Convenient DIY workbench. How to make a workbench in the garage: selection of materials. Making a simple table

If the main tools of a blacksmith are a hammer and an anvil, then for a carpenter there is nothing “more familiar” than his workbench. For people who work with wood, it can at the same time be a cutting platform and an assembly table, a stop and stand, a device for storing tools and even, if you want, a small carpentry machine, and sometimes a means of earning money. This article tells you how to make woodworking tables with your own hands. The instructions, photographs and drawings presented in it will help even a beginner to install this structure.

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First of all, after building a workshop, you need to make yourself a table. A table like a workbench, essentially. This is a table for work - fitting, assembling small things made of wood (stools, shelves, etc.). I'll call it an assembly table.

In fact, the second name for a workbench is “assembly”. But, as you already understand, its purpose goes far beyond assembly operations. Therefore, the design of a multifunctional workbench in a carpentry can be quite intricate (see drawing below), and its development (in the absence of experience) can be spent as much time as it takes to design the carpentry workshop itself.

General description of the carpentry workbench

At the heart of any carpentry workbench, regardless of the number of operations that are supposed to be performed with its help, there is always an ordinary wooden table. It is on it that the master will do carpentry, drill parts, process surfaces, assemble wooden trinkets into one complex design and surprise others with your skills.

A good solid table is the basis. And everything else - vices, clamps, boxes with tools and fasteners - all these are constant attributes of the most useful carpentry workshop.

Workbench project

To make a carpentry workbench with your own hands, you must first understand its parameters that are optimal for you.

The first and most important thing you should pay attention to when developing a project for a future workbench is its height. After all, you will have to work for him for a long time. And you can get tired standing at a workbench that is too high or too low in no time.

The dimensions of the workbench for work are chosen in such a way that you can work while standing at full height and without slouching. For a person of average height, the height of the table should be within 70...90 cm. But it is better to focus on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is at the level of your lowered arms. When a few centimeters are added to this height (the thickness of the workbench lid), you will understand that working while standing at such a table is a pleasure.

The optimal height of a carpentry table for standing work for a person of average height is 70-90 cm.

It is better to make the workbench cover, as well as the working surface, from solid wood or plywood. There are people who use particle board materials, light chipboard sheets, etc. for these purposes. We strongly do not recommend that you follow their example. This is a bad design - after all, the loads on the surface of the structure can be quite noticeable, and particle board under such conditions it will quickly fail.

Osya member of FORUMHOUSE

5 years ago I received 2 sheets of plywood as a gift from a neighbor. It was decided to use it in the construction of a workbench. The size of the workbench was determined immediately - it was a pity to cut such a sheet. Experience has shown that there are no extra centimeters at the table. The height was determined by the height of the palms from the floor and amounted to 850 mm.

Ideally, a homemade workbench should have a special tray on the lid for storing tools and wood blanks involved in the work, as well as special holes (sockets) for wedges and combs. Using wedges and (or) combs, parts and workpieces will be secured to the table surface. It is on the cover that auxiliary clamps (vises) should be mounted to fix the processed lumber.

The dimensions of the workbench may vary depending on the size of your workshop. But, as practice shows, the optimal dimensions of the lid are 700 mm wide and 2000 mm long.

The supports (legs) of the workbench can be made from wooden beam 120*120 mm, no more. This will be quite enough to ensure that the structure is stable and does not become loose under the influence of brute physical force.

Workbench installation

As practice shows, making a workbench is not difficult. Installing a workbench is no different from assembling an ordinary one wooden table. Vertical supports are fastened together using vertical boards and self-tapping screws. The working surface should also be secured to the supports using self-tapping screws.

When assembling a workbench, you should avoid using nails to connect parts. After all, this can subsequently lead to rapid loosening of the workbench and even to its distortion load-bearing frame.

In order to save space in the carpentry workshop, some craftsmen make a homemade workbench folding. It is mounted on the wall. This type of installation means that carpentry work will only be carried out when necessary.

CartmanSr FORUMHOUSE member

In the past, in cramped conditions, I had a workbench board - laminated MDF board 24 mm thick, with dimensions 1200x2200. It had minor modifications, such as: holes and grooves for fastening hand router and circulars, a flush-mounted metal frame with threaded holes for fastening rulers and mustache nuts at the bottom located at the fastening points hand plane And drilling machine from a drill with a rocker arm. The tabletop was attached to the wall on three hinges. During non-working hours, it was raised vertically and fixed to the wall. Under the board, also on hinges, are two triangles from the same board. She laid herself on them while working.

This design is an excellent way out of a situation in which the interior space of the workshop is very limited. But such a carpentry table does not withstand intense loads well, and it can only be made independently in exceptional cases.

After you have mounted the frame and working surface of the product, a simple carpentry table can be considered ready. But in order for it to turn into a full-fledged workbench and begin carpentry work, its functionality needs to be slightly expanded by adding specialized equipment to the design.

Taking into account the special specifics of the activity, the carpenter’s workbench must be equipped with appropriate equipment. And if necessary tools always at hand, this is an excellent indicator. And the structural elements of the workbench itself will help you correctly arrange devices, fastening materials and power tools.

Rear and front clamps

Rear and side (front) screw clamps are those elements without which no workbench simply can fulfill its main purpose. Therefore, this part of the structure should be built first.

The rear clamp is designed to hold lumber while planing. As shown in the diagram, its vice blocks move along the front edge of the workbench, allowing the workpiece to be securely secured using lead screws.

The side screw clamp (which, due to its special location, is called the front clamp by many) has the same purpose as the rear clamp. And these elements differ from each other only in their location. Here are the drawings of a carpentry table for making it yourself. FORUMHOUSE member

The fact of the matter is that in the design of a workbench, a lower shelf is absolutely necessary (especially on a mobile workbench). We use a lot of tools and have nowhere to put them outside while working. And it’s also inconvenient in the workshop - climbing back and forth on cabinets and shelves. Fold the same tool 10 times per hour...

The underbench can be adapted for storing power tools. For greater convenience, you can install cabinets and shelves here for small parts, fixtures and hand tools.

Having made a workbench that has all the listed elements, you can begin your carpentry activities. In the process of further work you may need additional accessories. But each master will be able to guess for himself what options to use and what elements to add.

You can learn about the material from which you can subsequently make various products on your carpentry workbench from our previous article. You can get acquainted with practical ideas regarding , in the corresponding section of our forum. Any FORUMHOUSE visitor can become familiar with it by visiting a special topic created for discussion.

Surely, every man in his youth, during labor lessons, more than once had to make some object out of wood, standing for more than one hour at such a device.

And now, having become an adult, and creating beautiful and practical works from wood, you are thinking about purchasing your own carpentry workbench. My advice to you is that you shouldn’t spend money, it’s better to spend a little personal time and get a quality “workplace” in return.

So, what is " carpentry workbench"? It is stable, solid (often made of wood), the purpose of which lies in the processing of all kinds of products using hand and mechanized tools.

If you are seriously thinking about making a workbench, you should note that there are several types:


Wood or metal?

First of all, before you start creating your own workbench, you should think about what material it will be made of. Wooden base will be appropriate if the intended working area does not take up much space.

The ideal option for the countertop would be laminated chipboard or pressed plywood.. For a stationary sample, a combination of planed wooden planks and metal.

Advice: an old unnecessary table or a high-quality door made of solid canvas will also work well as a base.

It is not advisable to make a workbench from metal, an acceptable compromise would be wooden cover and a frame with metal sheathing.

It is best to use not one or two vices, but as many as possible. Using some, secure without special effort long boards, while others are suitable for attaching small parts.

Dimensions and drawing

Before we start manufacturing, we need to think about its design, dimensions, and purpose. To manufacture parts and assemble the table, you will need to make a drawing. We indicate all the data on it with millimeter accuracy. Next, you will often have to use the drawing during the manufacturing process individual elements and during product assembly.

Advice: when drawing up a drawing, focus on the tabletop size of 1600x800 and a height of 870 mm.

Tools

What set of tools will the master need:


Of course, the list may vary depending on what material you decide to choose for the base of the workbench, and what design it will be.

Reference: It is extremely important to decide on the height of the workbench at the very beginning. For an experienced master It will be possible to make a device with an adjustable height; others are advised to focus on the distance from the extreme point of the arm bent at the elbow to the floor.

How to do it?

Manufacturing

This process occurs in several stages, the first of which is the base assembly. This is followed by installation of the countertop and installation of all necessary equipment.

We prepare vertical supports and lintels, drill through hole in a horizontal block. Then screw the nut and washer onto the bolt from the groove side. We install jumpers in the middle of the tabletop (there will be drawers between them), and slats are attached to them. The workbench cover will be bolted in place.

The base of the workbench is a wooden frame (it is recommended to use soft wood for their manufacture: linden or pine), the fastenings of which must meet all the requirements of rigidity and stability. That is why, between the legs of your desktop in horizontal view a jumper should be placed, and a drawer should be installed along the entire length. They must be secured at a safe distance from the floor (50 cm). This extra space can be useful in the future, and you can easily place small shelves or drawers at the bottom of the workbench.

Then we move on to the stage tabletop constructions. This can be done using several boards, but in this case they must be carefully processed, cleared of debris and sawdust. Its dimensions must exceed the width and length of the base. This solution is necessary for your convenience. This way the work area can be easily cleaned. The tabletop is fixed to the boards located on the opposite side of the workbench being created. Installation of the bars is simply impossible without several grooves (slots, joints) located in the base.

We cover the working surface we have created with a vice. To do this, we construct a plywood spacer from the wrong side, mark with a pencil or pen where the future holes will be. We drill them and attach the vice with nuts.

When creating the stops, adjust their height and place them at a sufficiently large distance from the vice. Such care will ensure guaranteed reliability, and you will be sure that the workpieces will remain on the surface without falling to the floor.

We also construct, they can be mounted on the support of the subsurface space.

Let's start creating drawer guides, which will subsequently serve as storage for all tools and large items. For them we take the back part of the workbench and make recesses.

We nail a couple of transverse bars to the base of the tabletop; grooves must be left for them prematurely. We attach slats horizontally to the jumpers; they will serve for the process of sliding the drawers.

We attach the tabletop to the base with bolts. Using a chisel, we make indentations, drill the indicated places, and then there will be bolts there. It is necessary that their heads do not cause injuries, so they are securely hidden in the countertop.

Assembly

A certain number of vices will need to be attached to the structure. Openings are prepared in advance for them, under which small plywood spacers are subsequently secured.

Be careful, place the vice at the same level to prevent destruction of the workbench.

We place the attachment points, after which we can start attaching the tools. Hardware is perfect for this.

Important: It is under no circumstances recommended to place the vice close to the corners of your table, otherwise there is a risk of the tool falling off.

It is easy to make supporting elements with your own hands. To do this, simply fix ready-made stops, or drill small openings of a certain size.

Attention: It is not advisable to use bolts as stops; they can damage parts, and dowels are unreliable. Create rectangles, they will serve as ideal and reliable fasteners. Secure the block to the end of the workbench.

Take into account the fact that quite heavy and massive things will subsequently be placed on the countertop, such as:

  • wooden clamps;
  • turning equipment;
  • milling element;
  • drill (stationary).

Therefore, it is so important to make sure that the fastenings are reliable and to think through all the options for convenience, so that you do not have to regret the location of certain devices in the future.

Finishing

The finished product can be tidied up using a grinder. After that, cover the entire surface of the desktop with drying oil as a protective and primer layer for paint. This way you will protect yourself from getting splinters and reduce the risk of injury.

Finally, you screw the corners (with bolts) at the base.

It would be more correct to install such a structure in an area of ​​natural light, that is, near a window. Take care of additional lighting workplace, also do not forget that there should be sockets next to the workbench; in such a situation, an extension cord can “save” you. The most comfortable time spent at a workbench will be if the table is not too high and the light falls from the left or from above.

Photo

Creating furniture is an individual process. You may well end up with something beautiful and convenient:

Useful video

The step-by-step manufacturing process is described in detail in the following video:

Conclusion

Once it appears on the farm, it will become an indispensable assistant and over time, you will see this for yourself. Firstly, a do-it-yourself workbench is a significant savings Money. Secondly, you, as a specialist, acquire practical skills. Thirdly, you will always have at hand comfortable table, on which you can create interesting and useful household items.

In contact with

Since ancient times, skilled craftsmen have strived to arrange the workplace as comfortably as possible and, in modern terms, ergonomically, which was considered the key to not only fast and efficient work, but also safety. In this regard, the rooms intended for repair and manual production were filled with all kinds of tables, shelves and boxes, the original material for which was wood. Over time, cheaper metal gradually replaced wood from the construction arena and began to be used for the manufacture of machine tools, metal furniture and various auxiliary equipment, especially relevant in a construction workshop. Since the goods offered by stores often do not meet the specified characteristics, and sometimes cost on par with industrial equipment, in our article we will share simple tips and tell you how to make wooden workbench with your own hands.

The main purpose and typical characteristics of the workbench

Regardless of its design features, a workbench is a work table, necessarily characterized by massive dimensions and stability, and intended for processing structures and products with a wide variety of dimensions. When designing a carpentry workbench, it is important to remember that the dimensions of the processed products directly depend on the dimensions of the workbench, and it is practiced to process products as manually, and with the use of power tools - drills and electric planes. A typical layout of a standard woodworking bench consists of the following elements:

  • The working surface for which it is used solid board, the thickness of which is at least 60 mm. To make the lid, experts advise giving preference to hard wood, such as oak or beech, using which you will not have to periodically change the working surface of the workbench, which is due to the high wear resistance of the material.
  • A vice designed for securing workpieces. They are installed on the front surface of the cover. Massive workbenches provide for the installation of several vices, separately designed for fastening small and large parts. Large vices are made of wood, while when choosing a vice of small dimensions, it is better to give preference to metal structures.
  • Bench supports are designed to improve stability general design, which are connected by longitudinal strips. To make them, it is advisable to use soft wood, linden or pine.
  • In the space under the workbench, on supports, you can install drawers designed for tools and any other work accessories.

Carpentry workbench: types of design

When developing a workbench project, it is important to take into account its design features, whether it will be installed permanently in the workshop or will be presented as a mobile structure. If you prefer a mobile design, optimal solution will make it easier due to the material used, which should be thinner. The mobile workbench can also be modified with a collapsible table top, as well as folding legs. In connection with the listed features, three types of workbenches are distinguished:

  • Mobile workbench designed for small repair work and manipulations with wood blanks;
  • Stationary workbench used for processing massive wooden blanks and heavy boards. It is easy to manufacture, but is “tied” to one place;
  • A collapsible or “transformable workbench” is convenient due to its collapsible design, which facilitates the process of replacing individual parts, and also increases the mobility of the entire structure. You can find out how to make a retractable workbench in specialized guides.

Carpentry or metal workbench: differences

In addition to the classification presented above, workbenches differ in their purpose. There are carpentry and metalworking workbenches. Since creation mechanic's workbench is associated with a number of difficulties, in this manual we will tell you how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands.

Dimensions and location of the workbench

In the process of creating a workbench, it is important to choose the right location. It should be in close proximity to natural light sources, if any. Local light sources will also not be superfluous. We must not forget about electrical sockets, which should also be close to the workbench. All wires located in work area, it is preferable to include corrugated pipe or box

Before starting to build a workbench, experts recommend deciding on its final height. To do this, you need to lower your arms down, after which your palms are parallel to the floor. The distance between the floor and your palms is the very height of the desktop that is most convenient for you. Since homemade workbenches are often designed for a single workplace, the length of the table is 1.5 m and the width is 0.8 m.

How to make a workbench video

How to make a workbench in the garage: selection of materials

The selection of material for the manufacture of a workbench is an important stage of the entire work, which determines the final strength and stability of the structure being constructed. Before you make a carpenter's workbench, let's talk about the rational choice of materials needed for its manufacture. According to experts, the optimal material for constructing a workbench is planed timber, which is suitable for making a frame frame and legs.

Ideal dimensions of planed timber:

  • for legs - 100x70 mm;
  • for jumpers - 100x50 mm;

For the tabletop, it is better to choose 5 cm thick boards, or a solid piece, such as an old wooden door or chipboard, characterized by a laminated surface. It is important to know that it is better to give preference to hardwoods such as oak, maple and beech.

How to make a workbench table? Sequencing

Making a workbench includes several stages, the most fundamental of which are:

  • Base assembly;
  • Installation of countertops;
  • Installing equipment on a workbench.

Base assembly

Foundation like structural element workbench, represents wooden frame, fastening of which is carried out in such a way that the structure meets all the requirements of rigidity and stability. For these purposes, it is necessary to install a horizontal jumper between the legs of the workbench, and in the middle, along the entire length of the structure, it is important to install a frame. Both the lintels and the drawer are fixed at a distance of 40-50 cm from the floor. Subsequently, they can be used not only to strengthen the structure, but also to install shelves and drawers for improvised tools. When constructing the base, the beams are secured using a tongue-and-groove connection, and in those places where this is not possible, self-tapping screws are used. It is preferable to first prepare the grooves and tenons, according to the existing drawing, and only then glue the joints of the beams with wood glue.

If you're building a permanent workbench, one or more pieces of the frame can be attached to the wall, adding even more strength to the final structure.

Making a countertop and installing it

  • When thinking through the stages of making a tabletop, we must not forget that it should be slightly larger than the base. From previously prepared thick boards, a massive shield of the previously indicated dimensions is knocked together, for fastening which long nails are used, driven into the inside of the boards. The boards used are pre-fitted to each other to prevent debris from getting into the existing cracks. For the installation of the countertop, the use of materials for the manufacture of which pressed chips were used is excluded, since they do not meet the requirements for its stability. Several transverse bars are nailed to the tabletop, for which it is necessary to provide grooves in the base. Horizontally oriented slats, which are needed for sliding the drawers, are attached to these jumpers using self-tapping screws.

  • The tabletop is attached to the base with bolts. To do this, a recess is made in the upper part of the base bars using a chisel, and holes are drilled in the tabletop for bolts, the heads of which are recessed into the lid by drilling recesses of the appropriate diameter in the tabletop. In order to avoid injury from falling wood chips during subsequent work, the tabletop is sanded several times and coated with drying oil.

Equipment installation

  • TO installed countertop attach a vice, for installation of which recesses should be provided in the end of the tabletop. In the place where the vice is installed, plywood is attached to the underside of the tabletop. When installing a vice, first lay it down, mark where it will be attached, and then secure it with nuts and bolts. Remember that the vise should not be positioned on the edge, which will cause gravity to shift as you work.

  • In addition to vices, classic equipment for a workbench are wooden clamps, a high-power stationary drill, certain types of turning equipment, and a milling element. In a dacha setting, it will also be useful to install an angle grinder and a circular saw. When installing equipment on a workbench, it is important to think through all the details of convenience and safety, and also check the strength of all fasteners. If the equipment operates from the electrical network, it is important to correctly calculate the power of the simultaneously connected equipment, as well as to correctly carry out the connection itself.

How to design and make a universal workbench?

This article did not examine in detail the process of making a metal workbench, and also does not explain how to make an iron workbench due to the complexity of this process, however, we consider it necessary to consider an option that involves combining metalwork and carpentry workbenches, which is especially important in conditions country houses and plots.

To do this, make the same workbench as given in the instructions, but slightly increase the working surface area. Sometimes this may require strengthening the base through the use of additional frame elements. When the tabletop is installed, one half is covered with a sheet of thin of stainless steel, which is secured with self-tapping screws. IN ideal cover not only the upper part of the tabletop, but also its end elements.

For a thrifty owner, a work desk is an indispensable attribute of a garage, barn or an extension to the house. Of course, you can also purchase a carpentry workbench. But if it is a product from a well-known brand, then it is quite expensive. In addition, it is not known whether it will fully meet all the needs of the master. Cheap tables won’t last long – that’s for sure.

The most rational decision, if you really want to have the most convenient and versatile carpentry workbench, make it yourself. Having dealt with the optimal sizes, drawings, features of the selection of materials and a number of other issues, it will become clear that there is nothing difficult about this for any man.

Selecting a workbench project

This is where you need to start. Any desktop is made for specific purposes and premises. Carpentry workbench is a generalized name. One is needed only for woodworking personal plot(for example, during construction or overhaul), the other is assembled for everyday work with small parts, and from different materials. Depending on the specifics of use and installation location, its design features, dimensions, and drawing are determined.

Option A – portable (mobile) workbench. This type of desktop is most often assembled with your own hands for small rooms(extension, garage), with a complex layout, and its main purpose is to carry out minor works with small parts. The relatively light weight of the structure makes it easy to move it to another segment if necessary. As a rule, the maximum that can be equipped with such a workbench is a medium-sized vice and electric sandpaper. This will allow the carpenter's table to be partially used for small plumbing work.

Option B – stationary workbench. His distinctive feature– massiveness. Such carpentry tables are mainly needed by those who are often involved in sawing (dissolving) lumber - dimensional boards, timber or logs. In practice, amateur craftsmen install them on the site only during the construction of a house or outbuilding. After completion of the work, they are used infrequently - for “rough” technological operations. For a private home such a workbench is needed, but for a garage (taking into account small sizes boxing) is hardly suitable.

Option B is essentially an intermediate (prefabricated) structure (with bolted connections). Its advantage is the ability to modify or refine something at any time, depending on the tasks being solved. But a significant disadvantage is the complexity of assembly. And if vibrating mechanisms are installed on such a workbench (the same electric sharpener), then it will have to be constantly put in order (all fasteners must be tightened).

For household purposes, the home craftsman is best suited for the table according to option A. It is called mobile purely conventionally, only because of its relatively low weight. If a specific place is allocated for it in a barn or garage, nothing prevents the owner from fixing its legs to the floor (fill it with concrete, “fasten” it with large screws, and so on). With your own hands - whatever you want.

Drawing up a drawing of a carpentry workbench

If the workbench is assembled for domestic use, then there are recommended linear parameters (in cm) that you can focus on. But this is not an axiom, so the master is free to change anything at his own discretion.

  • Length – at least 180.
  • Width work surface– 90±10.
  • Workbench height – 80±10 (taking into account the thickness of the tabletop). When deciding on this parameter, you need to focus on personal growth. It is unlikely that working with wood will be effective and bring satisfaction if you have to constantly stoop or, on the contrary, rise “on tiptoe”.

What to consider:

  • The number and type of compartments in the table cabinet. These can be open boxes, drawers or drawers with doors, or shelves. Another thing is whether the master needs them?
  • To make it more convenient to work with samples of different lengths, it is worth drilling several “sockets” in the tabletop to install limiters.
  • To secure workpieces, it is advisable to have a couple of clamping devices (clamps or screw vices) on the workbench. The optimal width of their “sponges” is 170±5 mm.
  • Desk location. Depending on the level of illumination, the number of lamps mounted on the workbench (and above it) is determined. But at least a couple of pieces, on the edges of the tabletop, are necessary for “spot” lighting.

If the owner is left-handed, then this should be taken into account. All standard drawings posted on the Internet are designed for craftsmen whose “working” hand is their right. Consequently, you will have to place additional equipment on the table according to the “mirror” principle.

Example of a workbench drawing

Selection of materials

Planed timber. It will go to the frame (frame) of the workbench. The section is selected in accordance with the dimensions of the structure. For a large table - no less than 100 x 100. If it is compact, for universal use, you can limit yourself to blanks 100 x 70 (50). They are also perfect for various jumpers. Board. For a tabletop, its minimum thickness is 50. Here you need to think about how to use the workbench more efficiently. For example, to make it truly universal, one part of it can be specially adapted to perform metalworking work, that is, with metals. In this case, it is advisable to take a more massive board (for example, “sixty”) and beat a small segment of the tabletop sheet iron. This is just one of the ideas that you can implement with your own hands when determining the design features of the workbench.

A work desk is not installed in residential areas. And in the workshop there will definitely be changes in both temperature and humidity. That's why Wood recommended for making a workbench is hornbeam, beech, oak. The only disadvantage of this solution is the high cost of materials. You can choose a cheaper option - maple, larch. These rocks are quite hard. Although for the tabletop of a homemade workbench, if it is not planned to carry out any “impact” work on it, sometimes slab samples (chipboard, OSV) are taken. In principle, any good owner can easily determine what suits him best.

Wood that is too porous should not be used. Even high-quality treatment with antiseptics and oils will only increase the water-repellent properties, but will not add strength to the wood.

Fasteners

  • Bolts. There are no particular difficulties with them. They must be of such length that reverse side it was possible to install a washer, a groover and a nut. It is more difficult with other types of fasteners.
  • Nails. How advisable it is to use them when assembling a workbench with your own hands (and such recommendations are found quite often), everyone will determine for themselves. But a number of comments are worth making.
  1. Firstly, a nail, especially a large one, easily splits wood, especially if it is overdried.
  2. Secondly, it is unlikely to be able to drive it strictly vertically, given the length of the leg and the strength of the wood from which the workbench is made.
  3. Thirdly, it is difficult to dismantle. For example, if it is necessary to repair a desktop with replacement of a component. It is not always possible to pull out a tightly driven “powerful” nail.
  • Self-tapping screws. For a small workbench - the best choice. The most “problem” areas can be additionally reinforced with metal strips, corners, and plates. The main thing is to correctly select the length of the fastener leg. There is a rule according to which it must exceed the thickness of the part being fastened by at least 3 times. Otherwise, the strength of the connection is in question.

Instructions for assembling a carpentry workbench

In the process of making a desktop with your own hands, the master must constantly, at every stage, control the angles and levels. The slightest distortion, even in one place, and everything will have to start all over again.

Making workbench parts

  • This is easy to do using the dimensions shown in the drawing.
  • Each sample is carefully polished.
  • Depending on the type of wood, an impregnating composition is selected and parts are treated to protect them from destruction by rot and wood-boring insects.
  • Drying. This is worth emphasizing. This process cannot be initiated using artificial heating, otherwise the workpieces will begin to deform - bend, twist. Moisture should evaporate only naturally - in a room with room temperature and good ventilation.

Assembling the supporting frame (workbench base)

Part of the fastening features have already been said - self-tapping screws + reinforcement elements. But still, the main method of fixation is a tongue-and-groove connection with wood glue. But the fasteners only add strength to the entire structure of the workbench. But this is practiced only for massive tables that are not planned to be disassembled in the future (stationary options).

Here you should take into account the degree of maintainability of the workbench. If it is located in a room with good conditions, then the wood is unlikely to quickly begin to rot. In such cases, adhesive joints are quite justified. For work tables that are located in cold sheds, unheated boxes, and especially under open air, “landing” on glue is undesirable. Partial repairs will not be possible, and you will have to reassemble the frame.

Additional reliability of the structure can be ensured by installing various jumpers - diagonal, horizontal. This is all thought out at the stage of drawing up the drawing, although “rework” can be done during the installation process.

Tabletop

This is the most loaded part of the workbench, and it is advisable to make it removable. In this case, it is easy (if there is significant damage) to replace 1 - 2 boards.

  • The width of the tabletop is selected so that its surface extends slightly beyond the perimeter of the frame. Otherwise, working on such a workbench will be inconvenient. And it will no longer be possible to secure the removable vice.
  • The sides of the boards are carefully sanded. If you do not achieve an accurate fit of the samples, you cannot avoid the appearance of cracks.
  • The blanks are laid face down (on a flat base) and fastened with bars. They are placed perpendicular to the center lines of the boards, and the thickness of the latter allows them to be tightened with thick screws. As a last resort, it is easy to drill deep chamfers at individual points.

  • To make the tabletop removable, it is fixed to the frame using metal corners.
  • After its manufacture, additional grinding of the front part is performed. To extend the service life, it is advisable to treat the working surface with impregnating agents (wood oil, drying oil).

Workbench equipment

At what stage and what exactly needs to be done is decided depending on the modification of the desktop and the selected drawing. For example, the same vice. They can be purchased ones that are easy to attach to the edge of the workbench. People experienced in carpentry make clamping devices on one's own.

In principle, a man who is “friendly” with the simplest tools should not have any difficulties when assembling a carpentry workbench. The only recommendation is that before you start drawing up a drawing, you should carefully review all the photos of desktops available on the Internet.

Even if there are no sizes on them, it is not difficult to determine them. But with a high degree of probability we can say that new, interesting ideas will appear. After all, the workbench can also be folding, which is very convenient in a small box or shed. Yes, and having familiarized yourself with the table configuration, design features various models, you can come up with something of your own, original. After all, the beauty of assembling it yourself is in the absence of any canons. Only creativity + knowledge of the issue.

Every House master knows that a well-equipped workshop with a stable and reliable carpentry workbench, equipped with all kinds of devices for processing parts, is half the success in the manufacture of wood products. Of course, you can buy a desktop in a retail chain. However, we recommend making it yourself. Firstly, this will allow you to receive the product the right size and functionality. Secondly, when building a workbench optional equipment can be placed in the most rational way. Thirdly, the cost of the machine will be much lower than the factory version, which will allow you to buy a high-quality tool with the money saved. If these arguments have given you a reason to think about making a workbench with your own hands, then our drawings, instructions and recommendations will help you build a good-quality, reliable and functional carpentry workbench.

Purpose and design of a typical carpentry workbench

A durable and reliable carpentry workbench will provide convenience and comfort during prolonged work with wooden parts.

A carpenter's workbench is essentially a massive, reliable table for processing wooden products any size. The main requirements for equipment of this type are strength and stability. In addition, the machine must be equipped with at least a minimum set of devices for securing and holding workpieces. The dimensions of the work table are selected depending on the size and weight of the parts being processed, as well as free space in a workshop or garage. By the way, there are designs of compact workbenches that can even be placed on a balcony.

The design of a carpentry workbench with a stacked tabletop. In the figure: 1 - base or underbench; 2 - bench board; 3 - miter box; 4 - screed; 5 - vice; 6 - support beam

Since the work carried out on a carpentry machine is carried out using manual and electric tool, the workbench is made of solid timber and thick boards. By the way, the work surface, or in other words, the workbench board, is assembled only from hard wood. When making countertops, dry oak, beech or hornbeam boards with a thickness of at least 60 mm are used. If the tabletop is made of pine, alder or linden, then its surface will wear out quickly and will require periodic updating. Often, a workbench cover is assembled from several narrow and thick boards, placing them on an edge.

A series of holes made on the working surface of the table allows you to install thrust elements for easy processing of long wooden workpieces.

In order to facilitate the design support legs the desktop, on the contrary, is made of soft wood. The vertical supports are connected to each other longitudinally installed beam to increase the stability of the product.

Typical diagram of a carpentry workbench

A vice of a special design is hung on the front and side of the workbench for fastening workpieces. In addition, on large-sized machines, separate clamping devices are installed for large and small parts. The optimal location for a carpenter's vice is the left side of the front apron and the near part of the right side panel.

In the underbench - the space between the supports, under the table top, convenient shelves and drawers are often installed for storing tools and accessories.

For convenience, a recess is made in the back of the tabletop for fittings and small parts. Often, a difficult-to-manufacture recess is replaced with a frame made of wooden slats.

Types and design

All homemade work tables for carpentry work can be divided into three types:

  1. Mobile workbenches weigh up to 30 kg, dimensions are less than 1 m in length and up to 70 cm in width, are equipped with one vice and are made partly from metal elements. Such machines are intended for working with small, lightweight workpieces or minor repairs of wooden products. A mobile desktop is an excellent option if there is a lack of space and can be installed in any room in the country house or on the balcony. Often, mobile workbenches have a folding design.

    Homemade carpentry workbench with mobile design


    If there is no need for a stationary, professional workbench, then for minor repair work or the manufacture of small parts you can convert an old desk.

  2. A stationary carpentry workbench is made with reference to a specific location and is not intended to be moved during operation. Equipment of this type allows you to process parts of any size and weight.

    A stationary carpentry workbench is a reliable, stable structure, arranged in accordance with the preferences of the owner and the characteristics of the room

  3. The compound type machine is the most difficult to manufacture. However, due to its variability, this design is the most practical and functional structure. If necessary, individual parts of the workbench can be easily replaced, since the elements of the workbench are connected to each other by bolted joints.

    A composite workbench is a structure that can be adjusted to any requirement

Project and drawings

When developing the design of a carpentry workbench the most important criteria are height, configuration and equipment. In addition, it is necessary to take into account who will use the desktop - left-handed or right-handed.

Considering that you will have to work at a carpentry bench for a long time, the closest attention should be paid to the height of the future structure. For people of average height, experts recommend making a table no higher than 90 cm.

Drawing of a carpentry workbench

When determining the distance from the floor to the tabletop, it is best to focus not on average parameters, but on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is at the same level as the hands. If you calculate this parameter taking into account the thickness of the tabletop, then you will be able to work tirelessly at such a workbench for several hours.

The machine cover can be made of boards, solid wood or plywood and is a composite structure. It is not recommended to use chipboard or OSB for these purposes. Professional carpenters have long ago determined optimal size tabletops - maximum 2 m in length and 0.7 m in width. On such a workbench, you can equally easily make a prefabricated wooden door, and a small window.

When designing a structure, do not forget about the strength of the supporting frame. For supporting elements of the structure, timber with a cross-section of at least 100x100 mm is used. As longitudinal and transverse reinforcing elements, it is allowed to use slats and beams with a smaller cross-section - from 50 - 60 mm or more. The joints of the parts are mounted on tenons or dowels; furniture corners and other fittings are used for strength, and all connections are made using bolts and self-tapping screws. Nails will not be able to provide the required stability and fundamentality of the structure.

Carpentry workbench. View from above

Often the frame, or otherwise the workbench frame, is made of metal. Despite the fact that this material makes it possible to create a height-adjustable structure with less labor, professional carpenters prefer all-wood structures.

Next, let's look at a project for a carpentry table made from plywood, or more precisely from two plywood sheets 1.8 mm thick glued together. The dimensions of the lid are 150x60 cm. The edges of the tabletop are reinforced with plywood strips, which increases its thickness to 72 mm. By the way, the presented dimensions are not a dogma and can, if necessary, be adjusted in accordance with the needs and characteristics of the specific room used as a workshop.

Required tools and materials

Plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is a fairly expensive material (the price of one sheet measuring 1.5x1.5 m is more than 700 rubles, excluding delivery costs). Our project will require at least two sheets of this material. You can save a little if you buy one, larger sheet measuring 2500x1250 mm. Additionally, if possible, try to purchase scraps of plywood at least 300 mm wide, which will be used to reinforce the workbench cover around the perimeter.

Additional for construction carpentry machine you will need:

  • wooden beam with a cross-section of at least 100x100 mm - for supports;
  • timber or slats with a cross-section of at least 60x60 mm - for frame reinforcement elements;
    When choosing lumber for a carpentry workbench, carefully inspect the workpieces for the absence of knots and cracks. Remember that these parts will be subject to prolonged load;
  • electric drill with a set of regular and feather drills;
  • pieces of boards at least 1.5 m long for placing under clamps;
  • wood glue. Good result can be obtained using the domestic adhesive composition “Moment Joiner”;
  • furniture bolts with nuts and self-tapping screws;
  • Circular Saw;
  • carpenter's square;
  • long rule (at least 2 m);
  • construction level;
  • a notched spatula with the size of the cut sectors not less than 3 mm;
  • carpentry clamps.

The clamps needed to compress plywood sheets when gluing must be strong and reliable. If you are a non-professional carpenter and do not have high-quality tools, then you can get by with inexpensive clamping devices made in China. Of course, the number of such devices should be doubled.

Manufacturing instructions

  1. To make the tabletop, cut two pieces with a circular saw. If you managed to purchase a plywood sheet maximum length, then you need to saw off one piece 1520 mm long from it. By cutting it in half, you will get two parts 1520x610 mm. After this, use the rule to check the concave and convex sides of each sheet. This will make it possible to correctly orient the sheets when gluing.

    High-quality gluing ensures clamping of tabletop parts with clamps


    To glue correctly plywood sheets, they are folded with their convex sides facing each other.

  2. Having laid one workpiece on three parallel boards, apply wood glue to its surface. To do this, use straight and notched spatulas. Remember that the work must be carried out very quickly, otherwise the composition will begin to set prematurely. The manufacturer of Moment Joiner glue recommends joining the parts no later than two minutes after the start of applying the composition. Therefore, if you are not confident in the speed of your work, use wood glue, which has no time restrictions. Of course, the strength of the connection will be slightly reduced, but even the PVA furniture mixture good quality will provide an acceptable degree of adhesion.

    To avoid damage to the workpiece, support boards are placed under the clamps

  3. Having laid the second blank on top of the first, place support boards around the perimeter of the future table top and begin to tighten the table top with clamps. At the same time, do not forget to control the flatness of the part using a rule. It will not be possible to tighten the center of the workpiece with clamps, so in this part you can install a load weighing at least 15 - 20 kg.

    You can glue plywood sheets into a board without clamps, if you can find a perfectly flat surface for laying them, as well as a load of sufficient mass.

  4. After the glue has dried, the clamps are removed and they begin to strengthen the side surfaces of the tabletop. To do this, strips of plywood 15 cm wide are glued along the entire perimeter of the lid in two layers. When performing this work, be sure to ensure that upper layer completely covered the joints.

    Reinforcing the side parts of the workbench with additional plywood strips

  5. A circular saw is used to trim the side surfaces of the table. The parquet is driven smoothly, slowly. It is convenient to use the same rule as a guide. The tabletop is given a size of 1500x600 mm, observing right angles, for which they use a carpenter's square or a factory corner of a plywood sheet.
  6. The workbench supports are made of timber with a cross-section of 100x100 mm, connecting them with legs and drawers, for which lumber with a cross-section of at least 60x60 mm is used. In our case, the height of the machine is 900 mm, however, you can adjust this size to suit your height.

    Making a carpentry workbench frame

  7. The legs are assembled “in a tenon” or using dowels, making sure to apply wood glue to the parts to be joined.
  8. When assembling the upper and lower frames of the subframe, scrupulously maintain 90-degree angles between the parts. It will be easier to fulfill this requirement if, even at the stage of preparing the parts, their edges are trimmed correctly. The width of the frame of our structure is 900 mm, and the height of the frame is 830 mm, taking into account the distance from the floor to the bottom rung of 150 mm.

    Holes made in the parts with a feather drill will help hide the bolt heads and washers.

If desired, you can build a shelf in the bench. To do this, a plywood panel is cut to the size of the lower space, in the corners of which rectangular cutouts are made for the legs of the machine.

Installation of additional equipment

It is impossible to imagine a real carpentry workbench without devices designed for fastening the workpieces being processed. For these purposes, a vice is attached to the finished tabletop in such a way that its jaws are flush with the surface of the lid. To correctly install the device on the workbench, apply a vice to the machine and mark the fastening points. After this, holes with a diameter of 12 mm are drilled and the tool is installed on the machine using a bolted connection with an M12 thread. When performing this operation, be sure to mill holes for the washers and bolt heads.

View of the finished product with a vice installed

If it is not possible to install a stationary vice, you can do without them by using bench clamps or clamps.

In addition to the vice, there are stops on the work table. To do this, a series of holes are drilled in the tabletop. The best stops are considered to be parts made of wood, since metal devices can damage the workpiece. The sockets for the supporting elements are located at a distance equal to half the stroke of the vice. This will allow you to securely secure a workpiece of any size.

Video: Do-it-yourself carpentry workbench

Building a carpentry workbench is quite a difficult task. However, a self-assembled machine will allow you to work in a convenient, comfortable environment. This requires not only to think through the ergonomics of the workspace and correctly prepare a construction project, but also to carry out the work in full accordance with the recommendations of professional carpenters. Only then will the resulting product be durable and stable, pleasing its owner throughout for long years services.

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