Technology for building a house from profiled timber with your own hands. Assembling a house from profiled timber with your own hands Assembling timber houses

Profiled timber has recently begun to conquer the market, especially in the construction of low-rise, private, mostly country houses. And the reason lies not only and not so much in the low price of houses made of profiled timber.

Just 10-12 years ago it was built 3-4 times more houses from ordinary or profiled timber of natural humidity than other wooden structures combined. But then construction technologies from dry and laminated timber, which allow you to move into a house immediately after completion of work, almost forced timber with natural humidity out of the market. However, in the context of the economic crisis that broke out in our country, both developers and builders remembered undried profiled timber. The fact is that this technology has its advantages.

Why choose profiled timber for building a house?

Our compatriots use this material. usually for two reasons. The first is economic. the second is rather subjective-psychological. Let's start with the economy.

Firstly, dry profiled and laminated timber are more expensive similar material natural humidity: the first - about 2 times, the second - 3-3.5.

Secondly, for ready house, in which you can move in immediately, you must pay the entire amount at the same time.

But a dwelling made of timber with natural moisture is built in several stages. Therefore, materials and work are paid at different times. Usually, at least two stages are required: first, the box of the house is built, which is left to stand for about a year, and then its final finishing is carried out.

However, if necessary (primarily financial), the process is divided into large quantity stages. In addition, the gap between them can be increased, depending on the availability of financial resources.

As a result, the cost of 1 m 2 (without finishing) of a structure made of profiled timber with natural humidity, without taking into account the price of the foundation, turns out to be more than modest - 10 thousand rubles. That is why many customers are ready to put up with it. that the construction process is being delayed.

Now about the non-economic factor. The walls of a house built from both laminated veneer lumber and profiled timber with natural humidity, 200-220 mm thick. turn out to be quite cold - their reduced resistance to heat transfer is in best case scenario 2.22 m 2 °C/W.

While this indicator, according to the current SNiP. for example, for the Moscow region it should be equal to at least 3.28 m 2 °C/W. That is, the structures in both cases will have to be additionally insulated and then covered.

However, neither among the builders nor among the customers are there those who want to insulate a beautiful and smooth wall made of laminated veneer lumber, which already costs a considerable amount. And so that heat loss through the walls is less noticeable and heating costs increase only slightly, construction companies When building houses from this material, the thickness of the insulation layer in the roof and basement is often increased to 300-350 mm.

As for profiled timber, it seems logical to everyone to insulate the outside of walls made from it that have natural cracks. Moreover, insulated and externally lined walls are no more expensive than structures made from laminated veneer lumber.

And now, using the example of a house designed by the Architectural Studio of Alexandra Spitsyna and built by the StroimDom company, we will consider the technology and stages of construction of a dwelling (total area 196 m2) from profiled timber with natural humidity.

We build a house from profiled timber in stages

Given the difficult economic situation, the customers asked to split the construction of the house into as many stages as possible. Architects and builders met their clients halfway and planned its construction in six stages.

Stage one is the foundation.

Based on geological survey data, the architect considered several possible foundation options and calculated the cost of each of them. The pile-grillage foundation was considered optimal in terms of price and quality ratio - and that was erected.

Stage two - house box made of profiled timber

They decided to build it from profiled timber with natural humidity with a cross-section of 195 x 145 mm. At the same time, they did not order a ready-made house kit made of timber with pre-cut connecting bowls - the log house was assembled from timber of a standard length (6 m), and all its connections were made directly at the construction site. A fireplace stove with a chimney was built inside the log house, and then a rafter structure was erected, which was covered with a vapor-permeable membrane, pressing it with counter-lattice slats. Next, the sheathing was nailed to them and two layers of roofing felt were laid on top. The house stood for six months - the main shrinkage of the timber should have ended.

Stage three - start of finishing

First, we made the basement and interfloor ceilings from timber with a cross-section of 200 x 100 mm, then installed plastic windows and hung doors, thus completing the installation of the thermal external circuit. Since internal and external timber

the walls “shrink” differently; each room had its own ceiling, the beams of which were attached to the walls using metal “shoes” and powerful screws. To protect against natural influences, the outside walls of the house were treated with an antiseptic, and then decorative composition. The house remains in this state to this day. There are three more stages ahead.

Stage four - continuation of finishing.

At this stage, the installation of internal communications will be completed, the insulation and finishing of the floors will be completed, as well as the grinding and painting of the internal walls. At the same time, it is planned to insulate the basement floor in several layers, eliminating the appearance of cold bridges, such as beams. The ceiling of the second floor should be insulated like this. to achieve maximum sound insulation. Upon completion of the work, the house can be used as a holiday home.

Stage five - external insulation.

A sheathing supporting 100 mm thick insulation will be mounted on the walls. It will be covered with windproofing and wooden cladding.

Stage six - terraces.

Four terraces will be added to the house, and a pitched roof will be hidden inside the decking of the second floor terraces.

Warm corner connection

« Warm corner» - effective and reliable way connections, widely used in individual construction.

What is its essence? In one of the mating beams it is necessary to make a tenon of a certain size, while in the other beam, which will be mated with the first, a groove of similar dimensions is cut out. Then, when assembling the house, the beams are firmly and tightly connected. The length and thickness of the tenon can be from a quarter to a third of the width of the beam (but no more).

During assembly, inter-crown insulation (for example, flax jute) is inserted into the gap between the mating elements, which improves the tightness of the connection. In order to ensure ligation, the tenons and grooves in the rows of beams alternate.

This connection technology guarantees not only strength and thermal insulation, but also the aesthetics of a log house. Of course, the structure will shrink over time (up to 7% in height), and gaps may appear in the joints, so you need to be prepared for the fact that they will have to be caulked again.

Birch dowels

Wooden dowels have long been used to vertically fasten adjacent crowns of a frame made of timber or logs. These elements can have different configurations: triangular, round, square, but the most common are dowels round shape. For their production, only hardwoods are used: beech, oak, but most often birch - such dowels have an optimal price-quality ratio. They are round sticks with a diameter of 20-35 mm and a length of a little more than a meter, which are sawn on site into blanks of the required length (about one and a half diameters or the thickness of the crown of the log house).

During installation, the dowels are driven into pre-drilled (in place) holes in two crowns at once (their pitch is 1.5-2 m). The fastener must reliably connect both crowns, and it is necessary that the top of the dowel is recessed into the surface of the wood by 20-30 mm.

Cleaning of drains

From the house, wastewater flows into a non-volatile septic tank, which has a three-chamber design. Through the incoming pipe they enter the first section of the septic tank, where the initial separation into heavy and light components is carried out - the former gradually settle out, and fat, oil particles and organic matter float to the surface of the water. Further drains by internal system overflow pipes flow from one chamber to another, where first mechanical and then biological treatment occurs. The “water” treated in this way can be supplied to the irrigation field (an area under the surface of which there are drainage pipes laid at a certain pitch) or to an infiltrator. In this case, a drainage well is used as an infiltrator, from which the “water” that is finally purified during the settling process is gradually absorbed into the soil.

Step-by-step construction of a house from profiled timber

The foundation of the house is pile-grillage.
To install it in the ground, using a hole drill, holes were made with a depth of 3-3.5 m and a diameter of 300 mm (step 1.2-1.5 m), into which a reinforcement cage was placed. and then poured concrete grade M300 (a). Next, formwork was installed along the piles and reinforced grillage strips with a cross-section L00 x x 700 mm were cast (6), and at the same time the foundation for the fireplace stove (c)

The grillage was laid on the tapes roll waterproofing and an antiseptic larch board was laid on it, secured to the concrete with anchors (a). The basement space will be ventilated through the holes left in the concrete strips (6)

As an inter-crown sealant when assembling the walls of the house, pre-compressed sealing tapes (PSUL) were used, which were inserted into the extreme grooves of the “comb” of the timber (a, b). The latter was connected with “Warm Corner” notches, sealing the joints with flax-jute cloth (b). Vertically, the crowns were fastened together in pairs using dowels made from birch wood

Purlins with a section of 200 x 100 mm (a) were inserted into the grooves cut in the pediments, as well as into the internal walls repeating their shape, and then a rafter system was created from a board with a section of 250 x 50 mm (6 - d). They laid a moisture-proofing membrane on the rafters, pressed it with a counter-lattice (50 x 50 mm), and then nailed the lathing (100 x 30 mm)

To ensure that the structure of the house retains its strength during shrinkage, we left “bandages” made of solid timber: 2 pieces in doorways and high windows, 1 piece in low windows.
Above each room we assembled our own roof truss, attaching its beams to the upper crowns using special metal elements

On top of the sheathing slats (a), a continuous flooring was created from water-resistant OSB boards 9 mm thick, onto which a layer of waterproofing was first glued, and then soft bitumen shingles (6, c)

At the ends of the profiled timber extending into the openings, grooves were cut into which casing bars with a cross-section of 50 x 50 mm, wrapped in flax jute, were inserted. Casing boxes were attached to the bars, where windows and doors were installed (a, b). Shrinkage gaps filled with insulation were left above the openings (c)

The roof was insulated from the inside of the house. The insulation (a) laid between the rafters was covered with a vapor barrier and pressed with sheathing slats (6), to which the wooden sheathing was later attached.

Schemes for creating floors

Dry rooms on the first floor

Floor board 30 mm
Floor joists 100 x 50 mm. pitch 400 mm (laid perpendicular to the beams) / between the logs - mineral wool layer 50 mm
Floor beams 100 * 200 / between the beams mineral wool with a total thickness of 200 mm
Boards 100 x 20 with a pitch of 250 mm

Wet areas on the first floor

Ceramic tiles 20 mm
Waterproofing 10 mm
Cement reinforced screed with underfloor heating pipes 60 mm
Waterproofing
Moisture-resistant plywood 2 x 20 mm
Vapor barrier "Yutafol N Al 170"
Floor beams 100 x 200 / mineral wool 200 mm
Waterproofing "Yutavek 115"

Dry rooms on the second floor

Floorboard 22 mm
Moisture-resistant plywood 24 mm
Hydrowind protection "Izospan AM"
Insulation "Rufbutts 40 mm"
Boards 150 x 40 mm
Floor beams 200 * 100 mm / mineral wool 200 mm
Vapor barrier "Yutafol I 110"
Boards 100 x 20 mm with a pitch of 250 mm

Wet areas on the second floor

Ceramic tiles 15 mm
GVL screed with water heated floor pipes 60 mm
WaterproofingMoisture-resistant plywood 2 x 20 mm
Floor beams 200 x 100 mm / mineral wool 200 mm
Vapor barrier "Yutafol N 110"
Boards 100 x 20 with a pitch of 250 mm
Suspended plasterboard ceiling

Second floor terrace flooring

Variable section logs (transverse): at the wall - 150 (h) x 50 x 4000 mm, at the cornice - 50 (h) x 50 x 4000 mm
Terrace board
Logs of variable section (longitudinal) 150-50 (h) x 50 x 3600 mm
Gidrostekloizol (two layers)
Moisture-resistant plywood 20 mm

Scheme external insulation walls

Waterproofing membrane
Metal corner
Lathing made of boards 100 x 30 mm, pitch 610 mm
Casing box with window sill
Metal ebb
OSB board 20 mm
Mineral wool insulation 100 mm
Bar 50 x 50 mm
Larch plank 115 x 20 mm
Extruded polystyrene foam 50 mm
Brick tiles with glue (on a grid)

Cost of a house made of profiled timber - calculations

Name of works	Qty	Cost, rub.
FOUNDATION, WALLS, PARTITIONS, COLORS, ROOF
Foundation structure	set	400 000
Installation of the box at home	set	700 000
"Osyachka" door and window openings	set	200 000
Installation of windows and doors	set	58 000
Septic tank installation	set	120 000
Stove-fireplace design	set	140 000
Roof installation	set	270 000
Internal and external finishing	set	250 000
TOTAL BY SECTION		2 138 000
Materials used by section
Concrete grade M300	set	250 280
Fittings, boards, waterproofing, consumables	set	68 000
Profiled beam 145 x 195 mm	set	1 100 000
Beams for beams (100 * 200 mm) and rafters (50 x 250 mm)	set	250 000
Hand-molded brick	set	110 000
Mineral wool insulation (slabs 50 and 100 mm)	set	45 000
Lumber for sheathing. OSB boards	set	21 600
Windproof membrane and vapor barrier	set	20 000
Bituminous shingles, waterproofing	set	108 000
Roofing components, gutters	set	59 000
Glued laminated timber for the "plug" device	set	60 000
Windows and doors	set	490 000
TOTAL BY SECTION		2 581 880
TOTAL		4 719 880
* The calculation was made without taking into account overhead, transport and other expenses, as well as the company’s profit. Prices are given as of 02/10/2015.

House made of profiled timber - all photos and drawings for the article
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The decision to build a house from timber is not made immediately or suddenly. It’s just that this technology, with a simpler assembly of walls, allows you to obtain excellent characteristics for housing: for the Moscow region, timber 195 mm thick is sufficient. With such a thickness of the external walls it will be warm, but to save on heating it is better to insulate it (10 mm mineral wool on the outside) and make a reversible façade. Then there will also be savings on heating.

Plasticity in processing is one of the advantages of wood

Which wood to choose

Coniferous wood is usually used to build a house. There are several reasons. Firstly, the increased content of resins, which are natural preservatives and antiseptics. Thanks to their presence, wood does not deteriorate for a long time. Secondly, affordable price. You can, of course, build a house from beech or oak beams, but the price will be simply exorbitant. Thirdly, the wood is soft and easy to process.

Of all the coniferous species, a house is most often built from pine beams. With good characteristics, it is relatively inexpensive. Houses made of larch and cedar are rarely built: they are too expensive. Spruce is even rarer, but for a different reason: it deteriorates the fastest, and is also difficult to process. So, regarding the type of wood, there is, in fact, no choice. 95% of it is pine. But you need to understand the type of timber.

According to the processing method, timber can be:

Regular or solid, unplaned timber. Sawed from a single log, the cross-section is a quadrangle (square or rectangle).
Profiled timber. It is also sawn from a single log, but is then processed: tenons and grooves are formed with milling cutters - profiles with the help of which one beam is joined to another. The side edges are also processed. They come out of the machine already planed. Section - complex shape. The side edges can be smooth, rounded, figured - with chamfers, the shape of a “lock” - numerous beards and notches.
Glued timber. Outwardly similar to profiled, but assembled (glued) from several boards.

Let's look at the features of each type of timber regarding the construction of a house.

House made of ordinary timber

If earlier they said that they decided to build a house from timber, then they clearly understood the usual rectangular timber. There was simply no other one or it was too expensive: it was brought from abroad. Ordinary timber is the most affordable, if you take the cost per cubic meter. But, as a result of all the required measures, the cost of construction may be higher than from a profiled one. It's all about the characteristics of the material. They lead to significant additional costs even at the construction stage: when building a house from unplaned timber, inter-crown insulation is necessarily used. Its geometry is not ideal, and if this is not done, the blowing through the gaps between the crowns will be very strong. The second feature is that the surface of the walls turns out to be uneven and it is impossible to do without finishing the inside and outside.

In addition to laying the inter-crown layer, the delivered log house is caulked, additionally sealing the seams. You need not just one caulk, but at least two, sometimes more. And all because it is made from wood with natural moisture. In practice this has the following consequences:

Another feature of the house from ordinary timber: The walls turn out uneven. To give them a “decent” look, they are either sheathed finishing materials, or polished. But grinding is a controversial undertaking: the inter-crown seal makes it almost impossible. Even if you manage to sand the timber, where should you put the seams?

So it turns out that the cost of the house may be higher as a result: to the cost of the timber, add inter-crown insulation, material for caulking and the work itself (and it is not cheap), the cost of external and internal finishing. Please also note that they deliver moldings to your site - bars of the ordered length. The bowls are cut on site. This means that the qualifications of carpenters must be high. How warm the corners will be depends on how the cut is made. And in a log house, it is the corners that are the most problematic place.

Features of profiled timber

When examining profiled timber, the first thing that catches your eye is the almost ideal geometry and smooth surfaces. At least that's how it should be. At good quality execution, no finishing is needed: the wall immediately turns out even and smooth, even if it’s ready for painting.

The second, also quite obvious feature, is that due to the fact that the edges that join two profiled beams have recesses and protrusions (locks), there cannot be through gaps. Manufacturers of profiled timber say that you can lay walls without inter-crown insulation: it will be warm anyway. But few people listen to them. They put in at least thin insulation. Some use a thin backing under the laminate, others use self-expanding tape for installation plastic windows, as well as jute tape and similar materials.

In the photo, by the way, the most common profile among developers lately is the “comb”. It can have a “tooth” of different heights and widths, and everyone loves it because, in theory, it is impossible to “blow through” it. However, even here they play it safe by installing insulation.

Several typical timber profiles (the two on the far right in the picture are laminated timber, but the exact same profile is made from solid wood)

In general, there are a lot of profiles. Some of them are in the photo. When choosing a supplier, you need to pay attention not only to the shape of the locks, but also to how they are made. The match in any pair should be maximum.

Having decided to build a house from timber with a profile, you need to decide on its humidity. Profiled timber can be of natural humidity (cheaper), or it can be chamber-dried with a humidity of no more than 14-16%. The features of lumber with natural moisture have already been considered, now let’s talk about chamber drying. The enterprise installs large drying cabinets, into which the finished profiled timber is loaded. There, in the conditions elevated temperatures, it loses excess moisture. At the same time, all the processes that usually accompany drying wood occur in the chamber: it bursts, it twists. Accordingly, part is scrapped, and the rest is sold at a higher price. The reasons seem clear.

If you decide to build a house from kiln-dried timber, you can start finishing earlier. The log house should still stand, but it will take 9-12 months. At the same time, new cracks rarely form; existing ones only expand. But it is worth keeping in mind that due to the high costs of drying, most often they only reduce the humidity to operational - 16-18%, while chamber-drying wood is considered to be 8-12%.

In any case, the cracks will need to be sealed. Caulking is needed in very limited quantities: first of all, you will have to look at all the corners and notches, if any (this is what they call the places where the walls are attached). Even a well-made bowl can dry out unevenly, causing a gap to appear. The beam can also turn out, which will also lead to the appearance or expansion of a gap. So periodic revision of the angles is also required during operation. Wood is a living material and will change all the time. Also, after a year of sludge, you will have to repair too large cracks in the timber (without fanaticism, so that the tow does not open the crack).

The log house is assembled from numbered blanks with a molded bowl (numbers in blue at the ends)

The situation may be simpler with the assembly. If you just order lumber, you can cut corners from profiled timber, as from regular timber, on the site. But many enterprises, if they have a project, offer to take on part of the work themselves. Using a special program, they lay out the timber: they make a list of “spare parts” from which the house will be assembled. Then, according to this list, blanks are cut out, with molded bowls. The blanks are numbered and delivered ready-made to the site, where the house remains to be assembled like a construction set: folding the beams according to the numbers marked on the plan.

This is convenient, especially if you are going to build a house with your own hands without construction experience. It is clear that the service is not free, but you can save on paying carpenters: you do not need to assemble such a highly qualified designer. Only in this case, whether your house will be warm or not depends on how accurately the bowls are made in production. Sometimes there are companies that make very low-quality cuts. You can see several of these in the photo.

Poorly made bowls - the blowing will be incredible, and caulk will not help much

In general, it has its disadvantages and its advantages, but compared to ordinary timber, profiled timber is more convenient in construction, and in terms of price it may even be cheaper if you count the finishing.

Glued laminated timber

From the name it is clear that it consists of glued parts. First, the lamellas are cut out, treated with antiseptics, dried to a certain moisture content, and then glued together. Due to the complex manufacturing process, the price tag for this material is approximately 2.5-3 times higher than that of conventional material and 80-90% higher than that of profiled material.

What are its advantages? Properly made, it does not crack, it does not shrink: dry material cannot shrink, and glued beads should have a moisture content no higher than 12-15%. Therefore, the finishing process, with a beam width sufficient to compensate for heat loss, can only be reduced to painting or varnishing, since protective impregnation carried out at the enterprise (should, in any case).

What does laminated veneer lumber and its profiles look like?

Another consequence of the lack of shrinkage is that after just a few weeks, the folded frame can be immediately placed under the roof, and after another few weeks, finishing can begin. This time is necessary for the bowls to shrink, and the geometric dimensions of the laminated veneer lumber should not change. That is, there is a significant saving of time - everything, including finishing work, can be done in one season.

But are glued beads really that good? In terms of speed of construction, yes. But it has serious drawbacks. First: it is glued. This crosses out one of the main advantages of wood - environmental friendliness. Secondly, its vapor permeability is low. Many people build wooden houses precisely because of their ability to naturally regulate indoor humidity. Glued laminated timber lacks this due to the presence of layers of glue. Of all the advantages of wood, only its attractive appearance remains, but when finished with clapboard of the appropriate profile or a block house, it looks exactly the same. Therefore, the use of laminated veneer lumber to build a house is a very controversial issue.

Stages of building a house made of timber

A log house has several advantages:

The walls turn out to be light, which is why the load on the foundation is low, which means that the costs of its construction will be lower.
Wood is an elastic material and it compensates for small movements of the foundation without compromising the integrity of the building. And this, again, allows you to make shallow foundations on well-draining soils.

The choice of foundation type depends largely on the soil, but most often it is done if there is no need for a basement, you can put a columnar one (for small buildings of temporary residence - dachas, bathhouses, etc.) or without). It is advisable to base the choice on the results of geological research. The process is described in more detail.

While the foundation is “setting,” the wood is prepared. All timber and dowels are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. Use compounds that do not form a film on the surface of the log. They will not interfere with the drying process. After preparing the timber, the actual construction of the house begins:

Cut-off waterproofing. To prevent the wood from the foundation from drawing moisture, it is necessary to lay a layer of hydrophobic material. Previously, two layers of roofing material were laid under the first crown. Today there are more modern materials- coating and roll. You can use them, and in combination: coat them, stick them on a roll.
Laying the trim crown. The timber is selected without signs of blue, with a minimum number of knots. Preferably - from the middle part of the tree - with a maximum density of annual rings. It is additionally treated with impregnations intended for wood in direct contact with the ground. In order to ensure better preservation of the first crown, there is a trick: lay it on the waterproofing wide board, impregnated with bitumen mastic with waste. Another layer of waterproofing is placed on it, and the first crown is placed on top. All these layers are connected to the foundation with studs that are embedded in the foundation.
Rough floor. The floor logs are attached to the first crown - a beam with a section of 150 * 100 mm. They are laid in increments of at least 70 cm. To make it more convenient to work, subfloor boards are laid out along the joists without nailing them.
Assembling walls from timber. If a wall kit with ready-made bowls is not ordered, they are “slaughtered.” Cut out according to the template. A template is drawn from a piece of plywood, traced, and then cut out. A chainsaw is used more often, but a fairly high degree of proficiency with the tool is required: how warm the house will be depends on the accuracy of the cut. The shapes of the timber connection are shown in the picture.

We have already talked about laying inter-crown insulation: when using regular timber it is required, for profiled timber it is advisable in bowls, the rest is optional. The crowns are connected to each other by dowels - long round bars carved from a single piece of wood, dowels - rectangular shape or studs - metal rods. In any case, a hole is drilled under the connection into which the connecting element is driven.

The order of work depends on the type of roof chosen. When installing a simple installation, rafter legs are installed, but the order is different. A windproof membrane is rolled out and secured onto the assembled rafter system. In this form, the house is left to dry out for a long period of time.
Door and window openings. To speed up drying and shrinkage, you can cut out window and door openings, install a frame or fixing strips. Door and window blocks are not installed until the main shrinkage is complete.

After a year or two, you can begin finishing work. All the time while the log house is settling, it is necessary to monitor the processes occurring in the wood. It is necessary to immediately inspect the corners and, if necessary, caulk them. Then monitor the condition of them, as well as the beam connections. If the dowels are driven in with great force, during drying the timber may hang on them, causing cracks to form. The problem can be solved by hanging around: take a huge wooden hammer and knock on the walls, causing faster shrinkage. The same technique is used if the house is settling too slowly.

The video shows the main stages of how to build a house from timber. Despite lyrical digressions, a lot of valuable information.

How to build a house from timber: photo report

They built such a house.

We ordered a wall kit for the project, and a strip foundation was poured under it.

They brought blanks with sawed-off bowls. They were carefully unloaded, while inspecting them for any defects. One beam turned out to be problematic - it was in the middle of the bundle and suffocated - it became covered with fungus. It was postponed for a separate “treatment”. The rest were covered with impregnation (Valti Pohusta) and stacked.

To avoid problems with fungus, a spacer is laid under each - boards lying across.

Rolls of insulation and dowels were also purchased. The Nagels were sent to bathe in the impregnation. They poured impregnation into the old bathtub and left them for half a day, then took them out and dried them.

The first crown - a half-beam - was laid on top of the waterproofing laid on the foundation. It has no grooves at the bottom.

It was pulled to the foundation with anchors to studs poured into concrete.

The first crown was laid. The one that was previously fixed on the foundation is often called “zero”.

Let's measure the diagonals. In order for the cups to stack without problems and to avoid distortion, they must be equal. The permissible distortion is a couple of millimeters.

Having aligned the diagonals, we drill holes for the dowels. To prevent holes larger/smaller than the required length, a wood stop was placed on the drill.

The walls are gradually growing. We fasten them in a checkerboard pattern with dowels.

In general, the timber is more or less normal, but there are problems with incorrectly sawed cups. When we lay the timber, we get a huge gap. The only way to combat this is to manually adjust the cups so that everything lies evenly.

It takes a long time to eliminate these inconsistencies, but gradually all the walls are laid out.

Walls made of profiled timber were removed

Let's start assembling rafter system. First, as is customary, the two outer trusses are installed, then everything else, according to the project.

The finished sheathing was sheathed with roofing felt. So let's leave the house to dry.

Inside we lay out the subfloor boards, nailing every fifth one. They will dry along with the house.

Video on the topic

Mistakes that are made when building houses from profiled timber are described and discussed in detail in this video. Very helpful. Look.

Technology for assembling a log frame for a house or bathhouse

Organization of a workplace for assembling walls

To ensure the work progresses, the beams are laid out in a stack at a distance of 5-6 meters from the building on one or, better yet, both sides. Each layer of beams in a stack is placed on spacers made of boards.

Next to the stack will be equipped workplace for marking and cutting beams. A variant of such a workplace is shown in the figure.

It is convenient to mark the timber using a template at a height of 0.9 - 1.1 meters in the marking area, node A in the figure. After marking, the timber is lowered onto low pads into the cutting area. In this position, it is convenient and safe to saw the timber chain saw.

The cut timber is lifted onto the wall. To facilitate the ascent, slopes are arranged - inclined beams, whose upper end rests on the upper crown of the log house. The timber is moved along the slopes using a rope.

Wedge-shaped stops are nailed to the slopes, which make lifting the beam safer. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to get by with little force. Even one person can, if necessary, lift the beam, fixing it with stops at intermediate points.

It is most convenient to carry out work on assembling a log frame from timber with a team of four people. You can work together, but the work will just go slower.

Scaffolding is constructed to install the upper rims of the log house and the roof.

Three-tier scaffolding on the gable of the house. 1 — extreme racks; 2 - L-shaped scaffolding stand of the first tier on the side facade; 3 - flooring; 4 — central racks; 5 — cruciform braces (shown conditionally); 6 - bosses

The assembly of the upper crowns of the log house is carried out from the level of the first tier. The flooring of the first tier is laid on L-shaped racks, pos. 2 in the picture. The racks are installed around the walls of the house and attached to the walls using bosses, pos. 6.

At the stage of constructing the roof (attic), on the facades where the installation of pediments is necessary, scaffolding has to be made in three tiers. To construct scaffolding racks, boards 50 x 150 are used. mm. Flooring is made from the same boards.

Working from scaffolding is more convenient, faster and safer than from ladders - don’t forget about this.

Marking beams for wall assembly

Practical construction experience shows that it is not realistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints.

Before starting work, draw a diagram of the assembly of the walls of the house, which indicates: the serial number of the crown, the type connecting element at the ends of the workpieces, the position of the openings in the wall.

An example of a house wall assembly diagram is shown in the figure:

Scheme for marking corner joints of timber and joints of parts of longitudinal walls, for a house with overall dimensions 6x9 meters. A And WITH- longitudinal walls; D And B- transverse walls; E- internal wall made of timber - partition; 1 - joints of beams.

For the house shown in the diagram, each crown consists of 7 pieces of beams ranging in length from 3 to 6 m.

The crown of the longitudinal wall consists of two parts: the main beam of a standard length of 6 meters and an extension of 3 meters. On one crown, long beams are laid on the left, and extensions on the right. On the next crown, installation begins in a similar order, but on the right.

The parts of the crown of the transverse wall and the partition are made from one beam of a standard length of 6 meters.

To eliminate cold bridges in external walls, the joints of the beams of the longitudinal wall, item 1, are made by making vertical cuts “into the floor of the tree” with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The timber in the corners of the crowns is connected into a dressing with a root tenon (see below for more details).

How to correctly and quickly mark tenons, grooves and other profiles, ensure identical dimensions of lumber blanks?

The easiest way to do this is using templates. The template is placed on the beam and the outline of the template profiles is transferred to the surface of the beam with a marker.

It’s more convenient, faster to mark and it will be less mistakes, if the template completely follows the contour of the part and has the same length as the part being marked. I placed the template on the timber and immediately transferred all the dimensions and profiles to the workpiece.

For our example, we will need to make seven templates, corresponding to the number of parts in the crown. One template is used to mark two mirrored wall parts.

If you think about it, the number of templates can be reduced. Let's look at how to make universal templates for marking parts of the longitudinal walls of a house (see above for the wall assembly diagram).

Two templates (highlighted brightly) yellow) for marking the beams of longitudinal walls. 4 — groove for the main tenon; 5 - groove for tenon interior wall; 6 - sample; 7 - finishing beam.

The picture above shows the template for marking the main beam in the crown, in which the extension is located on the right. On the wall marking diagram, these are crowns A1, A3, A5 and C1, C3, C5.

Bottom template serves for marking the main beam in the crowns with extension on the left - A2, A4, A6 and C2, C4, C6.

The templates are the same at first glance, but differ in that the grooves, item 5, for connecting to the partition, are located in different places in the templates.

The same templates are used to mark the parts of the extensions. To do this, on the templates at points b And With drilled through holes, and at points A And d cuts are made.

To mark the extension, the template is placed on the beam and points are made on the surface of the workpiece through holes and cuts.

Remember this technique when making holes in the template. This will help you create universal templates in many other cases.

The templates are made from planed inch boards.

As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from seven to three (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse walls). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to prepare parts for transverse walls and partitions.

Now let's look at how templates are used. To mark the first beam of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is laid on the beam and the end of the template on the left is outlined with a marker, then two grooves and, finally, a recess for the connection “into the floor of the tree”. The marked timber is transferred to the cutting site, where unnecessary fragments (it is better to mark them out)
hatch) are cut with a chain saw.

How to mark parts with spikes? Obviously, the tenon and groove are elements of the same unit, which means they must match each other in size and location. In a part with a tenon, a tenon is marked in place of the groove.

If the groove dimensions are 5×5 cm, then the spike should have dimensions - 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The gap is filled with inter-crown insulation.

The template profile is transferred to the upper edge of the beam. The markings are transferred to the vertical edge of the beam using a square. Accurate cuts are made using these markings.

How to assemble smooth walls from timber of different widths

The technical conditions (TS) for the manufacture of timber allow deviations in the size of the timber in one direction or another from the standard value specified in the documents.

If the purchase documents indicate standard sizes timber, for example, section 150x150 mm. and length is 6 meters, then the actual dimensions will differ from the standard.

Each beam in a batch of timber brought to the construction site will differ from the dimensions indicated in the documents by several millimeters. The cross-sectional dimensions and length of the bars will be different.

The variation in sizes must be taken into account when developing templates, marking timber and assembling walls.

How to assemble smooth walls if the beams are different in width and length?

b— minimum beam width; delta b- the difference between a narrow and wide beam.

Obviously, using timber of different widths, you can make only one surface of the wall flat - either from the outside or from the inside of the building.

If they want to make the outside wall of the house smooth, then All beams in the wall are aligned along the outer edge. Then, inside the house, wide beams will protrude from the wall by the amount of “delta b"(the difference between narrow and wide bars). Alignment along the outer edge leads to an increase in gaps in the corner joint of the beams (see figure).

If the beams in the wall are aligned along the inner edge, then the “steps” from the protruding beams will already be on the outer surface of the wall. The outside of the wall is usually sheathed. And if you chamfer the outer edges of the timber, then the steps on the wall will be invisible even without cladding. The corner joints of the beams are more dense and “warm”.

How and with what to connect the crowns of a log house

Each crown of the log house is connected to the lower crown with metal or wooden dowels. The dowels are placed at a distance of approximately 250-300 mm from the end of the beam and then every 1-1.5 meters of the length of the beam.

Each detail of the crown is secured with at least two dowels. The length of the dowel must be at least 1.5 times greater than the height of the beam.

cm., pos. 1.

Round steel dowels with a diameter of 6-8 mm.- pins with a pointed end or nails (6x200-250 mm), simply hammer into the beams of the crowns, option a on the image.

The upper ends of dowels made of any material must be buried into the timber by 2-4 cm. If this is not done, then when the timber dries and the log house shrinks, the dowels will be higher than the timber and will lift the upper crown. A large gap forms between the crowns.

For the same reason Driven pins cannot be made from reinforcing steel. The corrugated surface of such dowels will keep the crown beams from moving when the log house shrinks, even if the dowel is buried into the timber. The crowns will simply hang on such dowels.

Small-diameter steel hammer-in dowels cannot always provide the necessary wall rigidity, especially with long wall spans. Their use can be recommended for small buildings - for example, baths. To increase the rigidity of the walls of large buildings, it is necessary to install dowels of increased diameter.

Steel dowels with a diameter of 10 millimeters or more, as well as wooden dowels, are inserted into pre-drilled holes in the timber. The diameter of the holes is made slightly smaller than the diameter of the dowel.

When the dowel fits tightly into the hole, the rigidity of the wall increases, but the risk that the dowels will interfere with the shrinkage of the frame increases.

Wooden dowels with a diameter of 25-30 mm Convenient to cut from round cuttings for tools. Such cuttings are made from hardwood. It is recommended to chamfer the lower end of the dowel - it will be easier to drive the dowel into the hole.

You can cut 25x25 square dowels from a regular “inch” board mm. One end of the workpiece is chamfered. Such pins are driven into a hole made with a drill with a diameter of 24 mm.

The ribs of such a dowel, made of relatively “soft” coniferous wood, become crushed when hammered in, the wood becomes compacted, ensuring a fairly tight fit of the dowel in the hole.

How to properly drill holes in timber for dowels

The depth of the holes in the wall for installing dowels must exceed at least 4 cm. dowel length. Moreover, the hole must be free of chips.

To drill holes in timber that are deep enough and have a large diameter, a low-speed electric drill (drill) is usually used. The passport of a power tool usually indicates what diameter of drilling in a particular material the drill is designed for. Considering the large drilling depth, it is better to choose a drill with a power reserve.

To drill holes in timber, it is convenient to equip the drill with a stop, as shown in the figure.

The stop block is attached to the drill with steel clamps.

The stop, in the form of a wooden block, is attached to the drill, for example, with clamps. The stop stops drilling at the required depth, but the rotation of the drill does not stop after that. Continuing to rotate in one place, the drill clears the hole from chips, grinds in and then easily comes out of the deep hole.

It is convenient to drill holes for connecting the crowns in a beam that is already installed on the wall in the design position on the inter-crown insulation. But here it's usual A problem arises - the crown gasket cannot be drilled. The fibers of the spacer material simply wrap around the drill bit and clamp it.

You have to install the beam on the wall in two steps. First, the timber is mounted without a gasket and temporarily secured from displacement, for example, with nails. Drill holes for dowels. Then the timber is moved from the wall and inter-crown insulation is laid.

At drilling sites the gasket is cut out sharp knife . Then, the removed beam is put back in place, this time on the gasket, and secured with dowels.

Drilling holes in timber laid on a wall should be done while standing on a solid foundation - scaffolding, scaffolding, flooring. Standing on a narrow wall and drilling is dangerous. The drill can “bite”, a powerful drill will turn around and easily throw the worker off the wall.

How to make a straight wall from crooked timber

Some of the timber delivered to the construction site may be bent. The beam can have a curvature in one plane, or it can be twisted with a screw and become diamond-shaped in cross-section.

If possible, it is better not to use curved beams for the walls of a house or bathhouse. It is recommended to cut beams with curvature into smaller pieces and use them in other, less critical places.

A small amount of timber that has curvature in one plane can be used to mount walls. You should not lay such a beam into a wall with its convexity up or down, in the hope that it will straighten under the weight of the house - the beam will not straighten, even if it is placed in the lower crowns.

The curved beam is laid in the wall, straightening it in a horizontal plane as shown in the figure.

The crooked beam is straightened sequentially by fixing it with dowels

The curved beam is drilled, aligning it with the straight beam at the drilling points. After laying the inter-crown insulation, the curved beam is fixed with dowels at one end and, when unbent, is sequentially fixed with dowels at other points.

Unbending the beam does not require much effort. A lever and bracket will help make work easier

Inter-crown gasket - insulation, sealant

For cold protection, a gasket is placed between the crowns. Previously, moss or flax tow. Currently, special cushioning materials based on flax wool or flax jute are available for sale. The material is sold in the form of a roll of tape with a width of 20 cm.

A strip of cushioning material is laid along the entire upper edge of the beam in two or three layers and secured with staples using a construction stapler.

If the wall is not sheathed, then the gasket should be 1-2 inches from the outer edge of the beam. cm., otherwise it will get wet.

Some craftsmen lay the cushioning material in one layer and suggest caulking the joints after the frame shrinks, adding additional material to the voids of the joints. In this option we have less consumption of cushioning material.

The work of caulking joints is quite labor-intensive and tedious. It is better to immediately lay a thicker sealant, in several layers (three layers), to eliminate the need to caulk horizontal joints.

How to control the correct assembly of a log house

During the construction of a house or bathhouse, it is necessary to regularly check the correct assembly of the log frame. To do this, it is enough to control the following five parameters:

Verticality of corners.
The height of corners and walls.
Horizontality of the crowns and upper edges of the timber.
Straightness of walls.
The quality of installation of inter-crown insulation.

For control of vertical angles The following method is used.

To control the verticality of the angle, a vertical line is applied on each side of the crown. 1 - lower trim; 2 - crowns; 3 — control lines; 4 - base.

On each side of the crown, a vertical line is drawn at the same distance from the corner edge.

At correct installation For crowns, this line should be straight and coincide with the vertical. The verticality of the line is checked with a plumb line.

If deviations are found, the work is suspended and the cause is eliminated.

The height of corners and walls is measured roulette. The measurement is taken from the base horizontal line, which is applied to the strapping beam using a water level.

Horizontality of crowns and top faces timber is checked by level.

Straightness of walls determined visually by pulling a cord along the wall.

The verticality and height of the corners should be especially carefully and constantly checked. Deviations from verticality are eliminated, up to the replacement of the timber in the crown. The height of the corners is adjusted by increasing the thickness of the gasket between the rims in the sagging corners. Sometimes it helps if you tap a sledgehammer on a beam in a high corner.

The quality and thickness of the installation of inter-crown insulation is checked visually by inspecting the walls.

Window and door openings in a log house

From the second crown they begin to form doorways. The distance from the floor level to the window is chosen in the range of 70 - 90 cm.

Laying timber in crowns in the area of openings has its own characteristics.

A - layout of openings in the wall, where: 1 - wall; 2 - door opening; 3 - pier; 4 - window opening. V — diagram of timber cutting, where c is the remainder of the cutting. G - option for constructing an opening in a log house with the installation of temporary fastening bars, item 7. d - option with installation of decks in the opening, item 6 - we immediately get an opening ready for installing a door or window.

In practice, two options are used for forming openings when assembling a log house.

One option is " G" on the image. The opening is made in rough form; only preparations are made to create the opening. The opening is not prepared for the installation of doors and windows immediately when assembling the log house. This work is left for later - usually done after the frame has shrunk.

This option allows you to speed up the assembly work of the log house. Beams must be installed in the opening to fasten the partition to the log house, item 7 in the figure. At least two such beams are installed in the doorway.

During the shrinkage of the log house, the piers can “lead” inward or outward. To prevent this, timber in the walls is fastened with vertically installed boards.

In another version - " d"in the figure, the openings are immediately prepared for the installation of doors and windows. To do this, install decks (windows) in the openings - a vertical beam with a groove, item 6 in the figure. The tenon of the wall beam fits into the groove. In this way, the partition beam is fixed from displacement. In this option, the openings are immediately ready for the installation of doors and windows.

Decks (windows) traditionally serve not only to connect timber in the opening, but also serve as window slopes, window sills. To do this, they are carefully processed and chamfered.

Option for installing a window in a wall made of timber: 1 - finishing the window slopes; 2 - a vertical frame board with a tenon strip, fits into the groove of the wall beam; 3 — plastic window frame; 4 — PSUL sealing tape

IN modern conditions, when installing plastic windows and installing plastic slopes and window sills, you don’t have to make a deck (jamb). The beams in the opening are fastened like this. At the ends of the beams along the entire length of the opening, a vertical groove is cut out and a rail is inserted there, which secures the pier beams from displacement.

The length of the deck (plug) or slats should be less than the height of the opening by 5-7 cm so as not to interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.

Timber for home, bathhouse in your city

How to properly install windows in a timber wall

If the opening in the wall was made in draft form (see above), then the installation of the window begins with cutting out the opening under right size. To do this, a lath is filled along the edge of the cut, item 2 in the figure, and the beams are sawed off along the edge of the lath with a chain saw.

Correct installation windows in the wall made of timber. 1 - wall; 2 - rail; 3 - platband; 4 - window; 5 - window box; 6 - wall beam above the window; 7 — interventional insulation; 8 — shrinkage gap above the window and deck; 9 — window frames; 10 - wall beam (pier); 11 - deck; 12 - nail.

Then, using a circular saw, tenons are cut out at the ends of the wall beams (wall). The deck, pos. 11, is placed on the tenons, pos. 10, with a groove. The joints are sealed with insulation. The deck is nailed to the wall beam with nails driven in at an angle, pos. 12. This way the nails will not interfere with the shrinkage of the frame.

A window frame is inserted into the opening prepared in this way, which is attached to the deck with self-tapping screws. Above window frame be sure to leave a gap, pos. 8, to compensate for the shrinkage of the log house. Gap size 5-7 cm. The gap is filled with soft insulating material.

An expansion gap must also be left above the upper end of the deck.

Openings are prepared in the same way and doors are inserted into the walls made of timber.

After completing the assembly of the first floor of the house, the log house is covered with beams of interfloor or attic (if the building is one-story) floor.

Can be structural element. And they can also perform an independent function.

The next page describes the structure of a broken roof of a house made of timber, where the floor beams at the same time serve as an element power frame mansard roof.

Watch the video clip, which describes and shows in some detail the technology for installing a log house from construction timber.

One of the most popular services in the construction market today is the assembly of a log house. This technology is used to build not only private houses, but also bathhouses, as well as utility buildings. They turn out warm and attractive to look at.

If you want to make the walls warmer, you can install a ventilated facade. But some people prefer to leave the walls in their original form. So they look very beautiful and correspond to old Russian traditions. If you have the appropriate skills, you can assemble a house from profiled timber with your own hands. However, first you need to familiarize yourself with the technology.

Main stages

When assembling a house, you need to remember about its shrinkage. This rule is especially relevant if the construction is carried out using the technology of installing natural humidity units. Shrinkage will be approximately 15 cm if a material of natural moisture is used. The dried log shrinks by about 9 cm.

The assembly is divided into several stages. At first, a project is drawn up, then the foundation is built. The main stage is the assembly of the log house. Final works manipulations on the construction of the roof become. After shrinkage, external and interior work.

The most important first crown

The technology for assembling a house from profiled timber involves paying special attention to the first crown. It represents one of the vulnerable points. This node will form the outline of the house. It is located closer to the surface of the earth and is in contact with the foundation, which draws water from the ground into the water.

The first crown is shielded; this work involves separating it from the foundation with a layer of waterproofing. It is usually roofing material laid on a layer of bitumen mastic. There is a 100 mm lining beam on top, this is exactly its thickness. As for the width, it should not be less than the corresponding value of the profiled beam. The latter will become an intermediate link between the foundation and wall material.

The backing beam must be made of larch, which is characterized by high resistance to rotting. In this case, the material must be treated with an antiseptic. When the kit for assembling a house from profiled timber is delivered to the building site, you can begin work. After constructing the foundation and laying the first crown, you can begin installation lower crown, which is a beam with one profiled side. The horizontal plane must be coated with an antiseptic, and after the mixture has dried, a layer of jute sealant is placed on top. Its thickness should be 5 mm.

The floor beams must be embedded into the first crown. But it is better to lay them in such a way that they rest on the foundation grillage. If the lower crown rots, there will be fewer problems with replacing it. It is better to make the first two crowns from larch.

The need to process timber

Work on assembling houses from profiled timber is necessarily accompanied by treating the material with antiseptics. At the same time, you must take into account that after construction you will only have the opportunity to process accessible sections of the walls.

Before laying the profiled timber, it is necessary to protect the remaining surfaces. This must be done before assembling the house. Antiseptic compounds can be “Senezh” and “Tikurilla”.

Carrying out insulation

After studying the instructions for assembling a house from profiled timber, you will learn that compaction is a mandatory step. Ideally, it is better to use jute, which is laid in corner joints - the most vulnerable places. Some types of Finnish-style profiles involve laying jute tape along the beam, in its central part. The main function of the jute seal is to reduce the air flow through the walls. To achieve the result, a layer of 5 mm will be enough.

Using dowels as a connection

Self-assembly of a house from profiled timber requires the use of dowels. They are spikes and pins for fastening structural elements. The products are oblong in shape and have a round or square section. The basis may be:

plastic;
metal;
wood.

If the walls are assembled from profiled timber, then wooden dowels are better than others. This fastening is used when the moisture content of the timber is more than 20%. This is done so that when the material dries, it does not deform and cracks do not form between the rims. The dowel will work on bending and will not allow the beam to bend.

If you decide to use dowels as fasteners, you can use some tips that will simplify the work. No more than two beams should be connected to each other. The pins are arranged in a checkerboard pattern. The step between them should not be more than 1,500 mm.

The dowels should have approximately the same moisture content as the timber. Holes for installing fasteners are drilled vertically at 1.5 beams. The diameter of the holes can be 1 mm larger than the diameter of the fasteners. It is better if this parameter is the same. The dowel is hammered in with a mallet and sunk into the timber. When assembling a house from profiled timber, you should choose dowels whose length will be 30 mm less than the length of the hole. This requirement is due to shrinkage compensation.

Assembly nuances: instructions for work

By purchasing a ready-made home assembly kit, you can install it yourself. Each link will be in its place, and glass slots will be made in the products. The work must be carried out according to the principle of assembling a classic log structure. Each link is marked, and during installation you must follow the diagram.

During the process, you must take into account the grooves and tenons of each piece. When laying, each edge must coincide with the profile. If the grooves and tenons are not very complex, then sealing material is laid between the links. This increases the thermal insulation characteristics of the walls.

When assembling a house from profiled timber, it is important to ensure that the links are tightly connected to each other. If this rule is not followed, the walls will rot. If there are products with tongues and grooves in the form of a comb, there is no need to lay insulation. The beams will have bowl cuts that connect the links to each other into an even masonry. If there are no bowls, you can cut them out using a mobile bowl cutter.

Completion of construction

After shrinkage, you can begin roughing and finishing, as well as the construction of the roof. At the same stage, they install entrance doors and windows. The subfloor is being installed. If the walls have a thickness of 195 mm or more, then additional insulation and they do not need cladding. They will retain heat perfectly.

Whereas protective impregnation must be applied. This will keep the wood in excellent condition. long years. If you wish, you can purchase a composition that will perform two functions at once - protective and decorative. With this mixture you can emphasize the structure of the wood and give it a rich shade.

Features of insulation

After assembling a house from profiled timber, you can also insulate it. This process usually involves:

tow;
glass wool boards;
mineral wool;
linen jute fabric.

Glass wool is laid with a foil vapor barrier layer. This will help reflect heat indoors. The presence of vapor insulation will reduce the evaporation of moisture, which steals heat.

It is better not to use polystyrene foam as thermal insulation, as it will prevent the evaporation of moisture from the wood, which will ultimately cause it to rot. For the same reasons, you should not insulate walls with roofing felt, as well as glassine, or plastic film. It is better to use a vapor-permeable membrane material.

Finally

Assembling a house from profiled timber can be a fairly simple task if you order a ready-made kit. In it, all elements of the system are numbered. You will have to install the walls, guided by the Lego principle. If you want to achieve additional thermal insulation, the surface of the walls from the inside can also be finished. For this, plasterboard, hardboard or lining is usually used.

When installing a roof for such housing, it is better to use corrugated sheeting or ondulin. Metal tiles are excellent. Insulation in this case begins from the attic floor. Then the craftsmen move on to the roofing.

Profiled timber has deservedly become one of the most popular materials for the construction of low-rise buildings. wooden buildings. But this does not eliminate the shortcomings inherent in all other solid wood building materials. That is why, when using profiled timber, you must strictly follow the technology for laying it. In this article we will try to reveal as fully as possible the issues that may arise when assembling a house from profiled timber.

Sequence of laying profiled timber

We will assume that the foundation for the house has already been built and has managed to gain the necessary strength. Considering the relatively small mass of profiled timber and a house built from it, it is advisable to choose economical options base: shallow belt or bored foundation.

The first crown is the most important

One of the most vulnerable places in a wooden house is the first, lowest crown (one row of beams forming the outline of the house). The reason is simple: it is closest to the surface of the earth. Moreover, it is in direct contact with the foundation, which “pulls” water well. Therefore, first you need to shield the first crown from the foundation with a layer of waterproofing. This can be a layer of bitumen mastic applied to the base, two layers of roofing felt, etc. A backing beam with a thickness of 100 mm and a width not less than the width of the profiled beam is laid on the waterproofing - another intermediate link between the wall material and the foundation. It is best if the lining beam is made of larch, which has good resistance to rotting. But even in this case, the material will have to be treated with antiseptic drugs. The construction of a house made of profiled timber has begun.

Next, the lower crown is laid, which is a beam with one (upper) profiled side. All horizontal planes are treated with an antiseptic; after the composition has dried, a layer of jute sealant (5 mm thick) is laid on them. Floor beams can crash into the first crown, but it is better if they rest on the foundation grillage: if the lower crown rots, there will be fewer problems with replacing it. It is preferable if the first 2 crowns are made of larch.

About treating timber with antiseptics

Considering that after assembling the house you will have the opportunity to process only accessible parts of the walls, protection of all other surfaces must be carried out before laying the profiled timber. It is advisable to do this before actually assembling the house. Tikkuril, Senezh, etc. can be used as antiseptic compounds.

Sealing for insulation

Ideally, the use of jute is necessary only for the corner connections of profiled timber - the most vulnerable places in the house. But some types of profiles, for example, Finnish, initially involve laying a jute tape along the entire beam in its middle part. The main purpose of the jute seal is to reduce the ventilation of the walls. Usually a layer of 5 mm is sufficient.

Connection using dowels

Dowel is a pin or tenon used for fastening elements of a wooden structure. It is an oblong fastener with square or round. It can be wooden (when assembling a house from profiled timber, it is better to use this kind), metal or plastic. Fastening with dowels is used in cases where the moisture content of the timber exceeds 20%. This is done so that when it dries, the beam does not twist, and cracks do not form between the crowns - the dowel works to bend and prevents the beam from bending.

Only two beams are connected to each other - no more;
dowels are alternated in a checkerboard pattern, the distance between them should not exceed 1500 mm (see diagram below);
the dowels should have approximately the same moisture content as the timber;
from the previous paragraph it is obvious that it is better if these are wooden products;
holes for them are drilled vertically, 1.5 beams;
The diameter of the holes can exceed the diameter of the fastener by a maximum of 1 mm. It is better if it is the same (the dowel is driven with a wooden mallet and recessed into the beam);
the length of the dowels should be 20-30 mm less than the length of the hole (shrinkage compensation)

And remember, according to the technology of laying profiled timber, you cannot use nails!

Preparing for the shrinkage period

Door and window openings are either cut out in the walls or are provided in advance (house kit). Window blocks are installed at the required level, and the door ones are installed on the first crown. The blocks are fastened along the entire end of the opening; a gap of at least 50 mm is left above the frame, which compensates for subsequent shrinkage of the house.

If it so happens that profiled timber with natural moisture was used, then after the construction of the log house, a temporary roof is erected to protect it from precipitation. The building is left alone for a period of 6 to 12 months - until the timber dries and the house shrinks. Only after this can you begin finishing work.

About shrinkage of a house made of profiled timber

On the Internet you can find information that profiled timber, for example, with natural humidity is characterized by 4, 5, 6% shrinkage. But in order to be prepared for a real change in the geometric dimensions of the timber, it is worth familiarizing yourself with GOST 6782.1-75 “Lumber from softwood. The amount of shrinkage." We will leave the information presented there without comment. We only note that the amount of shrinkage directly depends on the difference between the values of the initial and final moisture content of the profiled timber.

You've probably heard more than once that the best time to assemble a house from profiled timber with natural humidity is winter. And the point is not so much that winter wood is somehow special: before the summer, the log house will be able to partially dry out in milder conditions than if the construction took place in the hot season. Uniform drying is the main antidote to severe deformations in the timber.

A few words about projects, etc.

If you ordered a designer house made according to a project, then the latter should contain a section with design documentation, which indicates the sequence of all work on assembling a house from profiled timber. All you have to do is call a couple of friends for help and you can assemble the log house yourself. And we can only wish good luck to those guys who ordered the building materials by molding: it’s not worth saving your nerves like that!