Any capital construction requires considerable financial and time resources, so every car enthusiast has the temptation not to build a brick or block garage, but to get by with the construction of a light makeshift made of thin sheet metal, for example, to build a light garage from corrugated board with his own hands. Using a metal sheet and modern insulation, you can make a good shelter for your own transport. Not a bad idea, but it has one major flaw.
The right approach, make a garage out of corrugated board with your own hands
You cannot invest in temporary structures, this is wasted or wasted money. Any structure, even from a sheet of corrugated board, must be built as if it was destined to stand for 20 years. A fully built garage, even made of light corrugated board on a steel pipe frame, will not lose its qualities in two decades and can be used for its intended purpose.
Therefore, when designing a garage for a car, be sure to include the following elements in the structure of the building:
- The presence of a foundation, tape or slab, does not matter, the main thing is that the foundation is capable of supporting the weight of the car and the entire garage even in the most unfavorable conditions;
- Metal welded frame made of steel pipe or square. This is the most expensive line in the estimate for a garage made of corrugated board. Using the welded version will require the services of a professional welder, but it will be worth it. Leave the use of thin-sheet galvanized profiles for wall cladding;
- The roof of the garage should be gable with a ceiling lining with insulating material. The use of a pitched roof structure allows you to get an additional air cushion over your head and high quality ventilation in the garage, which is important to combat condensation and heat loss.
Advice! It is better to choose a lifting type entrance gate. This type of gate is more difficult to install and maintain, so use the services of professionals. Do not try to solve the problem of how to make a sliding gate on your own, so that you do not have to cut out locks and awnings along with the elements of the garage.
The best choice for the first construction experience would be a corrugated frame garage for one car. The scheme and drawing of the shelter made of corrugated board for one car are shown in a draft version. Most of the work on the construction of a garage is quite capable of doing it yourself. It is clear that the above structure is not a dogma, this project is the minimum of what you can do with your own hands. If you want to make the layout of the garage from corrugated board with your own hands, the drawings can be done differently by adding, for example, a window or a wicket.
We build a garage from sheets of corrugated board with our own hands
To build a garage, you will need a flat area, preferably away from slopes and ravines. The frame version of the garage with corrugated sheathing weighs no more than 350 kg, the ground pressure with a foundation size of 5x7 m with a tape width of 20 cm will be scanty, therefore such a structure can be installed almost close to any main wall of a residential building.
Garage materials
For the frame, we use a rolled steel profile with a square section of 4x4 cm, with a wall thickness of 2 mm. You will need at least 60 m of workpiece for the frame. Sheathing with self-tapping screws and corrugated board is more convenient with the maximum wall thickness of the frame rack. For the standard strength of the frame, a metal body of 2 - 2.5 mm is sufficient for corrugated boarding.
Depending on the way the garage roof is constructed, the vertical beams on which the horizontal ceiling bars are suspended from the top of the ridge can be made of weaker materials. For example, from a two-inch pipe or a 2x2 cm square. These elements work in tension, so the profile dimensions are determined mostly by the wall thickness so as not to burn through the material during welding.
You can choose any corrugated board, best of all the "C" brand, with a polymer coating.
Instructions on how to properly assemble a garage from corrugated sheets
The manufacture of a garage frame, the design of which is shown in the photo, is carried out in the following sequence:
- We dig a pit to a depth of at least 30 cm, in other words, on the bayonet of a shovel with a tail. Along the perimeter, we expose the formwork from a board with a height of at least 40 cm. In this case, the contour tape of the foundation with a width of 15 cm will rise 10-15 cm above the ground level. We cover the inner part of the foundation with plastic wrap and fill it with sand 5 cm thick. After that it will be possible to make a screed. We fill it with concrete, in places where the vertical supports will be installed, we embed it in concrete along a pair of anchor rods with a length of at least 7 cm;
- At the initial stage, you will need to install seven vertical posts along each longitudinal wall of the garage. Square plates with holes for anchoring studs to the foundation are welded to the heels of the struts. After aligning the supports vertically, we connect them with sheets of corrugated board. Next, we cut out and weld to the racks the upper transverse horizontal beams of the garage frame;
- The main element of the roof under the roof is made of corrugated board in the form of two rafters and a central vertical beam. They need to be cut and pattern welded on the ground as a finished assembly. The first is the assembly on the front pediment, the second on the back. Both assemblies under the roof must be carefully aligned with the axis of the garage frame and welded. The rest of the assemblies are also installed under the corrugated roof. The vertical roof pillars are welded last.
Important! In this construction of the garage, the first profile sheets ensure the rigidity of the walls until the end of welding work on the entire frame. It is impossible to remove corrugated board.
Sheathing the garage frame with corrugated sheets
The fastening of the corrugated board to the steel frame is carried out with self-tapping screws with compensating washers. At the same time, in order to exclude the appearance of gaps between the vertical sheets of cladding, the sheets are laid in a slate method - overlapping adjacent waves. If you want to strengthen the end connection of the sheets, it is recommended to coat the overlap surface of the corrugated board with adhesive mastic.
A layer of adhesive material between two metal surfaces dries for a rather long time, finally, such gluing of corrugated board will dry out only a few days after the installation work of the garage. After the mastic dries, the outer surface of the profiled sheets will turn into a tough and durable coating.
Interior decoration and insulation of the garage from corrugated sheets is carried out according to the standard scheme. A polyethylene film is attached to the inner surface of the corrugated board with polyethylene foam and a crate made of a wooden lath with a thickness of 4-5 cm is sewn. As a result, a small ventilation gap of 5-10 mm is formed between the corrugated sheet and the film, which ensures rolling and removal of condensate.
Further, foam insulation can be laid in the crate, it is more resistant, and is able to serve without loss of insulating qualities for at least 20 years. Mineral wool can absorb large amounts of moisture and lose its insulating qualities.
To lay the insulation on the garage ceiling, you will need to make a rough ceiling filing. You can use the remnants of corrugated sheets, but it is better to use a regular lining or rail. Next, foam sheets are glued to the filing made of a lath or corrugated board, after which the insulation layer is closed with OSB plates. To reduce shedding of the material, it is recommended to paint the ceiling covering with enamel or acrylic paint. It is also necessary to prime and paint the elements of the steel frame of the garage and to treat the attachment points of the corrugated board to the steel profile with silicone.
In order to exclude rusting of the material, experts recommend that the cutting lines of metal sheets be treated with aerosol paint used for laying and sealing the cuts of metal tiles.
In order for the garage floor surface to be flush with the strip foundation, the crushed stone must be covered with a reinforcing steel mesh and a concrete screed must be made. You can proceed to testing the strength of the floor no earlier than a month after the completion of the concrete work. During this time, electricity can be supplied to the room from the corrugated board and the foundation pavement can be made in order to avoid erosion of the supporting foundation tape.
The motorization of the population in our country has already reached a fairly high level, so the need for garages is also growing, which leads to an increase in their cost. Therefore, the construction of a garage from corrugated board is an excellent way out. This article will detail some of the nuances of this type of construction, the knowledge of which will help to cope with the construction of a garage without involving outside specialists.
For construction, you will also need some tool. Prepare in advance:
- A screwdriver or electric drill with this function;
- Plumb line, tape measure and building level (preferably laser or water);
- Welding inverter;
- Angle grinder (grinder);
- Scissors for metal;
- Shovel and bayonet shovels, scrap;
- Concrete mixer or container for mixing the solution (trough, bath, etc.);
- Sledgehammer.
The main material for the construction of the garage is corrugated board. In addition to him, you will need the following materials:
- Cement, sand, crushed stone and reinforcement for the base;
- Steel corner 40x40 mm or profile pipe 40x20 mm for the frame;
- Steel pipes with a diameter of 60 mm for the frame;
- Additional elements (windproof strips, drainage system);
- Self-tapping screws;
- Formwork boards;
- Consumable material (cutting wheels, nails, electrodes, wire, etc.).
Before buying all the necessary materials, you should first decide on the place where the car “house” will be located. For fire safety purposes, you should not build it close to residential buildings. It will also significantly reduce the amount of inhaled exhaust gases, especially during the warmer months.
Also, it is important to ensure the unhindered exit of the car, so there should be free space in front of the gate, but at the same time it should not be too large, otherwise in winter you will have to spend too much effort on clearing snow blockages.
The construction site itself should be relatively level in order to minimize the labor and cost of leveling it.
There are no strict urban planning norms SNiP concerning garages made of corrugated board, but a number of recommendations must still be followed. So, for example, the distance between the building and the neighbor's fence should be at least 1 m. This is necessary so that water from the roof of the garage does not fall on the neighbors' site. As for the "red line", it is not recommended to place the gate on the same level with it, since an indent of 5 meters must be observed if the passage is the main one, and 3 meters in the case when the passage is lateral.
Buying corrugated board should be given special attention. You will need corrugated board marked "C", which means "wall". The option with the lowest cost is products labeled C-8 (the second digit indicates the wave height, expressed in millimeters) and C-9.
However, this brand needs more frequent fastening, and is also quite noisy in windy weather, since its stiffness coefficient is relatively low. The optimal choice is S-20 corrugated board. Also, the corrugated board also differs in the thickness of the metal, for a garage, 0.5 mm is quite enough.
A step-by-step process for building a garage
The whole process is slightly different from the progress of work with SIP panels.
The construction process itself begins with the marking of the area.
Remember that any construction should begin with design, draw a drawing of the future garage, as well as its location on the master plan of the entire site. This will help you think through all the details of construction and prevent possible mistakes.
It should be guided by the fact that a garage designed for one passenger car must be at least 6 meters long and 4 meters wide. Marking is carried out using wooden stakes or other suitable objects that are stuck in the corners of the structure, and a string stretched between them marks the location of future walls.
Further actions depend on whether a full-fledged foundation will be built or whether the matter will be limited to concrete “cushions” under the frame supports. In the first case, it will be necessary to remove a layer of soil to a depth of 0.5 m, in the second - to dig square depressions about 50x50x50 cm in size in the corners of the garage, as well as in the middle of each side (except for the one where the gate will be located).
Garage drawings
Foundation device
For a garage from corrugated board, it has its own peculiarity, since in parallel with it, the installation of metal frame supports should also be carried out. As mentioned above, depressions of 50x50x50 cm should be dug under the supports at the corners of the structure. Further, steel pipes should be placed in them and hammered into them with a sledgehammer to a depth in accordance with the construction plan.
While driving the supports, you should control the verticality of their position using a level, since it will be quite difficult to align the pipe after the end of the immersion. After driving all the pillars between them, a trench 30 cm wide should be dug.If the soil on the site is loose, then formwork will be required. Then, by mixing cement with sand and gravel, a concrete solution is prepared and poured into the formwork.
Before this, the bottom of the trenches should be sprinkled with a layer of river sand 5-10 cm thick. The concrete solution should be poured in several passes, and in order to prevent the base from cracking over time, it is necessary to lay the reinforcement.
Inspection pit device
At the stage of foundation construction, an inspection pit is also made, if such is provided for by the plan. It must be positioned taking into account the size of the car.
As a rule, an inspection hole is dug to a depth of 1-1.2 m from the level of the future garage floor. The walls of the inspection pit must be reinforced with steel mesh and plastered. The floor must be covered with roofing material in three layers and concreted.
For the convenience of using the pit, steps can be built, which should also be concreted. The edges of the pit must be reinforced with a steel corner, and in the future it can be used as a cellar for storing supplies. However, if the water table is very high, then the construction of a viewing pit is not recommended.
Installation of the frame is the most critical stage of construction. It is necessary to start it only after the foundation has solidified, that is, not earlier than a week later. How to weld a garage frame? Let's tell you now!
Already installed supports must be connected with crossbars, in the role of which a profile pipe of square or rectangular cross-section (40x20 mm or 40x40 mm) should be used. The number of crossbars depends on the height of the structure. The strapping also depends on the size of the corrugated sheets.
Sometimes wooden blocks are used as crossbars. However, this is not very advisable, since wood is less durable compared to metal, besides, the volume of work increases, since it will still not work to fix the bars directly to the steel supports and you will have to weld metal plates to them and drill holes in them for self-tapping screws.
At the same stage, the entrance gates are assembled. The garage door must be solid and heavy to prevent theft of property. The same profile pipe acts as the basis, when calculating the dimensions of the sashes, it is advisable not only to take into account the dimensions of the car, but also the width of the corrugated sheets. For the gate, you will also need welded hinges, the size of which depends on the massiveness of the shutters. Hinges with a diameter of 30 mm are standard. If necessary, you can use three hinges per leaf. After finishing the welding work, the entire metal frame must be painted with protective enamel.
If all the previous stages of construction were carried out in accordance with the norms, then the assembly of the walls will not cause great difficulties even for very inexperienced craftsmen. It is necessary to fix the sheets in a vertical position, with an overlap with a pitch between self-tapping screws of 300 mm in the lower part of the wave.
Self-tapping screws must be placed strictly at right angles to reduce the likelihood of slippage, which can damage the upper protective layer and quickly develop corrosion. The joints between the sheets should be sealed.
For these purposes, it is necessary to lay a special waterproofing membrane on the previous one before fixing each subsequent sheet. This will prevent moisture, snow and cold air from entering the garage. Such a garage is not warm, but it perfectly protects the car and equipment from rain and sun. In order for the garage to have a positive temperature in winter, it is necessary that it be insulated. It is necessary to add insulation, for example, or basalt wool slabs.
Corrugated roof
The garage roof can be made in two versions: shed or gable. Or maybe even a flat roof. Depending on the option chosen, the rafters should be installed from the same profile pipe. The angle of inclination of the roof should ensure the timely descent of the snow mass, but at the same time harmoniously fit into the exterior of the garage.
After installing the rafter system, it is necessary to install the lathing, the frequency of which directly depends on the angle of the roof slope, if it is more than 15 degrees, then it may not be completely solid. If the slope is less than 15 degrees, then it is better to make the crate a continuous row in order to exclude the crushing of the roof by the snow mass.
The installation of the roof sheathing should be started by securing the planks and gutters. First of all, you need to attach hooks for the gutter system to the lower edge of the roof and lay the gutter itself directly on them.
Then, along the perimeter of the roof, it is necessary to install special windproof strips, which are a steel sheet bent at an angle, which prevents the penetration of atmospheric precipitation under the roof of the building.
It is worth considering this feature: on the lower edge of the roof, on which the gutter system is installed, the windbreak bar must be attached so that its end sinks into the gutter.
The sheets of the corrugated board themselves should be placed in waves in parallel with the axis of the garage, this is necessary to ensure a good flow of water and snow melt. On top of the side windproof strip, you need to put a sheet of corrugated board and align it along the edge of the roof, then attach it together with the strip to the crate. In the same way, it is necessary to continue attaching the sheets to the opposite end.
Since the corrugated board is the basis of the garage, it is worthwhile to dwell on the nuances of its fastening in more detail. During the installation of the side walls, the first sheet is placed in such a way that it fits snugly against the vertical rack with the lower edge of the wave, otherwise the sharp edge can cause a lot of trouble in the future.
The fastening of the corrugated board is carried out using standard self-tapping screws with a hexagonal head and a rubber seal, using an electric drill or a screwdriver. First, one of the upper corners should be fastened, then the sheet needs to be leveled with a level and fasteners should be made over the entire area, leaving the outer three waves unsecured. The next sheet must be imposed on the previous one in one wave, aligning both on top, fasten the sheets in several places and continue fastening in the same way as the first. To achieve a better fit, it is better to move the sheets to the center of the attachment by 4-5 mm.
With the advent of new materials, motorists are building capital garages less and less, preferring to build a garage from corrugated board with their own hands. Its advantages are obvious: a lightweight and practical design, which does not require capital investments, is erected quickly and without the involvement of special equipment. In addition, a garage made of corrugated board can be easily insulated, turning it into a winter one, and, if necessary, expanding and making a workshop in it.
Choosing a place to build a garage
For the garage, you need to choose a place as close as possible to the exit from the site so that in winter you do not have to clear a large area of snow. Usually garage doors are located in line with the fence, at some distance from the house, so that exhaust gases and odors do not interfere with the tenants. The plot for the construction of the garage should be as flat as possible, and the entrance to it should be free so that you can freely leave and turn around.
The choice of material for the construction of a garage from corrugated board
For a garage, professional flooring of the C or PS brand is required, the letter “C” in the brand means “wall”. Figures - the height of the corrugated board wave in millimeters. Thus, S-20 corrugated board is a profiled sheet for the construction of wall structures with a wave height of 20 mm. Keep in mind that the higher the wave height, the greater the rigidity of the sheet and the structure as a whole, but the higher the price of the material. Profiled sheeting of grades S-8 and S-10 is the cheapest, but its use will require more frequent fastening of sheets to the frame, which will reduce the tightness of the structure. In addition, thin sheets will "walk" under the influence of the wind, emitting a very peculiar sound, therefore, in areas with strong winds, it is better to take corrugated board with a higher wave height. The thickness of the corrugated board usually ranges from 0.4 to 1 mm; for a garage, 0.5 mm of thickness is quite enough.
In addition to corrugated board you will need:
- Concrete and foundation reinforcement;
- Metal pipes, corner or wooden bars for the frame;
- Metal corner or pipes for the gate;
- Self-tapping screws for metal.
Tool for building a garage from corrugated board:
- A grinder with a cutting wheel for metal - metal structures for the frame are cut with it;
- Welding machine for welding the frame;
- Jigsaw and metal shears for cutting corrugated board;
- Screwdriver.
Stages of construction of a garage and terms of their implementation
- Pouring the foundation. A concrete monolithic foundation in the form of a slab will simultaneously serve as a garage floor. The foundation can be erected over the weekend, but it will take at least 3 weeks for the concrete to fully mature if it is poured.
- Erection of the frame. The frame is usually made of rolled metal: pipes, angle bars, channel bars. The racks, to which the wall and ceiling ceilings will be attached, are installed during the construction of the foundation. The rest of the frame structures are welded together using a welding machine. The deadline is one to two days.
- Fastening of corrugated board. Profiled metal sheets are cut with a jigsaw to size, after which they are attached to the walls with self-tapping screws for metal with a rubber gasket. It is possible to cope with this work in one day by the forces of three or four people.
- Gate installation. The gate frame is made of a metal corner by welding, after which they are sheathed with corrugated board. The time required to make the gate is one to two days.
Pouring the foundation
The foundation is poured first, while the concrete dries, all other work is performed.
- They mark a site for a garage and cut off the soil from it to a depth of about half a meter. Sand backfill is carried out, the sand is compacted and spilled with water.
- Wells are made for the frame racks, they will additionally serve as foundation piles, which will improve its resistance to seasonal ground movements. Wells are made of such a size that the racks enter them with a certain margin. Depth - from 0.5 meters.
- Formwork is erected around the perimeter of boards or wooden panels. Reinforcement bars with a diameter of 8-12 mm are laid at a distance of 15-20 cm along and across the axis of the garage. The rods are tied together with a wire. Frame racks are installed in the prepared wells, having previously treated their underground part with bitumen mastic. Racks are leveled vertically and reinforced with struts.
- The formwork is poured with 300 grade concrete, pierced with a metal bar to remove air bubbles. The surface is leveled with a rule.
- The concrete is left to mature for 3-4 weeks.
Garage and gate frame
While the concrete is gaining strength, you can make a garage frame. It is made from a metal corner, by welding the corner to the posts, or wooden bars. To fasten the bars, metal plates are used, which are attached to the posts by welding.
- The material is cut to the required length in accordance with a previously prepared drawing.
- Horizontal metal beams are welded to the racks on three sides of the garage. If the frame is made of a bar, "ears" are welded to the posts for fastening wooden beams, after which the bars are fastened with self-tapping screws.
- The roof is usually made single-pitched with a slope towards the rear wall of the garage. To complete its frame, metal or wooden beams are attached to opposite racks, and on them - a crate made of non-planed boards. In regions with a significant snow load, the sheathing should be almost solid, as a small roof slope angle will encourage snow accumulation.
- The gate frame is boiled from a metal corner. A corner is cut to the size of the gate at an angle of 45 degrees, welded, after which additional stiffeners are welded onto the frame - metal corners. At the place of installation of the lock or bolts, metal plates are welded.
- The hinges are welded to the front pillars, the gate frame is applied and the position of the mating loops is marked. If the gate is made non-removable, then the hinges are placed oppositely so that it is impossible to remove them, and they are welded in place.
Fastening corrugated board
You can start covering the garage after the concrete has fully matured - this will exclude the movement of the frame and the deformation of the profiled sheets. The corrugated board is fastened vertically - this way the best water flow is ensured. The sheets are overlapped by one wave, this must be taken into account when calculating the material. It is more convenient to order corrugated board cut into sheets of the required size - this will reduce labor intensity and increase their durability, since the sections made in the factory will be covered with a zinc layer and polymer paint.
- Begin the cladding from the walls of the garage. The first sheet is positioned so that it fits snugly against the rack with the lower edge of the wave - otherwise, you can cut yourself on its sharp edges. Fasten the sheet on self-tapping screws with a hex head and a rubber gasket using a screwdriver. First, the upper corner is fixed, then the sheet is leveled and fastened over its entire area, except for the junction with the next sheet.
- The next sheet is applied to the previous one in one wave, both sheets are fastened at several points and continue to be fastened. This is how the sheathing of all the walls is performed. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that all vertical edges of the sheets in the corners fit snugly against the racks.
- The roof sheathing begins with the fastening of the gutter and planks. First, the gutter hooks are fixed on the lower edge of the roof and the gutter itself is laid on them. Then, wind strips are attached along the perimeter of the roof - a sheet of iron bent by an angle, designed to prevent precipitation from falling under the roof. They are attached to the crate with 2 temporary nails. At the lower edge of the roof, where the gutter is installed, the wind bar must be fixed so that its lower edge descends into the gutter bed.
- Sheets of corrugated board are attached to the roof in waves parallel to the axis of the garage, so as to ensure a good drainage of water. On top of the side wind bar, a sheet of corrugated board is applied and aligned along the edge of the roof, after which it and the wind bar are fastened to the crate with self-tapping screws. Continue fastening the sheets to the opposite edge of the garage.
This technology allows you to build a small garage for temporary car storage. You can read about the construction of a more capital garage from a profiled sheet with a viewing hole and insulated walls in the article "".
There are two opposing opinions regarding the reliability of a metal profile garage. Some car owners see it as a pre-fabricated and aesthetically attractive building. Others prefer brick and concrete garages, regarding the profiled sheet as an exclusively facing material.
Both points of view are well founded. To make a decision to build a garage from a metal profile, first of all, you need to make sure that the choice of this material is rational. Then study the step-by-step instructions for building this structure with your own hands.
The metal profile is chosen primarily for its ease of use.
The metal profile (corrugated board, profiled sheet, corrugated sheet) is a light and sufficiently flexible material that is made of thin sheet steel. Metal sheets are coated on both sides with a layer of zinc, thereby providing protection against the development of corrosion. An aesthetically pleasing look is given with the help of polymers.
The material has informative marking informing about its purpose and main technical characteristics:
- "N" - load-bearing profiled sheet, used for installation of roofs and facing of load-bearing structures;
- "NS" - non-material-wall, universal, suitable for fencing;
- "C" - wall;
- R - roofing;
- A - the protective coating is applied only to the outer, front side of the canvas;
- B - protection is applied to the back.
The metal profile is distinguished by several parameters that determine the technical characteristics of a particular material:
- the thickness of the web and, accordingly, its stiffness: from 0.1 to 2 mm;
- height and width of the wave: 1-114 mm;
- waveform;
- the degree of corrosion protection, determined by the type of external coating.
In accordance with the last parameter, several types of protection for steel sheets are distinguished.
- Galvanizing is the most short-lived layer.
- Aluminum-zinc - slightly more reliable than the previous one.
- Polyester - decorative, short-lived, susceptible to flaking.
- Polyvinyl fluoride. Reliable, durable, UV protected, durable.
- Pural. It is close in properties and characteristics to polyvinyl fluoride.
The canvases are interconnected by the overlap method for 1-2 waves. For the metal profile, special fasteners are produced: steel screws with a press washer and a head, painted in the same colors as the professional sheet.
Pros and cons of corrugated board
Positive properties:
- fire resistance and lack of deformation under the influence of high temperatures;
- non-hygroscopicity;
- the presence of stiffening ribs, providing strength and resistance to mechanical stress;
- a wide range of color schemes for canvases;
- light weight compared to other popular building and finishing materials;
- rather long service life - up to 20 years;
- environmental Safety;
- relatively low price.
Disadvantages:
- the ends of the metal sheets are not protected by an anti-corrosion compound;
- the outer coating is quite easily damaged, the places of scratches and chips rust over time;
- under the influence of sunlight, it loses its color saturation and after 3-4 years of operation it becomes more faded, fading with spots is possible;
- heats up under the sun and transfers heat to nearby structural elements.
Which metal profile to choose for the construction of a garage
When choosing a metal profile for a garage, first of all look at the depth
When building a garage, a metal profile will be required for three main structural elements:
- walls;
- roofs;
- gates and wickets.
The thickness of the canvases can vary. For the construction of the roof, the material of the appropriate marking is recommended, in which the letter R is present. This is a durable and expensive professional sheet, which, in order to reduce the cost of construction, can be replaced with a metal profile "NS".
Note! When choosing a corrugated board for building a garage, it is not the thickness of the sheet that is important, but the depth of the profile. It is she who gives the sheet its rigidity. The optimal choice is profiled sheet PS-15 and S-15 with a thickness of 0.7 mm and a wave depth of 15 cm.
In order to minimize the likelihood of theft of the garage, they order the production of canvases, the length of which corresponds to the length of the future building, and lay them horizontally one above the other with an overlap of 1-2 waves. It is advisable to seal horizontal joints with a moisture-resistant silicone sealant. This will prevent moisture from leaking into the gaps between the corrugated sheets.
But long horizontal canvases are rarely used, since the delivery of this material requires the order of expensive long-length machines. Most often, profiled sheet garages are erected from vertically installed canvases corresponding to the height of the building. This has its own "plus": moisture slides along the edges of the metal profile and does not flow onto the inner walls.
It is also necessary to take care that the light metal structure successfully withstands gusts of wind. For this purpose, the walls are fixed to the ground or concrete with metal brackets or studs.
Drafting and costing
On average, it takes 1.5-2 months to build a garage from a metal profile with your own hands.... When choosing a project, you can focus on the standard sizes of factory products:
- 2.13x4 m;
- 2.9x4.7 m;
- 3.2x5.2 m;
- 3.2x5.8 m.
Typical projects of garages from corrugated board
Garage with a gable roof and lifting gates
Garage for two cars with a gable roof, lifting gates and a wicket in the form of an entrance door
Drawing up a drawing
Drawing of the future garage in different projections
An estimate for construction is carried out on the basis of a preliminary drawing, on which all dimensions and distances must be indicated.
You can use a ruler and scaling, or draw a freehand sketch of the future structure.
The drawing can be done manually, but for greater accuracy it is better to use one of the specialized programs.
The most accurate and detailed drawing is made using specialized programs such as AutoCAD, nanoCAD, Compass, Solitworks, 3-D MAX.
A drawing of a garage from a profiled sheet, made using a special program
If the garage is installed on a foundation, a drawing of a section or base unit is made.
Garage foundation drawing
Budgeting
The estimate for the construction of a garage should include:
- list and scope of work;
- quantity and cost of materials;
- fare;
- overheads;
- the total cost of work and materials.
The structure is a frame made of profiled pipes, sheathed with corrugated sheets. For the device of the frame, pipes are used:
- 60x40 mm;
- 60x20 mm;
- 40x20 mm;
- 20x20 mm.
The choice of section depends on the size of the building. The larger it is, the larger the cross-section of the pipes is chosen. The standard distance between the vertical posts is 100-120 cm. Or, pipes of a smaller cross-section are used and at the same time the distance between the frame posts is reduced to 50-60 cm.
An example of an estimate for the construction of a garage 4.5x3.5 m
The total weight of the structure depends on the weight of each material and is at least 800 kg.
- 1 m 2 of metal 1 mm thick weighs 7.8 kg;
- 1 m2 of metal with a thickness of 2 mm - about 17 kg;
- 1 running meter of profile pipe 20x20 mm - 1.225 kg;
- pipes 20x40 mm - 1.4-1.6 kg;
- pipes 60x20 mm with a wall thickness of 2 mm - 3.020 kg;
- pipes 60x40 with a wall thickness of 2 mm - 3.1 kg.
Required materials and tools
For the self-made construction of a garage from a metal profile, you will need tools:
- level;
- concrete mixer (if the project provides for a concrete foundation);
- grinder and discs for metal with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm;
- scissors for metal;
- screwdriver;
- drill;
- roulette;
- bubble level at least 80 cm long;
- shovels shovel and bayonet;
- plumb line;
- vibrating plate or device for compacting the soil (for example, a metal barrel, 1/3 filled with stones).
Of the materials you will need:
- shaped pipes;
- professional sheet;
- self-tapping screws;
- reinforcement for strengthening the foundation;
- sand;
- fine (for filling) or medium (for foundation) gravel;
- hinges for hanging gates and wickets;
- locks and bolts.
Foundation preparation
A massive foundation for a garage from a metal profile is not needed
A garage made of corrugated board is a lightweight construction that does not require a strong foundation. In most cases, a shallow tape or slab is sufficient. A columnar foundation is also suitable, which is optimal for heaving soils.
Since the floor in the garage must be concreted, the best choice would be a USHP (insulated Swedish plate), the dimensions of which are 20-40 cm larger (on all sides) than the dimensions of the garage. Thus, at the same time they get a floor, a blind area and facilitate the task of concreting access roads.
Important! UWB is a shallow foundation, so you need to think about a way to drain ground and surface waters in advance.
The USP is at the same time a “floating” foundation, as it is located on a sandy “cushion” that compensates for ground movements. This is the optimal solution for areas with high groundwater levels and deep (more than 80 cm) freezing in winter.
UWB advantages:
- installation on any type of soil;
- less, in comparison with a conventional slab foundation, concrete consumption;
- thermal insulation to prevent freezing of the garage floor;
- the slab is at the same time a floor, which eliminates the time and financial costs for its construction;
- engineering communications can be laid in the slab;
- quick installation (on average, it takes no more than 7 days to erect 100 m 2 of UWB).
Important! UWB can be erected only on flat areas, so you will have to align the existing one in one way or another.
A full-fledged calculation of the bearing capacity of the USHP is impossible, since in the Russian SNiP and GOST there is no such thing as "insulated Swedish plate". As a basis, you can take the characteristics of a standard concrete, an improved version of which is the USP.
Necessary materials:
- foam plastic 5-10 cm thick;
- steel reinforcement with a section of 10 mm;
- knitting wire;
- geotextile;
- roofing material;
- lumber for the construction of formwork;
- sand (only quarry, river unsuitable);
- crushed stone of the middle fraction (20x40 mm);
- Portland cement grade not lower than M400.
Stages of USB construction
Step 1. Leveling the construction site.
Step 2. Markup. With the help of a rope and pegs, the dimensions of the future slab are determined.
Step 3. Excavation of soil to a depth of 30-40 cm within the markings. The best way is to use an excavator.
Step 4. Leveling the bottom and walls of the pit.
Step 5. Compaction of soil at the bottom and walls of the pit.
Step 6. Forming a sand cushion 10-15 cm thick.
Step 7. Compaction of the sand layer. The task will be facilitated by pouring sand with water from a hose.
Step 8. Laying geotextile sheets with an overlap of 30-40 cm so that the edges of the sheets extend beyond the markings by 20-30 cm.
Step 9. Backfilling of a gravel (or crushed stone) layer 10-15 cm high.
Step 10. Compaction of gravel.
Step 11. Wrap the edges of the geotextile onto the gravel layer.
Step 12. If necessary, lay engineering communications.
Step 13. Along the perimeter of the slab, vertically install expanded polystyrene slabs with a height of 20-25 cm. Strengthen the structure with boards and jibs.
Step 14. Lay the foam slabs on the gravel.
Step 15. Roofing material is laid with an overlap of canvases by 10-15 cm.
Step 16. Formwork is built around the perimeter of the slab.
Step 17. Inside the formwork, a reinforcing frame is assembled from reinforcement and tying wire.
Step 18. Concrete is poured.
If the foundation is being erected on hot days, it is necessary to water it with water every 2-3 hours. On relatively warm days - every 10-12 hours.
Advice! The next day after pouring the foundation, the concrete can be covered with a layer of sand or sawdust. They will retain moisture and the interval between watering can be increased by 1-1.5 times.
Frame installation
We proceed to the process of installing the frame
The frame can be assembled in parts away from the foundation or, if the UWB is flooded, directly on it.
Step 1. Installation of the starting profile (corner channel), with the help of which the perimeter of the garage (its lower base) is formed.
Step 2. Weld on the corner posts.
Step 3. The upper strapping is formed from the channel.
Step 4. Install intermediate posts from the profile pipe. The joints of pipes and channel can be bolted rather than welded.
Step 5. Fix the pipes for the roof device, form its slope.
Plating technology description
If you coped with the installation of the first sheet - consider, half the battle is done.
In performing frame cladding, the most important thing is to correctly install the first sheet of the metal profile... It should be located at one of the corner posts. Carefully check the position of the sheet vertically and horizontally. Use a plumb line, level, or level.
The second sheet is laid with an overlap in 1 wave and fastened with special self-tapping screws for corrugated board. In this way, all the walls of the garage are sheathed except for the one in which the wicket and gates are provided. Further, in the same way, the corrugated board is sewn up to the roof of the building.
Advice! Before screwing in the self-tapping screw, drill a hole of the appropriate diameter.
Care and maintenance of a metal profile garage
In order for the garage to last as long as possible and at the same time retain its aesthetic appeal, a number of recommendations for caring for a metal profile structure are followed.
- Profiled sheet is a rather "soft" material, on which dents will inevitably remain from strong blows. You need to be aware of this and avoid mechanical stress on the walls and roof.
- Regardless of the type of cladding, it is easily damaged by sharp objects. Subsequently, rust appears in these places. Therefore, all chips and scratches must be immediately covered with anti-corrosion compounds and painted in the color of the metal profile.
- To create a more comfortable stop, the inner walls of the garage are sheathed with OSB and insulated.
A garage from a metal profile can be designed and built independently. This will help step-by-step installation instructions and recommendations for the selection of materials.
Making a garage out of corrugated board is the best solution for storing a car. The advent of modern building materials and technologies has made it much easier for car owners to solve the problem with garages. It is possible to build such a structure with your own hands within just a few days, to do the work yourself and with high quality. To do this, you do not need to be a professional builder, it is enough to have the initial skills in performing the simplest construction and welding works.
Advantages and disadvantages
Many owners do not trust professional sheets, they believe that a garage made of galvanized corrugated board is significantly inferior to traditional masonry materials in terms of performance. In order to have an objective idea, you should compare the performance of a garage made of profiled sheet and brick or blocks.
- Estimated cost. If we take into account the price of bricks, cement-sand mortar for masonry, the cost of exterior decoration and labor costs, then the estimated cost of the garage of their corrugated board is at least two times lower. And further. A garage made of corrugated board can be made independently, brickwork requires assistants.
- Construction time. A garage made of corrugated board can be made with your own hands in a few days, for a brick or block one you will need at least two weeks. Another factor. Metal structures can be built without pouring foundations, and this further reduces the construction time.
- Operating time. If all the recommendations are followed, the metal garage has been in operation for at least thirty years. In the future, if necessary, minor cosmetic repairs are carried out, and the structure can be used for the same time. Brick buildings last longer, but a garage is not a building that has to be used for hundreds of years.
- Mobility. A garage made of profiled sheets is disassembled and moved to a new location, while the vast majority of materials can be reused without prior preparation. The construction of a garage from masonry materials does not allow this possibility.
- Heat saving indicators. According to this parameter, brick garages are significantly inferior to metal ones. It is enough to insulate the structure with foam or mineral wool only five centimeters thick in order to have the same heat saving rates as a brick wall 60 cm thick, and this is a masonry thickness of two bricks. Such walls are erected on multi-storey buildings.
As for the disadvantages of garages made of metal structures, only low rates of anti-vandal protection can be attributed to them. But this is all relative. Those who want to steal a car do not break brick walls, but open the gate. And they have exactly the same protection as metal ones.
What are the sizes, where to place on the site
- Width. Leave approximately 0.7–0.8 m of free space on each side of the vehicle. This will ensure that the doors open, you can get around the car without any problems.
- Length. When building a garage from corrugated board, the distance from the hood and trunk to the walls must be left at least one meter.
- Height. It is not recommended to make the garage ceiling higher than 2.5 meters.
These are the approximate dimensions of the simplest garage option. If you plan to build a garage from corrugated board with a place to rest or a small workshop, then the garage from corrugated board needs to be increased.
It is best to locate the garage on a hill, this will exclude flooding in the autumn-spring period of heavy rains and melting snow. Pay attention to the convenience of the entrance, the proximity of utilities, electrical lines. But for all cases, general fire safety requirements apply - the garage cannot be closer than three meters to residential buildings.
One of the advantages of corrugated garages is their low specific weight. The garage foundation made of corrugated board is the cheapest and simplest. What types of structures can you choose?
| Garage foundation type | Description and specifications |
| Columnar | One of the simplest options. Concrete pillars with a depth of about 50 cm are poured around the perimeter of the garage; to eliminate the swelling of the earth, the pillars are poured onto a sand cushion. Pillars are also made along the walls of the structure at a distance of about 1.5–2.0 m. |
| Bored | A kind of columnar foundations. The difference is that holes are not dug under the filling, but holes are drilled. |
| Pile screw | A modern but expensive type of foundations. Pile foundations are not poured with concrete, this allows you to continue construction immediately after their installation, and not waste at least two weeks for concrete ripening. Another advantage is that such foundations can be made even on highly waterlogged or waterlogged household plots. |
| Shallow belt | Quite an expensive and difficult option, it requires special construction knowledge. |
| Monolithic | The advantage - the foundation also serves as a floor for the garage. During the pouring of concrete, a reinforcing belt must be made. |
| Made | Ready-made reinforced concrete beams are laid on the sand cushion. The best option for a metal garage, the complete absence of concrete work can significantly reduce the construction time. |
Consider individual factors when choosing a foundation. For the first three types of foundations (columnar, bored and screw), you will have to do a strapping in the future to close the gap between the ground level and the garage frame. If you use the third type (prefabricated), then the floor in the garage is equipped after the installation of the structure. The garage floor can be concrete, metal or wood.
What to make the frame from
The frame can be made of wooden beams at least 100 × 100 mm in size for vertical supports and 50 × 100 mm for horizontal elements and rafter systems. The second version of the frame is made of rolled metal. Pipes of square or circular cross-section, channels, I-beams, elbows, etc. are used. The dimensions of the rental should take into account the dimensions of the garage and the maximum wind and snow loads.
Garage roof views
For a garage, two types of roof are used: inclined flat or gable. The first is cheaper, easier to install a profiled sheet, it is done a little faster. Disadvantage - a flat shed roof for a garage has load limitations. They are not recommended for use in climatic zones with high snow depth values. Gable ones hold significant loads and are considered universal structures, much more often a garage made of corrugated board is made with a gable roof.
Important. If it is supposed to put a warm garage, then it is necessary to provide for roof insulation. It is better to use polystyrene as insulation - it is not afraid of moisture, it is easy to work with it. In addition, the cost of foam is much cheaper than mineral wool. Currently, there are types of foam that do not support open combustion - no need to be afraid of fire.
Mineral wool reacts extremely negatively to an increase in humidity. In order for the insulation to be effective, the mineral wool needs to be protected from both sides with special membranes, which complicates the installation of the corrugated board. Their task is to allow moisture to evaporate from the mineral wool and to protect it from the wind. Together with the wind, a large amount of heat leaves, the effectiveness of insulation deteriorates sharply.
Choosing a professional sheet for a garage
Decking is a new building material for the construction of lightweight inexpensive structures. Depending on the technical parameters, it has several types, the width of the corrugated sheet is standard.
| Profiled sheet type | Marking and specifications |
| Roofing | The most durable corrugated board in terms of bending. Has increased sheet thickness and profile height. It is denoted by H (carrier). |
| Universal | According to the technical parameters, the metal profile sheets occupy an average position, the thickness and height of the profile are less than that of the roofing one. Can be used for both roofing and wall cladding. It is designated by the letters НС. |
| Stenovoi | The lightest profiled sheet, has a low bending resistance. Manufacturers recommend such corrugated board to be used only for internal or external cladding of vertical surfaces. It is designated by the letter C. |
When choosing a specific sheet, you need to pay attention to the manufacturer, thickness, cost and size of the corrugated board. The duration of operation of any type of corrugated board largely depends on the conscientiousness of the manufacturer. If during manufacturing all technological standards were observed, the thickness of the zinc layer and the upper protective coating meets the standardized parameters, the paints are of high quality and wear-resistant, they are not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, then the service life will be at least thirty years.
Practical advice. The cost of sheets is 50% dependent on their thickness. But there is no need to buy the most expensive roofing profiled sheet for the roof. You can buy a thinner and cheaper one, and to increase stability, reduce the pitch of the crate. Due to this, the estimated cost of the building will significantly decrease with the same indicators of the bearing capacity of the roof.
One more remark. Take into account the parameters of the sheets along the length and tire during the selection of sizes, the construction of garage walls from corrugated board will be almost waste-free. When designing, it is important to remember about the overlap of the sheets, in most cases it is enough for one wave to overlap. The height and width of the waves are indicated on the marking, if they are not there, it is recommended to measure them with a tape measure.
Step-by-step instructions for building a garage
For example, the simplest project for the construction of a garage from a metal profile will be taken. Size 8 × 4.3 × 2.5 m pipes 50 × 25 mm, 36 m pipes 60 × 30 mm. For wall cladding, you need 25 sheets of metal profile with a standard length of 2.5 m, to cover the roof, you need 16 sheets of metal profile 2 m long. 50 mm.
To increase the stability of loaded corners and reinforce the frame, corners of 100 × 100 mm and structural reinforcement of a periodic profile of Ø 8–10 mm are needed. Profiled sheets are fixed with special self-tapping screws with rubber seals; the entire garage requires self-tapping screws for a metal profile of at least six boxes of 250 pcs. in each. Self-tapping screws for the profiled sheet must have a length of at least three centimeters. The metal frame is protected from corrosion by paint (about 2 kg is needed), for welding you will need two packs of electrodes Ø 2 mm. The foundation is made of ready-made reinforced concrete beams 100 × 100 mm, they require 42 m.
Foundation construction and strapping of the lower frame belt
Step 1. Level the area under the garage, make a sand bed on it with a thickness of ≥ ten centimeters. The sand bed will perform two tasks: to compensate for the swelling forces during freezing / thawing of the soil and serve as a natural elevation for the drainage of melt and rainwater.
Step 2. Level and compact the sand. You need to level it up, you can use a modern laser device or a traditional water one. Otherwise, the frame for the garage made of corrugated board may skew.
Step 3. Make the layout of the garage. In order for the corners to be right, use a simple formula: the square of the hypotenuse is equal to the sum of the squares of the legs. Accordingly, if you have one leg three meters, the second four meters, then the length of the hypotenuse should be five meters. On one side of the garage, mark three meters, prepare a five meter long rope, attach it to the end of the mark, and use the hypotenuse as the hypotenuse to find the exact location of the other side of the four meters long garage. Everything is simple and very accurate.
Step 3. Align the concrete beams along the markings. Align their position, they will have a frame for a garage made of corrugated board. Add or remove sand if necessary. To increase the strength of the structure, reinforced concrete beams must be fastened together in the corners with metal squares and dowels. Check the position of the foundation, imagine how the sheets of corrugated board are located in the frame. Everything is normal - you can start making the frame.
Frame fabrication
This is a very important stage of work, you need to be attentive to it.
Step 1. Strictly lay the bottom chord of the frame made of square pipes 60 × 60 mm on the concrete beams. Weld the corners, drive in anchors from the reinforcement on both sides. To do this, you first need to drill holes in the concrete, weld the anchor to the pipes. Check the correct spatial position of the structure. At this stage, you can still fix the mistakes, then it will be too late.
Step 2. Cut the blanks of the vertical uprights and horizontal bridges, remove the burrs. If the marking is done correctly, then the parts will have the same length, which greatly facilitates and simplifies the process of assembling the frame.
Practical advice. Welding the garage frame is easier in sections. Do not weld each vertical post separately to the lower chord, but install ready-made sections with horizontal jumpers.
Step 3. Install the front and rear garage sections with door openings. Reinforce the structures with braces, even if there is a small size of the garage, they can be made from any rental. It is not necessary to buy a new one, you can use a used one, it will be much cheaper.
Step 4. Make the top harness. Work should be carried out at a level, do not allow distortions.
At this point, the first stage of welding the frame is completed, you can manufacture and install roof elements.
Installation of the rafter system
The truss for the gable roof of the garage is welded on the ground on a flat area. Make a din template, check the correctness of the design. If everything is correct, then the rest of the roof elements can be welded using this template. Such a garage will require 6 farms. The angle of inclination of the gable roof of the garage is at least 20 °, but a specific decision is made taking into account the climatic zone of the location of the garage.
Step 1. Weld on the two end trusses, check their position. A gable garage roof made of corrugated board is mounted on them.
Step 2. Pull the rope along the ridge and weld all the remaining trusses along it, if necessary, the elements can be slightly corrected. It is necessary to ensure that the skate is located strictly along the rope, and all the lower ends of the trusses lie on the same line.
Step 3. Weld the roof attachment corners to the trusses. The distance between the battens is selected depending on the thickness of the sheets. If thin wall sheets are used for the roof, then the distance between the crate is no more than 50 cm, otherwise the connection of two corrugated sheets under the snow may bend. Galvanized profile lathing is an excellent option, but not available to everyone.
Don't rush, welds are difficult to fix. After the frame is completely welded, it is necessary to remove all metal drips and rust with a cylindrical grinder, then the frame is painted to protect the surfaces from corrosion. If the paint is based on solvents, then you can continue working the next day. You can make a frame from a galvanized profile, but this is very expensive.
The procedure for attaching sheathing and roofing sheets
The installation of the profiled sheet begins with the roof covering. The sheets should be screwed in even rows, the bottom row is laid first. The overlap of the sheets is about 10 cm. Lay the first row very carefully, then it is impossible to correct the mistakes. If there are problems, then the metal profile will have to be completely dismantled and start all over again. At the final stage, the ridge is attached to the corrugated board. In order to exclude the blowing of snow, special rubber seals can be installed between the ridge and the roof; they are sold together with additional roof elements.
After the roof is made, you can begin to sheathe the walls of the garage. Sheathing is also done in rows, work starts from the bottom row. At the last stage, the pediments are sewn up. At the bottom along the perimeter of the garage, metal drips are installed on concrete blocks.
Fastening garage doors
The gates are quite heavy, they need to be hung on strong hinges. All work is carried out on a level, both halves of the gate must be tightly adjacent to each other. This will help get rid of the cracks in the garage from the metal profile. Weld the hinges carefully. Before welding, install the gate in place, fix it in the desired position using various supports, and only then mark the places where the hinges will be welded. Fasten the corrugated sheets to the gate.
Important. Do not forget to weld the pad to the gate frame for installing the lock, if it will be internal. For external locks, such a platform is not required.
Before installing the gate, the corrugated board from the front must be dismantled. Reverse sheets are installed at the end of work with the gate. At the end, an ebb should be installed above the gate, otherwise water from the gable trim will get into the garage.
Insulation of the garage
For the insulation of metal structures, foam or mineral wool insulation is used. What to choose?
- Mineral wool. It has already been mentioned that this material is very afraid of moisture, wet wool conducts heat perfectly, the insulation efficiency is almost zero, the roofing profiled sheet is cold. There is another problem with cotton wool. This is a heavy material; you need to fix it with special metal dowels to a solid surface. In the garage, OSB boards are used for interior cladding, but they cannot hold such loads - the small thickness does not allow. If the pressed cotton wool is not fixed firmly, then over time it will certainly shrink, and this also negatively affects the heat saving indicators. Conclusion - it is strongly not recommended to use mineral wool for insulating garages from a metal profile.
- Styrofoam. In all respects, it is much better for garages than mineral wool; it can be used to insulate a garage from corrugated board. But it also has a drawback - for unknown reasons, rodents like foam. After a few years, they can turn hard sheets into dust, all costs will be in vain. How to fix the foam on the corrugated board? No way.
One more remark. An insulated garage will only be warm if it is constantly heated. At today's energy prices, this is very expensive. In addition, old cars needed warm garages. They started up very badly in sub-zero temperatures. Modern engines run well at all temperatures. Conclusion - experienced builders and drivers categorically do not recommend insulating garages. That's all the practical advice on how to make a garage out of corrugated board with your own hands.
