Installation of plastic windows in an adobe or adobe house. Do-it-yourself slopes - made from plasterboard, putty, wood and plastic (100 photo ideas) How to install plastic windows in an adobe house

If the house is very old, then its walls can only be made of adobe and, as a rule, when replacing window blocks there is significant damage. This is due to the fact that adobe bricks can begin to deform over time and voids form in them. They will have to be eliminated.

Plaster or plastic? We can immediately say that these two materials are for finishing works differ in their structure and properties.

Plaster:

The material has been used for such work for a long time. It has excellent characteristics.

Advice. Since the house is made of adobe and the walls of such a structure breathe, it is best to use plaster, which has similar properties.

Initially, the first layer of plaster mixture (starting), which has large grains, is applied to the surface of the slope. With its help the surface is leveled. It is also worth using special metal corners for even slope angles.
After the starting one, the finishing one is applied, which has a finely carved structure, each layer is processed with sandpaper.

Advice. Number of starting layers and finishing layers depends on surface defects. Just remember that each of them should not be too thick. Otherwise, the entire finish may come away from the surface over time.

Then the plaster can be painted in the desired shade or a layer of decorative plaster can be applied on top of it. There is plaster interspersed with threads or other elements.

Plastic

When choosing such a material, it is worth considering that plastic is a fairly airtight material and if an adobe house breathes and is not heated in cold weather, then moisture will collect under the finishing. It will not reach the surface of the plastic, but over time it may begin to destroy the structure of the building material.

About plastic:

Plastic is very practical and can be used in slopes on any surface. It does not absorb moisture and is very easy to clean. About its service life we can say that it ends when the plastic plate is deformed. And so the material can last a very long time.
In my own way appearance has a large assortment, and creating an original design for slopes will not be difficult.

Advice. Plastic can only be mounted on special sheathing and to finish the slopes it is not necessary to make it too high. This can hide the space of the window opening itself.

To prevent moisture from collecting under this type of finish, before installation on a slope it is worth doing preparatory work. They consist of isolation. For this purpose, lightweight materials are used, such as polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam of small thickness. They are cut and inserted into the sheathing.
You can choose plastic whose width will correspond to the width of the slope. Thus, it is possible to save money and time on finishing.

Installation of such material is quite simple. It uses a starter strip that is attached at the bottom and top of the slope and plastic strips or panels are inserted into it. The fastening elements are special locks, which are located at their end.

I decided to install the windows myself (profile 70mm), triple glazing, my house is a private adobe, lined with brick (total thickness 400mm) At what depth should I install the windows from the outside? How to insulate and make slopes inside and outside the window after installation? Thanks in advance.

According to building regulations and rules window unit must be installed at a depth of 1/3 of the thickness load-bearing wall. If your wall thickness is 400 mm, then (400:3)x2= 266 mm. This means that we measure 134 mm from the outside to the installation line of the double-glazed window and the window will stand along this line. But, here a problem arises if the house is lined with brick flooring, and this is 120 mm, and between brickwork and there is an air gap in the wall, it may not be possible to accurately maintain the installation size of 134 mm. Therefore, it would be correct to install the window unit almost flush with adobe wall. All gaps between the window block and the walls of the opening are filled polyurethane foam, and only with foam, not clay. Foam does not destroy the wall material; on the contrary, it fills all the smallest recesses in the walls and reliably connects the window block to the adobe. The only thing that must be done is, before using the foam, moisten with a spray bottle all surfaces of the window opening with which the foam will come into contact.

Gap with outside The windows between the brickwork and the wall can also be foamed, and if its size allows, then thin polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, etc. can be installed in it. Then the surface of the slopes is leveled with plaster, a sickle mesh and finishing plaster are glued onto it. You can also additionally glue a strip of foam plastic, then a serpyanka mesh and then work on it finishing external slope.

For finishing internal slopes you can use plaster or plastic. Plaster is in most cases used to perform such work, as it has excellent characteristics.

Since your house is made of adobe and the walls of such a house breathe very well, it is best to use plaster on the slopes, which has similar properties.

Initially, the first layer of coarse-grained plaster mixture is applied to the surface of the slope, with its help the surface of the slopes is leveled. To obtain an even slope line, special perforated corners are installed.

After the starting putty has completely dried, a fine-grained finishing putty is applied, each layer of which is processed with sandpaper.

Depending on the surface defects of the window opening, there may be several such layers, so it is necessary to apply them in thin layers - both starting layers and finishing layers, otherwise the entire plaster may simply move away from the wall of the house and collapse. After drying, the slopes can be painted in any color.

If you use plastic. When choosing such a material, it is worth considering that plastic is a fairly airtight material and if an adobe house breathes and is not heated in cold weather, then moisture will collect under the finishing. It will not reach the surface of the plastic, but over time it may begin to destroy the structure of the building material.

Plastic is very practical and can be used in slopes on any surface. It does not absorb moisture and is very easy to clean. About its service life we can say that it ends when the plastic plate is deformed. And so the material can last a very long time.

It has a large assortment in appearance, and creating an original design for slopes will not be difficult.

Plastic can be mounted on a slope only on a special sheathing, and to finish the slopes it is not necessary to make it too high. This can hide the space of the window opening itself.

To prevent moisture from collecting under this type of finish, it is worth doing preparatory work before installing it on a slope. They consist of isolation. For this purpose, lightweight materials are used, such as polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam of small thickness. They are cut and inserted into the sheathing.

You can choose plastic whose width will correspond to the width of the slope. Thus, it is possible to save money and time on finishing.

There are plastic sandwiches with insulation (see photo on the right), but this is not suitable for arranging slopes in your home.

How to make slopes on windows? This question worries many who, after replacing window structures, are faced with such a problem. Indeed, serious work remains to be done to make the surfaces reliable and beautiful. It is worth considering that slopes perform not only a decorative, but also a protective function. Therefore, it is necessary to approach this with utmost care. If you make mistakes or do the work poorly, a lot of troubles will arise.

Window slopes- This is an integral part of any room. Some believe that minimal attention can be paid to such a design. But this is a misconception that leads to aesthetic and practical problems. The fact is that internal slopes perform a number of important functions:

Maintain a certain microclimate. Slopes prevent heat from escaping from the room to the outside, as well as preventing cold from penetrating inside. Naturally, protection from moisture, which leads to the formation of condensation, cannot be ruled out.
Extend the service life of all structures. That is why such finishing must be carried out in a short time. Of course, you can still delay installation indoors, but outside, installing the slopes is required within a minimum time.
They create an excellent decorative component. Installing slopes on windows can be considered one of the main components harmonious interior. You can install beautiful metal-plastic frames, but if they are not properly refined, they will lose their sophistication.

Therefore, when performing all the work yourself, you must comply with all technological nuances and rules. Then you can be sure that you will get a reliable and durable coating that will please the eye.

Design Features

The design of slopes has its own characteristics. The fact is that it is necessary to take into account the main nuances that must be done when working with your own hands:

The structure should be finished so that the edge of the frame is covered quite a bit.
It is necessary to take into account the location of hinges and opening doors.
The foam is trimmed flush with the frame. If you delete large quantity substances than required, then a distortion of the structure may occur. Also, any bulging residue will interfere with the finishing process.
Particular attention is paid to the installation seam. The option that will be used for cladding the window slopes depends on its thickness.
The sealing process is very important point. All places must be well coated.

But how to finish the slopes, the location outside the room? The technology is almost entirely consistent with internal work. But the obligatory and most important rule will be to install a low tide.

Finish options

It is customary to distinguish two main cladding options, which differ in the materials used.

Cladding with panel products

This technology assumes that materials will be used that are cut into panels of the required size.

When choosing this method, the following features should be taken into account:

Quality of material. It is necessary to carefully select the products used. The fact is that if you install a low-quality option, then problems will begin to arise during the installation process. For example, cheap plastic is characterized by the fact that it crumbles and cracks when cut, and after installation it does not retain its good appearance for long.
Correct insulation and processing technology. When installing panel products, voids often arise, which can serve as an opportunity for the development of fungus and mold. Such places are a source of cold penetration. Therefore, surfaces require pre-treatment and installation of insulation, the choice of which depends on specific situation.
Careful measurement. Main mistake, which can happen is inaccuracies in measurements. If you do not take into account the location of the parts, wide joints will form that cannot be hidden even with decorative moldings.
Finishing. Installation of slopes from panel products must be combined with the correct selection decorative elements. For subsequent finishing, you can use special profiles and corners, as well as putty external joints. When installing overhead fragments, it is important to make the correct trim so that all joints are equal.

On a note! To produce the most accurate parts for window slopes, two methods are used. The first is simply measuring and transferring data to the material, the second is creating stencils. This method is much more accurate, but requires more time, because it is necessary to perform a stencil at each stage of the work.

Application of the solution

Such work involves applying a certain layer of prepared mortar to the windows yourself, which completely covers the entire surface of the slopes. This option is considered the most traditional. His distinctive feature is cheapness.

Finishing can be carried out according to two main scenarios:

Traditional. The surface is finished with a mixture that is leveled at a certain angle.
With additional insulation. This technology involves the use of foam plastic, which serves as the base. In reality, this option can be fraught with many problems. Incorrect installation insulation is a guarantee that numerous cracks and peelings will appear.

Preparatory activities

Before wondering how to properly make slopes, you should thoroughly prepare the surface. The amount of work depends on the specific situation. There is a general order that must be followed:

Slope manufacturing technology

How to finish the slopes? There are basic materials that are used for such work:

plastic PVC panels for walls;
sandwich panels;
plaster.

Each option is selected based on several reasons:

Distance from wall to window frame. That is, the thickness of the assembly seam.
Width of plots.
Financial expenses.

Considering that the master must perform all the work himself, the option that will be most acceptable is chosen.

PVC panels for walls

PVC panels are the most popular material for finishing window slopes

This material is used most often, especially if needed. There are several reasons for this:

Cheapness. Modern technologies make it possible to produce products that are accessible to everyone.
Practicality. If you choose materials that do not belong to the category of economy, then they are unpretentious in operation and last quite a long time.
Easy to install. The work is completed quickly, without the use of complex tools.

Installation of slopes from plastic panels carried out according to the following instructions:

But the window decoration is not finished yet. A number of finishing manipulations should be performed. They consist in the fact that all joints are well coated with sealant. Decorative corners are installed on the outside. They must be trimmed correctly in order to join at an angle of 90 degrees.

When a dilemma arises about which slopes are better, many proposals and opinions may arise. But it is undeniable that it is better to make slopes from sandwich panels. They combine everything positive traits PVC materials, but have additional advantages:

The products include a reliable layer of protection (one or two), as well as a layer of insulation. This avoids the need to use additional material.
They are resistant to various influences, due to which their service life is practically unlimited.
They have an excellent decorative appearance. Indeed, such panels are superior in appearance to wall products. Besides this material can be made in a fairly wide size, which is ideal for large openings.

Making slopes on windows with your own hands using such products is quite simple. It must be taken into account that this option is excellent in cases where the thickness of the installation seam is minimal. Three-layer material is used for work.

Let's look at how to install slopes from sandwich panels. Everything is done as follows:

Using plaster

Previously, there were no questions about how to make slopes on windows. After all, there was only one option, which was to use plaster. This method quite convenient and practical, but requires skills. This need arises due to the fact that it is necessary to correctly display all the planes and maintain the angle of inclination. Although, if you practice a little and understand how best to apply the mixture, then plastering work will not cause any particular difficulties.

The general technology is as follows:

The result is an excellent coating that is highly reliable. The undoubted advantage of this option is that each section made can be repaired and the decorative layer can be changed.

Conclusion

Summarizing the above, we can conclude that there are various options finishing of window slopes, which depend on the specific situation and financial capabilities. The main thing is to initially carry out all the work efficiently, observing all the nuances.

The turmoil associated with an important change, the purchase of plastic windows, is the choice of profile, design, fittings, but not only. A decision has to be made regarding the slopes. Without the help of specialists, you can make different types of slopes, save some money and buy a more expensive window sill, for example.

The downside is that, most likely, it will not be possible to repair the windows under warranty. On the other hand, they should not break. The guarantee is only insurance.

Often it is necessary to insulate a window opening; the quality of the “original” slopes is not satisfactory. Only by dismantling the old ones and improving them with insulation will the situation be changed.

Mosaics made of glass, mirror splashes, fragments, relief surfaces and other extravagant design options are created separately, mostly by hand. Do-it-yourself photos of slopes made from different materials will help you make a choice. But also from the features installation work, their simplicity or complexity, availability, much depends.

Pros and cons of plaster

Increasing the slope by plastering is the most basic way of designing window opening. No need to buy tools or modern materials. Previously, people only plastered walls on their own and coped with this task perfectly.

Disadvantages of this method:

the surface may end up being uneven;
It is advisable to additionally insulate such slopes;
The work will take quite a lot of time, because you will need to apply the building mixture in several layers and let each one dry.

If you try, the new slopes will still turn out smooth and beautiful. As they say, the eyes are afraid, but the hands do. Should buy necessary materials, begin to restore the natural, usual design for apartments and houses.

It is important to take into account that in the end the slope will not look as harmonious with the windows as a plastic one. The sense of novelty and progress will be lost. But it will be cozy, and beauty in a “retro” style will return to the house.

The harmony of the design of the window opening is understood different people differently. This applies not only to curtains, the choice of plants, the color of the window sill, the color of the windows, but also to the slopes.

Installation features

How to make slopes with your own hands when the plaster wrinkles without defects? It is easier to make the surface if you use special plaster beacons. They are commercially available and can be plaster, metal, or wood.

It is better to choose gypsum ones, as they are very easy to handle. Metal ones are perfectly fixed, while wooden ones are easier to remove during the restoration process.

How many beacons are needed for one window? They are installed according to a clear pattern. The first one is attached next to the window frame, close. As a result, the distance of the overlap of the slope onto the frame should be about 50 mm. Beacons are also needed at the outer corners of the window opening. These areas are subject to greater stress this element strengthens them.

Painting corners help improve the effect, achieve optimal results, form correct angle. They are attached using gypsum putty.

To prevent the plaster from cracking, before starting to create a new surface, the old one must be thoroughly cleaned. You can achieve better adhesion of new materials to the surface if you make notches, although this is not necessary.

The surface must be coated with a primer. For plastering, a mixture of cement and sand is used in proportions of 1 to 2. Dry gypsum plaster is ideal for the upper slope.

Each layer is applied as carefully as possible, it is allowed to dry, leveled with a spatula, then the next one is applied. Sanding the last layer is a responsible process. You will not need a spatula, but Sander or sandpaper– with large grains and smaller ones.

A sealant that can be used before painting will help eliminate cracks in the corners, along the line where the slope connects with the window frame or wall.

That's all, the slopes are ready. The surface is primed and painted in the desired color. If insulation is provided, it is necessary, after removing old slopes, treating the walls with primer, putty, to install insulating material, fix with foam or with nails designed for this purpose. Then apply plaster.

Slopes made of plasterboard - many advantages

Installing slopes with your own hands from plasterboard is difficult at first glance. They do everything “scientifically,” as they say. Because of this, perhaps, the result is luxurious - the windows are neat, stylish, fashionable. True, you will need special tools that not every home has.

People are used to needing a hammer to hammer a nail, but it turned out that it is more practical to purchase a screwdriver. At the dacha, a hammer is relevant, but in an apartment with modern renovation No. And all because of drywall.

This is a light weight material, cut with a grinder. With its help, it is possible to create a perfectly flat surface in a short time. Such slopes can be repaired in case of minor damage using putty.

The disadvantage is that it is not resistant to moisture. Be sure to use a primer. It cannot be used to decorate surfaces on the street side.

They begin with the installation of the frame: a metal profile and guides are attached. Then the insulation is fixed and sheets of drywall are installed. The sides are sheathed first, and then the top.

If desired, if you have the skill, you can get the job done faster than if you choose plastering. Do-it-yourself door slopes are also often made from this material. It is beautiful and practical.

Sandwich panels for slopes

How to make slopes on windows with your own hands without extra effort? Sandwich panels are what you need. By purchasing them, you can simultaneously complete the decor and insulate the window opening. They are different colors, easily fixed.

In order to put the slopes in order, it is not necessary in this case to remove the old ones, but it is desirable that a truly durable surface, which will last for many years. If you decorate with sandwich panels old surface, the duration of their operation will depend on its condition.

The starter profile is placed next to the frame, and a wooden strip is taken for the outer edge. The sandwich panel is attached to them using screws and self-tapping screws.

Polyurethane foam carefully fills the void between the panel and the wall. The decorative profile is put on the corners and fixed. All that remains is to wipe the new surface and remove dust. The slopes are done new design will delight the eye with beauty modern materials, their combinations.

Photos of slopes with your own hands

Let's start with the slopes. Vertical slopes are very rarely allowed by the standards (with a pit depth of less than 1.5 m for certain types of soil). For different types The soil is normalized for different slopes, which are directly related to the angle of internal friction. In general, what is the angle of internal friction? To put it roughly, a pile of soil, poured into a cone at an angle of internal friction, will not tend to crumble - the soil holds itself. If you try to make the angle of the cone steeper, the soil will “move”, this is fraught with collapse, and in the case of a pit, collapse means possible loss of life.

If you are not limited in plan by the dimensions of the site, existing structures and communications, you can safely make pit slopes at an angle of 45 degrees - this angle is almost always acceptable (except bulk soils). Flatter angles are not rational - they take up a lot of space and require more work for excavation. Steeper angles need to be checked in the literature (whether they are acceptable for a given type of soil).

Below is a table from SNiP III-4-80 “Safety in Construction” (in Russia it has been replaced by a newer one).

The ratio 1:1 is 45 degrees (when the width of the slope in plan is equal to the depth of the pit). A ratio of 1:05 is a steeper slope at 60 degrees (when the pit depth is twice as large as the width of the slope in plan), a ratio of 1:1.25 is flatter (for bulk uncompacted soils with a pit depth of 5 m or more).

Remember, if the area on which you are designing a foundation is constrained by some circumstances, you always need to think through the production process before starting design earthworks so that later it doesn’t turn out that they can’t build a house at all.

Example 1. The simplest case. The plot is flat, the absolute elevation of the existing soil is 51.30. The 0.000 mark in the project is conventionally taken to be 52.07. Bottom mark foundation slab-3,000. A preparation of 100 mm thick concrete is provided under the slab. The construction site is not constrained by anything, the soil is loam.

By the way, please note that absolute marks are usually indicated with two decimal places, and relative marks with three.

Let us determine the absolute elevation of the bottom of the foundation slab: 52.07 – 3.0 = 49.07 m.

Let us determine the absolute elevation of the bottom of the pit (bottom of preparation): 49.07 – 0.1 = 48.97 m.

Pit depth: 51.30 – 48.97 = 2.33 m.

We accept the most convenient slope angle of the pit - 45 degrees.

Venetian sprats

If you stick thin, light slats onto a double-glazed window using double-sided tape or silicone, you will get the appearance of overhead bars, with beautiful name Venetian. They protrude above the glass, having a round or pyramidal shape, and can be easily removed if necessary.

Venetian layouts are made of wood, metal or plastic, their finish and color are in harmony with the main profile, sometimes the same. Typically, a frame cut out of plastic is simply glued to the glass outside or inside the window.

Such grommets do not change, but they interfere with the free flow of rainwater and collect dirt and dust at the joints with the glass. In order to thoroughly clean the windows, it is better to remove such layouts, but with repeated peeling off, decorative patterns and frames may not stick well to their original place.

Flat light table

These light tables are great for studying dry and flat objects. To make a flat table, remove the lid from the drawer and line the inside with white tissue paper. Use clear tape to secure the ends of the paper to the lid.

Put it in a box New Year's garland from white, not colored, light bulbs. Bring the end of the wire out and close the cover. If the lid doesn't fit tightly, it's okay. Plug the garland into a power outlet, if necessary, through an extension cord.

You can put bright plastic cups, sea-worn glass, transparent mosaic pieces, transparent construction kit parts and other objects that let in light on the box.

For windows to last a long time, they must be properly cared for.

This is especially important if there have been cases of moisture appearing on the windows. Simple tips to help you organize your care

Tip 1. Clean surfaces and glass regularly.

Clean the surface with a damp viscose cloth once a month. Detergents must not contain solvents. Cleaning with sharp objects is prohibited. Once every six months, a protective agent is applied to the profile.

Used to clean glass units chemicals. During cleaning, it is necessary to prevent such a product from coming into contact with the profile.

Tip 2. Treat rubber seals.

Strips of rubber, reinforced around the perimeter of the window, create a tight seal on the sash. They are subject to increased wear. In order to last longer, they need to be looked after: wiped and lubricated. The quality of cleaning will improve significantly, and the elasticity of the rubber will increase after using silicone oil.

Tip 3. Take care of the fittings.

Regular maintenance of the fittings is required after a year of use.

Moving elements must be protected from sand, debris, and dust. Special attention requires a handle: loose fasteners are immediately tightened.

The fittings will last a long time if you lubricate them annually with grease or car oil.

There are special slots in the mechanism for lubrication.

The service life of the fittings will increase when the summer or winter mode. In this case, the degree of pressing of the sash to the profile changes. Adjustment is performed using eccentrics and does not require experience.

Tip 4. Use a mosquito net correctly.

Before the onset of cold weather, the mesh is removed, washed and stored. A mesh left over the winter collects moisture, which destroys the profile.

Tip 5. Clean drainage channels regularly.

IN window frame holes are provided to remove moisture. Very often they become clogged with dirt and the water stagnates. In this case, traces of moisture appear inside the windows. Cleaning the channels with a wooden or plastic stick takes no more than three minutes.

Tip 6. Monitor the condition of the valves.

The plastic window should not be left open for a long time. In this case, the moving elements are deformed, in addition, the sashes sag.

For repairs, the linings are removed from the adjusting mechanism and the subsidence is eliminated.

So, if selected quality windows, the technology of their installation is not violated, organized proper care, then excess moisture will never appear on the windows.

Installation of plastic windows in an adobe or adobe house

A house built from adobe or clay bricks, is distinguished by its unique properties. In hot summers, such a house is cool, and the walls of the house are breathable. And in winter, a house does not freeze as much as a brick or cinder block house. Such properties are acquired by a structure made of clay mixed with straw.

About the benefits natural materials everyone knows, especially since construction clay house can be produced independently. In some cases, this option is completely justified from the point of view of economy, and such a structure will last for about a hundred years if it is lined inside and out.

Replacing windows in an old adobe-brick house

Surely many people are faced with such a problem as replacing windows in their apartment.

So there you go! Having owned an adobe house lined with brick, I decided to change the windows, since the old wooden ones had rotted and began to take on a not very attractive appearance. Stopped at metal-plastic windows. The first step was to take the measurements needed to make new windows. I took measurements based on the casing, quarreling quite a bit at the builders, because after a thorough inspection I realized that the dimensions of the window based on brickwork did not correspond to the dimensions of the window based on adobe masonry (the brick was laid around the casing).

I ordered the windows and received them. And now we need to start replacing. There was a fair bit of fiddling around here. Replacing a double-glazed window is a little different; we won’t talk about that now. Having examined the brickwork, I came to the conclusion that, in order to prevent the brick from collapsing, it is necessary to place a reinforcing corner on the upper part of the window. After installing the corner, I began dismantling old frame: having filed the frame on the sides, folded the sawed halves inward and pulled out first the upper, then the lower parts. After dismantling, I began to align the opening in the adobe with the opening in the brick. I had to cut the adobe with an ordinary hacksaw for wood - one hacksaw for two windows (after the adobe it is impossible to use a hacksaw anywhere). After alignment, we proceed to the main part of the installation - the installation itself. First of all, the seat needs to be thoroughly cleaned of all kinds of dirt and dust.

I took out the double glazing from the windows. At a level of 10-15 cm from internal corner I drilled holes through which the anchors will be attached to the wall. I placed the frame of the new window (without double-glazed windows) in the opening and leveled it, placing special backings that came with the windows, and outlined where exactly the anchor would be attached (anchors are bought with a screwdriver). I drilled holes according to the marks. I installed a window. I checked the horizon and verticals with a level. I inserted the anchors and baited them by hand. I checked all the planes again with a level and began to tighten the anchors little by little (literally - one turn at a time for each anchor and the opposite one diagonally). Once again, I checked all the levels. Then I inserted the shutter that will open. Then he inserted the double-glazed window into place and secured it. Checked all levels. And only after making sure that everything corresponded to the required levels, the joint between the window and the wall was filled with polyurethane foam. I used professional foam (i.e., for a pistol). After the foam had hardened, I checked how the window stood completely, and then began to do normal repairs associated with such changes and the replacement of windows with plastic ones was successful.

Digging trenches, pits, ponds

First of all, it is necessary to clear the face (the area on which the work is carried out, the excavator and additional equipment are located) of debris, large stones, stumps and any other unnecessary objects.

If soil needs to be transported over a long distance, the contents of the bucket are poured into the back of trucks. The optimal situation is when 3-7 full buckets fit in the back of the truck. The body is filled from the rear or side; moving the bucket over the cab is prohibited. Filling must be done evenly, but leveling the contents of the body with a bucket is not allowed.

The excavator must be placed at least 1 meter from the edge of the trench. The softer the soil and the deeper the trench, the further away the equipment is placed. A safe distance is recommended that exceeds the digging depth by 1 meter, and the excavator is positioned so that the driving pair of wheels is further from the edge than the driven one.

Digging artificial pond requires a preliminary study of the soil and the depth of groundwater. For such work, it is extremely undesirable to use old equipment; you won’t be able to save money this way, but you will get a lot of additional expenses. The most reasonable and correct option is to use an excavator capable of working over a long distance, this will save equipment and nerves.

When digging deep pits and trenches, observe general rule: the greater the depth, the flatter the slopes are made. If necessary, the walls are strengthened.

If you have to work in a wetland, take special shields with you, from which the work site is assembled. The size of this platform must exceed the length of the tracks.

Compliance with work rules, safety precautions and service instructions allows you to avoid unexpected situations, damage to equipment and material damage. It would not be superfluous to draw up a contract for the performance of work in a certain volume.

The difference between sprockets and overlays.

The main difference between sprockets and overlays lies in the method of their application. installed in inner part double-glazed window, while decorative overlays are glued to its glass with outside. As already mentioned, the difference between decorative components - frames, in particular, lies in their shape and size. To obtain harmonious combination elements in the designed structure, it is necessary to take a responsible approach to the selection of their length and width.

Decorative layouts inside a double-glazed window, even of the same size, can differ significantly in cost. The determining role in the price is played by the complexity of the manufactured product, as well as the material and number of components that are used to obtain it.

Sandblasting drawings on glass

Sandblasting patterns consist of grains of sand, but in appearance they look more like Frost patterns that appear on windows in winter. In a double-glazed window with backlight, sand drawing will give you a real feeling of a fairy tale.

Sandblasting can also make areas of glass matte. If you add patterns to this decor, the windows will look more impressive than designer curtains.

The design possibilities in Kaleva windows are limited, perhaps, only by the client’s imagination

To make unusual patterns on glass especially noticeable, I recommend paying attention to stylish window Kaleva Design.

Sincerely,

Igor

Material for decorative layouts.

Material used for manufacturing decorative overlays, as a rule, aluminum. It differs in width: 8, 18, 24, 26, 40 millimeters. Aluminum is painted in the required color.

In the inner part of the glass unit, the layout is attached with glue at the stage of its production, while on the outside - directly during assembly window design. By using it, you can achieve an exclusive appearance of the glazed facade of the building.

To additionally decorate a double-glazed window in this way, depending on the color of the installed layouts, connectors similar in color to them are selected. Arched windows are in most cases decorated with a layout in the form sun rays, using a special “sun” connector. However, most often connectors of a different shape are used, for example, cross-shaped.

Slopes in an adobe house – Blogs

Slopes in an adobe house

I live in a private house, the walls of which are made of clay, and the outside of the house is lined with brick. While carrying out renovations in the house, we decided to change the windows; the guys from the company that carried out the replacement did everything carefully. But there were problems with the slopes. The thing is that when building such houses, they first build a log frame, and then fill it with clay and get the walls of the house. So it turned out that there was clay on the slopes and the beams of the house frame protruded. The photo shows the beginning of the restoration of the destroyed slopes.

Restore slopes with ordinary cement - sand mortar it's pointless, it won't stick to clay, but how to cook clay mortar I don't know. Then I decided to assemble a metal profile and sew up the slopes with plasterboard, and insulate the resulting space between the plasterboard and the wall with min. cotton wool I have some experience working with drywall. The photo shows a UD profile jumper attached to a direct suspension.

First of all, I screwed the UD profile around the perimeter of the window. At the bottom of the slope, using wood screws, it was attached directly to the window sill. Vertically, the UD profile was attached to direct hangers, and the hangers themselves were secured to the wall with a dowel - a 6x110mm nail. The profile was attached to the upper slope (horizontal) with wood screws directly to the wooden beam.

In the photo, the slopes are insulated with mineral wool.

The second step was the installation of the CD profile, which is inserted into the UD profile. CD was used mainly for horizontal jumpers. The profiles were connected to each other using a press washer.

When I bought the insulation (mineral wool), the seller recommended some kind that mice don’t eat (I don’t remember the exact labeling), I thought that for a private home this was exactly what was needed. But mice eat polystyrene foam. Knowing that all this cotton wool causes skin irritation upon contact, and also has small particles that cause a sore throat and cough, I used gloves and a respirator when working with cotton wool. In a word, when working with mineral wool, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment. The cotton wool was tightly laid in a thick layer between the profile frame and the walls.

The photo shows the restored slopes.

Then, construction knife I cut out strips of plasterboard, and using metal screws, screwed the plasterboard onto a frame made of profiles. Next, using a stapler, on external corners a reinforced corner was attached to the slope. Next it was time to putty and paint.

I should note that in in this case plasterboard was the simplest and perhaps the only, given the characteristics of the house, method of finishing slopes. I liked the result of the work.

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Safety measures when digging pits

The soil from the side walls of a pit or trench, as a result of the action of gravity on them, can move and fill the bottom of the excavation. Due to the uncontrolled collapse of earth masses, accidents to people are possible. Also, destruction leads to an increase in labor costs and money: it will be necessary to restore the planned contour of the excavation and backfill the foundation with a large volume of soil.

In order to prevent crumbling and reduce the possibility of material losses to a minimum, it is necessary to correctly calculate, at the design stage, in accordance with SNiP 111-4-80, the steepness of the slopes of the excavation being created.

If the depth of a trench or pit, on average, exceeds 1.25 meters, then it is necessary to strengthen their walls in order to prevent possible collapses and earth slides. Along the contour of the excavated structures, strips should remain free from the excavated soil mass, the minimum width of which is more than 0.6 m. The earth from the excavation should not roll back.

The parameters of the side slopes must be determined correctly before developing the pit. This will allow:

prevent the possibility of collapses;
perform the optimal amount of excavation work;
will eliminate the cost of altering slopes during construction work.

Landslide prevention is a major safety concern for personnel.

Slope compliance optimal angles slope for this type of soil minimizes the financial and labor costs of backfilling and rework.

Slope formation

Before starting work, geological and hydrological surveys of the building site are carried out. If there is soil water, unstable soil, or if it is necessary to dig a hole more than 5 m deep, a project is created for the identified individual conditions.

According to SNiP 111-4-80 for non-moist soils that have a uniform structure, when digging trenches or pits it is possible to leave vertical side walls. In this case, there should be no structures near the excavations and no groundwater. The permissible depth of excavations for different soils with vertical walls is for:

gravel, sand – 1 m;
sandy loam – 1.25 m;
clayey and loamy - no more than 1.5 m;
very dense - 2 m.

In pits with a depth of about 1.25 m, it is required to use stepladders that will rise above the ground to a height of at least 1 m. In deeper excavations, flights of stairs are used.

The side surfaces of pits can be strengthened with construction. If there is a possibility of additional loads or slopes being washed out, they are covered with film or shotcrete is carried out (concreting with a thin layer).

Light table games

Fleeting collage. Give your child a variety of small things: a scattering of glass beads, pebbles, acorns, mosaic pieces, colored plastic cups or shells. Let the child lay out a pattern on a flat light table. By rearranging and combining small objects, the child will explore the relationship between color, shape and texture and create unique patterns and compositions.

Games with salt. Pour salt into a high-sided light box and invite your child to paint on it with their fingers. Once your child understands how salt and light interact, you can offer him brushes and stamps. Children quickly master this game and can independently select objects for further research.

Please note that salt tends to spread throughout the room, overcoming even the highest walls, so keep a broom or vacuum cleaner ready.

Hydrogel balls. Fill a light table with high sides with soaked hydrogel balls - and the child will get a lot of fun and interesting sensations (this is one of our favorite activities with our children). Initially, the hydrogel is sold as a filler for vases, so you can buy it in a craft store, in the “Plants” department.

If the gel is already soaked, pour it into the light table and start playing. Dry hydrogel beads are the size of a barley grain; soak them according to the manufacturer's instructions, and then pour them into a box standing on the backlight. If your child likes to put small objects in his mouth, keep a close eye on him while he plays.

Decorative triplex

Decorative triplex - several glasses, between which there is a layer of textiles, colored film, metal, wood or other materials. By combining different materials under layers of glass, you can achieve very interesting effects. Therefore, decorative triplex can be matched to any interior.

Decorative triplex, like stained glass, is of particular value for interior windows and doors. Light transmission fades into the background, allowing the owner to fully enjoy the design of the glass.

In addition, thanks to its unusual design, decorative triplex makes the window more reliable. He is not afraid of deformation, color fading or external influence. Decorative triplex also perfectly protects against noise and keeps it in the house.

Slope table

When you need to dig a hole at least 1.5 m deep, then you should take the slope angle of the pit according to the table given in SNiP 111-4-80. It takes into account both the type of soil and the depth of the foundation.

In construction literature, standards, and rules, the steepness of an excavation slope is measured in degrees (angle), or as the ratio of its height to the foundation.

Table of slope steepness for pits of different depths and at various types soil is presented below.

Despite the presence of slopes, there remains the possibility of collapse of the soil mass under the influence of the weight of the equipment involved. Therefore, the distance from the parking lot of cars to their sole is also regulated by SNiP.

When there is soil on the construction site different types, then the steepness of the slopes is chosen according to its most unstable variety. It is recommended to remove existing inclusions of boulders and stones using an excavator to prevent the possibility of landslides and collapses.

The walls of excavations up to 3 m deep are secured according to design instructions.

If the cohesion of the soil changes for the worse in the working area when water gets into it, during drying, under the influence of low temperatures, then it is recommended to equip slopes of lesser steepness, or with indents.

When formed side surfaces pits up to 3 m deep with steps, then the width of the latter should be at least 1.5 m. In this case, slopes must also be made.

Machine operation near slopes

If the design depth of the excavation exceeds 5 m, or the steepness of the pit wall differs from the table value, then the stability of the slopes must be calculated.

Pits or trenches dug during autumn or winter frosts must be inspected during spring thaws and the stability of their slopes determined.

With the slope angles discussed in the table for each type of soil and pit depth, workers can be in the excavation without the need to secure the slopes. If the slopes have been moistened, then before starting work they are inspected for cracks and peeling.

Features of this type of composition

Sand-effect wall paint is becoming more and more common, because this group of products is distinguished by its versatility in color and structural solutions. Quartz and river sand and other inclusions can be used as filler: sparkles, mother-of-pearl elements and much more.

The advantages of this group of products include:

Versatility and ease of finishing, as noted above, now you no longer need to purchase decorative plaster and paint separately. One composition is enough with which you can refine the walls. Of course, its price is significant, but the time required is much less.
The resulting surface becomes very strong and durable, its service life is over 10 years, while the colors will retain their brightness and attractiveness for the entire period of operation.
Very attractive result: you decide for yourself how to apply the composition; this largely determines how the walls will look after the work is completed. And if the composition contains, in addition to sand, particles of mother-of-pearl, then the surface will turn out to be very noble.

Mother of pearl gives the coating a unique shine

Advice! Before choosing one or another option, it is necessary to look at application samples, since it is impossible to imagine the final result only by the composition of the paint. If the seller does not have samples, you should at least look for them on the Internet, so you will clearly understand what you will get in the end.

Wide range of colors will allow you to choose the best option for any interior. Some sellers make white paint, and with the help of a colorant you can give it any desired shade.
The durability of the coating is so high that the composition can be used both inside and outside buildings: finishing the facade in this way looks simply gorgeous, but the cost of this option is very significant.

Recommendation. If your walls are already painted, then a transparent composition interspersed with sand or glitter is suitable: you simply apply the solution to the surface, and it will look completely different. In addition, such a layer perfectly protects the surface and extends its service life by at least twice.

The structure largely depends on the method of application, so you can make countless original, unique options

Replacing windows in an old house

If you need to replace old wooden windows plastic, the order of work changes somewhat, although the principle of its implementation remains the same:

Using a hacksaw, crowbar or other tool, old windows are dismantled. First, the old frames are trimmed with a hacksaw, and then, carefully so as not to damage the adobe, they are removed from their places.
By size window openings metals are ordered plastic windows.
Windows made to the required dimensions are inserted into window openings, checked according to the building level and secured to wooden embedded screws. If there are no wooden mortgages on the old walls, then the windows are attached directly to the walls using long anchors. When screwing anchors into clay walls, care must be taken to avoid cracking the adobe.
The gaps are filled with high-quality mounting foam. All surfaces are pre-wetted with water.
The protruding frozen foam is trimmed, after which you can begin installing the window sill and making window slopes.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in installing plastic windows in adobe or adobe house No. The most important thing is to take into account the characteristics of dry clay and use appropriate building materials to work with it.

Excavation of soil with an excavator

The excavator operating cycle includes several stages:

soil cutting,
platform reversal,
unloading the bucket,
reverse platform rotation,
installing a bucket to repeat the cycle.

The speed of work completion directly depends on the execution time of one cycle, more than 50% of which is accounted for by turning the platform. Thus, reducing the angle of rotation of the platform significantly speeds up trench digging.

When cutting soil, the engine must be running at full power. You should start immersing the bucket as close as possible, and empty its contents at the farthest point of the body or area specially designated for the extracted soil.

The greatest efficiency is achieved when the digging depth allows the bucket to be fully loaded. The optimal digging radius (the distance from the excavator body to the point where the bucket is immersed) is 70 - 90% of the maximum specified in the technical documentation.

To further reduce time and fuel costs, several operations are combined. For example, you can simultaneously rotate the platform while raising the bucket for unloading or lowering it for further digging.

Layout inside the glass unit

The sprockets made during the manufacture of the double-glazed window are placed between the panes. They are made from metal, plastic or wooden thin strips of various shapes.

The exquisite pattern of such windows makes your home unique. The material from which the frames inside the double-glazed window are made is the same as the outer frame of the window. The width of the slats can be large - almost 5 cm and small - about 1 cm. They are located at different angles, can be curved, crossed, and can imitate the division of a window into several sectors.

When choosing a decorative frame in a double-glazed window, you should remember that slats that are too wide will block the light and will not be able to be neatly curved. Metal shutters absorb heat, so they reduce the thermal insulation of the window.

A window with metal bars is colder than without them. If your house is located in a warm region, there is nothing wrong with this, but in the northern region of the country, it is better to choose another material for decorating windows: plastic or wood.

Aluminum sprats white The inside of the double-glazed windows are 9, 18 or 26 mm wide, depending on the distances between the glasses. The slats can be laminated on one or both sides with a film of the same color as the entire window profile.

Windows with interglazed spacers are very easy to clean, because the decorative gaskets do not protrude outward and do not collect dust and dirt from external environment. They are isolated from the outside world, sealed inside a double-glazed window. This makes their service life equal to the time the window glass remains intact.

Window. Translucent structures BlogStroiki

According to building codes and regulations, the window unit must be installed to a depth of 1/3 of the thickness of the load-bearing wall. If your wall thickness is 400 mm, then (400:3)x2= 266 mm. This means that we measure 134 mm from the outside to the installation line of the double-glazed window and the window will stand along this line. But here a problem arises: if the house is lined with brick flooring, which is 120 mm, and there is an air gap between the brickwork and the wall, then it may not be possible to accurately maintain the installation size of 134 mm. Therefore, it would be correct to install the window unit almost flush with the adobe wall. All gaps between the window block and the walls of the opening are filled with polyurethane foam, and only foam, not clay. Foam does not destroy the wall material; on the contrary, it fills all the smallest recesses in the walls and reliably connects the window block to the adobe. The only thing that must be done is, before using the foam, moisten with a spray bottle all surfaces of the window opening with which the foam will come into contact.

The gap on the outside of the window between the brickwork and the wall can also be foamed, and if its size allows, then thin polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, etc. can be installed in it. Then the surface of the slopes is leveled using plaster, a sickle mesh and finishing plaster are glued onto it. You can also additionally glue a strip of foam plastic, then a serpyanka mesh and use it to finish the outer slope.

To finish internal slopes, you can use plaster or plastic. Plaster is in most cases used to perform such work, as it has excellent characteristics.

Since your house is made of adobe and the walls of such a house breathe very well, it is best to use plaster on the slopes, which has similar properties.

After the starting putty has completely dried, a fine-grained finishing putty is applied, each layer of which is processed with sandpaper.

It has a large assortment in appearance, and creating an original design for slopes will not be difficult.

Plastic can be mounted on a slope only on a special sheathing, and to finish the slopes it is not necessary to make it too high. This can hide the space of the window opening itself.

You can choose plastic whose width will correspond to the width of the slope. Thus, it is possible to save money and time on finishing.

There are plastic sandwiches with insulation (see photo on the right), but this is not suitable for arranging slopes in your home.

What to do when windows leak

The easiest way to not have leaking plastic windows is ventilation, in which humidity and temperature are evenly distributed throughout the room.

IN different conditions are selected different ways ventilation.

Micro-ventilation.

This is a function provided by the window design. It is enough to set the handle to the upper position, and the sash will move a short distance for free access of air from the street.

Using a comb.

You can buy a comb at a hardware store

This is an additional fitting that limits the angle of inclination of the sash. The inclination is selected in steps up to 60 degrees. A hook is used as a limiter, which is mounted on the frame.

Installation of climate valve.

This is an additional device that is mounted on the top of the frame. It is connected to the street air and controls its flow into the room. The air flow is set manually or automatically. The ventilation process is automatic and controlled by the humidity level in the room.

Other ways to prevent current windows from appearing include:

installation of an air conditioner with a split system to maintain standard humidity and temperature;
increasing the glass area when replacing windows. Large glasses warm up better and cool down longer;
placing a convection screen on the windowsill that guides warm air on glass;
installing a fan in window opening to move air;
glass treatment with anti-fog for cars;
equipping glass with low-voltage electric heating, like in a car;
use transparent and thin curtains that do not block movement air masses. In addition, they will be a moisture filter;
do not crowd the window sill with bulky objects, flowers, containers with liquid;
Place a container of lime or salt on the windowsill. These compounds absorb moisture and dry the air;
contact window installers if there is a suspicion of poor-quality products or violations during installation.