
The upper part of the building, the pediment, is visible from afar. It is she who creates the first impression of the house and its owners. Therefore, this stage of finishing work must be performed as carefully as possible, guided by detailed step by step instructions based on the experience and recommendations of specialists.
Materials required for gable siding
An important point in finishing works any type - choice of basic material and components. There is one immutable rule, the implementation of which eliminates many troubles during installation. It says: all finishing elements must be purchased from one manufacturer.
Vinyl siding "Alta-Profile"
In this case, the buyer receives several advantages:
- all parts will be adjusted to the millimeter;
- it becomes possible to choose the most suitable color scheme;
- if there is a shortage of material, it can be purchased without fear of significant differences in color shades.
There is one more important point to be aware of when choosing a material. The facing structure must include exactly those elements recommended by the manufacturer. Replacing with equivalent parts, but of a different type, will certainly introduce dissonance into the appearance of the building and increase the labor intensity and complexity of installation.
Thus, it is not recommended to combine vinyl and metal siding or additional elements of these materials in gable cladding. The point is not only in the appearance that does not comply with the rules of aesthetics, but also in the different coefficient of thermal expansion of these products. A finish that combines metal and vinyl will not be durable. There is a high risk of cracks in vinyl siding, who will change his geometric shape under the influence of expansion and contraction of metal parts.
Additional elements for gable cladding
The use of correctly selected components during installation will allow you to obtain a high-quality cladding structure that is not afraid of strong winds, frosts, or high humidity. To cover the gable with siding, you will need to buy several types of additional elements. Products intended for finishing window openings, are needed if there are windows on the pediment.
| product name | Purpose and features |
|---|---|
| Installed first, it is a long narrow sheet to which the lower edge of the first panel is attached. |
| Drains water from the base of the building. |
| A detail that allows you to close the joints between horizontally laid siding panels and soffits provides an aesthetically pleasing appearance to the joints. |
| Designed for finishing window openings whose width is less than 14 cm. It has a rather complex profile, including elements of a slope and a casing. |
| Designed for finishing window and door openings with a slope width of more than 14 cm. |
| Installed along the perimeter of window and door openings, any vertical and horizontal cuts, connections along the inclined line of the wall and roof, for filing and fastening soffits. |
| It is used for covering window openings located on the same plane as the walls of the building. |
| Designed to cover and hold the ends of siding panels on the internal and external corners of the house. When covering gables, they are used if the area to be finished has a complex topography: protrusions and niches relative to the plane of the walls. |
| It is an element with which the installation of the facing structure is completed. Installed above the last, top panel of the trim. When finishing the pediment, it is necessary if the roof slope has a complex shape, including horizontal sections. |
| These thin strips are necessary for joining different finishing elements together and masking gaps. |
| Panels designed for lining the inside of the roof overhang. |
| Provides protection for the attic space from wind blowing. |
When selecting a set of additional elements necessary for cladding a pediment, a novice craftsman will certainly encounter one feature: a variety of names. This can cause confusion and misunderstandings. It's actually simple. Manufacturers, wanting to distinguish their products from the general mass of similar products, give them their own name.
For example, the starting bar is also called the “starting bar.” J-Trim - “J-shaped profile” or “J-profile”. The finishing strip is a “fitting profile”. The same features are present in the names of other additional elements.
In order to correctly navigate this diversity, you must first of all pay attention to the profile of the product. For elements of the same purpose it is always the same, with the exception of small nuances introduced by the manufacturer to emphasize the features of its products.
This point is extremely important to take into account. Purchase of components different brands will inevitably cause a lot of problems during installation, regardless of the complexity of the topography of the pediments and the presence or absence of window openings.
Correct calculation of the amount of materials for covering the gable with siding
When determining the amount of siding to cover the walls of a house, it is enough to perform two types of measurements: find the total length and height of all walls. Then the area of the building is calculated and the result is divided by the area of one unit of finishing material. In this way, an indicator of the required number of panels is obtained.
In the case of gables, everything is much more complicated, since these building elements can have a complex architectural form. But in most cases there are two types:
- have the shape of a regular triangle;
- have a trapezoidal shape.
Regardless of the type of structure, before starting measurements and calculations, you need to find out what the area of one siding panel is. To do this, its length is multiplied by its width.
Calculation example.
On average, vinyl siding panels have a length of 3.05 m and a width of 24 cm. From different manufacturers you can find slats with a width of 17.9 cm, 20.5 cm, 23.2 cm, 25.6 cm. Arm yourself with a calculator and multiply by 3 .05 m x 0.24 m. We get 0.732 m2. This is the area of one siding panel.
Next you need to perform a series of measurements. To do this you will need a tape measure, paper and a pencil. It is most convenient to take measurements using modern laser tape measures. These instruments are also called "laser rangefinders". The principle of working with them is simple: you need to install a tape measure at the starting point of measurement and direct the beam to the point the distance to which you want to measure. Good feedback about inexpensive but high-quality devices LEICA Disto D2 and Mettro CONDTROL 60.
Determining the number of siding panels for triangular gables
- Measure the base (lower horizontal line) of the triangular pediment. They get an “A” rating.
- Measure the height: project the vertex of the triangle onto the base and measure the distance between these two points. They get a “B” score.
- Find the area of the pediment using the following formula: ½ A x B.
- Divide the area of the gable by the area of one siding panel. A number is obtained indicating the number of panels required for cladding. All calculations are performed in m2.
Calculation example.
The base of the pediment is 3.45 m. Height is 3.8 m. The area of one panel is 0.732 m2.
- We calculate the area of the triangular pediment: ½ x 3.45 m x 3.8 m = 6.55 m2.
- We calculate required amount panels: 6.55 m2: 0.732 m2 = 8.948. We round, we get 89.5. This is the number of siding panels required to cover a gable that is 3.45 m long and 3.8 m high.
Determining the number of siding panels for trapezoidal gables
- Measure the length of the gable base (b).
- Measure the length of the upper horizontal line of the roof (a).
- Measure the height of the pediment: project the breaking point of the roof onto the base and calculate the distance between these two points (h).
- Calculate the area of the trapezoid using the formula: ½ x (a+b) x h.
- Divide the resulting figure by the area of one panel.
Calculation example:
- b = 6 m;
- a = 3 m;
- h = 1.8 m.
½ x (6+3) x 1.8 = 8.1 m2
8.1 m2: 0.732 m2 = 11.06
We find out that 110.6 siding panels are needed to cover a trapezoidal pediment of these sizes.
Determining the number of siding panels for gables with complex architectural shapes
In order to find out the material consumption for finishing complex gables with windows, protrusions and height differences, it is necessary to perform a series of measurements for each structural element.
- First of all, find out the area of the window openings. To do this, measure their length and height.
- After which these indicators are multiplied.
- Record the resulting value.
- Do the same with all the windows on the pediment.
- The final stage is the summation of the obtained indicators. This will be the total area of all windows.
To perform the next stage of calculations, you will need to draw an impromptu drawing of the pediment on a piece of paper. Next, you need to break its complex shape into several simple ones: triangles and rectangles. After which they begin to take measurements of each individual figure. All obtained indicators are recorded in the drawing.
The next stage is calculating the area of the pediment. Since it consists of several simple shapes, the first step is to determine the area of each of them. After this, the obtained values are summed up. Get the required indicator: pediment area complex shape.
Next, you need to subtract from this figure the total area of window openings obtained at the first stage of work. As a result, the area to be covered with siding will be found. After which it will be easy to calculate the number of panels required to complete this task. The process is similar to that described in the sections on triangular and trapezoidal gables.
Determining the amount of materials for covering eaves and gable overhangs
An overhang is a part of the roof that protrudes beyond the plane of the walls of the house. The horizontal part of these projections is called the “eave overhang.” Vertical – “pedimental”. Both of them are covered with soffits. The ends are covered with J-straps and/or drip edges. To determine the required amount of materials, you need to perform several tasks sequentially:
- measure the length of the eaves overhangs;
- measure the width of the eaves overhangs (the part that protrudes beyond the pediment);
- all indicators obtained as a result of measurements must be converted into linear meters;
- Next, you need to find the total area of the eaves overhangs, alternately calculating the area of each protrusion;
- A similar procedure is performed for gable overhangs.
As a result, the total area of the roof overhangs to be covered with soffits will be found. Next, find out the area of one soffit panel and the length of the J-profile in the set of components of the selected brand of finishing material. By analogy with previous calculations, the required amount of material for finishing work is found.
Rules and features of connections of additional elements for gable cladding
The components are necessary to ensure ease of installation of siding panels and to give the home a finished look. If the pediment has a complex architectural form, for the cladding of which the standard range of additional elements is not enough, the missing parts can be ordered. All manufacturers of these materials offer the service of manufacturing panels and components according to customer sketches and dimensions.
Any of the additional siding elements is equipped with a perforated strip located on one side of the product. Otherwise, this element is called a “nail strip”. It is intended for fixing fittings to the load-bearing surface.
To connect finishing elements to each other, so-called “locks” are used: shaped protrusions on the side of the products that is opposite to the perforated strip. The locks of different elements have different shapes. This is necessary in order to ensure the highest quality possible connection of the finishing panels.
So, when installing siding, they achieve a characteristic click, signaling that the two parts have been correctly connected. When facing window and door openings, another method of joining components is used: the protrusions of one are inserted into the corresponding recesses of the other. When performing these works there is no need for the most tight joining.
Proper installation of siding requires the implementation of several simple but mandatory rules.
- When attaching panels and components to the load-bearing surface, you should try to screw the screws into the middle of the holes in the nail strip.
- You cannot tighten the panels with self-tapping screws so that they are in maximum contact with the edge of the sheathing. According to the installation rules, there should be a small gap of at least 1 mm wide, but not more than 1.5 mm, between the screw head and the nail strip. This requirement is related to the need to ensure the material “free movement” under the influence of expansion and compression forces.
- All products are attached to the walls only through holes in the nail strip.
- When installing adjacent elements, it is necessary to trim the nail strip of one of them so that a gap of at least 5 mm wide is formed.
- For installation of vinyl and metal siding use galvanized fasteners.
Tools needed for gable siding
Since the pediment is the upper part of the building, the work will have to be done at height. Therefore, first of all, you need to take care of the availability of durable stairs. At a minimum, two are needed, as this will eliminate the constant movement of one staircase from one corner of the house to another. The best option is to install walkways along which you can move when performing work.
It is important to choose the most convenient tool for cutting siding. There are three options for completing this task:
Prices for popular models of jigsaws
Jigsaw
All these tools allow you to get an even cut without nicks. Each master chooses for himself the method of working with the material that is most convenient and accessible for him.
To mark the panels and components you will need a simple pencil and a metal square. A tape measure is required to take measurements. One of the most the right tools– construction bubble level. Experts recommend choosing a professional model, since with its help you can most accurately determine the horizontal and vertical.
From auxiliary tools you can prepare the following:
- plumb line;
- pliers;
- hammer;
- rubber or wooden mallet;
- marker.
For screwing in galvanized self-tapping screws, a screwdriver is most convenient. batteries. It is not “tied” to the electrical network, so there is no need for various types of carriers and wires. Optimal choice– a screwdriver with two replaceable batteries. Having an additional one will allow you to avoid interruptions in work necessary to recharge a dead battery.
Prices for popular models of screwdrivers
Screwdrivers
How to properly mount a frame under siding
Siding of any brand and of any material (asbestos cement, metal or vinyl) cannot be installed directly on walls. First you need to prepare the frame, which is otherwise called the “sheathing”. This can be done using two types of materials: wooden blocks or metal profiles, which are intended for installing drywall.
This is not to say that one of these materials is better than the other. Both of them are suitable for creating a strong and durable frame. But wood still has one drawback: it requires careful drying. Otherwise, the sheathing will certainly move and deformation of the facing structure is possible. The risk of this problem occurring is especially high when working with flexible vinyl siding.
The cross-section of the wooden blocks should resemble the cross-section of a metal profile. The following sizes are suitable: 30/40 mm, 35/45 mm, 40/40 mm, 45/45 mm, 40/50 mm, 40/60 mm, etc. Most often, metal profile PP 60/27 is chosen for the construction of the frame. It, like wooden blocks, will serve as load-bearing posts.
In addition to the main elements of this design, you will need additional ones: suspensions. These are special thin plates with perforations that are used to align the frame posts in one plane. This way you get perfectly smooth vertical walls.
The hangers are attached to the load-bearing surface through a hole located in the middle of the plate. Then the perforated strips are folded back and the frame post is inserted between them. Fastening is carried out using small self-tapping screws SMM 3.5/51. Other fasteners suitable for this purpose may be used. To construct a frame made of wooden blocks, you need wood screws 1.5-2.5 cm long.
Rules for installing a frame under siding
- The hangers are installed so that the step between them does not exceed 60 cm.
- The upper and lower hangers should be no further than 15 cm from the edge of the wall and no closer than 5 cm.
- If wooden blocks are used, their preparation is necessary: high-quality drying and coating with an ogebioprotective solution.
- The pitch between the supporting frame posts must correspond to the width of the insulation being laid. Optimal – 50-60 cm.
- For brick surfaces, you will need to pre-drill holes for hangers. First, they put the appropriate marks on the wall, after which they complete the task using a drill and a drill bit with pobedite.
Preparatory work
Beginning of work on the installation of the sheathing - preparation of the gable and roof overhangs.
Step 1. First of all, remove the old one finishing material: wind boards, flashings, cladding. To perform this task use any convenient tools: pry bar, hammer, pliers.
Step 2. The roofing material is trimmed flush with the gable overhangs. Select tools that match the roofing material. If it is a metal tile, use a grinder with a metal circle. If it is slate, you will need a hammer, a grinder with a stone disc, and wire cutters. If uneven protrusions or chips remain after trimming, do not worry: they will subsequently be covered with finishing elements: drip edges.
Step 3. They do everything necessary to level the walls and overhangs: they remove or cut down all those protruding parts that can be removed without catastrophic consequences for the building.
Pediment before finishing - photo
Pediment plane beating
Step 1: Install the Bottom Rail
The most convenient way to determine the plane of the skin is laser level. This device is installed at the lowest point of one of the corners of the pediment and directs the beam to the opposite side. It is important to install the device so that the new plane is at least 4 cm away from the load-bearing wall. When turning on the device, make marks at the points pointed at by the laser.
In order to build a new plane using bars and available tools, proceed as follows:
Step 2: Locate the Top Rail
Regardless of whether the pediment is triangular or trapezoidal, installation of the top rail begins by trimming its ends at an angle of 45°. To do this, use a miter saw, jigsaw or hacksaw.
Next, you need to find the exact location to install the upper guide. To perform this task, you will need a plumb line on a thread of such length that it is sufficient to contact the load with the lower guide. If the height of the pediment is significant, you need to find an assistant. This person will be at the bottom guide and determine if the plumb line has made contact with it.
Sequencing:
- from the point of intersection of the ridge beam with the pediment wall, measure a distance equal to the width of the indentation from the wall of the lower guide (from the wall to the outer plane of the bars);
- put a mark with a marker;
- apply a thread to this point, on which a plumb line is attached;
- ask the assistant whether the load has come into contact with the outer plane of the lower guide;
- gradually moving the thread, find the point at which the plumb line will show that the vertical has been found;
- make the appropriate marks with a marker.
If the pediment has a trapezoidal shape, this work is performed twice, at each intersection of the roof beams with the wall.
Step 3: Installing the Top Rail
Self-tapping screws are screwed into bars with ends cut at an angle of 45° so that their tips protrude from reverse side bar by 5-7 mm. At the points found using a plumb line, holes are drilled and plastic dowels are installed in them. After which the upper guide is fixed. If necessary, the ridge beam is hemmed with a wooden block.
Step 4. Installing the side rails
Along the lines of the roof slope, it is necessary to install side guides made of the same material as those already fixed. To do this, you will need to file or trim the ends of the bars. Since the angle of the roof slope can be any, it is impossible to give recommendations regarding the cutting angle of the bars. This parameter is determined experimentally by applying wooden dies to the upper and lower guides.
Next, perform the same actions as in the previous stages: drill holes in the bars and screw self-tapping screws into them. Then the side guides are attached to the roof overhangs and to the upper and lower guides. The finished outline of the sheathing must be in the same vertical plane.
Installation of frame under siding
Step 1. Marking for hangers
Based on the above rules for installing sheathing, mark the pediment for the installation of hangers. To complete this work you will need a plumb line, tape measure and marker.
- From the corner point at which the lower guide and the roof overhang intersect, a distance selected depending on the width of the insulation is retreated. If you do not plan to insulate the pediment, then the optimal step is 40-60 cm.
- Place a mark on the bottom guide with a marker.
- A thread with a plumb line is applied to the side guide located nearby and the point of contact of the load with the mark on the bottom guide is found.
- Project the line of the thread onto the wall and mark along it with a marker, taking into account that the top and bottom are no closer than 5 cm to the wooden (metal) contour of the sheathing. The step between intermediate points is 50-60 cm.
- From the mark on the bottom guide, measure 40-60 cm towards the opposite corner of the house and perform a similar sequence of work: using a plumb line, find the vertical and mark it with a marker along this line.
- In this way, the entire area of the pediment is marked.
If there are window or door openings, the markings are carried out taking into account that the hangers should be located along the perimeter of these pediment elements, but taking into account the desired slope angle. This will allow you to make high-quality lining of the openings.
Step 2. Preparing holes for mounting hangers
Prices for popular hammer drill models
Hammers
At this stage of constructing the frame for the siding, it is necessary to drill holes with which the hangers will be attached to the pediment. The choice of materials and tools depends on what the pediment is built from. If it is a brick, you will need a drill (optimally with a hammer drill mode), a drill bit with pobedit, a dowel and nails. If it is wood, foam block or gas block, a screwdriver and self-tapping screws are enough.
Step 3. Installation of hangers
The hangers are fastened using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws 3.5-4.5 cm long with a flat, wide head. Each metal strip is applied to the wall so that it (the strip) is horizontal. There is an oblong hole in the central part of the suspension. Its middle is aligned with the mark on the pediment. Screw in the self-tapping screw and attach the metal strip to the wall.
Step 4. Installation of supporting frame posts
Step 5. Installation of roof overhang sheathing
In order to line the inner plane of the roof overhangs, they must be hemmed along the lines of the slopes with bars 3-4 cm thick. Wood slats attached to inner corner, formed by the adjoining of the overhang to the pediment, and along the outer, opposite corner, line of the overhangs.
Since the soffits are bending-resistant and light in weight, a distance of up to 80 cm between the bars is permissible. But overhangs of this width are quite rare. At this stage of work, it is necessary to ensure that the outer ends of the sheathing form an even line that follows the cut of the roof slope.
Prices for different types of bars
Covering window and door openings
There are several options for finishing window and door openings. Choice the best way depends on whether installation of ebb and flow is required, and on the features of the components of a particular manufacturer. But the basic principles for installing finishing elements are the same for all types of siding.
Windows on gables are most often located in the same plane as the wall. Therefore, installation of ebbs and slopes is not required. The width of the side panel of the window strip is quite enough for covering shallow openings. To cover them, you need to perform several stages of work sequentially.
Step 1. Taking measurements
A tape measure is used to take measurements. The obtained indicators are recorded on a piece of paper. You need to know the following parameters:
- the height of the inner line of the opening;
- the height of the external line of the opening;
- depth of the opening (width of the slope);
- opening bevel angle.
Step 2. Preparation of finishing elements
In accordance with the obtained dimensions, the window strip and J-profile are cut. The most difficult task is to correctly cut out all the protrusions that, when joining two near-window strips, form the internal and external corners of the slopes.
The profile of these additional elements (near-window strips) is quite complex, so you will have to repeatedly trim one or another part of the ends after fitting. It is recommended to saw off the near-window strip a little from the whole canvas bigger size than the height of the opening. After obtaining a high-quality cut of the end, the panel can be shortened.
Step 3. Installation of the J-profile
The J-profile is attached around the perimeter of the window so that the nail strips are on the plane of the slopes. For fixation, self-tapping screws are used, which are screwed into the bars (metal profiles) of the sheathing.
Step 4. Installation of the window strip
The near-window strip is installed so that its figured protrusion covers external corner slope The flat part of the panel is inserted into the J-profile. The nail strips of the window profile are attached to the sheathing. The ends of the siding panels will be inserted into the recesses of these additional elements, which will cover all the fastening points.
Framing arched and round windows
Covering the gable with siding
The sequence of actions for installing siding depends on several factors. Firstly, you need to consider whether the complex of work will be carried out independently or with the assistance of assistants. Secondly, such a point as the presence of a lower slope (low tide) at the pediment is important. If it is not there, cladding work on the pediment is a continuation of finishing the wall of the house with siding. In this case, installation of the starting bar is not necessary.
If the pediment has a lower slope and the work is carried out alone, it is recommended to do a little preparation before starting the installation of the facing structure. This will reduce the labor intensity of fastening long and flexible panels of the starting bar, since there will be no one to hold its second end.
If the situation is this, self-tapping screws are screwed halfway into the lower outer end of the lower frame guide so that they are at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. You will need to lay a starting bar on them. After this it will be possible without special labor secure.
Siding prices
Sequence of siding installation work
Step 1. Installation of the finishing strip
Along the line of the roof slope, a finishing strip is attached to the side rails. Both lines of these profiles will intersect at the top corner point of the triangular pediment. Therefore, the ends of each plank must be cut at an angle so that a beautiful, even joint is obtained.
If the pediment has a trapezoidal shape, the finishing strips are installed only along the side rails, leaving the top free.
Step 2. Preparing to fix the starting bar
If the bottom guide of the frame is not perfectly level, tighten the thread before installing the starting profile. It will serve as a guide for setting the starting bar. The thread must be stretched strictly horizontally. This is achieved using a building level.
Step 3. Attaching the starting bar
The initial strip is laid on a thread and one end of this additional element is inserted into the adjacent finishing strip. There should be a distance of 2-3 mm between these finishing details. This will provide the damping gap necessary to compensate for the “movement” of the slats when they are heated or cooled.
Next, they begin to attach the starting profile through the holes in its nail strip. Self-tapping screws are used, which are screwed in so that the strip moves freely horizontally within the perforation hole. But it was firmly attached.
The next starting profile is installed at a distance of 5-6 mm from the first. In this way they move along the pediment line. The last strip is cut using metal scissors, slightly bent towards you and the end is inserted into the finishing strip.
Step 2. Installation of the first siding panel
At the bottom of each siding panel there is a U-shaped bend, which is used to connect the two slats. There is a recess on the starting strip into which you need to insert the siding panel. After which it is slightly pulled up and secured through the holes in the nail strip with self-tapping screws to the frame posts.
In this work, it is important to follow one rule: never pull up the siding so that it is in maximum contact with the underlying panel. It is necessary to leave a gap of 2-3 mm wide between them.
The ends of the siding panels must be inserted into the side finishing strips. The panels are connected horizontally either overlapping or using an H-shaped profile.
Step 3. Further installation of siding
Since for each line of panels you will have to make two cuts at the ends at a certain angle, it is recommended to make templates for each roof slope. They (templates) can be made from sections of panels, one edge of which must be cut at an angle so that it corresponds to the slope line of one of the roof slopes.
Under the window everything is about the same - the most top bar Cut to size and simply snap onto bottom siding lock
Subsequently, the templates are laid on the panels, a line is drawn along them, and the unnecessary part of the siding end is sawed off along it. Having reached the top point of the triangular-shaped gable, it is permissible to fasten the top panel through the siding, and not through the perforations.
The only time you can attach a siding panel directly through the vinyl is the last panel
If the pediment is trapezoidal, a finishing strip is attached to the top guide of the frame. After which installation is carried out last panel siding. It may need pruning.
Installation of spotlights
Modern soffit systems consist of 4 elements:
- soffit panel with perforation;
- soffit panel without perforation;
- J-profile (some manufacturers call this product a “finish strip”);
- connecting strip.
Step 1. Installation of the J-profile
The J-profile is necessary for closing the ends and holding the soffits. This additional element is attached in the same way as siding panels: through perforations. J-straps must be located on both sides of the soffits, so they are attached to both the inner corner formed by the roof overhang and the gable wall, and to the outer edge of the roof.
Two J-profiles are connected to each other by cutting off 2-2.5 cm of the mounting (perforated) part of one of the planks. After which the planks are brought into each other. At the corner points of the overhangs, the J-profile is connected end-to-end.
Step 2. Installation of spotlights
Prices for different types of spotlights
Roof soffits
Soffits are quite flexible and lightweight, so their installation is simple. The panel is slightly bent downward and both ends are inserted into the recesses in the J-planks. Further actions depend on the configuration of the roof overhangs and the topography of the pediment.
If it is triangular in shape, install the soffits and fasten them in the same way as was used when installing the siding panels. When the two spotlights are connected correctly, a characteristic click should be heard. Thanks to the locks, the panels are firmly connected to each other. But here, too, you need to follow the same rule as when installing siding: leave a gap of 2-3 mm wide between the finishing elements.
If the pediment is trapezoidal or more complex in shape, connecting strips are attached at the points of kinks and turns. With their help, soffit lines are joined together. The final stage of work is the installation of drip pipes. They are attached to the outer edge of the roof slopes.
Video - How to cover a gable with siding part 1. Secrets of siding installation
Video - How to cover a gable with siding, part 2. Secrets of siding installation
Video - Pediment cladding
The final part of the cladding of the facade of the house is lining the roof with siding. This process allows you to give the building a finished look from the outside. The work involves several technological solutions, each of which can be completed independently without the involvement of specialists. But you need to take into account certain nuances and recommendations.
Can be used for cladding standard types siding:
These options are used most often for reasons of economy; leftovers from façade finishing or unspent stock are used for filing. But all varieties have one significant drawback - the lack of ventilation holes. Although punching can be done by yourself, the results will not always be attractive.
That's why the best solution is the use of soffit for siding. This material belongs to the additional elements of façade finishing. It is a panel made of vinyl or metal about 30 cm wide and 305 cm long. The following options are available:
- fully perforated;
- without ventilation holes (smooth);
- with partial perforation in the center.
Choice suitable solution depends entirely on the specific situation.
Soffit models are selected depending on the type of roof Do-it-yourself home cornice finishing
You can hem the roof overhang in several ways; various additional elements will be needed for the job.
Installation of siding along the rafter line
This method differs from others in that it allows you to create a plane located at an angle of inclination of the rafters. The difficulty of this technology lies in the construction of the frame, so this finishing of the roof eaves with siding is carried out according to the following scheme:
The inclined overhang cladding looks original - The level of the rafters is assessed. To do this, a cord is pulled between the first and last beams and aligned to the desired plane. Due to the fact that the main elements of the sheathing must be installed along the outer and inner edges of the overhang, it is recommended to pull different cords in both areas, aligned with each other using a level.
- Frame parts are displayed one by one. If a wooden beam is used (which is more preferable), then it is pre-treated with antiseptic agents and fire retardants. Nails or screws are used for fixation. The slats are leveled using a level and substrates. The result should be a single plane.
- Difficulties may arise when working with a roof that has several interconnected slopes. When filing them, timber must be added on both sides of the joint and in the center. If the roof overhang is very large, then a beam is installed in the middle for rigidity.
General scheme arrangement of an inclined overhang along the rafters On a note! An alternative solution may be the option of facing the cornice along the bars laid on the rafters. They are attached to the side, leveled, after which all sections are connected by horizontal slats.
Installation of panels can occur in several ways. Their difference is whether the created section will continue the gable overhang or will be an independent element. In such cases, the panels are located in different directions. The most popular siding finish under the roof is the following option:
- A J-profile is mounted along the installed horizontal frame elements opposite each other.
- The starting strip is laid at the initial section, and the finishing profile at the final section.
- The first panel is measured, cut to size, inserted behind the J-profiles, fixed to the starting strip through the mounting holes and screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.
- After installing all the fragments, the outer areas are covered with a decorative corner.
Slant and horizontal arrangement overhang in comparison When the panels of the roof overhang and gable are positioned in different directions, a noticeable joint is formed, which is best hidden with a plank.
Horizontal installation
Horizontal cladding of the eaves with siding is simpler, but combines two methods of creating a frame:
- The most common method of constructing sheathing is when the main elements are placed along the facade and along the edge of the overhang in a single plane.
- A more labor-intensive option is to hem the timber from the rafters: one end of the board is fixed at the end of the roof overhang, and the other is adjacent to the wall. The difficulty lies in aligning all the parts with each other.
In both situations, it is necessary to provide a projection at the junction of the roof overhang and the gable. At this point, the eaves area will have a noticeable box located on both sides of the gable roof.
Arrangement of a horizontal overhang in combination with a wind board Correct installation of siding can be done in several ways:
- The simplest method is used when there is no large gap between the roof and the sheathing beams (the edge of the rafters). In such a situation, everything depends on the location of the panels: if parallel, the starting and finishing profiles are laid along the wall and overhang, and if perpendicular, J-profiles are laid. The corners are sheathed with a simple corner.
- A more complex method involves additional installation J-chamfer (wind board). In this case, the arrangement of additional elements is as follows: a J-profile is placed along the wall, a J-chamfer is placed along the edge, a finishing strip is fixed under the roofing material, into which the edge of the wind strip is inserted.
- If all areas are to be covered with siding, then the J-chamfer and finishing profile can be replaced with a J-profile. The knot formed at the junction of the vertical and horizontal sections is framed by an overhead corner.
The three most common schemes for arranging a horizontal overhang On a note! Finish the cornice horizontally it is possible even in the case of complex roof geometry and the connection of several slopes. In such a situation, corner joining is performed at a right angle or with trimming.
Soffit lining
Perforated siding - soffit - is becoming increasingly popular when working with roof overhangs and gables. It is suitable not only for this: it can also be used to cover the ceiling of a gazebo or porch, and products with ventilation holes used in humid climates when condensate removal is required.
Fittings for finishing soffits and siding are often similar
Installation of such panels is carried out using the same methods as for horizontal installation, but there is another way:
Difficult corners are dealt with, as in the previous case, perpendicularly or by trimming.
Although lining a roof is not the most difficult procedure, failure to comply with rules and recommendations, as well as violation of technology, will lead to unpleasant consequences.
When the walls and roof with roof covering are ready, you need to think about finishing the overhangs of the roof frame. Some owners leave it without additional filing, but uncovered areas not only spoil the appearance of the building, but are also susceptible to the destructive influence of factors environment. Lining the roof with siding is one of the inexpensive and beautiful coating, which is used for buildings made of various materials.
Material selection
Before you buy roof siding in a hardware store or arrange delivery from online resources, you need to understand what materials it is made from and which one is better to choose:
Walls and roofs are covered with metal. In stores you can find galvanized siding, which looks like a rounded beam in shape and has a wooden texture on the surface. Metal is not afraid of mechanical influences and direct sun rays. An additional coating protects it from the damaging effects of moisture. However, at joints, scratches and chips, the metal can quickly rust and ruin the appearance of the skin.
Roof siding is a solid sheet of aluminum covered with a decorative layer. Thanks to the additional surface coating, aluminum is more resistant to environmental factors.
Made from PVC. This material is lightweight and is not afraid of prolonged exposure to moisture and sunlight. In addition to this, PVC is inexpensive and has a high durability.
It is considered the best material for lining roof frame overhangs. This is due to high levels of resistance to environmental factors, ease of installation, and low price. Perforated parts allow air to pass under the material and prevent mold from forming on the material. wooden frame roofs.
On our website you can get acquainted with the most . In the filters you can set the desired direction, the presence of gas, water, electricity and other communications.
Previously, the most popular material for filing overhangs was considered wooden lining. However, the beautiful appearance could not overshadow the disadvantage associated with moisture. With prolonged exposure, it quickly destroyed the wood and rendered the filing unusable.
On a note! In addition to siding, you must purchase fasteners. Self-tapping screws should be smaller in width than the holes located at the junctions of the decorative coating sheets.
Creating a wireframe
The amount of material will depend on what type of frame the home owner has chosen. There are two options for constructing the frame. It is necessary to make a choice before covering the roof overhangs with siding:
Horizontal box(perpendicular to tangent rafter system). The most popular option for filing overhangs. Suitable for multi-pitched roofs. To make it you need two boards and two bars. The boards must be secured at the end of the rafters and on the wall. The bars are placed between the boards so that siding panels can be secured to them using self-tapping screws.
Box in the direction of the rafters. This option applies to pitched roofs, with a slight slope of the slope. By internal parties rafters are filled with bars at the same level. Siding panels are fixed on top of them.
Before starting further work, you need to check the frame using a building level. The difference between the location of parallel bars and boards will spoil the appearance of the hemmed areas.
Rules for working with siding
There are a number of rules that must be followed in order not to encounter problems during installation and further operation of overhang coverings:
Before attaching the gardening panels, there must be profiles installed around the entire perimeter.
When using plastic siding, the panels are cut 5 mm less required size. This creates free space in case the material expands when heated.
Mandatory maintain air exchange. To do this, you can alternate regular panels with perforated ones. The optimal interval is 1 m.
Self-tapping screws can't be screwed all the way. It is required to leave 1 mm of free space for the movement of material during expansion.
Before finishing begins, the rafter legs must be cut down one level. To check whether the cuts were made smoothly, you need to stretch the thread between the first and last legs of the rafters.
From the end side of the roof, rafters closed with wind bars. They prevent moisture from entering the space between the siding attached to the gable overhangs and the roof.
Wind bars Source montazh-saidinga.ru
By following these rules, you can avoid most problems in the future.
Carrying out basic work
The process of finishing the roof eaves with siding will depend on the chosen frame and the direction of arrangement of the decorative coating panels.
Location of siding under the roof (along the rafter line):
The first step after making the frame should be installation J-profiles. They are fixed on parallel frame elements (opposite each other).
Second phase - location of start and finish bars. They need to be leveled. The integrity of the coating and appearance will depend on this.
After installing the guides, it goes siding panel installation stage. Initially, they are measured in size and cut using a grinder or special scissors. The first sheet is inserted behind the J-profile. Next, it is fixed to the starting bar using self-tapping screws. They must be screwed into the mounting holes.
When all panels are installed and securely screwed to the frame, it is required close external areas using decorative corners.
Multidirectional joints between panels are covered with decorative strips.
Horizontal location of eaves siding:
Selected material measured and cut by size.
Initially required secure the first plank profile level at the bottom or top of the overhang. All other panels begin to be fixed from the installed profile.
According to this system, the siding is fixed to the gable overhangs.
We also need to talk separately about how to properly install siding on a horizontal ledge on gable roofs:
Initially there should be finishing strip installed. It is shown in the figure as number 1.
To carry out any work on covering overhangs with siding, you will need three types of profiles - J-profile, starting and finishing strips.
It is advisable for the home owner to take into account the advice and recommendations of people who have already done the lining of overhangs with siding. These recommendations will answer many controversial questions and help in the work process:
Distance between fastening elements (screws, nails) along the length of the profile should not exceed 35 cm. Large quantity fastenings will lead to unnecessary costs, and due to less, sagging may occur.
From the moment of purchase to the start installation work siding needed store under lightproof plastic film on the street. Under bottom sheets bars or boards are placed so that the material does not come into contact with the ground.
Important work carefully with locks located on profiles and panels. If too much pressure is applied, they may break.
To cut profiles and plates evenly grinder is used. Simple trimmings are made using metal scissors.
To create good ventilation, special ventilation grates. They will ensure air circulation between the siding, insulation (if any) and the roofing.
Before installing siding, the roof needs to be insulated.
Many builders miss the mark panel joints using sealant. There is no need to do this.
If the panels become dirty with dust or dirt, they can be tidied up using damp cloth with the addition of a singing solution. Do not clean panel joints with metal brushes or strong chemicals.
Video description
In the video you can see the roof siding:
Conclusion
Lining the roof with siding is a way to protect the rafters and frame from environmental factors, as well as improve the appearance. It is important to choose the right material and carry out installation according to all requirements.
